Tamiya TLT-1 1/18 Monster Truck - ***NEW PICS***

[Sync]

thanks guys,

ya the SW2 chassis is great. it was so easy to put together.

[jocktheglide165]

what chassis is that I like it cause its higher than stock setup....also how did you mount the batteires...

[Sync]

it is the SW2 chassis from:
http://bendercustoms.com/

actually, the chassis is shorter than the shock chassis. i think it looks higher because of how long the links and shocks are. with the lay down pede tranny, the center of gravity is lower than the stock chassis.

the battery is mounted on the front servo and rests on the upper links. i use a zip tie to lightly wrap the battery to the front servo and a piece of velcro on the battery and servo to keep it from falling off. this allows the battery to move around when the suspension articulates. also, the purpose of the battery mounted to the servo is to add weight to the front end and to lower the center of gravity. this allows the truck to climb over steep inclines much easier.

you can see how the battery is mounted from here:
http://teeceetee.com/tltbuild/pics/flex2.jpg

[cfjan]

What kind of drive shaft did you use? It looks like it is telescoping type?

[tlt-crawler]

What kind of drive shaft did you use? It looks like it is telescoping type?

i beleive it is a modded maxx shaft. it was probabally cut short. revo shafts can be used like that as well, but they tend to be a bit of overkill for that size of a truck...

[cfjan]

i beleive it is a modded maxx shaft. it was probabally cut short. revo shafts can be used like that as well, but they tend to be a bit of overkill for that size of a truck...


Revo shaft takes 6mm shaft.. I think the TLT axle has a 5mm output shaft.. I have seen people drilling out Revo yoke to go over the whole TLT outdrive cup.. just seems like a messier solution.. (strong, I guess, with the big Revo shaft!) Revo shaft is actually too big if you continue to mount the links on the stock location (at the tranny side..)

I am looking for alternatives, for sure!

[Sync]

ya...a revo shaft would be a lot of work to get working between the stampede tranny and TLT axles. and, ya, it may bind or rub on the links during articulation.

The shafts that i use are modifed stampede sliders. i used 2 sets of shafts to create the one set that you see.

i cut about 3/4 inch off of the end of an outter shaft. then i cut the yoke end off of an inner shaft and glued it to the inside of the cut outter shaft and left about 1 inch of the inner shaft sticking out.

then the modified piece can be inserted into the longer, uncut outter slider. depending on your application (how long of a wheelbase you want) you can make a drive shaft up to about 5 inches long.

from the following picture, you can see that the left side of the shaft is the cut and glued part and the right side of the shaft is the uncut outter slider.
http://teeceetee.com/tltbuild/pics/driveshaft1.jpg

[cfjan]

the shafts are modifed stampede sliders. i used 2 sets of shafts to create the one set that you see.

i cut about 3/4 inch off of the end of an outter shaft. then i cut the yoke end off of an inner shaft and glued it to the inside of the cut outter shaft and left about 1 inch of the inner shaft sticking out.

then the modified piece can be inserted into the longer, uncut outter slider. depending on your application (how long of a wheelbase you want) you can make a drive shaft up to about 5 inches long.

from the following picture, you can see that the left side of the shaft is the cut and glued part and the right side of the shaft is the uncut outter slider.
http://teeceetee.com/tltbuild/pics/driveshaft1.jpg

Nice.. how are you attaching the shaft to the axle? The yoke takes a 5mm shaft? Direct fit?

My problem is that mine is still pretty much stock wheelbase, so I am not sure if it will fit.. (understand that the length is adjustable, but stock wheelbase is SHORT!) Also, need to figure out how to attach the drive shaft to the tranny side.. (I still have the stock tranny..!!) I guess it will take some experimenting..

[Sync]

i am using these yokes on the TLT axle:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJG59&P=ML

diameter wise, it is a direct fit onto the axle. the grub screws, however, barely bite on axle shaft. what i should have done is cut the 2mm end off of the yoke so that it would slide down farther on the axle shaft. maybe next time :)

on the transmission side i am using these yokes which are designed to mate up to the stampede tranny.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJJ77&P=ML

ya... i am not sure how you would mate up a drive shaft on the stock tranny.
i guess you would have to create/find a shaft that had a 5mm end with a hole to screw in the yoke.

http://teeceetee.com/tltbuild/pics/built18.jpg

http://teeceetee.com/tltbuild/pics/links4.jpg

[Sync]

BTW, you can view my entire build up (with some how-to's) on my web site:
http://teeceetee.com/tltbuild/

[cfjan]

Nice build up and write up! I definitely see the knuckles flex.. (I have metal gear high torque servo at both end as well..) So the aluminum knuckles is definitely in the plan.. (where did you get yours? I am thinking about getting mine from www.rcmart.com from Hong Kong..)

I think I also need some new shocks.. the stock TLT shocks are not as good as I'd like...

Need to extend the rear links longer and then put on those drive shafts.... !!

[Sync]

i got the knuckles from here:
http://inetrc.com/shopping/html/shopping_home.cfm

they are $60 shipped for 4. after i bought them, however, i found knuckles for cheaper else where. but, like where you found them, they were coming from other countries. INetRC is in los angeles so i got them in 1 day.

for shocks, i highly recommend an aluminum threaded shock such as these
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXHSR4

they are kind of expensive for shocks, but you never have to worry about getting the right springs again. if the spring is too stiff, then you just screw the spring stop at the top to loosen the tension. and vise-versa if the spring is too loose. it makes it really easy to tune your suspension. (and they look cool :) )

[cfjan]

i got the knuckles from here:
http://inetrc.com/shopping/html/shopping_home.cfm

they are $60 shipped for 4. after i bought them, however, i found knuckles for cheaper else where. but, like where you found them, they were coming from other countries. INetRC is in los angeles so i got them in 1 day.

for shocks, i highly recommend an aluminum threaded shock such as these
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXHSR4

they are kind of expensive for shocks, but you never have to worry about getting the right springs again. if the spring is too stiff, then you just screw the spring stop at the top to loosen the tension. and vise-versa if the spring is too loose. it makes it really easy to tune your suspension. (and they look cool :) )


Thanks! I think I will be patient and wait for the shippment from oversea.. (on a budget here!)

