Tamiya Twin Detonator [Archive] - Page 2

mitch001

04-21-2005, 08:19 PM

Bearings are an absolute must, even with stock motors. They'll help speed and acceleration, but most importantly they reduce wear in the drivetrain considerably. They should be your first upgrade...they are a kind of "fit and forget" type upgrade.

For 540-size motors (and some 550's, like Kyosho Magnetic Mayhems), especially modified motors, most people use 6-cell packs...that's what the motors are designed for. However, with any motor down to around 14T, it's safe to run a 7 cell pack. The downside is that you will need to maintain the motor (replace the brushes and get the comm cut) more often. Generally speaking, the lower the no. of turns a motor has, the faster/more powerful it is, but the less torque it has and the more often you need to maintain it. You can fit a 7-cell stick pack in the TD, it just needs some slight modification to the battery holder to make it wider (basically, just use longer screws).

The 550-sized Titan motors, however, are designed for 12 cells and can be run on 14. You can't maintain these motors becuase they have sealed endbells, but they are cheap to replace (and you don't have to replace them often at all). They provide great power and massive torque in the Dagger at this voltage...but on 6 cells, they are slow.

Hope that helps mate!

Hi thanks that helps a lot. Im thinking of changing to the duratrax evader st pro as it is going to be cheaper in the long run with it coming stock with a 14 turn modified motor, oil filled shocks and a futaba 2pl computer radio system. It also has an esc that can handle a 12t motor. All those hop ups on my td are going to cost me the price i paid for it and for a not much more i can get a fully hopped up evader with radio gear and everything (at the moment im using the radio gear from my gas car) It'll be sad to see the td go but the evader seems to be the way to go and i have been told that it is twice as fast as the td in stock form.
The TD does look twice as mean as the evader but id rather go for performance and affordability over looks. Being used to my gas car which i race i need a very fast electric car to satisfy my need for speed and so far the TD doesnt seem to do it for me. Im going to enjoy my TD over the school holidays at the moment and do a bit of bashing :D and then look at changing over to the evader.

kurrz

04-21-2005, 09:17 PM

Unless you are going to race i'd stay away from the evader. I have one just to bash and it's never been bashed half as bad as my TD and something always breaks. I'd stay away from DTX altogether just my honest opinion. Guver said he's had good luck with his evader.

guver

04-21-2005, 09:19 PM

I bash both the evst and TD equally. I'm good at busting them both.

mitch001

04-21-2005, 09:56 PM

I bash both the evst and TD equally. I'm good at busting them both.
Assuming both were kept in stock form not taking price into account what one would you recommend? thanks

mitch001

04-21-2005, 09:57 PM

Dagger Thrasher

04-22-2005, 11:33 AM

kurrz

04-22-2005, 04:54 PM

guver

04-22-2005, 06:17 PM

Assuming both were kept in stock form not taking price into account what one would you recommend? thanks

In stock form I would take the evst over the TD because it is so slow.

mitch001

04-22-2005, 07:26 PM

Honestly I have bashed the evader about 1/4 as much as my TD and not as hard and I have busted the evader twice within the first 2 minutes. The TD on the other hand hours of bashing nothing broken and it is also almost as fast. Let me know if you want to go the evader route maybe we could work a trade?

Well im gonna give my TD a good bashing today and see what i think if its not me i'll just go and buy the evader st pro from my local hobby store (i live in New Zealand) thanks for the offer anyway.

mitch001

04-22-2005, 07:29 PM

Put simply, the Twin Det is the truck you want if you want raw torque and extreme offroad ability. It's ideal to bash, but take s a fair few mods to make it a racer...tho it can be awesome. For the most part tho, it's the sort of truck you drive when you want to conquer a 60 degree wet mud hill or treacherous forest land, time and time again.

The Evader, on the other hand, is a small racing ST. It's won't tackle any serious terrain, becuase it;s not designed to. It would probably be zippy around a track and run circles around the TD on a smooth surface. But it would be pathetic at any kind of substantial offroad (so it's not really my kind of truck).

Mitch, the graphite parts would make the truck more rigid, and handle slightly better, but they'd also be more fragile, I'm afraid. :(

Thanks mate good advice, im gonna give my TD a decent go today and see from there as im mainly going to be using it on a bmx track i reckon i mite just hop up my TD because of how strong it is, then again the evader pro is cheaper because it comes fully hopped up with esc and 14turn team orion motor, oil filled shocks, graphite racing parts, proline tires and all the goodies.

mitch001

04-23-2005, 12:42 AM

Just took my TD for its first proper run and i must say i was very impressed. It has a ton of torque and it can jump really nicely, no need to worry about the nimble looking parts on the evader im just gonna hop up the TD heaps, do any of you guys run two battery packs? i am interested in knowing how you do it as the run time isnt that great.

