Tamiya Gravel Hound DF-02 Forum [Archive] - Page 18

Vinboi

08-26-2009, 06:07 AM

JDT

08-26-2009, 08:57 AM

you guys know you can get real slicks right?

truck sized 3.8 inches use with hpi truck wheels 2.0 wide

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNPS8&P=7

buggy sized 3.5 inch tall use with super star wheels 1.6 wide

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNPY0&P=7

JDT

08-26-2009, 08:58 AM

needless to say touring car slicks will often times fit but at 2.9 or less inches tall they are usually so short you can't really bash much and bumps will bottom out the car to easily.

timie1

08-27-2009, 05:04 PM

Hey guys. I've decided to do a mini project with my DF02, and more specifically, the ESC (TEU 101BK, the one i got with my kit) and the Motor. I was thinking of getting a better heatsink and using thermal compound to mount it onto the ESC... But for that would I need to make the heat sink that is already in the ESC (Doesnt even look like a heatsink haha) thinner? so I can just glue the new heat sink on top of it (I can try make a diagram if you dont understand...)

TEU-101BK Mod
I am thinking of putting a fan on top of that heatsink, but I don't know where and how to mount it. And even then, I probably cant plug it into my receiver (wouldn't know how it would work) because i've got a simple 2 channel receiver. I was thinking of getting a battery pack (4x 1.5V AA?) and SOMEHOW connecting that to the fan. I had a few ideas that had come into mind, however I don't know how practical they would be.

1) Get a thermistor to only turn the motor on when the temperature reaches a certain temperature

2) Make a sort of 'generator' (From the spinning wheels?) to generate energy for the fan to work. It KINDA makes sense, as you'd want the fan blowing when you are going at full throttle, and not really if you are stationary or whatever.

Motor Mod
If the above options somehow work (knowing me, I doubt it) then I will try something like that as well. The difference this time is that I actually ordered a Motor Heat sink without the fan attached, so I already have the heatsink.

Also, take note that I am only doing this mod because I don't do competition racing, just bashing. Therefore, the extra weight wouldn't be a major problem for me (Whereas overheating is :D)

You most definitely shouldn't hook up some sort of generator from the wheels. It may require 500 watts to get them spinning without a generator, then when you hook up a generator it'll require maybe 700W, and you still only produce 50W from the generator. You'll use more extra energy to get it moving than you'll be producing.
This hasn't been done in real life 1:1 cars yet because of that very fact. They use regenerative braking and kinetic energy recovery to recoup the energy under braking and turning heat into electricity, but not taking drive power away to turn into energy. Divert all drive energy to make it go and take back what you can. You could go to Jaycar or Dick Smith and get a solar panel and run the fan from that. Put the panel on the roof, and hope you don't destroy it when it rolls.

The easiest and simplest way is to tap into the 5V or 6V supply from the ESC that is currently being used to power the RX and servo. Actually, now that I think about it, I'm positive the TEU101 actually feeds the battery voltage unregulated to the servos and rx. So, you'll be feeding the fan 7.2/7.4V.
All you have to do is splice the red and black wires going to the RX and hook up the fan to it then reconnect the said wires back up to the RX.

Now, here's the caveat, it's been a while since I've farted around with the TEU101. I do know it's not the normal ESC/BEC setup of most ESC's out there. So, double check what I'm saying with a multimeter before you go hacking things up. Maybe you will have to test the separate black and red wires coming out of the ESC, I think that carries the voltage. I've forgotten now because it's been so long. At any rate, there will be 5/6V or nominal battery voltage being fed from the ESC. Use that to power your fan.

Or, if you're concerned with chopping the wrong wires and not being able to fix it should you do the wrong ones, just take the voltage DIRECTLY from the battery. Wire up a parallel plug arrangement for the fan.
A 5 or 6V fan will be fine with 7.2V. The power the fan will suck will be so minuscule that it's not going to flatten the battery any quicker.

What motor are you planning on running on your modded setup?
I've run a 15T brushed motor off the TEU101. It got super uber hot, and it thermalled, but it's still alive and kicking. I tried putting a heatsink on it, but I didn't bother with thermal conductive glue or tape, lol. Heatsinks are only good if you have airflow. Without airflow it won't do much. So, cut holes in the body, route ductwork into and around the motor and ESC. I actually made a body scoop for my B4 out of a scrap bit of lexan from the cutoff of the wing. It was out of neccessity, I needed to cut a hole for the ESC to fit in the chassis, but I HATE holes in the body when they are there just because. I disguised the hole as a body scoop and it looks wicked IMO. Works well to get airflow in too.

One final thought about the fan coming only when it gets to a certain temperature - sounds kinda finnicky to hook up. If it was me, I'd just have the fan running all the time so it stays cool. Once it gets hot it's harder to cool it quickly than it is to keep it cool. Just my opinion though.

Vinboi

08-28-2009, 01:40 AM

Or, if you're concerned with chopping the wrong wires and not being able to fix it should you do the wrong ones, just take the voltage DIRECTLY from the battery. Wire up a parallel plug arrangement for the fan.
A 5 or 6V fan will be fine with 7.2V. The power the fan will suck will be so minuscule that it's not going to flatten the battery any quicker.

What motor are you planning on running on your modded setup?
I've run a 15T brushed motor off the TEU101. It got super uber hot, and it thermalled, but it's still alive and kicking. I tried putting a heatsink on it, but I didn't bother with thermal conductive glue or tape, lol. Heatsinks are only good if you have airflow. Without airflow it won't do much. So, cut holes in the body, route ductwork into and around the motor and ESC. I actually made a body scoop for my B4 out of a scrap bit of lexan from the cutoff of the wing. It was out of neccessity, I needed to cut a hole for the ESC to fit in the chassis, but I HATE holes in the body when they are there just because. I disguised the hole as a body scoop and it looks wicked IMO. Works well to get airflow in too.

Thanks for taking the time to reply to my post. I'm a bit iffy on the solar panel thing, as it depends on the weather conditions basically... Once ive got this project done, I'm planning to run a 18T motor. Airflow shouldnt really be a problem for me, as I usually run without the bodykit on (I just bash up and down the street)

I think trying to get battery from the 7.2V might be a bit risky for me, seeing as i'm not too good with wires (imagine me trying to defuse a bomb.. haha) so Ive decided to run a separate battery pack (The ones where u mount 4 AA batteries onto) and find a place to keep that back in place. Ill just have a switch that is connected to the battery pack and fan. Only problem is, I don't know how to calculate how long it would last for..

timie1

08-28-2009, 02:29 AM

I have a theory about people that run without a body.......they do so mainly because the car LOOKS quicker without it, heheheh.

Air flow shouldn't be a problem for you, so go with the heatsink idea.

I wouldn't use the solar panel idea becaue I'd be way too paranoid about it breaking the first time it rolls, and I really don't like wasting money. However, I don't see why it wouldn't work. A solar calculator works inside, or outside under clouds. It's not like you're trying to heat a great big tank of water or power an oven or anything. Those fans draw something in the vicinity of 0.155mah. Such a small amount. Anyway, I still don't think it's practical if you don't want it broken.

This is a serious question, I'm trying to take the mick out of you, so don't be offended......how can anyone be into electric RC cars and batteries and everything if they are no good with wires? How do you plan on wiring the fan and switch to the 4 AA pack?
It's really simple just to take the power directly from the battery. If you can wire a switch up to a fan, you should be able to take the power from the battery. You won't need to calculate how long it would last if you power it directly from the battery. I can draw a wiring diagram for you if it'd help. What sort of battery connectors are you running?

Vinboi

08-28-2009, 05:01 AM

timie1

08-29-2009, 12:49 AM

Haha true about what you said timie1, I'll get experience along the way (I've only been into RC for about 1-2 months :P)

My battery pack has a standard tamiya plug.. I don't know how to take power from that battery though, as it has some plastic wrap around it and I don't wanna rip that open just to rewire it.

I guess if you can draw a quick diagram, that'd be useful to me :D

Here's a quick diagram for you.
I forgot to put the male tamiya plug on that comes from the ESC, but you should get what I mean.

If it were me I'd do option 1. I'd cut the wires going into the plug about 5cm from the plug, then solder the fan and switch wires onto the wires coming from the ESC. Then solder the plug and it's 5cm wires back on, shrinkwrap it all and be done. It's easier and cheaper than buying extra male and female plugs and extra wire and making the adaptor. However if you don't feel comfortable chopping the ESC wires, option 2 is the safer option - you'd not touch the ESC or battery.

Also, my fan on my EZrun esc draws 0.12A @5V.
At 7.2V it would draw less amps in theory using ohm's law.
Whatever theory aside, it draws a tiny amount of power, you won't notice any shorter runtime feeding it from the battery as opposed to a separate AA pack.

If for some reason you feel the urge to cut the wires on the battery (as this would also work, but the fan would always be on even when the battery is sitting on the shelf) make sure you only cut one wire at a time from the battery, work on that, then insulate it. Don't, whatever you do, cut both at the same time with scissors or anything.

The diagrams are a bit crude as I've missed putting some plugs on, but you get the general idea.

EDIT: Oh I forgot to mention, to all those that think the rear wing is only a wheelie bar of sorts, it's a lot more than just that. Get a proper wing, like the JConcepts one forgetful duck and I recommend, run with it on and take note how the buggy handles on low grip. Now take the wing off and see how all over the place it is, in particular on low grip surfaces such as wet roads, offroads tracks and whatnot.
And, I don't expect you all to do this, but get a GPS and put it on the car. Use the wing and record the exact top speed you get. Now take the wing off and see how much faster your top speed is.
They use real wings and other aerodynamic aids on real race cars to generate downforce. In comparison, the wing on a RC buggy is ginormous compared to a 1:1 car. The wing does alter handling considerably. If you can't feel the difference when driving then you're not being observant enough. The same would happen with and without a body. The body cuts down on aerodynamic drag so it will slip through the air easier resulting in less amp draw and quicker top speeds and more downforce.

Vinboi

08-29-2009, 06:04 AM

Thanks for the diagrams (again) timie1. I think option 1 would be the cheaper option, however I don't want to mess something up and end up with an ESC that doesn't work. The only problem I have with option 2 is that I am having some trouble finding Tamiya male/female plugs.

_Will_

08-29-2009, 09:41 AM

so can anyone answer my question quick - cheap UK web based store for buying RC stuff... ? thanks

timie1

08-29-2009, 03:33 PM

Will: With all due respect, how are we going to know of any UK based stores when we all are from North America, or Australia?
I would think that it's probably cheaper for you to buy from the US and pay the shipping, or from Hong Kong and pay the shipping.
The British pound is worth US$1.62, so that's almost half for you. Surely that's cheaper than any UK store.

Vinboi

08-30-2009, 12:31 AM

I would think Hong Kong would have the cheapest prices (Well atleast compared to my LHS in Australia). RCMart (google em) has a very large range of products, so you can browse around and have much more choice compared to many shops. Another shop that comes into mind is Towerhobbies, however I think its more expensive (and the shipping costs almost 2x more for me :S)

g_man

08-31-2009, 12:05 AM

Also, my fan on my EZrun esc draws 0.12A @5V.
At 7.2V it would draw less amps in theory using ohm's law.

I'm sure you'll find that the fan current will be higher on 7.2V than on 5V, but either way it would make stuff-all difference to the hound's run-time.

timie1

08-31-2009, 02:45 AM

Gman, haha, yeah I realised after I typed it. You're right, I was thinking too much into gearing for the same rpm, but as the fan isn't geared for a given rpm, then it will draw more current because it will just spin faster.

I just experimented with a DC12V computer fan, and it draws considerably more current from 8.4V as opposed to running on 14.4V.

But you're right, it'll make stuff all difference in runtime.

Vinboi

08-31-2009, 07:54 AM

Just a quick quesiton, what does this (http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-df02-yeah-racing-titan-turnbuckle-df011bu-p-16191.html) do? Is this part of the steering link or something? If not, where does it go? I don't have my DF-02 with me atm so I can't check.

JDT

08-31-2009, 08:33 AM

I would guess since it has four in there its for the upper suspension arms front and back, usually you would get six turnbuckles to do the steering arms also.

timie1

09-01-2009, 12:29 AM

Just a word of warning Vinboi, if you're thinking of getting that, don't bother. Yeah racing are terrible, and their screws are worse, if that's even possible.

If you are thinking of getting anything along those lines, get this (http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-df02-tamiya-turnbuckle-shafts-53788-p-11698.html?cPath=595_744_712)

That gives you decent tamiya quality for the following:
Steering arms - adjust toe angles
Upper suspension arms - adjust camber (front and rear), no more wearing out the inside of the tire only.
Steering linkage - fine tune steering, may not sound as useful as the others, but I have that part and it is very handy to get equal throw left and right.
Not to mention it's anodized blue, adds some bling and with adjustable upper suspension arms, the car looks 10000000000000000000% more serious :D

They are out of stock, and probably will never get it again, but search around, it's bound to be readily available. Ebay is your friend.

Here is the official Tamiya link http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53788

Web|PLC

09-01-2009, 03:16 PM

Hey guys (especially the new DF02 owners),

If you are looking for rare or hard to get hop-ups,http://www.banzaihobby.com/ (http://banzaihobby.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&keyword=df-02&search_in_description=1&manufacturers_id=&pto=10000&x=0&y=0) usually has them in stock.

For example, you can buy from them:
- Square front & rear carbon damper stay (very rare)
- Front & back carbon stiffeners (very rare)
- Tamiya original hop-up turnbuckle set
- Tamiya universals & cup joints

Prices are good, but shipping is a little high.

GPM Racing products (http://www.gpmparts.com/shop/tamiya-df02-c-1532_1533_1601.html) also carries some stuff, but they are running out of DF-02 parts fast.

Oh and guys, don't go crazy on the hop-ups ;)

tfedsdb

09-02-2009, 07:49 AM

I've noticed that the Plasma Edge buggy is considerably cheaper than the Gravel Hound. Why is this? Does the Plasma Edge not have oil shocks or something.

Web|PLC

09-02-2009, 10:52 AM

I've noticed that the Plasma Edge buggy is considerably cheaper than the Gravel Hound. Why is this? Does the Plasma Edge not have oil shocks or something.

It does have oil shocks. The kit version does, anyways. I have it, its fine. Maybe they priced it lower since it's the latest incarnation of the DF-02.

Vinboi

09-03-2009, 04:14 AM

I've noticed that the Plasma Edge buggy is considerably cheaper than the Gravel Hound. Why is this? Does the Plasma Edge not have oil shocks or something.

The DF-02 Kits (Plasma Edge, Gravel Hound, Rising Storm) are all the same, minus the bodykit.

JDT

09-03-2009, 08:30 AM

yes but there are only two bodies for three cars, the Gravel Hound and Plasma Edge Share a body, the Rising Storm has its own body. I had speculated right off that the PE looked like a GH body, on the tamiya web site they confirm the GH and PE are body and wing 1825294.
The PE is $15 cheaper than the RS at tower and like $3 less than the GH

JDT

09-03-2009, 08:42 AM

champ has the PE and GH at 7400 yen, the RS at 8400 yen, or US $80 and $91, AUD $95 and $108
Roca/tamiya miami is the exact opposite, the RS is $110 and the GH is $119

Vinboi

09-05-2009, 03:54 AM

Hey guys. I've been having this problem since the start - I can't get my buggy to go straight! I don't know how to fix this, but it seems that the front steering linkage seems to be a toe-out? I don't know the terminology but its just that the front wheels are not 90degrees.

What is the measurement of your steering linkage? I've got it at 63mm each (Or so says my electronic calipers) and it doesn't seem to be right...

Also, have you guys made any changes to the camber in the front/back tunbuckles?

paulmaggsy

09-05-2009, 05:39 AM

Hi All

New video here from an abandoned airfield. Davidstow WWII RAF base

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwYT_LfbPlI&fmt=18

Strange place but really cool for RC cars. Humps and bumps everywhere and strange old buildings.

Excuse the sound issues though. Not sure what happened there.

Also now have black HPI spoiler and front Aluminium C mounts.

Photos below. Just waiting for my 3racing order to arrive for the rest of the hop ups and also a black wheel and tire set. Hopefully will look sweet. Proline wheels were dissapointing so i ain't using those any more. They suck and you have to buy new bearings and that. Don't like the dirt Hawgs either. Settling with Ribbed fronts and beaded rears that come pre glued on the wheels.

