Winter How-to build project

[decoy706]

I just picked up another Bud Hull and went looking for the U-3 site but it's gone. I want to convert this one to the U-3 Piston boat. how about some suggestions on where to start. 1/12 scale glass Pro boat is what I'm starting with.
Question #2 is did anyone here buy the 1/18 electric Bud from Japan off E bay and how is it. I know it's pricey but still want to know...

[Hydro Junkie]

If you don't have a set yet, order a set of Turbo Allison plans from www.newtonmarine.com and build the dummy engine. Just don't forget to scale the plans down, as they will be 1/8th scale. You will also need to extend the deck over the radio box, I'm just not sure how far. Lastly, you will need to modify the back of the cockpit. It's rounded instead of flat, so it will need to be changed. How's that for starters? I would check with Alvey's Signs in Evansville Indiana about graphics. They may have made the originals for the real boat. Their website is www.alveysigns.com. They may be able to help you out, like they did for me with my 1999 Miss Madison. Sent me the complete set of programing to make the graphics, not counting the little sponsor stickers.

[Hydro Junkie]

Okay Decoy, how about an update? Is this project going to happen?

[decoy706]

Just started tearing out all the insides on both the Pro Boat and the MRP double wing so I can repair both. It's harder that what I thought as the Double has lots of spray foam that was put in it. That's what blew out the side. The Pro boat hull will be electric 12 cell powered as I'm done with the fuel unless I get an 1/8 scale Bud T-6 hull with the salt water scoop. Just waiting till after San Diego to order plans from Roger as he is busy now. The double wing is going to get a new 32? instead of the K&B 40 that's in it and new running gear. The crap in it is too big and heavy.Also working on a 1/12 Thriftway 2 cut out from 3/16 birch and going to skin it in carbon fibre/top &bottom.Still have 3 MRP Hydros to deceide what to do with (Bud "NFS" and 2 Pringles)

[Hydro Junkie]

All sound good, except the Thriftway 2. Are you really using 3/16th ply, or is that a typo? On a 1/12th hull, the heaviest ply should be no more than 1/8th, and that's only for the rear and sponson transoms. The rest should be 1/16th and/or 1/32nd, to keep weight down to the minimum possible. Otherwise, you're looking at having a power hungry slug that may or may not get up on plane. Even the 1/8th boats I build are 95% 1/16th, with 1/8th for 2 to 4 frames(depending on the hull type) and 1/4 for the transoms.

[decoy706]

Rear and last sponson rib along with the side frame. Did I goof ? Rest are 1/16 including nose piece. Figured I needed heavy for stability and for a good foundiation to lay-up the carbon fiber to. My Maverick is way too heavy and I don't even have the decking on yet.36 X 18 play toy/learning lesson.First try at the Thriftway was also too heavy 24 X 14 and no deck. Have to hollow them out I guess to shave some weight.Will shoot you a couple of pics tomorrow of them

[Hydro Junkie]

For the sponson and hull transoms it's a little heavy but not too bad. As for the side frame, not quite sure which one you are referring to. If it's the one on the inside of the sponsons, it's not needed. My big 1/8th and 1/6th scale Madisons/Obertos only use 1/8th for the sponson insides because they're basically unsupported forward of the ramwing. On my Sport 40 and 1/6th scale Pay N' Pak hulls, I used 1/16th because they have more support behind them. Something you might not know, with hydroplanes, the strength is not in the framework. It's actually in the skin. That is why I feel the Pro Boat Buds are junk. They have no strength in the skin, and it shows with how easily they break :( If you have questions, feel free to ask. I'll help any way I can :)

[decoy706]

Thanks will be back with questions as I go