Team Associated RC18T Forum

[krimo]

Thanks for the info HPI-Fan-4-Ever.

The clear explanations are really helpful. Hopefully my post aren't too long. :D I'm still a novice when it comes to posting. Are the steel bevel and diff gears in your brushless rig?

Thus far I've upgraded with: integy aluminum steering arm, 3Racing threaded shocks...mine started leaking, DP gear cover, MIP outdrives, carbide diff balls, RPM big bumper, and integy heat sink.

My driving needs work, haha, so I've focused on chassis upgrades to reduce the damage of those big hits.

My outdrives loosened after about 5 or 6 packs. I was running the stock setup as well. I'll try running the outdrive screw closer to full lock although I'm concerned my speeds won't be as high because of the increased friction.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Yeah the steel gears are in my brushless race truck. Be sure to go titanium or hardened steel, I've heard stories of people bending and stripping aluminum ones.

Have you gone with turnbuckles yet? Lunsford's titanium are the size of baseball bats and are literally bombproof! AE's stock steel ones can be broken with a hard hit but are still better than plastic and are dirt cheap.

Your 3Racing shocks leaking?!?!? I've had mine for 3 months now racing AND bashing and haven't even needed to add a drop of oil. :confused::confused:

Do you mean your diffs loosened? Tightening your diffs won't scrub off speed in straight lines because it doesn't add any friction to the drivetrain but only to the differential plates and balls, but you may be a little "slower" in turns due to less slip. If anything tightening your diffs will give your truck a little more bottom end punch because your drivetrain won't slip with high initial throttle input, ESPECIALLY with LiPo's and hot-charged NiMh packs. Good for the gears? Technically no if you do a stop-and-go-hard a thousand times. But if you punch it while rolling (coming out of a turn for instance) or be careful with your finger then it won't cause any damage.

Hope this helps!

[krimo]

Yes my diffs did loosen. I'll try running them tighter. My 3Racing shocks are are good, no leaks. I really like them. It was the stock shocks that started leaking.

I heard about Lundsford turnbuckles and I plan on getting some. I'm trying to figure out whether I should get MIP CVDs and keep my stock suspension arms or to go with the wide track conversion kit which includes CVDs and aluminum arms.

Have you damaged/broken either the stock caster block, hub carrier, or steering block such that you replaced them with aluminum pieces. And, if you did go aluminum are you happy? I'm just trying to figure out what to get next for my basher and leave the non-critical stuff off the list for the time being.

I really dig the aluminum upgrade parts that are available but I'm not sure if I need to buy aluminum replacements for all my stock suspension parts.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

The widetrack conversion would be good for bashing and off-road racing.

I never damaged the stock suspension components you mentioned, but some other people did so I was putting on aluminum to be sure.

HOWEVER... I had trouble with screws staying in the steering arms, tried threadlocking them but then it would bind them up. Also on the rear hub one of my ball studs stripped out so that ruined it. So I went back to stock parts! The only part that didn't give me trouble was the aluminum caster blocks, which I kept on.

They aren't really needed but they certainly don't hurt, and look nice :D

[krimo]

Thanks HPI.

I think I'll go for the widetrack conversion. I'll definitely consider the other hub and steering block upgrades after I've gotten some brushless power installed.

Have you attempted a bearing upgrade? Obviously, the low friction and high reliability is really beneficial but the price for Acer's sealed bearings is pretty stout. I'm sure the cost is justified for most circumstances, I just have find the reason for my truck! :D

What's your feelings about a graphite chassis upgrade? I wonder if after serious sustained bashing whether the graphite starts to "fray" on the edges such that a bead of epoxy along the exterior is necessary?

By the way, the TEK-18 chassis conversion kit looks killer! However, the need to change to saddle packs at the same time is even more costly. I wonder if off-road pilots make the TEK-18 change or is it primarily road racers who do it?

Do you have any experience with aluminum diff cases? Do they help reduce the need for shimming?

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Yessir I bought new bearings about 3 weeks ago. AMAZING difference. I didn't buy Acer's, but I can't remember what brand I did get. The price wasn't bad, like $14 for the set. With as crappy as the old bearings were it was almost the best $14 I ever spent on the truck. :cool:

I'm not sure about the graphite for bashing, I have GPM's on my truck and I would never bash with it just for worry of scratching or ruining it. Just my opinion though, I haven't actually put it through the test. :teacher:

Yes the TEK18 is sick! BUT I don't need the extra wheelbase because of the small track I race on. Is that chassis compatible with LiPo's or do you have to do something special? :confused:

I borrowed a friend's 2s LiPo yesterday and the difference was insane. My NiMh is plenty fast for racing (placed second by only 9 seconds) and makes the truck easier to control, but the explosive speed of LiPo is way faster but makes the truck a bit harder to control. And the wheelies look awesome. So I'm trying to decide between the lesser of two evils haha :D

Aluminum diff cases made a difference for me. I didn't have to shim my diffs at all (MIP), even bought a shim kit for nothing, and I don't have to worry about destroying the cases or anything with the torque of brushless. And it looks cool, seems like the bearings seat a little better too :cool:

[krimo]

I'll look for a cheaper alternative to Acer.

The TEK18 batteries are relocated to the rear of the chassis. It is Lipo compatible but you have to use "saddle pack" style battery packaging. Here's MaxAmps saddle pack for the TEK18.

http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-1720-74-Saddle.htm

It's funny their website lists this Lipo 3300mah 2S3P 7.4V Saddle Battery Pack for the RC-18 without mentioning anything about the TEK18 conversion in the advertisement. I wouldn't think you'd be able to use saddle packs without a TEK18 conversion.

Second place with NiMH is a fine performance. I just checked OC R/C Raceway (in Ca) to see the class breakdown. The 4wd Modified class looks intimidating. :(

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Well knowing that LiPo's are a drop-in for the TEK18 make it that much more enticing, but I don't like the $99.99 list price on one battery when I can buy good "stick" style packs that will fit it now for around $30 or so.

So I'd pay $200 for a chassis and LiPo...

Which is funny me griping about that, got me thinking about what I've already put into it...

6800+ESC+battery = $125
CF Chassis = $55
Aluminum cases = around $18
RPM parts = $25
Lunsford turnbuckles = $50
Heatsink = $5
Foamies = $32
3Racing shocks = $25
Aftermarket gears = $25
DP Link = $9
Aluminum steering set = $10
Hitec servo = around $25
Titanium screw set = $20 I think
New bearings = $15
Truck itself = $80
Wing and mount = $15
MIP diffs = $35 I think
CVD's = around $20 I think
Spektrum radio = $150

I'd say over $900 considering all the extras and spares I currently own or have broken and replaced. If I buy another chassis I have enough parts and electronics now to build a 3rd truck (already built a second out of spares).

