View Full Version : super G or super sport, that is the question
yellow-hydro
03-12-2005, 05:24 PM
trying to make up my mind which one to get.
enforcer super G or super sport,
does the SS worth the extra $200
also they offer to install radio and reciver for and Extra $100 is it worth it?
help me out please
Chris LaPanse
03-12-2005, 05:40 PM
I would get the Super Sport. More power, water cooled, and a better drive/rudder system. As for the radio install, do it if you don't have a 75MHz FM system already. If you do have a 75MHz FM system, then install it yourself. Either one is a great choice, though. You'll be amazed at how much better these are than small nitro or electric boats. Good luck.
mjmsprt40
03-12-2005, 05:52 PM
I run a somewhat older Gator. I bought the boat because I wanted to be sure I'd have one boat, at least, that I could depend on to run and give me a decent day at the lake when my nitro burners let me down. Good choice, when I take the Gator I'm sure the engine will start and the boat will run stable and dependably. She holds her own at about 40 mph with the air-cooled Homelite engine, since then Enforcers have gone to a better engine than the Homelite so it can only be a better boat.
yellow-hydro
03-12-2005, 07:00 PM
As for the radio install, do it if you don't have a 75MHz FM system already. If you do have a 75MHz FM system, then install it yourself.
thanks guys,
I already have 2 transmitters from my other 2 RTR nitros.
one is 75.630 MHz
the other is 75.87Mhz
that is exactly what I as thinking, why pay for more transmitters?
I could just get a receiver and a cristal to match my existing transmitters, right?
enforcers advertized price sya $xxx (less radio) , whenI called last time the person I spoke with could not tell me if the "less radio" means no trasmitter and receiver, OR no servos either... :-(
that is why I wa not sure if I am better off letting them put all that in and call it a day.
Also I have not priced radio and servos yet, I figured that there are many experienced guys here who would help me and just spit those numbers out without blinking :-)
thanks
Chris LaPanse
03-12-2005, 07:05 PM
Well, yours might be 75MHz, but is it FM? As for the servos, these will work just fine:
Steering: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN610&P=0
Throttle: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDEL7&P=0
Still cheaper than the factory installed system, although $100 for a standard servo, 1/4 scale, and a complete FM radio system installed is a very good deal.
As for compatibility, there are certain brands that are compatible. As long as you get the same channel and brand of reciever, you'll be fine.
yellow-hydro
03-12-2005, 07:27 PM
I am pretty surre it is AM transmitter
which brings an other question to the table ,
AM radoi and 2 stroke spark plug engine a good combo?
Doubledog
03-13-2005, 04:48 AM
Apples / Oranges
G'/SS (same running surface)
I've owned two G's w/XP (Octura) drives. Have yet to try a stinger system, but hear they're just as easy. To spend the extra money for it? Not on these boats. You're asking for opinions so I'm telling you mine. The Octura running gear (XP) is cheap & easy to replace if anything happens. I've busted a strut, lost a rudder & chewed up a few props.
Wouldn't knock someone for owning a better looking drive, but for play its too easy for me to chose.
Aircooled vs the watercooled? I like them both. Ran two RC230's in the G's. Swapped out to a 260PUM in one & had a ball. Have read where the boat was designed for the larger/heavier Homies & the RC230 is very similar is size & weight. This boat handles the engine just fine. When I went to the smaller lighter 260, it became a new boat. After becoming used to the running characteristics of the heavier engine, I didn't like it. Had the clutch been removed.... can only think of how it would've been.
Like Twinkle Toes Flintstone:D
Link
Swap..... (http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=161877)
Engine Swap (http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=161997&highlight=RC230)
ps, the one thing I'd like to do on these drives is to either move the rudder off to the right, or have the dual setup. For play, its still a good running drive.
yellow-hydro
03-15-2005, 08:55 PM
thanks for the info guys,
super G is on its way.
checked with enforcer: get this.....they claim super G is $799 less radio.... well it turns out it is less servos as well and no radio box.
as chris pointed out, 1/4 scale servo for the rudder an other smaller for trottle, + radio tray, receiver and transmitter would surely cost more than $100 , so I opted to have the radio and servo installed for an other $100.
I picked the super G over the SS beause a 4' long boat that will do 40Mph + is a handfull as it is. I am not in to racing or compating so hightech drive and rudder is not really needed. beside I got 2 other nitro boat tinker with.... So i got a chunk $ into toy boat.
