T-Spec

[hellbilly]

i dont see much info on these boards about the T-Spec, which i just happen to be very interested in. anyone else?

[Dino451]

It looks pretty nice and very cheap in price. This would be best for a beginer and since its a spec chassis you could race. There wont be many if any hopups so choose wisely. It has a 21T motor and 1600Mah battery. For the battery, motor and rolling chassis its 124.99 @ tower. If you get one, get one of those codes from tower so you can knock off twenty bucks or so off the price.

[oohjamez]

The more I look at my T-Spec the more it looks like a TC3 with the motor and batteries flip flopped to the other side. I haven't raced mine yet but I feel that for $109 you get a rolling chassis that costs about the same as a lower end Tamiya but has the adjustability and ball bearings to hold its own on a track. Afterall, you can't buy skill. Speaking of which, the bumper is quite beefy :)

The manual is lacking a bit of detail. Just a bunch of diagrams for the most part and one page of text concerning gearing. And the section regarding installing the motor is omitted completely. The only other knock is that the stock rubber tires are left best for drifting, but for the price its hard to complain.

[*Supreme Losi*]

I'm going to get one of these things.I'm putting a Lexus NOT SPEC body on it.I hope that tracks will have a T Spec class and T spec unlimited and like a stock motor class,19t specs,that kind of thing because I dont want a 21 in my car!!!!!

[AirbrushFanatik]

FINALLY T-SPEC FORUM...
Well i have been very interested in this car since it first came out, a few questions for those who are currently running them.
1. Does it keep up with TC3 and XXX-S (obviously driving skill is involved, however what is your overall feel.)
2. Is the chassis relatively light/stiff.
3. In your opinion is it better to get a TC3 for more $ and be able to get hop-ups or is the performance good enough to hold onto non-spec racing?

[AirbrushFanatik]

oohJamez do you have any more info, have you found somewhere to get replacement parts?

[*Supreme Losi*]

This place is dead,nobody has replied in 5 days except for me. :(

[oohjamez]

I have no idea where you can get parts from. Just before I bought the car I went to a HobbyTown USA store and asked if they had one in stock. He hadn't heard of it, but once I said that Tower had it he said that they should get some in since they are Great Planes distributor. With that in mind, they ought to be able to order replacement parts if you have the part number right?

This weekend if work allows I will see if I can drive the car against some others. I've never run a TC before so don't I don't expect to blow anyone off of the track with my $100. http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/tourers_3.asp pretty much sums it up.

Here is a recent pic of mine. www.rc*pics.net/view_single.php?medid=33732 Ignore the *

[*Supreme Losi*]

Nice car.I'm putting a modena body on mine,CS27 w/yokomo style rims,monster of touring 19t,Losi springs.The stock ones look a little soft(you can tell in the omnimodels picture that the shock is almost compacted).

[AirbrushFanatik]

Supereme Losi, do you have a T-spec yet, are you able to compare the T-Spec to any other touring cars that you have driven?

[AirbrushFanatik]

Does anyone know if you can replace the plastic out-drives?

[gene465]

Thread is a bit dead, any other info on the T-Spec I am considering getting into onroad cars as the only track close by is an onroad one. They just started racing the T-Spec and figure this may be the cheapest way to get into sedans. I have two sons that are interested so that times my cost by 3. I have enough electronics as we each have a truck and buggy already. Also any rules on the class as far a what you can do with it? Anywhere to get parts for it? Thanks

[Cain]

I am alittle interested as well. You guys who have the vehicle post some info.

[microrcdude]

Where will the T-spec series be taking place? If they have a few by me, ill buy one.

[gene465]

Well I have taken the plunge and bought one! I am having a hard time on the body color scheme and theme! There is not alot of space for the reciever and ESC luckily I have a futaba 230 and reciever and they are small enough! Will post whenever I get finished and get to run it!

[microrcdude]

No room for electronics? thats weird! Sounds like the TC3 now! Well, i guess i will put my reciever on the servo.

[gene465]

Micro it is pretty tight and the smaller futaba reciever and the new 230cr fits well the reciever is standing upright next to the shaft! I intend on getting a couple more for my sons and will have to do some creative installation on the electronics as I have some of the older, bit larger recievers. I have seen the reciever installed on the foam bumper not sure how good that idea is though. The instructions in the kit are not to detailed on motor installation I have figured it out though by the diagrams but my only question is on the motor fins how do they attach to the motor? It does not just snap on. This is only my second touring car so I am at a loss. Anyone know? Overall the cars looks pretty durable although I hate the phillips head screws. I take it they can't be swapped out for hex heads without no longer being in specs. They are also a course screw. The spur is also metric 48P so you have to use the included adapter if you want to use standard USA 48P pinions. The included one looks like plastic! Anyway got a few things to finish on the car solder my ESC wires to the motor and paint the body and I will be ready to test!

[microrcdude]

I whink you have to slide it over the motor. Im not sure though.

[Cain]

Are those screws really phillips or do you need a special flat phillip wrench ( pozi? not sure )..

[gene465]

Cain not sure what the difference is but they look like regular phillips to me, although the treads are pretty coarse not like machine screws. I tried to put the fins on the motor and don't see how it stays on! Nothing to hold it!

[microrcdude]

use a dab of CA. (or more)

[gene465]

Thanks micro but finally figured it out! just had to bend it a bit and snapped right on! I am finished and this is only me third body I have painted so go easy!. Also there is a picture of the electronics showing it's crampness! Only complaints with the car are the motor mounts had to remove screws from the upper deck and pull a bit to the side to screw the motor mount on. The body wing had the film on the wrong side which I finally figured out when the paint came off in one piece with the film! I hope to race it tommorrow in either the t-spec class or the novice class, as I have never raced at a track before! I only ran this thing in the driveway but it seemed pretty quick although I could not get it to go straight, will have to tweak it on a longer straightaway. Anyway got to go hopefully I can get the pics to work!