I guess that TEK18 and LiPo would go great on my birthday or Christmas list :D

What makes the class look intimidating? Do they list rides and specs and stuff? I'm always duking it out with the really quick Vendetta's, they allow 1/10th scale foams at my track so the Vendetta's are just as competitive.

[krimo]

I may as well set my sights on a TEK18 considering all the parts I'd still like to get and all the spares I'll end up with! :D

That cost summary said it all! :o Mines looks like...

truck = $160
Reedy VMX R14 = $37
Reedy SP19 = $37
Dynamite EP1500 = $26
LRP AI Runner+Rev = $37
3Racing Shocks = $30
3Racing heat sink = $12
DP gear cover = $12
MIP super diffs = about $44
Integy steering kit = ~$22
light kit = $30
MX-3HFSS = $150

That's about $590 and I don't even have a brushless esc, motor, lipo or charger! :D Good thing my wife is not too clear on the costs!!

Nonetheless, it sure brings a giant grin to my face when I see my little hot rod get faster or cooler looking!:D

What's that? Christmas! Christmas like joy comes every two to eight weeks with my next little mod!

The 4wd Modified class has: No Limit motor, Ni-Mh 7.2 Volt or LiPo 7.4 Volt battery, and 4WD Mod chassis. I guess I'm intimidated because It seems like one would have to live at the track to be competitive. That doesn't mean winning that means just being in the thick of things and having fun. It appears most of the racers there choose 1/10th but I'm not sure. I'll go check it out real soon. $15/practice for non-members.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

$15 practice?!?!?!

Non-members

$10 a race, $5 each extra class that same day...
$5 each practice

Members

$40 a month membership
Free racing
Free practice

I keep forgetting the cost of living in CA compared to here haha.

Well I know the Christmas-twice-a-month feeling, just bought some Exotek suspension parts and an Illuzions body! :D:D:D Should be here by Wednesday!

Don't be intimidated. Just remember, you can only go SO fast with these trucks before they are undriveable on the track. So if you are about as fast as you can get on a track you are on the same page as the others. Know what I mean? I race my truck once a week, 2 heats and a main, and that's it, maybe burn a pack in between to test setups. Once you get a handle on your truck it's like riding a bicycle, you don't forget!

[krimo]

Yeah,

Non-members
practice $15
race $20

Members
practice $10
race $15

Free practice for members with $750/yr at the low end.

Just saying the word Exotek causes half my brain to say "lets get that TEK18" while the other half says "be methodical get all the parts first then consider the chassis".

I guess racing the rc18t is all about taking care of the details. Did you get a Exotek truing arbor adapter or was it the setup board? Is tire truing exclusively for foam tires or can dirt racer tires be trued?

Sorry if I digress, like I said the word Exotek :roll2: caused me to go to their website and look for suspension components.

This is my first experience with RC and I figure I'll take at minimum, a couple years of consistent driving to become competitive (e.g. 3rd place in a Main) in 4wd Mod class. I'll go do a few practice sessions and hopefully meet some people and learn some things, keep a notebook of my times if possible. I'm sure there is a load to learn!!!:)

I'll assume ESCs that communicate with a PC are mandatory. I'm trying to figure out whether to go straight to brushless or get an ESC that can do both brushed/brushless. I just got the SP19 and I'd like to use it while I collect the remaining parts to go brushless only. I guess you can run brushless with NiMH and still haul balls! :D Come to think of it I'm gonna need that dremel kit more than ever now! :D Any particular 7.4V lipo you've had good results with?

[krimo]

By the way nice job on that body! I'm dying to do something with mine. Thanks for contributing to my list of manufacturers who make bodies for the 18t. IMO the mini lst/lst2 has many more bodies available for it than the 18t.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Thanks! The body is destroyed now, hence the ordering of the Illuzions :D

I nearly ordered the setup board but I don't want to have to buy a seperate for my VTA and Mini, so I'll just get a 1/10th scale for all three.

I ordered the 6 degree caster hubs and steering hubs, should make the steering and handling a little smoother.

ESC's like that aren't "mandatory" but the newest software for the Mamba is pretty nice, a noticeably difference from the old software, much smoother, a couple of more tuning options. It's just nice to adjust things like drag brake and your throttle curves which really can change how the vehicle drives on a given track.

Tire truing is for foam tires of any use. A guy I race with used to work at a machine shop and he made his own arbors for different foams like Associated's, BRP's, etc. So I had him true me a set!

Before that I had installed 18R axles and raced with 18R foam tires. It actually worked pretty good, except that the truck was fairly twitchy due to the small contact patch. Once the truck got setup for them it was great, was easier to get out of shape on power but it tracked nice and they held up fine with jumps and all.

Of course you're better off buying BRP's. They don't come trued (last time I checked anyway) but they are smaller diameter than stock Associated's.

Or Parma's are great, you can get them really soft, and if you can get them trued down I think that's the way to go. The stock Associated's are good trued because they get saturated with dope easily and soften up but untrued they are a bit hard for my liking.

Wow ok ending tire rant now ;)

If you really practice all you can and get as much exposure to racing as you can, you'll learn very quickly :) I had only started racing my 18T competitively at the start of June this year and within about 2 months (and some money "invested" into it) I was consistently placing 1-2-3 in the A-Main.

DON'T GIVE UP. It's inevitable that the truck will piss you off at some point. Trust me numerous times I had plans to eBay it but I'm glad I didn't, it's like my kid now :D

[krimo]

Are Setup boards for adjusting Camber and forward/aft alignment? And, do they come in scale appropriate sizes?

Is caster fixed for a given C hub and steering hub? To gain caster adjustibility
do you have to have multiple sets of caster and steering hubs? When increasing caster what characteristic of your vehicle handling changes? Why do the shock towers have multiple hole locations where your shocks mount, do those hole locations facilitate camber adjustment?

Is the Mamba the only brushless motor you've owned? How do you feel a about trinity's Cobalt B motor?

So, did you start racing immediately after the bug hit you? When you began racing I'm assuming you weren't getting on the podium, nonetheless I guess it makes sense to get as much track time as possible even if the results suck?

Do you put new tires on for each race?

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

1. Yes they are for adjusting nearly anything suspension-wise, they have a level flat clean surface. For precise measurements you'd need camber gauge, etc., but sometimes it's not needed, just make sure your turnbuckles are the same length. Exotek offers 1/18, 1/10, and maybe 1/8 from what I know.

2. Yes, each caster hub has a set amount of degrees; yes you'd need various hubs with different caster amounts; increasing caster from what I know can help tone down the steering response, especially in twitchy vehicles like the 18T; there are multiple holes to set the angle of your shocks and in a sense set your ride height and suspension travel, for on-road or carpet racing you want them to lay down as much as possible since you don't need to absorb bumps, but off-road for instance you want them standing up more so that your suspension has more travel to absorb bumps and not bottom out on jumps; this does not do anything with camber adjustment.

