View Full Version : Hot Bodies Lightning Stadium (PRO/RTR)
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CRSMP5
09-19-2006, 11:16 AM
i could not find any photos of how to build the clutch.. was looking around.. but yea.. something had to be off.. when the clutch wears the springs will get closer and closer to the cb.. when it gets to the point of the springs about to contact the cb is the time to replace them. kinda how i knew something was off..
3 tanks is nothing.. get a gal thru it.. then see how tuning is.. all i know is i played with someones one day.. for a few hours.. coul dnot resolve it.. he purchased a new carb.. got about 1/2 gal thru it then same thing happened.. he sealed it up.. did this and that.. and finally gave up.. its th eonly one ive seen in person.. then i read about others having same issue..
me i decided turbo plugs are mostlikely at fault.. IMO the rb/rossi type of engines that use them too are way too finiky on tune for the same reason.. the one i owned that i sold let me down 2x in ways standard plugs never did.. and i still have exceptional lack of issues with standard plugs..
scalzo236
09-21-2006, 12:02 PM
I need help my gearboxes are always breaking where the screws go in right below the gearshafts on both the front and rear. anyone now a way to fix this?
Hotbodies LSP
CRSMP5
09-21-2006, 04:53 PM
what screws are you using?
scalzo236
09-24-2006, 10:58 AM
the stock ones and the stainless steel ones i bought in a screw kit for the lighting
CRSMP5
09-25-2006, 10:31 AM
stainless is junk.. the stock ones.. are they "wood screw type" or machine thread? th ewood screw ones are junk.. the newer machine thread ones are much stronger.. amain carries the machine thread ones.. think they are considered diff screws.. been a while since i had to buy any..
scalzo236
09-25-2006, 04:01 PM
It's not the screws that keep breaking but the actual diff case i have gone through like 4 of them is the heavy duty diff case anybetter? If anyone knows please help
thanks
CRSMP5
09-25-2006, 08:52 PM
good screws = non broken cases.. the problem is the screws come loose.. then the plate moves, and then the case breaks.. so again what screws are you using for the stock 3.5mm spots that hold the hing pin braces, toe block, caster block to the diff case..
p.s. my LSP has over 22 gal of fuel thru it.. ive went thru about 7 diff cases.. all of them due to screws.. once i foudn the machine thread hb screws.. problems were resolved on that area breaking.. for the area for where it bolts to chassis tony's screws are da bomb and do not break the diff cases..
scalzo236
09-26-2006, 08:12 AM
thank you crsmp5 I will look into those screws they sound like the ticket for my problem.
chestnut007
09-26-2006, 09:56 PM
i don't mean to barge into coversation but would you say to get those tony's screw sets very inportant to have?
CRSMP5
09-27-2006, 05:29 AM
i dislike the idea of changing the 3.5mm stuff into 4mm.. the problem is NO aftermarket screw companies can get 3.5mm screws.. the old wood type screws were soft and came loose.. ive had very little issue with the 3.5mm machine thread ones though.. but yes a real screw kit is great to have and tony has a great kit..
chestnut007
10-09-2006, 06:22 PM
i just got the machine thread screws for the center diff and the screws are too big for the holes on the gear, did/is any body having this problem? Thanks becasue im going through a bunch of dill bits trying to go through this stuff
chestnut007
10-09-2006, 08:46 PM
D'oh! My dad actually drilled the holes three drills bits later and i was dumb enough to leave the bevel grear and set pin on and the gear fell off and i cought it and the pin went into the dark catacombs of my garage. Looks like another trip to the hobby shop!
CRSMP5
10-10-2006, 11:05 AM
your doing something major wrong... you should not have to drill ANYTHING.. the center diff is 3mm im assuming gear onto plastic cup.. stock screws work great, never been a issue there..
chestnut007
10-10-2006, 06:36 PM
oh really? Oh well it's too late now i thought this was the part you guys are talking about. I kust wanted to make sure this didn't happen to me and yes i do have the plastic case. Man, those gears are made out of some tuff stuff. And btw those tony's screws are awesome!
4DMNYC
11-04-2006, 08:49 AM
Guys, does anyone know where I can buy an alloy rear hingpin holder/toe in block for my LSP? I know it's prolly somewhere in this thread but I couldn't find it. Thanks
chestnut007
11-04-2006, 10:12 PM
You can get the hing pin holders at amainhobbies.com or some hobby shops (but they might have to special order it).