Regarding the shocks, yeah, those ones you linked to is pretty expensive! But I do agree that the threaded type is nice as you can adjust the pre-load easily.. (although, it is no substitution for changing spring (as you don't change the spring rate), but it is better than nothing for sure!)

Thanks again!!

[Sync]

i added a write up of lowering the center of gravity and adding wheel weights to an already glued tire (bottom of page):
http://teeceetee.com/tltbuild/

also, made a video of some crawling at the beach near where i live (its ~70mb so it might be easier to download it to watch it: right click->Save Target As...):
http://teeceetee.com/tltbuild/video/beach/beach.avi

enjoy :)

[Tomka]

I ran my TLT yesterday and noticed a strange noise while accelerating. I held the truck with the wheels off the ground and applied throttle. I got some severe chattering in the drivetrain that appeared to come from the front and/or rear diff. When I built it, I locked only the center diff.

I took the rear diff apart and everything looks good. Is this chattering normal?

I think it was Pudder who said a while back that adding one small bevel gear to the front or rear diff would lock it. Anyone tried it? Does it hurt the steering quite a bit? I plan to order a new bevel gear kit from Tamiya.

[cfjan]

It is probably due to the angle on the center drive shaft (dogbone and drive cups)

It helps a lot to change to universal drive...

[Tomka]

I'm waiting for parts right now. Today, I noticed the center drive cups are worn pretty bad from the dogbones. Maybe that's where the chattering is coming from.

What do you mean 'change to universal drive'? Are you talking about omitting the cups and bones and replacing them with something like MIP CVDs? If so, does someone make them for the TLT? Does MIP?

Have you locked your front and rear diffs?

[cfjan]

Yeah, exactly.. you can wear those drive cups down pretty quickly when you locked your center diff! (I did that to mine as well!)

No, I did not lock the front / rear diff.. since I am not building a crawler.. you can easily do that by swap the 3rd diff gear between the 2..

Yeah, I have titanium universal drive on the rear of my TLT.. it is much smoother.. BUT, one of the pins is kind of small.. so it actually wears as well.. (although, last longer than the drive cups.. :P)

But yeah, if you go to eBay, and search for Tamiya TLT, you will see a bunch of those Ti universal drives.. although it does not completely fix the problem as the tranny side is still dogbone + drivecup..

Ideally, you want to convert both side to universal drive.. and you can do that by doing some creative work.. some people use the driveshaft from other trucks..

Good luck!!

[cfjan]

I think these heavy duty steering links might look kind of funny on the TLT... (they are 0.275" in diameter..)

That's a 540 size motor heatsink next to the links for size comparison..

[cfjan]

Didn't want to wait for the aluminum steering knuckles, so I put the skid and the steering links on first..

Looks beefy.. :D

I also added a spacer on the connecting link to dial in some toe-out for the front for sharper turning.. while the back is stock length which gives a slight toe-in..

[cfjan]

Didn't lose much ground clerance (maybe a couple of mm) under the axle either.. it is not bad. I guess if I really want, I can bend the skid a little more so it is closer to the axle...

Overall, not too bad...

[tlt-crawler]

i wouldn't be surprised if that chattering noise is your pinion in your axles, i had that noise, and after a bit of shiming with some e-clips, it was fixed. also if you are using the stock plastic bushings, get rid of those things!! they wear pretty quickly, and create a lot of slop in the axles. and when these axles get sloppy, the gears go, AND FAST!!! trust me, these gears inside these things are strong (except for that POS belt drive main gearbox..) if they are taken care of...

[cfjan]

With some elbow grease, the TopCAD TA05 aluminum knuckles fit just fine.. I was sent the wrong color, though, doh!! (wanted 2 pairs of silver, but got 1 pair of silver and 1 pair of gunmetal instead..)

[cfjan]

You can see the difference in color here.. but oh well.. time to put the rear axle onto the chassis!

[cfjan]

Looking good!

Front w/ skid plate...

[cfjan]

Back w/ links exposed... hopefully they won't get damaged without any bumper / skid plate during bashing! :P

[evad1]

What dog bones is eveyone using, someone told me to get the CEN ones but I dont' have a part # and I'm tired of second guessing and getting the worng parts. Can you guys help me out PLEASE! it's driving me nuts.

Also what would be a good servo with enough torque to pull MOAB's?

Scott

P.S this is my first post!!!!!!!

[pyro18t]

Yeah will someone please answer him he's driving me nuts asking me questions about rock crawling!!!!!

I'm a 1/10 On-road guy, the only rocks that I know about are the ones getting stuck in my gears!

[awnelson]

sorry to hear that your nuts are getting stuck in your teeth, but you could at least help him out instead of posting that you don't really know anything about what is being discussed.

Scott,

Take the time to read all the previous pages, learn to use the search button and as far as servos go, I use a cheap futaba like the 3003's that you see in some of the pictures on my TLT-1; on my TXT-1 I use JR650's with 40 series tires but I don't think they were worth the $100 to purchase.

[pyro18t]

sorry to hear that your nuts are getting stuck in your teeth, but you could at least help him out instead of posting that you don't really know anything about what is being discussed.

Scott,

Take the time to read all the previous pages, learn to use the search button and as far as servos go, I use a cheap futaba like the 3003's that you see in some of the pictures on my TLT-1; on my TXT-1 I use JR650's with 40 series tires but I don't think they were worth the $100 to purchase.

Na I've been helping him, I was kinda posting on here just to razz Scott a bit LOL :p .

awnelson, thanks for your help I'll let him know that you responded and to read through the forum for some more info.

J

[tamiya4x4dryver]

What battery options do you have with a stock TLT-1 Rockbuster, other than that Tamiya triangle pack?