I think I wil be happy with the G, if later the engine goes I will throw in a water cooled 260.
if I would have opted for a single boat gas boat to have I would have went with the SS.
ok......some questions.
watching the demo video on the SG , it appears that the stock exhaust canaster is pretty loud.....has anybody seen or made a larger quiter exhaust for such engine.
thanks
Chris LaPanse
03-15-2005, 10:30 PM
I don't think it is really that loud - I have run my manta (unmuffled wet tuned pipe) in a neighborhood pond with no complaints (just don't run it at night - it's not good for the boat or the neighbors:D).
Doubledog
03-16-2005, 03:13 AM
Fine choice. :) You'll be happy with this boat.
Stock exhaust.... Stateside,..... NAh, that cannister isn't loud by no means. The pipe is too much for me :o
The rc230 will last a long time as long as you feed it good oil. Dont' read the instructions & mix 4 - 1. Double it to 8 -1. Its not going to hurt it by running more.
Also, I bought my second one used. The first run with no tweaking it ran 40 mph in smooth water. In the pics' you see where its smoking heavy on take off. Heavy oil mix, a little old gas in the line, first time firing it up, & well below freezing might've had something to do with it. I miss this boat.
Super G at 40 :D (http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=152730)
yellow-hydro
03-16-2005, 10:29 AM
thanks guys,
reason I asked about the pipe/muffler, because when I ran my nitros at the lakeshore which is at one of many parks with play scapes and such in our city. has a huge field (depending on lake level) away from the kids play area.....to make the story short, all the kids form the play scapes ran to the shore to watch the boat, and seemed that some of the parents did not like abandening their comfy chairs and walk down to the water front to catch up with the kids. after a few minutes the kids wanted to play with the boat and kept asking if they can try it. well....after I said no one parent seems to take it in a treataning way and made a smart comment " our association dues surely will be lower next year" and walked away.
let me point it out that this is a state owned lake/lake shore where at any given time (spring through fall) boat from 10-40' long ripping through some with open exhaust and dual engines.
with that being said I am just trying to keep the social aspect to a friendly level and try to be a good neighbor.
ok.... exhaust......
I am in the metal fab business, and can make just about anything out of stainless or aluminum, so was thinking of designing a silencer (lets call it a muffler) of some sort wich would adopt to the stock can to lesssen the noise.
also thanks for pointing out the oil mix issue.
I have plenty good quaility 2 stroke oil (from my other hobby/ dirtbikes)
question:
the superG engine is it a homie or a zenoah, or a modified homie?
should it need engine parts where do you start seaching?
do you guys ever re-ring(piston) these engines like we do in our dirtbikes?
thanks
Doubledog
03-16-2005, 02:01 PM
Bud, theres enough parts on ebay to kill a horse. Just punch in Zenoah & sit back. You did buy the aircooled RC230 right? If so, its indeed a Zenoah. Don't think WHH has sold Homi's in a few years. Don't sweat the parts though. That engine is killer & will serve you well with normal maint. You have a string trimmer right? LOL:) Rings & such, unless you just flat forget to put oil in the gas, there should be no trouble but ebay or Jims will be a good source for you. Matter of fact, I've got three extra pistons & ring sets just in case, but doubt they'll ever be of use even after three years.
Noise issues is the reason why I run the Cooper quiet pipe. If you've read any of my posts about my G', you'll see how it was changed from the stock setup. Doesn't look good by no means sticking out the back, but its much easier on the ears even over the stock cannister. Thats me though.
Before doing the work, I called Mr C' @ WHH & talked to him about putting a tuned pipe on this boat. He said he didn't design it to accept one but mainly for the aircooled Homie & Zen. With that, he meant the pipe wouldn't fit fully inside. It doesn't even after changing to a smaller 231/260PUM. Theres not a lot of room on the side of the box.
Then again, if I was to do it over again, might would change to the smaller 231 & run a normal pipe "but" with one of Mike T's stingers. That should fit... tight & still give good performance while keeping the noise down.
Mine rig was on the chopping block last year. No more. It will always have a space reserved on the shelf in my shop. :)
For a muffler you could make a bigger canister and make it like a motorcyle muffler. With a tube with holes in it and packing all around it to absorb the noise.
yellow-hydro
03-18-2005, 10:28 AM
alright !!!!! :)
got my new SG yesterday, all I can say is .....WWOOOOOwwww and holly cr*p this thing is huge ! (where did I hear this before :) )
beside the joking , it is one nice package, those guys really don't cheap out when it comes to product and customer service.