[gene465]

By the way the color is actually a metallic purple not blue!

[gene465]

Boy it works but only one pic per post?

[gene465]

Well I raced it this sunday! My first race! The car handles pretty good not the fastest thing out there that is for sure but a good beginner car. I slid all over the place and wound up going with a set of 40/35 foams which worked alot better. I used the stock pinion which is a 23t I believe and everyone else swapped the stock metric spur with the USA spur and were running 28 or 29T pinion so they were a bit faster! Have some changes to make like lowering the ride height, swapping out the pinion and maybe going with a lighter oil but overall had fun with the car! Only problem I had was the right rear hinge pin popped out and the front turnbuckles popping off! Driving skill will improve that as I was hitting the PVC pipe periodically! I DNF the main and wound up 5 of 5. I will get them next time though!

[u4ia]

Hai gene465,

Can u show me the pics of Spur and pinion placement on the chassis.

I'm curious on how they set up the spur. Is it using spur clamp like Yoko MR4TC or use special spur with pin insert into the spur (like TAMIYA TT/TB-02).

Also for pinion is it 2 pcs clamp design or 1 piece adjustable like TAM TB-Evo.


TIA,

[Deznuts05]

intresting... last nite I hung out over at the local track helped with making an indoor off road track... anyways I brought my tourer over and asked if I'd be ok... well he was impressed with my chassie but was on the dated side.... turns out that I got a TF-2 and finding replacement parts would be a b*tch... so I was still intrested in playing so he told me about the t-spec and what not... he was very knowledable of it but told me to look around here and ask... but it looks like its still a new toy to play with... I'll try to get him to post here...

all I want is something like the TC3 but ahh not so high maintance... but then again I don't want something that will get in ppls way...

[gene465]

U4ia, not sure about comparisions but from what I hear it is similear to the Tc3 except battery placement is opposite. I am going to change out the spur and pinion and I will see about getting a pic posted here. I have been trying to get a set-up sheet for the car but it is not posted anywhere yet.
Deznuts the car is close to a TC3 and it is pretty decent for the cost. Depending on what class I am sure it will do fairly well. My local track runs a Touring 19t spec w/Chamelon and I may wind up entering this car in that class as well as the T-Spec. With its plastic chassis it is pretty forgiving considering my inadequate driving skills so far. If I would have had graphite I'm sure I would have broke something! Parts when more widely available will be fairly cheap and if racing T-Spec class you will have to keep the car stock. I am looking at getting two more for my two sons here shortly and will have to keep less parts on hand since we will all have the same cars. The cost of the TC3 has gone down lately though and the kits can be had for 150.00 or less now. If you are not going to do the t-Spec than you may want to go with the TC3 or I have seen the XXXS RTR go for as low as 199.00 online!

[Deznuts05]

I'm trying to keep it on the cheep just because I was in the hobby hardcore about 2 yrs ago but I got really bummed when I head "damn you kid you cost me a lap" line... that really pissed me off... I was like sorry what can I do... I was really thinking in my head "that if you're so good try to find the best line around me" but I'm sure he didn't mean it... but it did get me out of the game really quick... I just wanted something fun a racers game not a car setup game or who has the most money to blow on toy cars... I've decided that the t-spec is what I want... I just don't want to be left behind when I first got my TA-02... now I have a friend's old TF-2 :( everything I have is dated and I'll just get in ppl's ways... strangely a RTR3 is also dated... damn this hobbie for new crap j/k

[gene465]

Well I can agree on keeping it cheap my cost is X3! I like the T-spec for exactly the same reason no high cost cars and who can spend what. Entirely spec so it comes down to skill and what adjustments you can make on your set-up. Your electronics should still be good for this car and the Kit with motor/battery/body is going for anywhere from 124-133. 124 is the cheapest but when you add shipping I might as well pick it up at my LHS for 133! Sounds like the racers there take it a bit too seriously! The real good guys at the track I went to gave me alot of advice and told me they noticed I was nervous around the other cars. They told me to just pick a line and let the others drive around as needed! Anyway it is the T-spec class and not alot of expensive cars out there to tear up! Recommend swapping out the spur with the extra one in the kit and use a bigger pinion and you should be good to go in the T-Spec class.

[Deznuts05]

thanks gene have any secret pinion and spur comobs that you want to pm me with? I can measure out the track if need be... or answer question about the track... I just want to be able to 4 of 5 not 5 of 5 and 2 laps down... thanks!
rudy

[gene465]

Deznuts,
All the other guys running the T-spec just replaced the Stock metric spur with the included USA pinion, and used a 28 or 29T Pinion, most of them said they could not fit any thing bigger than that. We run 5 min heats/main so the motor may get a bit hot. The track I ran at had some good technical curves to it as well as two oval turns and one long straightaway. Depending on your track may want to use foams instead of the stock rubber, they wear pretty quick and just did not provide as much traction.

[Deznuts05]

thanks

[Cain]

You may want to try some tribo on your brushes. Since you probably are running the Trinity Spec motor, the tribo really helped. Added more RPM and keep things alot cooler. one TINY drop on the comm or you can work a drop in on each brush did the trick.

