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thedarkness
07-11-2005, 03:27 AM
Sound like you have a diff in upside down, grab both front tires, and rotate them wich way do the back tires spin?
EDIT just seen you noted wich way was up I would look at your ring and pinnion mesh on the diff.

poncho
07-11-2005, 04:32 AM
Just received my new Vantage carbon fiber chassis and, while I was installing my Revo components, I noiced my front diff was leaking. Instead of using Traxxas' 5381 plasic diff carrier, I purchased 2 - "Hot Racing" all metal diff carriers and installed them in the original housing covers (facing up as noted on the housing). I used 7,000 diff fluid in the front and 10,000 diff fluid in the rear.

Now, when the Revo is off of the ground, if the right tire is turned clockwise, the left rotates in the opposite direction - is this how a diff is supposed to function? Also, when the Revo is on the ground it won't "roll"...

Any suggestions?

Thanks!!!
I did the same thing the first time I pulled my front and rear diffs out. Ok the problem is your front and rear diff have to be opposite of each other. If you look at your revo from the rear the diff housing has a arrow and the word "up". On mine that is the right side. The front has to have the arrow and the word "up" on the opposite side. See picture. Poncho

GTX
07-12-2005, 02:53 AM
Hey guys,

I got hooked onto the racing scene again the other night and I'm looking into a Revo. What kind of problems do they have in stock form? The one I'm buying is brand new but without radio, so that will be the first upgrade. I'll probably upgrade to 40 series Wablash wheels with Bowties and Dace 23mm adapters (better than PL).

Also, the EZ Start will be gone before the first pull too, but I'm wondering if anyone makes a Roto Start for it? I haven't been into RC for about 2 years so I'm a little behind, haha. Any help would be great, thanks!

-GTX

johannsy
07-12-2005, 04:34 AM
Hey guys,

I got hooked onto the racing scene again the other night and I'm looking into a Revo. What kind of problems do they have in stock form? The one I'm buying is brand new but without radio, so that will be the first upgrade. I'll probably upgrade to 40 series Wablash wheels with Bowties and Dace 23mm adapters (better than PL).

Also, the EZ Start will be gone before the first pull too, but I'm wondering if anyone makes a Roto Start for it? I haven't been into RC for about 2 years so I'm a little behind, haha. Any help would be great, thanks!

-GTX
try hpi rotor start it will fit

Ball Racing
07-12-2005, 06:37 PM
HPI fits the revo backing plate, but make sure to get the gear that will fit the traxxas one way, or try a HPI one way bearing...

t9dragon
07-12-2005, 06:40 PM
What is everybody using for their steering servo?

Ball Racing
07-12-2005, 09:18 PM
I used a JR 650
So many people say use a HiTec 645, but they are slower, and glitchy, well they don't glitch but they are not 100% smooth in transit, and don't alwys center as good as JR.

poncho
07-12-2005, 09:47 PM
Airtronics 94359 200oz torque

thedarkness
07-12-2005, 09:56 PM
I use a hitec 5645 works good and got it for $55can

losi racer13
07-13-2005, 12:36 AM
i just fixed my revo. i had to buy a header and i also got some stuff done to it. i love the revo now, i just put a 645mg servo in it, and a motor savers airfilter, and a 590m throttle servo

Skribble
07-13-2005, 02:44 AM
What is everybody using for their steering servo?Single JR Z8800T. 180oz of torque, .15sec transit speed. No problems turning on a tight track w/ 40 Series .. [dremeled steering stops and various areas]

T-EVO RACER
07-13-2005, 10:23 AM
woo .. Got my 23MM MAXX Velocity Dish rims. Freakin' shop sold the last pair of Pro-Line 23MM hexes though, and I'm still waiting for the Crime Fighters to be released.
me too, those crme fighters look so tight!

losi racer13
07-13-2005, 11:12 PM
where do u guys find ur carbon fiber battery holder things and servo holder things?

poncho
07-13-2005, 11:48 PM
where do u guys find ur carbon fiber battery holder things and servo holder things?
click on this link http://www.xtremercracing.com/Xtreme_Carbon_Fiber_Products.cfm

oggydog
07-14-2005, 01:38 AM
Does anyone use the os .18tm or do you all use the tz. How good is the tm I plan on doing an engine swap later and wanted to know some input before I get one what does the tz require to bolt into the revo.I wanted to keep the ez start I like it.but it won't work on the tz well I don't think it will let me know if it does. I could use a bump start but getting expensive.I guess the tm is the best for me wish they made a tzm :D same as a tz but drops right in. :confused:

losi racer13
07-14-2005, 03:17 AM
u can use the tz, but ull have to get starterbox, or u can get a tz and buy the tm crank shaft then use ur ezstart on it. I seen some tm's run and they run amazing so im also thinking about getting one.

Stix
07-14-2005, 10:56 PM
howdy all, been a while since i've posted, the revo is runnin great, and have only had a few problems. first was a bent pushrod, so i got the red aluminum ones. broke a rear lower suspension arm, no problem, got an RPM arm there now, just need the other 3 corners to match that one :D now, i got a stripped output gear in the rear diff...yay i noticed it at the LHS track, it acted like it didn't have any power, but i finally noticed that the front tires were spinnin and ballooning, but the rears weren't even kickin any dirt. as i brought it closer, i heard clicking out of the rear end. well, when i got home, i tore into the rear (disassembling more than i had to i think :o) i cracked open the diff and the fluid in there was a shiny black with metal flakes. it wasn't until today when i pulled the output shafts out that i found that the shaft on the side opposite of the ring gear was totally stripped out. :mad:
oh well. the only problem is, is that my usual hobby shop doesn't have any of the internal gears for the diffs, all he has is the ring and pinion replacement parts. i'll have to have my wife check at the other hobby shop to see if they have them, if not, i'll have to go thru Traxxas, but is the diffs covered by the warranty? i haven't abused the truck (the body looks like crap though :o )
Stix

longcaceres
07-15-2005, 04:33 PM
I have a picco .26max, i'm looking for the best pipe for it?

longcaceres
07-15-2005, 04:41 PM
I am also looking for a nice wing. any suggestions?

Skribble
07-15-2005, 04:55 PM
me too, those crme fighters look so tight!I'm hoping they hook up on my track. Bow Ties and Pythons work [Mr. Burns voice here]exxccccellent[/Mr. Burns voice here] though.

Anyone try the THS pipe on their Revo? I have a couple dents and bends in my header, and a brand new header is $20. Might as well upgrade to a new pipe. I've heard the THS has a lot of bottom end and then another person said it had none, along with it's slightly quieter than the Trinity pipe. Choosing between the Trinity and THS since they'res only a $3.00 difference.

oggydog
07-16-2005, 03:59 AM
u can use the tz, but ull have to get starterbox, or u can get a tz and buy the tm crank shaft then use ur ezstart on it. I seen some tm's run and they run amazing so im also thinking about getting one.
will the tm pull the front wheels :) .I seen a sick video from airmaxx23 he was using the tz and pulling the front way easy and back flipping the thing like a gymnast :eek: I gave him a 10.I thought of a different pipe for the 2.5R but I don't want to waste any money for torque and lose topend.I like the gearing the way it is and I changed the suspension to the stardard race setup so I need your input you seen the tm in action what is your opinion?

oggydog
07-16-2005, 08:39 PM
well I could not wait so I got the O.S. .18TM on the way from towerhobbies with a free flashpoint temp gauge and 3 easy payments now I can not wait to get it.I Thought about waiting till the 2.5R dies but I don't think I can wait cause I only have 1 gallon through the 2.5R probably a lot of life left so I'll keep it as a back up..

oggydog
07-17-2005, 11:17 PM
Anything I should look out for when I put in the O.S .18tm ? Got a new roller clutch on the way just in case I plan on cleaning the one in it now and oiling it.

losi racer13
07-17-2005, 11:36 PM
the tm has plenty of power, its a really good engine. good choice. thats my next engine after this 2.5 dies. I seen some revos racing with tm engines in them and boy do they haul.

losi racer13
07-17-2005, 11:39 PM
Thanks for the link poncho.

oggydog
07-18-2005, 12:46 AM
If I wanted to use a bump start on the .18TM instead of the ez-start what do I need to do?

toughtrax1
07-18-2005, 12:55 AM
You would need to get a non pull backplate. Also depending on what one you get you might need to grind the little pull start nub off of the crank

oggydog
07-18-2005, 01:14 AM
toughtrax do you think this will work O.S. Cover Plate .18TZ (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJPZ5&P=Z) I am not sure if it will fit I don't have the motor yet to measure it's still on the way from tower. I am a little worried of the one-way bearing I don't know if more power from the os will wear it out faster or not.I am pretty new to the nitro well I had a maximum st that made me shy away from nitro (I lost 50 pounds on the duratrax pull start diet :p ). Then I saw the e-z start a lot easier then ripping my guts out.Now I like the looks of the RD Racing's REVO Starter box, that beats pull starting and eliminates the e-z start and the one way bearing and cuts a lot of weight off the truck.

longcaceres
07-18-2005, 01:01 PM
Hey guys, pls help me. I have a picco max 26 for my revo, I am looking for the best pipe that I can use. Any suggestions? Also i need a wing, I want the easy to install kind of wing. Thanks. I will appreciate it.

toughtrax1
07-18-2005, 02:02 PM
Oggydog: Yes that backplate will work, if you get that one you will have to grind the little nub off the crank and will work just fine. I'll try to get a pic of a crank and the nub you have to grind off.

Longcaceres: From what I've seen and heard the trinity pipe would be the best pipe to run. I run it on my TZ and is the best one I have found yet, I would wait to see what happens with the Vantage pipe and see what some people have to say about that one also.

oggydog
07-19-2005, 12:42 AM
[QUOTE=toughtrax1]Oggydog: Yes that backplate will work, if you get that one you will have to grind the little nub off the crank and will work just fine. I'll try to get a pic of a crank and the nub you have to grind off.


o.s. got back with me and you are right the backplate will work and the nub will need to go they did not recommend grinding off the crank pin they gave me 3 crank options so not sure if I want to go that far changing or grinding I may send the motor back and get a O.S. .18 TZ TX w/Rotary Carb toughtrax1 is that the one you use and is it in a revo? what do you need to do for the rotary carb to work ?

Shocker
07-19-2005, 03:25 AM
toughtrax1 >>> A pic would be great if you can find one

toughtrax1
07-19-2005, 01:50 PM
These pics are not the greatest but I hope you get the idea. The first link you can see on the far right side the little nub I'm talking about. Then on the second link on the far right side you can see that the little nub is not. Again I hope this hleps if not let me know and I'll take a pic of my cranks and post them.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDGE9&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDGF0&P=0

longcaceres
07-19-2005, 08:05 PM
Oggydog: Yes that backplate will work, if you get that one you will have to grind the little nub off the crank and will work just fine. I'll try to get a pic of a crank and the nub you have to grind off.

Longcaceres: From what I've seen and heard the trinity pipe would be the best pipe to run. I run it on my TZ and is the best one I have found yet, I would wait to see what happens with the Vantage pipe and see what some people have to say about that one also.

toughtrax1: Thanks for the suggestion. I appreciate it. how about getting the "Wings"?

toughtrax1
07-19-2005, 08:42 PM
longcaceres thats a whole different subject send me a pm with what you want to know and we'll talk offline about it.

longcaceres
07-19-2005, 08:46 PM
longcaceres thats a whole different subject send me a pm with what you want to know and we'll talk offline about it.