I am not sure if you guys are use to this but ..
this RTR package is really ready.
beside the boat engine and drive package, it comes with pre mix oil (not the cheap ones), a huge roll of radio box tape ( 5" diam roll)
a trasmitter - Futuba Magnum 2 PL- digital LCD display , 10 model memory , trottle end point adjustment.... really slick
I guess I am saying I got more than what I expected.
also note: exhaust canaster is made out of aluminum
I will shoot some pics later.
Doubledog
03-18-2005, 11:03 AM
Tickled right along with you. :) Keep the pics in this thread so we can stay on top of it. :cool:
yellow-hydro
03-18-2005, 11:50 AM
here is a few pics, little V and big V
yellow-hydro
03-18-2005, 11:53 AM
here is the engine comp. note the cast aluminum exhaust can, and fuel filter installed , which is not much.... but a nice touch.
yellow-hydro
03-18-2005, 11:58 AM
here are the accessories and drive unit , pretty cool
Doubledog
03-18-2005, 01:47 PM
Yep, thats my boat all but the radio. Brings back some good memories of that baby sitting on the shelf waiting for the water to thaw enough to get it wet the first time. Wife actually didn't mind till the it got fired up & the exhaust stunk. :rolleyes:
You're going to love it & have some good times for sure. Just ignore what the book says & mix the oil 6-8 oz per gallon. You'll be fine.
btw, if I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little jealous. :D
.
scorpien boats
03-18-2005, 07:54 PM
I love the style of that gator hull
Good choice and i hope all goes well with it!
yellow-hydro
03-22-2005, 09:01 PM
what do you guys reccomend for exhaust on the G230RC.
problem is no so much the noise , but it is spitting 2 stroke oil all over the hull and the radio box during each run.
I admit I am running it a bit heavy on the oil, factory reccomended 32:1, I think I mixed it right around 18-20:1 for the first 1.5 gallon of fuel, which will take a while to burn.
I am not looking for an inexpensive ppiep , don't reaaly care for performance gain, but I like to have it "look good"
so far the boat is great, clocked it at 38.6 with the GPS, bare stock no adjustment on trim tabs and carb, hevy on the oil.
I really like transmitter that came with the boat. Futuba Magnum2.
beside that I can runall my boat with the same transmitter it remembers all settings for each boat. (servo reversing, throttle limits and such)
I even let my kids (4 and 9 years old ) drive the boat, I simply set the throttle limit on the transmitter to half setting and let them have some fun with it with out flipping it. :)
Doubledog
03-23-2005, 03:01 AM
& once its done with break-in, it'll get faster :eek:
Oil & stuff inside the boat.... nature of the beast. Keep some Simple Green or other grease remover & spray on there & rinse out. Will clean up good for you.
Pipe... go back & read my post about it in this same thread. The cannister is going go give you mid 40 performance after she's done settling in. ;)
Well, I ran my boats today and the little ones seem to just not cut it at high speeds. I ran my MM today and my Miss Bud. The MM almost flipped and the MB did:( So, I am thinking about selling them all for a gasser. I want to be able to run next to our full sized boat and take some chop. How big of chop can the Super G take??? I want something fast enough to do high 40's, Will the Super G do this. Also, Chris, can I get the Super G where I put it together myself so it is cheeper????? I just want something that will take some good chop and get some good speed.
Doubledog
04-02-2005, 03:10 AM
eric, look up Butch T on Jims Boat Dock. He's a dealer for Enforcer & can get you a boat with a good discount over most anyone else including Warehouse Hobbies. Email me if you can't find his address on Jims or call 207 676-9304. Tell him you heard about his discount & he'll take care of you.
The G' doing high 40's all day long? In chop? Look for another boat. Seems like a lot of guys here are hung on Enforcer, Bonzi' or Aeromarine. There's many more super quality hulls out there.
Ballentine (http://www.ballantinehobbies.com/)
Offshore Models (http://offshoremodels.com/con%20home.htm)
Seaducer Hulls (http://www.seaducerboats.com/home.htm)
AC Boats (http://www3.telus.net/acboats/)
Mastons Marine (http://www.mastonsrcmarine.com/My_Homepage_Files/Page6.html)
Now what kind of deal??? How does the Super G do in rough water??
