Miss Bud Issues

[Rosati]

Hi. I just recently came across this board and have searched relentlessly for all info regarding the ProBoat Miss Bud Hydro. Thanks to several folks for the advanced warnings to some users of what to expect from this kit.

I bought mine from Ebay in new condition with only 1 tank of fuel run and I must say the product was exactly as decribed. No flaws, no damage, no problems.

I took it out to a small pond at Texas A&M yesterday to give her a go. She started up great, idles great and even planes well with just a small push. I really enjoyed running her even thought the pond is pretty small (maybe 150'x50'). I will definatly be getting the prop and auto bailer upgrades as well as redoing the radio box. Proboat definatly dropped the ball on that one.
What I was disappointed about was the turning radius. I have run tunnel hulls for the last 10 years recreationally, and both of my boats will turn 90 degree cuts at the drop of a hat but the hydro seems to like 12-14 foot radiuses.
I did have the radio turning full locks but that boat would not turn as I thought it would. Every once in awhile, it would seem to "hook" and cut tight turns but almost immediatly drop off plane and start to cavitate.
I never ran it more than about 1/2 throttle due to the size of the pond but I would think the turns are tighter at slower speeds with hydro's.
Any thoughts?

[BoatDoc]

trying to turn that thing sharp at full speed is a bit hairy. they skip and try to flip to the outside of the turn. and yes...it comes off plane real easy if you turn too sharp. definitely take care of those upgrades if you expect to actually enjoy that boat. you may also want to try and stiffen the hull somewhat.

[Watercadet]

Double make sure that the servo is secure and all the linkage is doing it's job. You may want to give it some resistance with your hand. Other than that not much. The type of boat is what you have to compair. The real tunnels make 90 deg. turns in real life, while the Thunderboats have 1/4 mile to gat turned arround. The same is pretty much true to scale. My tunnel still turns tighter than my Buddy.
Adam

[Rosati]

I ran the red rocket in a large lake today. Overall a good experience. The wind made some small chopped ripples and she handled pretty good.
I set up the radio trim to almost full left and re-adjusted the rudder to center. This gave me the ability to turn a little harder to the right. If I nail it in the turns, she bites real hard and hooks some lazy 90's!
First run varied from 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and lasted almost 8 minutes. I hooked a turn and it dropped plane. I backed off the throttle and eased her back up on step. But she picked up too much water and the next tight turn slid it sideways. Had to fish it out.
2nd run was almost 10 minutes and ran flawless resulting in a nice coasting stop back to shore.
3rd run and last of the tank was a short 3 minutes (Gotta remember to check the tank!) resulting in a fishing expidition lasting 1/2 an hour!

Overall, I was impressed. She didn't like to run in the small pond I tried Friday. She needs room to run. I also finished up the radio box, I forgot the gasket material so it picked up about a teaspoon of water but I will fix that this week.

One last thing, I added some 1/4 x 3/8 spruce strips under the deck on each side of the engine bay to support the hull during starting. I just coated them with epoxy and clamped them in. This made a huge difference and I made no further cracks in the cowl lip. My next mod is to devise a way to reduce the water intake. This may require modifying the cowl.

[abx131]

One of the things I noticed about mine is the floor of the radio box flexes under steering torque. I stiffened the floor and attached the steering servo with JB weld. All other epoxies eventually broke the servo free while running. Talk about a scary feeling, Loss of steering at full speed!! This boat diffinitely has its poor engineering problems, post any upgrades you can to help the others. Collectively this boat will be improved.

[Rosati]

I noticed the box floor as well. It is joined to the bottom near the transom and is fairly solid for about 1/2" but the front over the stuffing tube is way too flexible for me. I am considering cutting out the bottom completely and dropping in some 3/32 ply. I also plan to beef up the rudder servo with a 100+ oz torque.
Has anyone really looked inside the hull at how the deck and hull are connected?
It looks as if they just squirted some epoxy on the seam and laid some small balsa strips all along the seam. I noticed my hull is already starting to crack along the port side of the cockpit. Most likely from putting my hand over the cockpit to hold it while I pull start.

[abx131]

Again, poor engineering. What it needs is a pair of stringers in there to carry the weight of one's hand on the cockpit while starting. The body flexes too much.

[Watercadet]

I hold the boat down while starting by the Nistarter. I push directly down on it and pull. I make sure the stand is under the motor mounts and have yet to experience any hull cracking. By holding the MOTOR while pulling on the MOTOR I don't stress the hull.
Adam

[decoy706]

Rosati and others
I have tore my 1/12 Bud all apart-ripped out the servos and it took the floor with them out of the box.The insides were crapally put together I can get pics if needed. Mine is going electric so "everything was Stripped Out". MM are wood crap glued in and will strip out easily. I haven't deceided if the radio box is going or not as I have a tupperware replacement setting here.There is NOTHING holding up the hulls but air

[Hydro Junkie]

And people wonder why I think those boats are garbage. I've said it before and I'll say it again, IF YOU WANT A QUALITY HYDROPLANE, BUILD IT YOURSELF!

