Team Associated RC18T Forum [Archive] - Page 9

nitro_newbie

10-14-2006, 03:16 PM

3racing, and a couple others make the wheel adapters.

http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=6405&cat_name=

Today I replaced the rest of the bearings on the truck and got to eyeballin it. I'm running this big feiago, so I figured it could pull some taller gearing. I put a 19 (!) tooth pinion in it, stock 55 spur. Ran the math and excel gave me a theoretical top speed of 47 mph. I went outside with a big grin on my face.

Well its smoking fast, no doubt. But I didn't feel like it was a full 47mph. The tires were expanding, and it was so much fun to drive. I was trying to hold these big sweeping corners around my apartments and kept losing control.

It ended with me getting it on 2 wheels mid corner which blew my line and sent me straight for an angled curb. Wicked hard hit, truck went flying maybe 12 feet through the air and landed unresponsive. The front hinge pin popped out, which send the dogbone flying. The bumper has a big gouge out of it, I lost the body clip that holds the battery, the receiver came loose and nearly flew out the front, rear shock tower body clip tore out.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/ducati777/Picture066.jpg

Hmm now that I'm closely inspecting it, a lot of stuff is where it shouldn't be, but I don't think anything actually broke. If I put the hinge pin in, remount the receiver, come up with a new dogbone I might be in business. Whoo hoo!

Man this little truck is funny. Especially at 40 mph.

wow that must have been a gnarly accident it looks worse than what you say. crash nascar style :D :teacher:

Mini-TBasher55

10-14-2006, 07:54 PM

wow that must have been a gnarly accident it looks worse than what you say. crash nascar style :D :teacher:
Ugh, you punk! I was gonna get the 2000th post. :flame:

smilinjohn

10-14-2006, 08:07 PM

3racing, and a couple others make the wheel adapters.

http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=6405&cat_name=

Today I replaced the rest of the bearings on the truck and got to eyeballin it. I'm running this big feiago, so I figured it could pull some taller gearing. I put a 19 (!) tooth pinion in it, stock 55 spur. Ran the math and excel gave me a theoretical top speed of 47 mph. I went outside with a big grin on my face.

Well its smoking fast, no doubt. But I didn't feel like it was a full 47mph. The tires were expanding, and it was so much fun to drive. I was trying to hold these big sweeping corners around my apartments and kept losing control.

It ended with me getting it on 2 wheels mid corner which blew my line and sent me straight for an angled curb. Wicked hard hit, truck went flying maybe 12 feet through the air and landed unresponsive. The front hinge pin popped out, which send the dogbone flying. The bumper has a big gouge out of it, I lost the body clip that holds the battery, the receiver came loose and nearly flew out the front, rear shock tower body clip tore out.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/ducati777/Picture066.jpg

Hmm now that I'm closely inspecting it, a lot of stuff is where it shouldn't be, but I don't think anything actually broke. If I put the hinge pin in, remount the receiver, come up with a new dogbone I might be in business. Whoo hoo!

Man this little truck is funny. Especially at 40 mph.

:teacher: I had a crash where my front end looked like that, my front arm mount blew out which is why the hingpin came out. :roll2: I fixed it with some slow zap ca as a tempoary fix while I waited for the replacement from my HS. :D I never had another problem with it after that, and only replaced it when I got the new one just to be safe. :D Cool sounding crash though :cool: Man these things are like a timex takes a licken, keeps on ticken :wave:

yeeehaw

10-15-2006, 09:30 AM

I have yet to break a part on mine, the worst that has happened to me is that my battery (top two cells) will slide foward in a head on and break the solder so it is unresponsive.

greatplumber

10-15-2006, 10:28 AM

What motors do you guys recommend? I don't want to go brushless but I don't want stock I have 50bucks to buy a new motor with. I was thinking fantom mini-mod but I can't find one. I can find the peak raider but I don't know how well that motor is compared to others so I figured I would hold off and see what others think.

what motor are you running?
I run the reedy mini max. Its about 10 mph faster than wifes stock 18MT.

BIGDADDYV

10-15-2006, 11:52 AM

I run the reedy mini max. Its about 10 mph faster than wifes stock 18MT.

I run the mini max mod also and it tears the living life out of my buddies Stampede .... Not that his Pede is a slouch by any means but mine runs circles around him and he still cant catch it on the straights :D

RC18Mt's rule ;) :driving:

yeeehaw

10-15-2006, 01:15 PM

ive heard alot of good things with the mini max motor. I personally havent run it but is very well liked. I run the mamba 8000 so there is not much that can catch mine but I hear the mini max is quite a rocket.

nitro_newbie

10-15-2006, 01:44 PM

Ugh, you punk! I was gonna get the 2000th post. :flame:

my post was the 2001th :D :teacher: so some one beat me too it dam! :D

nitro~newbie :cool:

smilinjohn

10-15-2006, 07:53 PM

I have yet to break a part on mine, the worst that has happened to me is that my battery (top two cells) will slide foward in a head on and break the solder so it is unresponsive.

:p I broke the conector wire off mine Saturday when I landed hard off a landscaping jump in our parking lot. It snaped the + wire off right at the solder joint. :huh:

yeeehaw

10-15-2006, 07:54 PM

see the truck is indestructable the electronics cant take the punishment! lol

smilinjohn

10-15-2006, 08:02 PM

see the truck is indestructable the electronics cant take the punishment! lol

:D Naw I've broke the truck to, :teacher: Just not near as much as I did the old losi. I do have to admit it almost seems indestructable though :wave:

yeeehaw

10-15-2006, 08:41 PM

This truck is my baby, never breaks ( knock on wood) reliable, compact, and fast
I cant wait till I get a brushless plane. I really dont think I will go nitro any more. OHHHHH I love my mamba

smilinjohn

10-15-2006, 09:28 PM

:D I've only broke the actual truck once. The mamba is D-BOMB :winner: . Don't know any thing bout planes :driving: I'm into nothing but cars toy ones real ones. :bang:

yeeehaw

10-15-2006, 10:14 PM

Im more interested in planes but for some reason I bought this truck instead..lol I will probably get another couple of cars but planes are where it is at in my view.

IBJAMMIN

10-16-2006, 12:20 AM

I will stick with cars I have had boats and planes in the past and the problem with planes when something goes wrong you usually end up with a pile of parts and have to start over at least with cars it's something simple and cheap to replace.

One thing I love about the RC18 is the WOW factor people think oh what a cute little car and when they see it go 70-80mph :wow: words like NO WAY or HOLLY ----! what is that thing come to mind. :D

I have always been a gas car guy but after discovering brushless motors and LIPO batteries with insane speeds and 30-40 minute run times I have been hooked on electric. The RC18 is a great platform for on and off road fun part's are cheap and the performance posabilites are endless my goal is 90mph plus by next years worlds fastest car challenge. I hope my new Quark 33amp ESC and Wraith 7000kv motor get here soon I cant wait to see how it does compared to the 6800kv Mamba set up. :)

ducati777

10-16-2006, 01:45 PM

Yup IBJ, the wow factor is hilarious. What a cute lil car, is it fast? Uhhh watch this....

Heheh then all sorts of fun things come out of thier mouth.

yeeehaw

10-16-2006, 04:33 PM

the wow factor is why Ill keep a couple cars around, but I love the thrill of seeing a scale war bird flying around and being in control. However, my want list is a few pages long of cars. I do believe I will get the m18 and a brushless 10th scale for racing, and a buggy or st(brushless of course)

ChuckDeez

10-16-2006, 09:45 PM

hey IBJAMMIN, how did you fit your motor heatsink? I have the same one as you, but i don't know how to file it down with. what did you use? I have the same motor mount too. let me know!!

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0719.jpg

yeeehaw

10-16-2006, 10:07 PM

dremel....it is the hart beat of America....lol

yeeehaw

10-16-2006, 10:08 PM

Ib Jammin, where did you get the chassis for that 18 b? Im in love.....

nitro_newbie

10-16-2006, 10:37 PM

well i just bought a pc fan(from radioshack) for my 18t and it is pretty big but not overly big(like 1 to 1 1/4 inches wide) it can fit but it will need some massaging. i was wondering if there were any articles on how to install the fan and how to hook it up. it was a good deal it was 2 bucks and came with a huge heatsink that ima chop up and put on the mamba esc. also is it bad that it is a 12 volt dc fan?? thanx for the help
nitr_newbie:cool:

IBJAMMIN

10-16-2006, 10:39 PM

To get the heatsink in you have to file the side down to clear the top brace in the chassis see arrow and eather file the heat sink on the bottom or open up the hole in the chassis a little to get the spur to line up with the pinion gear.

I got home from work and the Wraith motor and Quark ESC came in the mail today :D I tried the motor out with the Mamba ESC and WOW what a diference from the 6800 motor lots more power and it pulled a larger pinion gear without overheating. I noticed a pulsating sensation at full throtle probably maxing out the mamba ESC and the motor needs more Amps? I need to solder up the pins and deans plug on the Quark ESC and figure out the programing and get it mounted up. :)

nitro_newbie

10-16-2006, 10:49 PM

so how should i solder this thing up it has 3 wires??how many do i need any description or digram i can follow?

IBJAMMIN

10-16-2006, 10:50 PM

Ib Jammin, where did you get the chassis for that 18 b? Im in love.....

The chassis is from GPM I got it from TheToyz on EBAY for 49 bucks :)

IBJAMMIN

10-16-2006, 10:53 PM

so how should i solder this thing up it has 3 wires??how many do i need any description or digram i can follow?

I think they plug them into an open slot in the reciever for power not sure I have never ran a fan?

ChuckDeez

10-16-2006, 10:58 PM

thanks jammin, I cut the sub chassis a bit to make it fit. fits perfect now.

bspate

10-17-2006, 09:52 AM

To get the heatsink in you have to file the side down to clear the top brace in the chassis see arrow and eather file the heat sink on the bottom or open up the hole in the chassis a little to get the spur to line up with the pinion gear.