[Deznuts05]

man I've heard of comm drops... and that's what I'm assuming that tribo is but ahh who makes it and where can I find it?

thanks sorry for the noobish questions

Man these boards are making me lazzy... I love you google now where can I find them? tower doens't have them... oh how about other drops... are they just as good?

http://www.triborc.com/pmcommutators.htm

[gene465]

Also had a bit of a problem with glitching so I am going to put capacitors on my motor when I clean it. Swapped out the Spur gear it took a little bit of time as I needed to disassemble the whole rear end to do it. But the adapter and spur were pretty simple to put on. I still need to get a bigger pinion as the largest I have right now is a 25T.
Cain will have to try that comm drop! Thanks

[Deznuts05]

I was really pumped with getting a t-spec but after talkin to some stores I changed my mind... maybe you guys who already own one. here are some points that made my change my mind.
1. product support ie. trinity's first spec car? I think it was a pan car? I understand that was years ago but... I already own 2 dated cars and I'm tired of being told that it will be hard to find parts... which already I know of...

and I think that's pretty much it... my main point I just don't want to own another car that will get dated after x-mas... right now I'm lookin into getting a used TC3... just cause it lasted atleast in my head 3 x-mas's

[gene465]

Sorry to hear it Deznuts, I am currently debating on what else to get. I have two sons and would like to do T-spec but am debating on a XXX-S/TC3, Maybe I will just get one more T-Spec and one of the others. Like you I am worried about getting parts as no one has them right now. But the car is still fun to drive!

[Cain]

That site looks right for the tribo. You can also order it from www.bigjimracing.com .

On that street spec motor use VERY LITTLE. on hot mods you can go crazy, stocks, I just rub alittle on the brush or a very tiny drop on the com.

The T-Spec looks interesting and I like the idea, but trinity has to really get behind it. The motor also leaves something to be desired.

If you are going to be racing however in a class that allows lots of vehicles and are concerned about support, you may be better with the TC3 , especially now that the TC4 is coming out and people will be selling TC3s even cheaper. One vehicle that looks good but do to poor UPS shipping methods I won't get to drive ( got damaged ) is the Academy STR4-Pro sedan. ALOT of upgrades on that vehicle for a cheap price.

no knock on the T-Spec, its probably good first time racer.

[gene465]

Thanks Cain, Yeah I know my local LHS just got in some parts for the T-Spec. My kids are noobs like me in sedan racing and I am only considering the t-spec because we will all be on the same playing field and not have to worry about people spending all kinds of money on upgrades. Although for the 130 and change for the T-spec for 200 I can get a new XXX-S RTR although it is the older JR XS2 transmitter. I have been watching the TC3 lately on Ebay and can get a decent used one for the same as the T-spec or a brand new kit for 150 ish. Decisions decisions decisions! Thanks

[gene465]

I agree on you with the motor though, I'm sure there are some 27t stock motors that could probably smoke the 21T spec motor. The GM3/P2k2pro to name a couple!

[gene465]

Well I broke down and picked up two used TC3s and a new XXX-S. While I am waiting on those however just wanted to see if anyone with the T-Spec has done anything to tweak it and still keep it spec. All I have done to mine is the Spur replacement and pinion change to a 28T. Any other ideas or spring/oil combos? TTT :)

[Cain]

When you get your Spec motors in with your T-Spec, before you do ANYTHING, pop them on a comm lathe and true them up. These motors are so out of round from the factory its rediculous. When we ran them for our stadium truck class ( Spec motor, 1800 unmatched packs ) You could really see the difference between the motor that wasn't trued out of the box versus one that was. Breakin is also critical, especially with those hard brushes.

[gene465]

Thanks Cain! I will have to look into doing that. Eventually I want to see if i can pick up an inexpensive lathe and set-up station. In the meantime my LHS is temporary closed, due to hurricane damge but maybe someone might have one out at the track.

[Deznuts05]

any news on this tspec?

[gene465]

Deznuts,
I have not heard too much on it although parts are now easier to come by. It is a pretty decent car for the price! I guess not too many people have anything to say about the car though.

[Deznuts05]

true... but how about race'n outside of the spec class and into a stock or mod motor class?

[gene465]

The T-Spec should do alright in a stock or even mod motor class. There is an article in the newest RCCar Action Mag on the T-Spec. Body is awesome too!

[minijosh]

If you look on the tower hobbies website they say the body is made for a 200mm car and the T spec is only a 190. Is that a mistake?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Im pretty sure its a mistake... :rolleyes:

[microrcdude]

well, tower has lots of typos. it is a mistake, unless the wheels have an offset

[irenl]

well, so who already got the car? I'm waiting for mine to get to me... :D

Anyways, when I spotted one earlier last month at the LHS, it got blue motor clamp..not purple. I tried to twist the chassis, nada... it felt plenty stiff for me.. considering I've been away from r/c for... 5 or so years...

I asked my LHS about parts support, and it seems that Trinity does tend to lack behind in term of part support, especially with the holidays coming around... I just hope I won't screw anything on it before next year..

[gene465]

My LHS has limited parts for this car, luckily I have not had anything happen to it since I have been running it. Did have a rear hinge pin pop out though. Parts can be had on Ebay just look for T-Spec and tower hobbies has limited parts as well. Here is a link for the parts: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=TRIC9003&P=Z. Good car, just slow with the spec motor in it.

[irenl]

well, eversince the LHS only stock 1 NIB and it's taken already, plus me getting the same car, I guess they'll get some parts ready. They better be. Thnx 4 the tip though.

About the motor... is it slow because of gearing problem or is it mainly from the motor itself?
BTW, I'm guessing you guys already know about its' twin? http://www.acme-rc.com/products.asp?smallclassid=2 with what seems to be a 27t closed endbell? (love that silver on black treatment... guess I'll be stripping the motor clamp, heat sink, and center driveshaft right away, and probably save some 1oz from the paint alone...LOL)

The car itself is coming in from ebay (don't u just love it when your feedback number matches the winning bid?)

[irenl]

finally got my T-spec... I was surprised though, that there's already provision made for front ball/cup type stabilizer..

currently trying to troubleshot the gritty driveline with spec motor installed...otherwise it rolls smooth w/o motor.