I was thinking on the someone had made a stand up 3+3 brick of sub-c cells? I could make that easily enough, but wouldn't that be a lot of weight up high all at the rear of the truck??

I also thought I heard of someone using like a RC18T 7.2 volt pack, but remember reading something about it got way overheated, even with the silvercan motor??

Since Ultimate had them back on sale again I picked up one for laughs, but it will be a long time before I mod it because I have some other projects going on. Probably just going to goof around with it in my Parents big asphalt driveway..... Couldn't see spending $35 on that weird little Tamiya triangle pack.

[Tomka]

There are lots of battery options. Your imagination is the only limit. I think it was Pudder that came up with the 3-over-3 pack. It worked for him. The main reason I enjoy driving the TLT is the wheelies. My yard doesn't offer any real crawling opportunities. So, I do lots of wheelies. That's why I run a Maxamps 8000mah 2-cell Li-po battery. It is about the same size as a 6-cell sub C pack. Width wise, it fits between the chassis side plates. But it is a little too long to fit in the battery compartment. I let the back end of the pack rest on the battery tray. The front rests on the diff support that is at the front of the battery compartment. I use a strip of rubber on top of the diff support to protect the battery pack. I also cut a piece of dense foam into a wedge shape to support the entire battery. The wedge sits on top of the battery tray. I use one of the zip ties included with the kit to secure the whole mess. It works great. In fact, it wheelies so good, I installed a New Era wheelie bar! You could also use the same setup for a Nimh or Nicad stick pack as I often do.

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Great post Tomka, thank you!

[Mini-TBasher55]

What dog bones is eveyone using, someone told me to get the CEN ones but I dont' have a part # and I'm tired of second guessing and getting the worng parts. Can you guys help me out PLEASE! it's driving me nuts.

Also what would be a good servo with enough torque to pull MOAB's?

Scott

P.S this is my first post!!!!!!!

The CEN Racing ones are the MT2 Rear Dogbones. They are $13 and part #FF045. If you have any spare dogbones or CVD's that are 95-98mm they will work too. If you need a guide for making a TLT-1 into a 1/10 Scale crawler, check out the June 2005 RC Car Action.

[pudder]

I used T3 dogbones with MGT turnbuckles and it worked without any extra spacers.

[cfjan]

Did some updates on the TLT, figured I'd post some pics..

Changed out the rear shocks to those from my Dark Impact buggy.. bigger and stiffer, should take out a big part of that torque roll under power..

Not as pretty, but should work better! :D

[cfjan]

I had to move the spur cover a little bit to clear the new shocks, but everything fits fine right now!

[cfjan]

Really need to find a new longer center drive shaft w/ universal joints and make some longer links to extend out the rear.. then I am done... (maybe... hee hee!)

[pudder]

I took my TLT out the other day finally after about a year. Put the stock tires on it and lowered my body for a 'scale' look, was pretty fun to drive around too. I got some pics for later...

[cfjan]

Looking forward to some pics!! :)

[jchung]

cfjan, nice TLT there, very clean look :)

[cfjan]

Thanks! Yeah, I tried to keep it somewhat stock (tranny, chassis, wheelbase) But I do find that I want to extend the rear so it does not flip over as easily when climbing over stuff.. so I plan to extend the rear 4 bars by maybe 2" or so...

Other than that, it still go the stock belt drive!! It is riding on the Wild Willy rear wheels / tires, though, so they are 115mm tires..

[jchung]

Here's another TLT I've been playing around with. I've read a lot about the "torsion" type chassis and want to try it out. But instead of using aluminum angle, I used a piece of lexan. It is just strong enough to flex a little, but not too much. I had to add some stiffeners (made links) to reduce the lateral flex. Overall, I am happy with the outcome. A nice simple chassis that I am not afraid to run hard since I can always make another one. I tried to keep the wheelbase short because I didn't quite want to go to 10th scale. I think at the moment, it is slightly longer if not the same as a stock PTI goliath (I am using the same body on the PTI).

I've since been playing around with the setup, right now the battery is sitting on the bottom piece and the ESC and receiver is sitting on the top.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/TLTflex.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/TLTplate.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/TLTplate2.jpg

[cfjan]

Cool.. from the first picture, I wouldn't have expect it to have that kind of flex at all!! Very surprising!! :o

[jchung]

Haha, I am quite surprised it even worked! :p
I will soon have another project in the next few weeks involving a non 10th scale TLT, not much of those nowadays :o

BTW, I have this pic in this thread somewhere of my first TLT, I will have some updated pictures soon, got some new tires for it, just need the wheels. ;)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/TLTtuber.jpg

[cfjan]

That looks great.. did you build the chassis yourself?

[jchung]

nope, I don't have the skills to do that. It was built by John Boyer. :cool:

[cfjan]

Put the Jato yokes on my TLT (rear).. waiting for the shaft to show up and then I will extend the links.. should be much more stable after I am done.. (instead of keep on flipping over! :D)

[cfjan]

These will go between those yokes.. looks pretty good.. the telescoping part of the shaft is covered w/ the rubber boots.. nice, eh! :rolleyes:

[Tomka]

Cool! Looks good cfjan. Do you think those Jato shafts could be cut down to work without extending the wheel base? Or will they bind? I'd like to lose the stock dogbones and drive cups.

[cfjan]

I think it might be hard as the stock wheelbase is so short.. and the universals from the Jato shafts push the actual shaft to an even shorter length..

I'd guess not..

I plan to run the full Jato shaft length... :D The TLT needs that stability anyway.. (I have Wild Willy tires on.. they are 115mm diameter.. quite a bit bigger than the stock TLT tires..)

[jchung]

Start of a new project... :cool:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/tube1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/tube2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/tube4.jpg

[cfjan]

Wow, that looks so cool.. did you make the cage?! How did you do it?! :rolleyes:

[jchung]

lol nope, same person that built my other frame, John Boyer made it. :p

[cfjan]

Some update on my TLT...

Made some links and extend the rear a little bit..

