Team Associated Monster GT V2.0

[TJNMT]

For the turnbuckles in the rear, I run Revo buckles with a washer on top of the ball then the screw and have not have any failures, no more popping off or even breakage.
Problem solved

[slaf]

Fezzy -> Let me know how the shocks perform...

[timberwolf211]

I think that is awesome that other truck parts fit on the MGT to make it a tougher and stronger truck.
Would love to see pics of how the MGT looks with the LST tires on it.

[fezzy]

Just finished building up the front end shocks, They fit really good and are very smooth. There is abit of a rough action with the spring retainer traveling up and down the rough machined section of the shock body though, Where you can adjust the tension. But I am being picky!. I do feel standard 30wt is too soft though, I may build the rears up with 40wt, Maybe even 50wt would be better suited for me, But with that heavier oil the stiffer PowerStroke spring set will be needed I suspect.

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - The high sidewalls are part of the attraction, and the weight can't be any worse than the stockers. The truck seems to do better over rough parts of the track with the taller tires. On the other end of the idea, I'm working on a set of Panther Komodo Dragons as well. They should really cut the weight.

[Saboteur]

Well if the MGT won't be sold (no one may want to buy it), I may rebuild it and run it. That and/or try the Picco.26 in there. For now the .26 will be tuned in the buggy and then later on ran in the MGT. I finally got my drill so I can start the TT.21, but for now it will aid me in putting the MGT back together :).

[MikeWz]

Yeah, high sidewalls can actually be a good thing. If you have a high bite track they're the devil, but from the looks of Coth's track I think he'll be okay. They really help to soak up some of the bigger stuff. Found a set of 4 on ebay for $60 if you're interested:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5969743921&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

[Cotharyus]

Yea, my track defidently does *not* qualify as high bite. In fact, thats the devil of trying to run a high powered engine on my track, and probly the reason I do so well with my .21, is because *nobody* seems to be able to find a reliable way to put the power down and keep it there. This makes the smooth power band on the OS .21 a real advantage. Plus there's that whole soaking up bumps thing. I mean, just think - I'm running 16+ lbs/inch worth of springs on each corner of this truck, and it's attitude on landings (and on some of the more agressive takeoffs) has been better with the stock tires than it ever was with the bowties.

[Cotharyus]

Two things guys. First, the performance secret of the pros. Balance your tires. You'll only think I'm kidding until you try it. You may not get them perfect, but even if you get them a little better, you'd be amazed at how much difference it makes, especially in turns. I'll leave all of you to work out how best to ballance your tires by yourselves. I've seen three ways that work, but you attempt them all at your own risk.

I picked up an Airtronics 358 servo today. Brand new. $60. These things are normally ...well here:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTT13&P=7

See? and the only think you need to make that the best servo on the market that's not digital is one of these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEUM4&P=7
Because that's the only difference between the 358 and this:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCHB2&P=7
I'd love to say I could put yall onto a place that was selling them at that price, but this was just a guy I ran into that bought a 358 instead of a 359, and realized his mistake before he installed it. He held onto it for a year, thinking he might use it, then I talked him into selling it to me. Talk about getting lucky.

[Chevy-SS]

Coth, good idea about balancing tires. I have a magnetic balancer, but it's difficult to use with MT tires. I should be balancing, no doubt.

Why would you say balancing makes a big difference in the corners? I would think balancing really wouldn't come into play until you get some speed up, as in the straights.

[Cotharyus]

If you push the limits going into turns, the last ting you want is the heavy side of the outside wheel going down while the heavy side of the inside wheel is coming up. Now yes, it will smooth things out substantially at high speeds on the straights and stuff, but most people can control thier trucks on the straights. Smoothing it out with just make it a little faster all the way around, and more consistant in the turns.

[Chevy-SS]

Coth, I agree 100%. I just checked my old magnetic-style balancer and I had forgot that it really only works for on-road and buggy wheels. It's a super-accurate balancer but it won't handle the weight of the large monster truck wheels. What equipment are you using to balance your wheels?


Thanks

[Saboteur]

Anyone need an MGT for spare parts? :confused:

[metalry101]

^^^ How much?

[Cotharyus]

Metal - balancing, I started out using something handbuilt. I then modified it, then went to using a customized version of something sold to balance propellers and helecoptor rotors.

Now on to business. Yall are going to eat this one up. My MGT, with stock tires, and the .21. All the usual suspects showed up at the track, including two .18 TM powered Revo's, and a number of stock, and slightly modified Revos. Here's how this turned out. I ran a strong second in all three qualifiers, with Terry running first, either on the same lap, or one up on me. And then we got to the main, and he tried to get slick. Thought he'd "jump" me. He hit me in mid air, overtaking me, and flipped us both. His engine died when he hit the ground, and I took a roll and came out of it shiny side up. He was never able to make up the ground he lost while restarting. The results?

Me 1st with 20 laps, best lap time 28.96 seconds
Terry (.18tm Revo)2nd with 19 laps, best lap, 26.40
Dan (Revo) 3rd with 19 laps.

The next closest guy had 17 laps, and was running a nearly truggied savage, followed by two more revo's (one of which actually lead briefly, but broke) and a Savage 4.6, which blew the rear diff on the second lap. Yea, the Revo boys went home with a black eye and a bloody nose tonight.

[astainback]

Sweet!!! Can you send me some pics of your truck or post them?
I haven't seen any good pics up here in a while...

astainback@earthlink.net

[slaf]

Congrats Coth !

[Cotharyus]

I've got some pics I'm going to put up this morning, and there might be some pics of my truck from last week's race, but none from this week, since as usual, I was the one taking the pictures. I'll post a link when I get the pictures up.

[slaf]

Chevy -> I was installing my FT steering kit and I had an idea ! We know that the steering bellcrank hit the diff and limit steering movement. I wonder what will happen if we drill new steering post holes to move the steering kit a little bit back (4-5mm nearer the tranny). This should give move rotation to the bellcrank and prevent the hitting the diff....This was just an idea...It was 5am when I tought about this mod.... :rolleyes:

[Saboteur]

^^^ How much?

$200 with engine sound goods? I'm only taking MO's right now, till I get my own Ebay account set up. :(

[fezzy]

Well done on your victory, But with the up-most respect 'Terry' got a quicker lap with his Revo, Over two seconds faster than your fastest time. This just tells me that 'Terry' isn't a good driver, Because if he was half decent he would of shown consistency, And with an average of 2 seconds per lap faster than you, He would of won easily.

Like I said, No dis-respect to you at all, Well done infact!. But although the MGT handles well, Its never going to be as well as a Revo, Thats just a fact.

We have to remember that racing is 90% Driver 10% Car, And the better, More consistent driver won on the day.

On a side note, My RB 063 Pipe fits great in the standard location,Abit close to my PowerStrokes at the rear, But it should be fine.

[Cotharyus]

Fezzy - I follow you. In fact, a lot of people put in faster lap times than I do. And normally Terry does win - but this time he got himself into trouble, and my consistancy paid off. I know the Revo is the better race truck, but that doesn't keep the ego from going home bruised when you get your head handed to you by an MGT.

[Saboteur]

Coth-Sounds good man you're doing better on the racing scene. MY friend keeps telling me to keep the MGT so I'm thinking I can use it and try the Picco in there. I just hate swapping servos back and forth. Now the MGT needs a new steering and throttle servo. I can try the Picco .26 in there (:D ), but now that I have a drill I'm gonna try to drill start the stock .21 since the PS is still busted. I'm in the process of buying an expensive nitro engine so I was just thinking of way's to put the $$ back into the ATM while I withdraw some.

[Saboteur]

Used the trusty powerdrill to put this sucker back together. Still need 2 more screws for the fuel tank though and everything else will be all good. Unless I can't find someone who needs one for spare parts, I'll probably drive it again.

[Saboteur]

Here's a close up. Just gonna install linkages and the stock servo for the reverse. The truck is in really good condition.

[slaf]

Coth -> Why are you racing with your stock tires ? Did you buy your Losi tires ?

[timberwolf211]

what do you guys reccomend for a racing tire? I was thinking about getting a set of mulchers for MGT cause my track is loose and dusty and all the stock tires do is slide like crazy.

[slaf]

what do you guys reccomend for a racing tire? I was thinking about getting a set of mulchers for MGT cause my track is loose and dusty and all the stock tires do is slide like crazy.

Some guys race Mulchers with succes at the BMX track cause track is loose. I'll race Losi Zombie Maxx tires this summer at this track. They are "supposed" to be good....

[Saboteur]

You can also try making slits in the tires to make em look like mashers. If you have something it can spin on and just apply the blade in one spot and make a nice even cut in them.

[MikeWz]

Coth - What bit did you use in your rotary tool to cut the out the skid plates? Also, what speed did you use it on?

[Chevy-SS]

Chevy -> I was installing my FT steering kit and I had an idea ! We know that the steering bellcrank hit the diff and limit steering movement. I wonder what will happen if we drill new steering post holes to move the steering kit a little bit back (4-5mm nearer the tranny). This should give move rotation to the bellcrank and prevent the hitting the diff....This was just an idea...It was 5am when I tought about this mod.... :rolleyes:

I have found the only way to get maximum turning is to make a modded drag link, moving the outer holes out by about 1/8" on each side. Otherwise, there is just no clearance between the ball-ends and the diff housing. I made a few different ones and the one I am using right now has holes moved out and back, so I have changed the Ackerman slightly.

I have also chamfered the knuckles and cut some relief in the a-arms. I am getting a LOT of rotation now.

My next project is "on power steering". My truck is pushing quite a bit on power in the turns.

:)

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - I haven't bought the Losi's yet. I've decided that based on the prices I'm seeing, I'll let my LHS get them in, and buy them from there.

