Building myself a nex boat.

[Chilly]

Got started building this thing about a week a go, but could not find the time to post any pics until now. Just wanted to let you guy´s know what´s happening over here in Sweden during winter. This thing is going to be powered by a Husqvarna 42cc, tuned to about 4-5 hp.
Surface piercing driveline with a x670 at the back end. The empty hull, without gear in it, weighs in at about 10 pounds. Lenght just under 58", so I think it will at least move quite nicely. Here are some pics.

[Chilly]

Another shot

[Chilly]

And another...

[Chilly]

Another...

[Chilly]

And last one!

[CFRACR]

Looks like a big Wild Thing, close to a Seducer too! :D
Keep it up so we can see that thing finished with some action shots.

[Chilly]

Yep, gonna get some new pics up later today, so you all can see it with the decking on too. The glue is curing as I´m writing this.

[Chilly]

So, here´s some new ones. See how I redesigned the decking? The plans state that the deck is to be completely flat, but I curved it some, makes it look a lot nicer, imho....

[Chilly]

Actually, I have no idea as to what boat this is! I got the plan from a fellow boater here in Sweden, but he´s, originally from UK. He stated that the plans are originating in the States, but that´s pretty much all I´ve got on it. Anyway, here´s another shot. One more to come after this one!

[Chilly]

And, this is the last one for today...

[rc10gtisthebest]

Looking good. I must agree that the curved deck looks a lot better.

-Todd

[Chilly]

Yeah, I think so too. And, if someone was wondering, the deck is not glued when the pics were taken, just clamped/taped down to check the fit, and give me an idea of how it will look. And of course, to show you guys how it looks! :)

[Watercadet]

That does look like a wildthing... what size/kind of wood it that? Keep up the pics.
Adam

[Chilly]

Yeah, but the wildthing does not have the flat deck I was talking about, does it?
The wood I´m using is 4mm pine plywood for everything but the stringers, I have gone with 10mm ply for those.
Anyway, here´s a couple of pics of the boat built strictly by the plans.

[Chilly]

Another one. These pics are not of my boat, if someone was wondering.

[Doubledog]

This guy is insane ! :)

Wonderful work you're doing. Its always good to see a project from beginning to end. Keep the thread alive with updates.

Ron O ! Whats going on with the hydro?

[Chilly]

Hey Doubledog! Thanks, I´ve always liked to call myself a little challenged, but insane has a nice ring to it also...=)
He, he...=)

[CFRACR]

Looks pretty close to a wild thing. You up sized the plans though, so it could be called whatever you want to be.

Looking good, your moving right along. Looks like at that pace you'll be finished before you can run it maybe. :eek:

Keep up the progress reports :D

[Chilly]

This particular model will be named "SheDevil", on account of my girlfriend... :) That´s what she want´s it to be called, and I just go along with it, cause I´ve got this wicked paintscheme in my head on that theme... :)
It sure has to be ready soon, I´ve got at least two more boats to build this winter, so I´m pushing it a bit, just not to hard so I´ll make mistakes from stressing it.

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, thats a great looking boat. I want to build a large wood mono and yours looks great. Watercadet and CFRACR say that it looks similar to a Wild Thing. I think that I can buy those plans and scale them up.

[ejp]

WOW, I hope my building goes as smoothly as yours. Any advise?:D

[Chilly]

Chilly, thats a great looking boat. I want to build a large wood mono and yours looks great. Watercadet and CFRACR say that it looks similar to a Wild Thing. I think that I can buy those plans and scale them up.

Yeah, of course you can! But as I mentioned before, the decking is not like that on the plans, there is no curve in it. Not an hard task to fix, I can post pics of how I´ve done it if you want to.


WOW, I hope my building goes as smoothly as yours. Any advise?

Well, all I can say is thank´s, and for advise I´ll tell you take your time. Think over every step of the building before doing it twice, and then think it over again, just to not make any mistakes that you can´t fix. Other than that, I can´t really say all to much, since this is only my second boat I´m building.

[Chilly]

Up for some new pics? I´ve just taken the clamps and tape of the hull, that was holding down the deck for the epoxy-resin to cure. I think this boat is going to look awesome!

[Chilly]

One from the side, so the curvature of the deck is showing...

[Chilly]

I also got the fueltanks in there, these will be connected with some fuel-lines, and vents. There will be a fillingvalve incorporated in this build at a later stage, and the tanks will then be moved to a better location closer to the CG. As they are now, they are located about 4" in front of the CG, not too much at least. Bet hey, who knows, I might like the increased speed from getting the boat higher on plane as the fuel burns away..=) Anyway, here you see the tanks. They are originally waterbottles made bay extruded aluminium, and I updated them with some fuelproof seals and they are not painted on the inside.

[Doubledog]

The lines are very much like one of my favorite boats.... Seaducer.

Have a look.

Seaducer home page (http://www.seaducerboats.com/home.htm)

[Chilly]

Yeah, I guess you are right! I think that´s a good thing, don´t you?
I mean, the design is proven fast, and I like the looks too!

[Doubledog]

No complaints here.

Do you plan on laying it in epoxy ?

[Chilly]

Yep, gonna lay at least 2 layers of woven glass-cloth over the whole outside. That will give a glassing of about 1mm thickness, and bonded to the wood, I think that will be enough. All the joints are glassed also on the inside, and the keel and any other sharp edges will have one layer extra of glassing.

[rc10gtisthebest]

chilly, where did you get the wood from?

Thanks,
Todd

[Chilly]

From a local builder-supply. Got it for cheap, taxfree, since my pal has his own company. About 15 bucks a sheet...

[ejp]

I really like this tread. I am building a wild thing. It looks almost just like this one. Thanks for showing all the steps. Also, thanks for some tips.

[Chilly]

Nemas problemas ejp, I´m doing it for the fun of it, and I like to be able to help out. Can you get some pics out here from your build? Post them in this thread if you want, I would love to see some pics of other boats!
Oh, and I want to make a correction! I didn´t pay 15 bucks a sheet for the ply, but only 10 bucks! And those sheets were 200 by 120 cm, that´s about 80 by 48 inches.

[Chilly]

By the way guy´s I have a question for you all! How about strakes in the bottom of the hull? There are none in my plan, do I need any? If so, how should they look, and where on the hull are they to be placed?

[Chilly]

Ok, some new pics for you all to enjoy! And hey, I´m in them today! Took the boat in for wighing today, and took the opportunity to get some pics of it as well.
The window is just a mockup in PS, to show what it will look like when it´s done.
Here goes...


From the side:

[Chilly]

Another from the side...

[Chilly]

Standing in front of it...

[BurnZ]

Sharp!

How heavy is it?

[Chilly]

About 11-12 pounds, and the weight with all the gear in it will be around 17-18 pounds I think. Is that much for a boat that is 57 inches long?

[BurnZ]

Dunno, just getting into large gassers. What power plant ya' using? What drive are ya using?

[Chilly]

Using a 42cc Husky, customized and ported/polished by myself, giving about 3-4HP at 12000 rpm. Surface piercing prop, x670 and single rudder.

[rc10gtisthebest]

Looking good, I am not to fond of the Window. I'd personally leave it off. But if you like it, leave it. It's not my boat...

-Todd

[Chilly]

Todd, the reason the window is there, is for splash-protection. So the main reason is not estethics, but funcionality. The engine kept stalling in my other boat, due to sucking in water. Don´t want that again, so I try this.

[Chris LaPanse]

Well, my 55" boat is 22lbs with a full tank, so if yours is 18-20, it is probably normal or even light. Looks really nice. It should scream.