Doubledog
04-02-2005, 06:24 AM
Ask me what kind of discount he'll give? Heck, call or email him & find out for yourself. Butch T (lthibod3@maine.rr.com ) or lthibod3@maine.rr.com. Tell him I sent you as a personal reference. He's cool dude & has taken care of me when ordering extra shafts & junk. Cheaper than WHH by a mile & won't rip your head off with shipping. :eek:
The G' does okay in the rough with the single rudder Octura drive. Oops, excuse me, the XP drive :rolleyes: . I personally don't like running in much chop with mine as I've dumped it more than once. Does a spectacular barrel roll.
Remember, what you consider rough with the smaller nitro's, might be a ripple compared to a 46 inch monster. Things such as small wakes from other boats are nothing where before you might've been more cautious.
If you're really talking about some chop (& don't say no 2-3 ft waves, hell, folks don't hardly run a 16 ft runabout in that junk with speed). I'd go with the dual rudder setup. After reading the posts from others, it seems to hold better & give superior handling at the cost of a mile or two. Not noticeable unless GPS or timed running in my opinion.
Just another thing to consider. If you order, drop the extra 15 bucks & get another drive shaft. The only one thats broke on me was in the used G' I bought for the wife & it was rusted in half but insisted on running it anyhow.
pizzz out. :cool:
Doubledog
04-02-2005, 06:33 AM
Ps,
Here's what I'm getting ready to do to mine in a few hours... 27cc SIKK upgrade BABY !!!!
We're going for BLOW OVER SPEED MR. SPOCK :D
Doubledog
04-02-2005, 11:46 AM
started on the conversion just now & ran into trouble. Posted on jims to see some other input.
The magneto coil only has one screw mount on the bottom left, leaving the second top screw open. Don't know if it'll work or not. Has me a bit conscerned as I've now installed a new jug & if was to sell it couldn't get as much back. Oh well, live & learn but maybe it'll work.
Here's a pic.
**edited an hour later**
Jims guys jumped quick. Add a bracket or tap the cooling jug. Easy fix. :)
Good Deal, How much will this conversion help???? Can I just call that guy and get an estimet(SP)????
Doubledog
04-02-2005, 03:11 PM
Eric, the only reason why I'm sending you to Butch is for the Enforcer parts or hulls. He can set you up & will take good care of you. Yes, call him. & when you're done, drop a line here & let us know.
As far as the conversion kit? I bought it from MASTONS MARINE (http://www.mastonsrcmarine.com/My_Homepage_Files/Page6.html) for $75.00. Don't know if its going to help that much as the the G' is about maxed out on what it can handle in the way of speed.
Thats something you need to consider. If you want a boat that will haul tail & handle the rough, but not too large, look for something like an AC hull or none like the WaveFighter I'm working on. Its a 60 MPH boat with stock 260 & some setup time. Will play in the rough REAL GOOD for a 44 inch boat.
BTW,
MASTONS MARINE (http://www.mastonsrcmarine.com/My_Homepage_Files/Page6.html) saw the post I did about having trouble with the coil & emailed me about a fix we can do in just a few minutes here. THATS SERVICE GUYS !
So Butch can set me up with a Super G just like warehoushobbies???? I want to put it together myself, so will that discount a little too???
Ok. I talked to Butch, He said 882.00 shipped. For the kit it would be about 800.00 but that was a guess because he couldn't find it.:( I want the kit because I want to know the boat because I'll own it.:D Thanks for the help DD. Now all I have to do is figure out if I really want to do it and figure out what I can sell my boats for.
t3NHRacer
04-02-2005, 06:44 PM
I am looking for the same type of boat as you ejp. I want a vee that will handle waves and 40mph speeds.
Exactly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I like your thinking. Oh yeah, that is 800.00 with the radio.:D
How much more speed will the Super Sport give me?????
Doubledog
04-03-2005, 01:05 AM
So the price is better it seems? :) Just remind our buddies where the deals are.
From my understanding, the Super Sport & the G' are the same hull, just different tops.
Eric, there was a guy selling a used Manta on Jims w/ 231 mod for 800 bucks. Might be worth looking into?
Check out this G'. Price is going down everyday ! Offer the guy $625 (or less) & see if he bites. You never know. Might get a super good deal. Could save you enough cheese to keep one of the nitro rigs?