Mike - I drilled the corners of my cutout, then used a heavy duty cut-off wheel to make the cuts in the skids. Then I cleaned up the edges with a diamond cutter/etcher. Just go buy a big thing of cut-off wheels at Sears or at Walmart for your dremel. You'll use about one wheel per side of the square you cut out.

Chevy && Slaf - I noticed with the steering that the inside on the diff where things actually hit is right on the retaining ring. Has anyone trimmed down or removed the retaining ring on the front diff? As for the drag link, do you have any pictures of it compared to the stock link, and maybe some measurements we could look at? I'd also like to see what sort of ackerman your truck actually has with the modded drag link chevy. One thing that will defidently help keep a Revo behind an MGT is being able to turn a little more. You guys have my undivided attention, since I had been brain storming on how to get more steering out of my truck. I was going to start by hacking on the diff case though, as my inclination is always to try to take something off rather than add something on. (that whole weight thing, you know)

[Cotharyus]

BTW, there's a batch of pictures up I didn't take. Here's one with my truck in it.

http://maxxtrack.homeip.net/pictures/showimg.php?file=/4-10-2005-race/DSCF0592.JPG

[slaf]

Coth -> Thanks for the pics !!! Chevy has an excellent web site....Better than mine :)

Check his site -> http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/home.htm

Check mine -> http://pages.globetrotter.net/rc10gt

[Saboteur]

Anyone tried their dremel bits in a powerdril? My old...err...cheap $13 buck dremel set may be going down the tubs. The thing got seriously hot while charging and didnt work one day. Tried it the next and it works magically. I'd like to try the bits in the powerdrill, but wondered if anyone else did that. :)

[MikeWz]

You may be able to cut plastics with it, because you're supposed to cut them at a lower speed, but I don't think the drill will have the RPMs needed to cut anything more than that

[slaf]

I got my BMS-630MG steering servo today. I'm a little bit disappointed. I didn't install it yet but I quickly look at it and it seems that screws are a little bit too loose. I can move the servo case with my fingers....

Plus I had to pay customs (canada sale taxeS) but it's not Balsa fault ! Plus my boss is on a "power trip" and she's on my back ! Not my day ! I should I stay at home.....

I'll install the servo tonight or tomorrow and try it. I have to install my FT steering kit first and I had stripped 2 screws on the skid plate :( It's longer than expected !

[fezzy]

Has anyone any recommendations for a all terrain tyre, That is reasonably in keeping with the scale of the MGT?. Been looking at Big Joes/Mashers/Dirt Hawgs, All in 40 Series. But after being told the Velocitys/BowTies in 40 Series wont last long with the rims, Can the same be said for the higher profile tyres also?. There really isn't much choice other than the Proline 40-Series, But obviously I don't want to spend a fortune on tyres only for the rims to disform.

Cheers..

[slaf]

Fezzy -> I run Losi Zombie Maxx and I really love them. They are all around good tires and I matched them with RPM Clawz (Stable Maxx). Nice combe :)

[slaf]

I installed my new servo....My new FT steering kit.

Just before I go outside to test everything, I went to my mail box and there it was....My Ofna/Picco .26 arrived today.

So I went back inside and started to install my new engine....





BTW, How much do you tight the servo saver ???

[MikeWz]

Fezzy -> I run Losi Zombie Maxx and I really love them. They are all around good tires and I matched them with RPM Clawz (Stable Maxx). Nice combe :)
^^^ What he said

[slaf]

^^^ What he said

I said that I have Losi Zombie Maxx tires with RPM Clawz wheels and I really love them. It's a nice combo !

What wrong did I say ? :) :)

Excuse my english, I use to speak french :o

[MikeWz]

You didn't say anything wrong. I was just agreeing with you :cool:

[slaf]

ah ok ! :) I was afraid you didn't understand what I said cause of my french accent :) :)

[Saboteur]

lol :)

[metalry101]

If you want to keep the scale look the stock LST tires are super mean and a half, and if you stuff them with the two stage foams like I did they don't roll over too much in the corners either. They look like boggers and grab like crazy everywhere, and they're definately big enough to still keep the look of the truck working the right way. About the only downside I can see to them is that they're not exactly what most people would consider to be light.

As for the 40 Series, I'm 99% positive that you won't have any problems at all with the rims if you buy some with the 23mm hex. Personally, I like the Big Joes. I've owned some before and I want to get another set because they really do hook up very very well, and they look great. The short (ish) sidewall means your rims do take a bit of a beating if you launch the truck, but if you want the jump then you really need something massively tall like the stock tires, LST tires, or maybe Super King Pins.

[Raster]

If you want to keep the scale look the stock LST tires are super mean and a half, and if you stuff them with the two stage foams like I did they don't roll over too much in the corners either. They look like boggers and grab like crazy everywhere, and they're definately big enough to still keep the look of the truck working the right way. About the only downside I can see to them is that they're not exactly what most people would consider to be light.

As for the 40 Series, I'm 99% positive that you won't have any problems at all with the rims if you buy some with the 23mm hex. Personally, I like the Big Joes. I've owned some before and I want to get another set because they really do hook up very very well, and they look great. The short (ish) sidewall means your rims do take a bit of a beating if you launch the truck, but if you want the jump then you really need something massively tall like the stock tires, LST tires, or maybe Super King Pins.



Is anyone here using the 23mm wheels on their MGT? I've read several reports of them coming off or loose on some trucks (Revos). I've also read several reports of the hex pins breaking on Revos when folks switched to the 23mm setup.

Just curious if it was happening here, too.

[metalry101]

I have seen the pins break on a Revo with the 23mm hubs. Granted that truck has a Picco .26 in it.

I haven't heard anything about them coming off, but I'll look for that.

[Cotharyus]

I don't know about breaking hex pins, but I know that the 23mm hub on the Revo has beening going through bearings in a hurry on guys at the track that have them. Without exception, everyone running them at my track has complained about the frequency with which thier carrier bearings wear out.

[fezzy]

For a Revo there really isn't much point in running 23mm hexes, On something like an MGT though which is big and heavy they do make sence, But if I did go to 23mm Hex on it then I wouldn't be able to use the tyres on either truck without getting them for the Revo aswell.

[Raster]

I don't really see the reason for the 23mms on a Revo, either. From what I've read, it seems the problem with the pins breaking, has to do with tightening down the 23mm adapter. It seems to snap a lot of the pins, somehow.

(Too bad MT wheels weren't standardized on 17mm hexes a long time ago...)

[slaf]

Coth -> Did you buy the Vantage tuned pipe ?

[Cotharyus]

Everyone at my track seems to use a 3/8 ratchet and socket to tighten thier 23mm's, so I can see that breaking the pins.

Slaf - nope. Sure didn't. Doesn't mean I won't, just means I haven't. I don't really have any firm plans to try it right now, bit I haven't ruled it out either. Partly because I really want to know how the do, and partly because I do know how heavy that fantom pipe is. I'm actually hoping someone will have one at the race here this weekend.

(what race? how about this one) http://maxxtrack.homeip.net/docs/raceflier.pdf

[slaf]

It's just too bad I'm living so far, this should have been nice to race this weekend.

Will you tape the action and give us another video ? :)

[Cotharyus]

Yes, and more pictures as well. Yall keep in mind there's always pictures to look at:

http://maxxtrack.homeip.net/pictures/

There's also a link from the homepage to the two video's I've done so far. I have some more video that I haven't had time to cut up and produce yet, but I'll get there.

[timberwolf211]

You have a very nice track there. Here is the track we have. It took us a long time to get things going but it keeps getting better and we are getting good support from people.
http://www.nuclear-rc.com/index.php

[slaf]

Coth -> Did you weight your truck recently with body, humppack and no fuel ?

Mine is at 10.8lb (4900g)....I'd like to drop it at 10.5.

I was thinking that my new Ofna/Picco will be lighter with the RotoStart but the engine is 2g heavier....

Stock TTR .21 -> 427g
Ofna/Picco .26 with RotoStart -> 429g

Stock engine mount -> 36g

[Saboteur]

Anyone still messing with the stock .21? I think I'll try dropping the .26 in next week and doing a test run. Already seen it run in the buggy.

[slaf]

Sab -> I just dropped a Ofna/Picco .26 in my MGT....Still have not tried it yet....

[Saboteur]

Well I guess we both got testing to do:). I'm gonna try mine out probably Sunday or Monday.

[metalry101]

slaf~
I would not suggest running the Rotostart on the Picco .26. They tend to go through one-way bearings faster than fuel if you use that starter. It's a bit violent, and those engines have lotza pinch and compression, so they're hard on any starting system. The instantaneous torque of the Rotostart is especially hard on the one-ways. If you're sold on the Rotostart wand, you might try using a cordless drill so you can ease into the RPMs. That, along with cracking the glowplug about an eigth or quarter of a turn should help one-ways survive a bit longer.

[fezzy]

Yep, Metalry101 is on the money, Rotostarts eat through one way bearings.

[Monsterbrad]

I like the roto start on the Mach engine it seems to work really really well.
Changing the Mach into my truck today I hope.
Rain here like crazy :( oh well

[slaf]

Thanks for your advise about RotoStart. I have a NIB spare oneway....Just in case.

I tried my engine today...:) The only word that came to my mind is WOW !!!

What a difference between my TTR 21 and the Ofna/Picco .26 ! I use 17/49 ratio and this engine woke up my MGT. 4 wheels spinning, pizza cutter style tires, alot of dust and what a feeling of power.

Temp was in the 200-210F, alot of power, nice sound ! What can I ask more :)

[Saboteur]

Thanks for your advise about RotoStart. I have a NIB spare oneway....Just in case.

I tried my engine today...:) The only word that came to my mind is WOW !!!

What a difference between my TTR 21 and the Ofna/Picco .26 ! I use 17/49 ratio and this engine woke up my MGT. 4 wheels spinning, pizza cutter style tires, alot of dust and what a feeling of power.