3. Yes I have only ever owned Mamba's, I do not know about the Cobalt.

4. Yes I started racing soon after I got the truck, I am very competitive. No I actually tested a ton before I actually raced, so when I started entering the heats and mains I was fairly competitive, although not any 1-2-3 spots for awhile. Over the summer I transformed my truck.

5. No need to :D I have been racing the same set of trued foamies for about 6 weeks now, and before that I was racing on the same set of 18R foamies for about 10 weeks. As long as they don't get ridiculously chunked or anything they are good to run right down to the rim (although this affects ride height.

Hope that answered everything!

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Well finally got my Exotek suspension parts in the other day and used them tonight.

The steering hubs toned my steering down too much and I was fighting the truck to get it to turn, so I put the ball stud back in the stock location and all was fine. I also loosened the rear diff.

The 6 degree caster hubs are great, the steering seemed a little smoothed out through the turns. Just as advertised the truck seemed less "twitchy".

My dope wore off early and my rear diff seemed to loosen up too much during the A-Main so I placed 3rd by roughly 12 seconds, very close racing.

The wing from 3Racing was less than half the price of a Vendetta wing and is just slightly bigger. Great deal!

[krimo]

Thanks HPI.

The answers provided really helped!:) I went to the local track and found no one was running 1/18th. Pretty much everyone was running 10th scale buggy/truck and it seemed like it was all brushless and Lipo.

I got a lot to think about.:eek:

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

I'm assuming that it's an outdoors dirt track? As long as the track isn't massive (as in geared towards 1/8 buggy) and you have a brushless and LiPo setup the truck would actually be fun to drive. The outdoor track at my LHS is just big enough that they run a stock Slash class and such, and my truck would be fine on it considering how fast it is.

Of course, I would NEVER put my truck through the dirt :D

I'd buy a Vendetta or build another 18T just for offroad.

No carpet track there? :( Sorry there doesn't seem to be any support for it.

If the track is configurable to oval a lot of guys have turned their 18T's and Mini-T's into oval racers. With a big powertrain on a decent oval dirt track they are plenty fast. Just another option!:teacher:

[krimo]

It's an indoor track with groomed red dirt that packs easily.:confused: I'll verify its composition. Its fast and it seems large. I've been bummed because It seems I have to get a new truck/buggy and set it up for BL and lipo. Maybe an Associated T4/B4 or something like that. The folks running 4WD modified were fast and pretty skilled. They were running mostly B44's.

It'll be about $600 to get a new/used truck plus the necessary upgrades to be competitive. :eek:

There is a Slash class, absolutely stock except for pinions. I did see a modified slash class race but the posted rules didn't explain what mods were allowed however, lipo was definitely acceptable. That slash truck is heavy, poorly suspended, kind of slow and wallows around a bit. Although, the tight racing was kind of exciting.

The 18T Wide conversion kit would be required to maintain cornering stability in the bumpy conditions.

I don't know if I should spend the money on brushless plus lipo for the 18T or use the money for a T4/B4. Damn! Not that I don't want another truck/buggy but the slow buildup is a bit frustrating.

It was fun watching though. :D I had my 18T with me on Sunday but I knew I couldn't clear any doubles without brushless and lipo in addition to the fact it was a race day so I didn't even pull it out to practice.

The rules state a 17.5T brushless is ok. Are you running a Mamba Max ESC? It seemed Novak was the ESC of choice and I saw no Tekin ESCs.

Sorry for the long post.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Don't need to apologize for long posts ;)

The 18T would be fun on that kind of track. To be honest if there is no hope of getting an 1/18th scale offroad class together and you want to race then put the money towards something you know will always be around. If they have been running B44/B4/T4 and the classes have good numbers and reliability in terms of return racers then by all means get into it if money allows.

It's just like when people ask what RTR or kit they should get, the answer is always "whatever your LHS stocks and supports".

Same with racing! If there isn't a carpet track within 75 miles of your house, why buy a 1/12th pan car? Grab a monster truck or buggy and go beat it up anywhere!

But you could always get lucky and spark interest for 1/18th if you put your truck out on the track all the time and impress people. :eek:

You don't necessarily need LiPo with brushless; remember I still race with a 1600 NiMh Orion pack and consistently place 1-2-3 among LiPo'd Vendettas and such. However, with a bigger track it definitely makes it easier :cool:

As for the Slashes, they are a blast. Sure they have tons of roll and aren't necessarily purebred race vehicles, but the whole point of the spec'd stock class is for fun and an equal playing field. You could always ask someone to let you test drive one for a few laps; if you have fun driving it just imagine racing it head-to-head. And that class would only be $200 for the truck and $50 for a really good battery and you're set. Something to consider.

My opinion?....

1. Keep the 18T and see if it sparks interests, you could find a used 6800 motor and ESC combo for a decent price.

2. Try out a Slash and if you like it, go for it. It'd also be a great way to introduce you into the routines of racing and improve your driving skills. Not calling you a newb or anything :p but anytime you drive something different you improve.

Sorry for the rant! Hope this helps your decision!

P.S. I have the Mamba 25 ESC in my 18T, it's the 2nd generation micro-brushless ESC I believe.

[krimo]

At this track, I heard there is a group of folks that come out with their 18T's occasionally but infrequently. The word is they mostly seem to entertain attendees with their tricks during practice sessions. I don't know if they go to race. Here's a link to see the track: http://ocrcraceway.com/track.html.

I've also thought about running the 18T anyway and see if it generates momentum among others and encourages them to bring out their 18T's as well. Unfortunately I think I would be forced to run with the B44s in the 4WD Mod class. I'll just have to test the waters once I do the brushless/ESC upgrade or decide to switch to a B4/T4.

I came across XRAY M18T Pro carbon chassis, It looks very nice and comparable to the Exotek; maybe? RC Car Action had very nice things to say about the truck in their July 2008 issue. Again, some testing after motor upgrades are in order to see If I'm satisfied with what I run without going with the carbon chassis.

The slash does seem like a sensible and worthwhile skill building activity. I'll see If I can get a test drive.

I have three LHS in my neighborhood I'll ask if they're any other tracks and/or outdoor courses around.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

"Unfortunately I think I would be forced to run with the B44s in the 4WD Mod class"

Do you mean you'd have to run your 18T with the B44's? :confused:

That track doesn't look too big for an off-road track, a fast 18T would be fine on it from what I can tell. :cool:

I haven't driven the XRAY but I have heard they are more fragile. Also it being XRAY the truck kit itself is really expensive and I can't imagine the LHS stocking parts, so they seem really hard to find unless you purchase from online. Also the parts are probably more expensive, too. Just something to consider, but I think the 18T can be easier on the wallet. Of course, they are really nice trucks and perform very well when set up correctly. :teacher:

From what I know XRAY has great quality and parts finish.