Anyways, this thread is kind of dead so I'd figure I'll post some pictures of my LSP the night before the last race of the season. You may notice a few new upgrades since the last picture I posted of it (hardened steel differential grears, king heads front tourqe arm, axial .28 engine, and the the 17mm converison all lst cvds, and also i changed the diff oils to 7,10,3)
http://static.flickr.com/112/289027804_8e08c4cdd8.jpg
and with the body off
http://static.flickr.com/112/289027801_6323fb6a57.jpg
CRSMP5
11-04-2006, 10:56 PM
HB and king headz makes alloy toe blocks..
piggybackrevo
11-06-2006, 02:02 AM
anyone know if there is an after market chassis for the lightning pro arr if so part number please??? other wise anyone got a part number for the stock pro arr chassis cuz i need a new one thanks alot
piggy
balang_479
11-06-2006, 02:20 PM
chestnut, are those 17mm hubs you got on there?? how did you mount em?
JIMMYBANGBANG
11-06-2006, 03:57 PM
im selling my lightning for 275 as a roller. its loaded with allot of hop ups. 17mm conversion, KMW axels, Kyosho diffs, kyosho ball ends to run zero offset, carbon fiber rear support brace custome painted body, lots of spare parts. if any of you guys are interested, let me know. here is a pic of it, im selling it as a roller. so the engine electrics and servos are not included.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v679/noximus/trackLSP037.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v679/noximus/trackLSP038.jpg
chestnut007
11-06-2006, 11:06 PM
well, balang_479, yes they are 17mm hubs, and im not sure what you mean by by mounting them, but they are these right here (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_103/products_id/2717)
i didn't have to modtify anything to install them, one tip though, don't use any other hexes or at least the ofna extender ones because they need some sanding on the part of them that faces the bearings, i actually found this out the hard way.
Any ways, my race was pretty succesful, 7,10,3 doen't work on my track tough, one other guy has a lsp and he told me to use 10,30,3 or 7 and to use the hot bodies blue springs in the front and the red ones in the back. He's one of the leading compeditors. I did break some thing though
http://static.flickr.com/102/291131995_4595da509b.jpg
i also broke the ball end that holds the front sway bar, yet another reason the alunimim arms
jimmybangbang-i sure wish i had the more for that, looks so awesome compared to mine
CRSMP5
11-07-2006, 04:12 AM
BCE makes a chassis that exceeds HB's
anyone know if there is an after market chassis for the lightning pro arr if so part number please??? other wise anyone got a part number for the stock pro arr chassis cuz i need a new one thanks alot
piggy
piggybackrevo
11-07-2006, 08:00 AM
hi guys just wondering i havent raced my lightning pro arr on a track yet but i was jumpin a decent size jump yesterday prolly just to steep but was wondering is the truggy with the aluminum arms to heavy???? should i keep them or is it better to race with the plastic ones???? if so im going to switch to plastic to reduce alot of the weight let me hear your guys opinions
CRSMP5
11-07-2006, 11:49 AM
pg back.. why to NOT use plastic arms..
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Hotbodies/arm1.jpg
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Hotbodies/arm2.jpg
the famous pics of the plastic arms... they also allow you to bend cvds/shock shafts in ways that never happens on aluminum arms..
piggybackrevo
11-07-2006, 07:32 PM
yeah but if they bend oh well i get new ones cusz these metal ones way a TON... how does it jump with aluminum on it??? on the track that is
JIMMYBANGBANG
11-07-2006, 11:13 PM
it jumps just fine with the alum arms. the stock plastic arms are terrible. they bend way too easily. if you want a solution to the problem, run Kyosho STR arms on the LSP.
reason why i never did the change cause i liked the durability of the alum arms.
the LSP hooked up and has great stability. it can be great at certain tracks. a .28 is needed for this truggy. JMHO. some may think different.
piggybackrevo
11-08-2006, 02:23 AM
well i run the axial .32 and picco .28's thats bout it.... besides my ofna .32 and my collari mod
does the kyosho str a arms bold right up ???? i might not even do this after i see how it races but JUST in case.....