Temp was in the 200-210F, alot of power, nice sound ! What can I ask more :)

MMm. Makes me wanna put those stuff back into the MGT. :) Infact when I put up my old PC I'll get to install the stuff back in, because I've seen what the Picco can do in the buggy and I'm not all that impressed.

[Cotharyus]

Timberwolf - that's a good looking setup yall have up there too. It's always a lot of work to get a good track up and going, and it doesn't seem to slack off any either, it just keeps on being work, but it pays off big time in the fun as you go along.

Slaf - no new weights for mine - I haven't done anything with it recently except run it and clean it off.

About that race we had today. The turnout was a little slack because it was "cold" here - about 55F. We started to get a light rain in the Monster Truck main (last one of the day) after cutting the mains from 30 minutes down to 15. In the end, the top three finishers in all the classes (2wd gas truck, MT, 1/8 buggy) made off with a total of more than $780 in prize money, plus some additional swag that Meguiers donated for the TQ's and holeshot prizes. I've got some pictures of the action on the photogallery under the special events section.

[Monsterbrad]

Like I said I am going to try the Mach in this truck too see how it is.
Hope it works out well.
I feel that it will be more of what I am lookin for power wise.

[Chevy-SS]

Quick & Easy Diff Shim

The ring/pinion mesh takes a helluva beating, as all the stresses of acceleration and deceleration are absorbed by one or two tiny teeth.

I’m certain virtually all of us have heard the dreaded diff clicking sound. That’s the sound you hear when your ring/pinion mesh has basically been ground away. Chances are good, when you remove the diff housing and take it apart, you will see metal shavings inside. That metal used to be part of the ring and pinion gears.

Here’s a very easy and quick way to shim the pinion gear. This moves the pinion gear further into the ring gear for a more positive mesh. The goal with this mod is to eliminate all the slop, but NOT make it so tight that it binds.

The original idea for this came from 1100SHOTS on the Monster GT forum. I have tried to simplify his ideas and focus on the one area that really needs modding: the ring/pinion mesh. Thanks to 1100SHOTS

http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/diff-shim1a.jpg

http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/diff-shim2a.jpg

Shims:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPC9&P=7

http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/diff-shim3a.jpg

http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/diff-shim4a.jpg

http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/diff-shim5a.jpg

http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/diff-shim6a.jpg
Reducing the drive cup by .015" assumes you have used two washers, totalling about .018" thickness.

http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/diff-shim7a.jpg

http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/diff-shim8a.jpg


[8D]

[Cotharyus]

Chevy - that's a fantastic walk through on that. Presisely what I was looking to do, but I was never able to find a shim that was the right size. Now we're in business.

[metalry101]

I second that. ^^^

When I rip into my diffs I'll definately try that out. Thanks for the tip.

[Monsterbrad]

I have to say that the diffs in the truck are kinda clicky but knowing how much that area will take its pretty amazing.
I am with metal on this one.
I will do it when I tear into the diffs for oil change.
120,000 front and 50,000 rear :)
Worked well in the LST and its gone so I will try it in this truck.
since the MGT is going to have the Mach in it!

[slaf]

Monsterbrad -> Why thicker oil in the front diff ?

[Saboteur]

Slaf- Do you have the FOC on your ride? I figured since it won't work on my ride, it won't be a real problem since the .26 is powerful enough. I'm gonna get started on swapping the stuff soon.

[slaf]

Sab -> Yes, the FOC was the first thing I installed on my MGT, even before I first started the engine !

[Saboteur]

LOL. Well I'll run mine without one. :) Meanwhile I'm firing up the Rody V12 :D.

[Monsterbrad]

I just like the way it handles with that oil in there.
The LST liked it alot so I hope this truck will also.

[slaf]

I just like the way it handles with that oil in there.
The LST liked it alot so I hope this truck will also.


As far as I know, thicker rear diff oil will increase steering. How does your LST handle with thicker oil in the front diff ?

[Monsterbrad]

Thicker rear oil will make the truck push more!
That's why I like the thick stuff in the front cause it pulls the truck in the direction that it needs to go with the wheels turned.
Thicker oil in the rear acts like a locker in a truck or race car.
It's there to keep one wheel from un loading and spinning.
Rule of Thumb
THICK FRONT!
thinner in the rear
unless you are rock climbing! :)

[Cotharyus]

Actuall brad, it depends. If you can keep the front wheels on the ground in a power on turn, then technically, you're right. However, on the track, a turn usually consists of braking going into the turn, which plants both of the front wheels, which is where you should start the turn - with the front planted. Putting thick fluid in the front in this case, doesn't allow the front tires to rotate at different rates as they start to turn, and thus causes one tire to start to scrub or spin, reducing front traction, and inducing understeer. However, in the same situation with both front wheels hooked up, you can touch the throttle, and break the backend loose if you have heavy fluid back there to prevent unloading, and induce oversteer, which is vastly preferable. Of course, everyone has his or her own driving style, and so to some extent, its safe to say that there is no magic bullet, and you may well be able to take your truck, and turn as fast a lap as I can with my truck, whereas if we swapped trucks, we'd both suck. So I'm not saying you're wrong, just that there's two sides to the coin ;)

[slaf]

I remember in RCCA Richard Saxton runs 5000 to 10000wt in the rear and 1000wt in the front.

[Saboteur]

Ahh, thats the setting I was looking for. :)

[Cotharyus]

I've got 10k in the back, and stock grease up front. I may eventually try some 1k weight in the front.

[slaf]

Coth -> Saxton told that 1000wt is the same as stock grease

[Cotharyus]

Yes, but 1k fluid should be slightly more cosistant than grease.

[Monsterbrad]

My style of driving fits the thick stuff up front and the thinner in the back.
So thats how I like it :)
We all drive a little different so it just depends!
you are right coth

[metalry101]

I'm with Coth on this one. I definately prefer oversteer. I definately see how thick up front could work, as it would work exactly like a one-way front diff in a touring car does on power (minus the lack of braking and such that kinda makes those not so fun), but I prefer having the tail out. I like it in my Jeep and I like it in my r/c's.

[Cotharyus]

Metal - you'd love my truck (1:1) in the rain. It has a limited slip rear diff, and any attempt to accelerate on wet pavement will step the back end of the truck completely out. :)

[slaf]

Coth -> Is your 1:1 truck is a Dakota with V8 engine ?

[metalry101]

Ahh...joy of joys...I get to buy a diff. Thank God I work at the shop...

I think I need to back off my slipper a bit.

Oh...and one more thing. I'm hammering on my truck really hard and I'm curious why the RPM arms aren't recommend on this truck. If I remember right, it has something to do with the geometry being inferior to the stock setup? If so, can it be worked with? I can't imagine it being that horrible, and even if it is, I just swapped new shocks that can take anything I want to throw at them. Still not a good idea? I know their Maxx arms are indestructable. Their LST arms look to be that way (I've got them on my LST), and from the pics their MGT arms look solid too. That's what I'm looking for because I plan on launching the truck half way to the moon. I'm already jumping it a lot, but I plan on going higher and farther. Think I can make 'em work or should I stick with the stockers?

[metalry101]

Oh...and Coth...that does sound like a bit of a handful. I dunno if that'd be so much fun in the snow, which there is a lot of here (Utah, best snow on Earth :D). I can make the rear end on my XJ step out if I want, but I like that it usually takes a bit of work, it means I don't have to be super-ultra conservative with the throttle all the time.

[Monsterbrad]

Nothing like throwing a high powered car around with a good posi in it.
My camaro is great to go sideways in.
Love it
My daily driver has the posi in it also so snow is always super fun :D

[Saboteur]

Alright guys, Gonna try to rebuild the MGT with the stuff and maybe see if a VIdeo or better action shots are possible. :) It's 12:17am, but I can get the engine and other things installed pretty quick though thnx to my trust pair of powerdrills. :D

[Saboteur]

BTW, did anyone say the picco dropped right into the stock engine mounts? Well, I'd prob better try myself since by the time someone replies I could've done it already. lol.

[astainback]

Quick question for you guys running the zombie's and rpm rims...

do you use the washer with the rpm rims or just the nut??

thanks,
adrian

[metalry101]

I don't run Zombies and RPM rims, but I do run stock LST tires on Titans, and Super King Pins on HPI rims, and I just run the locknut. I've swapped to some blue anodized Racer's Edge nuts, but they're the same as stock really, just prettier.

[slaf]

BTW, did anyone say the picco dropped right into the stock engine mounts? Well, I'd prob better try myself since by the time someone replies I could've done it already. lol.

Yes Picco fit on the stock engine mount but you'll need a longer throttle rod.

[slaf]

Quick question for you guys running the zombie's and rpm rims...

do you use the washer with the rpm rims or just the nut??

thanks,
adrian

I run Clawz with Zombie and I use 2 nuts on each wheels....No washer.

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - yes, it's a dakota with a V8 in it. A slightly worked over V8, with a tightened limited slip (posi for you chevy guys) in the rear end.

Metal - It's not so bad in the snow, because it's 4wd, and I know how to handle it. Read this very carefully - my truck has never gotten stuck, in anything you might call a reasonable situation. And it's only been stuck once in an unreasonable situation :).

About those RPM arms - I haven't yet managed to break a stock arm, so based on that and tendancy of the truck to bottom out when running RPM arms, I would say stick with the stockers. If they're breaking, you're doing somthing wrong :)

[slaf]

Coth -> I already saw a guy doing 4 wheels burnout with a truck like that....Very powerful and impressive :)

But gas is 0.98$/litre here (3.80$ gal) :eek: , I prefer running my little Civic

[Saboteur]

Yes Picco fit on the stock engine mount but you'll need a longer throttle rod.

...Longer??? How much longer does it need to be??? :confused:

[Saboteur]

NVM, here it is. :D Everything works out great and I'm gonna take this beast for a real spin soon.