[Chilly]

I sure hope it will scream Chris, and thank´s for the nice input. Anyone got a clue about if I should add some strakes to the bottom? Or do you think it will produce enough lift, and go up on plane without them?

[scorpien boats]

imo it looks way cooler than the seaducer!!

[rc10gtisthebest]

True, never thought of that.

-Todd

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, that is one fine looking boat! I like the window. I like the lines. Man, I've got to build one! That is awesome. Can you tell that I like it?

I've got a question about fiberglassing the hull-why???? I think that you're just going to add a lot of unecessary weight. When this subject comes up on www.intlwaters.com, nobody chooses to cover their boats with glass. It just adds too much extra weight.

I fiberglassed my little Dumas DV20. Its now built like a tank and, unfortunately, weighs just as much :( ! Don't do it! I think that if you've built the hull right and reinforced the correct joints with some glass cloth on the inside, you should be fine. Besides, I don't think that you're looking to go into some demolition derby with it :D !

[Chris LaPanse]

I would add some strakes. Every boat I own (and most that i've seen run) have them. My big gas one has two on each side, with the outer ones running all the way back, and the inner ones stopping about a foot short of the transom. Mine is a sport deep vee, however, and yours is different enough that I'm not positive all the same stuff applies. Anyone else got any ideas?

[Chilly]

First of all, thanks a lot for all the nice input from all of you again!
About the glassing.... Since I´m not going to be racing this thing against anything else than the ducks at the pond, or maybe my pals 20" nitro deep-v, the small amount of extra weight added by the glass won´t matter much to me. I DO like the thought of the extra strenght though, since those ducks can be pretty quick sometimes at short distances sideways across the water... Nah, what I mean is, that the strenght added is more worth to me than that extra weight bothers me.
And Chris, how should the strakes look? I´ve heard people talk about tapering them in one direction or the other, but I never understood why, and so on.
How should they look from the transom view. I made a quick drawing to illustrate what my question is about.
Also, should the strake be thinner towards the bow, or the same size all the way? And should they go all the way to the stern, or stop somewhere on the bow?
I´ll add some strakes to the boat, as soon as I get some info on these subjects. Thanks for all your help guys.

[rc10gtisthebest]

They need to look like the strake on the right. Also, they should be the same width the whole way. Most boats coming out now that I have seen have the strakes stopping a little before the bow.

-Todd

[Chilly]

rc10gtisthebest, thank you for that very precise answer. Going out in the garage right now, gonna add one strake to each side of the bottom. Or do you think I´ll need two on each side?

[dannyUAL767]

Definitely the strake on the right. That is just the way the strakes on my little DV20 look.

I understand your thinking on the fiberglass and the extra weight. There is no doubt that it will add a tremendous amount of strength and if done right, it won't add a bunch of extra weight. Just keep in mind that no matter what you may think about how much speed you want today, after you get that fine looking boat on the water, you're going to wish it would go just a bit faster ;) !

BTW, did I tell you that it looks like a million bucks?!

[Chilly]

He, thanks a lot dannyUAL767! A million bucks....nice, maybe I should put it up on ebay then? :D
Seriously, thanks for the compliment and on the fiberglass-issue, all I can say is that this is only one of three boats I´m building this winter. Trying out different things with different boats. Besides, I have to learn the hard way, I´ve always been like that..=) And the strakes, should I go with one or two on each side of the hull?

[97TRAKIN]

I say no strakes. Fine boat by the way.

[Chilly]

Ok, now I´m getting confused... 97TRAKIN, you say no strakes? Why? Give me the pro´s and cons of strakes. Everybody who´s got an opinion, or some facts, pitch in!

[Chris LaPanse]

I would say the benefits of strakes outweigh the downsides. First, it planes faster. Second, it rides higher out of the water at speed, creating less drag. Also, I agree with everyone - they need to look like the one on the right.

[Chilly]

Ok, so strakes it will be then. Just have to figure out a good way to construct them so they get straight and true. The tools I have just is not precise enough. Tips and idéas anyone? And, again, 1 or 2 at each side?

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, my DV20 has 2 on each side so that is what I would go with.

I've done some internet searching for wood to build boats and I've received some good site from this website and intlwaters.com threads. In one of them, they had some triangular shaped wood. Click on this and scroll down and you'll see it: http://www.lonestar-models.com/cgi-local/Order.pl.cgi.

It looks like 3/4" is as large as they carry but you may be able to get some of it somewhere else. I also think that Lone Star requires a minimum purchase of $25 worth of wood. If you're building 3 boats this winter, you may be able to use some of their products :D .

[Chilly]

Thanks a lot, danny! I´ll try there, and see if I can get an order. I think it will have to be loads more if I do order tho, since I´m a swede. The shipping would be gruesome...=) He, he...gonna see if there is anyone in Sweden who carrys something like this.

[rc10gtisthebest]

Another way you can do it,

Find the out what the angle (in degrees) the bottom of your hull is. Subtract that from 180*, then divide the result by 2. Once you get the answer, set a table saw (if you have one?) to the degrees that you found. Next, get a piece of square wood, set the stop on the table saw so that the wood will run straight. Then, cut it and you're good.

-Todd

[Chilly]

Sadly, I don´t have a table saw...=/ But, I´ve got it right anyway, the glue is curing right now. Thanks anyway!

[rc10gtisthebest]

Alright,Are you planning to taper them at the end?

-Todd

[BurnZ]

Do strakes kind of, in a way, help take the place of turn fins?

[Chilly]

Yeah, I´ll taper them at the stern-end, but I´ll let the go all the way to the transom, so no tapering in that end. Is this the wrong way to go? Oh, and I am going with 1 on each side....

[rc10gtisthebest]

Chilly, I am not sure whether or not to go all the way to the transom. I'll leave that to someone else.

Strakes (Chines) do help side to side movements ever so slightly, but you should always run a turn fin.

[Chilly]

Yeah, I´ll just leave them as they are now, and add fins and stuff as I need it. Thanks for all the help, gonne give you some pictures later today.

[ejp]

Hey, chilly did you have any luck. Can we see some pics?

[Chilly]

Yeah, sorry anout that! I got caught up in the garage last night, but here are some pics of those strakes! They are not finished yet in the picture, and the green stuff is fiberglass putty. looks like a lot, but there is only a thin layer left now...=) Ok, here goes!

[Chilly]

another view...

[Chilly]

and the last one...

[Doubledog]

If it runs as good as it looks, you might have a heck of a plug. Nothing like orrignality. :)

[Chilly]

Yep, that´s my thought too...My pal is almost killing me to get his hands on it to make a mold of it., I guess that will be step number 2 for this hull..=)

[BurnZ]

Why does the nose kind of round down on a seaducer? Aerodynamics, looks, etc...?

[scorpien boats]

thats a good question... thats the only reason I don't really like the seaducer... the bow rounds down.

[ejp]

The wild thing is the same way. My thoughts was to hold it to the water so it doesn't flip over. I don't know though.

[Chilly]

My guess is looks... A completely straight and flat deck looks REALLY strange, so rounding it down, or slanting it forward, or whatever you want to call it, was the easiest way possible of getting some life into the lines of the boat. Just my 2 cents...

[Doubledog]

It does add character.

[Chilly]

Yep, I like it, that´s for sure..

[Chilly]

Hi there guy´s! Been busy in the garge, where I´ve been trying out different things with these for a couple of day´s, hence the low activity in this thread. Anyways, here´s a pic of the completed tanks, with the fill-system in place. Only thing missing in the picture is a soda-bottle with a short fuel-line and a fitting on it, for the filling of the system. The fitting on the larger "T" is a quickrelease fitting, that is supertight and closed when there is not a male fitting inserted into it. Makes for a clean and easy refueling. The tank´s are gonna sit in the boat as shown before, one on each side of the enginebay.
On to the pic....