Keith-OH
11-08-2006, 02:32 AM
I have ran plastic arms about 4 times now and I did put a small bend in one of my cvds. I never bent a single one when running aluminum arms for 2 years. Here are a few pictures of my new body. This is only like the 4th body I ever airbrushed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/Keith-OH/DSC_0594.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/Keith-OH/DSC_0569.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/Keith-OH/DSC_0578.jpg
piggybackrevo
11-08-2006, 04:11 AM
if i get opinions on the str arms and if they fit right on i might end up trying them.... but i need to go to the track and try out my truggy first waiting to seal up my motor before i do.... let me tell you what axial .32 spec 1 has some BALLS.... i run it around 230 and this thing is wicked.... my collari mod i just get port and polished AKA modded by riderzhobbies i might throw that in and hit up the track and update u guys
CRSMP5
11-08-2006, 10:57 AM
i only use aluminum arms.. my son bent and damaged way too much with plastic ones.. never had a issue with aluminum arms.. sadly im retiring my original lsp this season and jumpin ship to the new mugen.. kinda hope HB comes out with a up to date lsp.. for new ive found the mugen ive drove to be supiror to the rest of the truggies ive tried to date..
Monsterbrad
11-08-2006, 08:09 PM
CR you are jumping ship
YOU SOUND LIKE ME ha ha ha
There is always better out there but mugen has a great fit and finish.
LSP will always be the original truggy but I have to say I like the looks of the Mugen and the Ofna.
I am no longer racing truggies
I jumped to electric 2wd for now.
Maybe nitro again some time in the summer of 2007!
Give me a call some time CR we'll chat
take it easy guys
CRSMP5
11-08-2006, 08:51 PM
you know K&B is gone right brad? it was their last season..
i drove panthers mugen.. and it impressed me in ways the kyosho jammin and others did not.. it feels faster, more stable and i can do more with it on the track.. :P i should be able to gain the 1-2 sec a lap ive been racign for all season.. ive run some fast people.. LOL.. i should have the mugen on dec 7th..
piggybackrevo
11-09-2006, 11:16 AM
which mugen im going to get my mugen mbx5t today hopefully
CRSMP5
11-09-2006, 08:12 PM
mbx5t.. also make sure to check your pm..
CRSMP5
12-14-2006, 11:31 AM
a month with no posts... hmmmmm
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/mugen/r1_1a/27.jpg
da new mugen mbx5t..
Duster_360
12-14-2006, 01:38 PM
WOW, that looks sharp! Bet you can see that on the track!
Living up to your expectations so far?
chestnut007
12-14-2006, 10:19 PM
yea, the offroad racing season is over in my area so i've haven't touch my truggy in a while, currently im doing indoor carpet racing with a Tamiya TL-01 and for Christmas im getting a Xray T2 '007 :)
CRSMP5
12-15-2006, 09:50 AM
tomarrow is first day out with it duster..
Duster_360
12-19-2006, 06:18 PM
Ummm, I guess we'll have to ask...So how'd the initial outing go CR?
Live up to your standards, expectations and desires??
CRSMP5
12-20-2006, 10:17 AM
the only thing that sucked was the brakes.. need some good ones liek a lsp has.. after a few min they fade so bad it will not stop.. LOL.. besides that.. the rear end is planted.. i could only break it free in 1 spot on the track and that sdue to dust/bump before the turn that upset the balance of it.. besides that.. can drive it much harder then a LSP.. im pretty impressed..
tripod borrowed my lsp for the weekend.. he cannot beleive how much better it is vs his lsp.. LOL.. says it turns better and so on.. he in love with it.. LOL..
CRSMP5
01-10-2007, 11:07 PM
got my new toy today..
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/nomadio/team/1.jpg
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/nomadio/team/2.jpg
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/nomadio/team/3.jpg
yea i had to have one.. LOL..
nitro_newbie
01-11-2007, 12:49 AM
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJVH9&P=0
what are the thoughts on this vehicle???durability realiability??looking to get a monster truck and a truggy seems simpla nad diffrent. thanx for the information
nitro_newbie
CRSMP5
01-11-2007, 10:04 AM
it is basically a lightning non pro rtr.. IMO the pro version stadium is the better truck as the plastic arms are junk.. it has a diff spool in it for the center diff.. you can buy one of them, but the rest of the drive train will get abused.. the center diff works as a slipper and helps prevent damage..
nitro_newbie
01-11-2007, 08:52 PM
cool then ill keep it as an option.
hyperstang
01-12-2007, 12:52 AM
I am actually thinking about "reviving" my LSP. It has been sitting on the top bunk of my kids room since last Novembers Championships. I was thinking of picking up the TNX 5.??, then I looked up and saw the LSP on the bed and I said...."I almost forgot I had one".