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk11/paulmaggs/100_0889.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk11/paulmaggs/100_0887.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk11/paulmaggs/100_0888.jpg

Comments welcome

Vinboi

09-05-2009, 07:55 AM

Nice! I like the colour of yellow in that haha. First thing i realised is that you posted in the wrong thread (I'm pretty sure theres a DT-02 thread out there somewhere) But in all, looking good!

tfedsdb

09-06-2009, 06:57 AM

Banzai Hobby: http://banzaihobby.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&keyword=df-02&search_in_description=1&pto=10000&inc_subcat=0&sort=20a&page=2 has the PE listed $15 US dollars cheaper than the GH.
RCHobbies: http://www.rchobbies.com.au/store/index.php?cPath=26_43&sort=3a&filter_id=16 has it $10 AU dollars cheaper.
Ebay actually has the GH $6 AU dollars cheaper.
Anyway, they're my observations.

timie1

09-06-2009, 05:43 PM

Whoever it was that suggested Banzai Hobby not so long ago should not have, IMO.
The prices are decent, but shipping is a rip off.
I added the 70t spur to the shopping cart and got so far as the final page. The $2 spur cost $18.77 to ship. That is criminal. It doesn't cost anywhere even close to that to send something the size of a spur gear in an envelope internationally, especially from hong kong which has government subsidised shipping.
I refuse to buy from anybody that charges that much for a $2 part. So, don't go getting excited about Banzai's prices, cos it's all a crock. the PE will not be cheaper than anywhere else when it's all said and done.

The only way to buy without paying exorbitant shipping is buy locally through ebay, or go to the shop to physically pick it up. There are some online shops that have decent actual shipping costs, I urge you to buy from them. If the product is a bit more expensive, but shipping is realistic, think about it......should you need a refund for any reason, you get what it actually cost back. All shops give refunds less shipping costs.

Vinboi

09-07-2009, 01:33 AM

I recommend RCMart, the shipping is reasonable and the prices are low.

tfedsdb

09-07-2009, 03:54 AM

I don't know what asiatees shipping is like but their prices are excellent. how ever, they do not have DF-02 parts, bit depressing, I know but you get that.

pks

09-07-2009, 02:05 PM

Hi Guys,

I've been a happy owner of df-02 buggy for nearly half of year now. I've been reading though the posts on this forum and finally I've considered that I might post some useful information :)

My mods to the default configuration are:
- EZRUN 60A speed controler
- KB 3500 kv 550 size motor with 5mm shaft from hobbycity.com (700W ;-)
- Rear shocks from Mad Truck, front shocks combined from both back shocks and front ones
- 2s 7.4V Flightmax 4000 mAh lipo :)
- longer bolts for shocks mounting to prevent towers breaking at mounting ends

Here are the pics:
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/4079/img1379s.th.jpg (http://img171.imageshack.us/i/img1379s.jpg/)http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/4128/img1380b.th.jpg (http://img515.imageshack.us/i/img1380b.jpg/)http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/3364/img1382.th.jpg (http://img180.imageshack.us/i/img1382.jpg/)

The motor there is pretty big, I've bought it as a replacement of hobbywing 13.5T which burned after running it on 3S lipo with 12cm monster tires ;/. The motor took battery with it so I am only left with 2S config, which is suitable for me, since I mostly run on small tracks, which do not require high speeds.

It has lots of torque since I use 16T attack pinion and 70T spur. I am thinking of switching to higher pinions but I have trouble finding bigger ones for 5mm shaft. The ones that fit are designed for T-rex 500. They are a little bit longer than the stock ones, so one has to add additional motor mount to make "tunnel" for the long pinion gear ;-) The motor has more than plenty of power, you have to be very careful not to ruin the gears. If you are planning of using 550 can better set brake force to 50% and punch to lowest possible. Otherwise you will rip gears after one pack.

Since the threats in the bath tube are made of plastic one can easily break them. I suggest using thinner threat bolts from very begining. If you already destroyed threat you can use plastic straps, just put the thinner end in the hole and put in the screw, you should be able to tighten it.

Please take in mind that any untightened screw will let dust and sand in, which in case of gears means trouble. To be extra careful you might want to add silicone to make sure that nothing gets inside the gearbox - that's the red stuff on the photos ;-)

Cheers!

g_man

09-08-2009, 06:54 AM

pks, nice ride! Fairly similar to what I have in the works (argh, u beat me to it!) Check it out:

89750 89751

The motor is a KD36-60-06L 4000kv from hobbycity.com

Spur is a 54T 32p Robinson Racing RRP2154. Pinion is 12T for 5mm shaft. Hopefully it'll cope when I juice this baby up with a 3S pack! :cool:

pks

09-08-2009, 08:42 AM

I like your spur :) How did you come up with mounting that spur there?!?!? I want one too!!! I've ripped last one apart along with the alu pinion ;/

The ratio you are using is basically the same as mine, so I can imagine how fast it will be ;-). The hobbywing 3300kv motor on 3S pack turned this baby into rocket, I am pretty sure this motor will handle more than the car itself :)

You have to watch out not to loose pins in your wheels, after inspection of dead df-02 I've found that one pin went missing. Maybe it was the reason of motor going down? ;-)

BTW: Better stock up some fan on top of this radiator as the motor gets quite hot even after idling for 2 minutes on 2S pack, on 3S it will be burning hot after few minutes.

Web|PLC

09-08-2009, 11:15 AM

Whoever it was that suggested Banzai Hobby not so long ago should not have, IMO.
The prices are decent, but shipping is a rip off.

Flat rate. Buy 200$ worth and shipping is still 19$. And it's fast, too. If you are looking to buy more that a 2$ item, especially hard to find square stuff, it can be worth it !

timie1

09-08-2009, 01:30 PM

BTW: Better stock up some fan on top of this radiator as the motor gets quite hot even after idling for 2 minutes on 2S pack, on 3S it will be burning hot after few minutes.

If you're motor is getting that hot after just 2 minutes then something is seriously wrong, most likely with your gearing, but potentially with the motor itself.
A heatsink only helps a little, it will do nothing without airflow over it, ie running without a body, and it will not make a motor that burns up in 2 minutes idling miraculously become a cool running one.

You need to sort out why it is getting that hot. If you can do that, your whole system will run cooler as it'll be running more efficiently.

What gear ratio did you say you're running and with what size wheels? Does your ESC get hot? or does it stay cool? What about the battery? What run time do you usually get and with what sort of battery? Nimh or lipo? Mah??

It could be that you are undergeared for that motor, that will cause excessive heating in the motor, while everything else stays cool.

pks

09-08-2009, 02:24 PM

I'm running it on lipo Flightmax 4000mah 2S, as stated above. I've did few dry run tests of the motor by just putting it on the floor and applying max throttle. After two minutes motor got about 50C, which is quite hot for me when just idling.

Typical run time is from 15 to 30 minutes depending on the style of driving.

When driving with body on, after about 5 minutes the motor without heatskink and fan gets to the point of 50C.

Hopefully with fan installed the motor is cool all the time, no matter how much throttle I use. In both tests ESC is slightly warm. Battery is cold, it gets slightly warm when it's getting flat (3.4V per cell).

I don't know if that is relevant, but I usually drive on very slippy terrain, so lots of torque gets wasted on just pushing the sand and dust from the wheels. Probably when driving on better terrain run times would be better :)

Timie1, please check 4 posts up, complete setup is there :)

Cheers!

g_man

09-08-2009, 06:52 PM

How did you come up with mounting that spur there?!?!?

Pretty much like this (http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=2402595#post2402595), except there's an additional 1.2mm aluminium spacer between the RRP2154 spur and the HPI Pro4 (#75104) adapter to compensate for the spur webbing not being centred with it's teeth:

89765 89766

edit: I also had to file down the screw heads a little to prevent them from interfering with the chassis.

timie1

09-09-2009, 03:02 AM

PKS, with all due respect, I've owned the DF02 for 6 or 7 years, not half a year. I've torn mine apart and rebuilt it countless times. I've owned RC's since the late 80's. What you've got in your df02 is overkill, as you pretty much said in your post #4283. The DF02 is designed for a 540 size motor, not a 550 (not saying a 550 won't work). The photo you have posted shows small buggy wheels. With your gearing you're running, and the 550 motor with those small wheels, you are probably undergeared. Undergearing a motor, whether it's brushless or brushed, is the same as running a motor full speed without any load. It's not good for it. A motor is happiest when it's got a load on it, and being at it's happiest means cooler temps. Try driving your real car along the road at 100km/h in 1st or 2nd gear. Your engine will be revving it's nuts off to produce the power you're asking of it. It'll get VERY hot, and likely not last long at all. Same thing with undergearing your RC, or running the motor with no load. The motor will be making the car go fast, but it's constantly running at max rpm to generate wheel speed.

If you are having trouble finding a larger pinion with your 5mm shaft in the tamiya metric pitch, then go to the smaller 67t spur, and/or run your 12cm monster tires, which will effectively raise the gearing. Or, probably better yet, sell your 5mm shaft motor and get a 3mm shaft one, one that is designed for a 1/10 car, not a 1/8 car like the 5mm one you're running. The DF02 is very limited with the gearing you can use. Finding a motor that is HAPPY in the gear range that the DF02 can reach is the key to good speed and low temps. If you want to keep to the 3500kv, I suggest the Traxxas Velineon motor. I run it, and so does Gman and a few others on this forum. GREAT motor with a 3mm shaft, 550 can size and very respectable temps even with larger monster wheels.

Just my advice, you don't have to listen to it, but I do know what I am talking about. I've helped many people with their setup, both on this forum and in the physical world (physical rather than real world, because we are all real people).

pks

09-09-2009, 03:33 AM

Timie1, please don't get me wrong, I am open to any advice!

The reason of buying this motor was the fact that the hobbywing 13.5T burned on monster (12cm) wheels when doing 3S. I didn't want to buy anything else that could burn as easily as that one, so I bough 550 to give it a try. I've run 550 on monster wheels, the speed was tremendous, but the wheels were ballooning at high speeds, what made car not steerable, so I sold the wheels and kept using standard buggy ones.

Yesterday I've ordered 20 and 22T 0.6mod pinion for 5mm shaft, probably soon I will buy VXL or equivalent 540 size motor, because 550 motor, as you have observed is too big for this buggy (expectantly when running on buggy wheels).

timie1

09-09-2009, 03:58 AM

PKS, that's good news on the pinion. Where did you find them?

I've got a few motors, a VXL motor, a Mamba max 5700 (540 can) and a Team Powers 4300 (540 can) and also a 2250kv (not sure of the can size, it's 76mm long though ;)) 1/8 motor. Running the DF02, I find the VXL motor the best. It is fast on normal buggy wheels and geared high, yet still cool. Running monster wheels, it's super fast, and still respectable temps, even with gearing too high (my 70 spur is broken so I'm forced to use the 67 spur and OVER gear it). Regardless of it being overgeared for the tires I'm running, it's still happy, although it does get hot, but only around 60C (140F) on a very hot summer day. My point is, the VXL motor is very adaptable. It can take the big wheels and be fast, or the small wheels and still be fast.
No other motor I have could do both. The 4300kv one is fast, but on the large wheels it will struggle. The 5700 is fast, but also on large wheels it'll struggle. the 2250kv one is, well.......I've not tried it in the DF02, it won't physically fit. But I know that using normal 2S, and buggy wheels it'll be slowwwww.

pks

09-09-2009, 04:13 AM

Timie1,

I've bough them from here: http://www.flightboxrc.co.uk/acatalog/PINIONS.html#a1725

Two pinions + shipping costed me 11 pounds :)

You can also buy them from USA (google for ReVCo Pinions), but shipping from there to Poland is a killer (both in price and time). that's why I was restraining myself from buying them at the first place :)

As a new motor I am thinking of buying:

KD36-50-08S 4400kv http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=6669

or a 3200kv version http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6670

Unfortunately there are no motors in between.

timie1

09-09-2009, 04:32 AM

I would tend to avoid ones that you cannot take apart and those KD ones look like you cannot open them up. I could be wrong though. There are plenty of motors in between http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?catname=All+Inrun ner+Motors&idCategory=64&ParentCat=59
Most of them are sensorless, but some are sensored. So be careful what you look at.

Web|PLC

09-11-2009, 09:18 AM

Little update on my Plasma Edge :

Since I'm using it at the cottage (and bashing it rather harshly), I've been braking (the same) parts left and right :

- Alloy front shock tower (never again... it bends and is a b*tch to bend back in shape and its always one of the first things hit in a crash)
- front and rear shocks: either bending the shock shaft, losing lower shock caps or plain braking the shaft... all in all, my alum. shock supplier LOVES me.
- upper rear arms: I've lost the screws holding them in place twice, which results in the dog bones and the shafts falling out...

Anyways, I'm in the process of rebuilding (again lol), and getting ready for brushless...

I started off with:

- ball bearings all around
- alloy main shaft
- alloy front & rear shock towers (front being replaced by the stock plastic one this time around)
- GPM B44 shocks front & back

This time I'll be adding:

- tamiya universals + tamiya cups in front (will get a second set for the rear since the stock shafts are eating away at the rear lower arms depending on how I set up my shocks)

- tamiya turnbuckles: what a pain to put together for someone like me who has no dexterity, but hey, should be worth it... and considering I can't put the rear upper arms back in place since I lost the screws...!

- GPM alloy steering assembly: seems to be worth it.. going in anyways.

- Alloy uprights, hubs & arms: I got them all, front and rear, however I'm now debating putting them in... the additional weight is not tooooo bad, but I'm now hesitant to use so much alloy ... However, I figure using them all with threadlock could make the whole car much more solid. Decisions, decisions ....

I received my Hobbywing 35A BL ESC, now waiting on the 10T motor... That kit was supposed to go in my E-Firestorm roller, but I might just take it for a spin in the DF-02 (with stock wheels)...

If I like the hobbywing BL stuff, I'll probably get a 12T - 13T for my DF02, and use my 4 inch tires....

Anyways, sorry for the long post lol

turbo_rolla

09-11-2009, 05:39 PM

Glad to see someone else is having the same problems as i've had Web|PLC :p i havent bent my alloy shock towers, but have lost the rear one out of where it mounts to the diff housing. Most of my issues have been with the little mounts for my shocks bending the s#!t out of the screws, or popping off. Also had the rear arms come off like yours and lose the dogbone out of it! I've put bigger screws through most of it where i can and it seems to have strengthened it up a bit - i guess stopping it landing on its roof will probably help too :D

what brand shocks have you got? I had some 100mm Yeah racing ones - the shocks themselves arent too bad, but i just keep bending or snapping the screw where it mounts to the shock mount point......Considering just getting some GPM or 3 racing ones and making up those little spacers to mount them a bit higher to give the extra clearance :roll2:

Web|PLC

09-11-2009, 06:18 PM

What brand shocks have you got? I had some 100mm Yeah racing ones - the shocks themselves arent too bad, but i just keep bending or snapping the screw where it mounts to the shock mount point......Considering just getting some GPM or 3 racing ones and making up those little spacers to mount them a bit higher to give the extra clearance :roll2:

I buy the front Associated B44 GPM aluminum shocks, and rear DF-02 GPM alu. shocks (the front B44 are 5mm taller than the front DF-02 shocks). They give a nice ride height and are surprisingly strong. I might buy some Badhorsie shock covers to protect them (I have some on my E-Firestorm - totally worth it).

Update: I just received my Hobbywing 10T BL motor, so I'll be using it in my DF-02 for the weekend.

As for all my alloy parts, I've decided to install the uprights and the c-hubs only, not the front and rear lower arms. A word of advice: installing GPM lower arms is like pulling teeth, so I decided to shelf those and use the stock (very used) ones.