You dont have to file it down......just rotate the heatsink around to where the open section is lined up with the brace and it will clear fine.

If need be, use a flat head screwdriver and put it in the open area of the heatsink and twist a little to make it a little looser for a moment to be able to rotate the engine inside of it.

- bspate -

BIGDADDYV

10-17-2006, 01:45 PM

with the mamba 6800 what is the best gear configuration ???? I am looking for blacktop speed if that helps any ......

redhatman

10-17-2006, 02:37 PM

for higher top end, go lower on the spur, and higher on the pinion

yeeehaw

10-17-2006, 04:13 PM

That is a good choice, also if just doing speed runs- advance the timing on the esc up to full power. low on take off. that is how I set up mine with the mamba 8000 for speed runs. normally just decrease the timing to normal or low (at most race) then take off speed to the middle setting.

bionictony

10-17-2006, 05:29 PM

do i need a pinion and spur gear to convert the rc18b into an MT? the ae pda conversion file didn't list it as parts needed

smilinjohn

10-17-2006, 09:11 PM

do i need a pinion and spur gear to convert the rc18b into an MT? the ae pda conversion file didn't list it as parts needed

:teacher: The only different gear between the b & mt is the pinion. On the 18 b it's a 14t, and on the 18mt it's a 10t. :D :wave:

BIGDADDYV

10-17-2006, 11:14 PM

ok then with the 6800 what other goodies besides lipos will i NEED to make it all run properly .....

ChuckDeez

10-18-2006, 12:01 AM

MIP diffs. they are really good. I got them and they are good.

redhatman

10-18-2006, 12:44 PM

ok guys, do any of your mamba setups wheely? Mine never did because i had the diffs setup to slip, but now on my friends we locked both diffs and it still doesnt wheely.

ChuckDeez

10-18-2006, 12:49 PM

ok guys, do any of your mamba setups wheely? Mine never did because i had the diffs setup to slip, but now on my friends we locked both diffs and it still doesnt wheely.

I use to with the stock motor. I need lipo for my mamba setup. there isn't enough punch in the nimh batteries.

ducati777

10-18-2006, 04:57 PM

You don't need MIP diffs... You can simply run outdrive sleeves. Mamba's need good batteries, diff shims and outdrive sleeves. Then go rock your brains out.

Far as wheelies, yea sometimes. I'm usually limited by traction though. On carpet I've had it backflip. On the street I've seen it loft them after about 10 feet. On dirt and grass it'll pop up all over the place. Last time I ran I was up to speed and went full brake and it pulled a nice stoppie, and carried the rear wheels about 2 inches off the ground for a bit.

But I'm not going to say it consistently wheelies. We'd need a big area of carpet and I'd probably just flip it backwards. On the street it mostly accelerates like mad, but throw a bump in or something and it'll pull that front end up.

ATucker

10-18-2006, 05:53 PM

I have a question about the 6 cell batteries that come with the RC18MT:

Can they be charged with a Duratrax IntelliPeak charger? Or do you have to use the "wall charger" that comes with the truck?

Thanks!

smilinjohn

10-18-2006, 07:27 PM

ok guys, do any of your mamba setups wheely? Mine never did because i had the diffs setup to slip, but now on my friends we locked both diffs and it still doesnt wheely.

:teacher: The only time mine did wheelies was when I had a tight diff in the rear, and a loose diff in front :driving: . On the 4 wheel drive set up the drive trane distributes the power in a way that limits the cars ability to raise the front tires off the ground by dividing the torque amongst all 4 drive wheels :huh: . On 2 wheel set ups all the torque produced by the motor is sent to only the two drive wheels. :bang: Therefore a 2wheel drivetrane has twice as much torque being delivered to a drivetrane that is half the size of the 4wheel drivetrane.

:driving: So if you want a rig that pulls wheelies go with a 2 wheel drivetrane platform, or you can try a loose front diff, and a tight rear diff cause mine would flip over when I punched the throttle with the NiMh batteries and the mamba :wow: :wave:

bionictony

10-18-2006, 08:48 PM

does the stock am 27mhz receiver work with a futaba or airtronics am radio with the same channel crystal? i want to change the TX

redhatman

10-18-2006, 10:10 PM

ibjammin, do you use vendetta mounts and a vendetta wing on any of your rc18's? If so, how exactly do they mount? Do you have pictures? Thanks

ChuckDeez

10-18-2006, 10:51 PM

ibjammin, do you use vendetta mounts and a vendetta wing on any of your rc18's? If so, how exactly do they mount? Do you have pictures? Thanks

he had the Rc18B mounts and just the Duratrax Vendetta or Vulcan wing. Its pretty easy.

redhatman

10-18-2006, 11:12 PM

ooooooo, ok. Does anyone use the vendetta mounts?

ChuckDeez

10-18-2006, 11:35 PM

:teacher: The only time mine did wheelies was when I had a tight diff in the rear, and a loose diff in front :driving: . On the 4 wheel drive set up the drive trane distributes the power in a way that limits the cars ability to raise the front tires off the ground by dividing the torque amongst all 4 drive wheels :huh: . On 2 wheel set ups all the torque produced by the motor is sent to only the two drive wheels. :bang: Therefore a 2wheel drivetrane has twice as much torque being delivered to a drivetrane that is half the size of the 4wheel drivetrane.

:driving: So if you want a rig that pulls wheelies go with a 2 wheel drivetrane platform, or you can try a loose front diff, and a tight rear diff cause mine would flip over when I punched the throttle with the NiMh batteries and the mamba :wow: :wave:

what kind of wheels are you running?

smilinjohn

10-19-2006, 12:23 AM

what kind of wheels are you running?

:D The Proline Road rage :D

HPI-Fan-4-Ever

10-19-2006, 10:32 AM

Ok finally got my truck and it is SWEET, pullin' wheelies around the house, good times...I'm headed to a carpet track tonight, don't have foams yet, but what oil weights/springs in the front and rear are you guys running? He usually sets the track up kinda tight, and I'll admit I'm a n00b at car setups for carpet. Can anyone help? Thanks!

ChuckDeez

10-21-2006, 02:41 PM

Here is my monster rc18t. lol

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0736.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0735.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0738.jpg

smilinjohn

10-21-2006, 03:06 PM

I wouldn't be able to run mine like that, I'd break the posts in a heart beat. Good looking rig though. I'd post pics of mine (all beat up) but I don't have a camera that'll put pics on my computer & I don't have the money for one yet, I've got to get a real car first, then up grades for my MT, then a new 1/10 scale electric rig (still undecided bout what), then maby a camera.

IBJAMMIN

10-21-2006, 11:21 PM

I see you found the TC3 nitro body mount's :cool:

I had a chance to wire up the new Quark 33amp ESC and try it out with the Wraith 7000kv motor WOW there is definetly more power after about 20 minutes I fried the spur gear I forgot to locktite the motor screws :( I need to change the spur anyways for some taller gearing. :D

smilinjohn

10-21-2006, 11:35 PM

Does the rear spoiler/front wing ;) help :huh:

IBJAMMIN

10-21-2006, 11:38 PM

Does the rear spoiler/front wing ;) help :huh:

Yes at over 80mph it helps keep it on the ground. :)

I had to change the spur and clean the diff's last night I found a servo mount that works great with the Hitec HS65mg servo from 3Racing I filed the inside out so the servo fit and it bolted right up. :D

I'm trying something new with the diff's I fliped them in the case's and reversed the motor so the pinion and spur run backwards to keep from sucking the rocks and dirt in the top? See if it helps. :cool:

smilinjohn

10-22-2006, 10:46 PM

:cool: Sweet looking rig, let us know if that reverse diff thing works :huh:

smilinjohn

10-22-2006, 10:47 PM

:D BTW how does that DP drag-link do compaired to the stock one??? :wave:

ChuckDeez

10-22-2006, 11:50 PM

:D BTW how does that DP drag-link do compaired to the stock one??? :wave:

one of the best hop ups.

IBJAMMIN

10-23-2006, 12:07 AM

I went out and ran the 18B in the parking lot this evening and found the quark ESC and the Wraith 7000kv motor is a very powerfull package I had to slow the throttle speed down on my M8 100 percent to keep it controlable with the 4 cell lipo. :D

Everything was going great till the pinion shaft snaped on the Wraith motor. :eek: I dont think the reverse rotation had anything to do with it. I had a hard time lining up the pinion I should of tossed it and tried another one but it was the only large one I had :( I hope it's not a weak spot on the shaft the Wraith motor is an awsome motor. You know that old saying speed is a matter of money how fast do you want to go? :huh:

BTW the pinion snaped off over 80mph -O-:flame:

smilinjohn

10-23-2006, 12:24 AM

:wow: I'll assume your going to replace the motor shaft(duh) so I'll reserve judgement on the reverse rotation and its tendency to keep debris out of the spur assembly till a later time. Although I don't know if I'll try an 80mph speed run anytime soon (scared) :o not to mention the fact that I don't have a big enough or smooth enough parking lot close to even seriously consider it.(scared) :roll2: :wave:

IBJAMMIN

10-23-2006, 12:58 AM

smilinjohn

10-23-2006, 09:56 AM

I dont think I can replace it? it looks like the motor can is crimped on I need to see how much it's going to cost to send it in and have it replaced? or just wright it off and get a new one there BO till November. :(

Sorry to hear bout that, but it's what we go thru unfortunatly. From what i've seen the motors are fairly cheap, it's the ESC that get ya.

yeeehaw

10-23-2006, 12:36 PM

man that sucks, especially since you had no brakes!