SUPER G' For Sale (http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=87748)
.
yeah, but it sure took a hard hit to the side:( I would almost rather go with a new one and learn the tricks of the trade;) I would really like to keep the MM but it is the boat that will sell for the most:( I just want something bigger.:D
Hey DD, I am going to get some better pix and get some prices figured out on my other boats. Any ideas??? Just So everyone knows, I am NOT selling any boats right now so it would be pointless to make an offer.:D
Doubledog
04-03-2005, 06:34 AM
Just let me know if I can help in any way. ;) :) :cool:
My boat took a pounding from a smaller nitro. Busted a good hole in it. Put some duct tape & back in the water to finish out the day. The glass is not hard to do. As long as its in an area thats not too structural, its not much to worry.
The only reason for suggesting a used boat is the savings. The used yellow G' for my wife, I paid right at half price for it shipped compared to what I bought the new one for (& Mr C gave me a 100 discount!!!!!!).
On most everything in the world, buying new you'll take a hard hit on. Where the conservative shopper can find hug bargains buying used. Sometimes my pride gets in the way & I can't see a used item in my shop, but then again, if the price is right, I'M BUYING. :D
ps, yes I'm an 'ex' Used car Salesman. :rolleyes:
I figured it out:D If I sell the MM and the MB I can keep my first boat:D Or I could sell them all, keep my radio and have a few dollars extra:D
So, I've desided to keep my boats and sell them later when I get the money.
yellow-hydro
04-07-2005, 09:36 PM
Ps,
Here's what I'm getting ready to do to mine in a few hours... 27cc SIKK upgrade BABY !!!!
We're going for BLOW OVER SPEED MR. SPOCK :D
how is your coversion project coming along double D ?
Doubledog
04-08-2005, 02:58 AM
Had to wait on a tap kit to arrive this week. Hope to get it going & broke in for tomorrow. Will post results then.
Doubledog
04-09-2005, 08:51 AM
Just got back from running it. Nothing much to say as o. Two tanks ran through for break-in and a few WFO 200m passes to get GPS #'s. Got bored & left. Besides, it was a little cold & didn't really want to be there, but had to do it or else it would eat me alive. :rolleyes:
Here it is, G' w/27 SIKK conversion.
Doubledog
04-09-2005, 08:55 AM
Mota'
Doubledog
04-09-2005, 08:59 AM
Not thrilled about it so far as the numbers was way off. Then again, its still on break mode & probably needs a 257 carby. Cheap HP ... 75 bucks for the kit.
yellow-hydro
04-09-2005, 12:03 PM
looks nice amigo !!!!
I like the green color, looks sharp...... (on land)...... in the water I like the white ...easier to see)
the engine looks nice, I see that you run the quite pipe on it.
Question: with the engine mounted on a 3 point susp. how do you deal with the exessive side to side movement of the engine in relation to the fixed mounted pipe?
I am thinking of installing a quite piep of some sort.
more question: so waht kind of speed did you get ? any big improvemnt over the standard G230 or G230RC? was it worth it?
do you have a water pump in place or just feeding off the rudders force fed system?
different topic,
I notice exessive play at the prop shaft by close to the prop where it is supported by the strut, not sure if it is because the first day after the initial run the prop nut was loose and so does the prop so it created some vibes , not sure if it damaged the strut bearing, what do you think?
Doubledog
04-09-2005, 02:13 PM
<takes a bow> Thank ya'. Thank ya' much. :cool:
You've got to ignore the color combo. Was sort of an experiment you could say, rattle can style. :D Probably this summer, might go back to white or even that lime green I've dreamed about. :o
Side to side movement? There's just a hair. Nothing real noticeable. The way the pipe is set in the mount, it has a little give & is easily removed. The torque roll pulls the boat to the right & the pipe on the left you'd think would counter act it but it doesn't. (stab yours from a dead stop & see how it leans right). The pipe is not heavy at all. Dare say it weighs near the same as the stock cannister. At speed, is where it becomes apparent. She flies straight & level in good water.
Just got to overlook my riggin' as its not going to get much better. This boat does what I want & thats have fun without worrying. If it gets a scratch, theres no barking or complaining.
Comparison? Can't do so as of yet. Only ran two tanks. Well, its more like a 1.5. In the few WFO runs, it was reaching 38 mph. Sucks compared to the 44 - 47 I'm used to getting with the 230. Still needs to break-in good. Its almost like they have a timer or something that tells them "hey, you can run faster now so do it", plus its going to take some dialing again, possilby finding a new prop, pipe setting, maybe even a different carby. You'll find that for sure.