[Deznuts05]

I was just thinking... but has anyone heard of r.i.p. motors??? http://www.ripmotorsports.com/OurServices.html ... they have this service were they break-in/rebuild motors... ever think about sending them a t-spec motor and see what they can do with it? like a before and after... obviously keeping it in spec so you can still race in the spec class? anyways its just an idea and if I had a t-spec something I'd be intrested in...

[gene465]

Irenl,
I am currently tearing apart the transmission as mine has a gritty feel to it both in front and rear. I had tuned the motor the best I could with what I had. Cut the comm, centered the armature, used teflon shims etc. The car only seemed a little bit faster. Currently have mine geared with the 48P stock spur and a 28T pinion. Mine seems gritty without the motor in it. Taking apart the front dif everything looked good closed it up and everything spins pretty free. When I tighten the diff screw a bit it starts to feel gritty. Bearings everywhere are fine. Not sure how far to back it off after tightening all the way but it's over one complete turn before it feels smooth. I will do the same on the rear and test it out before I race on sunday! I'll post the results. Deznuts I have ordered a motor from a small company that tunes motors so I will also have the dyno results from it. I plan on sending them my current one just need to wait on them to ship me the pro tuned version. Any extra RPMs/performance boosts I get won't mean beans if the drive train is not up to snuff! Later Gene

[Deznuts05]

true...
as for the diffs.... carbite or however they spell it... [evil laugh] they wouldn't know a thing [/evil laugh]

[irenl]

hi guys, I discovered the following:
the spur gear mounted on the car is of 0.6 module, the pinion gear included in the car is 0.4 module (48 pitch)
Replacing the 0.6 module spurgear with the included kimbrough spur gear fixed my problem.

Now, I'm wondering if any of you can suggest me which trinity part to order, it's #082 in the exploded diagram. Broke my rear upright when the car got some air under it, and unfortunately unable to find the concave spacer between the pillow ball and the pillowball screw in the parking lot. I would cry if I have to get another kit just for this small part.

Also, I noted that even with the included foam spacer in its' place, the battery still slides around (3000mah stick pack), seems I have to run side by side cells then...(or else use velcro).

PS: any idea how to stiffen the rear shock tower? it flexes terribly with the rear shocks and stock springs.

[gene465]

The first thing I did was swap out the spur and have since replaced that one. Had a little rubbing going on with the screws and diff cases so when I put in a new one I had to shave the shaft hold down just a bit to clear the diff cases. Not sure on the part, but I usually zip tie my stick packs to the battery hold down this fixes my problem of the battery sliding out. Don't thing there is anything to be down about the flex in the rear shock tower without taking it out of Spec.

[irenl]

Gene,
fixed part#082 with associated's #2249 pivot ball socket caps... trim to size... hope that'll keep it in Spec.
anyways, looks like I'll be needing a new allen wrench...somehow the wrench I got doesn't fit some of the socket in the balls...

[irenl]

oh, and the flex on the rear shock tower is fixed... for now... simply have it installed the other way around..

[gene465]

Irenl,
What is the provision made for the front ball/cup type stabilizer? I have not heard anything on it.

[irenl]

Gene,
by provision I meant a place to have it installed on the car... but yeah, I've asked trinity about making front stabilizer available on the car in the past, but still heard no news on it... I wish they'll make it available when they revise the car to up the Spec level (which I hope should be not too long after its' intro)... the same with the universal drives... there's hints of them in the instruction manual.. so I'm really hoping those made available.. (umm... what optional features I omitted when I bought the car?)

However, I wonder if universal drives will be effective on the car, or just act as some more weight to spin, after all, the suspension travel is not much (being that this is an on-road car).

Anyways, thought I'd post a pic or 2 of mine... just 4 fun..

http://img54.exs.cx/img54/9616/dsc035030gn.jpg

http://img101.exs.cx/img101/8528/dsc03511mod0oj.jpg

yeah, yeah, those wheels and body definitely puts it out of spec, and out of the 190mm rule.. just can't resist the temptation of having a ferrari in the garage..especially the F40.

[dub-c]

That is a sweet F40 body :)

[gene465]

Nice! I just got two 200mm Trinity ref bodies as my T-spec actually measures 196MM and the 190mm bodies would leave the tires sticking out especially if I run the Trinity Foams which are wider than the stock tires they should fit rather nicely!

[irenl]

Thnx guys.. ... you can always run more negative camber up front if the tires sticks out from the body.... that only affects how they wear, not necessarily how they grip..if they're soft enough.

So, Gene, your Tspec measures 196mm? is it with the stock offset bbs rims? humm... might want to perform a track width adjustment if there's still some thread to turn, and space inside the arms... I didn't get mine with the stock rims, that's why I'm wondering...

[gene465]

Not sure if I have the knuckles screwed all the way in I will have to check but I am using the stock rims and tires that came with it and the rear is the same width as well. I will have to put it back on the hudy and make sure.

[irenl]

Gene, you mentioned that the foams are wider than the stock rubbers....

well, actually the width of the foams have little to do with the overall chassis width, the offset of the wheels have a much bigger effect.

[irenl]

Hi guys,
I need to doublecheck on my calculations for the t-spec's gearing (prepping it for the spec 19t competition....

drive reduction ratio = 37(diff ring gear) / 13(center drive counter gear) = 2.8 * 1
since I got the motor geared 69/27 = 2.5 * 1
then the actual final drive ratio is 2.5 * 2.8 = 7.0 * 1

Now, I was told that those spec 19t motor likes to be geared between 6.0 to 7.5 final drive ratio.... so I guess a 7.0 is a tad more to the accleration side...

Am I right or am I wrong?
I may know a thing or 2 when it comes to suspension, but am completely blind when it comes to gearing...