Sorry, what I meant was a buggy wing, for the revo.

toughtrax1
07-19-2005, 09:11 PM
Here is a link to my next fav wing mount to get. Then for the wing all you would have to do is get any wing from GS in the color that you wanted.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=GSCST056

Here are a couple other things that will help you in makeing the wing flush
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSR48&P=7

All you have to do is put the wing mount together, Mark on the shock tower where the screws are going to go through, Drill the holes using a 1/8th inch drill bit get some long screws to go into and through the mount and your set. If you would like I could get all the part numbers to gether and send them your way.

GTX
07-20-2005, 01:16 AM
What's the best .21 conversion kit for the Revo?


With the Traxxas kit, can I use an AE .21 engine from the Monster GT? I really like this .21 engine and it's extremely easy to tune. My 2.5R is still fresh but I want to explore my options. Thanks!

thedarkness
07-20-2005, 01:54 AM
I dont think there is a .21 conversion that will fit the TTR .21 Sadly.The mounting holes are slightly closer together than most bigblocks.I belive the cheapest os.21 doesnt fit as well.

Jayweezy
07-20-2005, 02:05 AM
I don't think you can use the AE wit the Traxxas kit. It only works well (not much modification) with the Mach .26, O.S. .21 VZ-B, .21 and .26 Picco Maxx, Sirio .23, and Wasp .28 all of which have to be non pullstart, but you can use pretty much any non pull or pull start big block with the New Era conversion.The kit was designed to fit traditional O.S. type engines with SG crankshafts and no starter.

This is just my .02. You could buy two chassis and try to extend the rear of the Revo like I and another guy on the Traxxas forums is
http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=288391&perpage=30&pagenumber=2 If all works well any .21-.30 big block pullsart or not should work. Just have to get the clutch situation worked out.

thedarkness
07-20-2005, 02:25 AM
Build me one haha

Jayweezy
07-20-2005, 02:30 AM
I still gotta get mines going cause I suck at TIG welding.

Jayweezy
07-20-2005, 02:32 AM
and cutting.

BushPig
07-20-2005, 09:03 AM
Hi all,
If ya had $300, what would be the list of hop-ups from first to last???

Cheers

Bushy.

T-EVO RACER
07-20-2005, 09:46 AM
I'm hoping they hook up on my track. Bow Ties and Pythons work [Mr. Burns voice here]exxccccellent[/Mr. Burns voice here] though.

Anyone try the THS pipe on their Revo? I have a couple dents and bends in my header, and a brand new header is $20. Might as well upgrade to a new pipe. I've heard the THS has a lot of bottom end and then another person said it had none, along with it's slightly quieter than the Trinity pipe. Choosing between the Trinity and THS since they'res only a $3.00 difference.
DON'T GET TRINITY PIPE!!!! unless your deff!! the ths pipe, people say theres not much of a difference in power, but I run the rb pipe, (28 bux!! :) ) and it way faster, way snappier and extremely consistent tuning, I didn't have to touch my needles all race weekend!!! and it sounds great!

T-EVO RACER
07-20-2005, 09:58 AM
Hi all,
If ya had $300, what would be the list of hop-ups from first to last???

Cheers

Bushy.
thisis racing setup exceptfor #13 :p (you can't buy everything here with 300 dollars)
1. os 18 tm motor (200.00)
2. 40 series bowties(w/23mm hexes) (100.00-120.00) or panther pythons than go on stock wheels (50-60.00)
3. rb pipe (30.00)
4. p2 rockers (5-10 bux)
5. red pushrods (20.00)
6. crowdpleazer 2.0 (30.00)
7. orange and gold springs(cheap, they're just springs!)
8. mugen wing mount(11.00) wing(8.00)
9. better radio(100.00 to 300.00)
10. traxxas super shocks (40.00)
11. foc (not much)
12. better servos (0-200.00)
13. a bunch of titanium and aluminuim bull$hit(20.00-1000.00)

oggydog
07-20-2005, 12:29 PM
DON'T GET TRINITY PIPE!!!! unless your deff!! the ths pipe, people say theres not much of a difference in power, but I run the rb pipe, (28 bux!! :) ) and it way faster, way snappier and extremely consistent tuning, I didn't have to touch my needles all race weekend!!! and it sounds great!

Are you using the o.s. tm .18 with the rb pipe and which pipe did you get?

longcaceres
07-20-2005, 04:11 PM
Here is a link to my next fav wing mount to get. Then for the wing all you would have to do is get any wing from GS in the color that you wanted.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=GSCST056

Here are a couple other things that will help you in makeing the wing flush
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSR48&P=7

All you have to do is put the wing mount together, Mark on the shock tower where the screws are going to go through, Drill the holes using a 1/8th inch drill bit get some long screws to go into and through the mount and your set. If you would like I could get all the part numbers to gether and send them your way.

thoughtrax1: Thanks.

GTX
07-20-2005, 10:35 PM
I just put the 2nd tank on my 2.5R in my Revo. I did 1 tank idle and then started to do 1/2 throttle on the 2nd tank when the temps started getting to the 300s. Then they hit 330 and I turned it down another 1/4 turn to richen it up. I had already richened it on the first tank, so that's a whole 1/2 turn richer!

In the manual it says no more than 270* but I've heard these engines run hot. I had a 2.5 Maxx but I never checked the temp (ran it on performance). Is this normal? Will it "simmah down" or anything? Should I invest in an oversized cooling head??? I'm looking for a quick answer so I can finish the break in. Thanks for any and all help!!!


-GTX

losi racer13
07-21-2005, 12:41 PM
yea it should run hot when you first break it in. my friends did that and now his is getting cooler temps

T-EVO RACER
07-21-2005, 12:48 PM
Are you using the o.s. tm .18 with the rb pipe and which pipe did you get?
ya, im using the os18tm and the rb pipe, the pipe is called the rb/tm 01 I think, its black and long!

losi racer13
07-21-2005, 04:41 PM
black and long huh? haha jk

losi racer13
07-21-2005, 04:43 PM
does anyone know if i put a a big block converion on it and get like the max26 will the sliders get destroyed?

GTX
07-21-2005, 05:04 PM
How do you adjust the 2 speed on this thing? I've looked in the hole and sideways and it's hard as heck to see in there. Is it on the side or something? I don't have my Revo book so I don't know how to look it up!

nitro_newbie
07-21-2005, 11:15 PM
hey you revo dudes that dont race youre revo or just want something to do when race season is over this look like a cool thing to do or just to look at
http://www.traxxas.com/support/pub/revo_rock_crawler.htm
look at the video too this cool i might buy a revo too to add to my traxxas collection if it werent so expensive for a 16 year old :)
nitro_newbie:)

thedarkness
07-22-2005, 12:08 AM
Gtx you can download the revo manual here http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/revo/blueprints/040428%20Revo-Manual.pdf (right click save as 4.7mb)
heres a link to the exploded views
http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/revo/trx_revo_views.htm

and resorces
http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/revo/trx_revo_resources.htm

losi racer13
07-22-2005, 12:24 AM
Yeah i got the lt on mine and it helps alot.

GTX
07-22-2005, 02:07 AM
I got it all figured out and shifting within 10 minutes of reading the manual. :D


Now I just need to work on keeping my temps down. In break in, the temps flared above the 270* limit that Traxxas uses as a standard. I had to richen it up a bit to get them down but even on the 6th tank they started to go up again. I'm going to return it to the stock settings and start leaning it out a little depending on performance. The 2.5 is a finicky engine, but it's a good all around mill.

thedarkness
07-22-2005, 04:16 AM
You might want to pick up a few tank rebuild kits, and stuff another o ring in the upper lip of the cap as well as use a little rtv to "glue" the other oring in its intended possition

T-EVO RACER
07-22-2005, 01:32 PM
black and long huh? haha jk
you little pervert, lol

EvaderSTKid
07-26-2005, 07:49 PM
Ok is it normal for the engine to lean out and start to get hot when there low fuel in the tank?

thedarkness
07-26-2005, 08:06 PM
The tank is rather small for a seroius half tank lean I would look at your tank seals and fuel lines.

Rigas
07-26-2005, 09:55 PM
I have gotten my Revo just about ready for the Pro Series Races.

Here is what I have done so far. Let me know what you think.

FOC
Single Servo
MIP Shiny Center CVDs
T-Bonz CVDs
OS .18TM
23MM Hex hubs
One Piece Aluminum Skid Plate
Close gear Ratio
Motor Saver Air Filter
RPM A-Arms
Aluminum Pushrods
P2 Rockers
GTR Shocks
Spyder Fuel Tank Mod
Reciever and Throttle Servo Boxs removed.


Soon to come

Lungsford Ti Turnbuckles
Titanium Pillow Balls

GTX
07-27-2005, 01:41 AM
Looks good so far man...

I found out why my 2.5R was running so hot - the base settings on the HSN (4T out) are way off. I had to richen it about a turn and a half just to get the temps to where they should be. I also ordered a ACNCM head for the 2.5, should help with the temps down here. I'm doing an assortment of other mods too, I'll post up some pics when done.

Skribble
07-27-2005, 01:49 AM
I have gotten my Revo just about ready for the Pro Series Races.

Here is what I have done so far. Let me know what you think.

FOC
Single Servo
MIP Shiny Center CVDs
T-Bonz CVDs
OS .18TM
23MM Hex hubs
One Piece Aluminum Skid Plate
Close gear Ratio
Motor Saver Air Filter
RPM A-Arms
Aluminum Pushrods
P2 Rockers
GTR Shocks
Spyder Fuel Tank Mod
Reciever and Throttle Servo Boxs removed.


Soon to come

Lungsford Ti Turnbuckles
Titanium Pillow BallsYou have any problems with the CVDs yet?

Rigas
07-27-2005, 09:58 AM
No I havent. They seem to be doing great. Have you had problems with the T-Bonz or just CVDs in general?

Marty

longcaceres
07-27-2005, 12:00 PM
I have gotten my Revo just about ready for the Pro Series Races.

Here is what I have done so far. Let me know what you think.

FOC
Single Servo
MIP Shiny Center CVDs
T-Bonz CVDs
OS .18TM
23MM Hex hubs
One Piece Aluminum Skid Plate
Close gear Ratio
Motor Saver Air Filter
RPM A-Arms
Aluminum Pushrods
P2 Rockers
GTR Shocks
Spyder Fuel Tank Mod
Reciever and Throttle Servo Boxs removed.


Soon to come

Lungsford Ti Turnbuckles
Titanium Pillow Balls
Rigas: where did you buy the spider fuel mod?

GTX
07-27-2005, 01:42 PM
He bought a tank and put it on there. Most likely ebay...

Rigas
07-27-2005, 10:39 PM
I bought the fuel tank from my LHS and modded the chassis to allow the tank to be installed. There are a few ways to do it depending on how you mount your battery pack. It really is an easy mod.. The setup works great. My run time with this tank is about 13-15 minutes were as I was getting about 8 with the stock tank. Plus is fills from the top which is better,, and most importantly,,, no stupid O-Ring to deal with.. :)

T-EVO RACER
07-30-2005, 11:25 AM
I bought the fuel tank from my LHS and modded the chassis to allow the tank to be installed. There are a few ways to do it depending on how you mount your battery pack. It really is an easy mod.. The setup works great. My run time with this tank is about 13-15 minutes were as I was getting about 8 with the stock tank. Plus is fills from the top which is better,, and most importantly,,, no stupid O-Ring to deal with.. :)
does it lean out or heat up at the end of the tank?

GTX
07-30-2005, 07:24 PM
Does anyone else have a problem breaking engine mounts? Maybe I just got a fluke or a bad landing, but one of the support mounts broke. It was still holding, but it came off when I tore the truck down.

