Flat head screws vs cap head screws

[Aylien]

I went to rebuild my transmission the other day only to find out that the heads of most of the screws had started to strip. After slotting some of them to get them out, I went to replace them and discovered that I didn't have enough flat head screws to replace them all. I was wondering if it will make a noticeable difference if I use 3/32 cap head screws of the same length on the bottom of my XXCR chassis instead of the 1/16 flat head, countersunk screws.

I hate those 1/16 screws, they strip too easily, I like 3/32 better, those things are solid. Don't even get me started on .050 hehe

flat head
http://members.aol.com/A6EQUJ5/Images/flatheadscrews.jpg

cap head
http://members.aol.com/A6EQUJ5/Images/capheadscrews.jpg

-Aylien

[This message has been edited by Aylien (edited 12-23-2000).]

[krayzie]

if your going to put the screws on the bottom of your chassis then go with flat head (countersunk)screws the cap head screws will stick out.The heads will wear off and you have more of a chance of getting caught or hung up on something on the track.

[gubbs3]

Get a high quality (RPM MIP or Hudy) 1/16th hex driver and new flat head screws and they should last quite a while. The biggest problem of using those black L wrenches is that they get a rounded tip and strip out themselves and the screw.

[Aylien]

I have some brand new Duratrax ball drivers, but they seem to be loose, even with new screws. I guess I should get a non-ball driver for .050 and 1/16

-Aylien

[Grant Tokumi]

I use two "cap head" screws on the bottom of my RC10GT to hold the engine to the chassis. The screws do stick out, and I haven't had a problem with it being weared away. I've used the same screws for around 1 year now. However, I do only use my GT on a dirt track. If you play on asphalt or concrete, I would be more hesitant to use the cap head screws.

I do believe your stripping problem might be due to 2 things:
1) faulty wrenches. Like gubb3 mentions, the L wrenches are junk. After market ones are much better. The Duratrax wrenches you have should be ok unless you think they are too loose like you say.

2) clogged screw heads. You have to clean away the hole in the head before you put the wrench in so that the wrench goes as deep as possible. I spray some denatured alcohol on the screw head, wait 5 seconds to let it soak, and then use the end of a paper clip to dig out the dirt in there. I've heard of people applying silicone on the screw head to prevent dirt from getting in the screw head. When ready to remove the screw, pull on the silicone and it cleanly comes off. Nice, but my only gripe with that one is that silicone takes around 24 hours to dry. That method won't work when wrenching at the track or under time constraints.

Another solution that I've started doing is to buy the screws at the local hardware store. I purchased 4-40 screws in various lengths. The ones I've got are countersunk (flathead), are a direct replacement for the hex screws, but are slotted to use a flathead screwdriver instead of the hex wrench. Slots are much easier to clean out than hex holes to me.

Happy Holidays!
Grant

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