Thinking of picking up the OS 30 for this bad boy. Which one would fit in the LSP again, was it the one for the Savage. I have a starterbox so which ever one. I forgot??
thanks guys..
CRSMP5
01-12-2007, 04:22 PM
id get the one with no pullstart if you have a bump box..
GasGod
01-13-2007, 11:11 AM
Anyone have or tried a stadium 10?? Basicly a lsp 10th scale w/slipper ,but I wonder if the center diff from the 1/10 buggy will fit.Looks cool --lol
hyperstang
01-13-2007, 08:38 PM
They actually started racing those at our Local off road track....looks pretty neat. Also got to drive my friends one for one heat and I placed first among the HPI MT's.
CRSMP5
01-13-2007, 11:56 PM
yes the diff from the 1/10th buggy fits it and replaces the slipper.. no i do not own one.. no place i go runs 1/10th gas.. and the 2wd people would get pissy..
hyperstang
01-14-2007, 01:37 AM
I think that I need to put an order in to Towerhobbies for the OS 30. Is the stock gearing to low or should I go up???
CRSMP5
01-14-2007, 11:57 AM
i suggest the tsais t32/m32 pipe for it too.. i would start off with stock gearing, then go up to a 14t cb and then maybe a 15t cb.. but you need to pay attention to clutch life/slippage issues when gearing it up..
I am just getting back into the R/C scene after a year break to catch up with my R/C bills that got me (8) R/C's within 6 months. I still have my original LS rtr and I just ran it the other day and its still holding up. However flipping through the 103 pages of post and seeing what has been done on these machines, I am looking towards a better chassis. I saw posts about a BCE V2 Chassis???......where can I get my hands on one OR is there something else out there as an option for a better chassis?
Please provide links to your info on where to purchase from.
Thanks!!
CRSMP5
01-24-2007, 10:39 AM
BCE is only option..
chestnut007
01-26-2007, 12:08 PM
i agree
turk182
02-13-2007, 05:48 AM
this truck looks great, i have the sport 4wd 1/10 truck coming to me as we speak.
CRSMP5
02-13-2007, 11:11 PM
sweet
tespis
03-02-2007, 12:30 PM
I’m thinking about buying a LSRR as my first rc car, what do you think is it still worth its price? Or maybe you will advice me something different, around LSRR price.
RobertCrav
03-02-2007, 01:20 PM
I think it depends on what you are looking to do with it...are you going to race, bash, play in a parking lot?
I did a fair amount of research looking for a truggy...and for the money I thought it couldn't be beat. Especially if you buy one now from Ultimate Hobbies...$259 for the Pro-R
Everyone I talked to and the multiple forums I read, said that it could still be competitive if set up well. So I went for it. From what I understand it's pretty durable for the most part, just need to get the diffs set up right and get an additional brace or two. One downside is that it comes with 14mm hexes, as most newer truggies have 17mm. I bought my LSP-R from Ultimate last week, and have already ordered all the parts needed to make it 17mm...
Good Luck!
Rob
I’m thinking about buying a LSRR as my first rc car, what do you think is it still worth its price? Or maybe you will advice me something different, around LSRR price.
tespis
03-03-2007, 05:24 AM
Well, i'd like to play at park/forest at the beginning but after some time it will be nice to have some races.
You talked about the pro kit version, i'm thinking about rtr lighting stadium, and not the sport or pro but this first model RR. There is a sale on my local model shop, but i'm not sure if i should get it .... :confused:
RobertCrav
03-04-2007, 11:57 AM
There are three models of the 1/8 Lightning Stadium
the Sport RTR, the Pro RTR and the Pro-R ARR. I would recommend the Pro RTR as it has the aluminum arms, and some other hop ups as well, the Sport RTR has some weak plastic arms, that tends to cause axle bind, and bending...
