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RespirologyRC
03-22-2005, 09:30 PM
Maximum I have a killer body that i'm about to sell on ebay that would look killer on your MQ!!!!!!!! I will try and post pics as soon as I can get my computer working again. Give me a day or two. But boy this body would do you rims some serious justice!!!!!111

MaximumF350
03-22-2005, 10:36 PM
post apic or a link to the auction. I'll check it out.

RespirologyRC
03-23-2005, 01:45 AM
I'll post it here first!:) I like to post all my pics here first then place them on ebay. I'll send you a personal email when I post it

RespirologyRC
03-23-2005, 09:48 PM
here are the pics I mentioned

RespirologyRC
03-23-2005, 09:49 PM
sorry wrong pic here is the one I mentioned that would fit and look good on the MQ

RespirologyRC
03-23-2005, 09:50 PM
You can find more pics in the body painting section of this forum, if your interested make me an offer and shipping is usially $1.75 priority:)

ChumsGum
03-24-2005, 12:19 AM
Email RPM and kindly demand them to make MQ arms. Their site says they can be emailed with suggestions.

Talk2Us@rpmrcproducts.com

edit: don't forget to ask for bumpers too, the rear bumper on my MQ already cracked.

kurrz
03-26-2005, 09:49 PM
Has this happened to anybody else? I got my MQ back together today and the truck ran fine for a minute and then all i had was steering so i walked over to the truck and tried to get it to run and when i had it in my hands the battery leads began to smoke and sizzle would the esc crapping out cause this?

guver
03-27-2005, 02:08 AM
I had a esc go bad already.

kurrz
03-27-2005, 06:58 AM
Hey Guver would the esc cause the leads of the battery on the battery side of the connector to fry? Thanks

guver
03-27-2005, 01:25 PM
I suppose it could, I'm going to put a MQ esc up for sale in the for/sale forum if anyone needs one (stock)

kurrz
03-27-2005, 06:29 PM
How much?

guver
03-27-2005, 07:10 PM
$39.00 shipped

littlebuddha
03-31-2005, 05:34 PM
i use the associated xps, its much better than the stock as it has brakes, and can handleeven 540 motors. they go for 25-30 used. if you can afford it go for lrp quantum reversibles, theyre awesome and even seem to provide added punch and speed!

kurrz
03-31-2005, 05:38 PM
Thanks LITTLE BUDDHA was also thinking maybe a novak xrs.

littlebuddha
03-31-2005, 06:13 PM
ya the xrs can handle hotter motors and probably has better brakes- its got a great double pump reversing system, depends on if you like it or not. XPS beleive it or not has a higher frequency than most (even quantum rev) escs, xrs included. its very smooth, tiny, cheap. perfect for micros i think.

FLYBOY7
04-05-2005, 10:33 AM
a few notes from the 18th scale nats held at RC Madness in the mini monster class from last weekend...

special props to Jeff Noffsinger and Jason Holt from Duratrax for flying out to the race... both guys were super cool, and Jason's Quake was crazy fast... they both bent over backwards to make sure anyone racing the MQ was totally hooked up....

if i remember right, there were only 10 entries in the mini-monster class... all of them MQ's... next year, there will be a lot more trucks in this class, but the MQ makes a Great race machine when it's dialed in, so i bet it wins again next year...

this race was held on Ozite, and it had 4 jumps on it.... i don't think there turned out to be a "hot" tire combo, but we were required to run rubber monster truck style tires... (other classes could run foams).... i ended up running the Duratrax MQ knobbies, with CA glue on the outside bead of the fronts, and it felt really dialed...

the race itself went flawlessly, and it seemed like everyone had an awesome time... the people running the event put on a very professional, but fun show... props to Chris, Dean, Gayle (sp?), and the rest of the RC Madness crew....

Tim M

guver
04-12-2005, 10:19 PM
I loved reading that report...

Hey anyone who runs the optional tires are they a little suishier than the stock ones? I find the stock ones to be too hard a material and cause a lot of bouncing. I don't know if I'll be happy getting the pinspike ones or are they very firm too?

MaximumF350
04-13-2005, 12:12 AM
The pin block tires are much softer and come with foams.

guver
04-13-2005, 12:52 AM
Ok thanks, they sound like that's the ticket then. Now I just need to keep the shafts from breaking....... 5th time.

NitroBoy24
04-13-2005, 01:09 AM
Ok thanks, they sound like that's the ticket then. Now I just need to keep the shafts from breaking....... 5th time.

Saddle up and buy the CVD's dude! Best $50 you can spend on the truck, besides battery packs and deans plugs on the motor -> esc and esc -> battery.

guver
04-13-2005, 01:20 AM
I have the batt, and use a std tamiya connector. But I can't see spending $50 on a 150 dollar truck if I don't have to. I may just have to if I can't figure out why the outdrive shafts are breaking so quick.

cjg
04-17-2005, 08:37 PM
guver, do you have the new plastic outdrives? I just got my mq from tower after they were out of stock for a few months. I'm still running stock motor, but haven't seen any indication of problems with my plastic outdrives.

Then again, I am cautious with the brake. I've set my reverse down low by having the throttle in neutral when setting reverse on the esc. I don't get much speed or power in reverse, but i do get a softer brake!

guver
04-17-2005, 10:36 PM
Yes, that's the way I have mine set-up for the revserse. I have been using replacement out drives so far. I have a set of aluminum ones that I will put in the rear. I broke down and am too lazy to figure out why they break. Maybe is simply that they are weak. They are smaller diameter than the outer ones.

guver
04-17-2005, 11:47 PM
Ok, I just got done replacing the plastic ones again. I decided not to be lazy and found out that the side gears have lots of radial runout in them when mounted with the safts (that break)

Here's what I did, make sure thaere's plenty of clearance in the gears, and removed all the heavy grease. I now have very free diff action. Not the best for posi, but hoepfully may make the shafts not break.

kurrz
04-18-2005, 05:28 PM
Well finally got the MQ back together and now once again it's broke the upper arm and knuckle too bad it's so fun to run I think it's going on ebay. I want a TLT 1. How much should I ask? It's got DTX cvd's, 2 cbp 1150's, and a DTX Sprint ESC.

guver
04-19-2005, 02:11 AM
It's really worth more than anew one, but you probably won't get that out iof it. I have a like new one fopr sale for 129. That's why I hate to put money into a truck in hop-ups. If I am going to keep it I may, but not if I'm getting rid of it.

kurrz
04-19-2005, 04:25 PM
Yeah me too I thought I would hang on to this truck but, it always breaks and usually just when I start to have fun. So i'll see what I can get for it. Thanks

guver
04-29-2005, 05:46 PM
I used original plastic sliders and made them look like the original shafts.
drilled out the two sides of the carrier to fit larger shaft.
opened up the two side gears to fit the larger shafts.

