Help Needed

[tt321]

I need suggestions on some things. You don't need to answer each point but anything could help.

1) I have a tamiya stock mechanical speed controller and I am wondering if they have a better heat sink for the resister. I know they are supposed to get really hot but I think it would just be better if it was cooler. (Don't tell me to go and buy an electronic speed controller because I don't want one or need one)

2) I also need some really strong double-sided tape because the tape that I put on always ends up coming off and my electronics are all over my car, rubbing against my shaft and falling out. Any suggestions? (I don't want to glue them down)

3) I have a few 1500 Ni-Cd battery pack and a 15 min. timed charger. Am I supposed to charge them twice or just once? (I don't want any better batteries or chargers so just work with what I have)

(sorry about all the restrictions but I don't need people telling me to forget that and go buy this)

4) (Just one question out of curiosity) The stock Tamiya 540 motor and the Tamiya sport tuned motor, what are they equivalent to in "turns"?


Thanks alot, TT321

[dalejrfan8]

Not to be rude or anything, but why wouldnt you want an esc. They are smaller, more effecient, and are alot lighter.

I would get some servo tape. It holds really good and cleans up really easy.

For your batts. thats hard to tell since you dont have a peak charger. Just keep charging them until they start to get warm.

[tt321]

Thanks for the help. I will go try that tape.

The reason that I don't want an esc is because then I can't use a reciever pack. The pack lets me run my car so much longer than my friend who has an esc. For 1.5 of his battery packs will equal 1 of mine, so I feel I am fine without one.

[SteveK]

That doesn't add up: Are they the same packs? The same motors? An ESC is MUCH more efficient than a mechanical speed control.

[Grizzbob]

Right, a decent ESC is MANY times more efficient than ANY mechanical resistor-type speed control, which is why ESC's run so much cooler(that heat on the resistor type ones is the result of energy being wasted by the high electrical resistance of it, the more resistance, the more heat). And about running with a receiver pack, yes, you CAN use one with an ESC, you simply plug it directly into the receiver, just like you do now(& while it should help with runtime, it won't make THAT big a difference, I suspect something else is accounting for the runtime difference between you & your friend). Now, about the charger situation, honestly, there's NO way to tell exactly how long it should need to fully charge a pack, as each pack will be a bit different(& higher-capacity ones will take QUITE a bit longer), that's why peak-detecting chargers are so popular now, you don't have to keep as close an eye on everything to make sure a pack doesn't get overcharged(the charger handles that for you), & so many of them are so much more affordable today, so there's really little to no reason to NOT have one anymore. Oh, & also about your friend, the reason why he doesn't run as long as you may or may NOT have anything to do with what speed control he has, but it's hard to tell wthout knowing just what he has & how he treats his stuff. There are MANY factors that affect runtime, & even if he's off just a little on all of them, that will add up in the long run..... :cool:

[ikraj]

Thanks for the help. I will go try that tape.

The reason that I don't want an esc is because then I can't use a reciever pack. The pack lets me run my car so much longer than my friend who has an esc. For 1.5 of his battery packs will equal 1 of mine, so I feel I am fine without one.

If your decision about an ESC is solely based on the use of a receiver pack then I will tell you that YOU CAN USE A RECEIVER PACK WITH AN ESC. All you need to do is disconnect the red wire that is in the plug that goes to the receiver (from the ESC). That will take care of it. I still think you are making a wrong decision. Your efficiency will be so much better even without a receiver pack with an ESC. I think there is something wrong with your friends car set up. It just does not make sense at all.

[Ace_Rider]

Hey guys.
Not trying to be rude or anything.. but didnt he say not to tell him to buy and esc?? Now to the questions. If u need to u might be able to make a cooling head thing from scratch. just machine a couple peices of metal and bolt then on where your resistors bolt on to.Hope it helps.
Ace_Rider

[rcguy2477]

Hey guys.
Not trying to be rude or anything.. but didnt he say not to tell him to buy and esc?? Now to the questions. If u need to u might be able to make a cooling head thing from scratch. just machine a couple peices of metal and bolt then on where your resistors bolt on to.Hope it helps.
Ace_Rider
They arn't being rude at all. The reason he said not to recommend getting a new esc is because he stated that his msc was more efficient which is a misconception. A heat sink will only cost you ~$10, but an esc can be had for $40 new and $20 used. The esc also gets rid of an extra servo, along with the actual msc which is heavy compared to modern esc's.

For double sided tape, go to your local Sears and pick up a roll of the heavy duty stuff. This will last you forever and only costs you $1-2. Also, sometimes you can find generic stuff at dollar stores. I find the white double sided tape more sticky, and it provides a little more protection against vibration because its thick.

For the batteries, charge them untill they getl; around 120 to be safe.

[tt321]

Thanks guys but I still am not going to buy an esc.

For double sided tape, go to your local Sears and pick up a roll of the heavy duty stuff.

Sears? I guess I will have to go and stop by.

[Gojira]

if your charger is just a 15 minute quick charger i strongly do not recomend more then one charge at a time unless you like your batteries melted

[Gojira]

if your charger is just a 15 minute quick charger i strongly do not recomend more then one charge at a time unless you want your batteries and your charger to smoke