HPI-Fan-4-Ever

10-23-2006, 01:23 PM

Anyone else have really sucky brakes with the stock ESC when it is in forward-only mode? Without wheels touching the ground it stops them decent, but it does nothing on the ground, it just rolls to a stop. This the normal thing for the stock ESC's having bad brakes or do I need to look into replacing mine???

ducati777

10-23-2006, 01:46 PM

Yup signature of the stock esc, crap for brakes.

Good effort IB, always fun to read what you're up to. You might want to give Jamie at starluck a holler. He's made some excellent motor recommendations for me. He believes in lower kv, high voltage, and tall gearing. He's got me hooked.

ducati777

10-23-2006, 01:48 PM

Oh btw, hows the quark workin out? I heard it had troubles launching the car from a stop, and no or bad brakes. Can you give us your opinion on it?

Triple Tapper

10-23-2006, 01:49 PM

yeeehaw

10-23-2006, 04:08 PM

Ducati, I think it is the whole Idea of making a truck that is the size of your hand go 60+ when it is only designed to go 20. I even emailed a rep from Associated and he advised strongly against these systems and I know my truck has handeled it quite nicely, though it is time for new bearings.

smilinjohn

10-23-2006, 06:38 PM

Alrighty....you guys hitting 60+ MPH on these cars are NUTS!!!! :eek: I am green with envy though :D

Is there anyone using a Trinity Micro Monster in thier RC18? If so, any modifications needed to make it work?

:) I've run the Trinity 22t monster termination in mine (before going brushless) and it did fine just plug and play :wave:

IBJAMMIN

10-23-2006, 10:15 PM

Oh btw, hows the quark workin out? I heard it had troubles launching the car from a stop, and no or bad brakes. Can you give us your opinion on it?

The Quark ESC is great for high voltage set ups I had a problem at first trying to launch it from a stop on the cement it did instant donuts and was hard to control I fixed that by dialing down the throttle speed on my M8 radio. The brakes are no problem there is a few profiles you can chose while programing the people complaning about the brakes probably never tried the other profiles?. Programing the Quark ESC is easier then the Mamba without the castle link.

For everyday bashing and racing the Mamba with the castle link is the way to go it's easier to adjust and drive. The Quark is better suited for high voltage batteries and higher watt motors. :)

redhatman

10-24-2006, 07:04 AM

Well, basically I traded my evader st for an rc18t and we each had extras and all that junk. It was a rc18t, then got the big tires to be an rc18mt. I now added the wing and mount (For those wondering it is the rc10b4 wing mounts and the Mini Inferno wing). Now it is a RC18Truggy! haha, let me know what you think.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y271/redhatman/PA230181.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y271/redhatman/PA230182.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y271/redhatman/PA230183.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y271/redhatman/PA230184.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y271/redhatman/PA230185.jpg

TZona

10-24-2006, 08:27 AM

has anyone tried a futaba s3110 servo? is it a dtrect drop in? and i read somewhere orion was testing a mini bl setup. any word on when it will come out?

Triple Tapper

10-24-2006, 03:39 PM

IBJAMMIN...

Your setup is insane....however there is one issue I see with your car. Those Deans connectors have exposed terminals. I would hate to guess how much current you are pulling through those terminals at 80MPH. Just a FYI....maybe I am just too paranoid :)

ChuckDeez

10-24-2006, 03:54 PM

I don't think anything would happen. As long as the solder is underneath the heat shrink its fine.

ChuckDeez

10-24-2006, 05:48 PM

haha, I changed the look a bit. :)

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0002.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0001.jpg

HPI-Fan-4-Ever

10-24-2006, 08:41 PM

Hey anyone know where I can find some orange 1/10th touring rims to put on my 18T? I checked Tower and all they had were 6 spoke 1/8 orange buggy rims. If I dyed some white ones orange would it turn out the bright competition orange color I am looking for, or would rattle can paint adhere well enough? Been searching everywhere and can't seem to find them, but I've seen them on some Trinity cars and know they are out there! ARG.

wheeleze

10-25-2006, 01:51 PM

Rite dye is good stuff and they have a plethora of colors. Spray paint will chip off eventually...

Triple Tapper

10-26-2006, 02:34 PM

Are the stock speed controllers and recievers used for the RC18 series made by LRP?

redhatman

10-26-2006, 04:03 PM

Are the stock speed controllers and recievers used for the RC18 series made by LRP?

I dont think so, otherwise they would do like duratrax does and say "genuine futaba controller" except with LRP. It just says like how good the AE XPS is.

ChuckDeez

10-26-2006, 04:50 PM

what is better for racing? ib1200 or ib1400?

Triple Tapper

10-26-2006, 10:43 PM

Whats the best servo to use in the RC18?

I should clarify.....I have a Hitec HS81-MG from my Micro RS4 and it doesn't fit nicely w/o some mods. Anyone using the Futaba S3101 servo? Is the stock servo bad? The stock servo actually costs more then the S3101 at Tower! Any ideas/reccomendation would be helpful

Thanks

TZona

10-27-2006, 08:51 AM

i keep asking about the futaba ytoo but no answers, i think you mean s3110

Triple Tapper

10-27-2006, 09:19 AM

i keep asking about the futaba ytoo but no answers, i think you mean s3110

Nope I mean the S3101....you can see it here: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXH290&P=7

The stock RTR servo is this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJSP8&P=M

The servo you mention seems like it would work as well....I am also looking at a S3107.

I am going over to the LHS this weekend and checking them out. I will let you know what I find.

TZona

10-27-2006, 04:09 PM

CTRallyRacer

10-28-2006, 08:28 AM

what is better for racing? ib1200 or ib1400?

I haven't used the ib1400, I actually just picked up some Integy 1200s, and they are fantastic.... I run with MLSTs and Mini Infernos.... the stock RC18T with the Integy 1200s keeps up with everything (and passes most), the MLSTs are running the Losi Mod motors and the Inferno was running brushless (the only reason he didn't destroy me... was the track is rutted, but even so... I kept within 20ft of him full throttle).

Triple Tapper

10-28-2006, 10:01 AM

please do that, the s3107 is a direct drop in, the s3110 has the best specs and is close in size to the s3107. i want a s3110 but drop have a lhs anymore so i must mail order and dont want to if it wont fit

Just my luck, mu LHS didn't have the S3110 in stock, but I did pickup a S3107. As you say, its a direct drop in.....however it is tight. Unless the S3107 is exactly the same or smaller then the S3107, I don't think it will be a direct drop in....but you may be able to get it in with shaving down the servo holder piece.

Jeffy

10-28-2006, 09:45 PM

I think they plug them into an open slot in the reciever for power not sure I have never ran a fan?
that is correct u plug it into the receiver in one of the empty plugs

Jeffy

10-28-2006, 09:46 PM

Just my luck, mu LHS didn't have the S3110 in stock, but I did pickup a S3107. As you say, its a direct drop in.....however it is tight. Unless the S3107 is exactly the same or smaller then the S3107, I don't think it will be a direct drop in....but you may be able to get it in with shaving down the servo holder piece.
I have an hs 56 and it works great in my 18t

Jeffy

10-28-2006, 09:56 PM

F:\rc18 stuff\DSC02086.JPG

Jeffy

10-28-2006, 09:59 PM

hey i am new at this how do you post a picture?

smilinjohn

10-28-2006, 10:22 PM

Click the post tab scroll downto the Additional Options, in the second sub-catagory( attach files) click on the Manage attachments button, on the pop-up screen click brouse, select pic click open(make sure it's within the KB limit) there ya go
[IMG]

It's easy, the hard part is getting the image with in the KB limitations

Jeffy

10-28-2006, 10:37 PM

wheeleze

10-28-2006, 10:44 PM

hey thanks alot i will have pics of my rc18t soon but its not to good.i will soon be getting the rc18b kit and im gonna make a truggy or something. the 18t is fast stock but it gets boaring slow so wat is a good motor that will fit in without modifications?

I would suggest perusing the previous pages for a plethora of opinions.

Welcome to the forum :wave:

Jeffy

10-29-2006, 12:44 PM

here is my peice lol
DSC03891.JPG

smilinjohn

10-29-2006, 05:52 PM

hey thanks alot i will have pics of my rc18t soon but its not to good.i will soon be getting the rc18b kit and im gonna make a truggy or something. the 18t is fast stock but it gets boaring slow so wat is a good motor that will fit in without modifications?

:D Mamba is a good mod free drop in brushless motor you can get the motor/ESC packages for around $140 or so. There are so many benfits to going brushless.
:teacher:
1: almost matinance free, with no brushes to replace there's no comuntator to clean off, there fore you really only have to worry about keeping your bearings clean

2: They run cooler, heat generated = energy wasted= shorter run times. So with a BL system (depending on how it's geared) you can expect longer run times.

I average 40 minutes with my 1100 mah NiMh battery. Note my gear raito is 6 to 1, when I go 3 to 1 I only loose about 5 min of run time.

3: Speed, I don't have a brushed motor that can even come close to keeping up with my BL motor, my 13yr old won't even race any more :D At lest untill he gets a BL system for his car (christmass)

I'm only running a 5400 kv motor there are biger bader ones out there, but if it's to slow then BL is the way to go :cool: :wave:

bspate

10-29-2006, 08:39 PM

I thought I would post some pictures of my RC18T with its different outfits. It has a Mamba 6800kV with a Quark 25 ESC and 12/60 gearing most of the time. I bought some silver bling for it from eBay, but the guy gave me parts to a Mini-T instead!! I'll take some more pics when he sends me the right stuff.