Very impressive truck and handled everything i dished out to it

Grumpy134

04-23-2005, 01:12 AM

mitch001

04-23-2005, 01:57 AM

If its any help, I run a pair of 17T double motors. I use Power Maxx 2400 mAh 6 cell. I get roughly 15 minutes or so of "bashing" time per battery.
I dont know if this is the "norm"...but its ok with me. Seeing as though I have 2 batteries......By the time I run out the first battery.....My second is ready to go.

**sidenote**
A good quick charger is a must!!!!

Cheers, what time did you get when the car was stock and when it was stock what battery did u use? i just got took it for a run and got a pathetic 5mins and i wasnt even going that hard

kurrz

04-23-2005, 07:02 AM

Sounds like a bad pack I run 15x2 and get that amount of run time with a 1500 nicad. Glad to hear your keeping your TD wait until you start to hop it up it really brings out the trucks potential.

mitch001

04-24-2005, 05:59 AM

i sat down and worked it out and the evader is way better value for money than the TD once you've go the radio gear and servos but sitting there looking at it sitting on my shelf theres no way I can sell it. The monster trucks look so much meaner than the stadium trucks.

kurrz

04-24-2005, 08:21 AM

Very true!

Grumpy134

04-24-2005, 08:36 PM

Cheers, what time did you get when the car was stock and when it was stock what battery did u use? i just got took it for a run and got a pathetic 5mins and i wasnt even going that hard

I never used the stock 540's. I may have, just to set up my accelerator/steering trim. But I sold them on Ebay and bought Trinity Moster Horsepower motors. (BAD CHOICE to say the least)
At that time I was using Venom 1800 NiCaD. The times were pathetic. Maybe 5- 6 minutes before I noticed a drop in speed and all out power.

mitch001

04-25-2005, 04:03 AM

I never used the stock 540's. I may have, just to set up my accelerator/steering trim. But I sold them on Ebay and bought Trinity Moster Horsepower motors. (BAD CHOICE to say the least)
At that time I was using Venom 1800 NiCaD. The times were pathetic. Maybe 5- 6 minutes before I noticed a drop in speed and all out power.

Does an esc make any noticeable difference to speed or more importantly run times? i don't really know much about esc's and was wondering what the advantages are of having one.

And is it true that lower turn your engines are the shorter run time you will get?
Thanks for your help

Grumpy134

04-25-2005, 04:33 PM

All I know about ESC's is that it lets you use more of your motors potential. Take a stock tamiya speed control...You only have 3 speeds. Where as an ESC lets you run from a slow crawl... to top speed.... With everything in-between. Im sure Dagger or someone else can elaborate on this for you. This is just my "simple" explanation of it.

As for the lower turn....I think not. I say this from experience. The Trinity Monster Horsepower motors I was using were 27T single. Where as with my Trinity Speed Gems-PRO, which are 17T double. I get much longer times with the Gems. I also went to a "bigger" battery. I used Venom 1800mAh...now I use Power Maxx 2400mAh. Both were NiCaD 6 cells

The lower turn..means more speed. High turns decrease your speed, but gives you plenty more torque.

mitch001

04-25-2005, 08:31 PM

Grumpy134

04-25-2005, 08:40 PM

mitch001

04-25-2005, 10:07 PM

I would have tried those...but I bought a quick charger when I bought the 1800's. My Pirahna charger will only do NiCaD's. So I bought the biggest NiCaD's that my charger would handle. I didnt want to spend more money......just yet. :D . Got better things Id rather buy for the TD.

yeah i just check my charger and its the same as well. I found some really cheap team orion havok motors. They are 17turn double wound engines so should give my truck a bit of power. I don't wont to go toomuch lower than 17t as you start to sacrifice torque for speed and the whole point of a monster truck that they have an endless supply of torque :)

Im going out now to do some bashing with my TD :D

mitch001

04-26-2005, 12:52 AM

Hi, just done some bashing, great fun :D apart from when I flipped my car and it went into a brick wall :o

I noticed a loss in power, my car had no get up and go at all, but the still sounded like the engines were working hard (a bit like when your car is rolling along and you put it in neutral and give it a rev).
I inspected evrything to find that the rims had been spinning inside the tyres therefore the car had no go. Partly due to the tyre blackener i just sprayed my tyres out with, this caused them to slip.

I was just wondering if you guys have glued your tyres to the rims, as I feel that will totally eliminate any slipping at all therefore you are getting the best out of your truck at all times.

kurrz

04-26-2005, 06:03 PM

Yes glue the tires it makes a big difference.