[cfjan]

Some articulation shots!! :D

[cfjan]

Yeah, I kept the cantilever cause I like to keep it as TLT as possible, yet still extend its capability a little bit..

The front is now a little bit lower.. hmm.. I am debating if I should do the front as well.. got all the parts.. just not sure if I want to make a TLT so huge.. LOL! :D

[jchung]

cjfan, I have a question for you. Does the junfac thicker steering links work as a rear lockout too? I am thinking about ordering 2 of them bumpers and a set of steering links, but not sure how the lockout will work. Thanks! :)

[cfjan]

You might have clearance issue with those fat links.. right now, I have both links on top of the steering knuckle arms.. (which is good, better ground clearance!) but that's only possible because the upper link is connecting to the servo..

The lock out screw hole on the skid is pretty low..

I am sure they work fine with the stock skinny links, but I don't think it would fit..

You don't want to run 4WS?!

[jchung]

I am not sure, maybe I will go with 4WS then. So you mean with 4WS, the fat links work with the bumpers too?

[cfjan]

Yup, that's what I have.. take a look at my pic above.. I have the skid and the fat links.. you just need to move both links above the steering knuckle arms.. (the stock setup is one on top, one on the bottom, right? Don't remember..)

But yeah, it should fit okay.. I am running it!

[jchung]

Thanks cj! :)

[cgboone]

Hi. I'm new to the site and joined after getting frustrated with a very slippery center differential on the TLT-1. I read that JB Weld is a good way to lock the center diff. Should I remove the ball bearings or do I have to leave them in for spacing? Also, can I remove the little spring between the nut and screw that hold the diff together? Thanks for your help.

[cfjan]

Ball bearings or the diff balls? I left the diff ball in there to keep the propaer spacing, but replace the ballbearings w/ some left over brass bushings (hey, if you are locking it, why waste the nice ball bearings?!)

Yeah, JB Weld is strong.. once it is done, there's not going back!

[cgboone]

Ball bearings or the diff balls? I left the diff ball in there to keep the propaer spacing, but replace the ballbearings w/ some left over brass bushings (hey, if you are locking it, why waste the nice ball bearings?!)

Yeah, JB Weld is strong.. once it is done, there's not going back!

I meant the differential balls, but that is a good point about the ball bearings, too! Thanks for the advice. Any thoughts on whether I need to leave in the small differential spring that goes between the nut and the machine screw?

[hyperstang]

I heard that ThunderTech was going to make a ripper chassis for the TLT??

Anyone know if this is true or not, I not to crafty to make my own kine roll cage.

[cfjan]

I left the diff balls in it just so it gives the proper spacing..

Or you can just convert the whole thing into gear diff, and lock that... ($10-15 in parts?) I did that..

Spring, you don't need it.. but makes no difference as now the 2 sides are glued together... :)


I meant the differential balls, but that is a good point about the ball bearings, too! Thanks for the advice. Any thoughts on whether I need to leave in the small differential spring that goes between the nut and the machine screw?

[cfjan]

That would be cool!! Keep us posted!!


I heard that ThunderTech was going to make a ripper chassis for the TLT??

Anyone know if this is true or not, I not to crafty to make my own kine roll cage.

[jchung]

When did you hear about this?

There was a rumor a year or two back about this. But I believe Thundertech never confirm this themselves.

BUT, if they do, I will get one for sure. :D

[hyperstang]

Well....NOT that long ago. I did ask thundertech when I bought my TLT-1. On another website, Thundertech did explain that they only had a couple of side plates and some other things, but that time, they were working on the Ripper Pro..I think

[jchung]

Here is where I read it. It is *almost* 2 years ago. ;)
http://www.clodtalk.com/viewtopic.php?t=11823

I started my own little project a while ago. Design is based on the TXT chassis and the Tremor chassis cage part. This is just a mock up picture. When I have time to do the chassis posts, it will be more 3D. I also have to design the rear part too. :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/MH4.jpg

Btw, here is an update of my Mini Monster Replica TLT. Added some alloy goodies and also fitted a new tire on it. :cool:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/tltroll1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/tltroll2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/MH1.jpg

[cgboone]

I left the diff balls in it just so it gives the proper spacing..

Or you can just convert the whole thing into gear diff, and lock that... ($10-15 in parts?) I did that..

Spring, you don't need it.. but makes no difference as now the 2 sides are glued together... :)

Thanks -- used the JB Weld and it works MUCH better! Only one thing left that's nagging me. The steering servo keeps shifting out of place. I've tried tigethening the screw but any time I hit something, the neutral position shifts to the left or right. Should I remove the servo saver rings or are there other fixes? (Just as an aside, I have built 2 tamiya vehicles -- 1 car and 1 buggy -- before and this is the only one that has given me problems.)

[cfjan]

See my pics above.. I run Kimbrough servo saver.. they are very stiff.. I got the one specific for metal gear servo only.. so only get them if you have metal gear servo.. or you will strip the servo gears...

[Ryan Lane]

Hey guys. I couldn't stand it any more and had to pick one up. I am going to build it stock just to enjoy that tamiya build. I will quickly up grade with extended 4 links and drive shafts. I am going to install bearings as I go, so it won't be completely stock. I am going to start the transmission and chassis plates tonight. I have to wait on the axles as my bearings are on their way from Boca as we speak. I try to include a few picks here and there as I go. Feel free to include any advice and suggestions as I go.
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/P1150014.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/P1150013.jpg

[cfjan]

Congrats!! Keep us posted w/ your build!!

[Ryan Lane]

I got started on the transmission and chassis plates last night. I must say that the parts are nice and fit together well. I was disappointed though at the plastic used in the transmission. The plastic plates seem to be a bit soft and flexible for thier intended use. I saw the nice blue aluminum plates but I can't drop that kind of money on a play truck that is about to undergo many custom mods as it is. Other wise this seems to be a nice little truck. Got to throw in some pics even though I know you guys have all seen these before.
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC00950.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC00953.jpg

Here are a couple shots of the chassis and transmission together. I know that isn't a hot mod or a 65 turn lathe motor. This project will be an ultimate basher not a purpose built machine.
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC00954.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC00955.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC00956.jpg

I know I used the bronze bushings in the cantilevers. I have bearings on the way to replace them, should be in on Friday.

