Tamiya paint question

[Turbojoe]

I'm using the Tamiya TS-47 chrome yellow spray cans on my Knight Hauler and want to clear coat it afterwards. Can I use the X-22 clear acrylic with the airbrush over this? I would have much rather airbrushed the whole thing but the chrome yellow is only available in spray can.
Thanks.


Joe

[kitty]

I'm not an expert on the paints you are referring to, but the clear should work okay. For future reference, one thing I learned from some of the guys around here is that you can use rattle can paint in an airbrush by spraying the paint into a glass jar.

[SteveK]

You can decant the spray paint and apply it with an airbrush: Lots of modelers do this, since Tamiya paint is very good but they want the control of an airbrush.

The acrylic paint will be OK over top of the lacquer. You can use the lacquer spray, but with Tamiya, you have to do it either within an hour after the last wet color coat, or wait a month so it can fully gas out. I'd wait a while for the color to cure before spraying it with any type of clear, just to be safe.

[Turbojoe]

Thanks guys (and gal). I've tried the spray can into a bottle before and only succeeded in blowing most of it out of the bottle. I'll have to give it another try.
The can really sucks as it starts spraying little "fuzzies" just as I'm about done. They sand out easy enough but then I have to spray another coat. I'm on my third VERY light coat with most of it being sanded off so there isn't much build up. If I can stop those fuzzies it's going to look fantastic. I have a brand new Paasche airbrush that I'm itching to try out. My old Badger needs packings and a basic overhaul. Probably can't even get parts for it anymore it's so old.
I was mainly concerned about the clear coat. I'll try to shoot it early on. The yellow dries VERY fast.



Joe

[Turbojoe]

Well this is going to hell in a hurry. I've never had this much trouble trying to get something painted. I finally got around to sraying some of the paint into a jar. Got the compressor and airbrush all set up. No matter what pressure or adjustments I made the airbrush just spit everywhere. Tried all needles and tips with no success. That's what I get for buying it at Harbor Freight. :mad:

After much work I finally got the spoiler part of the truck with a nice smooth paint job. The cab is giving me fits. The cans start throwing "fuzzies" just as I get a nice wet coat almost completed. Tried three different cans with the same result. I've had it with the Tamiya cans. I'll probably just get some Krylon and get it over with. The chrome yellow is far from chrome yellow anyway. It's way too orange. Now I need to remove it all. What's a good way to remove the paint without damage to the very expensive plastic body?
Thanks again for any help.


Joe

[SteveK]

Test it on some sprue first, but brake fluid works to disolve the paint. Put it and the body in an airtight container (Maybe a big bag or something) and let it soak for a day or two. I've heard isopropyl alcohol can also do it.

I haven't heard many bad things about Tamiya spray cans (NEVER anything bad about the paints), but then most of the model guys I know don't cover such large areas in one go.

There is a how-to on decanting spray paint in the tutorials section of www.briandsmodelcars.com

[Turbojoe]

I just soaked the body with brake fluid and put it in an airtight container. Hopefully it'll clean it off. I picked up some Krylon Fusion today thats a closer yellow that I want. I'm going to give it a try. I'm wondering if the fuzzies are caused by the extremely low humidity causing it to dry before it hits the body. Humidity has been under 10% here in the Phoenix area all week.
We have a swamp cooler at the shop. Maybe I should do my painting there with a little higher humidity. Do you think that might help?


Joe

[SteveK]

That's a definitely possibility: Dry, gritty paint when airbrushing is caused by the paint drying before it hits the surface. I don't see why spray cans should be so different.

I think maybe spraying closer to the body in dryer conditions might help. You might also consider spraying for shorter periods of time before letting the can rest, if you've noticed it happening at the end of a coat.

[standard_63]

Also, heating the cans up a little bit in a pan of warmwarm (not boiling!!!) water before spraying will help the paint come out with finer spray and more pressure. Quick, light coats is key. Takes patience, which I need desperatley!

[kitty]

I've been pretty impressed with Tamiya rattle cans. I've only used a few of them, but they are by FAR better than Pactra cans, which I've had nothing but problems with over the past year. If you are covering large areas, it's good to stop every now and then to shake the can very well again. That helps to re-mix the solvents with the paint inside the can and should help avoid the fuzzies.

When you decanted the paint into a bottle, some of the solvents (thinner) may have evaporated in the process, making the paint too thick.

By all means I recommend against using Krylon on a RC shell. What all types of RC paint do you have local access to? Sorry to hear that you're having so many problems :(

edit: There was a typo in the posted URL. It should be http://www.briansmodelcars.com/

[kitty]

Pfft. Sheesh. Here's a direct link (http://www.briansmodelcars.com/tutorials/tutorial.asp?TutorialID=3&CurPage=1) to the article in question.

[Turbojoe]

I got the body all stripped clean. Started some light coats last night with the Krylon Fusion. I still get the fuzzies but to a slightly lesser degree. I think the lack of humidity and mid 90 degree temp is my problem.
The Fusion needs quite a few coats to get a good shine. It's okay but I'm still not happy. When the bodies are available at Tower later this month I'll order one up and have it pro painted. I'd like ghost flames on it and that's waaayyy beyond my abilities.


Joe