A few XXXT-related questions...

[Nairb]

I've got a list going for what I want to buy when I get my next check, and some questions have come up.

Does the XXXT come with Ball-Bearing steering? Will I have to buy the bearings for it?
Do the Pro-Line Velocity truck wheels for the XXT fit the XXXT?
Does losi sell complete kits of titanium ball-ends (the ones with the hex-hole) for a XXXT?
I've heard I should buy an aluminum pivot-plate brace; who makes it and how much will it cost?
Does anybody have experience with Lunsford Tiscruz (titanium screws)?
What kind of gear cover comes with a XXXT?
Will RR Absolute Spur gears fit a XXXT?
Does the Losi machined (heatsink) motor plate help out noticably with cooling?

Thanks for the help, doods. I thought I might as well ask those who would know the answers instead of waiting to get the kit and find out myself.

[XXXER]

No ball bearing in the steering, they are 20 bucks, if you have a pretty good servo, you do not really need em, but they are nice, XXT, and XXXT wheels are the same, but i say stick with the new XXXT wheels, they are lighter and stiffer, Nope, ball studs are siold in pairs of 2, the losi ones are the best, but they are 9 dollars for 2, but really, you only need 4, 2 for the front bulk head, and 2 for the rear shock tower. i say ditch the Ti Scruz, they are too expensive, buy another battery instead, and some tuning parts, like washers, shock pistons, and tires. the gear cover is a clear lexan piece, it is dumb, i bought the RPM one for my XXX, much easier on the eyes. Trinity makes a blue aluminum rear pivot block, they are i think 30 bucks, i am actually having my neighbor make me one custom, he is a machinist.
RR spurs do not fit on the XXXT, they do not make any losi spurs i believe, they might make some hydra drive ones, but not dual disc, losi spurs are actually really nice, they are machined, and quiet, also they make the best pinions around, i do not know about the motor plate, i think it is just for looks, but i plan on getting it, i think it is only like 9 bucks, the stock one is HIDEOUS!

Later Bro
Steve

[SirSpeedy]

1. No. Run the bushings until they get sloppy.

2. Yes

3. No. I run the Ti balls everywhere. For the kind of racing I do, they are cheap insurance. Get them for the front/rear bulkhead first, so you do not have to buy a new $16 bulkhead if/when you break a stock stud. Upgrade the rest as you can.

4. Trinty makes the Au Brace, as well as Racers Edge. They are $8. The complete Au pivot block is $30. I do not recomend the complete block. It is exp, and DOES get sloppy. The brace will last forever, and you just change the $3 plastic block.

5. Waste of money. I run Trinty Au screws where strength is not important. Buy a $80 battery. You WILL notice that on the track.

6. Losi gear covers are fine. When it breaks, buy a RPM.

7.Losi double disk spurs only. They are very true. Machined also. Very quiet.

8. Not that I could ever tell. I let it go with my last 2 wheel when I sold it. Did not put another on my new car.

My only other comments would be run graphite arms front/rear, and a Graphite pivot plate. Those are the durability areas graphite will help. Leave the rest plastic. It makes the truck smoother.

See ya...

[mike]

we have 2 xxxt's,i've replaced the pivot blocks with aluminum ones that i made, my son and i have broken alot of the plastic ones, even with aluminum braces.
the rear wheels from the xxt work but the fronts have a differant offset.

[SirSpeedy]

If you land on one rear wheel, with the nose up too high in the air, you will break a pivot block from the rear.

The brace is to keep you from breaking the block from the front. That is the way you would usually break one in the course of racing, catching a rear wheel on a pipe, etc.

If you are a new driver, and are having trouble putting the nose down before you land, the aluminum block may be for you.

See ya....

[stormperson]

i have been racing my xxxt for around 1/2 a year now (longer actually) and i broke almost all of the stock ballstuds, and switched em to robison ones. i then got a xxx, and broke a ball stud, and the rest of it is stuck in the stock tower (the guy glued in the ball studs) so i need to get a whole new rear shock tower. but my Q is, are robison ball studs the best out their? which are the most durable?