Well the kids went to bed and my wife was with the baby watching tv so I decided to build one axle. I know I don't have bearings yet, but I had some nice rubber seal boca's setting on a project FX10 that isn't done yet so I "stole" six from it. I like the all metal diffs, should be nice and tough. I built them stock with grease, I will probably go for anit-wear grease or even a lock up with some hot glue later. I really like these solid axles, they are the centerpiece of the truck.
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC00957.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC00958.jpg

And a random one of the donor FX10
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC00959.jpg

[Ryan Lane]

Things seem a bit slow in here. Sorry I have waited so long to update, it has been busy. I will jump to the end. I got it together and made a few test runs. I have not painted the body as I have not decided on whether I will go with the box art or my own look. The LHS was low on paint choices last weekend so I will go for another look this weekend. I am over all pleased with the little truck. I do seem to have some sort of drag in the drive train. I played with the pinion/spur mesh to no avail. I may need to file the chassis some around the belt. It may also be that I haven't dealt with a stock motor in so long that I am not used to it. It just feels like it has a drag brake when I let off the throttle. PICS!

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC00977.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC00978.jpg

The big flex shot:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC00979.jpg

I started looking at mods. I have some hollow carbon fiber rod and 4-40 threaded rod. I think I will use it to make lower links and then use the stock lower links to make upper links. I eye balled some traxxas sliders for new drive shafts, I just have to decide how I want to go about mounting them. I am thinking of using a Rubicon or Land Cruiser body and stock tire and wheels. I will update when there are some changes.

[cfjan]

Looks good!! Need to put the spur gear cover on, though!! Don't want dirt to get in there from the side....

[cianhanrahan]

here's my TLT based Trail truck, it's still a work in progress though. I'm using Junfac Tracer plates and links. I've locked the ball diff with hot glue, and packed the gear diffs with Tamiya AW grease.
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/3982/dsc000690bj.th.jpg (http://img213.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc000690bj.jpg) http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/2131/dsc000705as.th.jpg (http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc000705as.jpg) http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/4350/dsc000718eo.th.jpg (http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc000718eo.jpg) http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/4567/dsc000722hl.th.jpg (http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc000722hl.jpg) http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/6715/dsc000679cj.th.jpg (http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc000679cj.jpg)
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/2166/dsc000580te.th.jpg (http://img171.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc000580te.jpg) http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/2575/dsc000579kv.th.jpg (http://img171.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc000579kv.jpg) http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/8610/dsc000548rb.th.jpg (http://img152.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc000548rb.jpg) http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/3920/dsc000523bn.th.jpg (http://img99.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc000523bn.jpg)

[cfjan]

Looks good! But won't grease just get squeezed out of the diff? I tried to pack as much grease in there as possible and it just got squeezed out after a run.. ha!

I am currently locking the rear, while the front still open..

Haven't worked on my TLT for awhile, though.. ha!!

[Ryan Lane]

I thought about painting the gear cover silver, so as to "camoflage" the spur gear.

cian- those look like the tires off of the Tamiya S10/Ranger, but what rims are those?

[cianhanrahan]

gfjan, the anti wear grease is funny stuff, it's a lot thicker than the usual ball diff or ceramic grease, I won't know how good it really is till I give it a few shakedown runs. I'll use silly putty if it doesn't work, and if the silly putty doesn't work, then I'll replace the gearbox with a stampede of EMaxx tranny, and lock the diffs completely.

Ryan those tyres are Tamiya's BF Goodrich, I know they came with the Pajero and some of the XC trucks, there's a good chance they were used on the S10/Ranger as well, there aren't many 1.9 tyres around!

The rims were originally from a Tamiya Lancia 037 Kit, http://tamiyaclub.com/car.asp?id=283# they are just a little talller than standard touring car wheels, I think they look great as truck wheels. Originally i was going to use them with a VW corrado chassis,
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/5250/dsc000126jx.th.jpg (http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/5250/dsc000126jx.jpg)http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/7440/dsc000158hx.th.jpg (http://img329.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc000158hx.jpg)
but that's another story!

[compression]

Hello all. I was just wondering if the i should get the tlt rockbuster or max climber? I heard that other that the revision to allow the use of flat battery packs, there were also other modifications that improve the handling of the max climber over the rockbuster.

In the 1st page of this thread there was mention of this japanese hobby store called ishiimokei. They are selling the max climber for a cheaper price than the rockbuster. Anyone knows why? Shoudl I order my TLT from them? Or can someone suggest an online shop with a good price?

Thanks!

[cfjan]

Usually Max is more $$$ than Rockbuster.. So most people just get the Rockbuster.. as you can still make a stick pack fit onto the Rockbuster anyway..

(and without paying 2x as much for the kit!)

They are almost identical except the black chassis.. no real improvement as you stated.. the early Rockbuster has a slightly weaker axle, but that has been phased out.. they should have identical units now..

Also, Max Climber has been discontinued..

[compression]

Ah ok. Then I think I'll stick with the Rockbuster and do some mods like the rest have done!

BTW, is this the Revo shaft that everyone is raving about?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHFY1&P=7

These shafts can be used for both the TLT and TXT?

Ok actually I want to get both the TLT and TXT at the same time. Just scouting around parts that's I'd need before I finally buy the trucks and assemble them. Do keep a lookout for my pics when I assemble the 2 trucks together!

[cfjan]

Yeah, those are REVO shaft...

I have both TXT and TLT.. they are great! Ha!!

[compression]

you won't be the only saying that you have both the tlt and the txt for long....

wait till i get mine! *evil laughter muahahahahahahaha*

oh btw the revo shafts can be used for both tlt and txt without modifications? Do I need to get yokes too?