[krimo]

I'll check on whether or not an 18T/MT is required to run in the 4WD Mod class. I assume that the 18MT would fit into that category once a brushless upgrade is installed and obviously it is already 4WD. All the other classes at the OC Raceway are 2WD.

The only reason I mention the XRAY M18T Pro is because the chassis is available as a standalone item. But if it's fragile that is not a good thing. Yes, part availability can be an issue because none of my LHS have it in stock. In fact, I'm hesitant to switch to any truck that is not Associated or traxxas due to part availability issues. Nobody likes unscheduled downtime due to part failure.:(

Tonight is Friday night racing so I won't be at the track unless I'm a spectator. However, tomorrow I'll check out how my 18MT works at the track. I need to get some Pro-Line Bow-Tie tires and smooth wheels beforehand. If I leave work early today to visit my buddy in Ontario, I may check out a course in his neighborhood.:D

I'm itching to see how the 18MT works on a closed purpose built dirt course!

[BuggyBoy]

if anybody is interested I am selling my rc18mt has a tekin 6.8kv brushless and a dx 2.0 radio. Just been sitting around for the last year open to offers on it.

also has the factory team shocks and the CVD's

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

That's cool, just got a used Vendetta off of a friend and I've been wanting to try some off-road racing, have never ventured off of carpet!

I don't know about setting up for off-road except you definitely want a softer setup! Unless the dirt is packed smooth as asphalt :D

Hopefully will be racing onroad tonight alongside my VTA and Mini Cooper, gonna be a busy night! :eek:

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Oh yeah @Buggy, you only selling the truck as a whole, or could you sell out the Tekin motor and ESC? My friend has been browsing around for a good used brushless system higher than the 4200 he has right now.

[BuggyBoy]

trying to sell it as a whole because i gave the other parts to a friend for his rc18.

I would probably sell the whole thing for like $250 which isn't bad considering the radio system and brushless system was more then that.

[traper285]

Well i thought id get off my rear and post here since i have 7 of these cars. They are a blast to drive and even more fun now that my 2 sons and I just started carpet racing.


http://i317.photobucket.com/albums/mm375/traper285/th_myfleet005.jpg (http://s317.photobucket.com/albums/mm375/traper285/?action=view&current=myfleet005.jpg)

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Wow nice collection! Raced the 18T tonight, didn't have tires so I borrowed some Losi's from a friend. Then I slammed the truck down as low as it could go, and it has never driven better. I got second place by only 5 seconds and had everyone else by at least 2 laps. Those damn Vendetta's are quick!

[ducati777]

My diffs have never been smooth. I just throw them together, tighten them down all the way and go rip. However lately they were feeling more grinding then usual, so having nothing better to do, I popped off the top plate to take a look.

The rear diff carrier appeared to have metal dust in it... Hmmm that can't be good. Gears looked fine.

So I split the diff open and holy cow! The D rings have been grooved so badly, they pressed down and clamped the diff gear itself. Then it would slip, machining down the aluminum diff gear!

Check out the carnage!

I used a fresh rebuild kit, new balls, springs, D rings. I noticed the holes the balls ride in are actually ovalled out! Who would have thought the diff balls would wear out before the teeth on this gear? I have got some serious mileage on this gear and its still going strong.

I put it back together and even used the black AE grease. Man my diffs are silky smooth now. They've never felt like this!

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/ducati777/RC%20Cars/DSCF1948.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/ducati777/RC%20Cars/DSCF1949.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/ducati777/RC%20Cars/DSCF1950.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/ducati777/RC%20Cars/DSCF1951.jpg

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Wow you gave those gears hell :D

Why not just lock 'em up with CA and call it a day, no more plate grinding ;)

It's crazy how shark-toothed the gear is, have you ever tried the hardened steel ones? That's what I run and they are virtually bombproof.

[ducati777]

I have been wondering about running a spool. Spools in other cars have made them too tail happy, but this one has a gyro and is pretty stable.

Also I was thinking about that term virtually bombproof. I don't remember when I bought those gears. I want to say 2 years ago, but that may be an exageration. I will say this, I've never had a gear set in any car last this long. Ofna MP, 4-tec, Street GP, Nitro Stampede, T-maxx, M18, X-Terminator, heck what else have I had? My common complaint with all rc was the drivetrain was never built tough enough. Drop a hot motor in any of those cars above and they'll blow the diff.

The RC18T will blow too. But with just a few upgrades, the drivetrain can withstand anything. 2 years of 3 cell lipo / brushless hamfisted driving with almost zero maintenance.

I can confindently say that this gearset has exceeded my expectations of durability.

I still might try out the steel ones, but this is one of those rare upgrades that proves itself to be worth every penny and more. I think it was only 15 bucks or something for the gear, and it bought me 2 years of mindless thrashing.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

That's how mine have been, although not LiPo'd but the MIP diffs and steel gears have had no problems handling the abusive racing I've put the truck through. From what I remember the hardened steel ones are right around the price of the aluminum ones and such, but that was 8+ months ago.

[Ihaveaxrayt2r]

Ya whats up guys? I just preordered a rc18r. Was it worth the money. Ill post pics when I get it this saturday.

Also I was woundering if you guys can give me the pros and cons of the car.
Thanks again.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Of course it was worth the money :D ;)

Pros:

Fairly quick stock
Blast to drive
Great for beginners
Easy to work on
TONS of aftermarket support

Cons:
Steering system needs upgraded
Stock plastic tie rods are iffy
Will turn into a money pit :D

Maybe that last one isn't a bad thing!
This your first RC or just venturing into 1/18th? They race 18R's at my local track on Saturdays with jumps, and it's such a blast I'm building one right now. Any questions you have we can answer. I've done almost everything you can to the 18T and have raced it extensively, so feel free to ask anything. Setup will be a bit different than what I know considering the wheelbase but if you are bashing it won't matter as much.

[Ihaveaxrayt2r]

lets just say this is my First 1/18 scale car that i convert into a rc18mt, t, or b.

im not new to the hobby
xrayt2r
2x nitro rs4s
sprint 2 sport
tt-01
slash
mini rs4.

any way thinks for replying. now i feel safe doing this decision.

i will be getting the mitsubishi version.

i will have more question when i get it this friday. thanks!!!!!

[GT Freak]

would the FT18t be a good upgrade from my mini-t??

[Ihaveaxrayt2r]

I just got my rc18r it is so fun. I just got done driving it on ice

[-Snickers-]

Im getting the 6800Kv sidewinder brushless system soon, and I was wondering what Lipo battery would be recommended for it. I dont want to spend a fortune (over $100) if thats possible. I also would like to go straight for a 3S and have reasonable run time. Any suggestions?
-Snickers-

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Yes, Mini-T's are.... "cool" and all, but it's hard for them to beat an 18T on the track, plus I think 18T is a bit of a better basher due to 4WD and they seem sturdier.