Also, the motor I'm installing in the car is a trinity chameleon 2 (pro).... does this sound like a good setup?

[gene465]

Not to sound newbish but the offset is that the distance between the inside edge of the tire and the hub? Irenl, that sounds about right I just put an older epic 19T in mine and I am starting with a 26T pinion and will gear up if needed.

[irenl]

wheel offset: here's something that's along the line of my belief (SAE standard)...

the more negative the offset is ( hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheel's centerline), the wider the end width and track width of the car.

which got me questioning: if 0 offset = hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel, then how come the 0 offset 26mm wide R/C wheels I got has 20mm worth of back spacing? This 20mm worth of back spacing means that the 0 offset actually got a +3mm offset

(26mm - 20mm) / 2 = 6mm / 2 = 3mm and the offset number become positive since the hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel
*************************************************

In general, the further outward the wheel centerline is from the king-pins/steering block pivot axis, the more stress inflicted on the wheel shaft and bearings. but it does have its' benefits in widening the car and help lowering the stance.

further info can be founf @:

http://www.yokohamatire.com/utcustom.asp
http://www.off-road.com/chevy/tech/wheel/

[gene465]

That's what I thought as I had a guy at the track put some foams on the XXX-S but they did not have any negative offset so they rubbed the back of his chassis! That's what made me think of the offset I had never given it much thought before this sunday! Thanks Gene

[irenl]

Argh!!! #%U(#$%*# (^_^U) was tightening the motor mount, trying to get it sit even with the posts... and the cast clamp snapped... tried to epoxy the thing.... alas, I shouldn't have hold it over the kitchen sink..... Awaiting new one soon, hopefully...

So... is there like a metal band I can use to secure the motor in the mean time? just to get it running? Also ordered a similar motor clamp from smartech... seems to be around the same size (it's of similar style).... will see if it fits... since they seem to be more readily available. from the warehouse...

[irenl]

hmm, well, I've finally got some parts from smartech... their motor mount indeed is the exact same part the T-spec got, and I have it replacing the t spec original part for the slightly deeper lip. The motor clamp... aparently they sent me a diff box instead.

tweaking around some more with the car, I also rebuilt the dampers. Used TRF's teflon coated damper shaft, they're shorter in length which prevents the damper rod from bottoming to the damper's top cap. The teflon shaft helps smoothen the damper stroke.

the stock 60t spur gear is actually a 42p, the same pitch tamiya used on most of their fun cars. And I just happen to have a bunch of tamiya pinion gears from the old days.

Also, finally got the car narrowed so it'll score 190mm with most 0 offset wheels...got to cut some thread section of the front upper pillow ball and about 3mm from the upper arm just so camber can still be adjusted.

[gene465]

Well, my local track finally ran T-Spec and I am surprised the two guys that placed ahead of me said they were using the stock pinion and they seemed much more faster than me and I used a 28T pinion. They told me they charged their packs at 6 amps and their voltage was higher so they were able to go a bit faster, maybe I have it overgeared will have to try going back down to a 26 and see what that gives me. Or just try charging my packs at 6 amps vice 5??? Car handled good so I am happy with the rest of the set-up.

[irenl]

from a 6.8 final to a 7.4 final? hmm, maybe.... I have no idea what stock is on the car since I got mine used... and it came with a 27t pinion (7.0 final) and that gave it a peaky accleration... wait a minute... I actually got mine in the 7.4 range as well, with a 72/27 gearing..

[gene465]

Stock gearing is a 69/23 not sure of the final ratio as I don't have my chart in front of me.

[irenl]

no need for chart if the internal drive figured out already... which in the case of the t spec is 2.8 ; a calculator on the pit table is more useful
(spur/pinion)intrernal drive ratio = final drive ratio
(69/23)2.8 = 8.4 final

guess what I'll be buying today? odd number pinions from 17-25.... and a spur that's smaller than 69 if i can find one...

[gene465]

Irenl, sorry but math is not my strong suite which is why I rely on my charts that have all my car's drive ratios! I saw on the other forum you were looking for a Chameleon 2 final drive range I run my TC3 with a Chameleon 2 pro and have it geared with a 28/72 so you can figure it's drive ration believe it's 2.5 it runs warm and I can probably go up a tooth or so on it! Pretty quick on the back straight hits top end about 1/3 of the way on the straight and has been quicker than some of the other 19T at my track!

[irenl]

Not to worry, I'm not exactly an "A" student in math either... During my school years, I'm always second from last in math. The math teacher hates me... but look at who's figuring the fuel maps these days... me. But really, all those internal calculations are worthless if we don't take into account what's external.

Back on topic, I'd try 72/28 (7.1 final if in a t spec)but seeing how the chassy is... 72/27 (7.4 final in t spec) is about as much the motor mount will allow...before having to file here and there, otherwise swap spur/pinion combo to 64 pitch, a big no for the not so clean track. In any case, would you happen to know how many tooth are there on the tc3's differential ring and pinion gears? And how long is the back straight on your track? mins is about 10 or so feet.

You know... I think what I may be feeling right now is the urge for more power.. 8 turn then?LOL

[NotWalkinBlind]

Has anyone heard anything about how well the T-Spec class is catching on... as in "nationwide"?

[irenl]

well, since I'm running mine for spec 19t..... I'm having fun upgrading and part swapping my t spec.

So far I've tried to use parts off smartech, particularly, the motor clamp (since I broke mine)... but ain't no luck there as theirs is basically a mirror image of the TC3's motor clamp. So for now, it'll have to do with only 1 screw securing it.