Here's what I think the stock shafts are too small and that is why they break. I have increased the diameter for very cheap cost, next set I will get machined perfectly. I will up date if one breaks.

jeepboy109
05-07-2005, 10:50 PM
I don't quite get how you did that?

guver
05-08-2005, 03:32 AM
The splined shafts were cut off at the splines and then two sides were flatted like the original output shafts coming out of the difff. The shafts look pretty much the same, but are larger in diameter. I then drilled out the carrier and opened up the side gears for the larger shafts.

it hard to splain it .
maybe a pic if I take it apart some time.

jeepboy109
05-08-2005, 09:42 AM
Yes, that would help.

rush freak
05-11-2005, 09:20 PM
im going to lock my rear diff

rush freak
05-11-2005, 09:23 PM
that is one sick dodge pic RespirologyRC

madforRC
06-12-2005, 07:19 AM
I have just bourght a mini quake what options and upgrades are there for this truck, is there a higher capacity battery than the 1100 sugested in the reviews. What motors are there which would give increased speed with a nice ballance with runtime.

Quinton
07-17-2005, 11:31 PM
I'm with madforRC on this one. I just bought one and would like to know more about it.

Pro's/Con's etc. Thanks!

MaximumF350
07-18-2005, 12:38 AM
check out this place for all your MQ questions:
http://www.one18th.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=170

guver
07-18-2005, 01:13 AM
There are 1200's I believe.

Quinton
07-19-2005, 01:57 PM
Alot of info on that 1/18th site. Thanks!

But real quick, what speed hopups can I do to it for as cheap as possible?
ie not replace the esc, etc etc.
Thanks

MaximumF350
07-19-2005, 02:06 PM
The cheapest way to gain speed is get a 19t pinion and a 40t spur gear. That should give you an extra 5mph. You will lose torque and watch that your motor doesn't get to hot. A heatsink is also a good idea. That will all cost about $15

guver
07-22-2005, 11:15 PM
I got this wheelie battery mount for the back and considering putting 2 packs on the mq with very low gears and aluminum outdrives and shafts in the rear.

I need the lwest gears possible what you all think?

nitro_newbie
08-07-2005, 08:31 PM
well i am interested in getting a mini but i dont want a mini-t and i was looking at the mq and was wondering if i would buy one could i go brushless like a mamba 4200 or 5400 at the most 6800 would i have problems finding the coreect sized pinions that mesh up right and have any of you guys experimented with any brushless systems also do other batteries besides the duratrax fit the mq like the rc18t's?
thanx for answering all my questions:)
nitro~newbie:)

Quinton
08-07-2005, 08:57 PM
rc18 batts do not fit. There packs are side by side whereas we need them in a stick pack configuration. I bought some GP1100's off a guy named top_quality_cells on ebay or something similar to that. He made the pack the way I needed it. Made a HUGE difference in speed and runtime. I was jumping it off a good size jump today and it was handling it very well.

Duster_360
08-08-2005, 10:45 PM
I've recently bought a MQ SE to build brushless with the 5400 Mamba combo. The prob is the MQ gear pitch limits the pinion choices severely. The mamba motor shaft is bigger than the MQ shaft so none of that works unless you come up with some kind of bushing.

The guy that won this years 1/18the Nat's using a MQ shared his setup over on one18th.com - he changed the MQ spur to an rc18t 55tspur making it possible to use HPI micro rs-4 metal pinions that are available from 9t up that fit the mamba shaft. He ran 10t pinion in his and had no cogging with good cells. He says he's not had good experience with anything above the 5400 and it has plenty of speed and torque running 6 cells.

The dicey thing is modding the rc18t spur to fit the MQ driveshaft and still get the pinion mesh right in the diff. This has got to be done right or it'll eat either pinions or ring gears. The parts are cheap (except the Mamba setup, lol!), so I'm going to give it a try. If you're interested, I can come up with a link, but its on the 1st page right now in the MQ forum at one18th - I believe it says RC18t Spur, something like that anyway. LMK

Quinton
08-08-2005, 11:26 PM
Sounds cool.
When you're done post a vid of it drag racing your TNX. LOL Should be a good fight.

Duster_360
08-09-2005, 08:18 AM
That would be good! Especially since I use a single 3PK to run everything I own, lol.

nitro_newbie
08-10-2005, 01:33 AM
wat is the most commonly broken part on the mq? would putting steel sleeves on the out drive cups help them and upgrading to some cvds all i plan to do is go brushless and get mini-t wheel adapters and maybe race at my local track and sand slinging in the winter. and any other weak points that i should know about? thanx
nitro~newbie:)

p.s.
duster how is the minizilla compared to the miniquake is the minizilla pretty quick out of the box sorry to get off topic just no one is in the mini zilla forum and wat wheels could i use with the minizilla again i am sorry for getting off topic
thanx
nitro~newbie:)

Duster_360
08-10-2005, 02:46 PM
Used to be the outdrives were the most commonly broken part, but DT made upgraded the outdrives with the later MQs and they don't seem to be breaking those much anymore. Now it seems its suspension arms and knuckles that's breaking the most

Minizilla is geared diff than MQ - its slower than the MQ out of the box and has a high CG making it prone to roll in turns. The Zilla will accel quicker than the MQ but it runs out of speed and the MQ catches and passes it. Those are the 2 reasons I don't own one. Can't help you on the wheels question. Try the Zilla forum on one18th.com.

nitro_newbie
08-10-2005, 11:41 PM
how dou you like your mini quake duster is it worth the money and is it good out of the box cuz it wont be going brushless for about like 6 months and could you put a review of it cuz i dont trust the magazines for info on this truck i want it from some one that owns one:)thanks for answering ll my questions
nitro_newbie:)

Duster_360
08-13-2005, 05:39 PM
Read this review - http://www.one18th.com/ShowReview146.htm

My comments - I bought mine from ultimate too, so it was the same price or maybe slightly higher - I think mine was $149. Out of the box after waiting for the supplied batt to charge, it was fun for about 6 min, then the batt was gone. Got to run again, 3hr later after batt was re-charged. Again for about 6-8min depending on you're running it - WOT will run batt down quickly. Definitely need GP1100s and good charger. With GP1100's WOT will last about 12min and with just moderate running, I've gotten over 20min more than once. I have an ICE charger and batts now charge in just more than an hr at 1.0amp. I've got 2 quality batts by UnitedRC and 3 by maxxamps, so I can run for over an hour starting with them all charged. It also is faster with the GP1100s, noticeably faster than with the stock batt.