This time I tapped the spacer in the carb to run the pump. Very easy. Just had to reverse the pump & it had me quite confused last night as to why it wasn't pumping. On the 230, it seems it was tapped into an exhaust finger. Hense the reason the pump would clog with oil after setting.
Long post...........
exessive play on your prop? where again? Are you talking about the space behind the drive dog? There should be a teflon washer or two with about 1/4" space to the strut or stinger. This will allow the cable to wind up with torque.
Oh I see now.. lose prop nut. Not good. Are there any scars on the back of the prop where the dog fits.?
or are you talking about you can take the prop shaft & wiggle it around? If so then thats not good. did you install bearings in the strut/stinger?
yellow-hydro
04-09-2005, 10:22 PM
your boat will not go any faster in its current setup(prop) unless the new setup produce more RPM to the prop, which is not the case,
you got more cc-s therefor more power more torque , but not necesarly more RPM,
so you need to utilize the added torque and horsies by giving it a larger prop or higher pitch which will push the boat faster quicker.
but you already knew this :)
ok here is my take on the conersion,
first... I wish I would have gone with a water cooled setupinstead of air.
here in texas in the summer it will be 100* for a while.
however not necesaraly craving more power or speed, lets face it when the boat can go ~40 Mph, it means it will go very quickly away from me, out of my sight and "feel safe" zone. plush at that speed my reaction times, and water conditions could change fast, it is easy to send it into flip.
also I normally run it in a cove because that is where the smooth water is at any time, this limits the space.
I am not racing, so don't need the extra edge to run front of the other dude or beat him to the finish in the straight line.
the other thing,
the prop was loose after the initial run when the boat was new, thighten the prop nut and never woried about it after that.
the paly is where the prop shaft goes through the adjustable (up/down) strut.
here... looking it from the back in order....
prop nut- prop -prop dog- 3plastic spacer/washer- strut...... where the prop shaft goes throuh this strut,to me it seems it has more than normal side to side or up and down play, that is why I was askng if your is the same. it may be normal ?
no I did not install any bearing in to the lower strut, this is a stock boat. stock XP drive setup.
Doubledog
04-10-2005, 03:53 AM
If you & I was to meet with our boats, most likely it would be one of us running at a time. :cool: My racing days are long gone & what fun is it to try to show someone up when you'd might have a possible advantage? Main thing is having fun & keeping out of trouble. Its just about experimenting & not blowing much on it.
You're right about the increase in Cubes. Wasn't going out for the first few runs & expect to break records. We've got a few hundred props to try out along with a few pipes. If we get tired of it, it'll go back to the orriginal engine. She's already had a 260 in there one time :eek: Call me bored.
You're mentioned wishing you'd had bought the water cooled version. These engines will take some punishment. You know they're run 1/5 sport cars? There's a guy down the street has one with an RC260 with a Mercedes body. I've looked at it and wonder how does he get any cooling air inside there but he does. Also think the go-peds run them.
Sounds like you've already wollered out your bearings. They're cheap lead teflon deals that you'll get gigged good for.
Here's what you do: Make your own brass bearing. I've done it & don't use lead-teflons any more. Find some 1/4" brass tube & see if you can get it to fit over the stub (drive shaft). Might have to sand the inside slightly. Then insert into the strut. Jesh, I forgot what size I used as it was some scrap tube laying around. Been using the same set for two seasons.
yellow-hydro
04-10-2005, 10:48 PM
DD, check this out,
today i ran the super G , and it is throwing major roost behind it starting from take off , this is more than the usual roost ...it was throwing some before but now it has increased a quite bit.
I have not changed anything on the boat other than used different (heavier, thicker ) prop shaft grease, that is all.
what do you think is goin' on?
Doubledog
04-11-2005, 02:35 AM
& it didn't do that before? Any strut changes? Higher - lower?
Only thing I can think of is the engine is getting broke in & will increase the speed somewhat.
yellow-hydro
04-11-2005, 09:40 AM
no change I don't recall bumping it against anything,the strutis exactly at the same place as it arrived the first day.
oh well......doesn't mean much I guess....
tell me abouth the quiet pipe , how much quiter is it compare to a canester. what the best place to get it?