[suck my wake]

that looks preety pimpin what are the container from

[Chilly]

They are "sportbottles" or whatever to call them..Designed to hold fluids of any sort, wether it be fuels for a campingtorch, or water for a sporting thirsty man or whatever...=)

[scorpien boats]

My guess is looks... A completely straight and flat deck looks REALLY strange, so rounding it down, or slanting it forward, or whatever you want to call it, was the easiest way possible of getting some life into the lines of the boat. Just my 2 cents...

i agree,

but the seaducer's deck rounds down a little much for me... i like the sport deck.

by the way, chilly I like they way you made your deck :cool:

[Chilly]

Thank you, scorp, that´s nice to hear! The reason I did it that way, was because I didn´t like the looks of it before, and this just made this hull go from looking crap to looking sharp! Anyway, what boat is it in the picture you attached ?


Sorry to say, I don´t think there will be much work done to the boat this weekend....but, the reason why is really pleasant! I get to see my son, he´s going to be here all weekend! Nice...=)

[scorpien boats]

that is my dads 32' scorpion it has twin 502s and trs drives

[Chilly]

Nice...lovely piece of harware!

[Chilly]

By the way, is there anyone in here, who has some tips and pointer to give me about building myself a tuned pipe? I need some data, a guide to how to do it, kinda... The math is the problem for me, how do I calculate this thing? Any and all help is greatly appreciated (spelling?).
Dennis

[Chris LaPanse]

I would start with something too long, and slowly cut it down (the header, not the pipe) until it is just right. What RPM will that engine run? That is the biggest factor in the size of the pipe.

[Chilly]

Well, it´s a huskie, so I guess somewhere around 12000 rpm will be the top revs.. I have done some porting and stuff to it, so it should be able to pull it off. The hard part in my book, is to calculate the angles, lenghts and diameters of the cones and belly of the pipe. Anyone have any good "knowhow" for me?

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, I ordered my Okoume wood today :D . It cost me $105 shipped to my house for 4 sheets of 2ft X 4ft 1/8" Okoume ply and 4 sheets of 2ft X 4ft 1/16" Okoume ply. I would've liked to have had it cut a little longer but then the shipping charges would've really gone up :eek: ! I could still build a 57" long boat like yours by using two lengths of wood butted together (my Dumas SK Daddle 36" side skins [1/16" aircraft ply] are that way.) I'd like a boat about 52" for a Zenoah 260. On the other hand, I've got three 11cc nitro engines and a 45" mono would be perfect! I've got enough wood to build several :D !

[Chilly]

That´s great, Danny! I myself would have gone for the larger one, gasoline is so much easier to handle, and a lot cheaper! Good luck either way, and me myself has just got myself two new tanks, since I messed the first two up...but hey, at 4 bucks for both, I can afford it...=) There will be some new pics for you all to see in a couple of days, until then, I´ll just say this:
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, I'm having some real problems trying to open up the plans that you sent me. I had downloaded and installed Graphman and Winace but they seemed to be very user unfriendly. Do you have a recommendation. I really want to open and print out these plans so that I can start building when my wood arrives. Thanks.

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, I just spent the last hour and a half trying to download and install a DXF viewer to open your plans. I finally found one that would install but it wouldn't allow me to print :mad: . I then downloaded another one and it ended up being the same thing :mad: . Another one that I downloaded wouldn't install properly. And to make matters even worse, my cable modem internet service has slowed down to a crawl. I'm going to have to call the repair people back out. This isn't going well :( .

[Watercadet]

All you wanted to know and more about tuned pipes!
http://rcboat.com/myst1.htm
http://rcboat.com/myst2.htm
http://rcboat.com/myst3.htm
http://rcboat.com/myst4.htm
Adam

[Watercadet]

One more
http://rcboat.com/pipe.htm
Adam

[Chilly]

Danny, I used Autocad, and that worked like a charm...My best advice would be to get a tech on some company to do it for you, they more than often have a large scale printer to print them out on too!
Other than that, I can´t really help you from here, sorry... :/

Watercadet, thank´s a LOT!

[dannyUAL767]

My best advice would be to get a tech on some company to do it for you, they more than often have a large scale printer to print them out on too!

I think that I may be able to ask around at work next week after Christmas. I've also got a friend in that type of business. He lives in Baton Rouge, LA. My father-in-law is a recently retired Space Shuttle engineer. He may be able to help. He's coming here for Christmas. Thanks anyway, Chilly. At least you've got me pointed in another direction that will hopefully result in a nice set of plans :) .

[Chilly]

Man, your father-in-law is actually a rocket scientist?! Dude, that´s so cool!
Anyway, with your connections in the industrial world, I have no doubt you will have a really nice set of plans soon enough!

[dannyUAL767]

Yeah. My wife used to joke, "my daddy is a rocket scientist!" because he is :D !

Now I've got an engineering degree as well (Petroleum) but the last time I did any engineering "work" was when I took my last final exam at Louisiana State Universtiy (geaux tigers!) way back in Dec 1984 :eek: !

[Chilly]

He, he...I wish I had a rocket scientist in my family...man, I would have foced him to get me all sorts of cool stuff! Imagine what a small rocket engine would do to a RC-boat! =)

[Chris LaPanse]

I've thought about what a pair of Aerotech G64 (http://www.mouser.org/zia/launches/images/20030921/MouserRocket.jpg)'s would do to my Enforcer. I'm not quite brave enough to try it, though.

[Chilly]

He, he...just might try that with the 18 inch hull I have lying around...=)

[Chris LaPanse]

If you would, then you're crazy. They put out about 11lbs average thrust for 2 seconds, with a peak of 18lbs. That size hull would fly (literally) on one, much less 2. Still, that's what it's all about, right? Tiny, WAY overpowered boats?

[Chilly]

Yep, the only reason for doing it would be for sheer fun! (spelling?) And man, would that be a blast to see! (ok, a little pun intended...)

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, YGM!

[Chilly]

Danny, so do you! =)

[scorpien boats]

how is the boat comming Chilly????

[Chilly]

Well, I havent been doing any progress that you can see, really...=/ Mostly I´ve been figuring out the design for the hardware, and made some stuff for the engine. New throttle-wire and stuff... I need to whip out the glass and cover the boat tho, that job is due tonight, hopefully.

[Chilly]

Ah, made a pipe today... hopefully I have calculated the thing right too, so it works..=) Pics will come tomorrow.

[Chilly]

Weel, tomorrow seemed to be a bit further away...=/ No, to be honest, the camera has been tied up a bit, but finally, here are a few new pics!

Just laid the pipe out there, to check how the fit is going to be.

[Chilly]

Another angle.

[Chilly]

I know it´s a bit rough and all, but it will work. A lot of calculating was done to get this thing figured out, believe me...

[Chilly]

Well, this used to be a Huskie...cut down, refinished, customized, tuned out, painted. Now, what should I call this thing? Shame I don´t have a logger so I can measure rpm and stuff. Would have loved to get this thing dyno´d as well.

[Chilly]

Other side of Huskie... My mounts are a bit on the large scale, but hey, I´d rather have them too large and sturdy, than to small, and flimsy, or even worse as for my first engine....the mounts broke, and the boat got a nasty internal remodeling...=/

[scorpien boats]

I wish I could MAKE a pipe lol

jw, what did you make the pipe out of?

[Chilly]

Pipe is made out of 0,5mm steel. And calculating the pipe is really the hard part...And getting it to look nice, wich I did not do to well on...=) Shame..=/ Well, I´ll just make a new one later on. As for calculating, if you want to know how, send me a PM...