My biggest complaint is the steering slop. Some seem worse than others and I apparently have a worse than others one. It is fine until you turn it and then it seems to have a mind of its own and you have to correct, then correct the correction and then correction's correction and so on. I have bought the graphite parts hoping they'll be stiffer and give me some strg precision, but have yet to put them in. There is a trick with rubber bands that I have not tried either thats supposed to help and last, changing to the pin tires from the chevrons is also supposed to make it better. I'll get to try all this when nitro season and work backs off a little, just too busy right now.

Is it worth it? Judging by reading other forums for 18t, the Zilla and the mini-t, the MQ is a little bit better out of the box breakage wise since they all have their probs. The stock motor is ok, there are faster ones out there, but the prob is the stock pinions are pressed on the motor shaft and are real hard to change without damaging the motor. On top of that, the MQ uses a diff gear pitch that prevents using most of the available pinions out there. I guess you can be happy with it for 6 months waiting to go brushless - heck, the stock motor is only like $9, so you can afford to burn a few of them up. Maybe by now, UnitedRC can supply some pinions and with their K4 motor, you have some options for going faster. Stock motor isn't that bad though speed wise as long as you're running GP1100s. If you do get one, remember to get a heatsink for the motor, it needs it to stay healthy over the long run.

I bought the MQ SE when it came out and it will be brushless with a mamba 5400, but looking at it the strg - doesn't seem much diff than what I have now, so I may be setting myself up for more disappointment, but only time will tell, lol!

nitro_newbie
08-13-2005, 07:25 PM
thanx i guess i have to start saving up then so i can get one and maybe it will go on sale at my lhs so i can get one faster thanx again duster for the review
nitro_newbie:)

Quinton
08-13-2005, 09:20 PM
I've got one as well. Stock batts will make you not like it, but get a gp1100 and you will love it! Mine is as fast as my friends rc18mt with gp1100 and a better reedy motor. He was jumping his off my ramp into the grass and his chassis was bottoming out. I thought I would try it as well and was REALLY surprised. No chassis slap at all and it seemed to be better balanced in the air because I landed everyone of them.
Its a fun little truck but it is way too fast to run indoors. lol

kurrz
08-24-2005, 08:31 PM
Hey nitro newb Ive got a MQ Ill sell you. All upgraded with cvds, batts, and some spare parts it needs only an esc. LMK

Quinton
08-24-2005, 08:44 PM
how much?

kurrz
08-24-2005, 11:13 PM
Make me an offer I have a price in mind PM me if you like Ill tell you more about it. Thanks

nitro_newbie
08-25-2005, 12:59 AM
thanx but i cant buy one right now since i owe this guy some money because he gave me a good deal on a xxx-t2 sport and it was upgraded and i bought so i need to make like 75 more dollars to pay him off but thanks anyways
nitro_newbie:)

guver
09-25-2005, 03:52 PM
Anyone have a wheelie miniQ?

I just built one with 12 cells using both battery locations, It is very fast top speed, but I can't seem to gear it down enough. I am thinking of pulling all the front drive stuff out of it. I used 46 spur and 13 pinion. It will just barely pull a wheelie I think because of the battery being in the stock location and also it is geared so high.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKHW6&P=Z

guver
10-02-2005, 03:17 PM
Here's an update on the 12 celll MQ, It is very fast and even the run-time is quite good. the stock motor runs fine on 12 cells and isn't getting hot either. As far as a wheelie machine is a failure though. Too much weight on the front-end.

I am using a little airplane/boat esc , even the stock outdrives have been holding up ok, 6 runs or so so far.

Duster_360
10-02-2005, 04:20 PM
Have never seen that batt box add-on. You're running batts in both places? You're running this as 7.2v, not 14.4? Sorry for the q's, but not sure I see why.

If you'll do the rc18 spur mod, it'll let you use the micro rs-4 pinions/spur and they make the pinions 8t to 13t. Course you'd be running 55t spur too, so that would gear it up anyway.

guver
10-02-2005, 04:38 PM
I am running 14.4 volts. The packs are in series. I using the smallest pinion and largest spur. I would like to hear about mounting a rs-4 spur? That would be nice to gear down and pull wheelies like I intended. a 55 tooth spur and 8 tooth pinuion would gear me way down.

what's involved in using a standard pitch spur gear?

Duster_360
10-02-2005, 09:14 PM
OK, that makes more sense, but can't believe it doesn't make the stock motor get really warm. I guessed they would be in parallel due to potential for getting motor very hot. The stegga motor (1st batch sold on 18th.com - he's either quit selling it or they are now 4.8v rated) is a 3.8v motor and running it with 7.2v (GP1100s) I was seeing 275F on a cool day.

Here's the best documented rc18spur gear mod I've seen, gets away from the weird gear pitch DT used on the MQ -

http://www.one18th.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26522

There are pics on post #11. There is one other post, the '05 winner of the MQ Nats was Tim Mohr and his orig post has some added details on this - it was what he used to run a 5400Mamaba in winning.

http://www.one18th.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20283

guver
10-02-2005, 09:22 PM
Thanks for that, and yes, it did surprise me too as my other 6 cell one gets hotter than the 12 cell one. can't quite figure that out. Maybe the difference is that it is a street truck, and gets lots of airflow. I just got done removeing all the front end components and will try for more wheelies.

Quinton
10-02-2005, 10:20 PM
Or you could just install a Mamba. :)

Duster_360
01-06-2006, 08:42 PM
Has anyone tried fitting the upper arms from the Vendetta on their MQ?

They look much stronger and look like they will fit with a little trimming. If they do, should fix the lousy strg once and for all. Both the ones I've bought seem to have a mind of their own when it comes to steering.

guver
02-06-2006, 07:39 PM
If anyone is interested I have done a bunch of reasearch on li-po for the MQ and it seems that there are just a few good choices (as long as they fit the box)

I needed to get batts for mine and figured I would jump to li-po for just double the money. I was using 1100 nimh and it is not real good anymore.