If you are online at all, Ultimate hobbies has them all on sale right now, the Pro RTR is $329, the Pro-R is $259 and the Sport is $249
Rob
CRSMP5
03-07-2007, 09:01 AM
pro version fo raluminum arms.. be it rtr or the other.. the plastic arms are junk..
chestnut007
03-07-2007, 07:10 PM
+1 on that, I bent a cvd when I was running plastic arms, I should have went with the pro version...
nitro_newbie
03-20-2007, 03:11 AM
i wasn wondering what part numbers are the brake disc and other associated parts. because i might put a center diff in my maxx to run my .21bb. any help would be appreciated.
thanx
nitro_newbie
CRSMP5
03-22-2007, 11:06 AM
i would do ebay for a complete center diff set up.. would be much cheaper then buying single parts..
chestnut007
04-02-2007, 12:10 AM
I own a Lightning Stadium RR and I'm thinking about buying a Pro-R one in place for it and using the RR for spare parts. Do you guys think thats a good idea instead of buying all the upgrades separately?
CRSMP5
04-03-2007, 04:59 PM
IMO yes.. at the moment amain has the pro-r for 420ish..
chestnut007
04-04-2007, 12:23 AM
i also found out that Ultimate Hobbies is selling it for $259.95 too :cool:
MikeWz
04-07-2007, 03:45 PM
Thinking about picking up the Pro-R. Just out of curiosity, does it fit a pull start motor...or do I need a starter box? Trying to keep the price down a bit, so a PS would be nice.
chestnut007
04-07-2007, 04:01 PM
a pull start will fit, I used to have one on my Axial .28 in my LS-RR
CRSMP5
04-09-2007, 11:46 AM
depends on the engine.. the pro-r comes with cnc engine mounts.. they are 1mm shorter then stock.. so some pull starts do not fit..
chestnut007
04-22-2007, 09:44 PM
I was at my local track yesterday. What happened is some guy with a savage was doing high speed runs up (and down :eek: ) the straight away. So I placed my lsp on the beginning of the straight away, clearly out of the way and sure enough this guy wailed into the front end of my truck. He bent the front shock tower (4mm thick!) and broke off the head lights on my front bumper. The cool thing is that he's paying for the repairs. Here's some pics: http://farm1.static.flickr.com/224/469239162_dda1aaab9e.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/232/469239156_ecf5b3ce4e.jpg
CRSMP5
04-26-2007, 05:22 PM
wow ive never seen a bent one.. LOL..
chestnut007
04-27-2007, 03:15 PM
Me neither, until now of course. I was kind of amazed that that was the only thing that bent/broke, considering that the guy's savage was moving pretty fast when he hit me.
scoyle
06-18-2007, 06:18 PM
Guys,
I have just bought an LSP Pro and I would like to do the following mods
Move to CVDs all round
Move to 17mm all round
and possibly do the 22 degree front hub conversion
Can anyone point me in the direction of a list of parts to do this?
Thanks,
chestnut007
06-18-2007, 09:55 PM
you'll find it all here: http://www.truggyracers.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=45
Hi. I recently bought a LSP-R with Nosram vtec .28 engine (known as LRP engine in USA). I use to drive a TNX 5.2R but got fed up with it bcos of the lack of availability of spares and the dodgy roto-start system. I chose the LSP-R bcos I also own a L2P and its proven to me to be a very reliable buggy. So my choice of truggy was obvious. Here are pics:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/Ken4/LSPR01.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/Ken4/LSPR02.jpg
The only mod I've done so far is to replace it with a 150cc Kyosho Inferno STR fuel tank. I was surprised that it was nearly a direct fit. :) I've raced it only twice at a track and I absolutely love it. It's not as clusmy as a MT and has some nimbleness of a buggy. Here are some videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZRGmsRHs6I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AT3pQv4fp6Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kARFijox26s
Can someone tell me how I can make my mostly stock LSP-R turn sharper? It seems to make slightly wide turning. My friends STR turns very sharp and he always gets me on the turns. Mine seems to have a little bit of power on push. I noticed the stock front shocks seems to have too much damping, like 50wt oil. Could that be the problem? Or could it be the stock tires? I adjusted the steering dual rate to the max but it doesnt help. Or could playing with the diff oils help? Thanks for your replies.
chestnut007
06-21-2007, 10:41 PM
there's a whole section devoted to making the LSP turn better on http://www.truggyracers.com/
Edit: Looks like you already asked there! I should have checked before.
I have another question on diff oils. Does the stock LSP-R diffs come with diff oils? Or are they only greased?