Grumpy134

04-26-2005, 06:22 PM

Im glad you commented first Kurrz.....I was worried about getting laughed at for doing that same thing. I used a rubber type epoxy.
DAMN....It does do wonders when you lock-up your rear diff too!!!
A nice 2' rooster tail while in gravel.

kurrz

04-26-2005, 07:45 PM

Yeah i'm going to get around to locking my diff. soon I used CA glue on my tires.

mitch001

04-26-2005, 08:22 PM

I don't have any tire glue and i lost my model cement so im gonna try the good old PVA. I'm hoping it will hold out but if it doesnt i'll just get some model cement shipped down in my next lot of hop up parts

mitch001

04-28-2005, 06:29 PM

Hi,

Do any of you guys use a novak elektra esc? because one has just come up cheap on a local auction website. Is it very difficult to install the esc because of the twin motors? or is it just as straight forward as having 1? thanks

Grumpy134

05-01-2005, 11:38 AM

Make sure that esc can handle the type of motors you use. (ie: the amount of TURNS)
I havent bought 1 yet. But, the Novak Super Rooster would be my first chioce. As far as installing it..Shouldn't be that hard. Im sure it would give you some sort of instructions on how to hook it up.

kurrz

05-01-2005, 06:19 PM

If you wire in series then double the turns ex: a 8T+ 8T= 16T if you wire in parallel it halves 2 16T= 8T P.S. get a super rooster great esc. ALSO KEEP IN MIND if you wire in series it halves the voltage.

kurrz

05-01-2005, 06:20 PM

And yes the SR tells you how to hook it up.

frederik

05-02-2005, 02:05 PM

Just wondering.....my TD is standard exept for bearings, i am thinking of getting other motors soon, is there any considiration that i will have to take with regards to the gearboxes

Grumpy134

05-02-2005, 05:16 PM

Just wondering.....my TD is standard exept for bearings, i am thinking of getting other motors soon, is there any considiration that i will have to take with regards to the gearboxes

Negetive
But the type of motors you may want.....WILL need some consideration.
The more TURNS.....the less speed and more torque
Lesser the TURNS....More speed and less torque.
Also..Look for motors that you can "Time" or adjust. Since the front motor works in reverse to keep the truck going striaght forward.
You will want to "time" your motors.
I know it may be alot of reading, but in this thread, we pretty much covered this issue. :D

guver

05-02-2005, 06:42 PM

There are only 2 gearing chioces too, something else to consider when picking voltage and turns.

Grumpy134

05-02-2005, 07:12 PM

Your talking about the pinion gear...right?
I never really looked into changing mine. I know there are a couple of chioces to choose from. But Im happy with my 18.

guver

05-02-2005, 08:17 PM

Yes there's 18 and 20 that's it. If voltage is determined by the chassis or available battery or esc then the gearing is (for the most part ) non-adjustable and the motor turns will determine the speed. I don't like that. Oh well.

frederik

05-03-2005, 02:08 AM

Has anyone tried the Maga X 500 motors....it seems to be one of my only choices at my local store

frederik

05-03-2005, 02:11 AM

I see you guys tal about locking the reare diff, what does this do? :confused:

nascar3

05-03-2005, 07:36 AM

Negetive
But the type of motors you may want.....WILL need some consideration.
The more TURNS.....the less speed and more torque
Lesser the TURNS....More speed and less torque.
Also..Look for motors that you can "Time" or adjust. Since the front motor works in reverse to keep the truck going striaght forward.
You will want to "time" your motors.
I know it may be alot of reading, but in this thread, we pretty much covered this issue. :D

Motor set up is exactly like the Clod. Front motor is standard rotation(behind the axle) rear motor is reverse ( in front of the axle) If the front was reverse it would look like the Kyosho USA 1 with the motor in front of the axle.

frederik

05-03-2005, 12:25 PM

Me again...has anyone vere tried the following Tamiya motor: RS540

guver

05-03-2005, 12:40 PM

Those are in the TD stock no? they are a 27 turn motor.

Here's another tip: lots of 550's have tabs for running 0 timing or reversed timing.

guver

05-03-2005, 12:43 PM

Here's something I have observed it is that the uotside motor bushing keeps chattering for lack of lube. Sometimes it only last 1 run. Is there a fix other than a bearing?

I don't notice this in any other vehicle of mine, in the TD the bushing hangs way out there in the water/mud/dirt spray.... I did measure lots of 550's for bearings, but the only one I found upgradable was the magmayhem. all the others are odd sized bushings.

kurrz

05-03-2005, 04:29 PM

If you lock the rear diff. it acts like a posi trac. Meaning both tires on the rear will spin at the same speed.

guver

05-04-2005, 01:23 AM

I said I would try these heavy dogbones , well they work great stock diameter is .120
these are .150 and ofna part no. 17145 evo rtr rear dogbone pair.

They are ever slight longer, and so I just removed the o-rings from the drives.

guver

05-04-2005, 01:24 AM

Now a new update is I busted my chassis,... so I have engineered out a new one that is u-jiont equipped and 3/4 longer wheelbase and 1.5 inch wider on the rear. Shocks and towers are still up for grabs.

mitch001

05-07-2005, 03:55 AM

Hi guys, today i went to mates house to do a whole days worth of truck bashing :D
He has the tamiya mad bull and i have the detonator. His car was carving me up over jumps down straights and around corners until we got onto the rough stuff. We had a bark hill to go over as part of out track and my TD went up without hesitation while his 2WD car just dug itself into the ground.
I was running my car out on the bench after the racing and the front engine became unhooked and this made the rear wheels go real quick. So out of interest have any of you guys tried unhooking the engines to make the car go twice as fast? and does it do any damage to the engine or any damage at all? hopefully next time i can run my car 2WD over the main course then hook the 2nd engine back up to get my mate back for the ass whipping he gave me today.
Cheers

kurrz

05-07-2005, 07:52 AM

Guver what do you mean by "shocks and towers are up for grabs"? Are you selling them if so PM me please. Mitch I've heard it is ok to unhook the front motor but, have never tried maybe i'll try it?