If you don't mind lifting the batt box slightly then

Electric power 3S 1600 $40
Vampower 3S 1700 $35 (this is what I ordered on sale best deal 2s & 3s)

I did research and measure carefully about 30 different 3S batts , Use at own risk. I will post results for my off-roader and my (NON) wheelie truck.

guver
02-26-2006, 02:14 AM
Well, the 2S is very nice I have it geared up to the highest ratio. It is the fastest it has ever been. (broken outdrive)

The 3S is geared down to the lowest setting and is too fast to control, I like it. Both runtimes are in excess of 15 minutes.

One question about integy steel cv axles, How do they stay into the diff gears? It keeps [popping out.

starluckrc
02-26-2006, 02:01 PM
I run 3S1320mah ThunderPower packs in my MiniQuake SE. The current motor I am testing is way too much and wheelies itself over at any throttle position. Well......I've never made it past 3/4 throttle because at that point it unglued the tires as well. I'll be scaling back the kv for 3S for a little more control. The Tekin Mini Rage esc that I am testing is performing flawlessly as well. Brushless combos for the MQ/Mini Inferno will be in stock soon.

guver
02-26-2006, 02:24 PM
Sounds good, My next one will be a 2000 2S. Glad you remind me I have some tire glueing to do,,,,

Duster_360
02-28-2006, 01:42 PM
I started with Integy's 7.4v 1500 20C lipo- fits with a minor mod to the batt - have to remove a few of the multiple layers of shrink - fits with just a single layer wrap (came with three thick layers of wrap). Need clearance for the batt wires, but the Gps needed that anyway.

I've cycled these several times and they appear to be losing ground - input charge is getting smaller and run time is decreasing. Poor choice, guess thats why they were cheap. Will look at the TPs.

Might have rushed to judgement - been running batt in teh vehicle and its doing great. Got 15min running and batt is at 7.9v. I'll reserve judgement and wait for a little more experience with this batt.

tmaxx101
03-11-2006, 05:31 PM
What do you think about the Mini Quake vs. the Mini T. Im looking to buy one or another. Which one do you guys suggest? I

Tommy_rc
03-13-2006, 12:55 AM
hey i want one of them i saw it in the march issure of rc car action.
i want a moster truck to use for indoor and outdoor use because we just got this big deck built outside..

1/18 Mini Quake EP Monster Truck

Retail Price: $299.99
Street Price: $199.99

whats that in australian $$$$$$

cheers tommy

guver
03-13-2006, 01:25 AM
Sounds good, My next one will be a 2000 2S. Glad you remind me I have some tire glueing to do,,,,

2S 2000 from Common sense RC works great. Have to manipulate the ends and wires because they came out the side and they have to come out the end. Same weight as a Nimh batt.

guver
03-20-2006, 10:21 PM
Hi, I have the integy steel Universals and they keep coming out of the side gears,,,, I did put in a o-ring on the wheel ends to keep them in farther, but they do not stay engaged with the side gears. Anyone know how to fix this?

Duster_360
03-20-2006, 10:45 PM
The fix I've read about is to use a small piece of fuel tubing or a shortened ball point pen spring. You need something that will keep some pressure on it thru the full range of suspension travel.

guver
03-21-2006, 08:54 AM
thanks, I may try the pens spring. the stock ones have a tiny lip on them and are a bit longer.

guver
03-26-2006, 03:36 PM
It was my diff gears stripping. I cannot seem to keep diff gears and shafts in these things from breaking,,,

Is everyone using the ball diff and the aluminum shafts with good luck? I can't imagine a brushless motor,,,

guver
03-31-2006, 01:56 PM
I am nearly fed up with the MQ, I break something nearly every run. Usually in the rear diff area. pinion gear, spur, motor pinion, side gear shattered, outdrive, ect.

I cannot imagine how anyone can use a brushless motor with some power in these,,,,

Duster_360
04-01-2006, 06:37 PM
Seems like most are running BLs in the MQ SE which has the ball diffs and the alum CVDs. I lost heart in mine - my complaint was I couldn't steer it, it was all over the place like it had a mind of its own. I just put it in a box and forgot it for more than a year.

After deciding its was leaving or going to be run, tried a set of the graphite knuckles and wow - diff truck, like I had been given a new one! I'm having a great time with it now trying to make up for lost time. I won't spend any more on this one though, any upgrades will be going into the MQ SE. DTX made up for a lot of the MQ's shortcomings with this one fromwhat I can tell and read. Nowhere near the probs with it.

guver
04-05-2006, 12:01 AM
Here's an update on the 12 celll MQ, It is very fast and even the run-time is quite good. the stock motor runs fine on 12 cells and isn't getting hot either. As far as a wheelie machine is a failure though. Too much weight on the front-end.

I am using a little airplane/boat esc , even the stock outdrives have been holding up ok, 6 runs or so so far.

The wheelie truck is back on the road after setting (not knowing what to do) It will now flip over backwards at will as long as the traction is decent.

specs.

low gearing, 5S lipo for 21 volts, stock motor and wheelie bar set.

I have yet to run it out in the open, but pretty impressed with the wheelies now, with the stock batts it wouldn't even get the front end up hardly.

cjg
04-07-2006, 10:04 PM
It was my diff gears stripping. I cannot seem to keep diff gears and shafts in these things from breaking,,,

Is everyone using the ball diff and the aluminum shafts with good luck? I can't imagine a brushless motor,,,
I've run my MQ with gp1100, more powerful motor, and have never broken a stock plastic outdrive shaft or stripped a gear. Mine will do wheelies off the line. Did you try shimming your gears inside your diff? I think that is what has kept mine from stripping, more solid gear mesh.

guver
04-08-2006, 02:40 AM
No, haven't tried that, the tolerances are a bit to be disired,,,,lots of slop and out of round. I did have a set that was (stripping/slipping) the mesh was coming undone. I mostly break the shafts and split the side gears from the shaft inside of it.

kurrz
04-30-2006, 02:59 PM
Could someone suggest a good brushless set up for the MQ. I am sick of it sitting around and I have been wanting to use it but, rather than buy a esc for it I want to go brushless. P.S. I'm on a budget. Thanks

kurrz
05-01-2006, 06:45 PM
Anyone?

Duster_360
05-13-2006, 11:16 PM
I would use a Golden Horizon 3600, with a mamba 25a esc and a good 20C lipo. I would also buy the castle link that lets you set the esc up from a PC. The latest software version available for the esc is a must have. The GH motors have same motor shaft size and you can use MQ Stock pinions which takes care of a potentially big prob with this conversion.