[scorpien boats]

lol i would need a welding machine too wouldn't I?

[Chilly]

Yes, you would..=) But if you know anyone with a welder and som skills (better than mine, preferably), you can do all the math, and then cut the pieces and bring them for him too weld up! Just a suggestion..=) If done right, the benefits of making you own pipe can be drastic increase of performance, since the pipe will be custom made for that specific engine rather than mass-produced for just a ballpark figure imaginary engine.

[BoatDoc]

i'm jealous, you're really making me miss my old workshop. if you're worried about the appearance of the pipe...did you think about bead blasting it? it would give it a pretty nice satin finish and take away some of the heat discoloration.

[Chilly]

Nah, I´ll just go the old fashion way and sand it by hand, and polish it...My main concern was really the welds. They look like a moon-landscape, but I´ll live with that. I mainly try out the hardest possible way to start with, if that fails, I can fall back on doing things the easy way..=)

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly
My friend was able to open up the first set of plans that you sent me back in the first part of December. He is going to print them out on a large plotter some time this week and send them to me. Maybe I'll be able to start work on this boat this month. Maybe I ought to finish the two boats that I'm still working on :D !

[Chilly]

Danny, that´s great news! I hope you get going soon, nice to see more of these builds later on! And now, for a special treat for my own boat...=)
THis I made from a lump of aircraft-grade aluminium. Started late last night, and got it done about an hour ago...

First, I made it look like this:

[Chilly]

Another shot...figured it out yet?

[Chilly]

Then, when I came in from the workshop today, this is what I had with me to take some pics of..

[Chilly]

The bearing-hous i took from my old Octura strut. Just cut the housing away from the skeg and strut itself.
Another shot...

[Chilly]

Last one, I promise..=) It´s kinda purdy, dont ya think? I think so...=)

[dannyUAL767]

Thats a nice looking stinger that you're making, Chilly ;) . I think that I'd give it a try if I had a hunk of aluminum.

My friend printed out the plans yesterday. He said that he'd try to get to the post office today or tomorrow to mail them to me. In any case, I should have them sometime next week. The weekend after that is a 3-day (15-17) weekend :D :D :D so I should be able to get some work done on this boat.

It seems very simple. Can you clarify a general question that my friend and I had: I know that the bulkheads and transom parts need to be exact and so do the stringers (motor mount pieces) but what about the sides, bottoms, and deck pieces? When I build Dumas boat kits, these parts are always oversize to allow a little "wiggle room." This gives you a little margin for error to cover the framing, etc. I was thinking about cutting those pieces slightly oversize and then sanding the extra off as needed. What was you experience with this when you built yours?

[Chilly]

Really good idea there. Cut them a little oversize, and sand them down, that would help out a lot. Especially if you are going to raise the deck like I did, because then the deck-sheets would be much smaller than they need to be. And most important, think about every step at least 4-5 times, to make sure you don´t make a mistake. And if in doubt still, ask here! =)

[dannyUAL767]

Especially if you are going to raise the deck like I did, because then the deck-sheets would be much smaller than they need to be.

Now this is something that I had already thought of :D ! A little bit of math will tell me exactly how much larger the deck needs to be.

How much oversize would you recommend that I cut the sides and bottoms? 1/4"? 1/2"?

[Chilly]

1/4 would be enough, I think. I did them around 1/4 larger myself, but the freeboards I did a little to small. But I got that sorted anyway..=)

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly,

Okay, 1/4" oversize it will be.

This boat seems so simple to construct. Once the parts are cut out, it doesn't look like it would take too long to put together.

Did you fiberglass your hull yet?

[Chilly]

Nah, havent glassed it yet. I want to make all the hardware first, then I drill, and then glass. Easier to drill now..=) I just redrill when the resin is cured, and I will have the holes in the wood all sealed up already..=)
And the boat IS really simple to construct. I whipped the finished woodie up in just a couple of days, what´s making me slow down is making hardware, and figuring the deck out. That took me a couple of nights to figure..=)

[rc10gtisthebest]

Chilly, that is a true piece of Art! It's so pretty.

-Todd

[Chilly]

Thank´s alot, Todd! And frankly, I agree..=)

[BoatDoc]

i really like that outdrive. it reminded me that i've got a few that are half built in my parts box...maybe i'll have to build a boat for them to go on :D

[Chilly]

Now that seems to me like a PLAN! :D

[Chilly]

By the way, Danny, are you going with the full stringer or split stringer version? Notice that the radiobox will be bigger with the split stringer version...

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, I noticed in the plans that the stringers were shorter than the entire length of the boat. Is this the split stringer that you are talking about? Maybe I'll have to look at the plans a little closer when I get home this evening.

[Chilly]

Nah, both stringers are shorter than the whole lenght. The foremost part of the boat have no stringers or bulkheads in it, thats why. But I recall there being two different setups for stringers. One of them is a little widened for a bigger radiobox, and also split at the radiobox bulkhead.

[Doubledog]

Talk about tallent.

I'm still waiting on Santa to bring the milling machine/lathe I wanted.

[Chilly]

You to DD? I wanted one of those combo-machines...small lathe, mill and drillpress, all in one. Nice little tool, and I can buy one for around 1000$ or sorts...

[Doubledog]

After seeing my buddies this summer I've wanted one since. They've got lathes at the Obi for $800. Like you, I'd rather have a combo machine. Wife has already threatened to put a bed in the the shop for me.

[Chilly]

Ask her if that´s a threat or a promise..=) Man, that´d be great! That way, just get up in the morning, get the coffee going, and then your at it! Great stuff...=)

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, I took another look at the plans and I see what you mean about the stringers. I don't need a ton of radio box room and I think the radio box in the plan is very big. I'd rather have stringers that extend all the way to the transom. I can do a little math and make the stringers longer. I will probably make a seperate radio box rather than a box that is one with the boat.

I noticed that the edges of the bulkheads are very short; less than an inch according to the plans. In plan "boat2" I can see that the sides are taller than the edge of the bulkheads with the exception of the transom. If this is correct, then it looks like I'll have to cut the sides to the exact size that the plans call for. I can't have any extra. According to the plans, it looks like the deck is glued right to the sides with no other support :confused: (except at the transom and the front point.)

With your boat, you added wood to the top of the middle bulkhead (1" in the middle) that I can see in the pictures that you posted concerning your homemade pipe. I'm going to do the same.

Soooooo.....it looks like I can cut the bottom halves oversize (except in the middle [keel]) and I must cut the deck oversize for the extra 1" height in the center. Sides must be cut exactly as shown in the plans.

[scorpien boats]

:rolleyes:


I'm envious of u!

you should just start selling those!!

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, it looks like your deck is raised more than 1" in this picture but that is because if you didn't raise the deck at all, the deck would not have touched the middle bulkhead, right? If your deck were flat like the plans, the deck would "float" about 1" above this middle bulkhead.

[Chilly]

All of your concenrns are right. The deck is not touching the bulkheads in the original plan, so that was one of my mistakes to not make the bulkheads larger from the start. I had to add wood, so that the bulkhead would become a nice rest for the deck. Don´t forget to do a "spine" that goes from center of the first enlarged bulkhead to the very tip of the stern. This will make for a good support of the deck.
Also, you say you cannot cut the sides oversize? Yes you can, on the side that will go downwards, that way you will have a nice sprayrail. I missed out on that, and had to go with autobody putty for sprayrails. I also have added a strake to each side of the bottom, but that´s just me. You could just skip those, and add them later if needed.
About the stringers, why are you going to make them longer? Just use the set that goes all the way to the last bulhead from the transom? That´s what I did, and the boat is rock solid even with just glue to hold it together.