Anyways, off to the cottage to do some bashing! Have a nice weekend guys ;)

Vinboi

09-12-2009, 08:01 AM

Today, I ran my buggy into something (Was going backwards) I ranit up and down the driveway, and realised it wasn't going very straight. Upon a closer inspection, the Shock absorber shaft kinda bent, and locked the damper thing halfway in. I managed to bend it back so it can go up and down again, however it still looks slightly bent. Also, the screw (Uses an allen key) seems to not unscrew anymore.. Seems the hole on the screw is slightly bigger than the allen key size (Trust me, I used the right size, as it works perfectly find on the other shock)... How do I unscrew it now? :(

timie1

09-13-2009, 01:51 AM

Vinboi, can you use some vice grips or pliers and grip the end and pull it while you turn it with the pliers?

pks

09-13-2009, 02:03 PM

Guys,

Where can I find hex 17 adapters that would fit df-02? I have few spare 1:8 wheels and I would like to use them. They seem to fit perfectly, of course with the exception of the small hex :)

Thanks in advance!

JDT

09-14-2009, 10:16 AM

tobee craft has a set of 17 mm adapters for the df 03 which will work on the df 02.

turbo_rolla

09-17-2009, 08:35 AM

new video - nothing heaps exciting, just a bit more footage =0)

Hopefully more up soon if we make it out this weekend! :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7z0vNqucNk

timie1

09-17-2009, 11:16 PM

Those are some sweet jumps there.
It's amazing nothing broke. All these people that say the DF02 sucks, so they replace it with a df03 or other.......well I do believe that no other tamiya buggy could take those sort of jumps and not break anything. When they break their other car and come crying that it broke a million parts, then they may like to eat humble pie and retract what they said about the df02 sucking. :)

What sort of temps do you get with that setup?

turbo_rolla

09-18-2009, 02:44 AM

It SOMETIMES breaks (if i can refer you to a picture a few pages back i took :p), but generally stands up okay. It's only when it lands on its roof that stuff breaks, and mostly just s#!tty screws from the suspension!

Not sure about temps - its cool enough to touch the esc and motor though without any hassle :)

JDT

09-18-2009, 08:04 AM

well any car can break, that was a pretty good wreck there at first in the video, it could easily have broken something, after that I usually just wiggle the wheels back and forth and then gas it, if its broke you ain't gonna hurt it much more lol. This youtube video should be enough to sell 1 million df 02s

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwTMADiC3UE&feature=channel

Web|PLC

09-18-2009, 11:02 AM

Well I do believe that no other tamiya buggy could take those sort of jumps and not break anything.

Agreed. Everything I broke was aftermarket (shocks and alu. tower). The worst thing that happened to the stock parts is losing 2 screws, nothing broke.

I love this buggy, as much as my E-Firestorm!

Oh, and to continue on my last post: I thought setting up the turnbuckles was a pain is the arse... but man, building the Tamiya universals is just an crazy exercise in patience and self-control...!

I think I'm gonna ask my girlfriend for some help, 'cause my shaky unsteady hands are just not working out!

g_man

09-19-2009, 10:29 AM

There is such a thing as a DF02 that's TOO FAST!! ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFx042_f1Fw

edit: special thanks to my lovely wife for filming!

turbo_rolla

09-20-2009, 07:23 AM

That new motor sounds nuts! Cant get over how big it was too! Gonna put my little 5.5t to shame next time!

Did you guys end up getting out for a run today?

pks

09-20-2009, 02:59 PM

I've finally found time to test my new 22T pinion for 5mm shaft, those "Rhino gears" are only few mm longer than original tamiya ones, so they fit gearbox perfectly, there is no need for adding additional spacers for the engine, to make the pinion fit in. That brings us to the new era of 5mm shaft motors for df-02 ;-)

In the 67/22 setup model was about 40% faster, when comparing to the previous 70/16 config. The best thing is that Timie1 was right, the (small) heat issues were no more present. Motor kept cool all the time, as I only was able to keep the throttle at 50-75% to keep the car on the track :)

The funny thing is that the car runtime is nearly the same, but the fun is more, since the speed is about 50 km/h :)

I only wish I took programming card for the EZ Run 60A ESC, as my drag brake force was too low for this setup.

timie1

09-21-2009, 02:15 AM

PKS, you're only getting 50km/h?
With the 3500kv 550 motor I run, on 2S mine is over 76km/h, more realistically pushing 80. G Man is right, there is such a thing as a df02 being too fast. Using that VXL motor mine is too fast - too fast but too much fun to slow it down ;) I'm running 67/19 gearing on 4" wheels.
I would think that you should be getting a lot more speed out of your setup.
What motor are you running again?

pks

09-21-2009, 02:59 AM

Timie1,

My full setup is:
kv3500 on 2S Lipo
86mm buggy wheels
22 attack pinion
67 spur

According to my excel spread sheet (I hope I did it correctly ;-) it should go in between 50-60km/h, which is quite correct when looking at speed g_man measured with his GPS. We can cancel out my gearing with his 3S, because that gives similar RPM to the wheels, the difference is the 500kV in the motor and the fact that his wheels have 40% bigger diameter. Of course top speed is dependent on other variables too, but in rough estimation it should go about 50km/h

I didn't want to put GPS (my mobile phone has it) inside the car to measure the top speed because I was doing tests on off-road and I was afraid I would damage it on first bump. I will do on road tests as soon as I manage to get my real 1:1 car back - now I am limited only to driving near home, due to the problem with the logistics :)

Now I am looking into buying 105mm wheels from himoto/hsp truggy, they look like they have negative offset (the wheel is mounted less deeply, right?) so it should give me bigger wheelbase (about 6cm), so that should improve handling (I hope at least).

Cheers!

//EDIT:
I've seen that some of you are using custom suspension adapters (the aluminium thing with 4 holes :)), do they change the geometry in reasonable way?

I've done few checks and It turns out that in the back, the best possible position of the dampers are the most inner (the closest to the chassis) holes, when using standard shock tower. It seems that when using that position the piston was travelling more than in case when the damper was mounted in the most outer hole (the closest to the wheel), it's quite strange, from the first sight, but it turned out that they shock tower mounts are too close to the chassis, so the angle is too big. If they were just only few cm more wide, then it would be possible to get pretty big piston travel, does any other hookup change that?

The ideal case (IMHO) would be the case when piston travel lenght would be the same as the wheel <-> chassis movement difference, now I get about half of that, what is kinda painful for me ;/

g_man

09-21-2009, 10:22 AM

Did you guys end up getting out for a run today?

Yeah Duck and I rocked up to the city track and found it crawling with people, kiddies, bikes - the works. Duck got told off by a grumpy old geezer for using his car on the track lol. We ditched & went to the Vic Racecourse for a while & hit the city track once again after the hordes got hungry & left. We had a ball. Seriously, we have to hit the city track again - it's wicked for racing as well as bashing!

I also discovered my DF02 has a special ability / party trick :eek:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i1GUQRQcX4
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i1GUQRQcX4)
I ran 2S all day, which is fast but controllable. 3S is scary! :D

pks

09-21-2009, 01:46 PM

I also discovered my DF02 has a special ability / party trick :eek:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i1GUQRQcX4
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i1GUQRQcX4)

Sweet, shake it baby!!! The best I've seen so far, kinda looks like the magic people do with the helis :)

timie1

09-22-2009, 02:31 AM

Hahah that's cool, Gman.

PKS, those adaptors are the ones I designed and made, and gman made a so cool CG diagram for. I use them, and I like them, in particular with normal buggy wheels. With big wheels you don't need them for ride height alone, but the way they change the geometry is nice.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the rear end slaps the ground all the time, correct? If you mount the shock on the inner hole on the arm, you are effectively softening the spring rate at the wheel. Likewise if you move the lower shock position to the outside hole on the arm you harden the spring rate at the wheel. This is how physics work for any buggy/suspension setup. The problem with the df02 the back slaps cos the rear is too soft and/or not enough clearance. To harden it up you'd generally move the shock to the outer hole. Only problem with the df02 is ride height is even worse. Inner hole raises the height, but softens the spring rate. Either scenario you can't fix that chassis slap. My adaptor addresses both issues, you can mount the shock on the outer hole AND increase the ride height. Depending which way round on the arm you mount the adaptor, you get many different options, all of which change the geometry a noticeable amount.

If you are interested in them, I can get some made for you, or you can copy them for yourself. If you run offroad and with small(er) wheels, you will really appreciate them. If you want to make your own, I can send you Gman's diagram of them, if Gman doesn't mind.

Also, about your top speed, I didn't realise you were running offroad when you did that speed test. Run onroad to see what speed you can do, it should be quite a bit more. Traction and smooth surfaces will do wonders to your ACTUAL and not theoretical top speed.

JDT

09-23-2009, 09:37 AM

Yeah Duck and I rocked up to the city track and found it crawling with people, kiddies, bikes - the works. Duck got told off by a grumpy old geezer for using his car on the track lol. We ditched & went to the Vic Racecourse for a while & hit the city track once again after the hordes got hungry & left. We had a ball. Seriously, we have to hit the city track again - it's wicked for racing as well as bashing!

I also discovered my DF02 has a special ability / party trick :eek:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i1GUQRQcX4
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i1GUQRQcX4)
I ran 2S all day, which is fast but controllable. 3S is scary! :D

nice vid, the first time I ever saw a converted 1/8 buggy he showed me this little trick so I use it to show off from time to time, the mashers got a little to much sidewall so its a little scary sometimes but the dirt works are great, if you get to aggressive however you can scratch the heck out of your rims on the cement so be warned lol.

Vinboi

09-23-2009, 10:21 PM

I need some help from you guys, as my buggy STILL isnt going straight (It slowly veers to the right/left but never straight :() I have the steering link as it is on the manual (63mm?) but it looks like it gives a toe-out (Is this meant to happen?) Also, has anyone adjusted the camber on either the front,back or both?

Thanks.

timie1

09-24-2009, 01:18 AM

Vinboi, toe-out CAN be a good thing, for racing, but generally you don't want toe out. The car will tend to wander either left or right erratically. It does make initial turn in very responsive, but harder to keep going straight.
Toe in is the opposite - not too much though. 1 or 2° is about all you should need.

What servo are you running? Have you taken the servo horn off and got everything all centred then put the horn back on? Are you running the right servo horn/servo saver for the brand of servo you've got?

This may sound dumb, but are you sure the trim on your transmitter is centred?

If you've done all that I mentioned, and it's still going crazy, the problem is probably your servo. Providing you have the linkages set up properly and no stone is under the servo saver obstructing movement, the only other thing would have to be the servo itself.

Many servos won't centre well, especially cheap chinese ones. They overshoot steering angles, or they will stay on the steering angle after you've let go of the steering. If the servo is old, it can lose it's accuracy.

So, what servo are you running?

Ignore the 63mm setting in the manual, set yours to whatever is needed to get the wheels dead straight, and both at the same angle. If one wheel is slightly different to the other, it'll pull in that direction.

I've set the camber on mine, both front and rear. To be honest, I didn't notice a huge difference in handling. I got it so I could wear my tires evenly, not all on the inside. It looks a lot better with the adjustable upper arm linkages for the camber, a lot less like a toy. However unfortunately it doesn't do a WHOLE LOT to the handling on the df02. Other buggies is a different story entirely.

JDT

09-24-2009, 09:35 AM

under power the spinning shaft and diffs will give a slight pull to the right, that is normal on a shaft drive car, its not usually bad enough for someone to really notice, check the bearings on whichever side its pulling to, try another set of tires also and see if that helps.

Vinboi

09-25-2009, 09:50 AM

mwilcko

10-02-2009, 12:17 PM

is the df-02 durable? My df-03 breaks way too often. I'm looking for something reliable to install my 8.5t brushless into.

timie1

10-02-2009, 10:25 PM

Yeah the df02 is reliable and durable. There are a FEW areas that need beefing up, but on the whole, I think you'll find it much tougher than a DF03.

mwilcko

10-03-2009, 07:36 AM

Which upgrades should I add to the shopping list?

timie1

10-03-2009, 01:18 PM

If I were you, I'd get the aluminium drive shaft. Don't get the yeah racing one. Any other brand is alright, but some may need a bit of filing to make it fit perfectly. If money is no object, get all Tamiya hopups.
The stock plastic main drive shaft works fine with stock silver can brushed motors, but with brushless it will chatter like crazy.

Get the alloy steering linkages and assembly. The plastic ones work ok, but the alloy will be better.

Get the 67t spur as an extra. You may want it, you may not, but for the few $$ it's great to have the gearing options. Also a full range of metric 48p pinions (tamiya pitch) is a worthwhile investment. I can guarantee that you'll want to experiment with gearing options.

Other than those few things, I can't think of anything that absolutely needs to be upgraded for reliability. There is plenty that should be upgraded to make it perform better, but as far as durability, that should do (or at least that is all I've needed to upgrade - other people probably have a much longer list).

Vinboi

10-03-2009, 11:04 PM

I'd say get a new chassis incase. I broke me a few weeks back was annoyed I had to wait a week till I got a replacement. They are cheap as well!

Web|PLC

10-05-2009, 03:34 PM

Which upgrades should I add to the shopping list?

From personal experience:

- Main drive shaft (the GPM one is very durable)
- Ball bearing set (metal)
- Tamiya universals + cups (for the front wheels, especially when using brushless systems)
- Tamiya turnbuckles (no a great deal of difference in handling, but feels sturdier)
- Tamiya alloy steering set / GPM steering set (the GPM set works fine, using it now)
- Better shocks (ie. GPM alloy shocks)

Cheers!

Web|PLC

10-08-2009, 09:11 AM

Hey guys, since the thread looks quieter than usual, I'll do a little update.

I'm almost fully done upgrading (meaningfully) my DF-02. There was a lot of trial and error, finding out which parts are worth it, etc. Finally, I'm ending up with this :

- Ball raced (ball bearings all around)
- GPM alloy main drive shaft
- GPM steering kit
- GPM C-hubs & knuckles
- GPM alloy battery holder
- GPM shocks (front & rear)
- Tamiya turnbuckles with RPM rod ends and associated ball studs
- Tamiya 67T spur gear

Right now, I'm missing the universals; I have them in my possession, but like I posted earlier, I'm having a tough time assembling them... so I put them aside for now.
I also need to rig my ESCs and batteries with WS Deans connectors (also in my possession).

Right now, the car feels tight and very solid. It can take severe amounts of punishment. It's still riding on stock wheels however, so it's a little low for my taste.

I have 4inch tire/wheels and a 16T robinson racing pinion lying around, so I could experiment with that. But I'm also very tempted by the 3racing DF-03 wheel/tire combo on floating around on ebay...

I also received my eZrun 35A BL ESC / 10T motor combo 2 weeks ago, and tested it in my DF-02: great combination! Running on nimh packs, the ESC stays totally cool, while the engine warms up slightly.

The speed is definitely great, especially coming from a brushed Tamiya Sport Tuned motor.

The eZrun combo was destined to go in my E-Firestorm, but I finally decided to keep it in my DF-02, and get some Castle Creation stuff for the truck. So far, I got a ridiculously priced brand new Sidewinder ESC. Still undecided on the motor though...

I am also going the lipo route: I ordered 2x 5000mah 2S packs, a charger and a lipo bag from Hobbyking, and keeping my fingers crossed that it'll get to me before this long weekend; weather permitting, I could bash for 3 days at the cottage.

Anyhow, I'll really really try to take and post pics on my ride(s) after this Thanksgiving weekend; needless to say, I really like my DF-02 ;)

mwilcko

10-08-2009, 09:27 AM

Will df-03 wheels fit? I have a busted keen hawk laying around.

Web|PLC

10-08-2009, 09:28 AM

Will df-03 wheels fit? I have a busted keen hawk laying around.

I thought they used the same hex system. I could be mistaken.

turbo_rolla

10-09-2009, 04:12 AM

What dampers are all you guys running? I went for the Yeah racing ones but the screws on them have let me down and they're a bit wonky now, so gonna change it up.

Tossing up between GPM and 3racing (cant justify tamiya, and would be pretty bummed if i broke them too :rolleyes:). Should i get ones dedicated to DF02, or something from another model that may be better suited? Currently running just stock control arms, but may make up those little brackets to lift the mounting point.

Thanks

timie1

10-09-2009, 04:53 AM

It amazes me that people still buy Yeah Racing crap and stick to the screws that come with them. The #1 rule with No Racing junk is to throw all the screws away before you install the part and go buy generic screws from your LHS. There is nothing worse.....well that's not altogether true, there are worse things.......then a screw breaking and forever being lodged in a part, so the part is rendered useless. Use proper screws in the part before the no racing breaks.