[cfjan]

Need yokes.. for TXT, it uses 6mm shaft, so fit without modification.. (w/ the Revo yokes) But for TLT, I'd suggest you use the Jato shaft, as the yokes are 5mm instead of 6mm..

[compression]

this has turned into a 2-person conversation... say what do you do? how is it that you are able to reply so quickly?! must be because it's friday.

i'm in france now btw.

[cfjan]

work in the financial world.. have dual panel 20" LCDs at work.. so I can do work and monitoring (joke) my RC activities at the same time!! :D

[compression]

why is it that i actually believe that you have twin 20" LCD panels and that you are really using one of them to monitor the activities on this forum??? :confused:

so this the list of stuff I'm going to get for my TXT.
-ball bearings
-novak super duty ESC with fan kit
-hitec 1/4 scale high-torque servo HS-805BB (for front)
-hitec HS-645MG Metal Gear servo (for rear)
-revo shafts
-new era front and rear skid plates, and centre skid plate
-02 x S-600 motors
-tamiya alumnium axle guards
-tamiya aluminium cantilevers

can you please recommand a good (and cheap) 3-channel radio? thought about the futaba 3pk, but then i'd have to work my butt off.

[cfjan]

Not that hard to believe.. my colleagues in the trading floors have 3-4 20+" LCD at their desk... LOL!

Why not run 1/4th scale servo at the rear too?

Futaba 3PM is not bad...

If you go to the TXT thread, you will see my truck.. pretty much have everything that you listed...

[compression]

oh my!! so YOU are the guru whose truck i was trying to model mine after!!

please allow me to kowtow...

oh what happened to your emaax battery holders? they didn't work?

what Tx are you using btw?

[cfjan]

LOL.. for TXT stuff, you should probably post at TXT thread so it won't be off topic for the TLT thread.. :D

I haven't tried them yet.. Still got them.. those are e-Savage battery holders, not EMaxx..

No easy way of mounting them.. need to make some brackets, I guess..

I have a 3PM and a 3PM Syntheized..

[compression]

ah so... do you realise that I am actually trying my best to leech all your knowledge within this short amount of time that no one else seems to be posting? ahaha.

ok to focus on the tlt... what type of body does the tlt use? i tried to find 1/18 body shells, but my search turned up nothing.

anyway just curious... are your tlt/txt now simply display pieces in your house, or do you actually still run them? i am afraid that after 10 runs or so, i'll get bored of them and just use them as (expensive) decorative pieces...

[cfjan]

Well, I have a bunch of RCs, so they don't get to used much.. but no, I like the TXT a lot and try to run it when I can..

I assume you will modify the TLT? If you stretch it, you will be able to use any of the 1/10th scale truck body.. stock, it is quite short.. you might have a hard time getting a body for it, though...

[compression]

I think the tlt stock is going to be impressive enough. I know for sure i'm going to mod the txt like there's no tomorrow, but for the tlt.. don't really know. Looks kinda cute the way it is.

i can imagine myself and my brother racing the txt and tlt, using the stock yellow and blue body shells. That will look quite funny!

[cfjan]

Like this?! :D

[compression]

sweeeeet............ the tlt body doesn't come pre-painted does it?

[cfjan]

Nope.. the TLT comes w/ a clear lexan body...

[cfjan]

I have heard that Tamiya is releasing TLT-2.. any words / details on that yet?!

Definitely looking forward to that!! :D

[spencercam1]

This is my beast! I have added:
Wild Willy tires & wheels
New Era extended chassis
New era wheelie bar
wheel wideners
Monsters of Touring 15T double wind motor
Novak XRS sport reversible

[hivemind]

Thats a pretty sweet ride my friend. Check out my tlt/txt. I switched out the stock tlt axles for a set of txt axles and mounted the batts. on them to lower cg. I used a set of dogbones from an older nitro mt and like you went with a 15t and mated it to a xrs. Let me know what you think.

[spencercam1]

That's a work of art! How's it running for you? Nice paint job!

[Ryan Lane]

Thought I would bring this one back to life. I have had only limited time lately to work on my TLT. I am going to try and go for a rock crawler that can still bash a bit. I have kept the stock chassis plates. I replaced the center ball diff with a TAO-4 gear diff that has been locked. I tried to use the 9 dollar a tube anti-wear grease in the axles but that wasn't enough so I locked both of them. I am at 11" on the wheel base. I will cover the threaded rod with hollow carbon fiber rod this weekend. There is still plenty to do, and yes I know that the battery plug is a tamiya and the ESC is a deans. I have to stop by the LHS and pick up another Female plug. Here are a few pics. I still have to pick a body. I am using the handy Tamiya 3X3 pack mounted in the front with the receiver and esc in the back. I may mount the battery to the front axle and move the esc to the front. Not sure yet.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/P7160003.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/P7160002.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/P7160001.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/P7160005.jpg

Let me know what you think.

[Flamnpede]

Ryan

What is the length on your rods? ALSo any issues with binding on the uper shock mount?

[Ryan Lane]

I will have to measure the links tonight and I will post it up on Monday. You have to mount those upper shock mounts loose or they will bind. Use a nut with a nylon lock on it and you are good to go. I am thinking of moving that top mount out to the next empty hole. It will raise my ride height but will give me more center clearance. I will have to put the battery on the front axle to lower the CG. I just thought about this also. The links have ball cups on the axle end. The are mounted to Assoc. ball studs that are screwed in the the back holes on the top and bottoem of the axle. I use the stock link mounts on the back of the axles to mount the bottom of the shocks. I will take the wheels off and take a pick of it. I can't remember what the dog bones I am using are from, but I have the header card from the pack at home. I will get that info for you. I am thinking of making some custom drive shafts, but that will have to wait until next weekend as I will be staining the back deck for an open house(LOL, I hate that the housing market has slowed so much).

[Ryan Lane]

Sorry I took so long. Here is what you need. The lower links are 4 3/16" center to center, the upper links are 4 1/4" center to center. the slightly longer uppers roll the axle forward so that the drive cup has a good angle on it. Pics on the mounting locations below( Sorry that they are blurry, I had the old camera and it seems to have issues focusing in on close shots).