guver

05-07-2005, 01:14 PM

I was meaning that I had the arms, shafts and hubs figured out, but hadn't gotten to the shocks and mounts yet. That's the easy part. I would like maybe to go to longer shocks.

mitch001

05-07-2005, 05:59 PM

Guver what do you mean by "shocks and towers are up for grabs"? Are you selling them if so PM me please. Mitch I've heard it is ok to unhook the front motor but, have never tried maybe i'll try it?

Yeah im hoping its ok because my mates mad bull runs the same tamiya 540 27t engine and his car was easily twice as fast as my car if not more.
Is a 17t engine good if you want good speed but still have the torque?

guver

05-08-2005, 03:09 AM

I will definetly sell the 4 shocks, they are brand new. the towers I have not decided yet. I have to find a price somewhere or you can make an offer.

kurrz

05-08-2005, 06:28 AM

OK Guver can you refresh my memory? Exactly which shocks are they? And how much shipped? Thanks

guver

05-09-2005, 12:18 AM

they are the stock shocks. I can't seem to find a price yet.

guver

05-09-2005, 02:02 AM

I can't find a price or part numbers, they are c-parts. c-1,c-2,c-3,ma3 screwa.rubbergrommets,ma12 springs and c-8.

guver

05-21-2005, 11:57 PM

Hi, td fans. After running my td on 6 cells and 14 turn motr lately I have just put a ten cell together. It weighs 6 pounds all ready w/ batts and body (2800 gramms)

The rear shafts (ofna evo ) are holding up great.

microrcdude

05-22-2005, 04:41 PM

10 cells? what are they, 2400's, 3000's?

guver

05-22-2005, 05:08 PM

I use cheap 3000's

Has anyone else noticed that when using bushing type motor they chatter a lot and are hard to keep cleaned and lubed?

I am using 14 turn motors now with bearings and hope it will not wear the bearings out.

guver

05-24-2005, 04:25 PM

It is about an inch wider and uses rear arms and adjustable turnbuckles and longer dogbones.

guver

05-24-2005, 04:27 PM

another pic

guver

05-24-2005, 06:10 PM

Here's the boring pic of the heavy duty ofna evo bone that is a nice , larger direct replacement for the stock (bendable) dogbone.

kurrz

05-25-2005, 07:02 PM

Thanks for the tip about the dogbones.

mitch001

05-29-2005, 12:18 AM

Hi guys,
Ive been in this forum for the past 9 or so pages and am sorry to say I have just sold my TD. As some of you are aware I was thinking of getting an evader and I was offered a great deal so I took it.
I got a duratrax evader that had only been used 10times 100percent complete with two 3000mah batterys and a digital charger for less than I paid for my TD without radio gear etc.

Thanks for the advice you guys have offered me, cheers

guver

05-29-2005, 04:04 AM

I have had evaders for a couple of years and like them, good luck I'm sure you have fun...

Phead128

06-01-2005, 11:33 PM

guver:

What is that silver steel dogbone that you had in the first picture?

(|)------[====]------(|)

Is that stock length? ( like same length as Evo dogbone) If so, can you direct me to the link or shop you got that silver steel dogbone from?

guver

06-02-2005, 12:01 AM

It is these ones and will work if you use rear arms in the front for a wider front end.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000211454&I=DTXC9601&P=K

Phead128

06-04-2005, 12:08 AM

i do not understand, those silver dogbones can't work in normal wild dagger setup? you have to use a extended arm for those silver bones to fit? I though the wild dagger's front arms and rear arms were the same lengths?

So you have a 79.4mm Evo dogbone in the back, and a 85.5mm Silver dogbone in the front? Are those stock arms you are using?

guver

06-04-2005, 03:12 AM

The rear arms are wider. so you have to use rear arms in the front w/ the longer bones.

Aluma

07-06-2005, 12:16 PM

any of you guys have an old set of 4 wheels(just wheels) you'd like to get rid of for cheap? I'm looking for wheels for my DF02 that would let me use proline 1/10 truck bowties...I think the detonators wheels are 2.2in with 12mm hex drives and offset to the inside edge of the wheel...I'm hoping they'd be the right wheel I'm looking for.

Dagger Thrasher

07-06-2005, 01:10 PM

Yup that's exactly right, I don't have any going but they'd do the job just fine.:D

Aluma

07-06-2005, 10:48 PM

are the front and rear the same wheel? anyone have pics of the inside of them?