On the brighter side though... I've been getting some Kyosho V One S parts..

http://img188.exs.cx/img188/1922/dsc028278zm.jpg
I've swapped the front upper arms with the V's part... beefier, and seems to be better designed, for a reason that follow suit in the next picture

http://img188.exs.cx/img188/6130/dsc028325md.jpg
Stock arm is on left, if you note, it cracked where the pivot ball threads in. The V's arms lets the pivot ball thread in deeper and has a bigger range of caster adjustment.

http://img188.exs.cx/img188/6803/dsc028286rh.jpg
Yup, front blade stabilizer bar. That pretty much rounds up the front suspension, it works nicely too (reducing oversteer) Also in this shot is the mini bumper off the V One. Bolts on directly.

Presently I'm still waiting for spur gear hub out of the Pro 4 and universals from the V One.

[racegypt]

I had the same problem with gritty diffs after just 2 runs! When I tore down the rear diff it was almost dry. The thrust balls fell out and still looked shiny! I examined the thrust rings and found that they had a groove that wasn't even a circle. The diff washer was sloppy on the screw and was obviously not running true. I hope to replace the diff thrust washers with slightly thicker ones, maybe HPI, but will need to check if the screw is long enough.
The front diff had just enough grease, but both diffs had some wierd scratch marks on the diff rings, off line from the ball contact groove.
I have given up trying to match the part numbers in the manual, I guess you need a decoder ring from a cereal packet! I am looking at using T Maxx pins cut slightly shorter to replace the stock pivot pins made of spaghetti.
I love the car though and it did perform really well first time out. Just wish I had not taken my first ever RTR out before stripping it completely! I would have saved myself some problems.
I would recommend the car, because at that price you get a LOT, but for about $5 more on the price some critical parts could have been better made.

[gene465]

Well need to bring this thread out a bit as it has been awhile! Running my T-Spec at my LHS point series right now and doing pretty good with it. Currently have it geared with a 48P 64T/29T spur pinion combo and it is pretty quick and still have some run time left with the spec packs. Only one maybe two other specs are running quicker. Currently have no issues with the car and have run it in 4-5 races so far. Tried a few other shock springs and currently back to running the stock ones. Took the sway bar off but did not like the way it handled so it is back on now. Pretty fun races watching all 6-8 cars pretty much neck and neck the whole race! Any one else racing these in spec class? Got another one coming and contiplating running it in the 19T class, just concerned over the plastic diffs breaking!

[racegypt]

Glad to see new info on the T-Spec. I continue to run mine in (Novice) class for beginner drivers. I have a stock motor with the stock gearing and run on a dusty asphalt track. Handling is very good on treaded tires, but I am experimenting with moving the rear upper arm down to lower the roll center and loosen the rear a bit. The only problem with that is that the rod end comes very close to the wheel rim.
My main problem has been keeping the diffs tight. They seem to loosen off after each run! I have tried new lock nuts, but next rebuild I will crimp the threads a lttle and see if that holds the setting better. Any advice from anyone on keeping these diffs running? Anyone else had thrust bearing problems?
I am using 2000 mAH NiCad's, but have had problems making the full 4 minutes of a qualifyer. I think that the diffs have been slipping and wasting power.
I would be interested in hearing tips from anyone else that is running a stock 27 turn motor, especially if outdoors on asphalt.

[gene465]

I know the 27T Stock motors are quicker than the the stock spec 21T but not sure why you can't make the 4 min qualifier with the stock gearing and using the 2000 Nicads. How are you charging them? The stock 1600 spec battery has plenty with some left over for a 5 min heat/mains. I charge them at 6 amps and get around 2200 MAH out of them. Stock gearing unless you swapped it out with the included spur, should be a 60/23. You should have time but then again if your diffs are loosening up that could be a issue. I have not had this problem with my diffs. You might have to gear down then. I have not played with shock position and have just tried different spring rates, gearing, and removing the swaybar. I run on a large asphalt track 186'X90' nice long backstraight and a nice curvy infield. The car tops out quick on the backstraight but it does well on the infield. I may try a 30T and see if I can still complete the 5 min heats/main. It will all depend on truly getting a full charge on the battery.

[gene465]

irenl,
Anymore news on parts that are compatable? Front knuckles seem hard to find and I am looking at the reflex NT parts(tower) for replacement parts. Any luck with the diffs, I read somewhere on RCUniverse someone using the Pro 4 diffs. The TC3 diffs are a no go as I have tried those when I had my spec apart. My son now wants to drive one and I got one on Ebay new but it did not have the foam bumper even that is hard to find! Now that my son is also driving one I think it is time to get some spare parts to keep on hand! Tower has some spec parts like the arms, diffs, rings etc but not the ones I need! (Sighs!)

[trakhak]

Has anyone ran this in the typical stock class, I am going to try and run this chassis in intermediate stock and was hoping someone could give me a starting point for pinion/spur combo. I am going to run a rpm based stk motor. Thanks

[gene465]

I have not run this in stock but currently geared with a 64/29 for the 21T Spec motor, I would start with a 24 and work your way up. I have run it with a epic 19T motor and used a 27t pinion and it sure did move alot quicker than that 21t Spec motor!

[KartMan]

Man, went thru the diffs in this car last night, ugly!

[gene465]

Kartman,
Know what you mean, I wound up flipping the diff plates over! They were more free after rebuilding them though!

[zephry]

hello to all,
This is my second car.I took the diffs apart and both the front and the back were totally dry. the thrust washers were totally bent around the bearings, and the rings also had a major grove cut into them from the larger bearings. This was two weeks ago. yesterday I got a set of the pro4 diff started to put it on(every part but the gears) and found out that the diff ring is much smaller in diameter. this causes the bearing to ride on the outside of the diff ring. They still make contact I just dont know if it's enough.
Has anyone else used this diff set? just wondering.

[gene465]

Check the RCUniverse forums I remember reading about someone using the pro 4 diffs in their T-Spec if I find a link I will post it!