Mini-T's are better for jumps and that's about it in my opinion.

Glad you're liking it Ihave, I am getting all the necessary conversion parts to make my T an R in a week :D

I remember taking my RS4 MT out onto the ice and snow..... now I want one again :( plus the under-body shell was great for shielding moisture.

[Ihaveaxrayt2r]

Yes and know theres to much snow about 5 inchs. Got me a rocker this dec 16 been driving that in this kind of snow. :) ill try to post pics next post!

[Ihaveaxrayt2r]

Well, here it is and dam this thread is dieing.

Sorry for me taking so long I have 10inchs of snow here in seattle!

Also don't mind the snow in the back ground!

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/3200/img00456mo8.th.jpg (http://img255.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00456mo8.jpg)
http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/9493/img00455xp4.th.jpg (http://img75.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00455xp4.jpg)

[fishymamba]

What company should I get upgrades from?

[Ihaveaxrayt2r]

This thread is pretty much died now.
I think im the only person that watchs it. And of cross hpi fan. Ae is good.
And look at thetoyz.com they have some hop-ps.

Also what do you think of getting?
Alum, rpm?

[fishymamba]

mostly aluminum/titanium.

[Ihaveaxrayt2r]

Look at thetoyz.com

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

TheToyz has any part or hopup you'd need for your 18.

My 18R is now complete, I just need to pick up another Mamba ESC and stick in a radio and its good to go. BRP tires, CF chassis, and I'm painting a 350Z body right now. When I get it done I'll try and remember to post pics!

[SerpentCT4S]

I can get a NIB factory team 18t for $100.

I am debating whether I should buy it or not. Is it a good deal?

[AFSilverstar]

I got an rc18b. I'm thinking about getting some paddle tires for the beach. Any recommendations? Do I just get any 18 scale paddle tires?

I got this one and picked it up in person.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180315463835&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123

[traper285]

Xray i run a 18 r with a custom painted Niteline body and after getting some tips from hpi i am really happy with it. I race in Spokane on the carpet and after getting it dialed in i am loving it. Thanks Hpi.


http://i317.photobucket.com/albums/mm375/traper285/myfleet005.jpg
http://i317.photobucket.com/albums/mm375/traper285/myfleet013-1.jpg

[Ihaveaxrayt2r]

That look great! I like the paint job.
I don't know yet if im going to my lrt today? But if so im bring my rc18r.

[traper285]

I really like the paint job but after a few races and a couple practice sessions its busted up. I think i need to have my buddy paint me another one. Hpi its always fun converting these cars my 18R started its life out as a 18T.

[Timmee]

Hello all. I just picked up this on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270321635952&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:US:1123

I think this should do nicely (once I get the electronics sorted) against my nephew's stock Vendetta ST. One thing I've noticed from reading this thread (only read from about page 35 on) is that the diffs seem to loosen up somewhat. Is this a problem with the stock diff design, and would it be possible to fix it without having to replace the outdrives?

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

It's usually only a problem with high-power motors (brushless for example). My friend has a 4200 in his with the stock diffs and I raced it over the weekend, and they held up fine and didn't loosen. A dab of threadlock on the end of the diff bolt (if you plan to rebuild) will help some.

My 350Z body is drying right now! And I just need to pick up electronics for the chassis. I had borrowed the Mamba ESC from it for my Vendetta and it caught on fire Saturday while racing, so needless to say I need another ESC.

When it came time to pick a color, I wanted something that stood out and no one else had, and I mean no one else in any other class, too....



So fluorescent pink it is :D That along with the fluorescent yellow BRP wheels and it should be very visible on the track ;)

[Ihaveaxrayt2r]

dang, i thought you where going to leave a cliff hanger. i was going to guess pink.

sad news that i cant drive my car to much rain. plus my place it a little to big if you know what i mean? lol

[Timmee]

It's usually only a problem with high-power motors (brushless for example). My friend has a 4200 in his with the stock diffs and I raced it over the weekend, and they held up fine and didn't loosen. A dab of threadlock on the end of the diff bolt (if you plan to rebuild) will help some.

My 350Z body is drying right now! And I just need to pick up electronics for the chassis. I had borrowed the Mamba ESC from it for my Vendetta and it caught on fire Saturday while racing, so needless to say I need another ESC.

When it came time to pick a color, I wanted something that stood out and no one else had, and I mean no one else in any other class, too....



So fluorescent pink it is :D That along with the fluorescent yellow BRP wheels and it should be very visible on the track ;)

I was thinking of something like this: http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_details.lasso?id=10114&cat_name=BRUSHLESS as I'm going to need a motor and speed controller. Unless there's a way to fit my Novak 17.5 SS motor and GTB speed controller (which is in my RS4 MT) in the RC18 chassis. :eek::D

[Ihaveaxrayt2r]

Well it cleared up a little so I did some speed runs. Then I did some turns. And it kept on spinnig out. So im like it must be from wet tires so I drived the car warmed the tires. Got some grip. But still spinning out. So I said to my self ok im done for to day.
When I went inside there was oil droping on my finger. And I notice that the shock was blown.

So I fixed it. Know what 15mins to charge the batt

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

You using the stock rubber tires? There isn't much you can do for that if the asphalt is dirty and unprepared :(

If you can run it on new sidewalk and clean unused pavement then tire dope can actually help. It's not just for racing :D

[Ihaveaxrayt2r]

Ya I drove it today. Runs great.
Im slipping a little bit but because of the wet pavement.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Well the 350Z body didn't fit as nice as I thought with the BRP's, I know they can work well with the Skyline body so I thought I'd try my luck. The rear wheel wells don't look bad, just oversized, but I had to cut a lot from the front due to the wide turning radius. It doesn't look bad I suppose. Good beater body at least. Now I just have to get an ESC for it and get it running. If my suspension is too loose the tires want to rub on the body so I'll have to figure something out, I may wind up needing 18R foams anyway.

[Timmee]

Well, I got my RC18T today. The auction was pretty accurate, although there were some surprises (in a good way). It came with an RPM front bumper, FT titanium turnbuckles, brass sleeves on the rear outdrives, and the metal spring on the servo saver. I guess I should have waited to receive the truck before I bought a new set of Lunsford titanium turnbuckles, blue outdrive sleeves, and metal servo saver spring (as I could have used that money to pick up new shocks, CVDs, and/or metal outdrives).

[Ihaveaxrayt2r]

Lol I just got a savage and im loving it.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Well burnt out an ESC so I borrowed one from a friend's vehicle. I have it assembled, it is an 18R in every way except I stumbled across something. The 18T body still fits good and I have BRP's on it right, so....