I was looking at the 3 Racing engine mount. All CNC, looks very nice. At $35, I'd rather get this than waste money on another stocker that might break. I'm only on my 10th tank and this is my carnage list (I went over a large jump....4 times :D)

Broke front bulkheads under the diff
engine mount
steering arm brace

I'm also de-annodizing everything. I just started the chassis, it's almost done. I already did everything else. I bought a lot of stuff for the Revo and should have a nice little update of parts.

Rigas
07-31-2005, 01:09 AM
does it lean out or heat up at the end of the tank?

Not anymore than the stock does. My .18 heats up to about 250 and tank end.. Normally my temps are 230 - 240

Marty

T-EVO RACER
08-01-2005, 04:14 PM
thanks i might do dat mod

BushPig
08-03-2005, 07:05 AM
Hi all,
just a couple of Q's for you all,

when I run my REVO and then stop it, the rev's start to clime. Is that normal?
If not how do I fix it.

Is there any 'running' differences between medium and hot plugs?

When I take the plug out of my truck and look down at the top of the piston head, it looks a little brownish. Is that normal?

Cheers boys and girls.

BushPig

GTX
08-03-2005, 02:56 PM
A1: No, it's not supposed to climb, but that is normal. Is it running correctly, no bogging? Is it shifting into 2nd gear? You can adjust the idle speed needle, that will help.

Medium and hot plugs - yes, they are for different temperatures. I know of an article that explains this real well, I'll see if I can find it.

Yes, the piston head is supposed to be "brownish". Remember, there are thousands of explosions in your cylinder head and combustion chamber, so that's why it's browning. Black, however, means you're running your engine lean and you need to richen it up on the high speed needle.

BushPig
08-03-2005, 08:19 PM
Good info as per-usual. Thanks a heap!!!

Bushy

PS. What is everyone using when they ditch the EZ Start. I'm lookin at something like a rota start not a box.

Cheers.

losi racer13
08-04-2005, 03:19 AM
The HPI roto start works awesome! I got it on mine and it's a direct bolt on besides the roto start screws dont fit the motor plate so u gotta use the stock ones and tap them through the roto start, but other then that it works alot better. Another way is to go pull start, i dont like it but its another way around the ez start.

BushPig
08-04-2005, 06:09 AM
The HPI roto start works awesome! I got it on mine and it's a direct bolt on besides the roto start screws dont fit the motor plate so u gotta use the stock ones and tap them through the roto start, but other then that it works alot better. Another way is to go pull start, i dont like it but its another way around the ez start.

Nah! I've seen my mates struggle with the pull start...... I mean they're ok.. to a point!! The HPI is the most recognized but don't Ofna do one to that is a straight fit bolt on??
Man I wish the Australian shop had as many parts at hand as you guys seem to have in the US.
If that was the case, then I wouldn't have to pester the sh*t out of you guys every time my REVO farts in the wrong direction!!!!

Any how, cant wait to get this FOC & roto start fitted a!!

Cheers & beers from the dark side of the world!

BushPig

oggydog
08-07-2005, 03:06 AM
What is the temp range one the os .18tm ?

GTX
08-07-2005, 09:07 PM
Here's a bunch of pics of my Revo. I've done quite a few mods to it since I got it last month...

If you have any questions, just ask.

New body-

Posin'
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1046.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1047.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1048.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1049.jpg

GTX
08-07-2005, 09:12 PM
I have high rez photos if you guys want them. I'm using them for backgrounds :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1050.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1051.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1054.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1055.jpg

GTX
08-07-2005, 09:17 PM
Another angle...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1056.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1057.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1058.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1059.jpg

oggydog
08-08-2005, 01:12 PM
I got the temps around 220 runs good, idles smooth and after it warms it likes to wheelie I am over all pleased with the os .18tm lot more snap then the 2.5R.
I liked the stock pipe but wanted to try something new so I got the vantage carbon fiber pipe looks sweet and is a little louder then the stock pipe.

T-EVO RACER
08-08-2005, 11:08 PM
anybody go to the rcproseries west out in hemet at THE DIRT last weekend?

chrisoneal
08-09-2005, 06:23 PM
ok this ? is kinda out there but will the revo spring retaners work on the jato. Just woundering b/c my lhs dont have them for the jato but have the revo ones

losi racer13
08-09-2005, 06:37 PM
let me check my bros jato..

losi racer13
08-09-2005, 06:41 PM
yes the jato ones will work.

chrisoneal
08-09-2005, 08:59 PM
ok so that part will fit on both....thanks for the info guys

thomas98520
08-11-2005, 12:18 AM
this looks like a good place to ask this, please help if you can..

a couple weeks ago i put a os 18 in my revo and the manifold it came with fits and all, but i have to have the pipe slanted over the body of the car which is really annoying and looks like crap..and my stock manifold doesnt fit on the engine.

so basically my question is this.. I want the pipe to sit in the back like its suppose to so can someone link me or tell me exactly what kind of manifold i need please, it would be a great help to a rc noob like myself

thanks.

Skribble
08-11-2005, 02:22 AM
Anyone know if the OS Revo manifold will fit the 2.5R?

GTX
08-14-2005, 09:48 PM
I think it will Skribble. I wondered the same thing....when I still ran the 2.5R :p

Skribble
08-14-2005, 10:17 PM
Ha. I've asked two people at my LHS, and both said no. I'll take their word. I'm having one of them slightly mod my engine, nothing extreme, and I'm throwing on a backplate. Won't be able to run the truck until I buy a bumpstart.

I think I'm going to just buy the Big Block kit, and use the flywheel and header. The stock header + flywheel is $30, and the Big Block it is $40 .. Except, do you know if the BBK header will fit on the 2.5?

And damn, I just want to break down and buy a truggy.

GTX
08-15-2005, 02:15 AM
Eh, I've gone the truggy route. The Revo is the monster truck I've been waiting for, besides a SuperMaxx.


Adjustable suspension for jumping, racing, and street but only 4 shocks instead of 8. They come threaded and cost $8 to protect with socks. Good tranny, good design, basically everything that the T-Maxx wasn't (small block though). The drivetrain can take the abuse of more high power engines like a TZ or a mild big block and the plastic shafts actually hold up.

That, and the easy of maintenace is great. All the screws are hex type and everything is very advanced for it's time and field (RC). When I ran my Dom I loved the way it raced but never liked how I couldn't raise the suspension to bash. With the Revo, I can adjust it to whatever I want. That's what I love about this truck - adjustibility.


BTW, qoncepts makes that bendable exhaust manifold. Dunno if it will fit or is what you're lookin for. OS is coming out with a manifold to fit the 2.5R soon...

Skribble
08-15-2005, 04:38 PM
Nah, I don't want a bendable one.

And I don't bash, only race, but my track doesn't allow truggies -- So I'd have to drive down to Hot Rod Hobbies everytime I raced. :( I'd probably pick up a SUTce and throw on the Native Racing Tomahawk suspension kit.

I ordered some MIP shock bodies, and the packaging said Revo on them, but they were Mini-T/RC18T shocks, LOL. Hopefully their problems are fixed.

And Strobe made some pushrods and turnbuckles .. You going to get them?

And I'm bidding on a MBX-5 fuel tank/airfilter/fuelfilter .. Probably going to switch out the stock stank with the MBX-5 one.

thedarkness
08-15-2005, 06:10 PM
Why go CE and ruin it by putting one the $200+ tomahawk arms.Aldo from crispy critters has LSP arms and such on his SUTCE.Next year up in canada the truggies and the monsters are getting split, so I guess I will have 2 classes to run.

GTX
08-16-2005, 12:32 AM
I had good luck with the MBX4 tank on my Maxx when I still had it. Good tank.


Yeah I saw the Strobe things but I don't know if I'm gonna get them. Mostly weight savings with beefyness. And for $40 shipped for turnbuckles and pushrods....that's a steal! I think I might pick them up at the end of this week.

And yeah that SUT Tomahawk kit looks cool.

Skribble
08-16-2005, 02:15 AM
Yeah, I saw the SUTce with the LSP arms .. No Hot Bodies support around here though.

And the Strobe Pushrods and Pushrods are $40?

And check out this Brushless Revo .. Freakin' dope! G-Maxx single speed tranny, G-Maxx chassis, and some other stuff:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-4/1002367/E-Revo.jpg
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-4/1002367/E-Revo2.jpg
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-4/1002367/E-Revo3.jpg

dirtguy90
08-17-2005, 04:52 PM
hey, i have a t4 and want a lil more power and a lil more fun....i've been lookin at gettin a revo for a while and was wondering what you guyz think of it? is it worth buying for a newbie that's gonna be bashing and racing next year or the year after?
is the truck dependable and what else to i need to get the truck running?

GTX
08-20-2005, 09:40 AM
Yep, it's a great truck.


Dependable, cheap parts, customer support, etc. Box stock you'll need the 8 AA Batts, 7.2V charger for the 7.2V 6 cell sub c battery pack you need, fuel bottle, and gas.

FrostyBeers
08-22-2005, 09:05 PM
Talking about fuel,

what kind of fuel does this and other trucks and cars take ?

I'm new to RC stuff and just bought a plane, that uses CoolPower 10%, but I have a feeling we cannot use this in these trucks.

What DO you use ? and is the fuel much more expensive than airplanes ? ( I just have this sneaky feeling it is ) :(

Thanks for any info.

FrostyBeers
08-22-2005, 09:12 PM
Hi there, I didn't read about this feature on the Traxxas site, are you saying that this "OptiDrive" battery monitor is mounted on the truck ? Perhaps I'm misunderstanding what you are saying. I just bought a plane and bought a separate part that Hobbico makes, it's a tiny LED strip that shows the level of battery power left in the receiver / servo battery packs. Very important when flying, but for RC trucks etc I don't see it as necessary, but it's indeed a neat feature for sure that I wouldn't say no to.



I think this is getting overlooked as well...the electronics! Tells you when your batt is low? OptiDrive with all it's cool features. Hey, thumbs up traxxas...way to put some real technology into RC. See...it wasn't that costly. ;)

Skribble
08-23-2005, 02:39 AM
I'm running Sidewinder 30% .. Loving it so far, althought I'm running OS A5 plugs which are $9 dollars a pop.

t9dragon
08-23-2005, 11:21 AM
I'm using the Traxxas 33% fuel.

T-EVO RACER
08-23-2005, 12:09 PM
I'm running Sidewinder 30% .. Loving it so far, althought I'm running OS A5 plugs which are $9 dollars a pop.
those plugs are too short and tooo much, go with mccoy 8's but i think they make 5's and they are like 3-4 bux a pop a my local shop, o yeah i run odonell 30%

Skribble
08-23-2005, 08:54 PM
Haven't had any problems with them, and I compared them to McCoy's MC-59. Same length.

stonesavage
08-24-2005, 09:56 PM
I have a question for the revo experts are revo diffs almost the same as t-maxx diffs? the reason i am asking is I would like to use revo maxximizer alloy diff cups in my t-maxx21 the revo diffs look like the seal better. thanks

VelvettFogg
08-24-2005, 11:18 PM
I had been experencing trouble with my Revo tranny eating gears. The more experenced drivers at my local track suggested that I install the Forward Only Conversion. I've done so, and now my Revo only goes in reverse!

What the heck?!!?

VelvettFogg
08-25-2005, 01:57 AM
The heck is... I had both the front and rear diffs upside down ... do'h !

johannsy
08-25-2005, 09:28 PM
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/REVO/CIMG0438.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/REVO/CIMG0436.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/REVO/CIMG0435.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/REVO/CIMG0432.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/REVO/CIMG0419.jpg

valleynitro
08-27-2005, 03:30 AM
This may me helpful to REVO OWNERS (http://www.valleynitro.net/articleDetail.asp?articleID=11&articleDetailID=)

XR Mugen
08-27-2005, 09:40 AM
Hey !