[Rosati]

I'd love to build a hydro from scratch! But without the knowledge (yet) of what I'm building since I have only run tunnels for the last 10 years, I would be afraid of spending countless $$ and hours and getting a 20 mph piece of driftwood.
If there were a kit that included all hardware and detailed finishing instructions, I would be interested. I have always loved to watch the unlimited hydro's run on TV and thought it would be cool to try on in the RC field. Hence the reason I and most people jumped on the Proboat when it came out. They promised a RTR the was fast. It is a good kit if you already have boating experience, but not for a first time boater.
I don't even think I could have gotten mine to run if were not for this board.
I'm used to just setting my tunnel in the water and idleing off to the center of the lake then nailing the throttle. Never would have happened with the bud.

[BoatDoc]

rosati--here's an idea for ya. if you want to build a scratch hydro but say you lack the experience, go my route. i'm ordering plans from newton marine and then sending them to climate models to be lazer cut. it's kind of a challenge between me and HJ. the boat will be 34" long and suitable for .21 or .45 power. i'll be learning this as i go too, with bunches of help from HJ. i'm having the parts cut by climate because i don't have a workshop where i live right now.

[abx131]

How much is climate charging to do that?? You are getting the thing basically as a custom kit??? What is their turn around time on something like that. Do they figure out the proper thicknesses for you or they just follow your instructions?

[BigTruckDriver]

Hi guys I also have just recently bought a Miss Bud Boat. This site seems to have more people with hydro boats then any where else I have searched.I have been racing on and off road for a couple years.Anyways, I have also seen the issues with the pull starter on this boat. My first Idea was not to start glueing more supports for the engine,but to get rid of the pull starter . I dont want to add more weight where its not needed.I am trying to move lighter,and faster.No one "races" with a pull starter . Pull starters add to much drag on the engine.So, it would probably be best to throw that thing in the trash ,or keep in your tool box for a rainy day. There are many different ways to start these engine ,the pull starter is the basic.

[abx131]

I agree, the best way is a belt starter which it is set up to take. Hope you have read through all the required mods just to make the boat "doable". It seems like there are more people talking and complaining about this boat more than any other!!They do take some work and a lot of patience.

[BoatDoc]

abx--i don't know exactly what climate is going to charge. for lazer cutting they charge by the minute. it sounds like it could get expensive, but it's not. they claim the average .40 size airplane kit takes about 20 min's. i've built a few of those, so i know that there's a lot of cutting involved. a 1/10 scale hydro will most likely be easier. if you send them a plan that is ready to go and on disk they can likely turn it around in a day (that's what they told me). i need to discuss with them aobut using a paper plan and any extra cost involved. check 'em out here:

http://www.climatemodels.com/

btw...i plug climate a lot, they have a great product and are awesome to deal with. when i see something i like, i like to tell people about it.

[Watercadet]

Ditto on the Climate endorsement! My FF.12 (hull only) was built by Peter himself for a trade show :D Sold it to me for a song!
Adam

[Hydro Junkie]

Uh, Doc, you're starting to make me sound like the master boat builder. Let me set the record straight. ANYONE WITH COMMON SENSE CAN BUILD A HYDROPLANE. I might be push the envelope a little with you (a deranged army type :D ), but so be it. The big things are to keep it lite and use good materials in the correct applications. If you try to use 1/8th ply to skin a curved surface, you're bound to fail. If you use a 1/16th or 1/32nd for the same location, it will work fine. See what I mean? It's all just a matter of common sense :)

[BoatDoc]

HJ...i wasn't trying to make you sound like a master. you just happen to have more experience than i do, so you're the one that the hydro questions go to. here's an idea though...once my stuff shows up to start building the '77 atlas, i was thinking about starting a thread to follow it's progress. that way some of the other guys that want to build a scale hydro can see what's involved. i'm learning as i go on this one, so i might as well share a bit.

[Hydro Junkie]

Next thing you're going to say is you will want pics of my boat too, for both comparison and for your reference use

[BoatDoc]

um...sure why not. :D

[Hydro Junkie]

How did I know you would say that :rolleyes:

[Watercadet]

I think you boys need a moderator for this exercise... someone like me! You can send me all the updates and I will ref. the match :D
Adam

[BoatDoc]

WC...you're probably right, i tend get a bit cocky sometimes. the main reason why i challenged HJ to this project is so that i could learn a thing or two about building a scale hydro. he got me addicted to the idea just by talking about 'em all the time and i couldn't resist getting one for myself :D too addicted maybe...as my other project as of today is a "semi-scale" electric hydro that's only 16.25" long.