[timberwolf211]

Has anyone tried running these on the MGT's? I was wondering how well they would work since in the tech notes they say are little bit longer for the maxx.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVH03&P=0

[Monsterbrad]

I don't know
I would like to change the shocks though.
but the stockers are ok for now!

[Jamie]

Has anyone tried running these on the MGT's? I was wondering how well they would work since in the tech notes they say are little bit longer for the maxx.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVH03&P=0

I wish AE would sell the MGT FT bodies and caps in an assembled set of FT shocks for the MGT. Just 8 MGT FT caps and bodies are move expensive than the complete set of shocks at Tower.

[Saboteur]

Well I just ran the MGT and need to now take back out the tyranny, because that tiny bearing did more than screw up my bash day. The car revs and goes NO WHERE! :mad: The whole drivetrain wobbles up and down as if something isnt catching in there. I really wish I got the FOC to work in there to get rid of all that crap, because it really is a pain. Other than that, I did get to run it with the picco before than happened and holy crap what a truck!! :D Pulled wheelies and launched foward easily! SWEETNESS! The last thing that ruined the day was the rain and thunder. There were few lightning flashes, but we ran our cars regardless of being wet.

[Saboteur]

Whoops. I almost forgot the pic. :)

[slaf]

Has anyone tried running these on the MGT's? I was wondering how well they would work since in the tech notes they say are little bit longer for the maxx.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVH03&P=0


Those shocks are for the "light" T-Maxx and not for the "heavy" MGT.

On the AE web site they suggest to use 80wt shock oil for the t-maxx. I can't imagine what oil should be used for the MGT :)

I have stock shocks (50wt oil) on my truck. Some people use FT shock caps to prevent them from poping (when heavy oil is used).

Anyway, if I have proble with the shocks, I'll just replace the caps.

[Saboteur]

Slaf- I'll try to remove the parts again. If I can get the FOC in again great. Aside from that I'm runnin stock for now. The car runs great. :).

[slaf]

Sab -> What's wrong with the FOC ?

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - gas isn't cheap here, but it's not that bad. If it makes you feel any better, my truck does get 18.5mpg :)

Shocks - I can't say this enough. If the stockers aren't good enough, use the FT shocks. Yes, they are expensive, but I haven't broken one yet, and I was blowing caps off the stockers all the time.

[fezzy]

Got the PowerStrokes on my MGT, I have mixed opinions on them. I don't think they are worth the price tag. I would prefer them if they just came as a set of eight coil-overs, Rather than 4 and then 4 Resovoir shocks. I had to ditch standard 30wt and put some 45wt in, Trying to remove the old oil from the resovoir shocks was an absolute NIGHTMARE, The shock booties also suck because they don't attach anywhere, I just took mine off because being on as they would be they'd hold dirt in rather than keeping it out.

Overall I wish I'd got the standard MGT now, Upgraded the shocks in my own time, The 40-Series as mentioned are no use because they buckle, And the only other difference is the shell, And the CP2 looks out of place on a 'Bash' MGT. Ah well, Live and learn. I ordered the stiffer springs for the PowerStrokes too, MORE money ontop of those.

[Saboteur]

Sab -> What's wrong with the FOC ?

Nothing..just that I can't put it on my truck :(. Ah well.

Here's the REAL reason why my truck just kept revving after like 30seconds of running....and no..thats NOT rat poop.. :eek: :eek:

[Saboteur]

This is what it's from... :o :(

[TJNMT]

How in the heck did that happen?

[Saboteur]

Btw..all this happened in less than... 30 seconds... :(

[Saboteur]

I don't really know. I found this plastic part(in my tool box) to sit behind that gear on the shaft and the bearing so maybe thats what had to be the REAL problem. Must have been some wobble, because the other gear is slightly damaged on only 1 tooth. I'll get a new part 2morrow. The truck is basically FOC proof. I can't get it that screw outta the front drive hub. The thing is in GOOD. No wrench, soldering iron, or whatever can remove it. To tell you just how bad it is...it TWISTED one of my allen wrenches 5 times over. :D

[Raster]

Do any of you use a machined cooling head on the stock .21 engine? Do you recommend one?

If so, which one?

Thanks

[Cotharyus]

Fezzy - what's the lb/inch rate on the power stroke springs, normal and stiff? I tried running 8.2lb/inch springs in a four shock setup, and they just weren't enough. Ever since, I've had a hard time thinking about powerstrokes on an MGT because of the four spring issue.

Sabs - is there any plastic around that screw you need to get out? If not, get something hotter than a soldering iron - like a butane or propane torch, and heat it. And if you aren't using some form of high quality allen wrench - get some.

Raster - the stock engine shouldn't need any help with cooling unless you're running in ambient air that's 105+F. Just make sure you're getting good airflow over it.

[fezzy]

I have not seen any lb ratings for the PowerStroke Springs unfortunately, But judging from the stock springs some stiffer ones should be just right.

[Saboteur]

[QUOTE=Cotharyus]

Sabs - is there any plastic around that screw you need to get out? If not, get something hotter than a soldering iron - like a butane or propane torch, and heat it. And if you aren't using some form of high quality allen wrench - get some.

Just that it's still attacked to the shaft and its close to the gear box. The 2speed clutch screws are also in pretty tight so those aren't coming out soon :(. Guess my MGT is FOC proof. NO worries. I'm going to replace the part today.

[Saboteur]

Gears will be in next week. Guess I'll test out the 8th buggy with the stock .21BB engine and maybe that TT.21.

[Raster]

Does anyone recommend a brake disk upgrade? What is the AE "Robo" disk? Or, is there a better brake disk out there?

Thanks.

[Cotharyus]

I couldn't get enough braking out of the stock setup for the track, so I upgraded to the hardcore disc and shoes. I've actually had to dial out brake at the track because it'll nose the truck over forwards going into turns if you get on it too hard.

[kurrz]

Strange thing happened this afternoon I bought some traxxas top fuel 20% it was all my LHS had so I did it. It actually ran stronger and held the tune perfectly? I was told this stuff is junk. Any opinions on this?

[slaf]

Does anyone recommend a brake disk upgrade? What is the AE "Robo" disk? Or, is there a better brake disk out there?

Thanks.

I can recommend you to replace the little spring on the brake rod with fuel tubing of the same lenght...

[metalry101]

Strange thing happened this afternoon I bought some traxxas top fuel 20% it was all my LHS had so I did it. It actually ran stronger and held the tune perfectly? I was told this stuff is junk. Any opinions on this?
Traxxas fuel is pretty good stuff. I personally prefer Odonnell, but Traxxas does make good fuel.

[Saboteur]

I run Odonnell also. Trx is still good too.

slaf- new gears will be in next wednesday or thursday. Meanwhile my MGT awaits everything. Not gonna put it back together untill I get it. :)

[Chevy-SS]

Does anyone recommend a brake disk upgrade? What is the AE "Robo" disk? Or, is there a better brake disk out there?

Thanks.
The stock equipment will give you fabulous braking, more stoppng power than you can use. My MGT will do endos, easy. There are really three things to check for braking:

1) Is everything clean? Fuel contains oil, if you get the tiniest bit on your brakes, they will not work. Also, we are always spraying WD-40 (or somethim\ng similar) on truck. This gets on brakes and kills them. Get some brake cleaner from auto store and spray brakes off; they will work like new.

2) Make sure all parts are adjusted properly and try the fuel tube mod as suggested by slaf,

3) Get a good servo. A lot of guys simply replace the steering servo with a better one and then move the stock steering servo to the brake/throttle position.

Good luck

[fezzy]

Having only had my MGT a short period of time, I am more than happy with the stock braking. Thankfully I am using a CRX with ATL Adjustment, Without it I would have toruble keeping 4 wheels on the ground. One thing I did notice is that the standard spring was awful, Like something out of a pen. So I replaced it with a spare one from my Revo, Which is considerably stiffer. The spring combined with a 625 on throttle gives me more than enough braking, And I am at exactly half the braking I can use, Anymore and it will endo.

[Saboteur]

I also run the Hitec 625MG. Gotta dial out some of the brakes or just go easy on the braking. Stops on a dime for something so HUGE. :)

[Cotharyus]

Hmm. I'm running the stock throttle servo I think. Or maybe not. Anyhow, it's one of the stock servos...maybe the forward/reverse servo?..for a throttle brake servo. You'll just have to take my word for the brake issue. I'm sure if you clean the brake frequently, they stocker will work fine. But when the brakes go away in the middle of a race, it's time to do something different.

[timberwolf211]

Actually I am running a stock JR servo for the throttle and it seems to be doing well. I did the fuel tube mod and now I can stop on a dime as well. I have tried many different types of springs and the fuel tube seems to be the best. Only thing I did that was giving me trouble was running a shorter piece of tube and by doing that I was getting no better than the stock spring.

[astainback]

I ordered a set of red springs and gold springs today for the MGt. Stock, it seems to sag too much, and it squats pretty bad when accelerating.
I tried out the zombie maxx tires the other day on the mgt, and it was so sweet. The jumps were perfect. I guess I am better at controlling it in the air with less rotating mass.
i also ordered the side exhaust header so I can try out the fantom pipe I bought a while back. Can't wait for that one.
I noticed today that the fuel in my tank is pretty brown, compared to the purple color that it was when I put it in there (trinity).
I guess after the fuel hits the tank post-exhaust, it takes some of the dye out of it?
has anyone else noticed this?
adrian

[Raster]

What I was wondering about is, what is the AE "Robo" brake disk? Is it beneficial?

Thanks.

[Minty Fresh]

Hey guys...I'm gonna be getting an MGT here pretty soon...and I was wondering, what things I should look at changing, and upgrading right away. Like any known problems/issues/fixes, etc.

Thanks

[timberwolf211]

This might be a time consuming thing to do but I would go back through all 80 some pages here and read through them to find what things people are doing.