Dagger Thrasher

07-08-2005, 07:26 AM

The front and rear wheels are identical. I don't have a pic, but they are pretty much maximum possible offset...they will fit your DF02 without a problem. Also, Wild Dagger, Mighty Bull and Blackfoot Xtreme wheels will fit...they are identical wheels, just in different colours.:D

guver

07-25-2005, 08:25 PM

I just learned the hard way,the pinions are metric 48 pitch. I had some 20 tooth and they are very noisy cuz they are the wrong ones.

Is there a good place to get 18 and 20 tooth pinions for this truck?

Update anyways I dropped down to 8 cells and am using 20 turn motors now w/ a streak esc. It seemed so slow, hopefully it was cuz of the pinions.

szan

07-29-2005, 06:22 AM

hi guyer

20t pinions can be found on ebay :
http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-RC-Car-Parts-FF02-20T-21T-AV-Pinion-Gear-50356_W0QQitemZ5986232274QQcategoryZ34063QQssPageN ameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
you need two items, just sell back the 21T.

18T ones too :
http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-18T-19T-AV-Pinion-Gear-Set-50355_W0QQitemZ5989992395QQcategoryZ34063QQssPageN ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

bye

I just learned the hard way,the pinions are metric 48 pitch. I had some 20 tooth and they are very noisy cuz they are the wrong ones.

Is there a good place to get 18 and 20 tooth pinions for this truck?

Update anyways I dropped down to 8 cells and am using 20 turn motors now w/ a streak esc. It seemed so slow, hopefully it was cuz of the pinions.

guver

07-29-2005, 12:00 PM

Thanks, I am going to get 20 tooth. My stock ones are pretty worn anyways.

kurrz

07-29-2005, 07:18 PM

What size are the stock pinions?

guver

07-30-2005, 03:41 AM

18 tooth, they are aluminum and mine teeth are almost gone.

kurrz

07-30-2005, 02:49 PM

Need a little soldering help I cant get my motor wires to solder to the motor I only have a 40 watt iron is this my problem? My iron works fine for putting on battery ends?

kurrz

09-19-2005, 05:10 PM

Hey guys just got my detonator out last night and as soon as I started to run it I noticed it acted funny. Upon further inspection I realized the front motor was not working. This is first time Ive had it out in while, is there any reason a motor will just quit? Also I know it was getting power because the other motor is run from it's tabs. Thanks

guver

09-19-2005, 05:31 PM

Hmm, maybe a brush that is hung uop on the brush hood or other broken brush problem. If you can poke around slightly with the throttle trim set up to run the back motor you may be able to poke around carefully and find the bad connection.

Dagger Thrasher

09-19-2005, 05:58 PM

Yeah, more than likely it's a brush problem or a bad connection somewhere. Check your wiring, also just make sure your front pinion hasn't worked loose. As for soldering your motors, you might need to sand down the motor tabs a bit to get the solder to adhere properly, and you'll need good quality wire. 40W is plenty powerful enough for the job. ;)

kurrz

09-19-2005, 09:14 PM

Actually I pulled the front motor and ran it rwd its kinda cool but does'nt handle well. I had the wires to the front motor and them back to the rear and the rear was getting power. Probably a brush problem, thanks for the tips guys.

guver

10-27-2005, 06:45 PM

My detonator has been running all season long with this set-up (after breaking too often with 10-11 cells)

8 cells and 2 20 turn motors , streak esc, and stampede tires unglued. seems to be a nice happy medium for bashing. I think this thing could actually race with a little work,,,

elbrent

11-24-2005, 11:22 AM

I have a new twin detonator, stock excepting a set of ball bearings. I want to get a bit more speed, was looking into a couple 15t or 14t motors, but I was concerned about the stock speed control. Looks like the only ESC I can find that can handle two 15t motors is the Novak Super Duty XR High Voltage ESC which is $140 - seems a bit steep to install a couple $30 motors. So my question is multi-faceted: Will the motors work well with the stock speed control; again my main concern for this setup is speed? Is there a cheaper ESC that will handle this setup? Any reccomendations on reasonably priced speed motors that are available now - I'm having trouble finding a lot of the motors reccomended in earlier posts.

szan

11-25-2005, 04:01 AM

Hi elbrent,

You can't use motor less than 23T with mecal stock speed controler, the soldering may melt.
I recommend to upgrade with a Novak EVX with Titan 550 motors (14V)
and a chassis with 2 slots for batteries (find carbon one on ebay). I did this
upgrade, and it's really fast, more than 40km/h, you don't recognize your
twin, it's frightening :)

have fun

I have a new twin detonator, stock excepting a set of ball bearings. I want to get a bit more speed, was looking into a couple 15t or 14t motors, but I was concerned about the stock speed control. Looks like the only ESC I can find that can handle two 15t motors is the Novak Super Duty XR High Voltage ESC which is $140 - seems a bit steep to install a couple $30 motors. So my question is multi-faceted: Will the motors work well with the stock speed control; again my main concern for this setup is speed? Is there a cheaper ESC that will handle this setup? Any reccomendations on reasonably priced speed motors that are available now - I'm having trouble finding a lot of the motors reccomended in earlier posts.