Here it is with its street clothes on...

http://www.bspate.com/images/rc/18t-1.jpg

With his "gettin' dirty" clothes on...

http://www.bspate.com/images/rc/18t-2.jpg

With his, um......ugly clothes on??

http://www.bspate.com/images/rc/18t-3.jpg

Like usual......his big brother has to pick on him when he gets attention... :D

http://www.bspate.com/images/rc/18t-4.jpg

- bspate -

smilinjohn

10-29-2006, 11:32 PM

:( Poor little guy :(

redhatman

10-29-2006, 11:39 PM

ahhhaa, nice pics bspate. Just wondering, anyone use GP1100's? I know they are not the "new" thing anymore but they still seem to have a good reputation.

ChuckDeez

10-30-2006, 01:26 AM

nice truck you got there bspate :) i like the revo.

GP1100, I have them! they are really strong still and they don't quite last long obviously. But they do have punch. I rather get the IB1200 though, it has more punch.

IBJAMMIN

10-30-2006, 02:01 AM

I was looking around for some new motors today for the 18B and found some CRT conversions for truggys and decided to go with a brushless lipo set up in my CRT the wraith 7000kv motors wont be in stock till nov 3rd so i ordered a Neu 1515 2200kv motor with a Mamba max ESC with 2 2s 8000mah batteries see if I can give the nitro guys a run for there money with an electric CRT. :D

Hopefully I can find another wraith 7000kv motor for my 18b soon the only place I have found them is B-P-P.com does anyone know of another place to find them?

redhatman

10-30-2006, 07:12 AM

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0719.jpg

Who all has that heatsink on the mamba? Are they worth the $7 you pay for them?

Triple Tapper

10-30-2006, 09:23 AM

What gear ratio would you recommend for a short, tight track with the Trinity Micro Monster motor?

bspate

10-30-2006, 09:30 AM

Who all has that heatsink on the mamba? Are they worth the $7 you pay for them?
YES!!! It made my temperatures go from around 200 degrees (which is very bad) to around 140 degrees max!! It will allow you to run a little more aggressive gearing if you want.

For $7 (actually $11 with shipping), it is totally worth it!!

- bspate -

ChuckDeez

10-30-2006, 12:28 PM

YES!!! It made my temperatures go from around 200 degrees (which is very bad) to around 140 degrees max!! It will allow you to run a little more aggressive gearing if you want.

For $7 (actually $11 with shipping), it is totally worth it!!

- bspate -

yep yep! :D

redhatman

10-30-2006, 04:50 PM

great, I guess I will pick it up then. Thanks guys! So do i have to shave anything down? I saw a post saying you have to file one side down a bit?

ChuckDeez

10-30-2006, 05:27 PM

great, I guess I will pick it up then. Thanks guys! So do i have to shave anything down? I saw a post saying you have to file one side down a bit?

yeah that, if you have a FT motor mount you would have to shave some off of the sides like I did. If you don't, then do not worry, but the Sub chassis. The sub chassis can be cut or like someone has mentioned on here, was to put the openside of the heatsink facing the subchassis to clear it. I just carved the shape of my heatsink and I have never faced another problem with heating.

redhatman

10-30-2006, 06:29 PM

ok, well im planning on running GP1100's now. Is 6 cell fine or should I do 7 cell? I want it to still be fine without burning up the stock electronics if I pop those in. Anyone running GP1100's? If so, what speeds and performance are you getting?

smilinjohn

10-30-2006, 06:35 PM

YES!!! It made my temperatures go from around 200 degrees (which is very bad) to around 140 degrees max!!

:huh: What kind of gearing/ battery set-up are you using. Granted I'm only using a stock NimH batt, but my gearing is 4 to 1 (15t pinion/ 60t spur) and my mamba never comes close to reaching 200 degrees? :confused:

:wave:

Jeffy

10-30-2006, 06:37 PM

thanks i am going to get the 6800kv at christmas.

Jeffy

10-30-2006, 07:17 PM

hey what gearing should i have if i get the 6800kv mamba?

IBJAMMIN

10-30-2006, 11:13 PM

hey what gearing should i have if i get the 6800kv mamba?
A good place to start-
15/60 for the smaller 18t tires
12/60 for the larger monster tires or 10th scale touring tires

Gear to your motor and ESC temps if they start getting to hot go with a smaller pinion.

This has got to be the most asked question on any forum. There is a lot of factors that go into gearing your set up motors,ESC,batteries,heatsinks,tire size all have an effect on the pinion and spur choice along with outside temps. You have to find what works best for you and your set up and where your running at. :cool:

ChuckDeez

10-30-2006, 11:25 PM

I crashed mines today because I turned back to see if there were any cars to race and once I looked back at my rc18t, it was flying towards a wooden fence!! I ran quickly there and found it not moving. I ran back to my house to examine it and the plugs just unplugged itself. once I ran it, it sounded like I stripped the spur gear! I looked at one more time, and found out I was missing a dog bone. Pretty cool crashing at 25mph into a wooden fence and only thing that broke or was missing was a dog bone. I sure did get lucky!

ChuckDeez

10-31-2006, 03:42 PM

can I use lithium ion from my xmods onto my rc18t with a mamba ESC? I'm just wondering...

smilinjohn

10-31-2006, 05:19 PM

Pretty cool crashing at 25mph into a wooden fence and only thing that broke or was missing was a dog bone. I sure did get lucky!

:D These cars sure can take a beating. I drive the H*&! out of mine, it has taken more abuse than my mini-t ever did. :p

HPI-Fan-4-Ever

11-02-2006, 09:38 PM

:( :( :( Was at the track tonight, absolutely tearing it up, but apparently I'm a little too aggressive with the throttle, I think I burnt out my ESC, was comin' round a turn and the car just died. No feedback at all, so I took out the battery and it was 80% full still, plugged in my bud's battery and the LED on the ESC didn't even come on..... :( :( :( Running stock pinion, stock battery, stock ESC, and regular ole' foamies....anyone know why it'd burn up like this, or what it could possibly be????.......

smilinjohn

11-03-2006, 12:24 AM

the LED on the ESC didn't even come on..... :( :( :( Running stock pinion, stock battery, stock ESC, and regular ole' foamies....anyone know why it'd burn up like this, or what it could possibly be????.......

:confused: What kind of motor are you running as it's not on the list.

:teacher: Did you try letting it cool off, there's a thermal shut down feature built into the ESC, which takes about 3 to 5 minutes to reset. If you did how old is it if not very old contact AE they may (didn't for me but you may get lucky) replace it. I went brushless after mine failed, however I've got a new stock ESC from a truck I bought for parts, if you want I'd sell it cheap.

:eek: There have been a few of us who have experienced ESC failure, but others I've talked with and myself have all had smoke & flames when it failed. Not that it means anything. :wave:

Triple Tapper

11-03-2006, 09:05 AM

BIGDADDYV

11-03-2006, 12:06 PM

My ESC glitches constantly through the on/off switch ... you might try to check there ..... Other than that I am kinda clueless .....

HPI-Fan-4-Ever

11-03-2006, 02:49 PM

Forgot to mention I'm running stock motor too :confused: so everything is stock electronic and tire-wise. I guess it's just old, it seemed to start 'fading' for a few minutes then went kapoot. Now I have an excuse to get a brushless system :cool: :rolleyes:

IBJAMMIN

11-03-2006, 10:41 PM

OK....whats the secret to removing the ball joints? I am having a TERRIBLE time. I actually bent one of the Titanium rods that comes with the team edition. Scary part is that I bent it back without it snapping BY HAND! Any tips on removing these things would be greatly appreciated.

To make it easier drill a hole in the top of your ballcup's so you can stick a allen wrench through it and unscrew the ballstud without having to pop the ballcup off. everytime you pop them off they get weaker. :)

smilinjohn

11-04-2006, 09:18 AM

Now I have an excuse to get a brushless system :cool: :rolleyes:

:cool: Yea man a BL is great I got the mamba 25 with a 5400kv motor, I may not ever own a brushed motor system again. :wave:

ducati777

11-04-2006, 12:25 PM

To make it easier drill a hole in the top of your ballcup's so you can stick a allen wrench through it and unscrew the ballstud without having to pop the ballcup off. everytime you pop them off they get weaker. :)

Good tip man, didn't think of that.

Triple Tapper

11-04-2006, 08:55 PM

IBJAMMIN

11-04-2006, 11:58 PM

Thanks I found that tip on the forums not my idea just passing along the info. :)

slaf

11-06-2006, 10:14 PM

IBJAMMIN

11-07-2006, 12:06 AM

Cool tip !!! Can I add it to my web site ?? www.myrcbox.com ??

No problem like I said I'm just passing on the info. :D

I'm still waiting for a new Wraith motor for my 18B so I decided to try brushless on a larger scale I'm converting my Jammin CRT to electric power I cant wait to see the look on the nitro guys face when they get smoked by an electric CRT run time should be over 30 minutes with 2-2s 9000mah lipo's running 14.8volts :eek:

smilinjohn

11-07-2006, 01:22 AM

:cool: Nics pics, have someone take pics of the nitro guys faces when you do your drive by :driving:

Triple Tapper

11-07-2006, 04:00 PM

I found a nice overview for the mod IBJAMMIN enlightened us with: http://www.freewebs.com/crookedjracing/drillrodends.htm

redhatman

11-07-2006, 09:27 PM

well guys, got another mamba because i miss the one I had last time. Except this time I went with some good batteries (GP1100) I soldered up my own 7 cell pack and I have to say.... HOLY RC18!!!!!!!!! WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I drove it for the first time tonight and im pretty sure my heart sped up twice as fast when i saw it. Anyway, this thing will wheelie on command and already loosened up the diffs on its own. I may have to go to MIP to help keep them tight.

I just put the new wing on, then got the mamba and all, and now its all roughed up. :( It works as a kind of good wheelie bar, not to hold wheelies though.

ChuckDeez

11-07-2006, 09:59 PM

redhatman

11-07-2006, 10:18 PM

yup, very true. I got sick of tapping the throttle and suddenly going fast and flying into walls last year, and when i would go off the jump the wind would take it. For some reason i feel better about this one.