This is the exact setup I've just about completed for my MQ SE. It has ball diffs and alum CVDs. I'm running this setup in my Vendetta too, but with a Cool Red 3500 heli BL motor. That setup has a lot of time on it and its been solid, awesome 30min runtimes.

Cost around $150 excluding batt.

kurrz
05-14-2006, 07:32 AM
Thanks for the reply duster. Jamie from starluck has set me up. Do you think ball diffs are a must?

Duster_360
05-16-2006, 09:29 PM
You're in great shape then. I'm getting ready to try it out, but its a MQ SE and it comes with ball diffs. Won't be much help I'm afraid. What kv motor did you buy?

Guys with the higher kv BL motors say ball diffs are pretty much a must. I'd go ahead and try the gear diffs - might want to use low power settings and watch on throttle landings. Might be worth the time to check them out (maybe shim if needed) before you try. Properly shimmed will have a better chance of holding up. If they are way out, extra BL power will just strip them.

cooleocool
06-08-2006, 02:42 PM
Hey guys,

I don't mean to butt in or anything, but I am having some problems with my MQ. It does not work for some odd reason. I charge a battery and plug it in. Then I turn my radio on and then the switch on the truck. It stears for a second (some times) and then it just stops. No esc lights, no servo movement, nothing. Some times it even goes nuts and starts stearing on its own and the throttle glitches from off, to full speed. Almost like glithcing. Anyone have any ideas as to what is wrong. I wanted to get it out today to put around with since my other trucks are broke and now I can't. Please help!


Thanks,



-Tom

guver
06-08-2006, 02:54 PM
sounds like a connection on battery, esc or esc to rx connection.

cooleocool
06-08-2006, 02:59 PM
Okay, I'll check those. It happened after a hard landing when I was jumping it so that could be it. I hope it is anyway...

cooleocool
06-08-2006, 03:08 PM
Hmm... When I turn the switch on and off the servo twitches to the left until it gets to full lock left. Then if I move the wheels back to the right and do the same thing with the switch the servo slowly goes back to the left. It's almost like it's not getting a signal from the radio. Weird...

guver
06-08-2006, 03:09 PM
Yep, seems like a radio problem.

cooleocool
06-08-2006, 03:29 PM
Well guess what it was? The stupidest thing ever lol. I feel like such a newb lol (been driving RC cars since before I can remember, but have been into the hobby rc's since 2000. I raced back then...). The transmitter battery light was blinking. Geesh... The last thing I check after trying new x-tals, receivers, and such. What I did was I put the x-tal from my radio into a Futaba since they are pretty much the same thing and it worked. That's when I knew.

I'm not really up to speed on mini stuff though. What kind of non-lipo batteries are you guys running and what kind of runtimes? I have two of the stock batteries because I got one free with the truck, but I want a better battery that will carry its voltage through out the run like the GP3700's I use in my 1:10 trucks. I also want more runtime. How are those new Reedy packs that I see advertized in RCCA?

djbodies
06-09-2006, 07:17 PM
Can we change to RC18 diff, drive shaft, and spur to MQ?

kurrz
06-09-2006, 08:07 PM
Well guess what it was? The stupidest thing ever lol. I feel like such a newb lol (been driving RC cars since before I can remember, but have been into the hobby rc's since 2000. I raced back then...). The transmitter battery light was blinking. Geesh... The last thing I check after trying new x-tals, receivers, and such. What I did was I put the x-tal from my radio into a Futaba since they are pretty much the same thing and it worked. That's when I knew.

I'm not really up to speed on mini stuff though. What kind of non-lipo batteries are you guys running and what kind of runtimes? I have two of the stock batteries because I got one free with the truck, but I want a better battery that will carry its voltage through out the run like the GP3700's I use in my 1:10 trucks. I also want more runtime. How are those new Reedy packs that I see advertized in RCCA?
Go to cheapbatterypacks.com and look up these packs cbp 1150's or gp 1100's. You'll like these alot more and pep up your quake.

cooleocool
06-09-2006, 08:22 PM
Thanks! Do you know of any good brushed motors that speed it up and still get longer runtimes (with better batteries of course) than the stocker? Are they much work?

Thanks!

guver
06-10-2006, 02:32 AM
The vendetta motor is faster than the MQ

cooleocool
06-10-2006, 02:39 AM
Okay, I took her outside to my track. I need new batteries LOL. How are those IB 1200's?

As for the motor... Would the Vendetta motor have less torque though. I need more of that too... My track is a slightly mod oval. I still do not have any jumps on the track but my huge middle jump is in. I was suprised at how well the MQ jumps. Especally off that! It did well on my track too! I think I'll be getting some knoby tires for it some time soon!

Thanks guys!

guver
06-10-2006, 02:42 AM
The 1200's will be far better than the stock nicad. I am not sure if the motor has less tork. It is probably just identical except for fewer turns, there's another faster one also callled VR-3, same thing just fewer turns. The knobby tires are a bit better and not quite so stiff either.

cooleocool
06-10-2006, 02:53 AM
If they have lower turns then they'll have less torque then . Hmm... I wonder if gearing down would help at all while still speeding it up a bit.

I'm going to try to compile a list of a few things to do to my truck. Then I'll buy it all. Right now, my Mini Quake is pretty low on the totem pole as far as funds go because it runs pretty well right now. It seems like a fairly bullet proof truck. I've been doing some harsh things to it over the past five or so months I've had it. Neat little truck!

cooleocool
06-10-2006, 05:06 PM
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/4703/miniquakejune1020060084fa.jpg

That's my stock Mini Quake out by my track!

gigacrush
06-25-2006, 03:16 PM
hey are you guys having any problems with the center shafts bending were the spur ataches. ive myself have bent 2 center shaft.im kinda worried about puttting the carbon center shaft seing that im bending the alluminum alot.

guver
06-25-2006, 03:37 PM
No, not me. I break lots of side gears and pinion gear set and outdrive shafts.

cooleocool
10-29-2006, 05:25 PM
Well, I managed to break a couple of things finally! Two front knuckles, and a couple of rear body posts. I've been trying to break it though. To see what the weak points are. Duratrax replaced all of the parts under their guarantee!

Duster_360
10-29-2006, 09:19 PM
Replaced my plastic knucks with the graphite ones - have not broken one since. The strg is more precise too since graphite has a lot less flex to them than the plastic ones do.

cooleocool
10-31-2006, 10:08 PM
Would the graphite be brittle? I love to jump my MQ off anything and everything I can. I was thinking about getting some aluminum knuckles for the front or something.