Im thinking of adding diff oils if they are not, cos my rear end seems sometimes break loose when I gun it. Im thinking 5k front, 7k center, 3k rear might be something to start out with.
Thanks for your replies.
Lonely
07-01-2007, 02:40 PM
:)Looks like you were having some serious fun there!:)
Yup. :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/Ken4/SKFWe29-6-07.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/Ken4/SKFWf29-6-07.jpg
chestnut007
07-01-2007, 10:44 PM
whoa, what happened to the wheel?:eek: Here's my current setup:
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1384/690217272_4ff9aabb2a.jpg
Im trying out Proline Bowtie MTRs now. Better cornering performance. But lacks lateral grip.
crazy4wdracer
07-02-2007, 01:49 PM
cool videos!!!:D
chestnut007
07-02-2007, 08:17 PM
videos? where? anyways, how could you tell that those were MTRs? I personally like them better than the regular MTs
Lonely
07-04-2007, 07:11 PM
:)JP2 pipe looks nice, we've only got the stock HB 26 engines in our LPS's still is it worth fitting a pipe to these and if so which one, they pick up quick enough but seem a bit strangled at the top?:)
chestnut007
07-04-2007, 11:10 PM
thanks! the JP-2 is made for better top end so that sounds like what you need.
CRSMP5
07-07-2007, 01:22 AM
tsais t32/m32 if you plan to keep a 25+ engine in it..
nitro_newbie
07-09-2007, 06:23 PM
what are you guys using for the 23mm wheels. i dont see proline offering some.
chestnut007
07-09-2007, 11:01 PM
that's because we're using 17mm hub wheels! :)
nitro_newbie
07-10-2007, 05:08 PM
well i guess thats a good reason. but is there an option for 23mm? and do they come stock with 14mm? thanks alot.
chestnut007
07-11-2007, 12:29 AM
yes and yes. you could use http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_24_107/products_id/3243
but a lot of people don't use 23mm hubs because of how wide the 40 series wheels/tires are which cause poor steering
CRSMP5
07-11-2007, 09:23 AM
23mm adapters break stubaxels in big ways.. why we went 17mm conversion with buggy 8mm axels..
chestnut007
07-11-2007, 10:40 PM
+1 i agree
Lonely
07-19-2007, 05:46 PM
:)Who races their LSP's and if you do which if any of the anti roll (sway) bars do you use, front, back, front & back or none?:)
balang_479
07-19-2007, 07:30 PM
:)Who races their LSP's and if you do which if any of the anti roll (sway) bars do you use, front, back, front & back or none?:)
I dont have an LSP but it works for all truggies.
It depends on what track your running on i guess.. most of the time youd run front & back for extra stability in corners and reduces roll, but if the track is incredibly bumpy youd take the front one off, but only in extreme cases..
Lonely
07-20-2007, 07:55 AM
:)Tracks not incredibly bumpy, it's hard packed dirt with a loose surface. I orignally disconnected the front one to help improve turn in this seemed to help so I took it off altogether.
The back has a tendency to come round on me powering out of a corner so I did the same with the rear.
I'm currently not running any but most people seem to run with them so perhaps I should put thinner diff oil in the rear, currently running 7/10/3. It's also been suggested I try different tyres, currently running HPI Nubz.:)
CRSMP5
07-23-2007, 01:10 AM
a few things..
what toe block, and track surface is it ever tacky?
what springs, shock oils are important too..
diff oils seem ok
short wheel base mod helps alot too
Lonely
07-23-2007, 12:57 PM
:)CRSMP5,
Stock 56mm toe block (alloy Edit part), track only ever gets grip when it rains.
Shocks are exactly as they came out of the box as far as oil and springs go.
Currently running running HPI Nubz, the buggy guys run Pro Line Badlands in the dry and mini spikes in the wet. I didn't know whether to try the Badlands MT's or perhaps the HPI Aggressor tyres both of which have a much larger block pattern tread?
Where can I find the short wheelbase mod you refer to?
Thanks.:)
CRSMP5
07-24-2007, 10:59 AM
short wheelbase mod (http://www.truggyracers.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=7773) rc zone may remove this link as they hate my forum..
change the shock oil... stock is crap..
try the 59mm toe block.. it will help ya keep planted, the king headz +1 anti squat plate also helps..