[zephry]

Yeah I saw that post, that's where I got the idea to change out the diffs. Even the guy that put that post up said that the balls were too close to the edge of the rings.
here is the link if anyone else is interested
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2439934/anchors_2439934/mpage_1/key_tspec/anchor/tm.htm#2439934

[Dan-o]

Greetings all,
I've been away from R/C for about 5 years or so, but I'm seriously eyeing a T-Spec for the near future. I've heard a bunch of great things about it. Anyone know if there is a spec class in or around Minneapolis? I understand the car is quite capable in stock/mod as well, but I'm more interested in a tuning oriented class.

[gene465]

Dan-o,
Welcome back! Can't comment on your area but we have a strong class at my LHS and I love racing this car! It is good for it's purpose but I would be leary of trying to run it in mod! The reason the car does well is because it's plastic and the spec motor does not push the kind of speeds a mod motor would give it. Very durable for spec but mod it would have alot of breakage! Our class is pretty much a tuners class as there is only two new guys running a spec. Good Luck! Gene

[Dan-o]

What esc are you running? I've been toying around with the idea of running all the spec motors and batteries with a NOVAK GT7 or GTX, after replacing the diffs with the PRO4 diffs. What does everyone else you drive with run (car wise)?

[gene465]

Dan-o,
I have been running mine with only a Futaba MC230CR ESC works just fine, I keep my GTX with my TC4! :) No one runs any high end ESC with it, I have seen Duratrax sprint/Streak, LRP runner, I think the best ESC I saw one one of our Specs was a LRP A1.

[Dan-o]

I'm bidding on a Street Spec with a cheeper Novak speed control and JR radio, but it still has 6 days + left...probably won't get it for $50...

The only reason I want a T-Spec is the car has limited ability for hop-up. discourages me from spending too much money on carbon fiber this and lightweight aluminium that. A good ESC isn't overkill in my book. have to make the most of that spec motor and battery!

Does anyone have info on the aluminum shock bodies I've seen on the german version? Where to get, how much etc? the plastic shock bodies are threaded which is a +, but plastic shocks scare me.

[hondafather]

Im thinking of buyin one of these cars. I want to make it go very fast. Im not into spec racing. I want to get this car because its a cheap kit, and i think it is light. I think this car can wup some tc3 and losi ***. PLease post your inputs, and thoughts.

[Re-Mix]

Well, I ran the car with a 15x2 and broke the rear diff cup, although the car did FLY :). So, no idea whether or not the durability is an issue, since it could of just been me. Im selling the car actually, $60 as a roller... so let me know if you're interesting. I have a post up in the FS / FT forums here.

[bsoder]

I picked up a pair of these cars used for my son and myself, one of them needs a few parts. I'm having some trouble locating these parts, partially because the manual doesn't identify them very well. Anyone know a good place to get parts for these, and any help in identifying these parts would help as well. The parts I need (according to the bubbles that point to the parts, not the actual parts list) are 082, 142, 143, 144, and some of the foam washers.

[gene465]

What are the parts called? Try checking with tower hobbies, not all the parts are listed under the T-Spec. May have to check under trinity for the parts. My LHS stocks some parts like the f/r knuckles, bulkheads, diffs etc.... I am trying to find the hinge pins though. Check E-Bay under Acme R/C hobbies as there is a car with the same parts.

[bsoder]

part of the problem is that I don't know what the parts are called, and the manual is spectacularly unhelpful. for 082, the sections that show the install of those parts in the front suspension list the other parts used with pictures and names... but not those specific parts. :( The other parts I listed aren't shown in the build sections at all - you only see them in the exploded parts diagram.

I'll look for the Acme R/C car as well, mabye they have a better manual available somewhere.

[bsoder]

I think I've identified the parts I'm missing. the 082 parts are either pillow ball or pivot ball washers and the 142/143/144 parts are caster shims/spacers. Neither of them are matching up with anything in the parts list by name tho.

[nitroracer4600]

Im going to buy a T-spec soon and needed some help on gearing. If anyone could tell me heo to gear it with a 14x3 P94 and a Novak SS5800. Thanks in advance.

[samster]

hey i plan on running brushless 14.4 volts on this car does anyone think that it can handle the power

[Re-Mix]

I don't think it can handle that much power, or even a modified motor on 6 cells. I broke a rear outdrive running a 15x2. Maybe it was just a fluke, maybe it wasn't.

[nitroracer4600]

has anybody else had problems with too much power cause if im going to buy one i want it to handel my novak.

[rustler 2x4]

I'm looking at one of these and what limit modified motor can it take? I'd only be using a stock motor or a high number of windings like 17t, or 19t.

[microrcdude]

Depends on what the limit is on your ESC

[nitroracer4600]

i know my esc can handel it but i've heard that parts of the car break when you use too much power so thats what im woried about.

[microrcdude]

DOnt worry about that. If you clean your car alot, and clean your drivetrain components, your car should be able to handle a hand-wound 12 turn. BUt, i reccomend if you are bashing, get a machine wound motor. they arent as fast, and require MUCH less maintenence than a hand-wond

[Dee]

I have a used T-Spec car I bought a couple of weeks ago, that has been run very little. I've been practicing with it on a pretty large outdoor paved road course. It handles well, but I am having trouble getting enough top speed out of it. I am running a spec motor with spec packs.

Does anybody know if there is a spur gear available that is smaller than a 69 tooth? (48 pitch). I've managed to get a 32 tooth pinion on it, but it is not enough.

Thanks.

[gene465]

I assume you are running it in Spec class. Best I have used has been a 48P 64T Spur with a 30T pinion but your 69/32 has a lower drive ratio. I have found also anything higher and I don't have enough juice to finish the 5 min heats/main.