Duster_360
11-02-2006, 01:04 PM
Actually, not these - they don't seem to be pure graphite, they're prob mixed with something else. I caught the corner of my garage at WOT with the left front and sent my MQ into a long series of cartwheels. Figured that had to break something, but when I looked, nice surprise, nothing broken. I do have a set of spares just in case.

My plastic ones were so wimpy, they were letting the weight of the truck affect strg - it was all over the place. I was ready to give up and someone suggested trying graphite knucks - made all the diff!

I can buy a lot of graphite for the price of the alum knucks. Besides, they will break to if you hit them right.

cooleocool
11-02-2006, 08:37 PM
Okay... I hadn't checked on the prices of them yet. Since they're cheaper I might as well go with those when I need them.

Duster_360
11-02-2006, 09:41 PM
A set of the dtx alum knucks will set you back $72 at TH. The graphite kuncks are $19.98 a set. Actually they are more expensive than I remembered, but still I can buy almost 4 graphite sets for the price of the alum knucks. I paid only $125 for my complete MQ at Ultimate.

Suspect somebody like Atomic or GPM or one of those guys in Hong Kong have the alum knuck cheaper than TH, but with S&H prob a wash.

cooleocool
11-03-2006, 07:34 PM
Wow... That's a chunk of change for the ally parts... Just for a mini too.

Duster_360
11-04-2006, 02:59 PM
I've been happy with the graphite. They solved my strg issues and seem to be stronger than stock plastic. I wouldn't make the investment in the alum knucks, they are too expensive and from a few comments I've read, prone to break as well. Just because you have alum knucks, its no guarantee you won't break them. $72 will buy a lot of other hopups!

cooleocool
11-04-2006, 04:17 PM
Yeah... I just cannot believe the price for up-grades on these little things.

GoofyTexan
12-24-2006, 11:16 AM
What bodies will fit on this thing (got one for chritsmas) Will any 1/18 scale work?

Duster_360
12-24-2006, 12:22 PM
Most will fit, but some require more work that others - Hummer shell needs longer body posts for example. You can use pretty much any rc18t, m18, mrs4, mini-t body.

One hot one right now is the crowd pleaser shell for the MLST - going to be my next.

GoofyTexan
12-24-2006, 01:50 PM
what about brushless system

Duster_360
12-24-2006, 05:00 PM
Brushless setups don't take any more space than stock, matter of fact usually less since the esc is smaller (mamba25). BL motor is about same size as stock unless its a mamba (smaller in diameter and shorter) or Hyperion motor - same diameter roughly but longer. Still any shell that will fit a stock MQ is going to fit a BL equipped MQ.

GoofyTexan
12-25-2006, 10:51 PM
No that's not what i ment.........

I'm past the body question and asking a new one :-)

What kind of brushless set up should I use and battery?

Quinton
12-25-2006, 10:57 PM
Cheap bodies on tower for them under the deal of the day.

trxcrazy345
12-26-2006, 11:22 AM
are the mini quakes any good they look like junk

Quinton
12-26-2006, 05:56 PM
I sold mine after I saw how durable the rc18t is

Duster_360
12-27-2006, 01:43 PM
No that's not what i ment.........

I'm past the body question and asking a new one :-)

What kind of brushless set up should I use and battery?

The prob of BL in a MQ is the weird gear pitch MQ uses (48 pitch metric) and how hard it is to find in 2mm shaft size for a mamba motor (impossible). Hot ticket is to buy the mamba 25 esc and get a 2.3mm shaft bl motor to run. Hyperion 5000, GH 4700 or GH3600 motors are a few that are 2.3mm. This lets you use the stock pinions.

My MQ-SE runs a GH3600 with a 1500 2 S lipo. DualSky lipos fit perfect, like they were made for the MQ, check 2DOGRC on the lipos. Check Bishop Power Products for these bl setups and more.

GoofyTexan
12-30-2006, 12:21 AM
The prob of BL in a MQ is the weird gear pitch MQ uses (48 pitch metric) and how hard it is to find in 2mm shaft size for a mamba motor (impossible). Hot ticket is to buy the mamba 25 esc and get a 2.3mm shaft bl motor to run. Hyperion 5000, GH 4700 or GH3600 motors are a few that are 2.3mm. This lets you use the stock pinions.

My MQ-SE runs a GH3600 with a 1500 2 S lipo. DualSky lipos fit perfect, like they were made for the MQ, check 2DOGRC on the lipos. Check Bishop Power Products for these bl setups and more.

Thanks man, His gonna hook me up with a fast set up......

Duster_360
12-30-2006, 05:10 PM
If you are running gear diffs (rtr), stay under 5000kv. When you go over that, the increased torque will kill gear diffs in short order and you'll have to buy set of ball diffs. If you have an SE, you're set, get anything you like. MQ gets hard to control at high speeds unless you have advanced radio gear ans can reduce strg sensitivity by dialing out some exp.

Mine is plenty fast on a GH3600. If I want crazy fast, I just put 3S 11.1v lipo in and go fast.

GoofyTexan
12-31-2006, 09:53 AM
I dont' have the SE , what diff should I get? Please send towerhobbie link....

Duster_360
12-31-2006, 12:52 PM
These -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKPB7

Feedback on one18th.com shows gear diffs are ok up to about 5000kv bushless. Above that, gear diffs show diminishing life. Install an 8000 and they're toasted almost immediately.

toddone
01-12-2007, 05:39 PM
i have a quick question. i just picked up a mini q from ebay for my son and it came with the charger and 2 batteries. one is a 600 nicad and the other is an 1100 nihm. can i charge both of those batteries with the factory charger and how long do they usually take?? the charger is just a powerpack tpye that plugs in.

Duster_360
01-13-2007, 08:01 PM
The 600 is really a poor batt, or at least the ones I've seen. They act like they havebeen sitting on the shelf for too long and have diminished capacity. the 1100s have been better, but the one I bought was disappointing - others say theirs was better than the one I got. The wall charger they supply has 200ma output and can charge both types - the 600 will take 600/200 = 3hr and the 1100 will need 5.5hrs.

You will be surprised at the diff a quality battery made of quality cells will make. But decent batts also need a better charger. An entry level charger will run $50 or so but will charge the 1100 in a little more than an hr at 1amp charging rate. Try cheapbatterypacks.com and if you buy, make sure to specify they're for MQ - CBP knows what that takes to fit right.

toddone
01-20-2007, 05:19 PM
thanks. ordering knuckles instead of batteries. my son ran into our planter out front. sheared that and both the controll arms. pretty quick for a lil truck. im pretty happy and so is he.