I've bought both GPM and 3racing things in the past, not shocks. Both brands are acceptable quality. If it came down to shocks, I think I'd get the 3racing ones before GPM. However, if you're at all concerned about breaking them, it may be worth getting the Tamiya TRF ones. They are stronger and better than Chinese ones.

Personally, I don't see the point in buying fancy shocks for the DF02. Having the best shocks in the world on a car with terrible suspension geometry will do diddly squat. My advice is stick to the plastic shocks in the kit, get some light springs for the front and some thick oil (70wt) and use that oil on all corners. The rear springs aren't too bad when combined with 70wt oil, but the front springs......boy oh boy, what was Tamiya thinking?? After sticking to original shocks, make that adaptor bracket I designed. There ya go, all problems solved for about $10.

________________________

Yes DF03 wheels will fit on the DF02.

________________________

WebPLC; That is good news that you're liking the EZrun. So far I still like mine, although I did cook the massive 80A unit I run in my E-Maxx. Don't try calibrating it with a motor wire disconnected (to prevent a runaway car). I've done that with my mamba max, disconnected one of the 3 motor wires, and it doesn't mind, but the Ezrun (maybe the 35A, maybe not) totally hates it. I got a mystical puff of smoke, and by then I realised it was too late. Needless to say I'm not impressed, but I have to say it was my fault.
So just remember, calibrate it with the motor correctly and completely attached or else don't say I didn't warn you.

When you go lipo you'll never, ever, go back to nimh.

I hope the weather holds up for you out there in Ottawa. Here in Calgary it's turned all freezing, -10 and snow. Summer is too short and winter is too long.

The next thing on my list is possibly sell my DF02. I've outgrown it. I have my heart set on eventually getting the new Traxxas Slash 4X4 (http://www.traxxas.com/products/electric/6808_slash4x4/tour/default.html) so I can use it all year round. Plus once you go big, small is for babies :D

Web|PLC

10-09-2009, 09:48 AM

The #1 rule with No Racing junk is to throw all the screws away before you install the part and go buy generic screws from your LHS.

Very true. I usually end up mixing and using 3rd party screws even with the GPM stuff, and I'm also big on 3rd party ball studs and rod ends: I want the best and most secure fit for all my applications.

Yes DF03 wheels will fit on the DF02.

Thank you for confirming!

Don't try calibrating it with a motor wire disconnected (to prevent a runaway car). I've done that with my mamba max, disconnected one of the 3 motor wires, and it doesn't mind, but the Ezrun (maybe the 35A, maybe not) totally hates it. I got a mystical puff of smoke, and by then I realised it was too late. Needless to say I'm not impressed, but I have to say it was my fault.

So just remember, calibrate it with the motor correctly and completely attached or else don't say I didn't warn you.

Thanks for the info!

The next thing on my list is possibly sell my DF02. I've outgrown it. I have my heart set on eventually getting the new Traxxas Slash 4X4 (http://www.traxxas.com/products/electric/6808_slash4x4/tour/default.html) so I can use it all year round. Plus once you go big, small is for babies :D

It's a shame, but I totally understand where you're coming from: when my E-Firestorm (with its massive gladiator rear tires) is next to my DF-02, my buggy looks like a kid's toy... but still so much fun. However, it does have its limitations.

Plus, SCTs (short course trucks) are all the rage right now, and if you like to race, most local tracks have (or will have) SCT classes.

WebPLC

Web|PLC

10-09-2009, 03:59 PM

Sorry for the double post, but I just saw the 4x4 Slash video on Traxxas' site, and I think I'll be adding another RC truck to my collection....

;)

timie1

10-09-2009, 06:39 PM

Yeah, doesn't it look WAYYY better than the normal 2wd slash? Better less toy-like body, but more importantly, 4wd. Looks like a very efficient drivetrain too, not too different to the DF02 layout.

Who wants to buy my DF02? Anybody? ehehehehe. Completely RTR????

mwilcko

10-09-2009, 06:58 PM

My df02 hasn't arrived yet. Anyone know if the df03 main drive shaft is the same size as the df02 one?

timie1

10-10-2009, 02:14 AM

I don't have a DF03, but I can pretty much guarantee that it will not fit. It's a completely different design.

Where did you get your DF02 from?

mwilcko

10-10-2009, 04:51 PM

Got it new on eBay. I am anxiously awaiting it's arrival

Web|PLC

10-14-2009, 11:44 AM

Alright, so last Friday, I was anxiously awaiting the arrival of my lipo care package in preparation for the long weekend... And it didn't make it in time.

To add insult to injury, I actually forgot to pack my Plasma Edge in the truck before leaving for the cottage for the Thanksgiving weekend. Thankfully, I hadn't forgotten my 7 month old son ;)

Now I received my lipo batteries, charger and lipo sack yesterday and I've started soldering WS Deans connectors everywhere (ESC, batteries, charger + charger's power supply).

The plan is to make up for my missed weekend of bashing this coming weekend, with the ungodly power of lipos :D

I can't wait to test it out. I already thought brushless on nimhs was fun...!

mwilcko

10-14-2009, 11:54 AM

Will the lipo vs a nimh pack (charged at 5v) make a big difference in speed?

Web|PLC

10-14-2009, 02:47 PM

Will the lipo vs a nimh pack (charged at 5v) make a big difference in speed?

All things being equal (same 3900kv motor, spur, pinion and tires), here's the theoretical speed difference between batteries types :

Lipo 2S (5v) : 21.51mph
NIMH (7.2v) : 30.98mph
Lipo 2S (7.4v) : 31.84mph
Lipo 2S (8.4v) : 36.14mph
Lipo 3S (11.1v) : 47.76mph

Why a 5v lipo by the way?

timie1

10-14-2009, 05:50 PM

Mwilcko, where did you get your 5V thing from? Lipo is a nominal 7.4V per 2S, or in other words 3.7V per cell.

Webplc, unfortunately, or more FORTUNATELY for those with lipo and those who want to upgrade from nimh to lipo, nimh suffer from huge amounts of voltage loss under load. Typically a GOOD nimh voltage under load is around 1.0 - 1.1V per cell, a VERY GOOD cell may be able to hold it's voltage at 1.2V under load up to about 30 amps. However, most will not. Anyway, a 6 cell nimh will usually drop to 6.6V or less under load, so top speed is less than a theoretical calculator answer. Lipo on the other hand can hold it's voltage much much better under load, so for most of the run you'd be getting at least 3.7V from each cell. This does equate to a much more accurate top speed that theory and calculators give us. Combined with half the weight as well, top speed is much greater than the equivalent nimh pack.

Don't forget, nominal voltage and actual peaked voltage are different things. Lipo will top out at 4.2V per cell. Depending on your setup and load, lipo will run higher than the nominal 3.7v for the first while, then taper off to the nominal before instantly hitting LVC. Nimh top out at about 1.5V per cell, but as soon as a realistic load is applied, that will drop to under the nominal 1.2V. This can happen very quickly, so for most of the run voltage will be less than 7.2V. Make sense?

Mwilcko, if you mean charged at 5V, and not a 5v lipo, then don't. Charge the lipo at the pack voltage. Use a charger meant for lipo and let it decide what voltage to charge the pack. Don't try to charge it at 5V manually.

mwilcko

10-14-2009, 07:05 PM

Typo, meant to say 5 amps, not volts

timie1

10-14-2009, 11:28 PM

Typo, meant to say 5 amps, not volts

That makes a bit more sense :)
Only charge your lipo at 5 amps if it is more than 5000mah.
Anything less than 5000mah and charged at 5 amps and you're asking for trouble. Some newer lipos claim it's safe to charge at 2C rather than the 1C rule I just mentioned, but I would be weary of such a claim.

In the old days of nicad, you could charge a battery at say..1 amp and you'd get good power, then if you charged it at 5 amps you'd have a way better performing battery; the tradeoff being overall lifespan and more heat during charging. The same was true with nimh, but you did have to be more careful, but in essence the same theory applied.
With lipo all that is a moot point. You won't notice any performance increase charging at a higher rate. The only benefit would be quicker charging times. However, as I said, don't charge at more than 1C regardless of the mah capacity.
I always charge mine at slightly less than 1C, so for my 4000mah packs I usually do 3.7amps. With my 3000mah pack 2.7amps. I do like to be careful with my stuff so I err on the side of caution.

Web|PLC

10-15-2009, 09:49 AM

Tim, ever had a lipo fire?

timie1

10-15-2009, 01:25 PM

Tim, ever had a lipo fire?

Are you asking me?

Web|PLC

10-16-2009, 08:37 AM

Are you asking me?

LOL, yup!

But everybody feel free to share your lipo disasters, if one happened to you.

JDT

10-16-2009, 12:11 PM

I have had a couple get damaged and swell, a couple get old and swell but the only fires I have ever had were from hooking them up to about 40 feet of 10 gauge wire and a the battery of a running automobile to make them blow on purpose lol.

94eg

10-16-2009, 06:42 PM

*edit... OOPS!

timie1

10-17-2009, 02:00 AM

Hahaha, I was confused because my name isn't Tim. It's Andrew. I wish I could change my forum name, but that is one option you are forever stuck with. LOL

No I've never had any lipo problems at all - touch wood!! I've never had any problems with my decent nicad, but nimh...............they suck, even the "good" and expensive ones. They are delicate and prone to venting, and self discharge too quickly sitting on the shelf and then they are dead. They never stay in balance, even the matched ones. Time to throw them crap things away. IMO lipo are the best battery ever created, even outside of RC stuff. At the moment in the technological advancement, power to weight, lipo own everything. Reliability, for me at least, is spot on. Lithium ion I thought were reliable and good, but the one for my camera is garbage, and it's a japanese made Canon one, so it should be good. I think it's just over rated junk this lithium ION, not lithium polymer.

Anyway, those are all my opinions.

Web|PLC

10-19-2009, 09:42 AM

Long story short :

- last weekend : 3 day weekend at the cottage and I forget my DF02 at home...

- this weekend : I bring the car, the new lipos, Deans connectors with a soldering iron and some solder to the cottage. Foolishly, I cut off the 1st battery's wires at the same time, effectively bridging the the poles and shorting out the battery. Cell tester confirm 1 cell is completely dead. :rolleyes:

I get on to me second battery: I successfully solder the Deans connector to the battery, but the heatshrink won't fit over the soldered 10gauge wire. I can't find any electric tape at the cottage, and the nearest electronic store is 2hrs away.
:roll2:

Furthermore, the battery won't even fit in my DF-02 without mods...!
:mad:

I still bashed like crazy, after having soldered Deans connectors to my nimh packs... And at the end of the day (luckily), I broke the rear shock tower :rolleyes:

--------------------------------------

All in all though, that was the last straw for this year: I'm taking the buggy apart for cleaning, repair and storage and I'll finish the season with my e-firestorm. I'll transplant my DF-02's 10T Ezrun into to it and run it off my Castle Sidewinder ESC.

Also, I ordered new hard case lipos, 3.5mm and 4mm bullet connectors plus a few EC-5 connectors. I'll most likely solder the 4mm to everything I have (since the lipos I buy come with those connectors, stock), and some EC-5's between my lipo charger and power supply (converted DC charger).

Anyways, that's it for now. I'll wait patiently for my stuff to come in. In the meantime, I have 2 computers to rebuild :)

timie1

10-19-2009, 06:00 PM

Web, that sounds like you had "fun" the last few weekends.
Are you sure that cell tester is working correctly? I've never shorted lipo, but I have accidentally throughout the years shorted nicad and nimh. It has never killed the cell or battery - well certainly not short term, maybe long term it helps to destroy it quickly.

What happens if you put the lipo on the charger and balance charge it? I think if it were me I'd try it, but of course definitely in a lipo sack and somewhere outside if it should happen to catch fire and the lipo sack doesn't contain it.

It's up to you though. At the cost lipos these days and the risk associated with seeing what happens to a potentially killed lipo, you may think replacing it is better.

Also, what lipos did you get that require modification to the DF02?

You don't have to use electrical tape, any tape works fine. In the past, I'd use normal packing tape, or even masking tape once :P I'd stick to plastic now though, but any tape works; especially if it's only temporary.

Without sounding cocky, or snobby, or preachy to you...........are you sure having 4mm bullets on battery/esc/charger and all is a good idea? You've seen how easy it can be to do something without thinking and ruin a battery, it will be just as easy doing it without thinking and quite probably ruining the ESC and/or battery.

Web|PLC

10-19-2009, 09:16 PM

Are you sure that cell tester is working correctly? I've never shorted lipo, but I have accidentally throughout the years shorted nicad and nimh. It has never killed the cell or battery - well certainly not short term, maybe long term it helps to destroy it quickly.

What happens if you put the lipo on the charger and balance charge it? I think if it were me I'd try it, but of course definitely in a lipo sack and somewhere outside if it should happen to catch fire and the lipo sack doesn't contain it.

The thing is, I tried to balance/charge it and not one device sees the pack as a 2S - they all detect 1 cell only. Also, the pack ballooned a little bit but hasn't blown up during charging. I guess I'll just have to safely dispose of it.

Also, what lipos did you get that require modification to the DF02?

They are Turnigy lipos, the cheap ones from Hobbyking. $19.95 a pack for 5,000mah 20C 2S packs. They don't quite fit well with the standard DF-02 battery holders.

Without sounding cocky, or snobby, or preachy to you...........are you sure having 4mm bullets on battery/esc/charger and all is a good idea? You've seen how easy it can be to do something without thinking and ruin a battery, it will be just as easy doing it without thinking and quite probably ruining the ESC and/or battery.

Well, the charger was a DC unit that I converted it to AC by splicing its wires to a power supply. Really ghetto right now, so I need to install connectors :D

The lipos come with 4mm connectors stock, so no work there and as for the Castle Creations Sidewinder ESC, it comes without any connectors so I have to solder something on!

I just hope they indeed are easier to install than Deans ... hated working with those, and the god-damned heat shrink :rolleyes:

Stay tuned for more action ;)

timie1

10-20-2009, 01:27 AM

The lipos come with 4mm connectors stock, so no work there and as for the Castle Creations Sidewinder ESC, it comes without any connectors so I have to solder something on!

I just hope they indeed are easier to install than Deans ... hated working with those, and the god-damned heat shrink :rolleyes:

Stay tuned for more action ;)

Yeah, I'm not saying it's not a good idea soldering plugs to everything, but all the same plugs that can be plugged in with reverse polarity?
The mamba max does not have reverse polarity protection, according to the manual, so I'd be surprised if the Sidewinder does. With both plugs on the battery identical, it could be VERY easy to accidentally hook up the battery the wrong way, and if you do.....PUUUUUFFF!!!

4mm bullet connectors are easy to solder, I should know, in the last week I've soldered 30 of them - (I've converted all my brushless motors to 4mm and my entire stereo setup, not my batteries) I use a pair of pliers with a rubber band around the handles. I put the bullet connector in the teeth of the pliers with the solder/wire side up and the rubber band lightly clamps the connector in there, allowing me to solder very easily the wire onto the plug. It's easier than soldering to a deans, but IMO, that doesn't justify doing it for every connection in your entire system. Having some reverse polarity protection is a must. At the very least, put one male and a female on the battery, or one 4mm and the other a 3.5mm - anything to stop momentary lapses of reasons from shorting something out.

Have you thought about Traxxas plugs? Some people find them a LOT easier to solder than deans because they are bigger, so there is more room to work and more to grip when pulling the battery off the ESC.. Most importantly, they have reverse polarity protection.

turbo_rolla

10-20-2009, 06:04 AM

SO, went out with my mate and his Losi truck on the weekend down at a track near my new house, but wasnt in action for long :( i had a squiz around my chassis the night before and noticed the mounts on the rear diff that the rear hinge pin goes in had come away from the body a bit. Put a bit of glue in there but that didnt last too long when we got to the track. Also had some issues with the shock tower mount on the rear diff, but that was because i drilled it out a bit too much in my effort to make it stronger (by putting bigger screws in) :p

Found a chassis locally so grabbed that, and have a new A-parts bag (second one in 3 months) on the way for the rear shock mount.

Am thinking i'll just run the stock suspension with the little mount things made up for it and see if that makes it a bit stronger. It does take a bit of a beating, but it seems im spending more time repairing it than using it.