[SirSpeedy]

Yep. I have seen the HG and the RRP ones break. The Losi Balls are the best.

[Nairb]

Thanks a ton, guys. This is exactly what I was looking for, great, honest, and helpful feedback.

1 - Last night I asked Stan if his XXXT has ball-bearing steering and he said no. Is the truth that it comes with bushing-equipped steering and they can be replaced with bearings, or is there no bearing capability at all?

2 - So Pro-line velocity wheels marked for the XXT will work for my XXXT? I'll buy these if I can't find white Losi wheels for it.

3 - Sounds like it will take a while to get a whole set...but I'm definitely going with the Losi ones. I saw some at the track last night and they looked SO COOL. I dig the hex part of them the most; can you say "easy to put on?"

4 - Alright, I'm "go" on the aluminum brace, but I'll have to investigate the aluminum pivot block before I decide whether or not to get it.

5 - These are still almost too cool to resist. Against all your opinions, I still may get them if I have enough money left over from necessary mods. They can't hurt anything but my wallet...

6 - I'll examine the Lexan cover before I go ahead with my original plan of getting an RPM piece. One thing's for sure, the ones that come in Associated kits are super-lame, and if the Losi version is similar, I'll probably go with the RPM version.

7 - It sounds like I'll be sticking with the Losi gears. My original plan was to match a RR spur up with my new RR pinions, so the mesh would fit optimally, but if I have to stick with Losi, I will.

8 - OK, this isn't a "must buy," but I'll probably still get one in the future.


One more question:
Can/should I get threaded shock bodies for my XXXT? How much are they?

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your responses (Especially yours, Sir, you're being EXTRA-helpful lately. BTW, my new PS is on its way http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif). If you have more to add, please don't hesitate posting more of your opinions.

Now I just need that ever-elusive check...LOL!

[SirSpeedy]

I would run the standard bodies until the hard anodizing/teflon wears off the inside. At that time, you can get the TiNi shafts, threaded bodies, etc. The bodies ar $20/pr., and the shafts are around $6.

Where do you race at?

[XXXER]

he races at intermountain RC raceway in utah with me, he brian, you CAN get some BB's for the steering, but it is a 20 smack in the face, threaded bodies are 7 bucks/body, then you need some shock nuts(not sure if they come with it) Go with the RPM one, they are like 7 bucks, much easier on the eyes.
Hey, speedy, where you race at? Hey, Bri, i know that Chris Clemson has some BB's in the steering of his XXX, and they are REALLY nice, i am probably getting some

[stormperson]

bb steering adds at least 10degrees of movement, and more speed. i would say its one of the most important ugprades.

Q, (Sorta long story but please help)i just got a used xxx to go along with my xxx, i was running way first (lapped the guy in second)in my first qualifier with it, and i broke a ball stud.

it was the one in the middle on the rear shock tower. i couldnt get it out, or the other one (the guy glued the stock steel ones in, or stripped em)
so i left the stock one, on the right side in the middle spot, but on the other side, i moved it to the outside, but adjusted the turnbuckle so they both had 0 degrees of caster. is my chassis tweaked at all?

or basically do the mounthing holes matter for the ball studs as long as the camber/toe in angle is the same?

[Nairb]

Stormperson, having unequal-length tie-rods (piivot balls in different places) does make a difference, but it's probably a subtle one. I've never tried what you have goin on, but I recommend making them the same ASAP.

Yeah, I race at IRCR in Utah, how about you, Sir?

Steve, $20 for (probably 4) bearings? No way, that can't be right! I'll have to check it out further. What do you mean by shock nuts, the part that supports the spring on the outside/top? RPM makes some too? Please clarify...