Doubledog
04-11-2005, 02:08 PM
IT IS very quiet compared to the stock cannister hense my reason for running it for the last three years. ;)
Rocket City is the first place that comes to mind or try posting a Want to Buy & see what you come up with. Thats how I picked up my last two. You'll need the complete setup (water cooled header, pipe & muffler with two sets of O'rings.) Thats it.
Rocket City Racing (http://www.rocketcityracing.com/pilot.asp)
yellow-hydro
04-11-2005, 02:32 PM
thanks man,
I will try at the want to buy section see if I got any luck.
Doubledog
04-15-2005, 05:47 AM
Did you buy one? I'm currious to hear how you like it.
yellow-hydro
04-15-2005, 10:54 AM
not yet, working on it.
I need to justify spending $100 + just for exhaust pipe. I've never even heard those pipes in real life yet .... it would be a plus to see what its about before making the purchase.
in the past in my younger days not to long ago, I bought "high performance", loud pipes for my street and dirt bikes, those were in the $300-500 range. Now i look back and say; for what ? it made the bike go 1 or may be 2 second faster in the 1/4 mile....
the other thing , the rooster tail in the previous post, the strut moved up a bit making the prop ride higher, I am playing with it to find the "sweet spot"
how is your SIKK conversion project going?
Doubledog
04-15-2005, 03:06 PM
Justification... Yep, I feel ya' there. Just keep us up to speed alright.
Boating is out this weekend. Would love to burn another tank or two & get that baby broke in but "honey do's" have my time. Will definitly keep you guys posted.
yellow-hydro
04-16-2005, 11:03 AM
DD,
I see that you are searching for a new exhaust, you don't like the cooper quite?
also have you ever seen a hatch made for a super G?
Doubledog
04-16-2005, 01:54 PM
Going down to take some pics. Be right back. ;)
Doubledog
04-16-2005, 02:06 PM
Yes, they do make a hatch... For the SS. The G' is the SS but with the RC230 engine & different deck.
I've wanted a hatch for the longest & bought this one off of 4Play. As you can see, it doesn't fit the RC engine. You can toss in a PUM motor & she'll fit fine: Which is what I might do again in a week or two. Just you'll have to work a way for the exhaust.
Speakin of exhaust, no haven't found a new one yet. Sold a Hanson to our buddy Scott E. Should've kept it & tried the T'bone muffler on it.
Doubledog
04-16-2005, 02:08 PM
another.
You can see it fits perfect all but the taller engine & the different exhaust.
Doubledog
04-16-2005, 02:10 PM
Last one.
Might try the PUM motor again & toss the hatch on there just for the sake of doing it.
yellow-hydro
04-22-2005, 09:17 PM
thanks for the pictures, I may skip the hatch idea. I got a cooper quite coming for the boat.
what would you reccomend for an alternative prop beside the stock, I like to get one with a bigger pitch or larger diam.
I think the engine may just be able to handle a larger prop.
thanks
Doubledog
04-23-2005, 04:29 AM
The RC230 wants to rev.
I've ran about 50 different props & still come back to the P275. Not just toss it on & run for a few laps, but actually get to know the boat with the new one.
Take the 275 & BARR Cut it next to the hub. It'll help the engine unload a little better in the turns & seems to help it wind out.
You'll find that going to a larger prop is going to slow it down. I've ran a larger 280 stock, (don't think about it...LOL,) lugs it down waaay too much, ran the same p280 with reduced diameter to 75mm (same as the 275) & it still didn't like it. Octura X470's 3 blade, two blade, x472's numerous hydro props that have been back-cut, modded, ABC G20, and the list is too numerous.
Even smaller props. The 270 is a little too small diameter as its only 70mm. Ran a 70mm with higher pitch,,, still didn't like it.
One note, a very good prop but a little pricey is a Prop Shop 7016-2. I think mine stock was about 40 bucks and was one of the fastest in the straights with nothing more than sharpening & balance. Consider that you can buy 2 Prathers for that price. :eek: Is the extra mph worht it? Not me. LOL.
Try the BARR Cut & see what happens. Very easy with a round file & balancer. This is one we did two weeks ago. Nice day for pics huh?
yellow-hydro
04-23-2005, 11:00 AM
holly smokes !!!!!
you can shave yourself using that prop as a mirror. :-)
thanks for the info, I will try that trick, also I need to polish my prop as well it looks slick.