[Cotharyus]

What you'll find is the only "known issue" is the reciever works better if you put the battery in someplace besides the battery slot- specifictly the 4th channel. Other than that, and possibly a Forward Only Conversioni (refered to as FOC) I wouldn't change anything until you have it in your hands and see what you think about it personally.

[TJNMT]

Don't go back reading on the pages, instead try using the search button. Or better yet check out this site for a wealth of information to get the MGT bash ready.
http://www.members.cox.net/dbfraser2/mgt/home.htm

And also check out the MGT forum for even more information.
http://monstergtforum.com/forum/

[Monsterbrad]

Broke my engine mount after jumping a ramp landing on the concrete up side down from about 7 ft in the air.
Trying to do a back flip
Oh well
ebay here I come

[Raster]

Broke my engine mount after jumping a ramp landing on the concrete up side down from about 7 ft in the air.
Trying to do a back flip
Oh well
ebay here I come

Brad,

I just got a Nova RC machined engine mount. Haven't installed it yet, but have heard good things about them.

[kurrz]

Hey minty fresh you gonna "pimp" your MGT like your crawler? lol I think you'll love your MGT and I'd do like Coth said and wait and see for yourself everyone has different opinions based on what you do with your truck. Also has anybody else had a problem with steering screws coming out?

[Cotharyus]

Kurrz - Yes. Steering screws will back out. Chevy gave me a good tip, put washers in between the bellcrank and the skid plate. Mine haven't come out since I did that. Props to Chevy. I was doing ok at the track this afternoon until I broke the arm on my steering servo. Oh well, I needed to get a servo saver to put on there anyhow.

[astainback]

Problems with hub carriers and turnbuckles....

Do you guys have problems with eyelets on the ends of the turnbuckles popping off??
I think I read on here somewhere about using a washer to keep them on, but I am not sure. Any help or part numbers for washers would be appreciated.
Also, I have now seen 2 bent turnbuckles, and is it worth getting the titanium ones?
If so, should I get the AE ones or the lunsford ones?? Are there other/better options on the eyelets??

One more.. do any of you have problems with the flywheel throwing out fuel?? I noticed when I was cleaning my truck today that there was a collection of dirt that looks like it might be sticking to some fuel spun out from the flywheel.

thanks,
adrian

[metalry101]

I used to have that problem with the rear turnbuckles on landings, but I bought some Dubro 3mm washers and solved the problem.

I have also ordered the Lunsford Titanium hingepin setup, as my turnbuckles are bent as well. The Lunsford kit comes with new ball studs and rod ends that look much better than the stockers. It's a 70 dollar setup, so it's not cheap...but it looks strong. I haven't bought it yet, as I have kinda run out of funds at the moment, but I'll pick it up in a coupla weeks probably.

I haven't noticed the flywheel throwing fuel. It shouldn't be getting fuel on it...if it is you probably have a fuel leak somewhere. Are you sure it's not mud or water or something?

[fezzy]

The fuel is simply excessive fuel being deposited from the front bearing, This is normal with any nitro engine, More so on some than others.

[Cotharyus]

The stock turnbuckle ends do seem to pop off sometimes. I did bend one when I hooked it over a nail that was sticking up out of a pipe at the track. Being a steel turnbuckl, I took it home, pulled out the mapp torch, and straightened it out.

Of course, that was my cue to buy the Lunsford turnbuckles. The ends are vastly superior. However, the Lunsfords can still be bent in the same way. The advantage is, they won't bend nearly as much, because of the natural spring/flex properties of Ti. For the record, I also have the hingepin kit, and it's rather nice as well.

[slaf]

I never bent a stock turnbuckle, I only bent one plastic end.

I switched to FT TI turnbuckles, they are much lighter and nice looking. I kept stock ends cause I have a bunch. When they seem to loosen, I just change them before they pop off.

[Saboteur]

Well I managed to get one screw outta the 2speed clutch. All I need is to get the other 2 out and if the shaft comes out, I'll work that grub nut. I'd really want to get that FOC in there.

[Minty Fresh]

Hey minty fresh you gonna "pimp" your MGT like your crawler? lol I think you'll love your MGT and I'd do like Coth said and wait and see for yourself everyone has different opinions based on what you do with your truck. Also has anybody else had a problem with steering screws coming out?

HAHA Yeah...I've already got some new rims, and tires wating for it. It should be here by Friday....or Monday. Can't wait!!!

Thanks for all the tips, and links everyone...

[Saboteur]

Here is what I'm doing now.

[Saboteur]

I got one of the screws out but the rest are another story.

[Saboteur]

Thats the screw there. Sry for the blur. It had a lil dab of red threadlock on it, but it's only on one side.

[Saboteur]

BTW, what was in the pot was breakfast. :) YUM! Anyway, this was the orginal pain. It's tightened in so far it pokes out a lil bit on the otherside. That ain't comin out for sure. I'll live with the reverse for now, because I sure ain't spendin $120 for a whole new one to try out.

[Saboteur]

Turns out there is more damage than I thought, which is totally in accesible. Do you think it's worth the $$ to buy a new MGT gear box? I'm thinking of just selling the thing to someone who needs it for parts. :(x2

[metalry101]

Did you try calling Associated to ask if they'll help out? I've never had to deal with AE's customer support, but LRP's rocks.

[slaf]

Sab -> I don't wanna be sarcastic but here's a quick fix :)

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5971824554

[TJNMT]

If your going to go that route, have a look around first, they go for cheaper than that along with shipping costs.

[Saboteur]

Naw, to bring it to AE and all that isnt worth the time. Anyone have a transmission to sell? I'd really wouldn't wanna sell the truck. It ran great for the short 20secs I had of it at the park with the picco engine. :D

[Cotharyus]

I've been tempted to buy a second MGT from somewhere for parts/spare truck should anything happen to my "main" truck. Anyhow, I suspect that a good solution to your problem is to contact AE. When I got my truck, the same screw was quite tight - I got it out, but it destoryed the handle on my 2.5mm Team Associated hex driver. I explained the situation, and they sent me another one, no questions asked. I suspect that they will probly set things right for you.

[Monsterbrad]

That problem stinks!!!!
What the heck.
I am still running my truck with the Mach in it!
Its nice but needs a bigger pinion gear to much low end and no top end!

[Saboteur]

I've been tempted to buy a second MGT from somewhere for parts/spare truck should anything happen to my "main" truck. Anyhow, I suspect that a good solution to your problem is to contact AE. When I got my truck, the same screw was quite tight - I got it out, but it destoryed the handle on my 2.5mm Team Associated hex driver. I explained the situation, and they sent me another one, no questions asked. I suspect that they will probly set things right for you.

I should probably do the same thing, but I got it like last year December and tried the FOC last month. :( It may be too late.

[slaf]

Sab -> Did you try to drill the screw head a little bit ? Just enough to pop it off. I did it when I strip a screw head.

You can also go to your local hardware store and get something similar to this...Extractor (http://www.canadiantire.ca/assortments/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=140847439 6669792&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441899735&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474396670271&bmUID=1115086899729&assortment=primary&fromSearch=true)

[Saboteur]

Drill straight through it? I slotted the screws and they still won't come out.

[fuzzy2133]

I have the same problem with a tranny I got from e-bay. I am just drilling the screws out might have to replace that lower shaft in the end. Broke my AE hex and then a snap-on hex, even with some heat nothing seemed to help.

Good Luck Sab, hope you do better than I have.

[Saboteur]

Hehe, I twisted my allen key 6 times over trying to get that grub screw outta the drive cup. I thought it was coming out, but the key was just twisting! LOL!!!:D BTW, if anyone is interested I can sell my MGT with the stock .21 engine less PS (it all came outta the box). Damned that tyranny!! :mad:

[sabu]

I roasted my transmission a like a month or so ago PLAYING IN SOME REALLY STICKY MUD!! So instead of ripping it open myself I took it too my LHS. What a mistake!!! Not only did they charge me $100.00 to fix it (witch took them like 3 weeks)I went out to run it and didn't even get a lap around my yard and my front uni. drive CVA fell out!! They didn't tighten any of my universal drive screws, drive cup screws NOTHING no loctight !! I couldn't believe it!! So no doin business with them i'll be buying of the internet from now on!! So I replaced all of it and tonight after work I go to Test it out!!! let ya know how it goes!
P.s. Sorry for ranting but I had to let it out!
www.rchobbyguy.com will be gettin all of my businees from now on. :cool:

[Monsterbrad]

Just take the stuff apart yourself!!!!!
No better way to learn about the truck
Just take your time!

[kurrz]

Does anybody know if the new thunder tiger .28 is out yet? I read that it's the engine for the new ST-1 truggy. Thanks

[VWVR6]

Anyone know of any clutch bells larger than the AE 18 one. I got this project i'm working on and I would like a bigger clutch bell.

Thanks

[fuzzy2133]

I think 18 is as big as they get. might want to try to find a smaller spur gear.

[Raster]

Does anybody know if the new thunder tiger .28 is out yet? I read that it's the engine for the new ST-1 truggy. Thanks


I hope it will be the engine for the ST-1. That's the truggy I'm thinking about getting. I'm also planning to look at the new Mayhem truggy.

If it is indeed coming out in the ST-1, that truggy is supposed to be out in a couple of months.

[astainback]

I never bent a stock turnbuckle, I only bent one plastic end.

I switched to FT TI turnbuckles, they are much lighter and nice looking. I kept stock ends cause I have a bunch. When they seem to loosen, I just change them before they pop off.


What is the easiest way to take off or put on the turnbuckle end without tearing it up with pliers?

[slaf]

FT turnbuckle come with a little wrench

I insert one of my hex driver tru the ball end and I turn the wrench until I got the desired lenght

If you talk about how insert the little chrome ball into the turnbuckle's end eyeley....You don't have other choice than using pliers

[Monsterbrad]

anybody know what the stock shock oil is ???????