BTW, isn't this fun? Hopping up my vehicles is half the fun I get out of this hobby. I just love getting trick stuff that helps performance and/or looks cool. http://www.rccaraction.com/ubb/smile.gif

[XXXER]

Losi ball studs, but they are the most expensive, 9 dollars for 2

[SirSpeedy]

I am the club President in Daytona Bch FL.

Skyler and his dad were at my track the week before last. Hit his dad up for some pics of our track. This internet is making the world so small!!!!


The bearings are not a must have. Maybe in a couple months. They are $16.

The Losi shock bodies retail for $19.95, w/ adjustment nuts.

See ya....

[Nairb]

How cool! So, did you know Skyler and his dad before they came to your track? Yep, the internet makes so many things possible that would, otherwise, never happen. So Skyler's dad has pictures of your track? That'll be cool to see. You know what's crazy? The truck I currently race is older than Skyler! It's an old RC10T, albeit highly modified. Skyler is pretty dang good at driving, especially considering his young age.

So, pretty soon (hopefully) I'll get my check and I'll have about $450 to spend on R/C stuff. This is my prioritized "Hobby Wish List," things labeled with a 1 are my first priority to get.

<pre>
<strong>Team Losi XXXT $209 1</strong>
Sanyo 2400 Battery Pack $65-$75 2
Futaba (?) Digital FM Radio +/-$200 4
Velocity wheels, white $6.95 2
<strong>Titanium turnbuckles +/-$40 1</strong>
<strong>Losi Titanium Balls w/hex
(4 at least [inner]) $8/pr 1
Body Paintjob (Dave) $25 1</strong>
Tires (Fronts: edge or blade) $18 2
<strong>Holeshots $18 1</strong>
Mini Pin $18 2
Fuzzie T $18 2
Bow Tie T $18 2
<strong>Aluminum pivot block brace ?? 1</strong>
Aliminum pivot block $30 3
Lightened Outdrives $30 3
<strong>Good servo tape +/-$5 1
Bearings for steering ?? 1</strong>
Novak Millenium Charger $130 2
<strong>P2K Pro motor $40 1</strong>
Tougher servo (JR Digital?) +/-$100 3
<strong>TiScruz set $85 1</strong>
Graphite Chassis $50 4
Graphite A-arms ?? 3
Graphite Shock towers ?? 3
Graphite pivot block ?? 2
RPM gear cover (black) $6 2
Threaded shock bodies $20/pr 2
<strong>Shiny CVDs $38 1</strong>
Titanium Nitride shock shafts ?? 3
Novak Cyclone 2 ESC $130 4
<strong>Battery Box $10 1
RPM Delrin shock pivot balls $5 1
RPM Losi Shock wrenches $5 1</strong>
RPM curved Slipper wrench $4 2
<strong>Losi Black Heatsink Motor Plate $10 1</strong></pre>

What do you think? I tried to think of everything I would possibly need or want. Considering my $450 budget, would you reccomend some changes? Probably, huh? Thanks.

[This message has been edited by Nairb (edited 12-29-2000).]

[XXXER]

Skyler is an AMAZING driver, and his dad must be great with a wrench! he put in an 18 lap run in 5 minutes in stock buggy once i think, hey Bri, is the painted body gonna be by Davey Lindsay? i am pretty sure that i saw like 19.95 on those bearings, there are 4 of em, and they are SMALL, adn storm, it is a BIG difference, move the other to the outside also, or get a nwe shock tower(best idea) when you do this, your car should turn tighter.

[Nairb]

Yeah, Steve, Davey is going to paint my body for me. I'm working on a representation of what I want in Photoshop right now, so I can print it out and give it to him.

I have an extra BB steering kit for my truck sitting in my toolbox right now...It would ROCK if the bearings in it just happened to be the perfect size for a XXXT. I'll be crossing my fingers...

Can you believe Skyler has his own personal mechanic? That's nice. I had to have his dad solder on my new brushes Wednesday, because my iron was at home. He's a pretty nice guy.