[abx131]

Boat Doc I can vouch for you. After a day with HJ I am hooked. I want to build a scratch boat!!! HJ definitely know his stuff and he knows how to preach. HJ, I bet your house is full of hydro photos and I bet the woman hates it!!!!! I still have not told my wife I want to build one, she is gonna flip out!!

[Hydro Junkie]

To answer that, it's yes and no. Yes, I have lots of hydro pics around the house, primarily Turbine Madisons and Pay N' Paks, some posters and plans. As for the significant other, she endorses it fully!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! As far as she's concerned, I could be out in the bars every night chasing chicks and getting drunk, so if it keeps me out of trouble, she's all for it :D

[Rosati]

Took the bud out for a run today. Man, was it chilly this morning!
She ran great for the first few runs. Still breaking in the engine but she's picking up speed.
I managed to get some good video of it whith my son running the camera. I ended the day by flipping her on the lid when the left sponson dug into a small swell from a passing boat. It amazed me how fast it filled with water when it went upside down. I hardly had any water in the hull all morning. I guess the next mod it to swap out to a berrylim prop and some better pushrod seals.
Anyone know how to get video uploaded from a Sony digitla handycam?

[Rosati]

Here are a few pics from the run Saturday morning.

[Rosati]

Another

[Rosati]

another view

[Rosati]

catching some air!

[Rosati]

Just gotta love riding the prop!

[Rosati]

For those of you who are frustrated with your Proboat, be patient. As you can see, these things do run and are a blast to drive. Mine is still running rich and has yet to see full throttle for more than a quick yank or two, but it is running better with each pass. This boat is stock out of the box except for some stiffening of the hull and the radio box lid. Plastic prop and rich needle settings and a slight shove from the bank will get going. Thanks to those who asked questions before me and many thanks to those who aswered thier questions. It has been a great help.
I only hope I can return the favor to someone else in the future.

[abx131]

I love that last pic. I've seen mine do that many times. Then I crashed it and now seeing those pics make me envious.

[Hydro Junkie]

I like the one I shot of the Oh Boy! Oberto with only the prop, rudder and skidfin in the water over in the beginners section

[Rosati]

The buds getting faster now with every run now that the .15 is broken in.
Now that I'm getting more speed in the straights, she seems to resist turning sometimes. Sometimes it turns really well and even shoots a nice wall of water off the turn fin, but other times it just acts like there is no rudder at all requiring a huge turning radius.
I realize the standard servo isn't up to snuff so I will replace it with a high torque soon. My questions are about the rudder.
Is there a better replacement I can use rather than mod the one I have?
If I sharpen the rudder on the left leading edge only, will this counteract the prop walk at high speed and/or will there be any adverse effects at slow speed as well?

[Hydro Junkie]

I would pull the rudder assembly and mount a beefier one when you replace the rudder servo. A heavier doubler would be advisable as well when mounting a better rudder and bracket. I know Water cadet has redone his whole boat so you might want to check with him on what he used.

[Watercadet]

Thanks HJ- I have a Hughey rudder and a home made mount. I use a stock servo and a 4-40 steel rod with metal clevis and Du-Bro Ez-connector at the other end. I think the stock rudder is adequate, but would check to make sure the servo is anchored well. My stock blade did bend with normal usage though... Fine design sells the rudder that I use. It is a pain to move the rudder to the other side because of the holes for the push rod being numerous. I would leave it there and make sure that everything is solid. As for sharpening the left side. I know that we only shapren the right side (the outside) edge of the turn fin and I think that a thin and sharp rudder will be better than a feathered edge. My set up is rock solid now. So mush so that the boat pulled the bottom screw out of the turn fin and flipped it up and away. Quick fix though just a little CA and a new screw. But the thing TURNS.
Adam
P.S. My Buddy might be FOR SALE....

[Rosati]

I've just aquired some stainless steel from work and am planning a new wider turn fin and longer rudder. I have removed the servo's and linkage already to prep the radio deck for some stiffing. In order to keep the moisture issues to a minimum, I am planning on some styrene plastic epoxied to the bottom of the radio box to mount the servos on.

[airhead13013]

i didnt get to read all of the comments, so i dont know if someone already said this, but i have a bud also. to keep water out of the hull i took a bead of silicone and put it along the edge of the cockpit wit out the canapy on, then put wax paper on top, then the canopy on. let it dry and then remove the wax paper and it makes a 'gasket'. it took some touching up with a second bead to make the 'wall' higher on the outside, but it works nice, and if you mess up you can just remove it.