Tempted to rip my electronics out of it and get a T4 or Traxxas Rustler instead :roll2:

Web|PLC

10-20-2009, 08:48 AM

Yeah, I'm not saying it's not a good idea soldering plugs to everything, but all the same plugs that can be plugged in with reverse polarity?
The mamba max does not have reverse polarity protection, according to the manual, so I'd be surprised if the Sidewinder does. With both plugs on the battery identical, it could be VERY easy to accidentally hook up the battery the wrong way, and if you do.....PUUUUUFFF!!!

4mm bullet connectors are easy to solder, I should know, in the last week I've soldered 30 of them - (I've converted all my brushless motors to 4mm and my entire stereo setup, not my batteries) I use a pair of pliers with a rubber band around the handles. I put the bullet connector in the teeth of the pliers with the solder/wire side up and the rubber band lightly clamps the connector in there, allowing me to solder very easily the wire onto the plug. It's easier than soldering to a deans, but IMO, that doesn't justify doing it for every connection in your entire system. Having some reverse polarity protection is a must. At the very least, put one male and a female on the battery, or one 4mm and the other a 3.5mm - anything to stop momentary lapses of reasons from shorting something out.

Have you thought about Traxxas plugs? Some people find them a LOT easier to solder than deans because they are bigger, so there is more room to work and more to grip when pulling the battery off the ESC.. Most importantly, they have reverse polarity protection.

Timie, I made a mistake... I didn't but bullet connectors, I bought these in 3.5mm (http://hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9284) and 4mm (http://hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9283) and a few of these (http://hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9194)to see what they look like.

I don't know why I said bullet connectors... I'm very absent minded as of late :rolleyes:

Anyways, they are all reverse polarity protected ;)

Web|PLC

10-20-2009, 10:20 PM

It does take a bit of a beating, but it seems im spending more time repairing it than using it.

Been there...

Tempted to rip my electronics out of it and get a T4 or Traxxas Rustler instead :roll2:

... done that :p

turbo_rolla

10-21-2009, 02:25 AM

What did you end up getting and how did it go? No point doing it if im just gonna break another one :D

will get rid of the cheap yeah racing shocks as they seem to have started all the problems. Will give it a couple more outings and if it holds up i'll keep it cause when it runs well and is jumping without breaking its good! ;)

timie1

10-21-2009, 04:17 AM

Turbo rolla, - there are certainly better cars out there than the DF02. However, if you expect to get something else because the DF02 is breaking all the time then I believe you'll be wasting your money and time especially if you stick to 1/10. A T4 is leaps and bounds over a DF02, but it's built for a completely different purpose. If you race, the T4 will serve you perfectly. If you bash, and by bash I mean thrash-bash, then you'll regret making the move. Trust me, I have a B4 (same as T4 but with smaller tires) and a few minor differences. I love my B4, it handles brushless better than the DF02 and in nearly every respect it's gobs better, but as far as having a prang or thrash bash (which most people here seem to give the impression that they do) and driving away from it? - you'd be better with the DF02.

Forgetful duck is a prime example IMO. I'm not bashing him, but he had a DF02, thrashed the hell out of it, and it is looking worse for wear, but he's still got it and as far as I'm aware, it still works.
He bought a DF03. It was the bees knees for a few weeks, then everything went wrong and starting breaking. It just doesn't take the beating that the DF02 does. After about a month, he gave up on it then bought a DB01. He's loving that so far. However, from what I can tell, it's mainly used onroad - so it's not really a fair comparison.
If you're reading this, Forgetful duck, don't think that I'm bashing YOU. Just trying to prove a point and help others.

IMO, if you want something that will take a beating, you need to go bigger. Get a 1/8 nitro car and convert it to electric, or a monster truck like an emaxx or Savage. Here's a vid (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5iDDRbeCp4) that was posted in the Traxxas forum of emaxxes and a few other vehicles. Look at the beating they take and drive away from. They may cost more to buy, but the improved strength is worth it if you're little toy DF02 is breaking all the time. I've got an emaxx, exactly like the one in that vid. I love that. I've not broken one thing on it yet. I don't drive like those in the video mind you, but considering I've got it going 75km/h and it weighs 3 times the df02, and it rolls quite easily, and it has been in freak accidents and jumping into trees, nothing has broken. Once you go big, small is for babies, and it's true. Bigger is better, it goes anywhere, is just as fast, handles like a real 1:1 vehicle, and if you're after attention from nosey neighbours and kids in the area and dogs on a leash, the bigger vehicles are way better.

turbo_rolla

10-21-2009, 05:37 AM

Yeah, that was my concern about going to something else. I definitely do thrash bash mine - mostly from jumps - around the roads or flats it has an easy life, but you have to see if it came make the jumps at the bike track :p Will stick with it and see how it goes with the cheap aftermarket stuff out of it! Thanks for the info! Like you said, if anything, 1/8 is the way to go if changing up now :)

Web|PLC

10-21-2009, 09:03 AM

What did you end up getting and how did it go? No point doing it if im just gonna break another one :D

I bought an HPI E-Firestorm (roller), and its great (and indestructible). I still bash my DF-02 (as you can see from my latest posts) though. I like having and driving both, since they are both fun and cater to different environments.

will get rid of the cheap yeah racing shocks as they seem to have started all the problems. Will give it a couple more outings and if it holds up i'll keep it cause when it runs well and is jumping without breaking its good! ;)

Throw those Yeah Racing shocks in a trash can, get some GPMs and definitely keep your DF-02. It's a great little buggy!

Plus, spare parts are pretty easy to come by (and cheap).

mwilcko

10-21-2009, 01:26 PM

Just got my Plasma Edge and was curious about recommendations for shock setup? I was able to get the Tamiya soft/hard springs for $8.. which should I use in the front and back? Also, any recommendations on shock oil to use with these springs? Any other suggestions for the shocks?

Matt
rcnewbie.com (http://www.rcnewbie.com)

timie1

10-21-2009, 02:26 PM

Matt, use the soft springs on the front and use a heavier oil in the shocks on all 4 corners. Try the different springs on the rear, but I don't mind the stock ones on the rear with heavier oil.

Any other suggestions for shocks? Hahah, where does on begin with the DF02??
Get decent shocks!!!!! Make that adaptor from a few pages back.

mwilcko

10-21-2009, 07:47 PM

Plasma Edge arrived today.. and guess what? The damper oil leaked out everywhere! what a mess... decals have appeared to survive but what a pain.

Web|PLC

10-21-2009, 09:17 PM

Took some pics post-bashing...

Will take more, especially next to my E-Firestorm.

To follow ;)

timie1

10-22-2009, 12:48 AM

WOW!!! You manage to run your car without an esc!! I wouldn't mind knowing how you do that, it'd save a few bucks :p

Using a rear wing really gives a completely different (much improved) driving experience. It adds a lot of rear downforce and makes the car stick a lot more.

turbo_rolla

10-22-2009, 02:06 AM

I
Throw those Yeah Racing shocks in a trash can, get some GPMs and definitely keep your DF-02. It's a great little buggy!

Plus, spare parts are pretty easy to come by (and cheap).
Have been considering the GPM's but not sure if they'd suffer the same fete as the other ones? Will hopefully get it all pulled out of the other one and in the new chassis this weekend :D

Web|PLC

10-22-2009, 09:30 AM

WOW!!! You manage to run your car without an esc!! I wouldn't mind knowing how you do that, it'd save a few bucks :p

Funny guy ;)

I removed it to clean it, the velcro underneath is always packed with dirt...

It's only a 35A erun ESC, nothing much to look at anyways!

Edit: I should install a wing... the reason I never did is that when I got the buggy, the kit was severely damaged from shipping, and the wing was bent and ripped...

Lockheed-21

10-26-2009, 06:25 PM

Hello, I am building Tamiya DF-02 Rising storm as my 1st RC car project.

I wanted to replace plastic Propeller Shaft (part E1) with TT-01 Aluminium Propeller Shaft Tamiya item 53620, but it's just about 1mm longer then plastic shaft and thus does not fit.

If I press it into position by a little force, that is preventing front and rear gear assembly to turn smoothly as they should. Any idea what to do?

Also, I am going to replace all plastic bearings with ball bearings.
I have to choose between Tamiya ball bearings set (expensive) and those available at half a price on eBay (YEAH and similar ... all from HK). Is there significant difference in quality between Tamiya ball bearings and YEAH and other 3rd party ball bearrings? Your 1st hand experience? Thanks for help!

Zac

JDT

10-27-2009, 09:32 AM

the 53620 is the correct one, did you put a little assembly grease on it? you should not have any problems, I would bet you have a little plastic flashing inside the propellor joint shafts that will wear right off once you get to running, you can upgrade these to aluminum or hardened steel for under $10 US. I have been using the tamiya shafts for a couple years in df 02s.

If you are in the US your local hobby shop probably has duratrax bearings they are cheaper than the tamiya and better than most asian brands.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=5X11+

The tamiya metal shielded are very good, you need to step to a high performance bearing to do better, I like team blue stars bearings, they seem to be a balance between high performance, good sealing while being cost effective.

http://www.teambluestar.com/

you only need the one size to upgrade the bushings so a 10 pack is your best bet

Lockheed-21

10-27-2009, 04:40 PM

the 53620 is the correct one

Thanks for suggestions.

53620 Aluminum shaft is almost 1mm longer then plastic shaft I got in DF-02 kit. That makes a problem.
Probably I could make 53620 fit by making grooves a bit deeper (about 0,5mm) in parts E2 and E3 (propellor joint shafts) where 53620 will be attached (inserted)?

I am surprised that 53620 aluminum shaft is not officially recommended as hope-up part for DF-02. In fact no metal shaft is officially listed as DF-02 hope-up (tuning) part?!

I am from Europe, Croatia, so duratrax bearings are not available locally.

Do you have some experience with YEAH tuning parts for RC Tamiya models? Some other suggestions of fair quality tuning part brands for Tamiya?

JDT

10-28-2009, 09:41 AM

I have never bought yeah bearings, I have had there aluminum parts and other than the front stock tower needing the spacer bushings drilled clear through and a bolt installed I haven't had any real problems. I would however stay away from the cheapo shocks from gpm and yeah.

Web|PLC

10-29-2009, 09:19 AM

I would however stay away from the cheapo shocks from gpm and yeah.

My buggy is GPM head to toe, and I have had 0 problems with those parts.

g_man

10-30-2009, 11:50 PM

... (forgetful_duck) gave up on it then bought a DB01. He's loving that so far. However, from what I can tell, it's mainly used onroad - so it's not really a fair comparison.

IMO I think he loves it too much to get it dirty ;) The DB01 feels and looks stronger (instead of ABS, it's made of some kind of composite material), and the ball diffs are tougher than those in the DF03. I was going to get a DB01, but only after I see Duck put his through hell & live (and as far as I know he still babies it).

timie1

10-31-2009, 11:17 PM

Gman, I keep trying to convince Forgetful duck to buy something other than a Tamiya. I don't think I'll convince him anytime soon, so I'm gonna try on you ;)
Get an Associated B44 or something.

The ABS on the cheap tamiya models is cheap and nasty, and it's terrible for stripping the thread for screws. The nylon blend in his db01 and all associated cars is vastly superior. I don't know about the cost of replacement parts in aussie, but when everyone on this board talks about replacing XYZ on their DF02 (or any other "cheaper" tamiya cars) and getting hopups, by the time you've spent hundreds more to replace things, and shocks is a prime example, you would have been better off just getting a non-tamiya car which doesn't need all them things replaced. Associated cars have wonderful shocks, equal to TRF, out of the box. A good Associated car in kit form, or even RTR, only costs maybe $100 more than a tamiya kit, and most things are excellent including the plastics, but more importantly, it's DESIGNED correctly. When or if you upgrade, you are upgrading an already decent design. Another prime example is a slipper clutch. Most tamiya cars have it as an option which is anything but cheap. Associated cars come with the industries' best slipper. So, the shocks and slipper, you're already saving yourself the cost of upgrades for a tamiya.

Anyhow, I would recommend you get an Associated B44 or even an HPI car. Stay away from Losi, all their new stuff is virtually rubbish. Traxxas is entry level and only ever RTR, but even still, the overall design of traxxas things is generally better than cheaper tamiya things. When I say design, I mean suspension geometry, tuneability, aftermarket support (in north america), some things in some of the traxxas things make me think a kindergarten kid scribbled it and traxxas made it, but on the whole, their things are durable as heck, and lotsa fun and tunable like a proper racing chassis - as much as I'd like to say the same about the DF02, I would be lying to say that it's tunable.

I don't want hate messages directed at me for dissing tamiya. I'm not dissing Tamiya at all. I grew up with tamiya. My heart will always belong in part to Tamiya. I love the quality of tamiya things. Their models just "work" and things just fit. But I wish Tamiya would up their game and stop tricking people into thinking they are buying a good car. Yes it's good, but you need to spend mega hundreds in aftermarket to make it competitive. The truly competitive cars are cheaper in the long run, and better. Just .02 worth!!!

g_man

11-01-2009, 06:24 AM

Yeah Andrew at this stage my next car is most likely going to be a Traxxas 4x4 Slash, which I think you mentioned on this forum a while back.

I love my truck tyres (on my DF02), and to me it would be wrong to get a pedigree racer like a B44 and pimp it like that, massively altering the dynamics and handling. Besides, I still don't like open spurs.

The 4x4 Slash, as Duck pointed out, is very similar to what I've done with my DF02, though better quality & hopefully a lot stronger. Also, as you say it's more tunable.

Just as important is that Traxxas stuff is fairly easily and cheaply available to Aussies.

timie1

11-01-2009, 11:55 PM

Yeah Gman, the 4x4 slash should be good. If it's as robust as the 2wd slash then I'd say it's probably one of the most durable cars out there. Of course, everything has it's breaking points and those points are exposed depending on how they are driven. What the DF02 may walk away from, a Slash may break, and vice versa.

Hong always lead me to believe that Tamiya were the only cars you could easily get parts for out there in Oz. Maybe he was misinformed. I remember that when I lived in NZ, I'm sure Associated and Traxxas were relatively easy to get parts for. If it is that way in New Zealand, surely it's even easier in Aussie.

Web|PLC

11-03-2009, 12:36 PM

Guys, I'd like to get a new body for my DF-02, but I don't want to buy another PlasmaEdge/GravelHound or Rising Storm body.

I do, however, want to keep the buggy look.

Any chances some JConcepts bodies for B44 or other fit the DF-02 (with minimal mods)?

I'd really like to change my buggy's look.

Please advise!

timie1

11-04-2009, 01:00 AM

I know of no buggy bodies that will fit. That's not to say some obscure bodies won't fit. Maybe some chinese bodies may fit? I CAN however confirm that a B4 body will not fit.

The thing is, as far as I'm aware most other bodies are very low and sleek. Unfortunately the DF02 chassis is not, so you'd really need a body with high side pods.

Just out of curiousity, why don't you want another Plasma edge/Gravel hound or Rising storm body? If it's purely based on looks, you'd be amazed at how much JUST the paintjob and decals can make any body look different.

JDT

11-04-2009, 08:05 AM

A buddy of mine had a j concepts body for a bandit on his df 02 for a while, check it out

Web|PLC

11-04-2009, 08:28 AM

Lockheed-21

11-08-2009, 11:33 AM

I just finished my DF-02 Rising Storm.
Problem is that servo arm is hitting into body shell (right inner side of course) when servo arm is in full right position. As I followed instructions an everything is done properly (as much as I can say), I am not sure what to do to solve that problem. Did I make some mistake, or is that the way it is supposed to be?

Tamiya is suggesting to apply aluminum sticker inside body shell, right there where servo arm is bumping into shell when if full right position. ??? Please, help. :confused:

timie1

11-11-2009, 03:20 AM

Lockheed......I'm pretty sure that is one of the problems with the DF02. I don't have a rising storm body, but with the Gravel Hound body it JUST touches the body, and I believe the Gravel hound body does have more room under it than the rising storm. I don't think there is anything you can do to fix it. Just put the tape on, and raise the body as much as you can so it doesn't rub, but also keeping in mind you don't want it to look ridiculous with the body way up there.
When painting the body, make sure you use the correct lexan paint so it doesn't flake off in 5 minutes. A tip to make the paint adhere is to scuff the part of the body that will be rubbed with 220 grit sandpaper (wet). Take the shine off the INSIDE with the sandpaper. You won't see any scuff marks from the outside once it's painted so worry not. It really does help the paint to stick, trust me.