Has anybody tried the Tsais dual exhaust pipe for the Revo ? If so, how does it work ? Do the tips get ripped off when landing from jumps ?

Thanks

mugenX5
08-27-2005, 06:51 PM
I'd stick with something that resembles the stock pipe.

Those pipes as well as others are more for looks. Sure there functional, but not practical in racing or bashing. Just look on Ebay and you'll see plenty of garbage for people to put on their " show trucks".

Satoch
08-30-2005, 12:19 AM
I remember seeing a "how to" article somewhere on modding the 2.5r and now I can't find it. Anyone have an idea or a link? If so, post it here or e-mail it to: RevoMagic1@comcast.net Thanks

Skribble
08-31-2005, 04:59 PM
My unique Revo. ;)

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-4/1002367/Racer2.JPG

savagepicco26
09-03-2005, 03:15 AM
Hi there, I didn't read about this feature on the Traxxas site, are you saying that this "OptiDrive" battery monitor is mounted on the truck ?
yes. comes with it. so does a 5-cell pack with charge port and fast peak charger.

http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/revo/blueprints/040428%20Revo-Manual.pdf

page 15 talks about the optidrive.

GTX
09-04-2005, 02:05 PM
Converted mine to big block using the updated New Era kit. I also converted to single steering servo, 1/8 tank mod, put the throttle servo in the old steering spot, and took the throttle box off. I'm using a Hyper 21 4 port that has plenty of power. I am waiting for a 20E carb since my other had air leak issues. Let me know what you guys think.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1153.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1102.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1103.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1087.jpg

46u
09-04-2005, 02:29 PM
With all I hear about the Revo drive train how does it hold up with the big block? All so do you store it with fuel left in the tanks?

savagepicco26
09-04-2005, 03:24 PM
All so do you store it with fuel left in the tanks?
i've been doing this for years without problems. as long as you're going to use it again soon.

stonesavage
09-04-2005, 08:08 PM
The revo drive train can handle a hyper 21 4 port(good choice) but if you drop a wasp 26 or a race 21 then you will need to go will maxximizer alloy diff cups and rrp steel spur/cb and steel cvds

Tim'sLosi
09-04-2005, 10:38 PM
Thanks GTX! I was about to ask for a pic of the carb linkage and you already had one there! I just bought a roller and never saw a setup like this. Can't wait to get it going.
Tim

GTX
09-05-2005, 01:53 AM
I try not to store fuel in the tank for longer than a day. It's bad for the o rings in some tanks but I'm sure the Ofna tanks would be fine.

The Revo drivetrain holds up good with a FOC and good slipper settings. If you lock the slipper down expect some breakage eventually. The tranny holds up as long as you check the bearings. After a gallon I'm gonna check them out and eventually I'll upgrade them to higher grade. You don't have to rip the tranny apart, just wiggle your driveshafts. You shouldn't have play in them, maybe .5mm at the most.

Diffs are another thing. Some people have problems, some don't. Why? Shim your diffs! Look it up on Google and you'll save yourself a lot of time and money. Maxximizer diff cups will help if you have a real torque buster engine.

As far as CVDs go, you won't need them until you start blowing the plastic units. I know guys running ported TZs and Collari .30s with the same drivetrain as me. It all has to do with the slipper and how you drive.

No Prob Tim ;) It took some experimenting but the most simple linkage setup works the best. I like this setup, works good and my truck is "cleaner".

GTX
09-05-2005, 01:56 AM
Here's a couple more pics of my linkage:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1085.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v289/gtxracer/Revo/100_1086.jpg

46u
09-05-2005, 02:15 AM
The o-rings are not what I would worry about if I kept fuel in my tank. It should not hurt them.

Stix
09-05-2005, 06:33 PM
has anyone tried to put an XTM 24.7 BB motor in a Revo yet? i'm just wondering, as i love that motor, but i don't know if it would be too much power for the drivetrain. also, would that require a different crank? thanks all

savagepicco26
09-05-2005, 07:06 PM
also, would that require a different crank? thanks all
the crank's inside the motor. why would you change that?

Ball Racing
09-05-2005, 07:12 PM
Maybe he means the ends of the crank,
as in, the shaft for the clutch, the sg shaft of the threaded shaft...

GTX
09-05-2005, 08:51 PM
Yes, the SG style crank will work with the Revo, but that's the only one. You could experiment with different shaft and clutch setups, but the Revo BB kits include all the necessary hardware to use your existing Revo clutch.


I was going to put in a 24.7 into my Revo until I found a kickin deal on the Hyper 21. If you read my last couple of posts about the slipper, diffs, and tranny bearings you should be fine.

thedarkness
09-07-2005, 06:15 PM
I just got back from the western canadian finals, My big block revo(Vspec) held up fine through qualifing but in the B I stripped a rear pinnion about 3-4 minutes into the race but at this point I was allready far enoungh in the lead to drive at about 25-40% with front wheel drive only to bring it around for the rest of the twenty for the win and the bump.I Had to work on my truck feverously to repair the diff for the A-main and forgot to change my cltch bell bearings(whoops).
The A-started and I worked my way from ninth to fourth or third when I flipped and flamed on the quads, My pit man then had to run from the pit to the quad wich was on the otherside of the track.I got started back up and worked my way around the field but at this time I was a lap down.Eventually I found myself in the number six possition but a flame out after a fuel stop when my pit man went for fuel cost me that possition.
The rest of the race went fairly well and I came home in seventh possition and several laps down.Without the flame outs from dead clutchbell bearings I would have been closer to a podium.
This goes to show what the revo can take. I may hate the A-holes that work for traxxas but they sure did design one hell of a platform.

BTW stone I got The SUT now, he did send the buggy with it.Those step dawgs did the trick on my revo last weekend for sure.

losi racer13
09-08-2005, 04:34 PM
I have a question about my revo, how hard is it to get to the diffs and what do i need to do. i have a savage and those diffs are easy to get to and are they easy to get too also?

GTX
09-08-2005, 11:12 PM
Yeah they're not too hard to get to. After all, it's still a diff and it's probably the most tucked away part on the truck.

Skribble
09-10-2005, 01:37 AM
Bah. I'm ditching the Revo. I always manage to break something when I race it, and I don't feel like spending another couple hundred on it to fix the problems.

And what a bad day for racing -- Broke my a-arm and pulled out the pillowball again in the first heat. Truck was running okay in the second heat. Radio batteries die in the third heat causing my truck to go WOT during the main's start. I charged my radio too so I don't know why it died. After I get it back on the track, I bust the header somewhere -- And my track doesn't have any big jumps. I just replaced my bent one a few weeks ago. The stock mounting header just plain sucks.

I've been eyeing the Kyosho MP777 SP2 and Mugen MSR conversion for a while, and it looks like I'm going to convert to a Truggy with a Kyosho Mooogen mutated child. ;)

savagepicco26
09-11-2005, 06:22 PM
Bah. I'm ditching the Revo. I always manage to break something when I race it, and I don't feel like spending another couple hundred on it to fix the problems.

And what a bad day for racing -- Broke my a-arm and pulled out the pillowball again in the first heat. Truck was running okay in the second heat. Radio batteries die in the third heat causing my truck to go WOT during the main's start. I charged my radio too so I don't know why it died. After I get it back on the track, I bust the header somewhere -- And my track doesn't have any big jumps. I just replaced my bent one a few weeks ago. The stock mounting header just plain sucks.

I've been eyeing the Kyosho MP777 SP2 and Mugen MSR conversion for a while, and it looks like I'm going to convert to a Truggy with a Kyosho Mooogen mutated child. ;)
truggies are not all their cracked up to be. they have their share of problems too. i used to race 8th scales. i had an MBX5. i thought about converting it, but after talking to people, i decided against it. now i race my savage and my revo. i don't think i'll go back to 8th scales any time soon. production monster truck racing is more fun IMO. and for your truck runaway....that's what they make failsafe's for. revo, savage, MP777, MBX5, whatever.....they all can have this happen without a failsafe. i run a venom in all my vehicles. they've saved my vehicles on numerous occasions. plus, most tracks (the smart ones anyway) require them now.

Tim'sLosi
09-11-2005, 09:17 PM
I just my Revo as a roller from Kris. I had a family reunion to attend today so I slapped in a 2.5 from my Maxx. My first impression was how dang simple it was to set up the linkage compared to any of my other trucks. In no time I had it ready to run. I had to rig the pipe off my Maxx and buy a MotorSaver filter to finish it to get ready for today. I didn't even have time to test fire it.

We got to the reunion and were eating when I heard that unmistakeable sound...Whreeeeeee...and smelled NITRO! To my surprise one of my wife's relatives had a Savage 25 there (it's in a park). I ran to my truck and got out the Revo. Fuel, glo, fire. After a quick plug change and some tuning it was pulling the front end up. The Savage looked like a Tyco compared to the Revo. I didn't change any setup and it was a lot of fun. I can tell I need to work on it though because I have seen Revos handle better. I kinda feel bad for stealing the other guy's thunder (he put it away) but my RC18T could have beat that Savage in a drag race.

Great day, great truck. I will have a Savage roller for sale soon...the Revo has a permanent home in my garage.

Skribble
09-11-2005, 10:55 PM
and for your truck runaway....that's what they make failsafe's for. revo, savage, MP777, MBX5, whatever.....they all can have this happen without a failsafe. i run a venom in all my vehicles. they've saved my vehicles on numerous occasions. plus, most tracks (the smart ones anyway) require them now.------------------------------
Funny thing is, I took off the failsafe the same day. Several weeks before, someone got on the same frequency as me, and the failsafe didn't stop the truck from going out of control.

I've turned off my controller to see if it was working, and it pulled the throttle servo back just fine -- With the frequency conflict, it didn't do anything. I figure I always leave my radio on the charger and I always charge the receiver pack I wouldn't have a problem -- But I did buy the radio used with rechargeable batteries. There's one reason.

Luckily the truck flipped over before any damage occured. I have yet to take apart the engine and inspect it though -- Ran fine during the main. Just really loud due to the header breaking off.
----------------------------------
Just took that from another thread I posted in -- The failsafe was a Dynamite one. I'm definately buying new rechargeable batteries.

And I want to give 1/8s a try because if I keep my Revo, I'd spend the same ammount of money for upgrades as as a 777 SP2.

savagepicco26
09-11-2005, 11:02 PM
Just took that from another thread I posted in -- The failsafe was a Dynamite one. I'm definately buying new rechargeable batteries.
.....LOL we're posting the same thing in 2 threads. i run a venom failsafe and have gotten several frequency hits and the throttle immediately shuts down. also, one time i inadvertantly tested out the low battery feature. i was running 1st in the B-Main and was 20 seconds away from winning and bumping up to the A-Main. all the sudden the motor goes to idle, brakes lock up, and my buggy just stopped. couldn't figure out what was wrong. steering was working fine. i thought that the throttle servo burned up. my battery pack's voltage dropped low enough though and the fail safe kicked in to prevent the pack dieing with the servo at WOT. most people i race with run venom failsafes. i know of 1 other person who started with a dynamite and didn't like it, switched to venom and now is happy. don't remember what he didn't like about the dynamite or if it caused problems.