By any chance do you know if the boat comes with a balanced prop or I've been running it out of balance.
need to get me a balancer and find out.
thanks
Doubledog
04-23-2005, 12:26 PM
If you bought the Enforcer combo, the prop should be balanced. I believe mine was a P275 out of Berrylium. Be careful with the dust from that material. Take some 600 grit sand paper & stick it under some running water. After that, try some 1200 grit for a minute or two. Then add a drip of dishwashing liquid to the paper & rub again. It'll shine real good for you.
Doubledog
04-23-2005, 01:36 PM
You want a bigger prop? LOOOOL.
Heres one I just finished. Good cat prop.
ABC 2916-3. Same 3" diameter but 4.75" pitch~! :eek:
(look closely & you'll see the scribe marks for which blades were heaviest. Talk about a pain to balance.) :rolleyes:
water dog
04-23-2005, 01:47 PM
I thought the front of the prop isnt supposed to be so shiny?.
Doubledog
04-23-2005, 01:56 PM
Depends on what you want for a finished product. :) My buddy wanted super shiny & thats what he got. :D
There's been some discussion in the past about shiny v/s dull or lightly sanded positive pressure blade sides. To my knowledge there's been no facts stating one is faster than the other. Seems they all do the same thing.... just some look better on the stand than others. LOL.
A little more work or you can hit it with a green scouring pad & still make it look nice.
yellow-hydro
04-25-2005, 08:49 PM
need some help,
got my cooper pipe today ,(used), not ounted to the hull yet,,
question; what is the reccomended order for routing cooling water?
note ;there is no water cooled cyl.head.
so far I got.....from rudder to cylinder adapter block- loop around, come back to muffler fittings, out to the sea
or the easiest would be ; rudder -muffler fittings- to the cylinder adapter -out to sea.
question 2; this is a silly one,
what is the correct order for the "O" rings,by the cylinder ?
I got so far.... adapter block- "O" ring- headerpipe- "O" ring- header coupler,, is that right?
thanks
Doubledog
04-26-2005, 04:30 AM
Order for routing: Without the watercooled head, just run the one from the rudder to the "bottom" of the exhaust flange. Then the top line to the exhaust.
Orings...
Bolt the 1st flange to the cylinder.
Place an O'ring over the round portion.
Then slide the second O'ring over the pipe & pull towards the header flange.
Bolt two halves together.
If you don't see it mentally, I'll take a pic this evening for you.
One more thing. Do not let the boat idle long as it will burn the O'rings up. Thats why I run a pump w/the clutch. Keep it moving along & it'll force enough water through there to stay cool.
yellow-hydro
04-26-2005, 09:28 AM
thanks, that is the way I bolted the exhaust , but called the parts a different name.
Doubledog
04-26-2005, 09:35 AM
Shoot, I don't the proper name for them. :o
yellow-hydro
04-26-2005, 10:28 PM
ok, got the boat running with the cooper....it hauls butt , just like it did with the canister, it is a bit quiter than the can, still pretty annoying sound if you run it WFO.
also seems that I will have to grind some of the cylinder cooling fins a bit because it does not allow the WTC header pipe to seat completely against the cylinder/exhaust adapter, so the header pipe was crocked a bit and spewed 2 stroker oil all over inside the boat. still had good fun with it.
moving on to other issues and hope you can sugest a resolution:
clumsey steering / handling.
it appears that the more I learn about RC boats the more things I find screwed up with the boats.
Warehouse hobbies , should have made the steering linkage a bit more straight path to the rudder with out all the bends in the rod.
As you may know the steering is pretty sloppy because of the flex of the steering/rudder rod.
As you go inot a slow turn and add a little rudder the boat jack knife on you. I found that you can wiggle the rudder blade a good margin before you see the servo arm moving..... this is due to the zig-zaggy path of the rudder rod.
what do you suggest , ? replace the rudder rod with a more beefy/ larger diam rod? or move the servo to a more straight path?
Doubledog
04-27-2005, 04:04 AM
Both things you suggested are good. I'm using 3mm rod for mine & it holds up good even with two bends.
How much rudder throw are you using? Too much will cause the hook. A lot of racers use just enough to get them around the bouys at full tilt & is how I learned to race my rigs.
Another option is the dual rudders. Guys have said for play boating its fantastic & helps the boat track good & straight.
The Coop does have a wonderful sound at below WFO. Can't wait to get one back from the welding shop.
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