help with lowering???

[JMan8108]

i have seen pics of front views of the xxx-t. it looks so sweet bcuz of that kinda lowered stance. i want to lower my rustler like that too. i have already put smaller tires on and adjusted the springs. nething else would be helpful?

[NitroBoy24]

Maybe you could try cutting off a few coils of each of your springs so it would drop down a bit more. You just have to be willing to sacrifice your springs.

[darncars]

i lowered my emaxx as low as possible by laying down shock angle adjustment.also stiffined the springs.now i can go full speed on asphalt and turn,brake and slides.no flip! still got 2" of shock travel.might work 4 u. later

[Cain]

I think the XXX-T and T4 in general have a lower stance than the previous generation of trucks out there. The buggies show this even more. That was one thing that was very telling when I ran indoor stadium class, the XXX-Ts just carved the turns better than the T3 could.

[rcguy2477]

As stated before, just use the different shock mounting holes and cut the springs. I was able to get >5mm of ground clearance by doing this.

[highroller]

If a shorter shock is available that would be the likely way, or installing a piece of tubing about 1/4 inch on each shock shaft will be the cheapest method. When we use to run offroad vehicles onroad we would use the next shortest shock or shock shaft then install spacers to lower vehicle a bit more.
Changing mounting points or removing coils on springs may affect handling by cchanging the load or shock action.

[SteveK]

For lowering off-road trucks and buggies, unless you can use shock towers specifically for shorter shocks, just use the longer ones and limit their length. Shorter shocks may be the perfect fit at regular ride heigh, but they can often be TOO short when they are compressed, which can bottom out the chassis, or bind or damage the drivetrain or steering. Plus you have to buy all new shocks.

I would stick with spacers inside the shocks to limit their length, or shorter shafts as highroller suggested. Use hard plastic spacers, not fuel tubing, as it's difficult to get an accurate length with tubing, and the tubing can compress under load from the springs. Associated makes/made a spacer set specifically for this application, and RPM's clips will also work. I always clean and save my old plastic spacers from Associated shock rebuilds for this purpose. Use plastic spacers, not metal, so you don't scratch the shaft.

Don't fill the shocks with oil until you have their length all set, and replace the seals if you've been doing a lot of rebuilding to get the length right.

I recommend using shorter buggy or touring car springs, rather than leaving long springs on there or cutting them. If the springs are too long, they will have too much pre-load on the shortened shock, which is bad. If you cut the springs, you risk making them uneven lengths, which can 'tweak' the suspension and affect handling, which is also bad.

I lowered my RC10T using Factory Works towers and Associated RC10DS shocks, but I only bought the towers because I had the shocks on hand: If not I would have just limited the stock shocks and left it at that.

[highroller]

On a smooth surface you don't need a lot of suspension action. When we used to run the RC10s (original) in offroad, then as converted oval in winter.
Since the surfaces were smooth shorter shocks were used, along with fuel tubing to get the right height, springs were changed around to tweak chassis, silver on right front, left rear, gold springs on left front, left rear. We generally ran a heavier shock oil as well 50 to 120 wt Robinson shock oil. We took it further by inverting the transmission so you had a mid mounted motor setup - motor was now mounted in front of the rear tires, we made shortened shock towers out of graphite or fiberglass sheets that also shortened shortened the mounting points.