[Dee]

I've only practiced with it so far. I would be racing it in the spec class, which has been run at a local track for a few years. But in our spec class, you can run any touring car, as long as you run the spec batteries and motors.

Who makes the 64 tooth spur gear and where can I order it from?

Thanks for you help.

RM

[gene465]

Not sure who makes the 64T spur as I got it with a used touring car. Alot of other racers ask me the same at our local track as they have been unsuccessfull finding one. The spec motor is not the greatest one out there and many times are hit and miss in finding a good one. As long as you can change the brushes and springs you have some leeway in tuning yours.

[Needler56]

how much can the plastic outdrives sustain?

[gene465]

how much can the plastic outdrives sustain?
Wow not alot on this car lately! lol finally finished our series race and got 3rd! Anywho not alot of power as the plastic outdrives will melt or just shear off. I would not go with anything other than the stock motor or a nice 27T motor. Gene

[Needler56]

i've read that the hpi pro4 diff assemblies drop right in, now would JUST the pro 4 diff outdrives be able to work by themselves?

[2fast2slow]

hey, i'm looking into getting this car but I want to put a Novak Velocity 5.5 and 2 lipoly, so how do you think it will do with that. Also where can I get some hop-ups for this? And will any of the Robinson gears work with this car.

[OhwillELuv]

Sup forum. I own a t spec. I use my car for parking lot racing. It is amazingly fast. I am running a 10 x1 motor with a gear ratio of 3.54(35 pinion/69 spur). The internal dive ratio is 1.8. This car has been clocked at 51 mph. Iam only running a 6 cell match battery to do so. This car has beaten tc3s and losi xxx.

[RS4rally1124]

so u guys is this car competative?? i am looking at getting back into oroad carpet and want a tc to race opposite my 1/12... looking at these and other cheaper oriented cars as i make all my own cf chassis... wondering if the susp and drivetrain is on par with like the xxx-s and the tc3 and pro 2/4 (i hate the pro3)

JT

[philp37]

Proud owner of a used T-spec I bought on ebay. Got two actually. One for parts. They have not arrived yet. I am already wondering if I have made a mistake. I did not buy for t-spec class racing per say. But for stock class. The reason I am wondering if I have made a mistake is that it is alot harder to find information on forums than other models. ie: TC3, XXX-s. I have electric stadium trucks, and find the forums a valuable tool. I am very happy to find this t-spec forum. But they are scarce. Does anybody have links to other good t-spec forums or web pages that they could share with me? Are their any reccomendations for "must do" mods or settings? Thanks, and I hope that I can be of some value as a contributor to this forum in the future.

[irenl]

sorry for the long hiatus guys, especially gene465... life has its' ways...

so, to answer Gene's question on part compatibility:
-universal dog-bone: Tamiya 46mm universal dogbone
-universal outer axle: any from the kyosho FW05 and V-one series. They also got a set for fitting wide tyres in the back with 3mm spacer on the axle.
-front ball-cup stabilizer: Kyosho FW05/V-one series
-front upright/hub carrier: Kyosho, V-one S to RRR
-rear upright/hub carrier: Kyosho, V-one S to RRR
-front suspension arms: Kyosho V-one (upper), FW05 (lower) (hardened version available)
-Rear suspension arms: Kyosho V-one and FW05 (hardened version available)
-Alloy spurgear hub: HPI RS4P4, trim to fit.
-Alloy wheel hexes: any that fits Kyosho V-one/FW05
-front mini bumper: again, Kyosho.

to date on my T-spec:
-centre one way out of some out of production kyosho parts
-V-one RRR rear upright (though I'd change back to stock, too much rear grip)
-Home made 3mm fiberglass lower plate (will cut a narrower one w/ beveled outer edge & shorter wheelbase) (hell yes I'm alergic to fiberglass, all itchy and scratchy for 1.5 months)
-Home made 3mm fiberglass rear damper tower (bye-bye flex)
-Front driveshafts are replaced with the above mentioned prescribed option
-alloy spur-gear mount
-tyres f/r: 35/35 sponge, yokomo drifters for fun.
-Kyosho V-one S3 mini dampers all around (more travel)

There's something about the plastic mix kyosho used in their suspension parts... stiff yet still soft enough.
And since I'm such a kyosho lover (esp. the older electrics), I've been dusting off and rebuilding my TF2/3/4R. boy these things r fast. :D

still looking for a sample to model the front damper tower from.
still looking for a solid axle/1 way diff for the front end.. Pro4?

[philp37]

part of the problem is that I don't know what the parts are called, and the manual is spectacularly unhelpful. for 082, the sections that show the install of those parts in the front suspension list the other parts used with pictures and names... but not those specific parts. :( The other parts I listed aren't shown in the build sections at all - you only see them in the exploded parts diagram.

I'll look for the Acme R/C car as well, mabye they have a better manual available somewhere.

There is a new and improved manual available for download on the trinity site.

Thanks IrenL, That is excellent information.

[OhwillELuv]

I love this car but it is not very durable. Although I like this car alot I keep breaking my dif out drives. I guess too much torque.I am running a Cobalt 10 x1 flat wire motor. That motor is a beast. I am also runnig an 8 turn pro Intellispeed speed control. I also keep wearing out my bevel gear in the rear dif.Other than those two problems ,I like the t spec.

[Matt Stepanian]

I just replaced the rear diff spur gear- seems like its prone to failing. Maybe we're sending it too much power!!!!! Otherwise, I like this car. Good balance.

[xxxfactor1987]

does anyone know if the t-spec spur gear will fit in a tamiya tt-01. it;s mounted the same way and is 48 pitch that much i know...

[streetforcegp2]

does anyone know what the stock gearing that comes with the t-spec kit???

thanks
eddie

[GT Freak]

are these kits any good for parking lot running??
are they still out?
what hop ups are out for these??