I put front 18T shock towers on the front and rear (to compensate for 4 short shocks) and with a little creativity the body sits just fine. It looks exactly like an 18T except with about an inch less of track width. I may try running it like this with trucks tonight. If it doesn't work how I like then I"ll stick the 350Z body back on and destroy it. It sits fairly low for a truck, so bottoming out would be inevitable, but maybe narrowing the width and smoothing out the steering will take some of the squirrely-ness out of it.

It seems like there is something catching on either my pinion or spur but I cleaned them both. After tonight I'll have to do a complete rebuild-and-clean, even though I shouldn've done that 3 days ago while I was assembling it :rolleyes:

I did get a screw over-Loctite'd into my rear aluminum diff case, so I had to grind the head off of it and pull it through the chassis. So NOW I have to continue drilling into my aluminum bumper just far enough to get the bumper off so I can manually pull the screw out. ARG :mad::mad::mad:

[Ihaveaxrayt2r]

pics

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Well didn't bother with the truck body and raced it as an R with the 350Z body. It was a blast! The body is hacked but if I remember to tomorrow I'll post a pic or something. And the BRP's worked great, I didn't have any body-rubbing problems and no traction rolling.

[SerpentCT4S]

I just traded for a Factory Team 18t roller with a Mamba 8800 combo.

I plan on getting a Hitec HS-56HB servo, foam tires, JConcepts body and RPM arms, shock towers and bumper.

I am now searching for a battery pack. I do not want to go Li-Po right now, just a regular pack.

Can someone please recommend me a good pack?

[chestnut007]

Any 1600 mah 6-cell pack from any big company (Orion, MaxAmps, ect.)

[Timmee]

Since the Hitec HS-65MG is such a popular conversion, why aren't 3rd party vendors making specialized mounts for it? The reason I ask is it was a pain to file down the servo mount so it'd fit.

BTW, a big endorsement to thetoyz.com, for their excellent customer service. If anyone is reading this and is hesitant to buy from them, they should be confident buying from them.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

I second that on thetoyz.com, I've spent more than I care to share on that site and I always get my parts within 5 days with basic shipping. My first stop when I need something :D

My Hitec has 2 small "ear" mounts like most standard 1/10 servos do instead of using the stock one. The holes on the chassis and the 2 small mounts don't line up perfectly (1-2mm off) but you can lengthen a hole on the chassis and it'll hold fine. I don't like to do this on my CF chassis so 1 of the servo mount screws threads in just a bit crooked but it has always held just fine, even with off-road.

[little_sister]

I got my buggy kit in the mail the other day and starting putting it together slowly while i save for other components. I've built several kits before, but I am getting a little annoyed with this build. The manual has been wrong a couple times already and I'm not even that far in. Any big issues I should be looking out for? Thanks!

[Timmee]

I got my buggy kit in the mail the other day and starting putting it together slowly while i save for other components. I've built several kits before, but I am getting a little annoyed with this build. The manual has been wrong a couple times already and I'm not even that far in. Any big issues I should be looking out for? Thanks!

I bought my 18t used, but when I was assembling my Lunsford titanium turnbuckles, I was following the lengths listed in the manual, and found them to be off (large amount of toe out and the wrong orientation for the ball cups, for example).

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

little sister: It is imperative that you build the diffs slowly and correctly, and provide the right amount of lubrication for the diff balls. The stock Associated diffs can be easy to ruin, BUT if you build them right and maintain them then they can handle nearly anything you throw at them and last a year or more.

Also a common mistake but easy to fix.... Make sure that you use the 2 longer of the turnbuckles for the steering rods, otherwise you will have a crazy amount of toe-out! :eek:

Just be gentle with the ball cups and ensure that nothing binds as you build. It is easier to do a little bit of reaming or sanding now (suspension arms for example) and get things smoothed out rather than disappoint yourself and have to rebuild it again. :teacher:

Enjoy the build! :D

[little_sister]

thanks! I did spend quite a bit of time building the diffs. I'm having a hard time adjusting the amount of torque on the screw though. I'm hoping I've gotten it right!

I'll keep my eyes open on the turnbuckle thing too.

[little_sister]

The build is almost complete, but I've gotta wait on all my electronics... so no rush.

Of course now I gotta fix this garbage!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3509/3196410180_5dd195c23f.jpg
That shredded pile is the blue locknut for the wheel! Even being gentle, I managed to cross thread it. It wouldn't let go! I had to cut it off with a dremel tool. NOT STOKED.

[Timmee]

I have a question. I just received my latest order from The Toyz, and after I assembled the CVDs (Associated part # 21230, made by MIP), I found that the cross pins won't fit inside the Associated diff sleeves. Is that common, or am I just unlucky?

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Timmee I had the same problem when I had CVD's :( They just don't fit for some reason.

If you're careful you could just Dremel a tiny bit from each end of the pins until the sleeves fit.......

[Timmee]

Timmee I had the same problem when I had CVD's :( They just don't fit for some reason.

If you're careful you could just Dremel a tiny bit from each end of the pins until the sleeves fit.......

Nah. I'll just get metal outdrives, so I won't have to worry about screwing the CVDs up.

[Timmee]

I've got a quick question. Is there a reason MIP isn't making their shock bodies and titanium nitride shock shafts anymore?

[Thomas P]

Thought i should share my pics from my latest custom made competition racer... TEK18X2SE - 2wd car (some of ya may have seen it on other forums)

It´s using the tranny from AE RC18 car, and TEK18X..and its slipper. Toppdeck and bottom chasi is homemade...the car was first using novaks mongoose 8.5T system and worked REALY good, but now later the cheap EZrun system(like Speedpasions) and its ACE...

Jaco pink rears 48mm
TRC orange dots front
Losi mini-T shocks "fronts all around"
Integy front chassi-brace
rest is GPM...
MIP diffs + CVDs
EZruns 7800 combo with Mystery 2s2p (1800mah)
GB-Concepts body...

Enjoy!.

front

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0404.jpg

Dremeling..

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0026.jpg

First "test mount"

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0029.jpg

Topdeck testing..

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0035.jpg

Electrical mount

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0051.jpg

latest electronic installed

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0031-1.jpg

Quickpaint on GB-Lid

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0048-1.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0047-1.jpg

/Thomas

[Timmee]

Thought i should share my pics from my latest custom made competition racer... TEK18X2SE - 2wd car (some of ya may have seen it on other forums)

It´s using the tranny from AE RC18 car, and TEK18X..and its slipper. Toppdeck and bottom chasi is homemade...the car was first using novaks mongoose 8.5T system and worked REALY good, but now later the cheap EZrun system(like Speedpasions) and its ACE...

Jaco pink rears 48mm
TRC orange dots front
Losi mini-T shocks "fronts all around"
Integy front chassi-brace
rest is GPM...
MIP diffs + CVDs
EZruns 7800 combo with Mystery 2s2p (1800mah)
GB-Concepts body...

Enjoy!.

front

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0404.jpg

Dremeling..

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0026.jpg

First "test mount"

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0029.jpg

Topdeck testing..