Lockheed-21

11-11-2009, 06:31 AM

timie1 ... thanks for info. Is it needed to scaff the whole body that way to prepare it for painting job?
I am using Tamiya lexan paints, should work fine.

timie1

11-12-2009, 04:20 AM

No it's not needed to scuff the whole body. Just bits that excessively rub. Whatever you do, do not scuff the windows if you plan to keep them clear.
I scuff the wing because it will chip off that. If you paint the underside of the wing, ie the side of the wing that points to the ground, then scuffing is a good idea. If, like some others, you paint the side of the wing that points to the sky, then don't scuff it. Painting the sky side will be the best for not chipping, but IMO it looks so amateurish, so I would recommend you paint the ground side and scuff the wing.

BTW, that tamiya paint will be good. Just do thin coats so it doesn't run, and make sure you do it indoors if it's cold outside. Whatever you do don't try painting in the cold, you'll ruin the paint big time and it's a mission getting it off the body. Doable, but a mission.

If you are masking bits off, don't rely on masking tape unless you've got loads of practice with the stuff. I like to use electrical insulating tape. Sticks better and it won't let paint bleed under it, and it's more waterproof/paint proof. Mask the bits you want, then do a really light few coats. Let it dry 5 minutes between each coat. Once you have 1 or 2 coats on, then you can do some heavier coats, but not too heavy so it runs. Keep the can moving and change directions of the painting with the can outside of the body. You will get runs if you hold the can in one place too long. As soon as you have the final coat of paint on and you're happy with the colour density, take all masking tape and window masking stickers (if you used them) off. DO NOT LET THE PAINT DRY FOR ANY LONGER THAN ABOUT 20 MINUTES WITH MASKING TAPE STILL ON. When you eventually get round to taking the tape off, you'll take paint off with it. That is annoying to say the least.
Make sure the last thing you do, before applying decals, is to take the overspray film off the sky side of the body.

If you follow those instructions, you will get a body you'll be proud of. It starts getting difficult when you want to airbrush or use multiple cans to achieve a certain look. Keep it simple IMO and it looks better anyway. A nice solid colour, or even white. I made a mistake of painting mine black. It sounds like a great idea, but at night the damn thing is invisible, ahahaha.

Lockheed-21

11-13-2009, 03:50 PM

timie1 ... you are of a such a great help, many thanks again. I will remember very well all your advices and put them to use for sure, and will let you know about results I got.

As I would like to drive my DF-02 on-road as well, and spiked tires would get worn out very quickly on that kind of hard surface, could you, please, suggest me some tires (2-3 brands and sizes) I could put on original DF-02 wheels? Or I would need a different wheels as well for on-road driving?

Btw. today I gave my Rising Storm a test drive and I am very pleased, even with stock 540 motor it runs decently fast, and I enjoyed it a lot. For my 1st off-road RC it's more then I have expected right from the box.

Along it I finished Wild Willy 2 and gave it a test drive too, much different handling but just as much pleasure and joy I got from WW2. Those two little RC devils attracted a dozen of kids and three dogs in no time, while I was driving near a local school. :)

timie1

11-14-2009, 02:46 AM

Yeah that's the curse of RC, attracting unwanted attention. I usually seem to attract know-it-all little bratty boys who ask about 100 times "can I have a drive", "Can I race it", and of course everybody who doesn't have an RC of their own always, without fail, asks "how much does it cost?" even the older people. It get's tiring doesn't it!!! The best thing is getting the attention of dogs. When they are on leash they do their best to break free, which is fun to watch especially when the owner is some little petite woman who can't contain a big powerful dog jumping around. When they aren't on a leash then the dogs try to chase the car, that is loads of fun. They can't keep up with mine so I know I can get away from them if they got too close and too hungry. Dog's are great fun!!

The stock DF02 wheels aren't technically 2.2" rims, however you can glue normal 2.2" tires on the stock wheels and they work fine.

For onroad use there really isn't much to choose from.

Traxxas have these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRLN9&P=7 for the rear and for the front http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRLP0&P=7
They are ok. Average lifespan. Below average grip for 2wd buggies, but for 4wd it might be adequate. Strictly onroad. Tires made in Taiwan.

Proline have these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU13&P=7 for the rear, and for the front http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDU14&P=7
They are good. Better than average lifespan. Excellent grip. Can be used in light offroad, and onroad they make a great allrounder. Not BRILLIANT offroad, but they'll do for mucking around. Made in USA.

Based on the prices that Towerhobbies has them for, there really is no reason at all why you'd buy the Traxxas tires. They are 50% more expensive and in nearly every way they are inferior. They are SUperior in that they do look better, but that's where their superiority ends.

I think some Hong Kong shops have some chinese tires that will work, but I'd avoid them. Like most everything else from there it'll be junk. IMO the proline ones are the only ones to get for road driving. Or of course you could just put some touring car wheels on and drive around with any number of tire options, but ground clearance will be bad and this is a problem with the DF02 chassis slapping. You may think that if you have TC and drive them onroad with 5mm of clearance, that how bad can the df02 be, right? Well, my TA03r and TA05 both had less clearance than the DF02, yet on normal roads, the df02 would slap more often than the TA05 in particular. The suspension geometry is that bad as it is out of the box.

You could also just use your spike tires on road and turn them into slicks and keep driving with them. That's what I'm doing at the moment on my DF02. 4WD compensates for any lack of real grip. On my 2wd vehicle driving around on the road with worn out tires as slicks is just crazy. 4WD is great that way!!!!:D

Lockheed-21

11-14-2009, 06:27 PM

Thank you again for your time and kind help.

And how about LOSI tires? Quality?

http://www.losi.com/Tires/

Which (if any) LOSI would fit to Tamiya off-road wheels?

timie1

11-15-2009, 01:21 PM

I've never owned any Losi tires, but from what I've heard they are very good quality. They are all for offroad though, so I doubt they'd last very long at all on road, not to mention they probably aren't too good on road.

Any standard 2.2" buggy tires will fit the tamiya wheels, doesn't matter of brand as long as they are 2.2". Just make sure you glue the tires to the rim.

chipper17

11-25-2009, 04:25 PM

Web|PLC

11-26-2009, 07:32 PM

Noob with a question...

I just bought the rising storm, and I'm assuming I have a real simple question. I am hooking up the Sidewinder ESC to the receiver. There are 3 inputs on the receiver, labeled B, 1 and 2. Can anyone give me a simple explanation as to what this means? Also on the Sidewinder ESC there is only 1 cable to plug in to the receiver and the B and 2 inputs are open. Which one does it go in?

I'm sure this is real novice stuff I'm asking, but thanks in advance for any help.

You are forgetting the steering servo.

ESC plugs into one socket, and the servo in the other. Refer to your receiver's manual for the correct order (or power everything up to see if you're connected ok).

The socket labeled B is usually for for the BEC, if applicable.

timie1

11-27-2009, 11:47 AM

The receiver has 3 slots as you say, Ch1 is steering, plug your servo into that.
Ch2 is the ESC.
B is battery, which in the old school days when you ran a separate battery pack to power the receiver and servos this is the slot you plugged in the battery. Nitro guys have to still use the battery pack, but that's because they are stuck in the wop wops. For your setup, ignore the B slot; the ESC will power the receiver through the Ch2 wires, that's the whole point of having a BEC built into the ESC. BEC means Battery Eliminator Circuitry.

Do not just plug everything up into any old slot and see what happens, that's a sure fire way to fry something.

Ch 1 - steering servo
Ch 2 - ESC
B - ignore

Lockheed-21

12-01-2009, 07:11 AM

Please, I need advice.
Is it possible to fit the following motors into Tamiya DF-02 and TT-01 chassis:

- VXL Traxxas Velineon 3500 Brushless Motor
- SC10 Associated Reedy Radon 17T Motor

Thanks for help.

Steve at Danfor

12-01-2009, 07:23 AM

Web|PLC

12-01-2009, 10:53 AM

timie1

12-02-2009, 03:28 AM

I had a 3500 VXL Motor in mine and it flew - Now I gotta sell it - I still have the motor if you want to buy it.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330382008441&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

Steve, you're selling it?
Why? I mean I read your reasons in the ebay listing, but really, is that the real reason?

That's sad. Now I'm sad. Maybe I should sell mine too.

One question, how on earth do you get that sent within Canada for $10?? I mailed a small packet to Ontario last week and it was only a book of 100 pages, and that was $11. The package only JUST didn't fit through their guage thing. It was no more than 1" thick. I'm confused.

Scottie

12-02-2009, 07:37 PM

Anyone know if I can stick a Brushless and 3 cell lipo in a B4 Factory Team kit, whould it hold up ok? I stuck them in my DF-03 and it melted the rear diff gear.

timie1

12-03-2009, 03:03 PM

Scottie

12-03-2009, 04:47 PM

hey Timmie come on MSN for a sec. I softmodded my Wii and got caught downloading games for it and got a email, I want to see if you know what they are going to do to me.

JDT

12-04-2009, 11:31 AM

Hi Scott,

Yeah man, the 3 cell lipo holds up fine in my B4. The only thing I have trouble with is the bloody MIP CVD's on the rear wheels. But I've put the dogbones back in and they are better anyway. Less to go wrong with a solid dogbone than there is on a CVD joint with 3 or 4 moving parts and set screws holding it all together. On the 4300kv motor 3 cell lipo is a perfect match, PLLLLLLLLLLLLLENTY of speed and power. With my 5700kv mamba motor on 3S lipo and it's just seriously insane. The good thing is the B4 gearbox can take the power, it's just I can't, it's too fast. My estimate with the 3S lipo on the 4300kv motor is about 90 km/h with standard gearing. With the 5700, jeeeeeeeez, I hate to guess, probably 100 is the SLOWEST I can gear it. It's crazy fast. With standard B4 gearing it's probably pulling 110 or more. In a 2wd buggy that weighs just over 1.3kg, it's mental fast.

lol the mamba 5700 and 3s was the end of my t3/t4 hybrid, doing speed runs up and down the street, one bump and to my amazement it went right up the curb in a sweet jump...then there was the matter of the fire hydrant, blew the car up, like a bomb, dozens if not hundreds of pieces all over my neighbors lawn, pretty much salvaged the tires, lundsford ti turnbuckles, one cvd(the other was no where to be found lol) and threw the rest in the trash so if you plan on running that fast I suggest big open places or any accidents may be fatal.

timie1

12-05-2009, 03:33 AM

JDT: LOL, yeah tell me about it. That's gotta hurt when you see that sort of savagery for RC cars. It's like when I see a real 1:1 car written off, I get a sick feeling in my stomach, it's so sad. I know it's only metal and plastic, but still, it's sad.
I don't run the 5700 motor in the B4 and on 3S. It's fun for a while, but that novelty wears off and it's time to make it a realistic speed. Even on the 4300 motor, everybody comments how amazingly fast it is and the wow factor is still there, but at least it's realistic. I put the VXL 3500 motor in the B4 and 3S - that is the best IMO. Using gearing, any speed is attainable, slow and proper, or fast and mental. It's got enough power to rip the tires from the rims, and I did a pretty damn perfect glue job on them.

Scottie

12-09-2009, 11:57 AM

If any wants to buy a Df-02 gravel hound and DF-03 Avenbte MK2 I Have both the DF-03 is just missing the REar diff gear because I Melted it off with a 3 cell lipo and those little dif balls I think a couple are missing. the DF -02 is in pretty rough shape but has a couple rear shock towers and I think 3 front ones stock, it worked last time I Had it out maybe missing those little metal things that turn the wheels little tube things. also when I was using it last it was pulling to the right when I Hit the gas abit, have the big 4 inch Dirt Hawg tire on it.

timie1

12-09-2009, 01:38 PM

Scott, you should post them for sale in the for sale thread. You'll probably get more interest there.

Scottie

12-09-2009, 02:21 PM

Scott, you should post them for sale in the for sale thread. You'll probably get more interest there.

What should I ask for them both?

Thanks.

Scottie

12-09-2009, 02:22 PM

I was thinking of selling them on Ebay, never sold anything on there though.

timie1

12-09-2009, 07:15 PM

Well I haven't seen your DF03 so I'm not really sure. Based on the condition of the df02, as a roller, ummm maybe you might get CAD$40 - 50 for it?? I dunno, I've never sold a df02 though. Steve from this forum sold his one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330382008441&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT and it looks alright condition wise.

I would start on this forum first, then try ebay if they don't sell here. Ebay will get you with all their fees. Take lots of photos of them both and post them here.

rc84

01-12-2010, 08:09 PM

timie1

01-15-2010, 04:15 PM

i got a stork out of the box gh i have run it bout 30mins and the moter gets redhot and then it gots fored 4 a sce then stops as if the battreys fat its bein v cold when im running it bout 2dc or colder :)
and how long sould a 1800 mah battreys last?

Is this what you meant to say?

I have a stock out of the box gravel hound. I have run it about 30 minutes and the motor gets red hot and then it goes forward for a second then stops as if the battery is fat????? It's been very cold when I've been running it, about 2°C or colder. How long should an 1800mah battery last?

If that is what you meant to say then I'm still confused. What sort of battery are you running? Nimh, nicd, or lipo? If the battery is puffed (fat), and it's lipo, then you need to stop using the battery immediately or you'll severely risk blowing it up. If it's puffed up, you've ruined the battery. Discharge it in a bucket of sand outdoors and take it to a battery recycling place.

The motor getting red hot I feel is a bit of an exaggeration. If it's getting hot like you say, then what is the ESC doing? Is it getting hot too? If it is, then the symptoms you are describing is thermal protection built into the ESC. If you turn it off, wait for it to cool down, at least 5 minutes, then turn it back on the car should work again. However, that shouldn't happen on a stock car.

Answer my question, in english please, and then I'll see what else could be your problem.

tfedsdb

01-15-2010, 09:23 PM

I think he means 'flat'.

timie1

01-17-2010, 05:39 PM

Hmmm, yeah probably now that you mention it :)

Well he hasn't responded so he musn't have THAT much of a problem.

rc84

01-18-2010, 12:59 PM

im usein ni-mh batery pack i did that and still dose the same think

rc84

01-18-2010, 01:23 PM

yes the ESC gets hot to but not as hot as the moter the moter its hot a lot ant it sells a bit to when its runing too

timie1

01-18-2010, 05:14 PM

Yeah well I'd expect the motor to smell if it's getting that hot.
If as you say, it's completely stock, then you have some binding somewhere on it which is causing drag and putting too much stress on the motor. Does the car roll easily on flat level ground? There should be very little resistance if you give it a light push. If it doesn't roll easily and you're using a DEAD STOCK car, then that is your problem.

The battery is very likely complete crap too. An 1800mah nimh is either extremely old, and/or complete junk. It would do a whole lot better if you got a decent nimh, at least 3300mah, or some nicad ones if you want to keep it around the 1800mah. There are good 1400 -1800mah nicad that will be fine in bone stock cars. You need to know what you're buying though, just don't buy any old nicad or nimh. The brand is very important.

However, I doubt your motor and ESC overheating issues are due to your battery. A crap battery will overheat the battery only, not the motor.

RatsacK

02-13-2010, 10:18 AM

Well, instead of reading 177 pages of this thread, I thought I'd just ask. I know it's probably already been asked but anyway... Is there any other alternative buggy bodies to the stock one? Or, is there a place that'll sell stock bodies for the DF02 cheap? :p
Stock is fairly expensive here and only 1 or 2 places have it.

Thanks in advance!

Scottie

04-12-2010, 03:27 PM

yes the ESC gets hot to but not as hot as the moter the moter its hot a lot ant it sells a bit to when its runing too

You spell as good as I do.

I sold my Df-02 and Df-03 For $50 gave him a couple motors a few pinions for them 2 ****** Radios a Wall Charger and A set of new crystals Thd Df-03 was in good shape but needed a New rear Dif Gear and the little metal balls that go in it, The DF_02 was really beat up but had a bunch od spares with it.

And 2 ****** Batteirs too.

paulmaggsy

04-22-2010, 09:03 AM

HI EVERYONE

Just wanted to let everyone know that i will be unveiling the new Tamiya Sandviper theme and Body shell.