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC01080.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC01081.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC01082.jpg

[Flamnpede]

Ryan
You don't by chance remember where those driveshafts came from do you? I'm trying to avoid stealing parts from my stampede. I managed to push my rear axle back to about where yours is with spare turnbuckles I had from my various trucks.

[Ryan Lane]

Pede, they are from the Thunder Shot. Tamiya # 9805551. They are 3" long. You will need to use an o-ring or a piece of fuel tubing in each drive cup to keep the shaft centered. I have a design for a custom drive shaft that would allow for dig, be made of steel, and not require any spacers. I know it can be done with plastic sliders, but I am looking for some thing different.

[jchung]

An update on my project, almost finish!:cool:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/TLTfin2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/TLTfin3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/TLTfin4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/TLTfin5.jpg

[4wdmt]

Wow!!! Look at that mini beauty!!! I am purple with envy, lol :D. Wanna trade with my bruiser J? lol

Question: Are you going to run that custom tlt?

[jchung]

Of course I am going to run it! With Hara 13T, Novak 12T Rooster, 200oz torque servo, batteries going to be matched too. This thing is made for running(carefully).:D

[cfjan]

NICE!

Do you run any servo savers?! (just curious.. hard to tell from the pics..)

[jchung]

Nope, no servo savers here. I just like the purple on the servo horn:p

[cfjan]

It might be dangerous if you hit stuff, though... I'd run some servo saver!

But I want to see a video of this thing run, LOL! Gonna be wild!!

[jchung]

I will definitely run it in an open field, to decrease the chances of hitting anything lol! I can't wait to get this thing moving too. But I think I will add a body for it just to protect the frame during the run.

Anybody know what type of pinions the stock TLT uses? Right now, the stock pinion is on the motor. But I definitely need to gear down for the 13T.

[cfjan]

Should be 48 pitch metric gear... you can get them from Tower..

[jchung]

The stock pinion is a 24T, my motor is a Hara 13 turn, what should I go with the pinion? The lowest seems to be 16T.

Will both of these work on the TLT? I am using the stock transmission.
http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=21415&clist=0,11284,12285
http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=126509&clist=0,11284,12285

[cfjan]

That should work....

[jchung]

Thanks cj, if all else goes as planned, the test run should be on the weekend.;)

[Flamnpede]

Has anyone tried these in the stock drive cups? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=9805551&FVPROFIL=++&search=Go

Just curious.

[Ryan Lane]

Pede, those are the exact drives that I use. That is the same stock number that I posted above.

[Flamnpede]

Sorry guys wrong link.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLBZ9&P=Z It was supposed to be this one.

[Ryan Lane]

I will swing by the LHS this weekend and pick some up. Those might be just right to get a little more wheelbase. I will post on Monday.

[Flamnpede]

I'm wondering if they'll fit in the cups.

[Ryan Lane]

Pede,
I stopped by the LHS on my way home last night. The bad news is that he only had CVD's. The good news is that he let me search through his spare "junk" drawers in the back. I found two slightly used associated dog bones. They are from a T3. I do not know if they are different from the T4's. I can tell you that the tamiya's that I am using are just a hair over 2 3/4" center of pin to center of pin. The T3 bones are 3 1/4" on the dot center of pin to center of pin. The round part of the bones does not fit in the axle drive cup. A small bit of grinding with a dremel would get it in there. Oddly, the T3 bone does fit in the center tranny side, but I am using a locked TAO4 gear diff. It is tight, but it fits. I am thinking of grinding it this weekend and seeing if it will fit. That would get me right out at 12" on the wheel base. I included some photos below. I am sorry for the quality. I used the good camera, I must just suck at taking pictures.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/P8020020.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/P8020019.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/P8020018.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/P8020014.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/P8020013.jpg

[Flamnpede]

Ryan,
I will check my LHS. I ordered the Tamiya shafts already but if the gt2 shafts fit I'm game. The Asc. shaft you have looks like the size of my RC10 buggy which was a hair too big. I would have used it but it's an RC10 original. Then again I could use my stampede but I'm not sure I want to sacrafice that.

[Flamnpede]

Well I looked at the GT2 shafts and the ball looks pretty small. I'm willing to bet they'll fit in the cup. However, I cheated and just bought the Junfac Tracer conversion. I figured by the time I'm done buying what's included in the kit it would be well over the $99.00 I spent on it. here's the link if you haven't looked at one.http://www.junfac.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=3&zenid=b4a15925e9de9f057f757b7c5cb119e1

[Ryan Lane]

The Junfac stuff looks good. I might buy some of their parts. I wish I could just get those extended bones, but I couldn't find them seperate. I will be adding a shell to my project soon. I have spent months trying to decide on a body and could not settle on one. Thanks to RCCA that debate is settled. PeterV has a Proline K5 Blazer heading my way. I will post up picks here and in the rock crawler forum. And if your looking, Thanks Peter and RCCA. Maybe we can get this baby in the readers rides.

[Flamnpede]

Ryan,

Here you go.
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/product.php?productid=16354&cat=251&page=2


You can also buy the conversion without chassis for $65.00

[Ryan Lane]

Thanks Pede, that is just what I needed. I gotta get an order in before the end of the day.

[Flamnpede]

Can't wait to see your new body.

[Flamnpede]

The Junfac bones are 4 inches pin to pin. The are really thick too.:D

[Ryan Lane]

Thanks for the measurement Pede. I made some changes this weekend. I started to lengthen my wheel base to make room for the new Junfac bones. I went with a completely different set up on the 4 links. It does not give me as much articulation, but it is much more scale like now. I don't have the bones or the body just yet, but they should arrive any day now. I will post up some pics as soon as I get it all nailed down. I went ahead and got rid of the front and rear bumpers and relocated the steering link to the top of the knuckles for better approach angles. I can't wait to get it all together.