Skribble
09-12-2005, 12:48 AM
LOL .. Didn't even look at the names when I posted. :D I'll probably pick up a Venom one soon.

losi racer13
09-16-2005, 12:20 AM
my revos for sale in the forsale section...check it out if ur interested

totsandman
09-18-2005, 01:19 PM
.....LOL we're posting the same thing in 2 threads. i run a venom failsafe and have gotten several frequency hits and the throttle immediately shuts down. also, one time i inadvertantly tested out the low battery feature. i was running 1st in the B-Main and was 20 seconds away from winning and bumping up to the A-Main. all the sudden the motor goes to idle, brakes lock up, and my buggy just stopped. couldn't figure out what was wrong. steering was working fine. i thought that the throttle servo burned up. my battery pack's voltage dropped low enough though and the fail safe kicked in to prevent the pack dieing with the servo at WOT. most people i race with run venom failsafes. i know of 1 other person who started with a dynamite and didn't like it, switched to venom and now is happy. don't remember what he didn't like about the dynamite or if it caused problems.

Hello
I'm new to the RC trucks and just purchased the Revo ( I've only put 13 tank through it including the brake in )
I also picked up the Venom all in one for it and just want to make sure i have installed correctly
I installed the between the throttle servo and the opti drive is this correct ?
Also I"m not sure really were to set the temp fail safe at . According to some ppl on another forum i should set it at 250 but at this setting it keeps going into fail safe AM i running hot or is this just to Lowe?
I also set the voltage at 5.4

Any help would be appreciated thanks

savagepicco26
09-18-2005, 07:43 PM
Hello
I'm new to the RC trucks and just purchased the Revo ( I've only put 13 tank through it including the brake in )
I also picked up the Venom all in one for it and just want to make sure i have installed correctly
I installed the between the throttle servo and the opti drive is this correct ?
Also I"m not sure really were to set the temp fail safe at . According to some ppl on another forum i should set it at 250 but at this setting it keeps going into fail safe AM i running hot or is this just to Lowe?
I also set the voltage at 5.4

Any help would be appreciated thanks
not sure about the connections, but for the temp, set it to 270. that's the max that the traxxas manual suggests.

nitroracer4600
09-25-2005, 03:50 AM
I just bought a revo and i can't wait to race it this winter!! I have done some weight reduction mods but i need a new engine, servos, and just up-grades to decrease the weight. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help.

savagepicco26
09-25-2005, 08:29 AM
I just bought a revo and i can't wait to race it this winter!! I have done some weight reduction mods but i need a new engine, servos, and just up-grades to decrease the weight. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help.
servo: airtronics 94358
motor: OS .18 TM or TZ with OS manifold

abels621
09-25-2005, 06:57 PM
hey guys i got a question. is the revos suspension soft for bashing and jumping? if it is, what is a cheap fix for it? (shock fluid, shock springs, etc.)
thanx

thedarkness
09-25-2005, 07:30 PM
For bashing and big jumps no matter what anyone thinks the best setup is going to be thick oil stiff springs and the lt rockers.Most people will say take p2 or p3 rockers but for big jumps you want full action of the shocks and such through the travel.Think of it this way if you jump off something is it better to let you legs do the work and compresse till your squating or to land in allready squatted and try to obsorb the impact.

savagepicco26
09-25-2005, 07:31 PM
hey guys i got a question. is the revos suspension soft for bashing and jumping? if it is, what is a cheap fix for it? (shock fluid, shock springs, etc.)
thanx
it comes with some springs, but you can buy more. it also comes with long travel rockers so you'll have more suspension travel. springs and the LT rockers should give you all the suspension you need.

abels621
09-25-2005, 07:57 PM
alright thanx because in rc car action they said they suspension was soft. just wanted to know what u guys thought. thanx again

Csquared
09-26-2005, 01:02 AM
I am really new to Nitro and was hoping somebody herre might be able to give me a possible solution to my problem:

I have my 2.5 tuned to where its really fast....for about 10 min. After that the accelaration is really sluggish but the top end is still very fast.

What is causing this? Overheating? Too lean?

Thanks,
C2

Stix
09-27-2005, 04:34 PM
the crank's inside the motor. why would you change that?
i meant to say crank length :rolleyes:
yeah Ball Racing, that's exactly what i was meanin :D

savagepicco26
09-27-2005, 07:35 PM
i meant to say crank length :rolleyes:
sorry, i didn't understand what you meant :confused: :D

Tim'sLosi
09-27-2005, 07:38 PM
I am really new to Nitro and was hoping somebody herre might be able to give me a possible solution to my problem:

I have my 2.5 tuned to where its really fast....for about 10 min. After that the accelaration is really sluggish but the top end is still very fast.

What is causing this? Overheating? Too lean?

Thanks,
C2
Try setting the needles back to factory and tune from there. Make sure all the fasteners on the engine are tight and install a new glow plug.
Post again if you have more probs.

TRXrevoRacerOS18
10-02-2005, 04:39 PM
yeah im with tims losi

astainback
10-05-2005, 10:50 AM
I just got a Revo used, and was wondering about something I read.

The guy that had it before me (who I really think never drove it, it is like brand new) put the progression 2 rockers on the Revo. Isn't the progressive 1 the stock setup?? Also, for some reason, he purchased a whole other progressive 2 kit. (don't know why, but hey, it's extra parts) He also added the new traxxas red aluminum push rods.

I thought I read somewhere that you can't or shouldn't use the red aluminum push rods with the prog.2 suspension setup. Also, what is the color coding on the springs. I think I have green, grey, and black maybe?? (little marks on end of springs)

One more question.

I think my fuel tank is leaking from the lid and maybe the bottom. The truck has fuel on the bottom of it. I have already purchased a backup tank, but it would be nice if I could fix this one. I know how to tighten the lid on this truck, but wanted to know if anyone else had problems with the tank lid.

adrian

TRXrevoRacerOS18
10-05-2005, 01:31 PM
well the p2's are designed to work with red aluminum pushrods, they have red alumium spacers with them when you buy them. They also say on teh package, FOR USE WITH ALUMINUM PUSHRODS, so idk who you heard that from but idk what they are talking about , and as far as the fuel tank, are you sure that you are not spilling any as you are refueling the car, i do this sometimes and teh fuel runs all over the bottom of the car, i have tan and orange springs to stop it from looking like its doing a wheelie, well now it does do a wheelie cuz the susp doesnt give too much or bottom out.

Tim'sLosi
10-05-2005, 08:11 PM
Go HERE (http://traxxas.com/support/pub/revo_performance_setup_guide.htm) or HERE (http://traxxas.com/support/pub/revo_performance_sc.htm) for all you ever wanted to know about the REVO suspension system. The 5318X red alum pushrods are for P1 or P2 rockers. Add the spacers to make them P2. As far as the tank...mine leaked because the blue o-ring had stretched out of the groove. I just bought and installed a new tank.


I just got a Revo used, and was wondering about something I read.

The guy that had it before me (who I really think never drove it, it is like brand new) put the progression 2 rockers on the Revo. Isn't the progressive 1 the stock setup?? Also, for some reason, he purchased a whole other progressive 2 kit. (don't know why, but hey, it's extra parts) He also added the new traxxas red aluminum push rods.

I thought I read somewhere that you can't or shouldn't use the red aluminum push rods with the prog.2 suspension setup. Also, what is the color coding on the springs. I think I have green, grey, and black maybe?? (little marks on end of springs)

One more question.

I think my fuel tank is leaking from the lid and maybe the bottom. The truck has fuel on the bottom of it. I have already purchased a backup tank, but it would be nice if I could fix this one. I know how to tighten the lid on this truck, but wanted to know if anyone else had problems with the tank lid.

adrian

inpresser
10-06-2005, 08:45 AM
For bashing and big jumps no matter what anyone thinks the best setup is going to be thick oil stiff springs and the lt rockers.Most people will say take p2 or p3 rockers but for big jumps you want full action of the shocks and such through the travel.Think of it this way if you jump off something is it better to let you legs do the work and compresse till your squating or to land in allready squatted and try to obsorb the impact.

AH ha I just rebuilt my shocks with 80wt and purple springs 4x. put on the lt rockers too I havent had time to test it yet. Well I ran it last week with the lt in and omg mushy like grandmas 73 caddy. i should have the ops cks done sat let you guys know.IDK this canti lever stuff is tricky always seems too soft, like the the suspension has too much leverage over the shocks. technoligy huh. I tell you what this truck is sweet in the rough stuff-bump steer whats that

astainback
10-06-2005, 11:15 PM
Well, I have 8 red aluminum spacers that are not installed at all. haha

I do not have the paperwork (if there was any) with the push rods, but i will do a little internet research, and get them up and running.

thanks,
adrian

Tim'sLosi
10-07-2005, 07:29 AM
Well, I have 8 red aluminum spacers that are not installed at all. haha

I do not have the paperwork (if there was any) with the push rods, but i will do a little internet research, and get them up and running.

thanks,
adrian
If you have the stock silver or the red 5318x rods and you install p2 rockers you need to install the spacers to get the proper progressive rate. I already did the research!

savagepicco26
10-07-2005, 06:49 PM
Well, I have 8 red aluminum spacers that are not installed at all. haha

I do not have the paperwork (if there was any) with the push rods, but i will do a little internet research, and get them up and running.

thanks,
adrian
they don't come with paperwork. mine didn't anyway.

inpresser
10-09-2005, 08:09 PM
Hey fellas , Well got the pig to run I tell ya my truck is a bear to start and I don't have a clue why. heres my situation. I fired my truck up about a month ago first time ran like a champ tuning seemed perfect. went through a mud puddle yadayadyada still for a bit the thing flipped and stalled ok not to uncommon. let the truk cool a little while my buddy ran his savage. went to fire it back up and got nothing on the ez start eng light lit thats it. i was confused had no vapor lock swapped the plug still nothing figured i got the ez start motor wet so i canned it got an ofna backplate for a shaft start and use my cordless drill to rotate. also added a motor saver air filter and tsias dual exhaust (very very loud hard to stand over the truck with it running) but sounds good. any way after this novel the beast wont just fire right up have to screw with it alot. reset back to factory settings and everything but how much does that have to do with starting ? my fuel was old last year sat on the back deck for a bit didnt know sorry noob but have new fuel now still nothing you guys thing the drill isnt rotating fast enough im at a loss with what to do. apart from buying a new powerplant. gonna go with the os 18tm or possibly a big block. is there enough room for a pull start and a big block whats everyone else running thanks sorry its so long , ME

Tim'sLosi
10-09-2005, 09:00 PM
I had no luck using a drill as a starter. The Roto Starts spin a lot faster. Try your Savage buddy's and see if it works better. The .18TM is the most popular match IMHO. Just got one for mine!
Tim

inpresser
10-09-2005, 09:44 PM
I didnt know that there was first run production probs been trying to sift the through the 47 pages of info here gonna go pull the carb apart i think well see. thanks

jmangler1
10-10-2005, 06:31 AM
Hey any of you guys tried the Robinson Racing Steel Spur Gear and clutch bell?? These gears are supposed to be extra hard steel. I was going to buy the online but, I just wanted to see if anyone has tried them out yet...

savagepicco26
10-10-2005, 10:02 AM
Hey any of you guys tried the Robinson Racing Steel Spur Gear and clutch bell?? These gears are supposed to be extra hard steel. I was going to buy the online but, I just wanted to see if anyone has tried them out yet...
i tried one on my savage. they're extremely heavy and kill your acceleration. not to mention you'll just start tearing up other things. after i put mine in, i started busting diffs, drive shafts and other more expensive parts. now i just run the stock spur. $3 spur is a lot cheaper than a $40 diff. and if they're adjusted right, the stock spur won't strip unless something catastrophic happens.

jmangler1
10-10-2005, 03:56 PM
Thanks savage! Thats enough to keep me with the plastic!

savagepicco26
10-10-2005, 09:39 PM
Thanks savage! Thats enough to keep me with the plastic!
if you're stripping spurs alot, make sure the mesh is correct, but also the alignment of the motor. even a slight angle can make them strip. a lot of people make the mistake of just making sure the spacing between the gears is correct, but the motor is sitting at an angle. they think the spacing is fine but still wonder why they strip gears. i've learned this the hard way! i stripped at least a dozen spurs on my savage before i learned to do it properly.

jmangler1
10-10-2005, 10:07 PM
I didnt have a problem with stripping them I just saw the hardend steel ones and was thinking of giving them a shot...