Anyway, good luck Danny, and keep the questions coming, I would hate to hear you made a mistake because I didn´t describe something good enough...
Keep it up!

[Chilly]

:rolleyes:


I'm envious of u!

you should just start selling those!!


Nah, It´s not that good. And besides, I could not massproduce them, since I only use hand tools, no drillpress, no mill, no nothing besides hacksaw, files, powerdrill and stuff. I guess they would be to expensive, the time I lay on every piece would be tremendous. And, I do this for fun, not for money.=)

[scorpien boats]

[QUOTE=Chilly]Nah, It´s not that good.

yes it is ;) I would buy one lol (if i was in the market...)

[Chilly]

yes it is ;) I would buy one lol (if i was in the market...)

Well, I could make you one and send it to you if you pay for shipping, no problems..=) No other payment will be accepted.

[BoatDoc]

in that case...i'll take 5 :D

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, do you know how much taller I would have to cut the midde and forward bulkheads so that they would touch the deck at each side? If not, I think that I'll be able to measure it off the full size plans for the sides. I will install a spine that is 1" tall at the middle bulkhead and it will gradually slope down to the point.

Also, you say you cannot cut the sides oversize? Yes you can, on the side that will go downwards, that way you will have a nice sprayrail. I missed out on that, and had to go with autobody putty for sprayrails.

Sprayrails? Do most monos have sprayrails? I don't think that I've seen them on fiberglass boats. I know my Dumas DV20 doesn't have anything like that. Just for clarification-this sprayrail extends down lower than the bottom sheet of plywood, right? It seems like it would add drag and maybe some directional control issues :confused: .

I'd like to install strakes as well. I haven't been able to find any triangular wood stock locally. (I haven't looked all that hard :rolleyes: .) If nothing else, I know that I can mail order it for a decent price (basswood.)

Thank you, Chilly for all of your answers and advice. I think that by the time my plans get here and I start cutting wood, most of my questions and concerns will be answered!

[Chilly]

in that case...i'll take 5 :D

He, I don´t think I would even make myself 5 new ones... ever! If I had a mill, now that would be something else..=)
But 1 I could manage!

[Chilly]

Chilly, do you know how much taller I would have to cut the midde and forward bulkheads so that they would touch the deck at each side?
No, I don´t really...=/ And measuring it would prove a hard task now, I think, with the deck already on.


Just for clarification-this sprayrail extends down lower than the bottom sheet of plywood, right? It seems like it would add drag and maybe some directional control issues :confused: .

Well, with spray-rail, I mean that the freeboard, or the side as you say, protrudes about 2-3 mm where the bottom sheeting meets the side sheet. Get it? Then fill the "crack" there with som putty or whatever, and you will have a smooth sprayrail.

And hey, I told you to ask as much questions as you need, right? So, I´m happy to help out, I just hope you get started, so I can get some more inspiration.
Oh, by the way, I started making a double rudder system today. Hopefully, I´ll be done tomorrow. Pics will come by then.

[dannyUAL767]

I am looking at the plans (boat1) and it shows that the side (freeboard) drops below where it meets with the bottom by .125" (1/8".) I guess that if I cut the side oversize, I could make these spray rails bigger.

By the way, what exactly is the purpose of sprayrails? Do I really need them or can I just sand the side even with where the bottom joins it? I just checked and my Dumas DV20 doesn't have them. Of course it isn't very fast either with its old, weak Thunder Tiger .25 airplane engine :o !

[Chilly]

The guy that gave me the plans, said that these sprayrails will make the boat more stable at the corners, as well as keep the innards of the boat dryer, as it diverts the waterspray a lot. The sole purpose of doing the side a bit oversize, is to have a nice bit to sand down, and get the sprayrail evenly large over the whole side. My cuts were not a 100 %, so the rail was a bit uneven. Had to fix that with putty and stuff, took a god deal of more work to fix than if the side had been cut a little oversize.

[BurnZ]

How do you thin epoxy? Or is that a no-no?

[Chilly]

No, to thin epoxy is useful sometimes. If you have cut or drilled in a piece of wood that was already seald with resin or other, you can thin epoxy with some acetone. This makes the epoxy "seep in" to the wood better, and makes for better sealing.

[dannyUAL767]

Staying with the sprayrails: Do they extend from the rear all the way up to the point?

[Chilly]

Yep. Check this pic for reference...

[dannyUAL767]

BurnZ, I just noticed your question about thinning and sealing with epoxy. I've spent a lot of time reading the information on this website: www.epoxyproducts.com/1_marineresins.html#PENETRATING or to www.epoxyproducts.com/penetrating4u.html. It can be a little work to navigate through the site but it is filled with good info. You could punch in "epoxy" into your search engine and come up with hours of info to read like I did about 2 yrs ago.

Chilly is right. You can add some solvent to thin your thick adhesive epoxy. If you go to the site that I mentioned, they talk about a test where they added more and more solvent and the epoxy started to change it's characteristics. It became rubbery :eek: . It would never cure to a hard state. 10-15% solvent would be fine. Or, you can do like I did and just purchase a kit of their Low V penetrating epoxy. 48 oz kit delivered was about 40 bucks. Check it on their site.

So far, it has worked real well for me. I get plenty of working time with the mixed product-plenty enough to brush the Low V everywhere and then take a paper towel and wipe off any excess to keep weight to a minimum.

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, thank you for that picture :D ! And they say that a picture is worth a thousand words......more like a million :D !

[Chilly]

As usual, I´m glad to actually be of help..=) ´ts all goood....

By the way, my rudder system will take another day to get done, so the pics of that will have to wait until tomorrow...=) And, on monday, I´ll leave home and workshop for a trip to my father, who lives a 1000 km away from here. So I won´t be able to do any work at all for a couple of weeks...=(
But hey, after that, I´ll have to glass in the stuffingtube and so on, to properly mont everything inside the hull! Gonna be nice to get this thing running come spring... can hardly wait!

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, I got my full size plans from Bart today :D ! They really came out good.

[Chilly]

Nice! =) A lot of your questions will be answered now, I guess, as well as a few new ones will pop up..=)

[BurnZ]

Thanks!

Very nice Chilly. How much does it weigh?

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, I was talking with Ian over on www.intlwaters.com about using a one-piece deck instead of cutting out two halves. Do you think this is possible while using a spine to raise the center or will the compound curves make this impossible?

I'm planning on using thin 1/16" Okoume ply for the deck. It should bend and shape real well and I'll just make sure that I've got enough support under it and in the right places.

If I'm able to use a one-piece deck like Ian did, the wood would ( :D ) actually be round as it goes over the spine. I think this in itself will add stiffness and strength to the wood. Let me know what you think.

[dannyUAL767]

BurnZ, did you get a little epoxy education? Lots of great info on that site alone and they have links to all of their competitors!

[Chilly]

Danny, I think you can make that work. If the ply is not enough bendable, steam it, and it will work. Then clamp it down, and let it dry when the clamps are still there. That way, you should be able to get it to work.
Burnz, thank´s! I think the weight is somewhere around 14 pounds or so, with engine installed. Kinda heaviy, but I think it will work out.

[dannyUAL767]

Okay, my plan will be to cut the deck out in one piece (a little oversize for the spine!)

[rc10gtisthebest]

Danny, are you planning on leaving it as bare wood (With a sealer, obviously) or are you planning on painting it?

-Todd

[dannyUAL767]

Todd, I'm planning on painting it. I do have some real nice dark mahagony that I could cover the deck with but for my tastes, it just looks a little too retro/old fashioned. I'm planning on using that mahagony on my sailboat.