Who has tried/has the MIP diffs? What do you think about them?

ChuckDeez

11-07-2006, 10:26 PM

they're great! but if your okay with your stock diffs, then stick with them. I'm running MIP diff in the back and stock in the front. Never saw a drivetrain problem since then. I'm even running on stock dogbones. I'm running mamba 6800kV and IB's.

redhatman

11-07-2006, 10:33 PM

yup, i was thinking about doin that exact same thing cept the IB part, ive got GP's ;) I figured there isnt really any slipping in the front anyway, being they dont touch that much, and all the force goes to the back. Do you have stock differential balls, or the carbide ones? I like making my diff tight enough to wheelie, for best acceleration, will the stock balls hold up?

ChuckDeez

11-07-2006, 11:52 PM

I have carbide. I had the FT but I sold it. I kept some stuff.

redhatman

11-10-2006, 03:53 PM

Ok guys, as of now i love this rc18 lots more than my one of the past. This 7 cell GP1100 pack that I made sure is awesome. Non-Stop wheelies, im saying 35+mph at least.

Im considering maybe selling some of my other rc stuff and going to the max on this thing. What is a good, cheap lipo setup? I dont have a charger, but I could sell this one, and get one that does everything nimh, nicd, lipo... (I dont want to have to have a 12v power supply, want a standard wall outlet)

As far as batteries, i hear good things about 3s lipos in them. I dont want to have to cut the chassis up to fit a battery.

By the way, im running Mamba 6800 combo. Thanks!
-Pat

NitroCrackers

11-11-2006, 11:10 PM

BIGDADDYV

11-12-2006, 12:29 AM

ceramic bearings are AWESOME ..... :D sorry just had to add that

ChuckDeez

11-12-2006, 02:14 AM

I sold my rc18t for $250. I'm gonna go buy a REVO now. I'm gonna buy another rc18t later, and i'm going to make sure its either a B or R.

IBJAMMIN

11-12-2006, 03:59 AM

IBJAMMIN

nice rc18... just wondering why you are running a 7000kv motor when there are 8000kv? Mamba competition x? I havent run a brushless in a while except my novak setup in my emaxx so I dont really know much about them? and have you switched to ceramic bearings yet?

There is a 9200kv motor too but the Wraith 7000kv motor is a larger motor 300watt which means more torque and ability to pull taller gearing without overheating like the higher KV motors do under load they rev higher but you give up torque for RPM. At higher voltages the lower kv motors work better the 8000kv Mamba is over reving at 14.8 volts 90-100,000 RPM is about max for these little motors. :)

And yes I do run Ceramic bearings the stock ones only lasted for about 5 or 6 battery packs. :D

NitroCrackers

11-12-2006, 06:58 PM

where do you get wraith products? i didnt see any on ebay...

NitroCrackers

11-12-2006, 07:53 PM

thinking about selling my xray xb8 and picking one up for the winter. is there any real difference between the 18t and 18b? but the new street version looks kewl too which I know has some shorter suspension arms.

IBJAMMIN

11-12-2006, 08:02 PM

where do you get wraith products? i didnt see any on ebay...

Bishop Power Products www.B-P-P.com They also have the best deals on the Mamba systems and Quark ESC 5% off this weekend Vetrans day sale. :)

smilinjohn

11-12-2006, 08:34 PM

And yes I do run Ceramic bearings the stock ones only lasted for about 5 or 6 battery packs. :D

Do you have a link for those bearings??

Also does any one know if the Quark 33a ESC is PC programable??

Thanks :wave:

IBJAMMIN

11-12-2006, 08:58 PM

www.bocabearings.com is where I usually find all my bearing needs.

The Quark 33amp esc is not PC programable but it is very easy to program with the radio just not as many options like the Mamba with the link. :)

NitroCrackers

11-12-2006, 11:31 PM

smilinjohn

11-13-2006, 09:52 AM

i looked on acer racing, is there any difference between the 18t and 18b bearings?

they have a different set for the
-18t
-18b-factory 18t and b
-18 mt

Just wondring if I pick up the buggy if its going to be the same as the truck except for body and tires?

Their the same, for the most part all the parts are the same the biggest difference is the shock towers, bodies, & tires/wheels. But the shielding on the factory bearings is crap. But what do you expect for a factory part?

IB thanks for the link :D

redhatman

11-13-2006, 10:00 PM

www.bocabearings.com is where I usually find all my bearing needs.

WOW, i looked on there and under the ceramic bearing sets (where it says there the new "Holy Grail") Looks like your paying around $200 for a bearing set! W TF? thats more than the car! (thats for like the B4)

CAR) B4 SE ELECTRIC OFF ROAD #05-070BC 16 pieces $229.95

http://bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=showsearchforpage&cat=rccrossrefguide&pg=1&psg=10,48

HPI-Fan-4-Ever

11-13-2006, 10:02 PM

smilinjohn

11-13-2006, 11:09 PM

GEEZ finally got my parts in from thetoyz.com. First order for about $33 got lost and from the looks of it I'll never get it, being dragged around by USPS about insurance :( so I redid the order slightly different for about $40 and received the stinkin' thing in 1 day! Damn USPS........ :mad: $73 for a pinion set, steering link and battery pack!

Have you talked with RJ at the toyz? He's pretty helpful I've been getting good service from them, shipping has been the best.

As for that bearing link, are their any cheaper ceramic bearings than that anywhere? It tis a little steep

IBJAMMIN

11-14-2006, 01:33 AM

Ceramics are not cheap I think I paid around 80 bucks for mine. For everday bashing and off road you dont need them where they make the most difference is top speed unless your racing in a limitted class where every little bit helps or going for speed records dont waste your money stick with the cheaper bearings. :)

My 18b is about to get a big brother I'm almost done with my CRT brushless conversion the 9000mah packs came in today just waiting for some more parts so I can run it. :D

smilinjohn

11-14-2006, 08:54 AM

:D Lookin good there IB nice pics :D , and yea your right why dump all that money in to a beater truck. There's not a lot of tracks in my area, so that's what my 18t will be is a beater. I do however want to get something better than the rtr bearings, some of the ones in my mt have seized up before. I got them freed up and worked out but... I clean often enough to usually catch problems early but would still like something better. :wave:

nitro_newbie

11-14-2006, 08:27 PM

yuo could get the full force bearings there rubber sealed and are only 15 bux i believe. and BYT did a build up with them and said they were good.

HPI-Fan-4-Ever

11-15-2006, 10:46 AM

smilinjohn

11-15-2006, 03:29 PM

I saw swaybar sets (front and rear) on eBay from Atomic RC, but it says you need their front and rear suspension kits. Google won't load in my browser :mad: anyone have a link to their official site so I can see what I'd need for the kits? Thanks!

The one I found was not called a sway bar kit, but a roll bar kit. Here's the link. http://www.rcatomic.com/main/modules/tinycontent/index.php?id=9 :wave:

HPI-Fan-4-Ever

11-15-2006, 03:32 PM

Sweet, just what I was lookin' for, thanks!

crrider

11-16-2006, 04:23 PM

ChuckDeez

11-16-2006, 05:17 PM

hold up, I can find you a picture that can help you out greatly.

ChuckDeez

11-16-2006, 05:20 PM

here it is!

http://www.one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=26229

wheeleze

11-16-2006, 05:37 PM

Can someone help me please,I bought a FT RC18T and built and installed a mamba brushless motor esc package but I cant get the diffs tight enough to not slip.I am just asking if anyone has had this problem and know of a way to fix it.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance
Ron

You can go with the MIP Super Diff (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKBC2&P=ML), but don't forget to loctite the nuts.

redhatman

11-17-2006, 08:20 PM

Can someone help me please,I bought a FT RC18T and built and installed a mamba brushless motor esc package but I cant get the diffs tight enough to not slip.I am just asking if anyone has had this problem and know of a way to fix it.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance
Ron

sorry, didnt even see your post.

Basically, you can go the MIP route, or do what I did. I bought a MIP diff when this one goes out because i was having the same problem. I just superglued mine so it doesnt slip. Make sure you take out the balls and it works good. Dont forget to shim your diffs either.

ducati777

11-18-2006, 04:34 PM

Last night I felt like crap and tossed and turned all night. Today I'm better, but achy all over. If I sit on the couch for too long it just gets worse, so I figured I better get up and move around. The RC18T needed some work so I threw the lipo on the charger and got to work.

New rear diff. New input gears, outdrives, D rings, center screw, and I had to rebuild that crap TINY thrust bearing inside the diff. Lost one of the tiny balls and found it later, which meant I had to do it all over again. Finally got it looking good and the Lipo started beeping with almost perfect timing. Also used IB's tip and drilled the linkage cups so I don't have to pop them on and off next time.

Ran about a half hour before I broke it. Bounced it off a curb and the hinge pin popped out. No big deal, no actual broken parts, but that front bumper/hinge pin carrier will be replaced, its getting loose. Same thing ended my run last time out too.

Very happy with the car today. There's a good bit of leaves on the roads, and I could cruise through a pile of leaves at about 10mph, and punch it, the wheels would spool up to about 40mph, dig through the leaves, hit the pavement and I'd come wheelying outta the leaves. Makes me chuckle every time. I walked the perimeter of the apartment complex which is about a half mile, and had the lil car going all over the place. I always get comments on it.

With almost all new gears and bearings its running very smooth and fast. Just that tell tale brushless whistle and a little gear whine. All this pavement is hard on the tires though, I'm thinking I might go for a more pavement oriented setup with the next set of wheel/tires. Maybe try touring car wheels and lower the suspension.

I still feel like crap, but I don't ache as much after walking about. RC car combats a cold? Stranger things have happened....