[TJNMT]

I think it's 30 or 40wt. I'm leaning towards 30.

[fuzzy2133]

anybody know what the stock shock oil is ???????

40wt shock oil front and rear.

[Monsterbrad]

Well I figured putting like 25wt in each shock would make it like 50wt on each corner!!!!
I have do do something about the super plush suspension with the new engine it's using up all the suspension!

[Saboteur]

BA BA BA BAJA! :D :cool:






Yes I know it's not the MGT,...but one size DOES fit all! May these rememnants of the MGT remind me of the fun I had running it stock.
Shoulda never opened the DAMN gearbox. Leave well enough alone is the lesson...as well as screw the FOC. :mad:

[fuzzy2133]

LOL nice...

[astainback]

Saboteur, did you sell the mgt?? do you want to sell me the body??
haha

Did anyone else here do the FOC and destroy the tranny?? I want to do the foc to mine soon, but I am going to forget about it if I am going to risk destroying the screws on the case.
adrian

[metalry101]

I did the FOC and didn't encounter a single problem. It went in easily and I haven't had any problems in the 2 gallons of abuse since.

[Saboteur]

No I still have the MGT. What I'm using from it is the body, and 4 of the posts. The top body brackets I'm not using nor will I need the rest of the car. I say hell sell it for $170 with TT .21 engine minus the PITA gearbox. Best MGT for spare parts and I'll toss in the attacked blue FT manifold and stock pipe with the MGT ;). LOL! Heck, I'll ship it in the same box it came in. Just need to find something nice to wrap it in...anything except the Xmas paper with the xmas creeps on it.

[Cotharyus]

Hmm. For 170 that starts to sound interesting. I've been pondering traveling to some of the regional stuff around here for racing, and a nearly complete spare for that sort of money *is* enticing....

[Saboteur]

I mean it's only fair as it's nearly summer and I got it at the end of December. Also with no radio gear and that gear box to hell with it. It's takin up a crapload of space and I say sell it to someone who needs it more than I do. :) Maybe in the future I'll get another one, but have the guys tear it down and see if the car is red threadlocked again. :rolleyes:

[Monsterbrad]

I have to say again that I am running the MGT stock with the Mach 26 in it and it runs great!!!!!
Smashed a motor mount and that was all so far!!!!
I hope this truck stays as reliable as it's beeen so far!!!

[kurrz]

Quick question I just got a Fantom pipe do you guys think it will start with the stock settings or do I need to retune before start up? Any base line settings? And how much of a power increase and where in the range can I expect it? Thanks P.S. it's the pipe made for the MGT.

[TJNMT]

It will start when put into place, but for being retuned, Yes you will need. the needles will need to be reset in a richer position.

[Monsterbrad]

ran the truck today while I was breaking in the 4.6 in the savage!
They are very close to the same speed but the savage has a little more torque.
The Mach 26 is great in this truck just hangs the front tires!!!!!

[TJNMT]

At least you had some fun this weekend,. My mgt is down with a body posts, hehe ( I know I know).
Spent the weekened getting the Gt back into shape to start racing again.

[Cotharyus]

I was able to pick up a set of super king pins this weekend. Mounted on stock rims, they weigh .9oz each less than the stock tires, while basicly maintaining the stock size. I haven't had a chance to put them on a track yet, but I'll keep yall updated.

[haggard26mgt]

Hey guys- first time poster here. I'm building an mgt as my first r/c vehicle and I'm starting to get to the $$$ parts. I've got about 130.00 in this thing so far and am nowhere near rolling, powered or not. I am going the part by part route because, well frankly I am pretty broke. I have read alot of your posts and I see alot of you spending ridiculous amounts of cash on hop ups. I was wondering if anyone had some stock stufff they can part with for a fair price? (used stuff works for me as long as it is still got some life) Please let me know, I just want to bash around and honestly I could care less if ANY of the colors match or how much it weighs. Here's what I have so far: Chassis, battery/servo box, front/rear skids, front/rear shock towers, shocks, some 5 1/2" tires and wheels hijacked from an old nikko (I will never type that word here again, I apologize. I expect this rolling stock will not be up to par) And a tx/rx and crystals set from a revo. What I'm after: Mgt stock trans W/ REVERSE, all driveshafts/linkages/diffs, An engine- I want the longest lasting most affordable model, not the most expensive disposable stuff. a complete newb question: are these engines rebuildable? I pretty much need everything cept the chassis and arm setup- Clean out your "thats not going back on this truck" area and post what you have please! Any help is appreciated, I just want to run one of these and none of the people I know are into r/c. Thanks, haggard26mgt

[Cotharyus]

Part by part nearly always costs more in the end. But I can help you out with an engine:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLU03&P=0

And yes, it's rebuildable. Be very cautious of used engines however, they can frequently have more problems than just needing a new piston and sleeve, and by the time you buy crank bearings, pullstarts, etc. it can be cheaper to buy a new one.

[slaf]

I went to the bmx track yesterday. Burnt few fuel tanks just to be sure to have a good setup. There was alot of 1" rocks ...:(

I found out that my 8 red springs were a little bit too hard, the truck was bouncing after lending. I'll install gold+red on each corner.

I also noticed that my Zombie Maxx tires give too much traction for the track, the truck was easy to oversteer. Next time I'll try my Bowties.

[astainback]

I ordered a set of red and a set of gold springs for my mgt. I helps alot, especially in the squating on take off. But, I think I need to either up the shock oil weight or add some spring spacers... do any of you have any recommendations on this?? I am pretty sure that I read that the stock weight oil is 40 wt. Also, Since I put the fantom pipe on, and with the new springs, the front end liked to dip down and dig a little in the dirt when coming off of a jump. It was still staying pretty level though, and it handled nicely.

thanks,
adrian

[haggard26mgt]

Cotharyus- thanks for the link and the good advice, I appreciate the wisdom you hardened r/c guys have:) I was under the impression the O.S. engines were meant for racing- I guess it's really obvious that I have alot to learn. Still, thats just too much cash right now. And you are right it's defiantely turning out to be more money going part by part. I looked at associated 's site this morning- anyone running a refurb mgt? seems pretty reasonably priced. If I got a refurb I could just use what I have for spares. I dunno- starting to think maybe I just simply cannot afford this awesome truck no matter which way I go. See I'm a guitar player and have been for nearly 12 years, so I already have a "money pit" style hobby, lol. And no, parting with any guitar stuff isn't happening.(art over toys anyday) I wanted to put this together myself, too, the refurb kit is rtr, I beleive. That's why I posted that message, I was hoping someone had a bunch of stock/reject stuff to sell. I've checked out ebay, but most of the parts there cost more to ship than the part is worth. See with guitars, you get what you pay for, with this hobby, well it just seems like you get bent over any way you go. I mean after all, it is just a bunch of nylon and mabe 30 bucks worth of aluminum. I may just get frustrated enough with this to do some really sick jerry rigging. Like maybe one of those 33cc weed eater motors mounted horizontally with clutch and chain drive- rwd only of course- obviously the stock suspension would be modded as needed. Anyone done something seriously stupid like that yet? I just don't want to sink a grand in this thing, and it's looking like that's where I'm heading right now. The hillbilly in me is telling me to just buy traxxas parts and mod them onto the mgt- honestly it looks like it could be done with some care and custom shafts, but I'm no expert. New traxxas tmaxx diffs can be had for 15-20 bucks the mgt, well you know. I don't own anything that is in its stock unmodded form, from pcs to guitars and amps. I suspect my truck will be no different:) If you are selling any mgt stuff please post what you have and waht you want for it!!!

[metalry101]

387.99? You can buy a new one from Ultimate Hobbies for less than that I think, with free shipping too.

Oh...and you don't want to use Traxxas parts. They're way too weak for something as big and heavy as the MGT.

Just buy a new truck and keep the stuff you already have as spares. The only way you're going to find a cheap MGT is to find a used one that's been hammered.

[Cotharyus]

Haggard - that particular OS engine can be used for anything - and that's a cheap engine. It's also dead reliable. I understand about the guitar thing - I play guitar and bass, so I have to budget my hobbies as well. Anyhow, don't shortcut on the parts. The reason the MGT parts cost so much is because the don't break as much.

[haggard26mgt]

Yeah- I guess it's obvious I just am having trouble being patient. Thank you for pointing me to tower- I'm not going refurb, thats for sure. What are your opinions of the engine that comes with the mgt? Also, the more I read about these the more I realize that I definately don't want to go used. I'm 26 and take good care of all my belongings. I don't want some rich kid's quagmire of broken junk! I have a plan. My father passed away about 10 years ago now and I inherited all of his machinist's tools, as well as alot of other stuff, too. I poked around on ebay and it looks like I have some pretty expensive tools and measuring equipment. I'm going to go through it all and determine what I can actually use in my garage and sell the rest on ebay for a fair price- I imagine if I get on it I can be driving a new mgt in no time. Thanks for the advice guys, sometimes I need the voice of reason to slap me one. Also, I haven't gotten anything cept the shocks in the mail yet, so I went and found some online pics and vids of the truck. I take back what I said about not getting what you pay for- this truck looks brutal when it's running! I am just glad I found out about this truck- I had originally planned on building up a traxxas, hence the revo tx/rx. It looks like that just like anything else, you do get what you pay for. If you pay for overpriced parts thats what you'll get, lol. I will say that I have read nothing but great stuff about this truck on the forums, and most of the problems are very small or cheap to fix. So I need to list some auctions, take some pics and clean out some old tool chests, saveup some cash and order my mgt. I will stop bugging you for your leftover parts now:) I might need some more advice though, scratch that, I will need more advice as I get this thing going b/c I have never even ran a nitro vehicle before. Do the rtr mgts have decent newb instructions? You know, the pamphlet you guys threw away without reading? Thanks again guys, Haggard26mgt

[Cotharyus]

Actually, the truck has great instructions with it - I kept mine for the parts list in the back. Keep in mind that with all that machine equipment, you could potentially build your own parts. If you *do* sell any of it, I would be interested in knowing what you're selling, and how much you want for it.