I like the way new styled boats look. Heck, even old style boats like my Dumas SK Daddle can be made to look hot with the right finish.

[scorpien boats]

what happend to the chine/strakes?

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly has some pictures of his strake concerns/ installation earlier in this thread.

I believe the discussion of the sprayrail more recently is actually the chine :confused: . I've seen a picture of another boater's boat built from these plans (Ian from www.intlwaters.com) and his had the sprayrail/chine as well. I'll see how it turns out on mine.

Yesterday, I got most of the pieces cut out. The work went well until I had a major brain fart and cut the wrong line :o on my stringers. Aaaaaarrrgggghhhh :mad: ! I spent time last night epoxying it together the right way.

After church, I'm going to cut out the rest of the pieces and start sanding to as close to perfection as I can get the pieces. If things go 100% right, I'll start construction tonight. If not, then tomorrow.

[Chilly]

Nice! You got started! We have had the longest blackout since a hurricane struck us last night, So I have not been able to do jack today. grrr...

Edit...

I have perfected the function of my newly built ruddersystem. The finsih is not yet looked over, and I have just taped the thing on to show you what it looks like.

[Chilly]

Another one...

[ejp]

You have WAY too much free time:D Looks good.

[rc10gtisthebest]

Holy ****!

[Chilly]

Well, that´s life when you are unemployed....=/
Has it´s ups and it´s downs...
Tomorrow I´m going on a trip for a couple of weeks, so I won´t be able to do any work at all. I might check in on you guy´s once in a while tho, so keep the nice comments coming...=)

[scorpien boats]

Did u make that from a block of aluminum??????/

????????????????????????????????????????????

lol

[Chilly]

The blades, and the smaller block holding the blades was made from a block of aluminium, yes...=) The other parts were made from v-shaped pieces and some .... hmm, what´s that called in english then....? Well, a pipe thats square shaped, not round, get it? That part will be drilled out and skeletonized, so to speak, all to save some weight. And it will look cool to..=)
Next phase in this build will be to get a stuffingtube and some teflon. I cannot make the radiobox before glassing in the stuffingtube, so I´m kinda stuck now. I´ll order that, so it will be here when I get home from my trip.

[dannyUAL767]

I got most of the parts cut out. In this picture, you can see the two halves of the bottom and there are several clamped bundles of bulkheads, sides and stringers. I went with full length stringers. I only have 1/16" and 1/8" Okoume ply so I had to double up on the stringers and some of the bulheads. I'll use 1/16" for the deck. Sides and bottom are 1/8".

I've got all these parts sanded nice and even. I've still got to cut slots so that the stringers and bulkheads interlock. Hopefully, I'll be able to do this during the week. I've got a 3-day weekend coming up so whatever I don't get done this week, I'll be able to do then :D .

[dannyUAL767]

Here is another pic.

[Chilly]

Really nice looking! =) That´s gonna make one pretty boat!

[Chris LaPanse]

Great job Chilly!! As mentioned before, you have WAY too much free time.

[Specializer]

sweet boat...cant wait to hear how it runs

[Chilly]

Chris and Specializer, thanks! I can hardly wait myself, I´m kinda eager to get it afloat...

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, I've got a question concerning order of construction. After the stringers and bulkheads are epoxied together, then I epoxy the bottoms on, right? After that comes the sides. Please let me know if I've got the order right. I'm trying to "measure twice and cut once" ;) however, I've already messed up just cutting parts out :( . Nothing that I wasn't able to fix, though!

On Saturday, I plan to get the last parts cut out and start glueing the bulkheads together (I've got to double up two 1/8" pieces of ply.) I've got to do the same with the stringers. Hopefully on Sunday, I'll be able to put the frame together. Maybe I can get the bottoms on on Monday :D . I'm using slow set epoxy for maximum strength so I like to wait the full 24 hr cure time before I mess with the parts. Makes for a very long construction period but I feel more comfortable with it.

[Chilly]

Yep, you´ve got it in the right order. At least that´s the way I did it, and it worked out just fine. About the cutting, I know that part also...=) But, as long as you do not glue an incorrect piece in there, it´s fine, just make a new part...=)

[dannyUAL767]

I've been working on the boat, and I finally got the bulkheads and full length stringers epoxied together today. Here is a picture of it. My daughter said, "that's not a boat, that's a grocery store!" I'm using the cans to keep my parts at 90° angles. Everything is level and square.

Later this week, I'll get the bottoms on.

[rc10gtisthebest]

Are you working on a true flat surface? I see "WARPED" in the corner? :confused:

[dannyUAL767]

Good catch! The far side from the edge to about 5" in is not flat. I wrote warped on that side so that I wouldn't make a mistake one day and try to use it. The rest is flat and true. I used a 4' level today before I started glueing parts together.

[dannyUAL767]

I got the frame together last night and here it is before I glued half of the bottom on it. The epoxy is still curing and I won't be able to get the second half of the bottom on until tomorrow evening.

[rc10gtisthebest]

Looks good.

[dannyUAL767]

Here it is before the second half of the bottom was epoxied on. It is curing as I type this ;) . I would have liked to have built it completely upside down but I didn't have a wide completely flat board to put over the bottom 1/8" plywood to insure that it was completely flat against the bulkheads and stringers. I think it is going to come out good anyway. I was careful not to induce any twist into the assembly.

[slat26]

nice work danny! YGM!

[dannyUAL767]

How do you like my weights? I didn't want to stand there for an hour holding the bottom down on the forward bulkhead :rolleyes: . Nothing would stay because of the slope. Then, a lightbulb lit up over my head :D !

Chris, YGM.

Chilly, YGM.

[slat26]

im liking the rubber band contraption :D

[Chilly]

Danny, you are making that look really good! I can bet you guy´s a buck that Danny´s boat will look better than mine...=)

[rc10gtisthebest]

I can bet you a buck that if I built this boat, anyones would look better then mine :eek: :rolleyes: :p

BTW- Good Job Danny.

-Todd

[dannyUAL767]

Thanks for the kind words, guys!

Chilly, I only hope that my boat will look as good as yours :D ! When I originally saw the pictures of it, I was hooked; I had to build one!

[Chilly]

He, he...at least we know my boat works great for one thing then! =)

[dannyUAL767]

This is the construction as of last night. The strip down the middle seam is 6 oz glass cloth. I used slow set epoxy and the stuff was real thick and kinda tough to work with because of that. I needed to have thinned it a bit but I didn't want to give up any of the epoxy's strength qualities in this critical area! For my next boat, I think that I'll get some thinner epoxy from one of the major epoxy companies just for this ;) .

I've been getting the stringers glued to the bottom with 30 and 45 min epoxy. Here is where I made another mistake. I sanded an angle on the outside edge of each of the stringers so that when the bottom went on, it would fit more flush. Mistake. I sanded at the wrong angle and way too much :mad: . I've got a 1/16" gap on one of the stringers :eek: . Had I not sanded, it would have been perfect. Oh well. I'm filling it in with fiberglass cloth strands and slow set epoxy. I think that it will be fine and I'm expecting no problems from it.

[slat26]

check this out, it kinda looks like chilly's boat
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19166&item=5951750161&rd=1

[dannyUAL767]

I saw that boat on ebay this morning and thought the same thing. Is it built from the Wild Thing plans, I wonder :confused: . It seems that it is about that size.

I've got my stringers epoxied in real good now. Took a long time since my so-called slow set epoxies start to gel way before I'd like them to :( . Its about 69°-70° F in my house and both epoxies start to gel within 15 mins :mad: . It could be that they are a little too old. I bought them both during a big Tower Hobbies order about 2+ yrs ago!