BIGDADDYV

11-18-2006, 06:21 PM

Rc car combats 120 bucks a visit to my physical therapist .... TRUE TOOO TRUE . go to PT for 120 bucks a session or take a walk and use some free weights on my akles for come back forma back surgery .. Rc car keeps you from getting bored while you walk ..... rc18mt 150 bucks , 2 batteries 50 bucks, not having to go to the PT . PRICELESS .... :)

nitro_newbie

11-18-2006, 06:40 PM

redhatman

11-18-2006, 11:13 PM

smilinjohn

11-19-2006, 12:48 AM

i just noticed that mostly all the brushless 18t's strip the rear diff out. so would any of you think having the rear diff locked and shimmed help?? and would the more pronounced stress on the gears make it a down fall and has anyone down this yet?? thanx
nitro_newbie

:teacher: One good fix are MIPs supper diffs. The larger diameter on the gear flange doesn't allow the gear to flex as much that and boil your gears (diff & input) to make them less brittle. The other is what I do on my stock diffed mt, 4 shims gear side of the diff to push it tight against the input gear :wave:

ducati777

11-19-2006, 02:24 PM

Another gear killer is dirt. The diff casing have gaps above the bearings on the output shafts. I used to RTV mine and it kept it clean, but lately I'm too lazy.

NitroCrackers

11-19-2006, 04:26 PM

boil the mip gears? how long... lol, im still looking at this thing and its getting harder not to buy it!!!

How do you go about boiling them? I would think they would sink to the bottom and melt?

NitroCrackers

11-19-2006, 04:33 PM

http://cgi.ebay.com/RC18T-Spur-Pinion-Gear-COVER-for-the-RC-18T-18B-18MT_W0QQitemZ170051056618QQihZ007QQcategoryZ44028 QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

anyone tried one of those out?

ChuckDeez

11-19-2006, 04:38 PM

http://cgi.ebay.com/RC18T-Spur-Pinion-Gear-COVER-for-the-RC-18T-18B-18MT_W0QQitemZ170051056618QQihZ007QQcategoryZ44028 QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

anyone tried one of those out?

they help, but not to great. I have one and I sold it right away when I heard sand again. I sold it $20 shipped. lol

ducati777

11-19-2006, 06:21 PM

boil the mip gears? how long... lol, im still looking at this thing and its getting harder not to buy it!!!

How do you go about boiling them? I would think they would sink to the bottom and melt?

Use a collander to keep them off the very bottom, boil them for a bit, 5-10 minutes. I've done this with A arms, but not gears... interesting idea though.

NitroCrackers

11-19-2006, 06:56 PM

ibjammin

what are you doing for rx power?

IBJAMMIN

11-19-2006, 07:35 PM

ibjammin

what are you doing for rx power?

So far I have not had a problem with the Mamba or Quark ESC on 14.8 volts powering the reciever in the 18B no signs of heat or glitching so why ad the weight of an extra battery or UBEC. :)

BTW boiling the gears will make them softer and probably make them wear out faster then the stock gears not a good idea. :huh:

If your having diff gear problems you are doing something wrong the gear mesh is to tight or to loose or your running the diff to loose causing friction and heat in the diff and destroying the gears. If you want a bulletproof diff get the MIP outdrives and a set of carbide diff balls spend a little extra time making sure there shimmed right on the pinions and they should last for a long time with an adjustment to the diff screw for wear every couple of packs. :)

nitro_newbie

11-19-2006, 10:18 PM

well when i saw my stripped diff gear it was only like bent teeth and in some other places it was fine i think the shiming thing would work. the reason i asked was because my diff got melted and formed a locker(dont know how it happened) it popped wheelies but guessing that the mesh was off the strees from the brushless and bigger tires plus the sub -c cell pack tore it up but the fron one looks good but 2morrow ima shim them. so 4 shims on the gaer side should be enough you say??thanx for the help appreciate it alot
Rene

HPI-Fan-4-Ever

11-20-2006, 09:53 PM

nitro_newbie

11-21-2006, 12:49 AM

well i fixed the 18t and now it has 2 lockers front and rear with 3 shims on each. the front was loose and wasnt getting power if it had some drag but i added some glue and bam !!!! 4x4 again. now it pops wheelies all the time cant keep it on the ground. but is screams and even with the lockers it seems way faster than before. and its only a 5400 on 6 cel sub c pack but i did have a hot motor prob the first time i went to use it today so ima figure out hw to mount my fan. also i had a question would a 7 cell 1400mah micro pack produce enough power to match the sub c cell pack???thanks alot
Rene

redhatman

11-21-2006, 06:59 AM

How are you running a 6 cell sub c pack? Pics?

ducati777

11-21-2006, 02:21 PM

I just put on the steering link from DP off of thetoyz.com, and it did an excellent job of removing the slop of the stock linkage arm, but the servo arms themselves still wiggle quite a bit. How can I fix that? I think it's the servo saver spring, it seems loose, if I took it off and pinched it smaller with plyers would it tighten them up? It is REALLY loose...... thanks!

Pinching it won't do much, the stock spring is plastic and will just return to its usual shape. The 3 racing drag link came with a steel sleeve to firm up the stock spring. But that sleeve locked it up and then i started stripping servo gears. I ended up cutting it down to only about 1/16th of an inch, and that firmed up the steering but was still softer enough to save the gears.

Play around, I used a lil zip tie around the horn to lock it up, worked for a while, but like the steel sleeve, a good hard hit will strip the gears.

nitro_newbie

11-21-2006, 08:47 PM

How are you running a 6 cell sub c pack? Pics?
well all i did was move the esc to the original battery location and the mounted the cells right on the center thing that hooks the dif cases together and ziptied it to there. i had to trim the body some what in the fron and on the back to make it fit ill try to get some pictures later after camera charges up but ima get new batteries so that way its lighter and the motor could keep cooler because i noticed that it was hotter. i wanted to know if these baterries were good http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/main.asp?sid=653000&pgid=loosecells there the elite 1500 i was wondering about those. anygood? thanx
rene

IBJAMMIN

11-21-2006, 10:36 PM

Pinching it won't do much, the stock spring is plastic and will just return to its usual shape. The 3 racing drag link came with a steel sleeve to firm up the stock spring. But that sleeve locked it up and then i started stripping servo gears. I ended up cutting it down to only about 1/16th of an inch, and that firmed up the steering but was still softer enough to save the gears.

Play around, I used a lil zip tie around the horn to lock it up, worked for a while, but like the steel sleeve, a good hard hit will strip the gears.

I had the same problem with the stock steering set up the Hitec HS56 servo worked great when I upgraded to the 3 racing steering with the metal servo saver sleeve it broke the servo gears on the first crash :(

If you want a no slop almost bulletproof steering set up here is what you need-
Hitec HS65mg servo
3Racing aluminum steering set up with bearings and spring sleeve
3Racing aluminum servo mount
DP draglink

I have found the Hitec HS65mg servo with the metal gears and more torque to be the best fix no more striped servo gears and with the 3 Racing 1pc servo mount mounting it is alot easier with a little filling to make it fit over the wider servo. :)

HPI-Fan-4-Ever

11-22-2006, 05:41 PM

What's a price on that Hitec servo? I had plans on getting the aluminum mount and servo setup eventually, just tryin' to balance my self-Santa spending against stuff for my family and girlfriend :huh: nice lookin' setup though!

smilinjohn

11-23-2006, 12:15 PM

boil the mip gears? how long... lol, im still looking at this thing and its getting harder not to buy it!!!

How do you go about boiling them? I would think they would sink to the bottom and melt?

:p Sorry I'm so late getting back to this but... You boil the water in the microwave, or a pan, then when it comes to a boil take the water off the heat source, THEN you place the gears in the water, let the water cool, remove, dry and install.

BTW boiling the gears will make them softer and probably make them wear out faster then the stock gears not a good idea.

:teacher: The gears are made of delrin plastics which are very brittle from the molding process, boiling them makes them less brittle, more tolerant to and resilient from the torsion forces created in the drivetrane. I went through gears by chipping teeth (no debris in the diff case) on my input and diff gears, the set I've got in now, the ones I boiled have yet to give out going on 3 months of daily hard driven bashing now. :wave:

NitroCrackers

11-23-2006, 12:39 PM

another question :D

I saw a 51t spur on ebay and the auction is over now... does anyone knows who made it and if anyone makes a smaller one?

NitroCrackers

11-23-2006, 12:40 PM

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=144_621_831&products_id=12578&osCsid=8d54127b6652d3c48db6dea47c613a5b

found it

HPI-Fan-4-Ever

11-23-2006, 05:35 PM

Big 18th scale indoor racing championships coming to my area! Not sure what they are exactly, maybe state or regional championships or something, will be at Indy Slots right on Emerson St. off of 465 here in good ole' Indianapolis.....anyone know about it or going? And my bud and his girlfriend are getting 2 plane tickets to go to Connecticut for the other big 18th scale racing :( lucky bastard!

RCfroman

11-23-2006, 11:36 PM

wow, havent been here in a while. I need to get my rc18 up and running again... anyone do carpet racing with their 18t? I've been thinking about doing it, i already have carped tires for it that I got off of ebay for 5 bucks in perfect condition. I still need to get a brushless system though, i was meaning to get one. Well, i'm back to driving this thing again. :)

NitroCrackers

11-24-2006, 12:02 AM

I CANT FIND DP PRODUCTIONS :( I want that drag link...

RCfroman

11-24-2006, 12:03 AM

d-p-p.com

redhatman

11-24-2006, 12:06 AM

d-p-p.com

maybe www.b-p-p.com ???