joostin421

12-01-2005, 12:18 PM

well, my dagger/detonator still is not finished because i have had no time. all aluminum and carbon fiber. i was planning on using my 2x lehner 4200's each on 7cells in it, but i may have other plans for the motors.

i have an mtroniks super e truck 14.4v ESC, and some Multiplex Permax 600 7.2V Motors i might use instead.

http://home.comcast.net/~joostin420/wsb/media/355614/site1337.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~joostin420/wsb/media/355614/site1338.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~joostin420/wsb/media/355614/site1340.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~joostin420/wsb/media/355614/site1342.JPG

justin

Jeckler

12-01-2005, 04:17 PM

Hey guys, I'm thinking of getting rid of my Emaxx, and getting a TD instead. I have a couple questions.
The main reason I want to get rid of the E is that it is SO hard on batteries. I'm going to assume for the moment that the TD is significantly lighter than the E. Confirm?
If I were to swap the E's motors and EVX over to a TD, would it still be so hard on batteries, in regards to the amount of heat they produce and the runtime?
Secondly, if I were to do the above, is it possible to modify the stock TD chassis to accept 2 packs or do I need to build/buy a new one?
Or, should I pick up a SR or new XR Superduty and run 14-16t modifieds on 6-7 cells?

guver

12-01-2005, 08:37 PM

Yep, it is absolutely lighter and therefore w/ the same power set-up is much faster.
It will be much easier on the batts and the runtime should be longer.

On the chassis: the stock one can fit 2 packs if it is cut out a bit. I had used 3-4 cells between the plates along with a 6-8 cell pack in the stock location, but find that it was just too heavy.

I think you have the right idea, the TD is quite slow when new, but with mods like you are planning it will be easy to double the speed.

14 t and 7 cells was pretty fast too. My current set-up is 20 t and 8 cells.

DemonicDesigns

12-02-2005, 01:35 PM

if you want some more pics of a moded dagger/detonator, here is a link to my dagger.

http://rcdaggerweb.com/clyde/fisheye/view.php?gallery_id=14

it runs on dual Titans, a Super Duty XR, 20 tooth pinnions, maximum MT suspension, and wheels/ tires, oh and 16.8 volts (thats 14 cells), not to mention a custom chassis, among other things....

Fore more more pics/info on Wild Dagger/twin detonators, check out www.rcdaggerweb.com 's forums and gallery. There is lots of knowhow and expierience over there...

Demon

joostin421

12-07-2005, 02:47 PM

update to the project, i fabricated some new shock towers that changed the suspension setup - works wonderfull :)

http://home.comcast.net/~joostin420/wsb/media/355614/site1381.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~joostin420/wsb/media/355614/site1382.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~joostin420/wsb/media/355614/site1383.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~joostin420/wsb/media/355614/site1384.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~joostin420/wsb/media/355614/site1385.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~joostin420/wsb/media/355614/site1386.JPG

justin

ortovosh

12-20-2005, 04:34 AM

I am new to this forum, so I apologize if this has been answered elsewhere...

I have a TD....no customisation....just stock....

I have been through about 4 servos for the front steering...it keeps breaking....

Is there some mod I can do to make this stronger ???

Thanks

guver

12-20-2005, 12:48 PM

Hmm, very interesting & welcome to the forum..,,

I use a cheap standard servo and only problem I have is the mounts come loose once in a while. I have many many runs on mine, in fact I have completely trash 1 whole truck. I am on my second one.

I am curious what is it that breaks? the gears? I think there's a servo saver on the servo horn also. which is suposed to protect it.

bbowles

12-20-2005, 10:14 PM

Hello. I am new to the forum also. I put the finishing touches on my new TD last Sunday. I ordered a cheap hi torque servo made by hobbico when I ordered the truck kit. I only have a few of runs on it but we'll see how it holds up. I only paid 22 bucks for it so I guess you get what you pay for. It can't be any worse than a cheap standard servo. I saw on another forum or another post somewhere where they used both #4 "C" spare parts left over in the kit and put them between the frame and the servo on both sides. I tried this and it virtually eliminates servo mount movement. The steering is a lot more precise now and this is a free fix. I am really surprised that the mount is so flimsy for such a large truck. I believe this extra play in the servo mounts work the screws loose..

Hmm, very interesting & welcome to the forum..,,

I use a cheap standard servo and only problem I have is the mounts come loose once in a while. I have many many runs on mine, in fact I have completely trash 1 whole truck. I am on my second one.

I am curious what is it that breaks? the gears? I think there's a servo saver on the servo horn also. which is suposed to protect it.

guver

12-20-2005, 10:18 PM

That's a great idea, it would really stiffen things up as the mounts do move a lot. Haven't been able to run for a while as the snow has been constant.

bbowles

12-20-2005, 10:26 PM

I have been getting 12 minute run times on my stock TD with an MSC on relatively flat ground with a 1500 NiCD on a timed charger. I was only expecting 5 to 6 minutes. Is this about right? I can't imagine how long I could run on a 3600 NiMh with a peak charger running an ESC.

joostin421

12-22-2005, 08:19 PM

will be running 7cells to each motor; what should i gear the lehner 4200's at; 18tooth or 20tooth pinions?

justin

guver

04-10-2006, 12:57 AM

I'm geting stuff ready to build a 4S li-po TD

I'll be using a streak esc and start out with integy lathe motors, but will go to stock motors if the integys aren't enough rpm.