[stormperson]

all the bb steerings are compatible. since the steering is the same in all xxx, xxxt, and xxxnt.

is set up for the xxx and xxxt around the same? like i currently have this great set up that came with my used xxx, will that same set up work well for my xxxt?

and to clearify, if i use different mounting holes(lets say they are used on both sides this time) and kept the same camber, or toe in, it would drive differently?

also anyone try out the new pro-line body?

[Nairb]

The problem is that my spare BB steering is for an RC10T. I might get lucky and have the bearings be just the right size, but that would be very lucky...

Yes, if you change the pivot-balls' position on both sides, handling will be affected (even if camber is the same as before).

What Pro-Line body?

[SirSpeedy]

Tell Skyler and his dad, Ben. Hello for me.


The ballstuds in the rear shock tower are means of adjusting the chassis roll center.

In short, a longer camber link will give you more forward traction, less side bite. The opposite effect it you shorten it. There are some side affects to that, as it is hard to make general statements about roll center. The stock positions on the XXX and XXXT are pretty much optimal.

One thing I have found with all the 3rd gen. Losi's, is that the roll center remains more consistent all around if you adjust it on the front bulkhead and not the carrier, and on the rear hubs, and not the bulkhead. Just what I have found in my testing.

See ya...

[mike]

SirSpeedy; i think your desciption on how the rear pivot block breaking is wrong,the impact you explain has the suspension absorbing the impact, the impacts that break the pivot block comes from impacts to the side, the rear corner and to the rear where there is nothing to absorb the impact except the arm and pivot block, i have never broke a rear arm on this truck always the pivot block, and switching to aluminum have still not broken a rear arm, i race almost every week and have seen quite a few of these broken.

[SirSpeedy]

I guess if you try hard enough, you can break one anyway you try to.

What I descirbed is landing on one rear wheel, with car near vertical in the air. That is the way I have seen most broken.

I have ran the front brace since we have been running the XXX w/ no problems.

I do swap most of the plastic parts pretty often to keep slop down, so I can't say I have ever ran them more than a couple months.

[Nairb]

Thanks again for all your feedback, guys. After reading it all again and looking closely at Steve's XXX Saturday, I've decided that this is what I'll be getting with my check:

Team Losi XXXT
2 pair of white wheels
Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles
2 pair of Losi Titanium ball ends
Body paintjob by Dave
Holeshot tires
Aluminum pivot block brace
Bearings for steering
P2K Pro stock motor
Shiny CVDs
Losi Black Heatsink Motor Plate

I believe these are my best choices to make a competitive, durable, and asthetically-pleasing truck to run in the stock class. Actually, these are the most important ones I will get first, because my money will run out after I get these. When I get more spending money, I'm going for more on my list. I just thought I'd tell ya what I've decided.

BTW, Sir, doesn't Au stand for the element Gold? I thought Aluminum was Al. Oh yeah, I told Ben hello for ya, and he says hello back.

[This message has been edited by Nairb (edited 01-01-2001).]

[stormperson]

if you are running stock, you mind as well get alum cvds.

also depending on how large your track is, i would suggest trying out a gm3

also the blue spec tires work great, on hardpacked surfaces that have just been wet down, and the front work on everything just short of blue groove. i would give the fronts a try, they are great (and last really long too)

[Nairb]

I heard that Aluminum CVDs break more easily than the steel ones, and I'd rather not break anything. Besides, I'm not sure how much extra performance I'll get from such a small weight difference on such a long and skinny piece of metal. Is it worth the extra risk of breaking an Aluminum bone? Have you tried them, stormperson? Has anyone broken or bent aluminum CVDs in a Losi truck during normal racing conditions? I don't plan on bashing much, if at all.

Well, my track is usually pretty tight with only one semi-long straightaway. Because of this, I think I'd rather have the more torquey P2K Pro so I can easily clear the big jumps, rather than have the highest RPM on the rare high-speed sections. Am I right?