[haggard26mgt]

Hey all- just came in from the garage for the night. So far in the to be sold box I only have a few things: 2 starrett micrometers 2-3" a whole assortment of thread taps (all over 1") an entire rubbermaid box of them:) and a few other odds and ends. my dad ran a 20 some foot long lathe, so alot of the tools are either from that machine or just plain too big to be of any use to me. I did find alot of useful things though. Your comment about making my own parts- NOW you're thinking on old Haggards level, lol. Really though, I would at very least need a milling machine, which as you may know would cost about 500 or so monster gt's:) I do have access to a fully set up machine shop locally and am in tight with the owner there, so that may be something to look into. I used to be the shop monkey there, and is the only job I've ever had where I can go back if times get tuff enough. He sponsors a couple asphalt stock cars, he likes racing and cars.. His son actually just sold a grand cherokee that was converted into a rock crawler, which is sort of how I became interested in these rc trucks. rockcrawlers arent cheap to build full scale. Are there any hop ups you guys want that just plain aren't out there? I ask b/c maybe I can get old Boyd(shop owner) to prototype up some parts. I know he can work with stainless steel and aluminum- not sure on titanium- I'd have to ask him. Anyway- I will post a list of what I have to sell when I'm done going through the rest of it. I'm taking it slow, this was my dads stuff and he's gone so I don't want to get rid of anything I'd regret. like I said though alot of it goes to a machine I have only laid eyes on a few times so maybe someone can use it, lord knows I could use the garage space:) BTW- living in idustrialized south chicagoland does have some advantages, I guess. We have a local place around called griffin, they supply aluminum tubing and plate. And sell to the public- Maybe I'll just design my own 33cc powered beast at 1/5th scale and call it good. Fun to think about, alot easier just to buy one:) later guys!

[Cotharyus]

It sounds like your dad did some serious machining. I will point out to you that you can get a good mill large enough to make almost any part for the MGT for about $1500.

[haggard26mgt]

Hmm- ok so not 500 mgts, but still a little chunk of bread. Yeah he made alot of shafts for large ventilation systems, I remeber him talking about that. I could prolly go use the mill at the local shop if I wanted to, but I'd more than likely have to do some grunt work in return. Also, all the tooling in the world doesn't mean squat if, like me, you weren't trained to run the machine. I got my chassis and skids in the mail today and a battery box, stuff looks to be pretty rugged. I think the best thing I can do is just wait till I got the $ and buy a rtr, I'm too new to this hobby to do this piece by piece and make it right the first time. I am keeping my eyes open for a good buy on one that I feel is a safe place to order from. Then after I have the whole truck maybe I'll use what I have to make a basher my friends can drive or something. we'll see...

[Cotharyus]

The best prices you'll usually find are at Ultimate Hobbies for kits and RTR's:

http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//p584.html

[Cotharyus]

Call me stupid, but has anyone seen a small block conversion for this truck? I mean - as well as this truck runs with the RG in it, if you look at the numbers on the OS .18 tz - it has more hp, more torque, and turns more rpms. Shouldn't it work *better* than the RG, or ....am I just stupid?

[fezzy]

Things is smallblocks physically don't have the displacement needed to push the weight of the MGT, For instance my OS 18TM in my Revo is a very fast engine, But it just doesn't have the grunt of a big block, But with the Revo its so light that it doesn't matter, But in a MGT I think it'd struggle. It would be interesting though.

[Monsterbrad]

I have to say that this truck needs a BB cause of its size!
The extra torque is needed.
This thing by far is the best truck out of all that I have owned!
Just fun and tough :)

[Saboteur]

I doubt the .18TZ would struggle in a MGT. Take a look at the TT .21. It's weaker than the OS.21 RG without a doubt, but the way the drivetrain is setup it puts the MGT around quite fast for a big truck. The TZ would surely haul it around much better especially making nearly 2.3HP and capable of maintaining over 1HP around the 37000+ range and higher.

[timberwolf211]

Has anyone had their TTR .21 ported yet? and if so how is it running?

[Monsterbrad]

Porting might make a little difference but displacement is where it is at :)
The stock engine runs great
going to make a nice snow engine for the winter again!
till then the Mach is going to be cool just have to re gear a little cause it's all low end right now!
wheelie big time

[metalry101]

Displacement doesn't make nearly the difference that porting makes. Look at the TT .21. 1.9 horsepower or something. Look at the top-rung O.S. .21 buggy engine. That probably puts out 3.2 horsepower or something, and it's still a .21. The difference is in the porting, not the size. Same thing with something like a Force .26, Mach .26, and Picco .26. They're all the same size, but a Mach will outrun a Force, and Picco will dust both easily. Materials, design, porting, all of it makes more of a difference than displacement. That O.S. .18 TZ is a perfect example. There isn't a doubt in my mind that an .18 TZ powered MGT (if you could figure out a way to get it in the truck) would outrun a stocker. I'd bet it would outrun a Force .26 powered MGT too. Design is key...and the TT .21 was not designed for power, it was designed for low cost and reliability.

[fuzzy2133]

I think the OS .18 could work in the MGT if it has the torque to get the truck moving (I do not know the spec's). HP is no good when there is not enough torque to get all the parts moving. some might say just adjust the clutch so it engages later however then you are just giving all the parts including the engine a good shock when the clutch ingages. my $0.02

[astainback]

MGT problems...

Yesterday was a great day for bashing, and we did just that for quite a while.

My roommate's MGT blew a diff I think. He was getting power to the back tires, and the drive shaft up front is spinning with the engine, but the tires in the front will sping freely. Am I right about the diff?? Also, His truck doesn't seem to be shifting. How can I tell if it is or is not shifting properly??

thanks,
adrian

[TJNMT]

Might want to check your diff pins first, to see if there still there.

[Monsterbrad]

I lost the drive pin through the drive cup on the tranny.
causes the same problem no rear wheel drive or vise versa!
Check that though!

[jedimac]

I've been racing the MGT for over a year now and have done very well with it,
I have one kept stock for the stock class and I have one set up for the unlimited class, I was told by most racers at my local track that I didn't have a chance with the MGT and that the savage would cream me, well I prove them wrong, with the right set-up, I was able to dominate the savages and now have earned their respect, the stock class I do ok sometimes, but in the unlimited class is where I have dominated, so if someone ever tells you that the MGT doesn't have a chance against the other trucks in that class tell them to put their trucks where their mouth is. With the 3 tracks that I run at I have been able to make it to the winners circle 90% of the time. The equipment I run in my truck consists of a sirio 27xl race engine, proline powerstroke shocks, proline 40 series bowties tires, hardcore racing chassis, shock towers, and knuckles for strength, MIP cvds front and rear and centers, hitech digital servos, trinity monster fuel and various piece here and there to help with weight and strenght. This combination of trusted parts has helped me greatly, but you definately have to set it up right for it to work and most important of them all is be able to drive, haveing all the good stuff will not get you in the winners circle if you cannot drive. I thought I would share this with all of you, since I am a big fan and user of associated products when it comes to rc vehicles. Thank You for taking the time to read what i had to say.

[slaf]

Let's take my MGT.

Truck weight with Ofna/Picco engine installed -> 4900g (Ofna/Picco is 430g, never been dynoed but let says 2.5HP)

Truck weight with stock TTR .21 engine installed -> 4900g (Exactly the same weight as my Ofna/Picco, 430g, never been dynoed but let says 1.9HP)


Truck weight with OS .18TZ installed -> 4735g (OS .18TZ is 265g, dynoed @2.2HP)

The weight/hp ratio for the Ofna/Picco is 1hp:1960g
The weight/hp ratio for the OS .18TZ is 1hp:2152g
The weight/hp ratio for the stock .21 engine is 1hp:2579g

I'm not a math guru but for me the winner is the big block with descent HP.

This is just a "static" evaluation, gearing, power and torque curves, driver, track layout and many others factors can change this calculation !

[Chevy-SS]

I've been racing the MGT for over a year now and have done very well with it,.............This combination of trusted parts has helped me greatly, but you definately have to set it up right for it to work ...........
jedi, thanks for sharing this. Like you, I have a couple of MGT racers. I just bought two sets of Powerstroke shocks and I was wondering what setup you are using on the shocks. Springs, pistons and oils?

You are right on the money about needing to have the correct setup PLUS the ability to drive.

:)

[Cotharyus]

Well, I went to the track this weekend, and finished a strong 6th (out of 10 in the A). It's not quite up to par with my usual placing, but:

On lap 6 Mr. Revo tried to put the pass on me in mid air. It would have worked out for him too, if he hadn't tried to pass *through* my truck while doing it. He hit the back of my truck so hard in the air, that it broke his front suspension link. I knocked the cap off of one of my right rear shocks, and I knew it had done that, but I didn't know it had broken my shock tower on that side as well - anyhow, in a 15 minute heat, I ran 26 laps to take 6th place. Not bad for 20 laps with a busted truck.

It's also worth noting, that this is the most major damage I have had happen during a race - but you have to think, that revo hit me so hard it *broke* his metal suspension link.

[Monsterbrad]

All I can say is landing this truck from 7 ft in the air upside down and breaking the motor mount only is very impressive!
Other than that this truck is very tough.
Just needs stiffer springs and it would be great all around basher but I am still amazed at how tough this thing is!

[slaf]

Coth -> I always knew that MGT was tougher than Revo :)

After 3 gallon, I just broke minor parts.

My brother-in-law hit a post at full speed. He broke nothing but he did a wonderful 900 degree turn !!!