NitroCrackers

11-24-2006, 12:12 AM

i dont think thats it.. whoever makes it, its the derline drag link that eliminates most of the steering slop... ? help

NitroCrackers

11-24-2006, 12:17 AM

http://cgi.ebay.com/Free-Shipping-HV-4-5-Novak-Brushless-Emaxx-e-maxx_W0QQitemZ270058937969QQihZ017QQcategoryZ44028 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

once this sells, my rc18t will be on the way... along with some other stuff =D

I would really like to find a link to those steering links so I can purchase everything at once.. Im still looking, I know its sumwhere in this thread

found it http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=7421&cat_name=RC18T

now i just gotta figure out when they will be back in stock

RCfroman

11-24-2006, 12:15 PM

maybe www.b-p-p.com ???
oh, that's the one i was thinking of, never mind

I have the link to that place somewhere around here...

oh yeah, http://www.drivenpro.net/index.php?s=store&pn=102

RCfroman

11-24-2006, 12:39 PM

Hey, which one do you guys think would be better for an indoor carpet track? A mamba 5400 or a 6800? Pics of the track are here: http://www.boiserc.net/Gallery/index.php?cat=14

It might not show the whole track...

NitroCrackers

11-24-2006, 12:46 PM

ill go out on a limb and say the 5400 is all you really need for a micro.... especially if you are going to run lipo, it will have all the torque you need and Im sure top end will be up there with everyone else

RCfroman

11-24-2006, 01:34 PM

I have found the Hitec HS65mg servo with the metal gears and more torque to be the best fix no more striped servo gears and with the 3 Racing 1pc servo mount mounting it is alot easier with a little filling to make it fit over the wider servo. :)
Is that servo a direct drop in? Or do you have to do some mods to make it fit?

And thanks Nitrocrackers. :)

NitroCrackers

11-24-2006, 02:32 PM

I dont know, I want to know myself though because, I just ordered my RC18 with that servo and a few other goodies... I dont think it will be running until next year though, since I still have alot to do to it :D

Maxx42

11-24-2006, 02:40 PM

Is that servo a direct drop in? Or do you have to do some mods to make it fit?

And thanks Nitrocrackers. :)

I just got that servo about 2 weeks ago. You can install it using the included servo mounts if you wish. There aren't any mods necessary. The performance you'll get is much better than the stock servo - much more torque and it seemed to track straighter when going at high speeds. Make sure that you get the correct servo saver with it. I'm using the hitec saver that associated makes and it works well. Also I use the draglink steering upgrade.

IBJAMMIN

11-24-2006, 04:39 PM

The HS65mg servo is 1mm wider then the stock size servos so you have to file the inside of the mount on both sides so it fits over the servo. The 3Racing aluminum mount comes drilled and threaded on the side for the for the servo to bolt right up to it you will have to drill the stock plastic mount to bolt the servo up to the mount. You will also need a longer servo screw dont waste your time trying to find a metric screw 2.3mm is a freak size but a STD 2-56 machine screw works fine. You also need the Associated Hitec servo saver kit. thats about it I would also recomend a DP drag link to eliminate the slop in the steering. :)

BTW if your looking for DP products TheToyz.com is the place to go if they show it out of stock try Thetoyz EBAY store you can find the parts there also. :)

NitroCrackers

11-24-2006, 05:01 PM

thanks, I was able to get one from thetoyz.com... he let me buy one from is personal project which, is kewl :cool:

trailranger

11-24-2006, 06:58 PM

HAS ANYONE TRIED TAPPING THE SERVO HORN TO BE 2.5MM? I'VE TAPPED A HITEC SERVO TO BE 4-40 ON MY TC3, BUT IT WAS ALUMINUM, AND i DON'T IF THIS IS TITAINIUM.

RCfroman

11-24-2006, 11:39 PM

Who makes good carbon fiber/graphite chassis? And who makes the best adjustable aluminum shocks out there, or really good ones?

redhatman

11-25-2006, 12:39 AM

as far as the chassis, ive heard the diggity designs one is good.

Shocks... dont know.

NitroCrackers

11-25-2006, 01:25 AM

I think alot of people are running the factory shocks upside down, its supposed to help with the oil leakage alot of mini shocks have...

redhatman

11-25-2006, 09:31 AM

I think alot of people are running the factory shocks upside down, its supposed to help with the oil leakage alot of mini shocks have...

yea, ive heard that also. technically it also gives you a lower center of gravity as well.

NitroCrackers

11-25-2006, 11:40 AM

IBJAMMIN

11-25-2006, 03:15 PM

IBjammin

have you run the quark/wraith setup with 1/10 tc wheels? and what spur/pinion does it like to run with and what do you use for speed runs?

hahaha, sorry for all the questions, but it looks like your on the right path with your setup :D Hope you dont mind if mine turns out looking like yours, LOL copying is the highest form of flattery :roll2:

Well I have found the Wraith motor cant be run with a 4s lipo 14.8volts is to much for the Wraith motor. :( I thought the first motor snapping the pinion shaft was caused by a bad pinion alignment the back of the motor was hitting the chassis I fixed that and installed a new Wraith motor and after about 10minutes the 2nd motor snapped the pinion shaft.:( so I guess the search is still on for a better motor for speed runs.

I'm not going to give out my spur pinion sizes till after the next worlds fastest rc car contest for obvious reasons I built my 18B to get the record I have spent to much time and money testing different spur pinion combo's on various motor and ESC combo's to just give that info to the competition. :rolleyes:

RCfroman

11-25-2006, 04:48 PM

Is this the same pack that ducati talked about a while back that's a perfect fit for the rc18? http://www.starluckrc.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=40_41_61&products_id=107
And has anyone tried the shocks that BRP makes? Are they any good?
And would that be good for a mamba 5400? One more thing, would ib1400 6 cells run any good with the 5400?

sorry so many questions :p

RCfroman

11-25-2006, 06:26 PM

Well I have found the Wraith motor cant be run with a 4s lipo 14.8volts is to much for the Wraith motor. :( I thought the first motor snapping the pinion shaft was caused by a bad pinion alignment the back of the motor was hitting the chassis I fixed that and installed a new Wraith motor and after about 10minutes the 2nd motor snapped the pinion shaft.:( so I guess the search is still on for a better motor for speed runs.

I'm not going to give out my spur pinion sizes till after the next worlds fastest rc car contest for obvious reasons I built my 18B to get the record I have spent to much time and money testing different spur pinion combo's on various motor and ESC combo's to just give that info to the competition. :rolleyes:
You could always go with 2 brushless motors, i dont know what motors you'd use though because you're using a 4s lipo. You'd have to use a brushless esc that could work with two motors and one battery though, i dont know where you'd find one of those. Or maybe two esc's, but that probably wouldnt fit...

Just an idea

NitroCrackers

11-25-2006, 07:56 PM

I had no idea you were gonna be in the challange... lol, I wont be attending it unless its on the east side and even then, well its jut to far off for me to prodict rightnow.

I wanted to run 4s lipo since Iv seen it run and it looks NUTS.. if the wraith cant handel it I wonder if the mamba 6800 would and thats not as powerful is it?

cougarfan09

11-26-2006, 12:06 AM

iv got a 6800 kv mamba and a 2s lipo and foam tires, im kinda wondering though, people were talking about wheelies and i am yet to see one

ps im running on asphalt so traction isnt a problem

IBJAMMIN

11-26-2006, 01:08 AM

The 6800 Mamba is a great choice for 14.8volts I have never had a problem with this set up. All around on a 2s7.4v 3s11.1v or 4s14.8v lipo's I think the Mamba 6800 combo is the most versital with great results on all voltages vers the higher KV motors. :D

Lets see if I cram 2 9000mah 2s lipo packs and a Mamba max motor in there it's gota do a 100 at least right? I dont think multiple motors is the answer space is already tight with a 4s lipo. I think lower KV motors are going to be the key to get up to speeds in the 90mph+ range. :eek:

nitro_newbie

11-26-2006, 02:40 AM

wow thats crazy ibjammin were are going to get a body tha fits??haha how fast do you thnk the setup goes right now with the 6800 and 4sm lipo??

NitroCrackers

11-26-2006, 02:43 AM

from what i understand, a low KV motor with a TON of cells is going to be able to pull the tallest gearing up to around 100k (motor rpm) its just finding a controller that can handle the voltage :confused:

redhatman

11-26-2006, 11:20 AM

IBJAMMIN

11-26-2006, 05:19 PM

nope, the motors have their limits as well.

I know 2 Wraiths later :( but hey they say speed is a matter of money how fast do you want to go? :D

chestnut007

11-26-2006, 05:35 PM

"speed is a matter of money how fast do you want to go?"

best quote, ever

Hugh

11-27-2006, 02:06 AM

My RC18T Brushless Package 4 sale http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=229364
Nice package. Everything is in excellent shape and I'm open to reasonable offers.

ducati777

11-27-2006, 02:12 PM

NitroCrackers

11-27-2006, 05:12 PM

so with a 5400 can i get into the 60mph rang with a 4c lipo and the right gearing?

RControl Freak

11-27-2006, 06:08 PM

Hey, just a quick question: which do you think is better: the RC18T, or Mini-T? (I REALLY want to go brushless!)

NitroCrackers

11-27-2006, 06:34 PM

dont have my rc18 yet but, Im sure its better. My mini-T was always fallin apart...

RControl Freak

11-27-2006, 06:37 PM

great, thanks! (My friend has the Mini-T, and that sucker has the mamba comp x, along with a lipo, that thing hauls, but he can't control it! :D

NitroCrackers

11-27-2006, 06:58 PM

yea, i had a 6800 2c mini t.. it was fast as hell but it just had to many problems. Looks like as long as you shim the diffs (and maby boil the gears) on this truck, you should be good to go :D

Just went out to my mailbox and got ONE part of my RC18... a DP drag link from TheToyz.com, now I reall cant wait for my kit to arrive

RControl Freak

11-27-2006, 07:01 PM

yeah, if i were to go brushless, should I just buy the factory team kit, and then the brushless, 'cause I already have a remote that I can use!