My td is still one of my favs. How are the rest on yours doing?

guver

04-12-2006, 08:47 PM

Well, I got stuff mounted and charged up with the 2 55t motors, 16 volts and 21 tooth pinions. It all works nice, but is just too slow. I may drop down to 27 turn stock motors or use 20 turn motors and 12 volts.

guver

04-12-2006, 08:48 PM

Would anyone happen to know what the max current of the stock motors is? at any specified voltage? I want to make sure my li-po do not get taxes too much.

pagedm

04-14-2006, 09:27 AM

Hi Joostin, Where did you get the alloy lower control arms? I have been looking for some but haven't been able to find any.

szan

04-14-2006, 10:31 AM

rcmart.com have some alloy arms !

guver

05-04-2006, 08:48 PM

Well, I've ben playing with lipos and motors and here's the setups that work good

streak esc and 4S lipo with stock motors just flies, it's about twice the speed as a stocker.

5S lipo currently along with 55t motors and 21 tooth gears is about the same speed, works pretty nice.

guver

06-05-2006, 10:57 PM

Hi, does anyone have experience with running a bit smaller diameter tires on the TD?

Kinda like stadium truck tires? I was wondering how the dirt hawgs or dirt works would be?

I have stampede tires on mine and they are heavy and the rear is quite squirrly. I want to get rid of thje squirrely on the back, but want the same meats on all fours.

guver

06-05-2006, 11:00 PM

where they used both #4 "C" spare parts left over in the kit and put them between the frame and the servo on both sides. I tried this and it virtually eliminates servo mount movement. The steering is a lot more precise now and this is a free fix. I am really surprised that the mount is so flimsy for such a large truck. I believe this extra play in the servo mounts work the screws loose..

I'm putting together a new truck, does anyone have some more details on how to stiffen the servo mount up. I just can't seem to make out what and where to mount stuf other than the stock mounts. Thanks a bunch.

HARDLYWORKIN

06-08-2006, 09:21 PM

Just bought a twin detonator two weeks ago, ran abou five batteries through it and the rear differential slips considerable. It would easily pull the front wheels off the ground before now the front spins and the rear slips as it slowly takes off... anyone know how to tighten the differential?

Thanks!

guver

06-09-2006, 03:04 AM

It is a gear diff and the tires may be slipping? congrats on purchase and welcome to forum.

szan

09-02-2006, 02:30 AM

Hi,

You must glue the tires on your twin, you 'll see a big difference. I don't think your diff is in cause.

Bye

brixter11

09-09-2006, 04:30 PM

will all standard 2.2 tires fit on the stock td wheel rims for example imex truck pulls

guver

09-09-2006, 05:17 PM

Yes, 2.2 tires fit good

Carps

11-25-2006, 10:36 AM

Has anyone had any problems with the steering system on these? It seems like every time my son hits a large bump, the alignment goes haywire, like the spline on the servo is stripped. Any suggestions for a more robust steering system?

guver

11-25-2006, 05:59 PM

Yes, all three of mine.

There's an ofna servo saver that I got and is going into my next one.
Loctite screws seems to help the most as the screw comes loose mostly.

That and the dogbones are the two weak links.

roCKet_1

01-09-2007, 09:09 AM

Hey Tree, I have just bought a new Tmiya Twin Detonator,GS racing Nitro Shadow ST1 Stadium Truck...Would be cool to get together for bashing sessions. We going to play in Durbanville this weekend, just two of us in our group so far. Contact me on MSN clinton.lottering@bcx.co.za, mail at clinton.lottering@debeersgroup.com

Cheers
Clinton

tim126

01-29-2007, 06:38 PM

Hi guys. I need some help. I just got a TD and built it with full bearings. My prior experience has been with the Frog and Blackfoot, both of which I had as a kid, and recently built new (frog) and rebuilt a used one (blackfoot). The TD is my first "modern" kit.

First impression is that Tamiya has come a LONG way. Very good build quality. But my Blackfoot (stock with bearings, 8.4v and Tamiya sport tuned motor) would smoke it in a straight line.

So here are my questions. The mechanical speed controller SUCKS. This is the first thing I need to fix, and NOW. I have Tamiya ESCs on both my Frog and Blackfoot and they are much better, but I'll never buy another one because even a hint of moisture on them and they wont work for at least 24 hours.

So what would be a good "beginners" upgrade for this car? I'd like to put a waterproof, or at least water resistant ESC in it, and an upgrade to the stock motors. Nothing that needs constant maintenance, or needs timing adjustments, etc.

The truck is to be used for backyard thrashing, with a mud, water snow being around.