[Ryan Lane]

Mr. Postman arrived with my first shipment of goodies. These are from the Crawler Store and will take care of the chassis side of things.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/P8130030.jpg

[Flamnpede]

Ryan,

I have been reading about the dogbones. They suggest putting Loc-tite 290 Green on the roll pins to make sure they are extra secure. I have been working on my conversion and so far all is pretty well. I just have a few things to work out. Almost everything in the kit is top-notch quality. One of my biggest issues is going to be mounting the body that was pre-trimmed for a nitro. The hole in the body is exactly where the rear body mounts are.:roll2:

[Ryan Lane]

Well I snuck in some work last night. Only got about 2 hours in. I cut new rod for the 4 links and got it all mounted up. I must have forgot basic math and/or how to read a tape as the wheel base is actually 12.75". How I found that extra 1/8" on each end I don't know. I will trim it out tonight or this weekend. I am waiting on two things to finalize the carbon fiber 4 links. I need the body to arrive and I need some carbon fiber. I only have enough for about 6 links. I am going to go ahead and make some new carbon links for the steering also. I need to mount the shocks differently as the angle is too layed down. The current set up allows the axle too much leverage on the shocks. I am including two "teaser" pics to let you all see my progress. Again I ask your forgiveness on the picks as I must shake like a whacky packer when I hold the camera.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC01091.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/DSC01090.jpg

[Flamnpede]

Ryan came up with what I think is a cool idea for your upper shock mounts. Check this out.They are trinity thrust bearings from Tower. Something like that might work well. You just need to find the right size.
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/tric1014.jpg

[Ryan Lane]

Edit:
Good find Pede. The pick wasn't working for me, so I went and got one. That would work great. Just sandwich that thing in back there and leave it dry. Good old pan car thrust bearing for the diff. Here's the pic for any one else interested.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/thrustbearing.jpg


I will go check those out. I use the brass flanged spacer that is used with the stock set up in the tops of the shocks right now. I then bolt if up in that stock lower mount, put a washer behind it, run a screw trough it, and put a ny-lock nut on the back. It isn't perfect, but it is dern close. I ordered some stuff today. I have some lower tooth pinions, some carbon tube, and some body mounts so I can get that body on once it gets here. You have any pics yet of your progress Pede?

[Flamnpede]

Not yet! I just got the steering figured out last night. The angle on the rear steer made the steering link rub on the servo horn. I have the basic conversion about done now I need to do some minor tweaks. I will try and post pics soon.

[Ryan Lane]

I got in some good work this weekend. I have the lower cabon fiber links and steering links done. The wheel base is still just a hair over 12.5", but if I bring it in the dog bones bind during articulation. I relocated the battery to the front axle. It doesn't look very scale, but it sure has a much lower CG. I have more cabon fiber tube on the way. Here are some picks.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/P8180034.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/rlane1978/P8180029.jpg

[Flamnpede]

Looks pretty good so far. I haven't gotten much time to work on mine recently.As soon as I do I will try and put some pics up.

[Flamnpede]

Well I'm still working on mine! I'm debating to run springs or no springs on the shocks. With springs I get about 6 inches of articulation with very little twist. Without springs I get 7 inches of articulation with some twist. I haven't had a chance to take it out and run around without the springs. However, just from working the suspesion in the house it seems more stable and flexible.The biggest issue I see with this is the lower clearance the bottom of the chassis sits at 2 inches.

[Ryan Lane]

I would look at are you going for all out competition or a play rig. I would drop the springs for comp, but leave them for play. I am going for play. I have a lower center clearance, mostly due to the stock chassis. I looked further into the thrust bearings for my shock mounts. The Trinity ones are too large, but Boca has some that are just right. I think that might be one of those small details that really help out. I am thinking about painting my chassis black like the Max Climber, just not sure yet.

[Flamnpede]

Ryan,

I would see if you could get it powder coated. If you switch to the moabs you will gain a fair amount of clearance.

[jchung]

Took a pic during the run today...love it!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v409/jchung321/tamiyatltforums.jpg

[4wdmt]

wow, at long last J, woohooo!. Wish you had it in vid.

[Flamnpede]

Here are some "work in progress" poser pics.
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/3285/seattle082907168or5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/4669/seattle082907169hk0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/7384/seattle082907167ie2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

I hope you enjoy the work in progress pictures.

[Ryan Lane]

Looking good. I have only made a little progress. I have the upper carbon fiber links cut and installed. I have started on my body mounting system, but without the body I can't go any further. I had to shift to my 1/8th scale for a little while as I have a project to do with it, more on that latter. I will be back on the crawler in a week or two. I did take it out for a test drive. It was a lot of fun. I can't wait to get the body on. I think even with a 19 tooth pinion I am geared to high for rock crawling, but it is fast enough to be fun playing in the grass and on a big hill behind the house. Can't wait to see some action shots of yours Pede.

[Flamnpede]

I still need to mount the body too. I couldn't find the electric version so I ended up with a nitro version. Well the rear mounts should go right where they pretrimmed it for the engine and fuel tank.:roll2: SO far I have wrapped the wheels in lead,put t-maxx shocks on it,locked all diffs,narrowed some traxxas wheels, then I fabricated the battery mount and electronic mount.I hope by mounting everything on the links instead of up high in the chassis it will lower the CG.I think I might need to upgrade the steering servo too because the wheels weigh a ton.:rolleyes:

[Ryan Lane]

I picked up some duratrax 4" body mounts and turned them out to the sides. I will trim them to the width of the body and then use velcro on a lexan strip. This will give a sturdy mount that can still give in a roll over. It will help with a scale look as there will be no body post showing. I am waiting on the rpm pre narrowed wheels to come out then I will move up from the stock TLT's. I have my electronics on the chassis plates, but the battery is on the front axle. I have not added any weight to the wheels. It is a mediocre climber at best right now.

[Flamnpede]

I haven't had a chance to drive mine since I added weight to the wheels and moved the electronics lower.It did pretty well before I started moving everything around. I hope to get more done this weekend.