Tamiya style battery connectors

[tc3guy]

I'm going to get a hot modified in the 10-13 turn range and i was wondering whether or not tamiya style battery connectors will melt. I've got an LRP pro sport esc if you were wondering.

[XXXER]

It all depends on how good of a connection your plugs have, some are better, some are not as tight of a fit, i strongly suggest that you get new Deans 2 pin plugs, i use em, and have not had a problem, you will enjoy your investment later on.

[tc3guy]

Also if i get new connectors how exactly do you soder them on, because i've never done that before so any tips are welcomed.Thanks

[Conman]

I don't think you need to sodder either.

[tc3guy]

So you just kinda clip them on?

[Nairb]

No, you DO have to solder them. That is FOR SURE. It should be pretty simple, but look here at RCCA and elsewhere for some tips. I've seen some tutorials and they're worth checking out.

[Walter T Flower Jr]

Go with the sermos type connector, they will handle lots of juice and will not melt like the Tamiya type.

[Nairb]

I use those plugs (Sermos, Litespeed, red & black, whatever you want to call 'em) and they work great, but one ting is for sure. They are a HUGE pain to solder on to 12 guage wire. The Deans connectors aren't as hard to solder, but they are harder to connect and disconnect. That matters to me. So for that and a couple other reasons, I'm sticking with my connectors.

[DC_Racing]

I use the Dean's connectors, and YES you do need to solder them. It's fairly simple... You just need a really hot soldering iron.

1) Strip off approx. 1/8" of insulation from the wire.
2) Tin the exposed wire, but try not to let any solder flow up the wire, and into the insulation as this will make it hard.
3) Slide a piece of heat-shrink down the wire. (1/2 the size of what's included per wire works pretty good.)

On the male plug, the "bars" are spring loaded on 1 side of the red plastic piece, this is the part that goes inside of the female connector. DO NOT HEAT/SOLDER THIS SIDE!!! The following information pertains ONLY to the non-spring loaded side!!!

4) Heat the - bar on the side furthest from center. Apply solder to the side closest to center. (If your iron isn't very hot, you may need to heat the same side you solder. This is usually harder, but works just as well)

5) Heat the + bar on the side furthest from the - bar. Apply solder to the side closest to the - bar. (Once again, if you need to, heat the same side you solder. Also, if you're using 12ga. wire, it's difficult to fit the wire on this side of the + bar. If it doesn't look like it'll work, just apply the solder to the "outside" of the + bar.)

6) Let the wires cool, and slide the heat-shrink over the solder "joint." Use a hair-dryer/heat-gun to heat and shrink the heat-shrink.

7) Repeat steps 4-6 on the other half of the connector (male or female). Make sure the connectors fit snug, but aren't too difficult to connect/dis-connect.

The + side is the larger side of the connector, - is the smaller side of the connector. The reason you want a hot iron, is so the solder melts, and you can pull the iron away before the heat travels up into the plastic part. I've had this happen before, and the connectors don't work! It melts the plastic, and the metal bar shifts, and they don't line up anymore.

I REALLY hope this helps!!! If not, there's also instructions in the package.

[DC_Racing]

D'oh! I left out a big, but obvious part! LOL

After you've got the connectors "tined", hold your + wire on the + side of the connector, and solder them together. Do the same for the - side. Remember, male plug goes on the ESC, female plug goes on the battery(s). Then, you can put the heat-shrink on.

[ZenLosi]

A good tip for Dean's Ultra plugs is to take the plug you're soldering connect it to an adjoining plug. What happens is, when you heat it to the high temperatures, it can distort the plug and make it hard to connect or disconnect the plug. This will keep it from distorting. Also, some good ELECTRICAL flux helps out with the headaches of soldering large, 12 gauge wire!

-Zen

[This message has been edited by ZenLosi (edited 01-24-2001).]

[rvrrun]

I also use Sermos on all of my cars and had a bit of bad luck once. During a race, the plugs disconnected and ruined any chance of winning let alone finishing.

Now I use a small tie wrap to hold the plugs together. I assume this would work with Deans or other plugs that don't have a positive lock like Tamiya.


MS

[XXXER]

Go to your LHS and help them solder on your new plugs(they will be especially happy if you buy them there) and if they do not, then tehy are punks

[XXXER]

Also, DC, thanks for typing all of that, hehe, i did not want to

TC3, if you have any more ?'s, ask away

[tc3guy]

Also I was wodering what turn and what motor would work best for my TC3?

[tc3guy]

Oh I forgot thanks for all the help!!!!