Duster_360
01-20-2007, 08:02 PM
Yeah, MQ is fast enough when you hit something, it will break. At least the pieces that usually break are not expensive. Try the graphite knucks - they are a lot stiffer and I've found them to be stronger.

PS - Get spares, lol.

cooleocool
01-24-2007, 04:47 PM
I really need to get a better battery for mine. Mine was bought a little over a year ago and I was able to get two 600mah packs with it. Tower Hobbies had a special so they threw in the extra one. It was actually a gift to me for Christmas and when I opened it I asked about the extra pack since I didn't see it. Apparently Tower didn't send me one, so I talked to Tower and they sent me one! Not the best, but two is better than one I suppose... I've broken a couple of knuckles (replaced under the warranty), two rear body posts (again replaced), and one upper a-arm which I had to buy myself, but heck, they were only a few bucks!

Duster_360
01-24-2007, 10:20 PM
I was amazed at how much diff a gp1100 made in mine. It made it faster and gave me better run time. I've also charged mine about 200+ times and althiugh capacity has decreased, I'm still getting almost 10min run times.

Try cheapbatterypacks.com - GP cells seem to be most robust in the amount of abuse they will take. IB have higher capacity but need more respect. Ellites look even better due to their imtermidate price, but haven't been around long enough to develop a reputation. They look good on paper. Be sure to let CBP know they are for MQ - no end caps and wire run to the side of the pac.

Now all that said, lipo takes everything to an even higher level.

guver
01-24-2007, 10:34 PM
Haha, couldn't agree more. My 1100 generic was a huge improvement over the stock 600, and then a 1700 2S lipo was even better. Go lipo!!

Se_12alty
01-26-2007, 06:54 PM
Hey guys I need to find a way to mount my micro servo better. The dbl sided take sucks and after just playing in my home it starts to peel. I was thinkinig about getting this from tower >>>DTX Servo Mount (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMM4&P=7)

but on 1/18th.com they say the vendetta servo mount works. can i get some suggestions or ideas. thanks guys.

Duster_360
01-26-2007, 08:51 PM
Dbl sided tape is not as strong as real servo tape if its that foam type tape. If you try servo tape, make sure you wipe the chassis and the servo with rubbing alcohol to remove any grease that will interfere with the tape/stick. Try not to get fingerprints on it after you wipe it down. Some swear by servo tape, I've had mixed results with it.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKC60&P=7

Second option, glue it in place with something like silicone glue that will let you remove it if you need to. Next option - the vendetta servo holdown. The only pia here is you need to countersink the screws that go thru the chassis, but you need to do that with anything fastening thru the chassis.

I epoxied servo in place in my rtr which is permanent. It sure works, but will be a major pain if the servo ever fails. If there's room on the outside side of the servo, there's no reason the mounts you linked shouldn't work.

cooleocool
01-27-2007, 02:38 AM
I like 3M's double sided tape... The outdoor stuff. As long as your surfaces are clean, that stuff is great!

Duster_360
01-27-2007, 12:00 PM
I've been using Scotch HD mounting tape (#114). It was fine with rtr servo but when I went to stronger servos - hs225 or 81 - you could see servo move when you turned the wheels.

I'll look for the outdoor tape and give that a try too. Thanks

Se_12alty
01-29-2007, 01:45 PM
Duster and Cooleo thanks. I've used it but guess my double sided tape is old b/c it would stick good then 5 minutes later i plug in a batt and run it then the servo's loose again. So i had some double sided carpet tape and it worked like a champ. I also dabbed a drip on the corners to secure it a bit more. after running i hit my car tire and snapped a "A" arm. gotta order some tings from tower.

cooleocool
02-05-2007, 06:19 AM
Well, I broke a lower front arm yesterday... I was jumping my jump and took it on an angle and smacked a door frame. I ended up CA gluing it. Then I used a zip tie to reinforce it and put a groove in the arm so that the zip tie wouldn't bind with the arm mount. Does anyone make aluminum upper and lower arms?

Duster_360
02-06-2007, 10:38 PM
There are lots of alum arms made for the MQ, but anyone I know whos is using them is finding they still bend. Everyone is making them out of soft alum and thats doesn't stop the bending. It takes 7075-T6 to make them strong enough that they won't bend, but I don't see anyone using even 6061 much less 7075.

There are 2 diff kinds - one works only with stock knuckles and the other works only with alum knucks - each has a diff way to capture the ball in the arm.

This shop sells a few kinds - http://www.thetoyz.com/index.lasso

cooleocool
04-05-2007, 10:56 AM
So I take it that most other 1/18th bodies will fit the MQ correct?

diesel
04-08-2007, 04:02 AM
Most other 18th truck bodies will fit, but most will require a little modding. The 18t bodies are the closest, but you'll still have to trim out the wheel wells a little more than usual. HPI used to make 150mm truck bodies for the Micro RS4.........if you can find em on ebay, they're a nice fit. The MLST bodies are too long. Check out one18th.com and view the galleries for some ideas.

As far as the alloy arms, GPM is the only company that makes them. They are the all the same, it's the knuckles that are different, but if you order the "stock" replacement knuckles (meaning the alloy knuckles that will work with the stock arms) you will be able to use them with either stock or alloy arms as the alloy ball is able to be removed from the knuckle. I have been running the GPM knuckles and arms for more than a year now and I love them. The lower screws do strip out on extremely hard crashes which trashes the knuckle, but at 5 bucks a piece (and the stripped screws were completely a result of my own stupidity......hitting large immovable objects at extremely high speeds) they are well worth it.

GT Freak
04-13-2007, 09:16 PM
Well,sold the COMPLETE mini-t setup for $250 and ordered a MQ and charger for $184. cnat wait... new found fun for me. :D

GT Freak
04-23-2007, 05:26 PM
My MQ came. also ordered a charger and tossed the junk RTR charger. so far, ive had 2 good runs with it. And after some "customizing"...:D

Duster_360
04-23-2007, 10:25 PM
Good choice on charger, it was my 1st and I'm still using it when I need a second charger to get charging done (Emaxx).

I've worn out one MQ - have had to replace everything on it and in it just about, they are such a blast. I bought an MQ-SE and put a brushless setup in it and the old MQ has been pretty much retired. MQ's are a blast.