Maxxcrazy
10-16-2005, 11:35 AM
Does anyone have some stock drivehshafts or knuckles they can do without?

Challenger
10-17-2005, 07:49 AM
Hey any of you guys tried the Robinson Racing Steel Spur Gear and clutch bell?? These gears are supposed to be extra hard steel. I was going to buy the online but, I just wanted to see if anyone has tried them out yet...

You will get a good laugh out of this one!!
I kept stripping gears on an old Thunder Quake with a Torqless 21 engine and tried some of the RR gears.
I found the quality of the products they sell to be outstanding!! It solved the problem on the old TQ and did not lead to any other problems. But then again that's on an old TQ with a Torqless 21 motor. :)

CHRIS_MARMOLEJO
10-22-2005, 10:17 PM
hey people any buddy know the steps how tune the 2.5R if yeah list step by step ?

thanks!!

RevoWrecker
10-26-2005, 09:15 AM
Hey guys,

I've had a Revo for a while now, bought it a few weeks after they arrived here in the UK. I have noticed that, although Traxxas have done a splendid job designing this truck, I feel other areas could have been improved upon. For example, my exhaust coupler has split twice from the truck simply rolling over when jumping it. This has never happened to any of my other RCs, so why the Revo? Maybe the exhaust layout?

Also the o-ring on my tank has never been seated properly from the box, and has made me think this has been making my engine run lean. Tuning of the 2.5R seems quite tempermental lately. I have heard this problem from other Revo owners, so has there been any updated parts been made available, or is it a case of simply buying a replacement? It cant be too good to the motor if the o-rings keep getting damaged...

And finally, has anybody else stripped any gears within their 2-speed gearbox? My slipper has always been set fairly tight, but never over-tight. I took it onto my back lawn briefly and it started playing up after a while. Now I have stripped the truck down I have been able to separate each diff to find where the problem is. The front and rear diffs are fine, but the centre seems notchy when you turn the spur gear. Anybody know how expensive these are to replace?!

cheers,

=chris=

savagepicco26
10-26-2005, 10:04 AM
Tuning of the 2.5R seems quite tempermental lately. I have heard this problem from other Revo owners, so has there been any updated parts been made available, or is it a case of simply buying a replacement?
the 2.5 series motors have always been a tuning nightmare. they're a serious PITA! every one i've ever seen has been that way. they're just finicky motors.

RevoWrecker
10-26-2005, 10:13 AM
Well I'm not too sure about that. Sure they take a bit of fiddling around with to get running right, but I've had worse motors in terms of reliability. I shoe-horned an STS .12 onroad race motor into an old HPI Rush a few years ago, and it NEVER ran properly until I sold it to some kid wanting to race it. I told him the motor needed tuning, but rather him than me tbh! Would have been a kickass motor if I'd got it going properly.

I'm in two minds what to do tho, because although the 2.5R is finicky, it still makes awesome power for its size. I think Traxxas may have spoiled us here, because if you want more power after the 2.5R, you're talking about a fair bit of . I remember the days when an HPI .15FE was the RTR engine, and you could be pretty sure that anything else would be quicker, no matter what the price really! How times have changed...

Maybe I should just go BigBlock.....now theres a thought...

=chris=

chokie
10-26-2005, 02:47 PM
Hi there,

I'm new here.
I bought my Revo last june in Germany through the internet.
Since then i've learned much about the Revo.
I read that Revowrecker has problems with his O-ring on the fueltank.
There is a simple solution for his problem.
Anyone who has a O-ring problem needs to be in contact with Traxxas support !
If you've registered your Revo on the Traxxassite, your Revo wil be known in the database of Traxxas.
Then you send an Email to Traxxas support and ask very politely to fix your O-ring problem.
I've done this a month ago, and guess what.....?
I got 2 new O-rings (the better one, it looks red and feels sturdier) for free !

Greets from Holland

Chokie ;)

Quad Racer
10-27-2005, 05:58 PM
I put a 8th scale tank on mine

savagepicco26
10-27-2005, 06:07 PM
some guy at a local track had put a 200cc tank on his! in think he got 16 minute run times on the track.

fsuuga
11-02-2005, 07:16 PM
Here are some pics of my Revo. Big block power is fun.

http://usera.imagecave.com/ugapug/Revo/100_0435.jpg

http://usera.imagecave.com/ugapug/Revo/100_0436.jpg

Revo_Devil
11-03-2005, 02:58 PM
Is that a Sirio .23? Which pipe are you using?

fsuuga
11-03-2005, 03:44 PM
Yes, it's a Sirio .23. I'm using the Trinity pipe. Loud, but good. By the way, can anyone confirm whether or not a 2.5 bump start backplate will work with the Sirio? I'd like to go starter box, but I, understandably, don't want to ruin my motor :)

savagepicco26
11-03-2005, 07:18 PM
Yes, it's a Sirio .23. I'm using the Trinity pipe. Loud, but good. By the way, can anyone confirm whether or not a 2.5 bump start backplate will work with the Sirio? I'd like to go starter box, but I, understandably, don't want to ruin my motor :)
i seriously doubt it would. you're talking about big blocks versus small blocks, ie. big backplates versus small backplates. you don't need to put a different backplate on there. if it's got a pull start, you can leave that on. i've got a starter box for my revo and i still have the easy start on there cause i don't feel like tearing it apart and buying another backplate. it will work with a pull start, roto start or any other kind of backplate. you don't have to have a non-pull start backplate on there to use a starter box.

fsuuga
11-05-2005, 02:08 AM
i seriously doubt it would. you're talking about big blocks versus small blocks, ie. big backplates versus small backplates. you don't need to put a different backplate on there. if it's got a pull start, you can leave that on. i've got a starter box for my revo and i still have the easy start on there cause i don't feel like tearing it apart and buying another backplate. it will work with a pull start, roto start or any other kind of backplate. you don't have to have a non-pull start backplate on there to use a starter box.

Well, the easy start bolts right up, and pull start bolts right up, and the starter shaft hooks right up, so I think it probably would. I'm going to just use the ol' Mark One Eyeball and check it out myself.

The whole point is to reduce weight and rotating mass in the engine. If I leave the P/S on there, it kind of defeats the purpose. I guess I could just remove the one way and let it free-wheel.

savagepicco26
11-05-2005, 09:34 AM
The whole point is to reduce weight and rotating mass in the engine. If I leave the P/S on there, it kind of defeats the purpose. I guess I could just remove the one way and let it free-wheel.
on a .23, i don't think you've got much to worry about with weight and rotating mass. if anything, it will help you from applying too much power to the drivetrain and ripping something out (which i've seen numerous times with .21's, and .23's) honestly, i don't see the need for anything bigger than a .18 on a revo. i've got a .26 on my savage and the power is too much at times if i get a little anxious with the throttle. when the stock 2.5R dies on the revo, i'll probably put a .18 CVR on there, but there's no need for anything bigger. i know everyone has a different opinion on the matter and the power they want. mine comes from seeing dozens of different revos on the track and driving many of them myself. i drove one with an RB 323, FOC, 23mm 40's, etc, and it was too much power. most of the time the truck was spinning the wheels from the power which is just wasting it and eating up tires. it makes no sense to me, but hey, if that's what you want, then go for it. most of the time, my stock 2.5R was keeping up with him with the exception of the straightaways. i'd get him in the turns cause he couldn't use all the power that was in the motor. it was being wasted on spinning tires and fishtailing out of the turns. this was an experienced racer too. after that day, i lost all interest in ever putting a big block in my revo.

fsuuga
11-05-2005, 01:06 PM
on a .23, i don't think you've got much to worry about with weight and rotating mass. if anything, it will help you from applying too much power to the drivetrain and ripping something out (which i've seen numerous times with .21's, and .23's) honestly, i don't see the need for anything bigger than a .18 on a revo. i've got a .26 on my savage and the power is too much at times if i get a little anxious with the throttle. when the stock 2.5R dies on the revo, i'll probably put a .18 CVR on there, but there's no need for anything bigger. i know everyone has a different opinion on the matter and the power they want. mine comes from seeing dozens of different revos on the track and driving many of them myself. i drove one with an RB 323, FOC, 23mm 40's, etc, and it was too much power. most of the time the truck was spinning the wheels from the power which is just wasting it and eating up tires. it makes no sense to me, but hey, if that's what you want, then go for it. most of the time, my stock 2.5R was keeping up with him with the exception of the straightaways. i'd get him in the turns cause he couldn't use all the power that was in the motor. it was being wasted on spinning tires and fishtailing out of the turns. this was an experienced racer too. after that day, i lost all interest in ever putting a big block in my revo.

Well, I had a T-Maxx completely converted to UE Supermaxx and an RB C5 converted to PS. I did pretty well driving it :)

It's all about managing the power.

insane
11-06-2005, 09:25 PM
Also in response to the heat problem JOIN THE CLUB!
This engine is not that great when it comes to that.
I have the GH head and the motor saver air filter and it still runs hotter as the tank goes down.
I hate the 2.5 and I am also deciding what to do about the engine thing????
but till then i am going to keep pounding the 2.5.......
Well pounding the heck outa it....
will any other motor fit he revo pullstart 18 o/s ?.

fsuuga
11-06-2005, 09:50 PM
First off --- check your tank o-ring. If it's blue, you need to replace it NOW. Second, check EVERYWHERE for air leaks. If you have a leak in your pipe coupler, header, carb (anywhere), you're gonna have problems with the 2.5r.

IF your tank cap doesn't pop when you pull it up, you need to replace the o-ring whether it's the new one or not. Most Revo turning problems can be traced back to the tank. Good luck :)

Quad Racer
11-06-2005, 10:01 PM
Or do what I did and put a 8th scale tank on it.

FreeRideJunkie
11-07-2005, 01:44 AM
OK... pretty somple question:

How durable can this truck be made and for what price?? I am looking to get a MT and have been leaning towards the new MGT for best overall. I love the chassis design of the revo though. I know that I hate the motor and would eventually doing a BB conversion. I will be doing a lot of bashing and some racing... how durable does this come stock?? And what can I look foreward to??

XR Mugen
11-07-2005, 04:15 AM
Hey guys

Hope everyone is well. My Revo engine, the 2.5r is pretty finicky as well. I have been thinking about putting the carb off the O.S. 18tm on the Traxxas motor as I think all of the engine's issues stem from the carb. Any thoughts ?

RevoMaster
11-08-2005, 11:37 PM
Yes, it's a Sirio .23. I'm using the Trinity pipe. Loud, but good. By the way, can anyone confirm whether or not a 2.5 bump start backplate will work with the Sirio? I'd like to go starter box, but I, understandably, don't want to ruin my motor :)

Sorry, but the bumpstart backplate for the 2.5 will NOT work with the Sirio .23 even though the p/s and easy start bolt up. However, you can use an RB 323 bumbstart back plate. They are much easier to come by and probably cheaper than the Sirio backplate also.

