Matched packs importance for brushless systems

[nskn]

I've got myself a Novak 5800 brushless system for my B4 buggy and the XXX-S touring car. I've also got a mixed bag of battery packs, some decent (but old) matched packs but mostly standard stick packs of decent (but unmatched) quality. Need to get some fresh ones, hence the question ...

My question is really how much importance the pack has on the performance with the brushless systems. I heard somewhere that it has less of an impact on brushless systems than on normal mod and stock motors... Is this true?

Some people also seem to have the opinion that one can use lower voltage packs for offroad...

I don't race today but am thinking to start with club level racing during the winter. Any advice on what to get?

I was thinking to get some cheapo matched packs for training and one or two better packs for racing...

Thanks...

[hooligan1]

one thing to remember about matched packs,is they don't stay matched they're good for the first few cycles then they start to become more like a normal pack.they are great for racing (ie the main event)but for club racing or especially bashing unmatched gp3300 would be fine.

[gizmoguy303]

I was thinking to get some cheapo matched packs for training and one or two better packs for racing...

By all means go that route. Get some 1.150-1.159 packs for practice and the qualifiers, and get a nice 1.164+ pack for the Main. You will notice a difference between matched and unmatched packs.

To keep your matched packs in top condition, get a equalizing tray and charge with a good charger. Discharge your matched packs after every run on a separate discharger or your charger (if it has a discharge feature) to 5.4v, then wait a few hours before re-charging. A few minutes before recharging, put them on the tray and equalize the cells. Wait a few minutes, then start charging.

To store them, discharge them to 5.4v. If you are going to use them within the next week, leave them like that. If you are not going to use them within the next week, put about 5 minutes of charge into them.

:cool:

[highroller]

The life of a matched cell may not last any longer than your standard cell. What advantage you do get is the cells are closer in characteristics than an unmatched cell. The amount of runtime and voltage you get depends on the type of racing, track conditions, motor used. For stock offroad and touring car 400 second, 1.14 to 1.16 voltage is more than enough 1.15 may be ideal when traction isn't ideal. Stock oval runtime again 400 seconds max, voltage 1.17+, mod oval 420+, 1.17+ voltage. The ideal cell to use is by far the GP3300 and for cost savings invest in 3-4 low priced packs and 2-3 good packs you need at least one pack for each race heat plus 2-3 as practice and one as a backup in case you enoucounter problems (heat may have to restart due to computer glitches, one battery encountered problems etc). Provided you have sufficient time to properly discharge and cool the pack down between uses you can use it twice with good results, runtime start to decrease between the third and forth cycle. The two best packs could be run for a practice run discharged and cool the use for the 2 or 3rd qual and main heat thereby increasing your chances of qualifiing well and doing better in the mains. Always try to run the best of your equipment either to qualify better in one particular heat and for the main. I generally buy my matched cells from a variety of sources depending on price and numbers I need (SMC Racing, Pro Match Racing, Integy, TQ Cells etc). Pro Match is selling bulk cells (not team but decent for a couple good practice packs, may get 1 decent race pack out of them) in bulk for 12 and 24 loose cells are 88.99. I bought a box of 24cells for 4cell oval and was able to get two decent 1.16 voltage packs. It doesn't really matter is cells are matched at 20, 30 or 35 amp rates use a discharge with the cells that work better for you 20-24 amps is about what I used for offroad and TC packs and 30-35 for oval.

[nskn]

one thing to remember about matched packs,is they don't stay matched they're good for the first few cycles then they start to become more like a normal pack.they are great for racing (ie the main event)but for club racing or especially bashing unmatched gp3300 would be fine.

I thought the packs were matched according to characteristics (voltage, internal resistance etc...), and I would not expect that to change over a few cycles. I suppose the peak voltage may change if the packs are not equalized, but still...

[JimmyMac]

Good batteries on a brushless system can make a huge difference. I noticed this with the "spec/stock" profile on the Novak system racing Touring cars. The better the batteries... the much better the punch. Of course top end is not affect since it's rpm limited. But punch was very noticable. The car accelerated like crazy with very good batteries. On the unlimited profile... you'll gain both punch and topend.

[Pro3/nmt105]

The voltage on packs isnt as important when you run mod beccause you can just run a lower turn motor if runtime allows. A good matched pack is needed though because in an unmatched pack diffrent cells will die before others this is the reason a cheap pack will keep going but slow down 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through the run. In a good matched pack all of the cells are very similar in runtime so they will all die at the same time. So even if you're bashing you will enjoy the benefits of a matched pack. Depending on what type of racing you do it doesnt really matter if the cells are a little off and die at different times because you may only use half of the pack in 5 minutes.

[AlexV2024]

for racing you only need 2-3 packs. at minimum 2 packs, becuase you can charge packs twice in a day and the new orange/green GPs run better on their second charge.

and matched packs do make a diffrence. for racing get 1.160-65 packs. they arnt much more then 1.15s and if you have 3 of the same you spread the usage to more packs.

for the people that say you can use packs with less v's in off road, you really cant. you need the punch just like in TC its just more noticeable in TC. i myself use 1.160's to pratice with and during the quals i have a 1.175 and 1.181 (which i wouldnt have if i didnt find great deals on both of them), if im running stock. if im running 19t or mod i just run the 1.16's and add some storage charge to the higher V packs to save them for another weekend.

promatchracing.com has some of the best packs in the world and they just got alot cheaper this month. their 1.16s are really the sweet spot for cheap but good preforming packs, esp from promatch, which is why i have 3 and only 1 1.175 and 1 1.181. also the only matchers ive found to be true to their labels are promatch, fukuyama, and power push. im sure there are a few others but those 3 just accel at macthing and their zapping styles really make the GP cells shine. (google them if you need their websites) also beware of matchers that discharge at lower amps and just plian lie about their numbers (integy and orion come to mind. they are decent packs but they are not exactly what they claim to be...) any way choose one of the frist 3 i talked about and you wont regret getting matched packs. happy racing ^_^

~Alex