Light Buckets...

[supertoast]

Yo, and hello from the UK.

I'm currently putting together a mean RX-8 shell, and I have a micro-switched light set ready to install.

There are no light buckets (unless you know different) for the HPI RX8 so I have some mirrored plasticard for modelling and I intend to make my own - the advantage to this is that I should be able to get a VERY reflective bright headlight interior - the lights will in fact be maginified in brightness.

I was wondering if anyone else has done this or if anyone has any tips.

I've tested plasticard moulding with a heat gun to soften it, and I've yet to test the boiling water soak. So far I can see no reason why my headlights (and brake lights) shouldn't be stunning.

Any tips?

I'll keep you posted with some photies.

supertoast

[aerosaaber]

a photolog would be sweet.

[supertoast]

Yeah, a step by step log - mistakes and all.

It's a good idea, do I post as it happens or post a complete log when I've finnished?

Part one starts here I suppose...

I have just received my 10 LED (yes, ten) kit. It comprises of 4 ultra bright white lights, 2 Blue Fog lights, and 4 bright red brake lights.

The brake lights glow half-bright, and are activated on to full brightness when your servo arm (or rod, or whatever you want) knocks the included microswitch.

After testing the brightness earlier - I've concluded that looking directly at them is a bad idea - in the same way as sticking your face infront of a xeon headlamp might not be the brainiest thing to do if you want to keep your retinas in-tact. In other words, they are bright. All this brightness from one 9v square battery (the ones ommonly found in toys and on kids tongues)

I have some highly reflective mirrored plasticard that I have been experimenting with too. So far I have discovered a few things about modelling in this medium. The only card available to me at the store - a few mils thick - is probably a little too thick for the job at hand, but we'll see as we go on. It responds quite well to being moulded and shaped after heated with a heat gun (or I suppose you could use a hairdrier). This card I have is a right royal pain in the @ to cut with my modeling knife, better with some sharp snips. Another moulding method would be to soak in boiling water - be carefull with yer fingers when playing with sharps and boiling water boys and girls, or it's wee waar wee waar medic time.

I'll see about getting some better thinner plasticard today - and also some photies to follow.

Chris

[supertoast]

Thin mirrored plastic on order, should be arriving next week.

Also I've gone bonkers and gotten my self a neon kit too lol - Pimp my 'fast and furious' ride - I'll show progress on that on here too.

My nitro car is by most people's standard - garbage, it's a basic Thunder Tiger with a few hop-ups on it etc. It was bought for a purpose, that purpose being 'messing around with it' so it fit the bill perfectly, cheep and fast. You won't be seing that anyway - you'll be seeing the shell and wheels etc but I dare say I'll get the odd "*** IS THAT CR@P?" lol

So, an RX8 with working headlights, 2 bulbs per side, blue fog lights and activating brakelights (2 bulbs per side) and neon front rear and sides. I'm looking at a custom strutted spoiler and pearlescant/colourchange shell colour. Nothing over fancy on the paint job as i like the one-tone finnish but with a little jazz - subtle but cool.

So that's the plan...

[C0NTENDER]

So, an RX8 with working headlights, 2 bulbs per side, blue fog lights and activating brakelights (2 bulbs per side) and neon front rear and sides. I'm looking at a custom strutted spoiler and pearlescant/colourchange shell colour. Nothing over fancy on the paint job as i like the one-tone finnish but with a little jazz - subtle but cool.

So that's the plan...

I have tried the two bulb look per side on a bimmer, but I just couldn't get it to look the way I wanted. I want to thank that the LED's I was using were putting off too much light. Goodluck