I would not recommend leaving the p/s or easy start on if you have a bump starter. Technically you can do this and it will work but there is a problem with the rear bushing for the starter shaft. This bushing wears rapidly and you get excess clearance to the shaft which causes an air leak. This problem exists on the 2.5, the Sirio .23, as well as the RB323. Using the bumbstart back plate eliminates the bushing and the problem.

TXTRCR
11-25-2005, 03:52 AM
its the carb, tried putting an os on my sport max but got a huge power drop. unless you can find the same exact carb made out of METAL dont bother.

Traxxas, Why OH WHY wont you make a metal carb the same as the plastic pos you put on there. if its because of money, meaning cheaper to use plastic than machine out of aluminum. heck throw another 40 or 50 bux at the price tag i wouldnt care one bit. even for 100 dollars more if it had a metal carb i would still buy it.

It looks like an awesome truck other than the carb. the engines are great pro .15s and 2.5s just the carbs suck. im in the market for a new nitro mt, its come to a toss up between losi lst/lst2 if i feel like waiting that long or the revo. that plastic paper weight of a carb is seriously pushing me towards the losi.

TXTRCR
11-25-2005, 03:56 AM
i know all the arguements for plastic vs. metal carbs so dont bother. plastic has something to do with cooling expanding and contracting or some bs like that. to me its just an airleak waiting to happen. i sure hope the high speed needle housing is in a titanium case. you all rememeber the broken high speed needle housing thing on the 2.5 maxx, sportmaxx, smaxx, stadium maxx, and anyother maxx they could get people to buy.

FreeRideJunkie
11-25-2005, 02:57 PM
i already have an air leak on my 2.turd with only 3 tanks past break in or so...

TXTRCR
11-25-2005, 05:33 PM
never count on all the leaks to be fixed at the assembly line, they count on simple oring seals sometimes they hold sometimes they dont. what i do with any new engine is pull out the carb dont mess with needles just pull it out run a thin layer of silicone around the base and reinstall applying pressure to the throut to make sure its seated on the crank case and retorqe mounting bolt, then try to tighten the head bolts, you never know they could have missed one. and do the same with exhaust if it has a paper or aluminum gasket tighten bolts if its an o ring seal apply silicone to make sure its sealed up tighten cable ties on exhaust coupler exhaust bolts on the pipe if its two peice pipe. even the back plate will sometimes spring a leak. i apply a thin layer of silicone to it as well. then the only two places it can leak after that is front and rear seal on crank case not so easy to fix.

TXTRCR
11-25-2005, 05:34 PM
oh and i did go ahead and get the revo looks pretty ok to me ill find out soon enough.

nerwin
11-26-2005, 09:36 PM
hay i just had a question about the revo i just bought. im having trouble keeping it cool. does anyone have any quick fixes for me? I got to say this this is awsome!

XR Mugen
11-27-2005, 08:57 AM
Thanks TXTRCR. Anyone else have any opinions on the carb issue ? So it sounds to me that if I cahnge my carb, I run the risk of power loss as the OS carb is not designed for the 2.5r?

Also, I hipe you enjoy your Revo. I know I love mine.

TXTRCR
11-27-2005, 06:12 PM
Carbs
about the carb on the 2.5r vs the 2.5tmaxx motor. seems to me like they did a little tuning and tweaking on the engine, i was thinking they just put a blue
head on it and called it a 2.5r instead of a 2.5. its got gobs more power than the tmaxx motor or it could be that the truck is just that smooth, from a standing start if tuned to do so the truck will pull the wheels up no problem. tune fat on top lean on the bottem tighten slipper and put stiffer springs in the back of the truck, i did that right after break in to get all the wheelies out of my system, i went back to factory suspension and slipper setup and retuned carb for all out acceleration and top end performance.

OVERHEATING
im not having any overheating issues either. i know traxxas says use only top fuel, but it seems to run a little hotter with that stuff for some reason. its surely not from lack of oil they made sure to get plenty of oil in that stuff, could be the nitro isnt quite up to par. mine runs way better on trinity monster hp 20% or byrons 20%. you may try a different fuel on your motor and see what happens then. you will need to re tune because the difference is night and day between top fuel and any other.

all around its by far the best traxxas vehicle ive ever owned, its a little shy of the 45mph mark advertised on the box about 35.5 mph, im sure i could tuned to get it up to 40 or 45 but im not willing to risk overheating for 10mph. its plenty fast for me.

TXTRCR
11-27-2005, 06:15 PM
speeds verified by hand held gps unit so how ever accurate they are is how accurate my post is. i tried it in my full size car first is seems like it may be 1mph to .5 mph off or there about.

TRXrevoRacerOS18
11-27-2005, 06:51 PM
First off --- check your tank o-ring. If it's blue, you need to replace it NOW. Second, check EVERYWHERE for air leaks. If you have a leak in your pipe coupler, header, carb (anywhere), you're gonna have problems with the 2.5r.

IF your tank cap doesn't pop when you pull it up, you need to replace the o-ring whether it's the new one or not. Most Revo turning problems can be traced back to the tank. Good luck :)

I have a blue o-ring on my revo, what o-ring should i replace it with? i havent got a "pop" at all on mine.

TXTRCR
11-27-2005, 09:49 PM
i could be wrong but isnt the fuel tank cap adjustable, i know on the tmaxxs you had an allen screw that you could tighten to squeeze out more oring for a better seal on the fuel tank neck. i havent looked at the lid on my truck yet when i open it every time i can hear the seal being broken so i didnt feel like it needed to be looked at.

RevoWrecker
11-28-2005, 04:27 AM
The Revo lid is an adjustable one. However, the o-ring actually gets stretched/deformed to form a poor seal. No amount of adjustment to the lid will help correct this. I have looked at mine and it is a blue one - the new ones are red if remember rightly.

=chris=

XR Mugen
11-28-2005, 04:59 AM
You know, I had the same issue with the Traxxas fuel as well. The truck seemed to run 20 or 30 degrees or so hotter on 20% Top Fuel. When I switched the truck to O'Donnell 20%, the engine ran much steadier and cooler.

My original gas tank had a rather poor seal from the factory. At that point, I could not find the o-ring kit so I bought a new tank which sealed much better. I think some of the earlier tank seals were not quite up to par. Still a fabulous truck however. I enjoy the Revo so much I think I am going to buy a Jato to try it out.

TRXrevoRacerOS18
11-28-2005, 11:32 AM
But why would they want their 2.5R to run HOTTER? It runs hot enough already, 250-260ish, and some guys had break in temps of 300+! I switched to a O.S. .18TM because they are a lot easier to tune, lots more power, and a more reliable, cooler running motor.

JamminJay
11-28-2005, 03:57 PM
But why would they want their 2.5R to run HOTTER? It runs hot enough already, 250-260ish, and some guys had break in temps of 300+! I switched to a O.S. .18TM because they are a lot easier to tune, lots more power, and a more reliable, cooler running motor.

Don't let this guy fool ya... he doesn't even own a Revo..... :D

HaHaHa.. Just kidding! Well guys I recently got a Revo too, and just done all the Steve Slayden mods, and a few hop ups. So it looks like I'll be popping in this forum everyonce in a while, considering I'm new to this truck.

XR Mugen
11-28-2005, 05:52 PM
Hey there:

I finally decided to go with the THS exhaust for my Revo. Thought you guys might like to see it mounted on the truck...

XR Mugen
11-28-2005, 05:54 PM
From the rear.. note I had to trim the bottom of the body post for clearance.

Tighty Whitey
11-29-2005, 05:16 PM
My Revo just came in yesterday, heading to the LHS to pick up my other needed items. Is there anything you guys recomend right off the bat to help with the break in of this new truck.

Also this is my first R/C in over 10 years...... so any advice on this truck that can be given will be thankfull.

XR Mugen
11-29-2005, 05:35 PM
Hey there..

some extra Traxxas glow plugs, a small flat blade screwdriver for adjustments, a glow plug wrench, and a temp gun of some kind.

t9dragon
11-29-2005, 05:37 PM
hay i just had a question about the revo i just bought. im having trouble keeping it cool. does anyone have any quick fixes for me? I got to say this this is awsome!

How old is your Revo? What are your running temps? You need to richen your settings, you need to turn the high speed needle out.

t9dragon
11-29-2005, 05:39 PM
i already have an air leak on my 2.turd with only 3 tanks past break in or so...

You need to seal the carb to the case. I use Prematex cooper sealent to seal everything on the motor.

Tighty Whitey
11-29-2005, 05:52 PM
Hey there..

some extra Traxxas glow plugs, a small flat blade screwdriver for adjustments, a glow plug wrench, and a temp gun of some kind.


Thanks Mugen

t9dragon
11-29-2005, 06:40 PM
Hey there..

some extra Traxxas glow plugs, a small flat blade screwdriver for adjustments, a glow plug wrench, and a temp gun of some kind.

I would go with everything "XR Mugen" suggested except I would use the OS #8 glow plugs.

nerwin
11-29-2005, 07:48 PM
How old is your Revo? What are your running temps? You need to richen your settings, you need to turn the high speed needle out.
my revo is just a couple of weeks old. Ive tried to richen the mix a little but it didnt work, it made the truck stall and hard to start. I heard that it will run hotter as the gas goes down in the tank. i was wondering if this was a true statement? its been running around 280-300 and increases at idle. i found a different head that is suppose to take of 20 degrees, but i havent bought it yet. I went back to the factory settings and i still have this problem. I also checked the gas cap but its fine. I cant find anything wrong with it. I have been running taraxxas 20% fuel. i did try another kind but it ran realy hot with it. I just have recently cut some holes in the body to try to get more air around the motor. It did help a little but i still dont let it get to far away. One other thing i have noticed is that i get frequency jams around my house and at the beach, I dont know if its because i live near alot of miltary bases or if its the cable boxs that are around the streets. I think im going to try a different crystal. any other ideas?

TRXrevoRacerOS18
11-29-2005, 08:13 PM
Don't let this guy fool ya... he doesn't even own a Revo..... :D

HaHaHa.. Just kidding! Well guys I recently got a Revo too, and just done all the Steve Slayden mods, and a few hop ups. So it looks like I'll be popping in this forum everyonce in a while, considering I'm new to this truck.

Are we trying to start something? :mad: :p You know i have a revo haha, thats my life that car, and its made me broke haha! My pipe is still forsale ;)
you NEED to buy that stock pipe haha :D

Buy, Buy, Buy haha only 15 dollars :)

TRXrevoRacerOS18
11-29-2005, 08:15 PM
From the rear.. note I had to trim the bottom of the body post for clearance.

Looks nice, how loud is the pipe? I know my trinity is so loud, its almost annoying

JamminJay
11-30-2005, 10:27 AM
Are we trying to start something? :mad: :p You know i have a revo haha, thats my life that car, and its made me broke haha! My pipe is still forsale ;)
you NEED to buy that stock pipe haha :D

Buy, Buy, Buy haha only 15 dollars :)


Hahahahaha. Yea i have dumped too much into mine recently too. Need to recouperate from it.

TRXrevoRacerOS18
11-30-2005, 04:32 PM
its true with all of them lol

savagepicco26
11-30-2005, 07:12 PM
yeah, i'm debating on selling my savage to support my revo habit! :D

t9dragon
11-30-2005, 07:18 PM
yeah, i'm debating on selling my savage to support my revo habit! :D

What did you want for your Savage?

Tim'sLosi
11-30-2005, 07:20 PM
yeah, i'm debating on selling my savage to support my revo habit! :D
LOL...That is what I'm doing. Selling off vehicles to get more money for my Revo habit. Do you think there's a Revo Rehab Center?