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0035.jpg

Electrical mount

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0051.jpg

latest electronic installed

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0031-1.jpg

Quickpaint on GB-Lid

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0048-1.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/TEK18X2SE/DSC_0047-1.jpg

/Thomas

Just out of curiosity, why only 2wd? Track rules? Or does it work better as a 2wd for your particular track?

[Thomas P]

A lot more fun to drive =), a 2wd thats act as a 4wd..it is far more easier to drive then my TEK18X 4wd. Fun to build...The track we have is suited for 4wd/2wd with some nice jumps..

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/skarpnack/DSC_0112-2.jpg

This one is so much easier to drive, and drivning fast so i sold(will be selling my TEK18) with tractioncompund around, it is screaming fast on the lap :)

thats why :)

/Thomas

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

If anyone is interested go to the RCTECH thread that Thomas has for this, shows some cool photos of the insane amount of parts ordered among numerous other things. Thanks for posting here, too! :D

[Timmee]

So, I was browsing at a Radio Shack, and saw a lot of Pro-Pulse stuff on clearance. Since from what I've read, the Pro-Pulse is a clone of the RC-18 series, I ended up picking up a set of 4 slick tires on rims and a set of 4 dirt tires on rims, all for a grand total of $4.18 after tax.

:D

If they had the aluminum shocks there, I would have picked them up too. Unfortunately, they were out. :(

[little_sister]

Just for the record: The blue locknuts (#25392) for the wheels on the FT cars are NOT 5mm, they're like 5.3mm. The wrench that comes with the kit is 5.5mm, but I don't like it as it feels too loose. I also didn't measure it til AFTER i bought a 5mm nut driver. i might try a 7/32 one.

[chestnut007]

i really wish there was a track like that around my area....:(

[BuggyBoy]

if anybody wants a brushless rc18mt with a dx 2.0 radio I am selling mine need to get rid of it asap.. so make offers if your interested.

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=2387092#post2387092

[Timmee]

On the subject of boiling gears (something I read on here, to make the stock diff and input gears a little less brittle), would the same thing work for the gears on the stock servo (or would they become too soft)? I ask because when I got my RC18T, it had stripped servo gears. I put in a new set, but while installing them, chipped a tooth on the output gear (thus negating all the work I just did).

[ducati777]

Thomas, that looks awesome man! Great work.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Timmee I've never heard of that for the sevo gears. Although both plastic, chances are they are made of a different composition than the input/diff gears. It might be more cost/time effective to just replace it with another cheap AE servo or upgrade to a solid Hitec and be set for good. Just my thoughts!

[Timmee]

Timmee I've never heard of that for the sevo gears. Although both plastic, chances are they are made of a different composition than the input/diff gears. It might be more cost/time effective to just replace it with another cheap AE servo or upgrade to a solid Hitec and be set for good. Just my thoughts!

Well, I've got a Hitec HS-65MG in my 18T now, but I always like to have a backup (that comes from my first night of racing, when I snapped a graphite pan car axle, and didn't have a spare). But I might try it out with the gears I have now, so I don't waste a good set. If it does help, then I'll get another set of gears.

[wheeleze]

Well, I've got a Hitec HS-65MG in my 18T now, but I always like to have a backup (that comes from my first night of racing, when I snapped a graphite pan car axle, and didn't have a spare). But I might try it out with the gears I have now, so I don't waste a good set. If it does help, then I'll get another set of gears.

HS-56 kg has worked good 4 me... and replacement gears are only $7 @ tower.

[BillH]

Hey guys I am having an issue. My servo saver keeps skipping a few teeth when I bump something with the edge of the front tire. Does someone make a better servo save or do I just need a new one?

[Timmee]

Hey guys I am having an issue. My servo saver keeps skipping a few teeth when I bump something with the edge of the front tire. Does someone make a better servo save or do I just need a new one?

Is it the servo gears or the servo arm? Either way, they make a servo with metal gears that works, and they have metal servo arms.

[BillH]

It is not the servo I think it has to be the teeth on the arm.

[spawn_x]

Hey guys, I'm having a tough time keeping my 18t straight. Even with a 7.4v battery it just hauls a$$.

I NEED to extend the wheelbase (longer, not wider)

Exotek conversion isn't an option, too much $$ plus I would need new batteries, so that's a no.

I looked online and found this,

http://www.fullforcerc.com/images/RC18T/18T007X.jpg

http://www.fullforcerc.com/RC18T.htm

basically arms that you can flip around to gain over half inch of length, its not much but its a start

28 bucks a set, need two sets. Kills two birds with one stone, some bling and also a longer wheelbase

Thoughts?

I got a sheet of CF laying around and suppose I could try to make a longer chassis in the future, but for a "plug and play" solution half an inch is a start

[chestnut007]

Do it! I know what you mean, these little things are a hand full when you get fast motors and batteries in them. I have stripped two spur gears so far from my chassis flexing from the torque of my mamba 6800!:eek:

[spawn_x]

nice. Interestingly enough I haven't stripped anything yet, not even with the 11v lipo.

but I'm running touring car tires so this thing is like a square, makes it impossible to give it throttle in the dirt, it just does a 360 and usually lands upside down

http://www.stuckatwork.com/gallery/albums/rc/IMG_1017.sized.jpg

I wonder how big a difference half an inch would do, but its a start...

[pedeman]

Hey guys, I have a set of foam tires that i'm not going to use... does anyone want to trade my set of foam tires (they look brand new, not chunked or anything) for a set of MT tires or something larger?

[dogbreathracing]

Do it! I know what you mean, these little things are a hand full when you get fast motors and batteries in them. I have stripped two spur gears so far from my chassis flexing from the torque of my mamba 6800!:eek:

Chassis flex is the number one killer of spur gears in this car, upgrade the chassis to a 3R, Diggity, or Exotek chassis and the flex is gone, you can also run the Exotek slipper clutch....it helps wonders for saving gears and tuning in the traction on high powered brushless motor systems.

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/2821/img1173i.jpg

[spawn_x]

I did get the arms and installed them, wheelbase is longer so that helps a lot. I also installed a 60oz digital airtronics servo with no servo saver, so steering is improved

I still have a problem with my diffs eventually loosening up and also not being able to track straight on hard take-off.

Suspension and steering is fine and even, any tips would be great

mamba 8k on 2s lipo, not carpen - street or dirt only

[immarcescibile]

Hi guys,
anyone knows if "MIP one-way spool" and "MIP super diffs" will both be a GPM alu diff.housing direct fit?
Will be a bad installing issue?

Please reply, many thanks in advance, bye, Simone.

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

I have aluminum diff housings, and I have put an MIP diff, MIP one-way, and a stock Associated diff all in them without problems. Just be sure to shim it properly!

[immarcescibile]

Are them GPM?