So far i had it set up as the stock car with Camel yellow shell and Tamiya stickers when first bought.

I have since then done a White JConcepts shell and also a Black Tamiya shell. (READ FROM START OF THE FOLLOWING THREAD FOR IMAGES AND VIDEOS)

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=256557

So now is its final paint job and shell. It will then go on a shelf and only be driven to test it so that when i come to sell it, Its still brand spanking new.

So things i can say about the Tamiya before the unveiling is:

New Items

New 3racing wheel and tyre set (coloured for new theme)
New shock Socks (coloured for new theme)
New shell
New stickers
Tamiya paints
3racing alu lock nuts (coloured for new theme)
15T Brushed Motor :D
Sniper 12T ESC
Acoms Servo
Upgraded 19T Pinion gear (re-enforced) Give more top speed :D
Brand new screw setOlder bought hop ups

3racing Alu Shocks
3racing Alu wheel hubs Front&Rear
3racing Alu turnbuckle arms
3racing alu lock nuts
Jconcepts Spoiler/Wing (coloured for new theme)
Carbon Shock tower stifnerSo thats all the upgrades and parts. Will post images of new completed shell hopefully on sunday as long as the stickers turn up this week to finish it off. Its all sprayed and in working order. Just stickers to go. :roll2:

BIG THANKS TO SAM MY GIRLFRIEND FOR HER AMAZING JOB AT MASKING THE SHELL. There is no way that i could have done it so acurate.

paulmaggsy

04-28-2010, 03:08 PM

BEHOLD THE NEW COMPLETED TAMIYA

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk11/paulmaggs/Coca-Cola-723214.jpg

Masking and Stickers Completed By Girlfriend and Built and Sprayed by Myself

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk11/paulmaggs/100_1773.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk11/paulmaggs/100_1775-1.jpg

White Stripes and Front Grill Masked By girlfriend and Coca Cola Stickers added at the end

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk11/paulmaggs/100_1777.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk11/paulmaggs/100_1775-1.jpg

http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk11/paulmaggs/100_1776.jpg

Please leave your comments.

JDT

08-17-2010, 02:44 PM

DF 02 monster truck coming to target, $99.99 RTR, titled as Monster XX, from extreme machines, the ones that did the Raptor and Thunder Traxx trucks at costco last christman. Thread at rcuniverse. Hijacked pic to big to post here

g_man

08-17-2010, 06:29 PM

I wonder if the centre driveshaft in the Monster XX is stock DF02? I'd guess it would be. They don't seem to have changed much, although the're not using the radio platform/shelf thing that usually sits above the steering servo. It looks like a basic ESC is sitting behind the motor (under all the wires). Hmmm.

There u go! A testament to the toughness of the DF02 drivetrain. You couldn't do that with a DF03 & expect it to last.

Check it out @ rcuniverse (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9938129/anchors_9938129/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#9938129)

JDT

08-18-2010, 07:39 AM

It appears to be the normal plastic shaft although EM does have upgrade version on their webpage.
to me it looks like the table part that covers the servo is there just not the extra shelf, in the pictures I think your looking at the receiver sitting on top of the servo I agree the the esc is tucked in between the motor and servo

Here is extremes website, it has the phone number that for for some reason goes directly to a hobby shop that sells the parts.

http://extrememachinesrc.com/

Cardnim

09-17-2010, 06:16 AM

Hey guys,
I bought a DF-02 GH a while back (eBay!) and have spent the last couple of months trying to rebuild and improve it - some bought parts and some Ive made myself.

At the moment, its still running the original wheels and tyres (which are totally bald) and I race a track which is a mix of large stoney ground for a section into a small gravel 2 bends, then the rest is concrete.

So... my two big problems (alot!) of bottoming out on the big stones which kicks the car around and makes it very 'squirly'.
The other problem is no traction because of the bald tyres.

After reading literally every forum, article, and youtube video I can find about the DF-02 I think that larger tyres will help and everyone seems to talk well about the Proline Dirt Hawg III on the front and Hawg I on the back.
However, I am damned if I can find anywhere that sells these as a combo (wheels and tyres) that will definately fit on my 12mm hex setup.

Any advice please chaps?
The closest I could find to success is very expense bead-loc wheels from titus (which I cannot find out if they are 12mm hex or not):
http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/car/item/PL1071-13-Pro-Line-Dirt-Hawg-Tyres-Mounted-On-Titus-Bead-Loc-Wheels-Fit-Mini-E-REVO--Etc__f59c/

Any advice greatly appreciated - thanks guys! :)

TitaniumXRC

09-18-2010, 11:11 AM

Where can I find tires, any compatible tires for a DF-02??? Also how does a brushless work out in the Gravel Hound? What size brushless.

JDT

09-21-2010, 10:49 AM

you can fit the buggy dirt hawg iii on the stock front wheels and the buggy dirt hawg 1 on the stock rear wheels

lots of people will just run four rears(hawg 1) on the hpi super star wheels
number 3031 is black, 3032 chrome etc, they are available nearly everywhere

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCEA1&P=7

The tamiya df 03 wheels fit fine also they are part number
0440209 and 0440210 for black, about $6 but a little harder to find.

These buggy hawgs are about 1/2 inch taller than the stock wheels, meaning you only gain 1/4 inch of ground clearance, alot of people are running 4 inch tall truck tires on the df 02, HPI makes tons of wheels that will fit, just make sure you get four rear rims as sometimes the fronts are different

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM875&P=ML

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRD76&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEWZ9&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKSD0&P=7

in all different colors, most of the HPI 2.2 wheels come with the adapters to put them on multiple trucks, the df 02 only takes a small plastic piece in the back of the wheel as HPI has little bump outs on there 12 mm hexes.

As far as brushless systems go, stay under 4000 kv and you should have no problems gearing for whatever tire and driving conditions you want. My favorite setup for the df 02 is mamba maxx or maxx pro and lehner xl 3100, fast enough for the yard on 2s and stupid fast on 3s, the new sidewinder 3600 should be a decent cheaper setup, my cousins boy runs the $60-60 amp leopard 3930 kv setup with no problems on 4 inch tires geared 70/17.

MrStinky

11-01-2010, 01:20 PM

Hey guys, i've been reading through this thread trying to find some info on my GH rebuild. There's just a ton of info its overwhelming and trying to get up to speed with some of the technical stuff.

I got the GH off the shelf for my son to start using. It really doesnt have the ground clearence so i figure i'd get some tires and wheels and make it into a stadium truck and freshen it up - kids love them trucks :) Them maybe some of the evader shocks later.

I've put a Trinity Camelion 19t in it a while back and never changed the gearing (stock 19/70). Question is, with putting larger tires on it should i put a smaller pinion in it? As its now the speed control does get pretty hot.

I saw these in the hobby shop, RPM Revolver 2.2" Rear Wheel Black RC10T4 (2), has anyone used them on the GH? I really like the look of them and they are 12mm hex but not sure about the hub with. Figured they might be better than the HPI superstar's to keep dirt out.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXLF5&P=7

JDT

11-18-2010, 11:54 AM

I think I ran my 19 turn at 70/17 gearing with four inch tall tires

MrStinky

11-18-2010, 01:33 PM

I think I ran my 19 turn at 70/17 gearing with four inch tall tires

Thanks JDT, i got some wheels and 4" tires and found a gearing calculator. I put in the 17t pinion, but the Chameleon 19t is making the stock ESC real hot still. So, i opted for the Tamiya Sport Tuned motor. When it all goes kaput, i'll get a ESC that can handle that 19t motor.

timie1

12-06-2010, 02:30 PM

This thread is too big so finding information is too daunting.

Mr Stinky, if you're running the stock TEU-101 speed control, it is really only suitable for about 23 turn or higher. It will run a 19t, but it will get hot, no matter what gearing you use. The good thing is the stock ESC's are virtually bulletproof, however, that is no reason to deliberately set out to murder it.

Ages ago I used a Trinity Chameleon 2 motor on that ESC in my GH. It certainly was loads faster, but as you said it gets hot, and so did the motor. My advice is to sell it before you blow the motor or ESC up, and go buy a brushless setup such as the sidewinder or an EZrun. I'd buy the sidewinder first, but I do have 2 EZrun's and I can't really complain.
Those brushed motors perform well, but they degrade so quickly. If it's so hot and stressed (which it is in a DF02 with gearing options) then you'll wear out brushes really fast, the commutator will wear out and it'll be very concave, which it isn't when it's new, and you'll start getting hanging brushes which is the spring not pushing the brush far enough to touch the comm. It will show up as refusing to get going unless you push it, or touch the brush springs endbell to make a contact.

Just get rid of it and go brushless. A low KV motor will not be super fast and be uncontrollable, but it will last forever and be far more efficient, so you'll get more runtime and it WILL stay cool. It will give you gearing options, and you'll probably get less glitching if you're using AM radios.

FWIW, I used my Traxxas 3500kv motor in my GH and it was awesome. Not too fast, but it was definitely better than any brushed motor I ran. The torque is amazing with any brushless.

Cardnim, you definitely want to replace the shock oil with much thinner oil, especially in the front. The stock shocks are horrible, especially on the front. Use softer springs and thinner oil and it will far less skittery. On the back, hmmm, not much can be done about that to solve the bottoming out. A while back I posted pics of a mod I made which definitely addresses the issue. It's an adaptor that fits on the lower shock mounting position to essentially raise the lower mounting point. I sold a set to some users on this forum and they said it really works. I would suggest you find the photo and make some, it really helps for bottoming.

I sold my GH months ago, so I won't be making any of them adaptors now. I made them by hand and grinding wheels and drill presses, and it was tested along the way to make sure it fits. I don't have the car any more so I can't guarantee that I'd be able to make sure it fits. If only I had a CNC machine to do it properly, I could make any amount of them, but alas that is not the case :(

JDT

12-09-2010, 04:30 PM

duh the solution is to buy another df 02, them $100 target clones are a calling. Good to see your still alive...me to LOL.

timie1

12-10-2010, 12:56 PM

Hahaha, not in a million years would I buy a clone of a DF02. For the same price, even less actually, I could buy a real DF02 kit.
Anyway, I've moved on to big 1/8 scale size. Once you go big, everything else is so toyish :)

JDT

12-13-2010, 10:52 AM

I just can't beat my 1/8 and 1/5 scales the way I can the df 02, maybe having all the spairs or the fact that I know the spairs are so cheap just allows me to treat it 10 times worse than any other rc car.

doc1984

12-19-2010, 01:37 PM

Hi guys and thank you i have been reading through over a hundred pages preparing me for my rising storm to arrive mid week :)

I have a few questions just so i get it right first time :)

I was at first going to stick a 21t motor in with 22p / 67 spur

But have just acquired a EZRun 9t motor and 35a esc what i have read will work at first it will be running on Ni-Mh 5000mAh 7.2V i know lipo is better but cant afford that at the moment as just spent about £230 on car already for bearings ect and i haven't even built it yet what i have coming is -

70,67 spur
16,17,19,22,23 pinion

question is whats best to run with the brushless kit i have said only other rc i have owned semi hobby style is the heng long mad truck what i have had a lot of fun with and customized over time and that ended up with a 12v cordless drill motor in it and it now flys lol.

Thanks in advance for your help

Mark

szan

12-20-2010, 01:52 PM

Hi,

Whaow ! That's a long time I haven't post in this thread !! Yesit's an awfully long one for new members :)

You should always test the higher ratio first (16/70), if your motor is not too hot (you can leave you finger on it) at the end of a run, you can try increasing of one tooth pinion gear. But take care, I've experienced some low turn motor melting on my df02 :(
Tip : before using such powerfull motor that will turn fast, you should change the central plastic shaft with a metal one (Tamiya 53620 is perfect). The stock shaft twists a lot when turning too fast.

If that can help...

BR

doc1984

12-20-2010, 04:34 PM

i wont be able to afford shaft straight away so you reckon 16/70 will be safest way first with the 9t ezrun i have read many places and loads of people have been pointing at the 22/67 so wasn't sure what would be best i have enjoyed reading through these pages and i have learnt a lot

doc1984

12-20-2010, 04:50 PM

change of plan wife just let me buy one should be here in time for me to build my kit as well whats a result if snow don't muck all my orders up so the new shaft and 16 / 70 it is to start with and i will report back once that has been tried to see where i should go from there thanks for your help

timie1

01-15-2011, 02:40 AM

I agree with Szan, you really need a shaft. The twisting is one thing I could live with, but the constant noise while accelerating is what really bugs me. I detest noises that aren't meant to be there, and the stock plastic shaft is garbage when paired with a brushless. Get the tamiya shaft, or a third party shaft, but not Yeah Racing, and you'll notice a massive improvement when you accelerate and slow down, and going flat out - all chattering is gone.

With regards to gearing, as Szan said, start with 16/70 and go up from there. It all depends what wheels you are running. Big wheels will NEED 16/70, however small stock wheels you will probably want to go up in the gearing if you like speed. It also depends on your skill. If you can't drive (I mean no offense with that) then stick to 16/70. If you're breaking parts all over the place at that speed, then there's no point going considerably faster until you learn to drive without breaking.
Don't take offense with that statement, I haven't a clue on your driving level, I'm merely generalising.

JDT - Yeah, you're right, parts for larger vehicles are far more expensive, but proper 1/8 parts are so tough, it should be harder to break them. 1/8 are no faster than 1/10, the only difference being they weigh a lot more, so in a crash more momentum makes more impact. If you rarely crash, then in theory, you should never break parts :) Most 1/8 were originally designed as nitro, hence the parts are much tougher.

doc1984

01-15-2011, 05:23 AM

it all went well now running at 67s and 23p it flys and runs really nicely and its on stock wheels at the moment :) Thanks for all your help

timie1

01-15-2011, 08:15 PM

That's good, glad you got it running well.
How do you have a 23t pinion on it? Without mods, or ruining a spur gear due to gear mesh too tight, there is no way a 23p should be able to fit

doc1984

01-16-2011, 06:27 AM

the 23p fits where the 22 should go its a tight fit i must admit but runs smoothly i was advised on another forum that the 23p would fit so i skipped 22 and went for 23 no problems so far and it out runs all my mates petrol cars easily and many other brushed and brushless systems run around here

szan

01-18-2011, 02:14 PM

Waouh, isn't your motor too hot at the end of run with such config ?
Brushless is a terrible technologie :)

doc1984

01-18-2011, 05:25 PM

no its fine using a yeah racing heat sync and fan on it tho to be on safe side just put bigger wheels on and still works great just re spraying it so will up load pictures soon of old and new shell

doc1984

01-19-2011, 11:51 AM

Photos attached just went down to 22p due to the bigger wheels need to get stiffer shocks tho as the tyres fitted are air filled so quiet bouncy on sharp turns also had to slow timming slightly due to the tinyest amount of cogging but all sorted now :)

Old_School_RC_1

01-19-2011, 04:00 PM

I'll be joining the fray shortly, just picked up a lightly used roller....on it's way to my door! Been a while since I drove a 4wd buggy.

NYCRising

02-08-2011, 01:44 PM

Hey guys, just returning to the hobby after about a 10 year leave. As I write this I should have a Rising storm on my doorstep. Back in the day my first car was a Kyosho Outrage and then a tamiya F103 F1 car. enough of that.

My questions are:

1. What are the necessary upgrades to do? I have bearings and the tamiya upgraded shocks already on their way.

2. I am reading about brushless and am definately interested. From what I can determine all that needs to be changed is the ESC and motor? Is this correct?

I'd appreciate any advice as I'm going to start building tonight and would rather go brushless right away and sell the stock esc and motor. Thanks!!!

szan

02-09-2011, 02:44 AM

You should change plastic main shaft to metal one, Tamiya ref 53620 is good.
You can also (not mandatory) go for :
- Aluminum gear washer (TOBEE)
- Aluminum main shaft joint (GPM)
- Aluminum wheel joint (GPM)
- Aluminum cup joint (GPM)
- Aluminum dogbone (GPM)
Find all that on ebay stores...

NYCRising

02-09-2011, 03:11 AM

Thanks Szan, The only other question I have is about the brushless. I have no idea about what would fit/work or makes sense. Any help or direction would be greatly appreciated.

timie1

02-16-2011, 01:23 AM

This is one amazing car/platform. For some reason it seems to attract newcomers all the time and as result, this thread is never going to cease and desist :D

@ Szan, you don't like brushless technology?