I'm also fighting bubbles in the epoxy. I've been using the trick of slightly heating up the wood with a blow dryer before applying the glue. It helps to keeps the bubbles down. Nice trick to keep in mind ;) .

[dannyUAL767]

I think that I found the original designer of this boat! Go to this link: http://p086.ezboard.com/fjimsrcboatdockfrm2.showMessage?topicID=3858.topic

Nice boat!

[Chilly]

check this out, it kinda looks like chilly's boat
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19166&item=5951750161&rd=1

It is the boat I´m building! Or at least that´s what you get if you follow the plans! =)

[Chilly]

I think that I found the original designer of this boat! Go to this link: http://p086.ezboard.com/fjimsrcboatdockfrm2.showMessage?topicID=3858.topic

Nice boat!


Yep, sure seems like it! =) Seems like a nice guy too!

[dannyUAL767]

Didn't get any real work done on the boat today. I'm sick and so is everyone else in my house :( . We feel terrible. It's been cold all day with high temps in the 40°s F and windy.

I've got to take the boat outside and sand away all of the excess bottom wood that extends past the sides of the bulkheads (you can see this in the photo in post 203 above.) This will allow me to glue the sides on 1/8" below the bottoms for the sprayrails. It's supposed to be a little warmer tomorrow. I'll see how I feel.

[dannyUAL767]

Well, it wasn't much warmer today; 49° F :( but I put on some thermal underwear and coveralls and worked in the sun. No wind. It wasn't bad at all :D . Spent a long time removing the excess wood and finally got both sides glued on to the aft half of the boat (before the sides start to curve into the bow.) If I think that the epoxy has cured enough before I go to bed, I'll glue the front parts of the sides late tonight.

[Chilly]

Nice going Danny! At this pace, you are soon where I am! Have you decided and bought or made any hardware yet?

[dannyUAL767]

Last summer, I purchased some Speedmaster hardware for a "future project" :D ! Looks like it'll be hanging off the back of this boat soon!

I'm going to offset the driveline by 3/16"-1/4" to the right. I haven't decided if I'm going to use a strut or just use a brass tube exiting the transom :confused: . I've got the strut so I may just go ahead and use it. I still need a flexcable, though.

The sides are now on and I'm going to do some more work today. I'm going to glass the joints where the sides meet the bottoms like I did in the center of the bottoms. I'll try to post another picture later this evening.

[Chilly]

Great! Hope you are enjoying the build as well, and as for the strut, I would not dare use only the brass. The vibrations caused by a ever so slightly unbalanced prop could give you some really nasty cracks and all sorts of things. But that´s just me, maybe it works just fine with only a brass tube. I´m not going to offset my propshaft either, since I put the strakes on there. Hope to eliminate the need of an offset prop that way.
Currently, I´m waiting for shaft, stuffingtube and other stuff to arrive, so I´m stuck at the moment. Sitting down right now and designing a new pipe, i have it drawn up on paper, and now I´m rolling it up and making a mock pipe of it. Then, I make the necessary cuts to bend it, and tape it together. That way, I get templates to draw on the sheetmetal, cut them out and weld it together. A lot less welds, and a better fitting pipe. Boring job, but if you want it right, it´s gotta be done...=/

[dannyUAL767]

Dennis, good luck on that pipe!

If you notice on the Jim's Boat Dock thread that I started, I'm very concerned about propwalk. Like I said there, My Aeromarine Avenger Cat has a bad case of propwalk. So far, I've tried resharpening the prop-no effect; raising the strut-no effect :mad: ! Well, raising the strut made the boat get "flighty" or "loose" on the water since it allowed the stern to sit lower in the water and raised the nose. Hard pull to the right under full throttle is still there.

What a pain! I don't want that in my new mono so I'm just going to offset the shaft. I'll offset the shaft in my Avenger when I tear the boat down and repaint. This will happen some time this winter/early spring.

[Chilly]

Yep, I´ll modify mine too, if necessary, but for now I´m going with a centered prop. I found out today, that I got a job I had applied for, starting monday! WEEHAA!! Finally...been out of a job for about a year and a half, so now I´m going to be able to put some more money in to this thing, meaning a higher pace of building. Also, the place I am starting at, is a mechanical workshop, with latehs and mills, and bending tools for exhaust-systems. I´m going to be making exhausts for turbo-cars for a living, and be able to make my own stuff in the evening if I want to! Nice...=)

[dannyUAL767]

I'm very happy to hear that, Chilly :D :D :D ! It sounds like you're going to be doing work that you enjoy and the fringe benefits are great! It's great to be making some money because this hobby usually takes quite a bit of it :( .

[Chilly]

Yeah, tell me about it...Ever wondered why I make all my bits and pieces myself? I don´t have the money, simply. But from now on, I´ll make them look better, I wont start bying them...=) Oh, and thank´s!

[Chilly]

Very short update...this is what I´ve been up to lately, took me a whole lot of thinking, measuring and cutting to get right. Welding it together tomorrow, and a header will be made. Took me a lot of work and time, believe me....

[Chilly]

One more...

[rc10gtisthebest]

Looks good chilly! How large (I.D.) is the Stinger?

-Todd

[dannyUAL767]

Chilly, thats quite a pipe that you're building. Why are you wanting the exhaust to go out the opposite side of the boat? I'm just curious.

I didn't do any work to my boat today. Last night, I finished glassing the joints as you can see in my pictures. I'm going to start working on the decking and just how I'm going to do it later in the week or this weekend.

[rc10gtisthebest]

Gosh Danny, I am truly envious! Looks really nice.

[Chilly]

Well, I/D on the stinger is 10 mm, that´s as close to 10.3 (or 0.409 inch)as I could get...=) And the reason I route the pipe on the other side, is that I do not want that much overhang of the transom, because that will make the weight of the pipe throw my balance way of. And besides that, I think that it would look silly with that pipe sticking out that far...=)
Mind you that this engine is a 35 cc, so the pipe is quite long... tuned lenght from face of piston to start of stinger is 27,3", or 693 mm. Big, yes, but that´s what all the calculations gave me, so I think I´m on the right track. I´ve used several pipe design programs and excel-sheets to calculate it, and the all give about the same result in design. Even made the calculations tha hard way, by figuring it out with all the formulas and stuff, and still the same... Anyone think I´m way off here, please tell me so, and help me design this thing right if you have the know how... In my opinion, the stinger seems very long, same as the bafle cone in length, 6.554". Any input?

[slat26]

im just wondering...would deepening the vee make the boat handle better in rougher water? also on the sides, would angling them in affect the boats performance?

here is a rough scetch of what i mean by the sides...
Side A is the angled side and Side B is the normal side

Edit: sorry for the small pic, i don't know how to get it any bigger and still be under 75 KB, without finfing a webhost.

[dannyUAL767]

On the plans, the sides are angled in slightly. I don't know what angling them in more would do to handling.

As for deepening the V, yes, I do think that it would handle rougher water better. It may also slow the top speed of the boat as well.

[slat26]

a side few of a drawing(you can only do so much in paint)

[slat26]

i examined your last pictured and i noticed the slight angle, ill have to look at chilly's pics to see if i missed it on his too. i will eventually make a cardboard model so i can see the new angles, and if i like them

[Chilly]

Hey, the plans are just to get you started really...after that, let your imagination run wild, and change the plans in whatever way you see fit, or estetich. A deeper v will handle rugh better, but it will also slow down. Only thing I can think of that would happen if you angle the sides more, is if the boat is very heavy or leans hard in the turns. Other than that, I dont think it will do anything but look better...