Thanks

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

I'm 99% sure that they are, but it's been over a year since I ordered them...

[immarcescibile]

Thanks HPI-Fan-4-Ever ;-)

Any other guy experienced the above matter?

[wheeleze]

Thanks HPI-Fan-4-Ever ;-)

Any other guy experienced the above matter?

I couldnt get the GPM diff cases to mesh on my 18t. They kept binding, no matter how I shimmed them so I just went with MIP cvd's and hardened diff's which hold up great.

[immarcescibile]

Why was that possible Wheeleze?

[wheeleze]

I think it was bad machining on GpM's part. Maybe they've figured it out, but I'm back to the stock diff cases. If you wanna buy my two silver aluminum GpM caes, Id be glad to get rid of them... I bolted them down tried to insert the shaft and pulled them right out after noticing the binding.

[immarcescibile]

Ehehe thanks anyway, I already have it bolted on :-)

[makakoa808]

Working On a 540 Motor Mount for the RC18
The problem I'm having is the Pinion gear is really far from the spur gear.. So I need a big Pinion gear...
here are some pics
http://www.rccrashzone.com/rcz_pics/RCCZ540RC18/540rc18a.jpg
http://www.rccrashzone.com/rcz_pics/RCCZ540RC18/540rc18b.jpg
http://www.rccrashzone.com/rcz_pics/RCCZ540RC18/540rc18c.jpg

[2canSAM21]

I know this has probably already been answered but I need a quick answer. I set up a trade for My XXX-NT for a RC18MT. I currently use a JR XR2 radio which is a dual model for the truck and my onroad car. I would like to keep this radio and use it with the RC18MT but wondered if there is room for the JR TX. The dimensions for the RX are 1.75"L x 1.25"W x .75"D

[romanjcg]

hello all, thinking of using RC18T dampers for a custom job but i'm having trouble finding the uncompressed and compressed damper lengths. Does anyone know what the compressed and uncompressed damper lengths are from mounting hole to mounting hole or know where I can find them?? If anyone knows, I would greatly appreciate it. Cheers! Roman.

[romanjcg]

Forgot to metion need the lengths for the front dampers, pretty sure the rears a too long. Roman.

[Husker1]

Working On a 540 Motor Mount for the RC18
The problem I'm having is the Pinion gear is really far from the spur gear.. So I need a big Pinion gear...
here are some pics
http://www.rccrashzone.com/rcz_pics/RCCZ540RC18/540rc18a.jpg
http://www.rccrashzone.com/rcz_pics/RCCZ540RC18/540rc18b.jpg
http://www.rccrashzone.com/rcz_pics/RCCZ540RC18/540rc18c.jpg

:eek:wow. Did you ever get this to work?

[makakoa808]

Yes I did get it to work.. But I was not happy with the end result, I am currently trying to improve it. Going with a wide track conversion kit.. And also re working the Motor mount. Will have pics and more posted soon.

[Husker1]

Can't wait to see those pics then. How long did you tinker around with the design? Did it mess with the frame or cause balance problems?

[makakoa808]

Well the rc18r is very low to the ground thats why I chose to use that model thinking it would help with the big motor mounted on top... Unfortunetly it was not wide enough and would flip if I took the turns to quickly. The first design I mounted the 540 motor mount on to the original stock motor mount... making placement of the 540 motor a a bit farther from the spur gear then what I would have liked. So I had to use a massive pinnion gear. The new mount I'm working on will bolt on th the chassis and will sit closer to the spur gear... And as far as unbalanced... The weight of the battery, I used a 3 cell 5400 mah lipo was a good couter weight for the motor.

[caseymou]

Anyone have opinions of the cheap brushless systems being sold on ebay right now? Prices just look too good to be true. I'm not a racer but have a used RC18T on the way to me and it's still got the stock engine.

[burner42]

Hi, new here, looking for help. My rc18t has a carbon fiber after market chassis that changes the way I mount my front suspension arms, I now have 2 blue aluminum pieces that replaced the stock front plastic bumper mount, the new chassis came with little plastic balls that go on the ends of the hinge pins to keep them snug in the 2 blue aluminum end pieces. Does anybody know where I can purchase the plastic ball ends for the hinge pins?
I do not know the brand of the chassis, I tried contacting the guy I purchased it through but no response. Here are a few pics of the car, and the part Im looking for is in the first & second picture. Anybody with any info on this car please help me i.d. the parts on it as I know nothing about it. I bought it for fun to drive around the parking lot while my 1/5 scale is resting ...
Thanks!


http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac299/burner342/IMG_2051.jpg

http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac299/burner342/IMG_2050.jpg

http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac299/burner342/IMG_2052.jpg

http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac299/burner342/IMG_2053.jpg

http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac299/burner342/IMG_2054.jpg

WOW! Sorry for the supersized pics...

[burner42]

does anybody even read these forums? geez talk about a dead zone... any suggestions on a site that actually has people?

[jygwkuo]

This RC18t thread has been idle for a while already. Try rctech.net or forums.thetoyz.com

[ioyasm]

try diggity designs , there in michigan they make that chassis , i have been out of 1/18 for a long time but had one of them chassis . i used the ????????mip front bumper for to hold the pins in . you can also make it work by using the old bumber as a tem plate and drill holes through it and put longer pins in and put small locking collars on it , i hope thaat will help you out

[ducati777]

My attempt to breath some life into this thread....

So i've been having a lot of radio problems. I have pretty limited range, and i think it was due to my old metal radio tray, and packing the electronics too tight.

OLD:
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/ducati777/DSCF1720.jpg

I started wondering if the metal was screwing with my radio, so I cut a new tray out of lexax, and also made a bracket for the gyro instead of mounting to the side of the receiver.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/ducati777/IMG_1091.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/ducati777/IMG_1093.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a353/ducati777/IMG_1092.jpg

[ducati777]

Ran the new setup today. Had to fab a battery bar. Truck ran flawless, the gyro seemed a touch sensitive at first, but then the car really tracked straight.

Might get some video tomorrow.

[ducati777]

The new radio tray broke. Should have expected that with lexan....

[borgador17]

Not many posts lately. I just wanted you Forumites to know that I have an RC-18T up for auction on Ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120646395151&_trksid=p2145.l1259
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh173/borgador17/Ebay%20auctions/DSC02103.jpg

[borgador17]

The auction ended successfully. My thanks to any of you who may have bid.

Now it's time to order a new Traxxas Rally VXL.

Thanks again

[Jmnnorris24]

I have a brushless rc18t2 and I am wondering what I have to do to my speed control to run the 2cell lipo battery. This is the brand new updated model. So my next question is the model set for the lithium ion battery? If so my model is not getting the full potential out the system. So my question is! If my car is nor already programmed what are the steps I have to do to make the motor the battery and speed control work at there max potential? Anyone with this knowledge please let me know thanks for your your time