Lonely
07-25-2007, 08:01 AM
:)Thanks for that, should I go with the 40/35wt shock oil or do I need something different?:)
t-maxxjr
07-25-2007, 08:13 AM
i would love to buy it but stadiums are'nt my thing sorry
CRSMP5
07-25-2007, 11:51 AM
i alwasy ran 40 front, 35 rear
Lonely
07-25-2007, 12:14 PM
:)CRSMP5, I just changed the oil in my shocks, 40/35 as suggested, and I was amazed at how clean the old oil was when it came out, still crystal clear! After a couple of meets the oil in our 1/10 TC's comes out grey as anything, presumably something to do with whatever Tamiya coat the inside of their shocks with?:)
crazy4wdracer
10-14-2007, 10:51 AM
could I put hpi hellfire ss arms on my lsp? I converted it to brushless and I want to lighten it up for racing.
Why dont you buy the HB plastic arms HBC8158 instead. They are a direct fit.
chestnut007
10-14-2007, 09:50 PM
Because they flex too much. Go with the ST-R arms if you want to run plastic arms.
crazy4wdracer
10-15-2007, 10:26 AM
what mods will I have to do to put on the str arms?
chestnut007
10-15-2007, 06:56 PM
You might need some spacers between the arms and the hubs, but other than that they should drop right in. I haven't done this my self but I know people who've done this swap.
Technex
09-19-2008, 08:59 AM
Hey guys, I understand this is a very old thread and I've read through most of the pages over the last few days but I have a question which hasn't seem to be answered.
What diff housing would you recommend? Stock one seems to wear down way to fast.
CNC worth the money/weight or just over hyped?
For use with my LSP-R (hardened gears). Bashing not racing.
Once again sorry for bumping, but this seems to be the best place on the web for the LSP!
Thanks in advance!
Technex
09-19-2008, 01:53 PM
Anyone, please? Thank you! Sorry, no nitro fumes is making me go kinda cranky :D. About a week and a bit now :(.
chestnut007
09-21-2008, 06:39 PM
Hi! Welcome the the forums. The aluminum diff housings that you see on ebay are not needed. I've been racing my LSP with plastic diff housings for about 3 years and have had no problems. Sorry I couldn't help you out earlier.
Technex
10-26-2008, 07:35 PM
Hi! Welcome the the forums. The aluminum diff housings that you see on ebay are not needed. I've been racing my LSP with plastic diff housings for about 3 years and have had no problems. Sorry I couldn't help you out earlier.
Hi, (lol just checking back here for tips, I thought I posted here!).
I wish I read this earlier on, but do not worry I went with the plastics again.
This time I brought the HB shim kit and, silicone oil and new hardened diff gears for all three diffs.
Seems lovely and smooth now, so quiet and fast, unlike before where it was slipping... :mad: Complete rebuild every screw other than the engine.
I'm just trying to search through the thread but it's not working.
Trying to increase off power steering more, on power is great.
The problem is over jumps the nose already keeps bouncing down (rear bouncing up) so I can't make the rear suspension even harder (to help steering).
Then I read about anti roll rods. Front should be softer to help steering radius at low speeds, and rear tougher.
How do I go about doing this? Do I just slide the connectors out at the front and in at the rear (and screw them up obv)?
Thanks guys!
chestnut007
10-28-2008, 03:27 PM
I don't mean to be mean but this has been discussed many times before; you can find better info here: http://www.truggyracers.com/forum/index.php?showforum=28
I hope this helps, if not leave another post.
Technex
10-29-2008, 05:20 PM
Cheers Chestnut! :)
Technex
11-13-2008, 02:34 PM
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=2374624
O.S. 21 engine for sale.
Thanks for looking!
chestnut007
11-13-2008, 06:30 PM
Any time Technex...
That's what they have forums for right? ;)
Old thread resurrection ;) Picked one of these LSP's, well a hybrid, plastic arms etc. Question is I have an OS30 knocking around, I'm going to drop this in - what size clutchbell is recommended? It's 13T stock but I don't have a 14T, would an OS30 pull a 15T ?
Cheers
ScrubT
03-27-2012, 05:27 PM
Hello everyone.
It's been a while since I have been on forum.
So does anyone have a Bomb Proof brushless chassis conversion for the LSP.,
Only a very, very few have ever been made.
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