Because of my limited spending amount, I think I'll stick with tire treads that people know and use regularly at my track. Maybe when I get more money to spend I'll try some of those funky (and stinky) blue tires, but for now, Holeshots are the ticket at my track.

Anything else, guys?

[stormperson]

well if you want more steering, then they are defently the way to go.

but i do have cvds in my xx cr, and they only snapped once, and i was running a 14t, but ya, the added durability is good to have.

[Nairb]

Originally posted by stormperson:
well if you want more steering, then they are defently the way to go.


If I want more steering, WHAT is definitely the way to go?


but i do have cvds in my xx cr, and they only snapped once, and i was running a 14t, but ya, the added durability is good to have.

Were they steel or aluminum?

I better hear more about this from Losi Truck owners before I decide Steel or Aluminum...

[stormperson]

the blue tires. they have great grip, on hardpacked but not quite blue groove, and they were alum cvd's. but they only broke after a rock had gotten stuck inbetween the cvd and the arm,and made a huge deep scar in it. if it hadnt of been for that, then i doubt it would of broken.

[wlowercnut]

Nairb some of your items are good choices but somethings aren't needed.I own a xxxt and race it at 3 different tracks I have broken front control arm and a rear block and broken a ti ball stud in the rear shock tower. And I replaced them with graphite and the stock plastic rear block I just make sure all the screws are tight between each race and I haven't had any problems yet.
The prices you have for your truck and other items are alittle steep. Try looking at different hobbie stores you might get a better deal. My local hobbie sells the xxxt kit for $179.00 you can contact them at www.bandlhobbies.com (http://www.bandlhobbies.com) for a complete price list of items. Just my 2cents.By the way I love my truck and plan on doing more upgrades later this winter like cvds. I also have the threaded shocks on the rear and it makes setting the ride height alot easier.

[wlowercnut]

Nairb you can also get handout motors alot cheaper and they run just as good as a p2k pro I have a paradox handout motor and it runs with the p2k's. Just thought i would add that as well.Well hope this helps some. Happy racin'

[SirSpeedy]

lol....

That's right gold braces. I don't know where that came from. Been a while since I had a good look at the periodic table.

I would get more Ti ballstuds for the CVD's. On your track, the Losi bones will work better. I only run CVD's on slippery tracks, when I need more on power weight transfer.

I posted a detailed explanation of bones vs. CVD's somewhere on this site. I will get if for you if you like.

There is a reason why on all our Losi setup sheets there is a section to mark which axles and outdrives were ran. The axles are part of the setup, they should be used as a tuning option, not a hop-up. For stock racing, Losi makes Al shafts for their bones.

See ya....

[SirSpeedy]

A-9926 is the part number for the Losi Al shafts.

$20 pair.

[Nairb]

I did read your explaination about the CVDs versus stock universals situation. I guess I just have CVDs on a pedestal in my head and nothing else is good enough. Maybe I will hold off on the change; your arguments made perfect sense. Hey, that'll free up $40 in a hurry. Ar the Losi universals plenty durable? I'm sure they're smooth. Ok, I'm not gonna get the CVDs.

[SirSpeedy]

I mostly run mod, with steel bones.

I did run the Al bones in my IWC Weapon, and that is 8x2 motors with plenty of traction. I would say they are plenty durable.

See ya....

[XXXER]

Hey, bri, you should look into some M3 Square Fuzzies, those hook up when our track is not wetted down, although, Assoc. cars do better on wetted down tracks, so look into that. And, the Green Machines are NOT good for our track in truck, in buggy, they are better, but definatley a P2K in a truck. Oh, AND, the dirt specs are no good at our track too, maybe the front tires, skyler has ran them once before, Oh, and he has bent a shiny CVD on his XXX. Well, that is all i can think of right now. Later Dood, oh, and, Al is aluminum, Au is Gold, and Ag is silver, i hate the periodic table, i am in chemistry right now, and nomenclatures STINK!