TRXrevoRacerOS18
12-01-2005, 07:36 AM
The revos are too amazing, its like rice krispies cereal, once you pop (to driving a revo) you just cant stop!

XR Mugen
12-01-2005, 08:06 AM
Hey guys:

Nerwin:

1) On the radio glitching issue, I would make sure that the motor and pipe mounting bolts are all nice and tight as one of those being a little loose can cause all sorts of glitching in the radio. Also, check those servo leads, the battery lead, and the leads for the opti-drive. Make sure all are pluggfed in firmly and that no wires are loose or chafed.

2) If your truck is not brand new, or even if it is, I think your over-heating may be caused by your carb having some dirt, sediment, or debris in it. I would first change all of the fuel line, then take the carb off, take the needles out and blow everything out with some electric motor spray cleaner or compressed air. Then I would replace the needles to factory settings, seal the high-speed needle mount to the carb with some gasket sealer (just a little, you do not want it to clog the needle) and then seal the carb to the engine case with the same sealer. Also, I would check the engine backplate for debris, and then seal it as well to the engine block. Finally, I would just put a new gas tank on it just to be safe and I think your problem will be solved. You should not have to buy a new cooling head to get the engine to run properly. Good luck.

2) Wheeliejato: I ahve not gotten to try out the pipe yet. As soon as I do, I will post. Thanks though, I am happy with how it looks on there.

XR

TRXrevoRacerOS18
12-01-2005, 10:34 AM
Hey guys:

Nerwin:

1) On the radio glitching issue, I would make sure that the motor and pipe mounting bolts are all nice and tight as one of those being a little loose can cause all sorts of glitching in the radio. Also, check those servo leads, the battery lead, and the leads for the opti-drive. Make sure all are pluggfed in firmly and that no wires are loose or chafed.

2) If your truck is not brand new, or even if it is, I think your over-heating may be caused by your carb having some dirt, sediment, or debris in it. I would first change all of the fuel line, then take the carb off, take the needles out and blow everything out with some electric motor spray cleaner or compressed air. Then I would replace the needles to factory settings, seal the high-speed needle mount to the carb with some gasket sealer (just a little, you do not want it to clog the needle) and then seal the carb to the engine case with the same sealer. Also, I would check the engine backplate for debris, and then seal it as well to the engine block. Finally, I would just put a new gas tank on it just to be safe and I think your problem will be solved. You should not have to buy a new cooling head to get the engine to run properly. Good luck.

2) Wheeliejato: I ahve not gotten to try out the pipe yet. As soon as I do, I will post. Thanks though, I am happy with how it looks on there.

XR

I had a choice between the THS and the Trinity, the trinity works nice but is so loud, i wish i would have bought the other one to try em both

orange150
12-01-2005, 01:20 PM
hey, new here with my Revo arriving tomorrow. I am super excited and ready to drive it. I plan on getting rid of the Traxxas radio for a Futaba one I already have for my boat, is that a good or bad idea? I know the Futaba is only 2 channel but I plan on getting rid of reverse anyway. Also are there any weather proof servos available? When my 2.5 gives I plan on running the O.S. .18 TZ or the Sirio .23. Anything else yall recomend?

TRXrevoRacerOS18
12-01-2005, 06:16 PM
hey, new here with my Revo arriving tomorrow. I am super excited and ready to drive it. I plan on getting rid of the Traxxas radio for a Futaba one I already have for my boat, is that a good or bad idea? I know the Futaba is only 2 channel but I plan on getting rid of reverse anyway. Also are there any weather proof servos available? When my 2.5 gives I plan on running the O.S. .18 TZ or the Sirio .23. Anything else yall recomend?

The radio should be fine, as long as the reciever is the same type and uses the same conenctions. The .18tm by O.S. or TM323 from RB are both very exceptional drop in motors, so you wont have to modify anything to put them in. The rb is way more than enough power, so if you want to smoke your tires off get one of those, and the os 18tm is very quick too, but the final dicision is up to you, i race small block monsters at my track and the os 18tm works very nice

TXTRCR
12-02-2005, 08:25 PM
ive got a hot motor as well, lol good old traxxas. it sounded fine when i started it up i was revin it up to get it warmed up. after about 20 feet or so i heard it lean out. i made a couple of runs down the street to get the motor up to temp. had a nice thick trail of smoke throughout the entire run. i pulled it up to where i was standing and shot the glow plug area with my raytec temp gun and got a reading of 325f. it was running fine before i think maybe the fuel lid didnt snap on all the way cause there was a little oil trail down the side of the fuel tank that i noticed when i was pulling the fuel out of it to put it up for the night. im gonna run it again this weekend and see whats going on with it. it didnt even break 200 during break in or 250 after break in it was just that day something came loose i guess.

XR Mugen
12-03-2005, 09:57 AM
You know, I read somewhere that if the Traxxas motor does not hit a normal operating temp like 250, 260 or so during break-in that it will not break in properly. How is the motor now ?



ive got a hot motor as well, lol good old traxxas. it sounded fine when i started it up i was revin it up to get it warmed up. after about 20 feet or so i heard it lean out. i made a couple of runs down the street to get the motor up to temp. had a nice thick trail of smoke throughout the entire run. i pulled it up to where i was standing and shot the glow plug area with my raytec temp gun and got a reading of 325f. it was running fine before i think maybe the fuel lid didnt snap on all the way cause there was a little oil trail down the side of the fuel tank that i noticed when i was pulling the fuel out of it to put it up for the night. im gonna run it again this weekend and see whats going on with it. it didnt even break 200 during break in or 250 after break in it was just that day something came loose i guess.

Tighty Whitey
12-05-2005, 11:05 AM
I broke my Revo in this weekend and in the process of just messing around (no abuse) I found my servo was not engaging reverse even at a stand still. I am truely confused why as well.

Any one else with the same issue?



Thanks

savagepicco26
12-05-2005, 05:55 PM
I broke my Revo in this weekend and in the process of just messing around (no abuse) I found my servo was not engaging reverse even at a stand still. I am truely confused why as well.

Any one else with the same issue?



Thanks
i think the blue light on the optidrive has to be out. if it's on at a standstill, roll the truck till it goes out. if that doesn't do that, your optidrive is probably bad. never had it happen to me, so i could be wrong. maybe someone else will weigh in.

TXTRCR
12-05-2005, 08:19 PM
i must have gotten a peice of trash under the fuel tank lid that day that it ran hot. i ran it every day this passed weekend for several hours and it ran a solid 260 all weekend. it veried from 245 to 259 depending on the surface i was driving on. all seems to be ok now.

so far the only breakage ive had is scratches and dents in the body and in the front and rear bumpers. and the flywheel chewed the ground wire in two that was entertaining. i thought it was the curse of the old blue glow plug wire.

For the one with reverse not working, is the servo broken will it turn if you connect it to another port on the reciever like swap it with the steering servos or throttle servos. i think the opti drive module can be bypassed simply unplug it and plug the servo in directly just be careful of the forward and reverse switch when driving around. if you accidently hit it in the opposite direction while the truck is in motion. well i dont know what will happen but it probably wont do the gears any good, lol.

Tighty Whitey
12-05-2005, 08:35 PM
Thanks guys...

Savage.... the truck is at a complete stop with the light not on at all.

TXTRCR... I had to MANUALLY move the servo from the reverse setting when all of this happend. Its almost like its not getting any power , but the arm and servo look in perfect shape.

savagepicco26
12-05-2005, 09:11 PM
Thanks guys...

Savage.... the truck is at a complete stop with the light not on at all.

TXTRCR... I had to MANUALLY move the servo from the reverse setting when all of this happend. Its almost like its not getting any power , but the arm and servo look in perfect shape.
so the servo's not moving? that makes a difference. cause mine will move sometimes and even though the truck isn't moving, the reverse won't engage even though the servo moved. if the servo's not moving, i'd try swapping the plugs with another servo (throttle or steering) if they move when you flip the reverse switch then the reverse servo's bad. if they don't move, your RX is most likely bad.

Tighty Whitey
12-05-2005, 09:25 PM
sorry but what is the RX? I am new again to the hobby

Tim'sLosi
12-05-2005, 09:36 PM
sorry but what is the RX? I am new again to the hobby
RX=Radio receiver
TX= Radio Transmitter
Xtal=Crystal

Tighty Whitey
12-05-2005, 09:52 PM
Thanks Tim

but why just that one part of the rx and not all the functions(sterring,brake,throttle)

TXTRCR
12-05-2005, 10:01 PM
check the wires, the plug going into the reciever, and try pluging a servo into the port for the reverse servo to see if the port is still working, it could be as simple as a bad servo or a broken power or ground wire in the servo harness. not to uncommon for the silver prongs to slide out of the black plastic connector that goes into the receiver or reverse module(opti drive) thingie.< hows that for technical terminology, lol.

Tighty Whitey
12-05-2005, 10:33 PM
I switched the trottle port into the shiffting port and the throttle worked using the red button on the transmitter so if I am thinking correctly the servo is bad. or am I looking at this wrong and the reciever is bad?

savagepicco26
12-05-2005, 10:45 PM
I switched the trottle port into the shiffting port and the throttle worked using the red button on the transmitter so if I am thinking correctly the servo is bad. or am I looking at this wrong and the reciever is bad?
yep, your reverse servo is bad.

Tighty Whitey
12-05-2005, 11:16 PM
yep, your reverse servo is bad.


thanks savage, found one on ebay for .99 plus shipping. ;)

RevoMaster
12-06-2005, 09:13 AM
thanks savage, found one on ebay for .99 plus shipping. ;)

I couldn't really tell if you tried this yet or not. Try bypassing the optidrive and plug the servo into the RX directly. If the servo works then you might need to reprogram the optidrive or it may be faulty.

savagepicco26
12-06-2005, 06:08 PM
I couldn't really tell if you tried this yet or not. Try bypassing the optidrive and plug the servo into the RX directly. If the servo works then you might need to reprogram the optidrive or it may be faulty.
yeah, that might be a possibility too. didn't really think about that. you'd have to plug the throttle servo into the output of the optidrive to verify if they optidrive was working. all we did before was verify that the RX was working.

t9dragon
12-06-2005, 06:13 PM
IMO, I would just take the Opti-Drive out.

Tighty Whitey
12-06-2005, 07:12 PM
I couldn't really tell if you tried this yet or not. Try bypassing the optidrive and plug the servo into the RX directly. If the servo works then you might need to reprogram the optidrive or it may be faulty.


just got home and tried that and it still did not work

savagepicco26
12-06-2005, 08:20 PM
just got home and tried that and it still did not work
okay, then you're servo is most likely bad.

Tighty Whitey
12-13-2005, 10:38 AM
Ok my new servo came in. I replaced the servo and now when I turn the truck on it will automatically shift into reverse and will not shift into forward. I tried to reverse the switch on the TQ3 but that still does not work. Does anyone have any ideas that could help me out.

t9dragon
12-13-2005, 12:31 PM
What radio are you using?

Tighty Whitey
12-13-2005, 12:34 PM
What radio are you using?


TQ3, rtr radio

t9dragon
12-13-2005, 12:41 PM
Did you try plugging the servo directly into the receiver?

Tighty Whitey
12-13-2005, 12:43 PM
Did you try plugging the servo directly into the receiver?


I did that before I bought a new oem servo and the reciever was working.

t9dragon
12-13-2005, 01:30 PM
Did you try it with the new servo? It sounds like the Opti Drive is acting up.

Tighty Whitey
12-13-2005, 01:56 PM
I did not try with the new one but I will when I get home

t9dragon
12-13-2005, 02:13 PM
Do you have instant messaging?