@ Old School and NYCRising welcome to the DF02. Why you both bought a DF02 nowadays is beyond me, but hey :) Once you buy the necessary upgrades, such as bearings, aluminium washers, CVD joints and decent dogbones, shafts, shocks and springs, and some proper wheels, you've spent well in excess of competitors products which come that way in the beginning, and still have a more race worthy vehicle by their very design mainly in the suspension geometry.

I would advise only going brushless (despite Szan's claim that it is terrible technology). It isn't!!!! It's about 50% more efficient than brushed, it's about 500% more reliable when you have a craving for speed, and it's just so much more freaking powerful with decent batteries.

If you want to put big wheels on, going with lower KV is your only option. Something like Traxxas Velineon 3500kv motor is a great choice. It is sensorless brushless, which is the vast majority nowadays. An EZrun/Xerun ESC works well with the Velineon motor. Any other brushless ESC will work well too, such as Mamba Max, Traxxas VXL-3s etc.
There are cheaper motor options in low KV, but you have to make sure whichever you get is 36mm diameter otherwise you'll never get it in there. 36mm is normal 540/550 size.
You could also get a higher KV motor, such as 4300 (Ezrun) or 5400kv (mamba max and others'). They are faster motors but gearing options are more limited. With the DF02 gearing options are really limited anyway, and with big wheels on a high KV motor, you will cook something, either batteries, ESC, or motor, or all of the above.

You will want the centre driveshaft replaced. Obviously the Tamiya one would be best, but other aluminium ones are fine. Stay away from Yeah Racing. I've had good luck with GPM, but it did require a small mod.

I only replaced the rear dogbones on my one, with GPM ones. The stock dogbones on the rear twisted with a measly (well it wasn't measly at the time) 19 turn brushed motor. With brushless, they'll twist really quickly. The GPM ones are considerably better, but did show a bit of twisting under brushless, but nothing to worry about.
On the front I stuck with the stock dogbones. I probably should have put CVD's on the front, but I just couldn't be stuffed. I had too many other cars that got more of my money.

One upgrade that was very beneficial is the aluminium hex adaptor. Those horrible plastic ones will crack too quickly with the stresses of brushless and big wheels. I got yeah racing and they were fine. Put them on all 4 wheels.

If you lot want to improve the handling and decrease the bounciness without spending a fortune on decent shocks, just put thicker oil in the shocks. The stock springs are too stiff with the supplied thin oil. Also, build the shock with 1 hole piston.

One very important thing to always have in the back of your mind is NEVER DO THE SCREWS UP REALLY TIGHT. The anaemic plastic thread will strip and you're screwed, or not as the case may be. If you feel the urge, replace with screws with a fine thread for the screws you take out frequently such as the diff housing covers and antenna holder, and the small ones on the bottom holding the shaft cover in place. The finer threads, in my experience, don't strip out anywhere near as easily.

One other essential upgrade is probably the steering assembly. The plastic is ok with normal wheels and stock motors, but especially with big wheels, it just puts too much strain on the plastic bits. I broke mine many times and I never could pull my finger out and buy aluminium bits, but in all seriousness I should have. It would have saved a lot of annoyance from one knock on the front wheels and I lose all steering.

Don't go down the bling bling route. Once you start buying fancy shiny blue aluminium bits left right and centre, everything in time, will become aluminium. This may please P Diddy or some pimp or something, but really...........it's just super expensive, heavy, and not actually as durable. Plastic parts, for the most part, are very forgiving. They will flex when you crash. Most of the time, most parts will flex back instantly, and you'll not suffer much damage. If you get alloy bits for everything, then nothing flexes. When you crash, that energy has to go somewhere. Alloy bits will transfer the energy to the next bit, and if that's alloy, that'll transfer, and so on until it finds a bit that won't transfer, and usually it'll be a very hard to reach, and expensive, plastic part like chassis. Ok, it's not expensive, but it's a PITA to fix. Also, if you think you'll get an alloy chassis to fix that problem, be prepared to pay astronomical prices. Alloy won't flex, if the impact is too great, it'll bend and won't bend back.
Seriously, it's a sad way to go. Just get the recommended alloy upgrades and leave everything else plastic.

Hope this helps all you newcomers.
Sorry for the encyclopedia length post.

NYCRising

02-16-2011, 08:50 AM

Just to update you guys and again appreciate the feedback very much it's been a while...
I purchased a Castle Sidewinder SV2 4600kv Brushless combo w.esc

2 x Venom 4200mah 6 cell NiMH

1 Duratrax Onyx 230 Charger (will handle lipo if I decide in the future)

I went and ordered the follow alloy pieces:

1 *Yeah Racing (#DF-006BU) Alloy Front Knuckle For DF-02
1 *Yeah Racing (#DF-007BU) Alloy Rear Knuckle For DF-02
1 *Yeah Racing (#DF-008BU) Alloy Front Shock Tower For DF-02
1 *Yeah Racing (#DF-009BU) Alloy Rear Shock Tower For DF-02
1 GPM (#TT025) Alloy Main Shaft (SV) For TT01/DF02
1 Tamiya (#53666) Metal Motor Mount For TT01/DF02

Made 1 screw up by not buying a new radio system and went second hand. Big Mistake got it for about 20$ of ebay and hooked everything up and the thing goes absolutely haywire as soon as you turn it on. Ordered the following today:

Futaba FUTJ14 75mhz FM

timie1

02-17-2011, 01:08 AM

With those Yeah Racing shock towers, don't use the supplied screws. They suck. I know of many people who have bought the front tower. The tower itself is fine, but the yeah racing screws are absolute junk. It WILL break and you'll never get the broken ends out of the tower parts. I don't know exactly what screws are a good alternative, but I'm sure your LHS will have some what will fit.

I hate to tell anybody what they should/should have, bought, but I really would not touch an FM system. They are more trouble then they're worth. I have this http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10608 It is truly amazing. I've never had ANY issues at all and the range, it's amazing. I have an FM radio that came in my plane, and the range is nowhere near as good, and it glitches quite badly if it's around any chain link fences, ie baseball diamond, school field fences, etc. I personally know a few people that have this same radio and also swear by it.

Out of curiousity, what radio did you buy used? Tell us how you tested it. Was it inside? Are there many other electrical devices around such as computers, network hubs, wireless devices and so on? If it was outside, was it close to garages? Parked cars? Any other large metal objects?

With my GPM alloy main shaft, I found it was slightly too long so I needed to file away some plastic from the end cups. Not a biggie, but IMO it should not have been needed for a part that was made to fit.

JDT

02-17-2011, 02:49 PM

a good fm radio has better range than a cheapy 2.4 radio, that being said both are so far away by the time you get out of range you can't even tell what direction the car is going, especially in 10th scale size IMO.

timie1

02-17-2011, 06:17 PM

Yeah JDT that may be true in an ideal world, but glitching with FM radios from my experience decreases that effective range far too much.
2.4, even cheapy, just doesn't glitch so it's range is far greater.

With low powered 1/10, a good (non chinese made) AM radio is way more than one needs. My Japanese made radio from the early 80's has never gone out of range, and let me tell you, when i was a kid, I had my grasshopper go SOOOOOOO far, I've never dared take anything recently as far. Unfortunately, with high powered brushless that is not the case :(

szan

03-13-2011, 03:08 PM

@ Szan, you don't like brushless technology?

Sorry timie1, my english is poor for sure :D. "Terrific" would be a best description of what I think of brushless.
I went for a mamba max 6900 on my DF-02, I'm very satified with this choice, the controler rocks with its USB facilities.
Rem : since I have a 2.4GHz remote, the cogging I had with AM has desappeared completly, I recommand this type of remote with brushless systems.

Bye

szan

03-13-2011, 03:11 PM

With my GPM alloy main shaft, I found it was slightly too long so I needed to file away some plastic from the end cups. Not a biggie, but IMO it should not have been needed for a part that was made to fit.

Yes, I confirm this experience too, the only good shaft is Tamiya ref 53620, may be more expensive but fit perfectly.

humbug

03-21-2011, 06:10 PM

Hi guys

I've got a modded blazing star (DF-01/TA-01?)

Anyway, I'm in the need for some better shocks... the standard ones arn't very consistant.

I've seen those df-02/df-03 but i'm not sure which ones i should go for.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GPM-ALUMINUM-ADJUST-DAMPER-SHOCK-B-TAMIYA-DF02-DF-02-/110654730511?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item19c389310f

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Alloy-F-R-Adj-Shock-Spring-Damper-Fit-Tamiya-DF-03-DF03-/200526230747?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb04b74db

I've got baja-king wheels/tyres and a balistic 3.5t brushless with 40c lipos

I've also upgraded the gears with the plastic gears (#50529) with a new 16t pinion and chinese alloy motor mount. I've got full ball bearings and 8-off universal drive joints which i engineered up...

I also bought a 14t pinion to help gear it down for the brushless... though I'm not sure if its gonna fit... so might need some convincing...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Tamiya-TA01-FF-Metric-Pinion-Gear-14t-/200586568424?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb3e422e8

Anyone know what i should do in regards to that?

i was also thinking about getting some alloy steering knuckles and alloy connecting linkages plus adjustable camber turnbuckles too... also does anyone know if there are alloy swing arms that I can buy? Are they worth it?

Thanks guys!

Regards

Brendan

Dragonii

04-02-2011, 12:00 AM

Well, I guess I could share my hard work with you guys.

This started out as one of those Monster XX trucks from Target. It has been stripped down, rebuilt using Tamiya, Traxxas and GPM parts, had a Hobbywing Ezrun 9t brushless system installed, had a few mods done to it, etc, etc.

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/198849_199218766784380_100000887747679_617690_5665 385_n.jpg
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/190209_197285936977663_100000887747679_604595_1372 95_n.jpg
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/200672_197286133644310_100000887747679_604597_2820 429_n.jpg
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/197193_197286296977627_100000887747679_604598_5835 11_n.jpg

Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jpgeZz5jVsA&feature=player_detailpage

extremecody1234

04-14-2011, 04:00 AM

hi guys should i get a df-02 or a dt-02 the dt-02 is cheaper and the df-02 is faster [i have herd]

timie1

04-25-2011, 10:51 PM

@Dragonii

Hey, that's pretty sweet. I've never seen the DF02 clone in any store here in Canada, but it seems to be quite good. What exactly have you rebuilt on it with Tamiya parts?
That Ford F150 body is soooooooo nice. Of all the trucks on the market, the F150 is the nicest!

@Humbug, those alloy turnbuckles are a good upgrade. They add bling and functionality. I would suggest getting the alloy steering linkages too. I never did on mine, but I would have bought them eventually if I didn't sell my car. The plastic is too weak and I was forever super gluing them to get me going again. One hit into a curb or something and they would break again, hahaha.

@extremecody1234
Why would you buy either of them? Buy something else that is better from the ground up, and cheaper in the end. If you're thinking of getting a DT-02, get an Associated B4. Or if you want a DF-02 instead, get an Associated B44 or one of the other Tamiya offerings. By the time you buy the car, put all necessary upgrades on, you've spent in excess of a B4, which is way better out of the box than a DF02 is with 100's of $$ sunk into it. I've got a B4, and I had a DF02. I can say there is no comparison in build quality, and in particular quality of components. The plastic composition is better on the competition, the suspension is a million times better, the durability is just as good, if not, in some respects, better. You can race it competitively if you choose to, and they also handle brushless power better because of a slipper clutch. I don't know if the DT02 has a slipper, but the DF02 does not.

RatsacK

07-19-2011, 03:40 AM

JDT

07-21-2011, 04:15 PM

The DF 02 is pretty wide so most buggy bodies won't work
there are two different DF 02 bodies from tamiya, the gravel hound and plama edge shair one body the rising storm is the other. I have got them from Champ RC in Japan in the past for about $16 or $19 at Dinball/RcMart.
I made my df 02 a wanna be truggy with a RC10GT body, the RC10GT2 bodies fit pretty good to. I don't use any body posts anymore just "industrial strength" velcro on the sides of the chassis.
The Pro Line Baja Bug body is a pretty good fit on the DF 02 chassis also

mojaffa

08-11-2011, 03:48 PM

I bought a DF-02 for my 10 year old son yesterday. After about one hour of really fun I'm wondering if we're bouth ready for some more juice.
I found this one:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/hobbywing-ezrun-35a-sl-brushless-esc-9t-4300kv-motor-pro-card-combo-for-1-10-1-12-toy-car-35948
Can anyone please tell me if ti will fit my DF-02?
Will it make it both much faster and also last a bit longer?
Is there any additional parts I absolutely should buy at the same time?
Is the price all right considering free shipping and all?

timie1

08-19-2011, 01:59 AM

Yes that EZrun will make it a lot quicker than stock. With the right batteries, you won't even think it's the same car.

Many here have gone the EZrun route at one point. It's quite good and adequately suitable for a stock DF-02.

You will need to buy some Lipo batteries if you want a decent step up in power. Depending on the sort of batteries you're using now, you may not notice much improvement.
Also, depending on the charger you have (which is in part determined by the batteries you use), you may need to buy a lipo charger.

Aside from possibly batteries and a different charger, you won't NEED anything to move to brushless. About the only thing I would suggest is the centre driveshaft. The stock will rattle and be annoying, but if you don't mind the chatter, then the plastic stock one will suffice.

The price is about average for that combo considering free shipping.

This is probably a moot point as you've probably gone and bought it already, or forgotten about it entirely and just moved on.

mojaffa

08-19-2011, 03:59 AM

Thank you very much for your reply!
I ended up getting this (http://www.dealextreme.com/p/zdp-power-7-4v-5200mah-30c-replacement-li-poly-battery-pack-for-1-10-r-c-car-boat-51196) battery. I friend has a charger he could give to me as he doesn't use it himself.
I bought alu driveshaft, so it seems I've got it all covered now.
My next plan after I got the engine installed is new, bigger tires.
I've seen some pictures in this tread that seems quite nice!
Once again, thanks for the reply!
I'm a total noob and appriciate help a lot.

Octoarm

09-11-2011, 11:38 AM

When I was a kid I put together the Kyosho - Icarus. I always wanted to do another one. So 24 years and couple of weeks later I bought this Tamiya - Rising Storm. Seemed like a great way to start building again. I just finished it yesterday. It took me a couple of days. I know it's not the best RC car on the market, but for the enjoyment and light use that I have time for, it's perfect. I thought I'd share some pics. I can't wait to do another one!

Old_School_RC_1

09-11-2011, 11:49 AM

That looks great! Best looking body in the DT family if you ask me.

mojaffa

09-12-2011, 06:54 AM

Status:
The new engine is installed and the 1. test drive with LIpo was yesterday.
It flies!
Since the tarmac was a bit humid it was impossible not to spin the wheels no matter how fast we were going, and priceless smile presented itself on my sons face.

hayden9419

10-19-2011, 02:39 AM

Hi All,

I have Just bought a DF-02 Rising storm to go with my df01 and df03. its a rtr and the driveshafts wobble like ****. is there any fix to this?

Hayden

_Yoda_

12-05-2011, 07:13 AM

Hey guys i got my rising storm about a week ago. This is my first rc car and im loving it all the way. Its so much fun taking this car out on a dirt road(no tracks where i live:() and just blasting the living hell out of it.

I was thinking of getting some upgrades for it and the first thing that came to mind was more speed:cool:. I was thinking of going with an Ezrun brushless combo system but im not sure witch one to go for. I'm thinking of spending between $100-$150 and would like to get my speed up in the 40-50mph region if possible. I was also thinking of going for a 3s lipo battery, what are the pros and cons of running 3s compared to 2s lipo? Then the gearing, as i understand down gearing your motor makes it run cooler, slower top speed and more torqy but i have seen that the gearing options are a bit limited on df02 so what pinion gear should i run to be on the save side(70t spur gear on my df02) the summer temps where i live range from 25-35celsius. The buggy wil be used on dirt and tar road

I would also like to know what are other good upgrades for this buggy. I have read that ball bearings are a good idea and a aluminum drive shaft. If you could add some more i should be on the look out for. If you can please add the brand name of the part asswhel.

I apologize ahead of time if any of my questions have already been answered in previous threads but i tried my best reading through all of them but it takes alot of time reading through +170 pages
Tx allot