NitroCrackers

11-27-2006, 07:11 PM

thats what I did, and I went with the hitec 65mg servo and mip super diffs... I do need to pick up the AE hitec servo saver kit though, its only 3 buks

RControl Freak

11-27-2006, 07:14 PM

yeah, I just got an Airtronics MX-3 off ebay for around 60 bucks! :D

IBJAMMIN

11-27-2006, 07:20 PM

NitroCrackers

11-27-2006, 07:29 PM

Can I get the same speed out of the 5400 as I can out of the 6800 with the right gearing change? If I can hit the 65-70mph with the 5400 on 4c lipo and get longer run times, Im all for that :D

RControl Freak

11-27-2006, 07:34 PM

The MAH capacity of the packs is what determins the runtime the number of cells has nothing to do with runtime. I have a 2s and a 4s 2100mah Maxamps lipo pack and they both get about the same runtime with the Mamba 6800 about 40minutes.

FYI here is what I found out with runtimes using the same 4s 2100mah pack in my 18b-

Mamba 6800kv= around 40min+-
Mamba 8000kv= around 30min+-
Wraith 7000kv= around 25min+-

how agressive were you driving?

IBJAMMIN

11-27-2006, 07:43 PM

Can I get the same speed out of the 5400 as I can out of the 6800 with the right gearing change? If I can hit the 65-70mph with the 5400 on 4c lipo and get longer run times, Im all for that :D

I dought it when you go lower on the KV you need to up the voltage the 5400 will spin around 80000rpm on 14.8volts and the 6800 spins around a 100000rpm on 14.8volts. you would have to go up to a 18.5volt 5s lipo to get the 5400 to spin the same rpm as the 6800 on 14.8volts. :D

NitroCrackers

11-27-2006, 07:48 PM

but the gearing changes can help cant they? I see there is a very wide spectrum of gearing options for this thing

18.5? wonder what would happen to the esc :huh:

IBJAMMIN

11-27-2006, 07:51 PM

how agressive were you driving?

full throttle runs up and down the street with speeds in the 45-60mph range

IBJAMMIN

11-27-2006, 07:55 PM

but the gearing changes can help cant they? I see there is a very wide spectrum of gearing options for this thing

18.5? wonder what would happen to the esc :huh:

20000rpm is alot to make up with the gearing. :)

NitroCrackers

11-27-2006, 07:56 PM

wish I had all the gear ratios and the formula to calculate this out. I believe you that 20000 rpm is alot to make up, but I want to see how many teeth on the pinion that would be :D

if you dont mind, want to talk on AIM? BrushlessB4 is my screen... needles to say I dont have that car anymore, lol. My MSN is nitrocrackers@hotmail.com or comcast.net >.< I dont quite remember.

IBJAMMIN

11-27-2006, 08:51 PM

Go to www.gearchart.com the trans ratio is 2.5 same as the TC3 and TC4 you can input tire size RPM spur and pinion and get some usefull info back like speed charts. :teacher:

RControl Freak

11-27-2006, 09:02 PM

huh, these gearings sound like serious business :D

NitroCrackers

11-27-2006, 09:05 PM

ahah, roughly 20k rpm = 3 teeth on the pinion... actually a little more but one more tooth is too much and you need to go up on the spur one or two teeth to be even. If this chart says I can hit 73.16mph at 79920rpm on the motor, how close am I going to be? how much does arodynamics, friction and all that stuff going to affect it? is it reasonable to say I will hit 65mph? lol

edit: anyone have a link to the wheelbase mod? flipping the arms or sumtin :confused:

RCfroman

11-27-2006, 10:44 PM

NitroCrackers

11-28-2006, 12:32 AM

3s is probably going to need modding no matter what. I will strap mine in, but I dont have the stock chassis. but battery straps will probably be your friend :)

redhatman

11-28-2006, 06:50 AM

you can go with the hyperion 1200 3s pack and it fits with no mods, I am also pretty sure the 1500 works that way also.

ducati777

11-28-2006, 02:48 PM

I'll be using a 3s with the 5400, it's just i dont know where to find the 3s that will actually fit without mods... Where can you find the 3s version?

Yup yup, polyquest 1800 mah 3s lipo fits without mods. You gotta back the battery posts out a couple turns but thats it.

Jamie at StarluckRC has been my hookup. Good guy, board member, I recommend him. I just checked his site and he doesn't have it listed, but if you PM him, I'm sure he has something.

The MAH capacity of the packs is what determins the runtime the number of cells has nothing to do with runtime. I have a 2s and a 4s 2100mah Maxamps lipo pack and they both get about the same runtime with the Mamba 6800 about 40minutes.

I strongly disagree! Mostly cause I didn't explain myself fully. Mambas are a good example, because the motors are all the same except they have a different number of windings inside, thus different KV, and thus they pull different amp loads.

If you put the 8k on a single lipo cell, it'll turn 25000 rpm or so. And pull a bunch of amps, that single cell will be dead in no time. Now lets take the 4200 kv mamba, and run it on 2 cells, same MAH. That motor will also turn about 25000 rpm, you'll get very similar performance, but you'll get a much much longer run time.

BECAUSE... the lower kv motor is pulling less amps, thus those lil MAH's go a lot further. In your example the system went half speed on 2 cells compared to 4 cells... I'm arguing if you keep the overall performance the same, more cells of equal mah will run longer.

So what I'm saying is if you run a 8000kv mamba on 2 cells, it's pretty damn fast. But the 5400 on 3 cells is roughly the same performance, but you'll get about 50% MORE runtime out of it. Which is yet again why I think high voltage and low KV is the way to go.

The other nice benefit is lower KV motors cog a lot less because the higher winding count gives off more induction for the ESC to read. Thus you could go 8000 mamba on 2 cells and maybe have a coggy beast. Or you could go 5400 mamba on 3 cells and get silky smooth launches with no cogging.

Whiskey 1

11-28-2006, 06:59 PM

What is cogging?

IBJAMMIN

11-28-2006, 11:33 PM

Yea high volts, low KV, big gears. The all out winner of the competition this year used a 1800 kv motor I think.

@RCfroman: The 5400 on 3s kicks butt. On 2s, you'll probably want to run the 6800. Remember though, 3s on low kv gets some sick run times too, the 3s holds 50% more energy than the 2s....

The way you worded it in your original post you are saying the number of cells gets you more runtime but infact it's the lower KV of the motor that is increasing the runtime not the change from 2s7.4v to 3s11.1v. :confused:

I have found with my 18B that with the same motor 6800kv Mamba and a 2s7.4v2100mah pack you will get about the same runtime with a 4s14.8v2100mah pack the voltage doesn't make a diference in runtime. Change the motor to the higher 8000kv Mamba and you lose about 10 minutes in runtime with both packs because of the higher amp draw of the motor. A lower KV motor on any voltage will get better runtime because it draws less amps then the higher KV motors.

lower KV and higher voltage is the only way to pull taller gearing at 100000rpm whats next a 5s18.5v 5100kv? stay tuned it's in the works. :eek:

NitroCrackers

11-29-2006, 12:59 AM

uhuh ;)

any idea on what esc your going to try that on?

RControl Freak

11-29-2006, 04:22 PM

uh...... i think ill try it on a traxxas xl-1! (sarcastic!) :D

NitroCrackers

11-30-2006, 06:27 PM

RControl Freak

11-30-2006, 06:34 PM

I'd be hesitant about putting thread lock on anything in or on a ball diff.... and yeah, I know that ball diffs can be a pain to assemble!

RCfroman

11-30-2006, 08:42 PM

life goes on.....
without your remarks... ;)

RControl Freak

11-30-2006, 09:06 PM

uh.... yeah, sorry about that, that was a quick post, I was on the phone with a friend, and wasn't thinking right. Sorry, that was kida rude of me.... :o

RCfroman

11-30-2006, 09:18 PM

uh.... yeah, sorry about that, that was a quick post, I was on the phone with a friend, and wasn't thinking right. Sorry, that was kida rude of me.... :o
oh, well i was only kidding anyway :p

IBJAMMIN

11-30-2006, 10:06 PM

this stinks, i lost 1 diff ball, 2 thrust bearing balls and a MIP nut... I hate it when people bother you while your building a kit :mad: and spring loaded needle nose pliars :roll2:

should i put a small dot of blue threadlock on the MIP nuts for the diff?

I should be able to get some replacements at my LHS

Yes you need to put a small dab of blue locktite on the nut's in the MIP metal diff's if you dont they will loosen up. :rolleyes:

Tech Tip anytime you open up the diff's do it over a paper plate if anything falls out it just falls into the plate. When you are trying to put the diff balls and thrust balls in take a small screwdriver or allen wrench tip and magnatize it not to much just enough to pick up the balls it makes it alot easier to install them. :)

Prinler4256

11-30-2006, 11:23 PM

would my BL from my air planes work with the rc18? its a 370 can. What ya think? gear it low? hehe

NitroCrackers

11-30-2006, 11:33 PM

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/2514/dscf2057fb2.jpg

there she is right now, long way to go but, im enjoying every minute of it :D

only three wheels on it right now becuase I cross threaded one of the wheel nuts :mad: ... Ive built a few kits since I have been in the hobby, but mostly dealt with eigth scale, not use to these tiny threads :roll2: and I have fat fingers :D

¯-_Josh_-¯

12-01-2006, 01:43 AM

Come on, come all to the greatest RC Sale! FullForce RC is proud to start their Christmas sale early this year. Now is your time to take advantage on these sweet deals!

Look for hop-ups for your

- RC18(B,T,MT)
- Mini-T
- Mini-LST
- Kyosho Mini Inferno
- Maxx Trucks
- Savage

Also you can get some sweet combo deals for the Mini-T and RC18T. Take a look at
FullForce RC (www.fullforcerc.com)