[slat26]

Hey, the plans are just to get you started really...after that, let your imagination run wild, and change the plans in whatever way you see fit, or estetich. A deeper v will handle rugh better, but it will also slow down. Only thing I can think of that would happen if you angle the sides more, is if the boat is very heavy or leans hard in the turns. Other than that, I dont think it will do anything but look better...

Would a spray rail (not sure if that is proper term), flat part where the bottom part of the hull meets the sides, help the hard leaning in turns?

[dannyUAL767]

Would a spray rail (not sure if that is proper term), flat part where the bottom part of the hull meets the sides, help the hard leaning in turns?
Chris, go here to Jim's Boat Dock and read about it on page 2: http://p086.ezboard.com/fjimsrcboatdockfrm2.showMessage?topicID=3858.topic

[slat26]

ok thanks for the link, i have tried to register and subsrcibe with that forum, but i keep getting emails that my request has been denied :( i geuss they dont want me on that forum :rolleyes:

[Chilly]

I guess you are doing something wrong when you are registering then? Anyway, the spray rail could help in the turns, but it´s mainly there to divert the waterspray from getting on the deck of the boat. I do not think that you will have an issue with too hard leaning in the turns, that was just retorical. As long as you dont do something funny to your rudders, the boat will turn just nicely. A sprayrail is a good thing anyways, keeps the carb from sucking in water if you get the water elsewhere than on the deck and over the boat.
But back to the problem of Jim´s...make sure you are filling in all of the required fields, and it should be fine, unless you have messed up and someone there does not like you. I find that hard to believe tho.....We are all nice guys having fun, am I not right? =)
Be well, guy´s, I´ll post pics of the new pipe and header today!

[slat26]

Your right Chilly, everyone is great on these forums! I am still having trouble applying for membership there, i have filled out my profile for ezboard and filled in the Bio part as well. i unchecked all the boxes too. maybe they do not allow kids to jion at that forum?!? :confused:

[Chilly]

I have no idea...I can ask tho, what username are you triyng to register?

[dannyUAL767]

I remember having a real hard time registering there as well. It wasn't a "user friendly" process for me. I'd forgotten all about it until you mentioned it. Good luck! I hope that you can get registered.

[Chilly]

Ok, pics of finished pipe! I´m happy with the looks, but the functipon is not yet tested due to frozen lake, and the fact that my boat is not yet finished...=) Anyway, here´s the pics!

[Chilly]

Another one

[Chilly]

And the last one...

[rc10gtisthebest]

Chilly, I am in shock. Beautiful!

[Chilly]

*blushing* Nah, it´s not that pretty, got a few nacks and spots where it didn´t line up properly... But hey, thank´s a lot, and I hope it will work as good as it looks!

[slat26]

I am registered with ezboard as the same username as on this forum, "slat26"

Chilly,
That pipe looks really nice, i wish i had the skills to do all my own crafting as you have done, i am anxious to see your boat completed!

BTW, what did you use for a coupler between the header and the pipe?
it looks like a garden hose :D

[Chilly]

Ok, I´ll check with the guys on the dock...
Thank´s for that compliment, and if you try to do your own stuff, I am sure that you will be able to do just as fine as me, it´s really not all that hard. The hardest part is really thinking the job thru first, so you know how to do it.
And as for the coupler, its a coupler I bought from a retailer here in Sweden, silicone tubing with fiberglass reinforcement. Same stuff used in demanding cooling equipment, really... But you are right, when I first opened the package it came in, I first thought of a garden hose as well=) But this is slightly bigger tho, 1" I/D to be exact.

[rc10gtisthebest]

Never seen a blue garden hose, maybe green or yellow. :confused: ;) :p

[Chris LaPanse]

WOW!
It looks almost as good as my pipe, and mine was purchased from WH. Beautiful work.

[Chilly]

rc10, I guess we have a lot more colours to choose from over here then..=)

Chris, thank´s a lot, now I just hope it performs as good as it looks, and I´ll be setting speedrecords for Husqvarna engine powered boats...=)

[Burkey1000]

hi ya all, just a mention on strakes, strakes dont make the boat get on plane quicker, steps in the bottom of the hull do that, strakes or for turning, to stop the boat sliding out, as for running them all the way along the hull, they should not enter the running plane of the boat, ie. when its fully on a plane, to find the running plane of the boat is easy, just take the width of the transom, make an equal triangle with those sizes, turn the boat upside down, put one edge at the back, draw around the triangle, and thats your running plane, the strakes should not enter this area, make sure all edges are as sharp as possible no curves both on the bottom v and the transom back edge, dont forget to blueprint the hull, ie, once the triangle is marked on the hull, that area must be flat and i mean flat, put a steel edge along it, any hooks must be filled, and bumps taken away, this has a huge affect on a hull, a large hook will not allow the boat to break water tension, and cause rolling at speed, and loss of speed, perfect flat, and knife like edges, you cant go wrong, its what all the pros do as soon as they get a hull, or they buy blueprinted hulls. Hope this helps you all.

[dannyUAL767]

Burkey1000, that is some great information about strakes. I was thinking about leaving them off since the designer of the boat said that it didn't need them. I think that I'll just run it without and see how she handles. Now that I know what they're for, I'll add them if it looks like the boat wants to slide in the turns.

That was also a great explanation about how to figure out the running plane or ride pad of a mono. That explains why I see some monos with strakes that don't go all the way to the transom ;) .

[Burkey1000]

if anyone wants an easy method of how to work out and build your own tunned pipe just let me know, i wont go into it unless someone wants to know, but its not that bad, you can cut alot of the math out if you follow a few rules, and some dos and donts, you can get a pipe that works realy well, of course to fine tune it to perfection need a dyno, and well we just dont have the lying in the garage do we lol, let me know :)

[slat26]

burkey, i find all that info very interesting! i am wondering what you mean by blueprinting tho. also, burkey, do you have any info or opinions about sprayrails(or chines) and if they help the performance of the boat.

I know many people have talked about this before, but everyone has a different opinion, or theory on everything. I am just trying to piece together everyone's information.

Thanks!
Chris

P.S. back to the strakes, how far forward should they come?

[Burkey1000]

chines arnt there to stop water getting in the boat, lets face it, in a straight line theres not much water gonna go over the hull, but as soon as you turn there will be alot, i suppose it might help, but there main use is to keep the hull more stable, and to direct the water to the back of the boat, where you need it most, a prop need water to work, it can also help the wash out the back of the boat aswell, keeping the path of water more streamlined is the best way to describe it, thats why about 5 to 6 inches is the best lenth for a strut on a mono, ie 6 inches from transom to prop, the reason for this, is because the water is what you cleaner, not just a wash but a solid rush of water, the ideal place to have the prop for max effect. soem of the best racing hull have them and some dont, its one of them things that its down to your own findins, as for me, if it dont need em dont use them. As for blueprinting, its the tech name for doing the running plane on the hull, for max speed, and performance that triangle is the most important area of the whole hull, keep it perfectly flat and the bootom edge and rear edge of transom as sharp a possible, flat and sharp in that area= max performance simple as. As for where to start the chines it doesnt matter to much, if its a shallow v like the one chilly is making keep them close to the front, of start them from there, it wont slow the boat down, cos that part of the hull aint in the water at speed
but will help in the turns, if your boat is set up right, a mono should run no more 6 to 8 inches of the hull in the water a max speed and if your good at the controls, get it down to as low as 4, the less hull in the water the less drag, less drag= more speed. a point to remember do you want max performace form it or will it be used for fun, if it just for fun and not raced, then the extremes you go to dont matter, i will post some pics of my boat on for ya to see. Hopes this helps, anymore ?s just ask, if i can help i will :)