Any suggestions?

roCKet_1

01-30-2007, 01:17 AM

Hi, wet weather is not recommended for RC cars, least of all electric ones, I'm afraid...My advices is keep it in the dry!

ralph_da_legend

03-10-2007, 05:06 PM

hi,

well I've just had to buy a new chassis and gear box casing for my Twin Detonator which I bought in October.

I was doing a jump that I had made (out of a sun lounger :o) and something went rong... I ended up with the whole front gearbox and wheels hanging onto the chassis by the steering rods!

However, when looking into buying new parts I decided to make a few adjustments to my model... Firstly how big a battery can the motor cope with?? and does it fit in the battery holder?
Im also looking to get some bigger dampers (hoping to raise the overall height of the car) but do not know were to look. Any help/recommendations?
Also, any tips on installing headlights?

guver

03-11-2007, 11:12 AM

The stock motors can have an 8 celll battery easy enough, it will fit in the holder, but needs to be rubberbanded or fastened in somehow. It will make the truck heavier , so lipos may be a better choice. It's easy to get the voltage higher with lipos.

sorry no help on lights and ride height.

ralph_da_legend

03-12-2007, 02:29 PM

Thanks for you help on batterys.

Not meaning to sound stupid intentionaly... but im reasonably new to everything RC. Whats a lipo?

pauster

03-12-2007, 02:58 PM

LiPo is short for Lithium-polymer - pretty much the gold
standard for batteries in RCs these days. Same stuff
they use in most laptop batteries.

They are light, compact, have a high capcacity and can
deliver high amps. They do require special chargers, and
you have to heed the saftey precautions (they can
explode/catch fire ...)

ralph_da_legend

03-12-2007, 04:03 PM

alrite. thanks.

so what sort of size lipo am i looking at?? I really want as good as it gets...

guver

03-13-2007, 03:59 AM

I fit mini lipos in the battery position (s) with foam around them. The ones that fit the mini quakes,vendettas,mini-t,and maybe the rc18's will fit. Mine are 34mmx85mm

ralph_da_legend

03-13-2007, 02:30 PM

thanks again. how powerful a battery can the twin detonator take?

guver

03-13-2007, 02:41 PM

The question doesn't make any sense to me. It's like asking how powerful a "gas tank" can a given car take?

The battery (or tank) must be a minimum requirements in size and current capability to supply the motor. The motor along with voltage will determine the power of vehicle.

Another way to say it is to say that a battery will only deliver UP TO the amount of power that the motor is pulling, but it has to be sized so that it is at least "powerful" enough to supply the given current to any given motor.

smaz92

06-07-2007, 12:01 PM

Hi i am new to this forum and have had a tw for a while now and have started to think about what hop ups are best can u give some advise on what action to take first as i dont really have a clue thanxs

guver

06-07-2007, 12:47 PM

If nothing has broken on you then oil filled shocks and perhaps adding a cell or two to the battery is a great hop up. Welcome to the forum.

smaz92

06-07-2007, 01:45 PM

thanxs thats helpfull and i would just like to say that my tw is really good and i havnt had any probs with it.

guver

06-07-2007, 01:51 PM

I sure like mine and have fun upping the speed on them. The popularity of this thread shows they don't seem to be real popular anymore, go figure. Maybe since the Dark impact came out it is more popular because it has a single motor.

horvath45

11-22-2007, 12:08 AM

A super rooster with 8-10 cells and some 15-17 turn motors is fun on the Dagger/Detonator and very quick.

I run my Super Rooster on my dagger with 550 titan sized motors on twin packs and it's pretty fast. :D

are ur titans 12t or 23t?..where did you get the pinions for them?how do u like the titan motors?are they reliable? i like your idea because those motors are around $20 and i cant afford tamiya TZ motors so the titans are loooking nice right now. and do you still have enough torque to offroad decently?

nottznutter

05-01-2009, 04:16 PM

hi there folks excuse me for asking this because im betting its been asked a thousand times before but basically i bought a tl-01 subaru impreza from ebay a couple of months ago and turned it into a drifter

http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt358/disturbed79/02032007652.jpg

well i bought a tt01 now and im gunna use that for drifting. well ive always wanted a rc truck and ive decided i want to build a monster truck out of the tl01 (i heard it was a good chassis for trucks) the thing is i dont know what parts to get to convert it

the tlo1 is already ball raced and speed tuned geared and its fitted with a hpi 27t motor and mtroniks viper eco27 esc and has oil filled adjustable shocks

basically i wanted to ask what will i need to upgrade ......

do i need the tl01 long arm kit or will the short one be ok and if i do will i need bigger dog bones and what dog bones from which model would you suggest ?

what monster truck wheels will fit on the standard tl01 hubs or do i need to change them and for which model hubs would be ok to use ?

would i need to change the shock tower or will the standard one be ok ?

(the shocks ive got on the tl01 at the mo give a lot of ground clearance for the chassis id say at least 10mm)

and finally do they make 190mm truck shells ?

im realy sorry about all the questions but i will be truely gratefull if anyone can shed some light on this subject for me. thanks in advance