GT Freak
04-25-2007, 09:43 AM
Well, yesteraday i found out my MQ doesnt like the track scene. he broke a front knuckle. :( gives me a reason to upgrade.

cooleocool
04-25-2007, 11:38 AM
Those knuckles don't hold up too well, that's for sure. If you've still got that parts warranty, use it... That's what I did and now I have a bunch of spare parts. They send you a whole package of the broken part. Now if that was only for more than a year... :D

GT Freak
04-25-2007, 11:52 PM
how does the warrity work??

AznJunkie
04-26-2007, 11:00 PM
how does the warrity work??

Durtrax offers a 1-year warranty on some of the plastic parts when you first purchase the car/truck. Those parts are called “Stress-Tech (http://www.duratrax.com/cars/dtxd13-vendetta/dtxd13-parts.html#stresstechanchor) ” part. So if those parts break within 1-year of you owning the car/truck, you can send them back to Duratrax for free replacement.

Duster_360
04-27-2007, 10:45 PM
Thanks to the internet, DTX let me fax them a copy of my receipt (needed to prove it was purchased new and the date) - they put the stress trk warrantied parts I had broken in the mail that day without having to wait.

Some of what I have broken they asked me to send back, most broken parts, they did not want them back (I guess they had seen enough, lol).

GT Freak
04-28-2007, 10:21 AM
how did u do this"fax" with dtx. i have a friend with a fax machine, and would like to do that myself.

GT Freak
05-14-2007, 08:01 PM
Well, got my knucks and batt. only took a week to get here. lolol

cooleocool
05-15-2007, 12:11 AM
Isn't that great! I wish I still had my warranty for mine. Oh well... The parts for these trucks are cheap anyway... :)

GT Freak
05-15-2007, 06:46 AM
Had fun yesterday. ran at a local construction site. dust everywhere, but oh, so fun.

cooleocool
05-15-2007, 09:41 AM
I haven't gotten my MQ outside yet this year... Have to do that soon!

GT Freak
05-15-2007, 03:28 PM
geez, i may have to lower my pinion by 2. motor was getting a BIT warm as was the pack.

cooleocool
05-15-2007, 04:36 PM
A lower pinion would probably make it more fun anyway! They are a tad gutless in stock form. I still need to get a smaller one for mine.

cooleocool
05-16-2007, 10:39 PM
Took mine out for a run today :).

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/1710/miniquakemay162007001je5.jpg

http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/2277/miniquakemay162007002tj5.jpg

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/7599/miniquakemay162007003sr9.jpg

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/7880/miniquakemay162007004op4.jpg

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/4063/miniquakemay162007005lz0.jpg

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/1088/miniquakemay162007006rt3.jpg

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/5140/miniquakemay162007007xi1.jpg

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/9374/miniquakemay162007008tt3.jpg

http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/1164/miniquakemay162007009tb3.jpg

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/3616/miniquakemay162007010jw9.jpg

GT Freak
05-21-2007, 12:08 PM
Heres my Brand new MQse. body was "tinted" with pactra window tint. i liked the single instead of the bar light look. Then while i was at the HS, the owner is selling me a full set of vendetta elects for $60. How cool is that??:D

GT Freak
06-04-2007, 12:30 PM
There putting in a new gas line in my 'hood, so my MQ(rtr) is gettin a great workout.

GT Freak
06-10-2007, 12:56 PM
:teacher: For those with the RTR version, having the on-off switch flopping around is a pain. well, i found the fix, check it out.

cooleocool
06-12-2007, 11:36 PM
Haha... should probably do that myself. The switch just kind of hangs out from the front passenger wheel well!

GT Freak
06-19-2007, 05:30 PM
Well, after it rained here, just HAD to give my truck a "mud bath" heres a couple pics

cooleocool
07-12-2007, 10:19 PM
Looks like someone had some fun! Seems like the MQ would be a little guttless for mud. Did you buy a smaller pinion gear? I still have to get one for mine.

Duster_360
07-13-2007, 09:30 PM
I just use dbl sticky tape - 3M mounting tape - and put the switch where ever I want it - usually on the side of the stock rx. When I change to FM setup, I usually stick it on the batt plate. I've cut the windows out for cooling so its not a big deal to get to it.

I had one get ripped off flopping around loose - was a pia to fix, so mine get stuck down somewhere to keep em out of harms way.

GT Freak
08-24-2007, 11:51 AM
Well, GAVE my ex gf's dad the ROLLER i had. hope he enjoys it. :)

GT Freak
09-16-2007, 12:05 PM
http://www.rccaraction.com/Media/News/IFMAR35.jpg

hope this happens

cooleocool
12-15-2007, 08:09 AM
Man, I haven't been on here in ages! Well only a few months, but still- it has definitely been a while! So many things have changed. I sold my Mini Quake and bought a Mini Quake SE. Then I installed a Jwerks BL system. :)

Didn't think something so small could go so fast! :cool:

These were from before I cleaned up the wiring and such:

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/2830/miniquakesebl009tk0.jpg

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/25/miniquakesesunriseoctobzn3.jpg

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/3460/miniquakesesunriseoctobjg2.jpg

I still have yet to paint the body.

cooleocool
01-05-2008, 09:12 AM
Don't everyone all post at once, LOL!

Got the body done. I don't like fancy paint jobs, so I kept it simple, as always. Came out pretty well! :)

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/4211/miniquakesebljanuary120ai6.jpg

GT Freak
01-21-2008, 07:37 AM
wow, nice job. time to go "snow running" i c. may b selling my MQ soon.

tekone
04-27-2008, 01:56 AM
so with a brushless set up what is the best gear combo?

tekone
04-27-2008, 02:14 AM
one more quick question. does anyone know why they discontinued the se version and are they planing on coming out with a new version?

cooleocool
07-04-2008, 09:05 AM
Thanks GT.

I'm not sure why they discontinued the SE version. To be honest, I'm kind of glad that they did due to the fact that I managed to get mine for a mere $99.99! :)

Lil Chevy
07-13-2008, 09:18 PM
where do they sale the SE version...

Lil Chevy
07-13-2008, 09:20 PM
Here is my daugters Mini


81026

cooleocool
07-17-2008, 06:45 PM
I'm not sure where you could find an SE version. You might be able to find some on eBay.

That Hummer body looks pretty cool.

kurrz
12-07-2008, 12:41 PM
Well finally dusted off the MQ and put in a new novak xrs. But I noticed it seems to run faster in rev, just like it did with the stock esc. Any suggestions?

GT Freak
01-29-2009, 07:28 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bilp_9TLqRY
what the mini-quake looks like in a n-mq version