[Monsterbrad]

Well its been about a week now!
Time to fire the truck up for a bash session
tomorrow night I hope

[Cotharyus]

Slaf - there was never any doubt in my mind that it was tougher. Thats the second or third time he's it me on that jump, and it did nothing more than upset my truck in the air, and took him out of the race. You'd think he'd learn. I hate to admit it, but he was lapping me every time he's done this so far, and could quite litterally have walked away with the race every time, baring any such unfortunate events... :)

[slaf]

Coth -> He should have learned that this is not the best place to pass you. Did you do any new mod on your MGT ? Did you install your Losi tires ?

[slaf]

Do you guys remember when I decided to buy a Blue bird steering servo ??

I ran this servo for about 10-15 tanks when I noticed that the servo was going crazy and made my throttle servo going the same when my humppack was near low. In fact, I was not able to control my truck and my failsafe had not realized that my humppack was low.

It looks like the steering servo cut off before my failsafe. I tested with another failsafe and I had the same result.

I removed the blue bird servo and reinstalled my stock steering servo. Now everything runs normaly, failsafe shut off electronic before the steering servo starts to turn from right to left....

Conclusion of this story.....NEVER buy cheap servo again :)

[Saboteur]

Blue bird servos?:confused:

[Cotharyus]

Uh huh. I think I said when you bought that servo that I wished you had asked before you bought it - so now everyone else can take advice from both of us. Skip it. Spend your money on better servos.

[4DMNYC]

Sup peeps,
I just added an MGT to my fleet this past weekend. I did some graphics for a freind and my payment was his MGT. The engine only has 10 tanks through it but I wanted to know what is the most logical replacement engine for the MGT for good power and price that would drop right in, also..if there is an engine that alot of you are using that you think works well but you had to do some mods to get it to fit, what is it, and what mods?
This was probaly mentioned already but I didn't feel like searching through 90 pages of thread. :p

thanks

[slaf]

Uh huh. I think I said when you bought that servo that I wished you had asked before you bought it - so now everyone else can take advice from both of us. Skip it. Spend your money on better servos.


Any good Airtronics servo you can suggest me ?

[kurrz]

Hey guys does any body else have the Fantom pipe made for the MGT? Just have a fitment question and also should there be any amount of space between the pipe and header thanks.

[slaf]

Hey guys does any body else have the Fantom pipe made for the MGT? Just have a fitment question and also should there be any amount of space between the pipe and header thanks.


Did you install the pipe on the side or on the rear ?

I installed mine on the side, I had a 3/16" gap between the header and the pipe. Few people cut 1/4" on the header to have more room to adjuste the pipe.

[slaf]

Just a question like that...


How long do your skid plates last?


I went to a BMX track, there were alot of little rocks and I destroyed my skid plate in 5 tanks...:(

[Monsterbrad]

I have not had any problems with mine just scratched up pretty good!
Broken front bumper though pretty badly but thats what they are there for!

[kurrz]

I installed it on the rear thinking it was a direct replacement it fits ok and the pipe woke the engine up. I only got one tank through it before I broke the servo saver. Should I mount it on the side and move the pipe bracket? Also there is no room between the pipe and header now.

[Cotharyus]

4MDNYC - Engines? I'll say the OS RGX .21 all day long. I've put many a hurting on trucks running much larger and more expensive engines at the track with the RG in my MGT, and people here will tell you how much I've run it, and how long it's lasted. Plus I don't remember the last time it flamed out. It's just dead reliable.

Slaf - Servos. Airtronics? Now you're on the right track. The best steering servo on the market, bar none, is the 94359. It may be cheaper for you to buy a 94358 and get a 359 gearset though. The two servos are basicly the same, except the 358 has one nylon gear in it, and the 359 replaces that gear with a metal one (so it's full metal) and has a heat sink in the case. A little expensive? Yes. Worth it? You bet!

Skids. I'm still using my stock skids. They are showing some wear. Specificly, the front skid is slightly bent in one place, and there are a lot of scratches on my skids. I'm about to pull all of the screws out and replace them just so that the hex socket in the head doesn't get too shallow. The skids get a real workout at my track, but there aren't so many rocks.

[Saboteur]

Hate to rag on, but there were times my Picco .26 were reliable than my friend's OS .21RG. Eh, could be his tuning skills, because pretty much I'll own the same engine and it will run better in my hands than his. :) Been thinking if I see an upgraded MGT with FOC for sale I may buy one. Decisions decisions.

[4DMNYC]

Dose the Picco need mods to fit into the MGT?

[slaf]

Dose the Picco need mods to fit into the MGT?

You just need a longer throtle rod

[Saboteur]

I fit the stock rod to work perfect. Just depends on servo arm position. Lemme see if I still have a picture.

[MikeWz]

Okay....been having a bit of trouble with my MGT. I was MIA for a bit, as I was at school and left my truck at home for the last few months, so I wouldn't be distracted from tests. Two days ago was the first time I've run it in a few months. Ran it Tuesday, Wednesday, and today. Today I was at the track. Noticed my truck wouldn't really turn to the left. I check to make sure the rod wasn't hitting the front diff, and it's not. I think the problem is they way my servo saver is set up....or maybe something else :confused: . If I remember right, when the servo was in neutral position, and when my wheels where dead straight, the servo saver was pretty much facing forward. I've taken it apart a few times since I got the truck, and I may have put something on wrong because not it points pretty hardcore to the left (when you point the front wheels up in the air and look at the bottom of the chassis). So what happens is, when I go to turn right it pulls correctly on the pushrod (on the bellcrank) and will turn to the right. However, when I try to turn the the left, it just moves the pushrod up and down instead of pushing it in (it's hard to describe via keyboard, try looking at your truck and you'll see what I'm talking about). Any idea what could be messed up? If I try to take the servo saver off, and point it straight foward, the wheels turn pretty far to the right.
Also, my engine's been acting funny. It winds down pretty slowly. In my experiences, this is usually because the low-end is lean. Well, I know it's pretty rich now, because I can see enough smoke coming out, and the performance off the line is pretty bad, and it still does it. It did it all the way from the original setting, to the ultra rich setting. I'm pretty confused, because I've been tuning these engines for 10ish years, and really haven't had a problem I couldn't figure out, but this one's got me pretty stumped. Maybe I manage to get water in the carb or something.

[Cotharyus]

Mike - check and make sure *all four* screws are still in the bell crank. I've had them fall out before while racing, and it turns fine one way, and not at all the other.

On that engine thing, I'd take a look at your clutch / clutch bearings. Make sure that everything looks like it should when the truck is free rolling. If everything looks good, make sure you don't have any air leaks. Baring that, how many gallons have you got on the engine? It could be saying bye-bye.

[MikeWz]

Man...that engine can't die yet!!! I need a job first :( . It's only got about 2 gallons through it, and other than 3-4 tanks, it's all bash settings. I mean, it definitely could be dying, but I feel like that'd be unusual.

Also - when running a 4 shock set-up, do you still use the same screw on top? Just looking at it, I don't think the nut would hold it without it being able to move

[Cotharyus]

Mike - I scratched the 4 shock setup months ago. But for the record, use the busings that come with the set of shocks the mount closest to the nut, and mount the shocks on the nut end of the screw. It will hold everything just fine.

[astainback]

FOC or no FOC...

that is the question of today.

I got a Craftsman Air Compressor yesterday. I have been wanting one of these for quite a while. 1.5 hp and 125 psi w/ 3 gallon tank. Sweet.
Also, earlier this week, I picked up a JR XS3pro and an extra JR 310 receiver for it. One of them is for the MGT, the other for a NTC3.

Let me know about the FOC.

thanks,
adrian

[TJNMT]

Do you race with the MGT, as in all out or just bash with it?

[slaf]

FOC or no FOC...

that is the question of today.

I got a Craftsman Air Compressor yesterday. I have been wanting one of these for quite a while. 1.5 hp and 125 psi w/ 3 gallon tank. Sweet.
Also, earlier this week, I picked up a JR XS3pro and an extra JR 310 receiver for it. One of them is for the MGT, the other for a NTC3.

Let me know about the FOC.

thanks,
adrian

If you can live without the reverse, I'll go with the FOC ! This will reduce the amount of rotating mass in the tranny which means more acceleration. This will also remove extra weight (all gears and reverse servo) 7.75oz (220g) which also means more acceleration....

I never ran my MGT with the reverse installed.

[Saboteur]

.

I never ran my MGT with the reverse installed.

I never ran my MGT with FOC installed. Damned thread lock :(

[slaf]

I never ran my MGT with FOC installed. Damned thread lock :(


What will you do with your MGT ?

[Saboteur]

Well I figured shipping in the US is cheaper canada. So I guess I'll just drop the price now down to $140 with radio gear, engine, and I may include the body. That way for shipping to Canada it may cost around $20+ so it will be around the original asking price of $170. I'm still waiting on buying the Ofna extension axles to widen my 8th buggy-they are still on backorder. I guess I may just get more upgrades for the R40 and sell the MGT and TL01 RTR. Infact, right now I have better luck running the R40 than ANY other of my RC's, except the elec. The R40 outlasts the elec on a single tank verses the elec with either stock or modified motor.

[astainback]

My roommate pulled his front diff out and we found out that it was not trashed, but the drive cup pin was missing. I read on this thread somewhere that this is an issue, so I have 4 more pins on the way. THREADLOCK!!!

Also, I think I remember reading on here that someone was having a problem with the truck not wanting to shift to 2nd gear, or sticking in second. I think my roommate's truck is doing this. His rubber plug for the transmission keeps popping off, and I guess it is possible that dirt got in it but i am not sure. Has anyone else had this problem?

thanks,
adrian

[Cotharyus]

I've not had any problem with the truck not shifting. But the drive cup pins are a pain. As for the rubber plug on the tranny, I was never able to keep mine in. I eventually went to using some stickers I had here to cover the holes in the tranny. They adhere really well, they were leftovers from when I used to match batteries, so they were designed to stick for a long time.