Tamiya TA04S/SS/R/R-Tuned/TRF Forum V2.1

[TRI-TURBO]

Can I use the machined aluminum blue arches from the 414 in a TA04-TRF? Anyone have a part number for them? What other upgrades should I consider - I want to hop this car up to the extreme without changing the decks. Thanks for any input!


I am Pretty Shure that the 414 arches Do Not fit on the TA04

[TEM]

Use the light weight outdrives on both front and rear. You save about 13grams per set. However, if you run them in the front, it's a good idea to put in the longer universals(TRF DH, you know what the length in mm is for this?) which sit deeper into the outdrive and reduces chances of cracking them when you crash. These don't work with the front oneway though(1 side does, other side is too long), but you would still have your stock shorter universals anyways.

I have not yet found a need for the aluminium suspension blocks. I'll buy some when the plastic ones break.

[TheoDR]

Hi everyone!!! Haha, its been a long absence for me from the R/C hobby!! Anyway, here's my 04 with PVC tyres, wanted to get into drifting the other time. Hmm, the TA05 looks so very tempting...

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y182/TheoDR/TA04c.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y182/TheoDR/TA04b.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y182/TheoDR/TA04a.jpg

[minijosh]

Didn't Tamiya make some red blocks like they did for the tb evo 3 for the TA04? I swear they would fit.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Use the light weight outdrives on both front and rear. You save about 13grams per set. However, if you run them in the front, it's a good idea to put in the longer universals(TRF DH, you know what the length in mm is for this?) which sit deeper into the outdrive and reduces chances of cracking them when you crash. These don't work with the front oneway though(1 side does, other side is too long), but you would still have your stock shorter universals anyways.

I have not yet found a need for the aluminium suspension blocks. I'll buy some when the plastic ones break.

42mm ;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Didn't Tamiya make some red blocks like they did for the tb evo 3 for the TA04? I swear they would fit.


Um... No... ;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hi everbody!.
Its been a while since I last posted on this form (a year or two I think)

I just got back into racing my TA04R, and just recently bought the first few hop-ops my car has ever seen :)

So far I bought
Carbon Reinforced Front Uprights (old ones were striped),
Blue Aluminium Wheel Hubs (something i should have done along time ago)
Light weight rear swing shafts, and carbon fiber shock towers for the front...still wating for the rear towers to come in.

here are just a few pics for fun

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/edguna1/hopups.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/edguna1/CFtowers.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/edguna1/car2.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/edguna1/ta04.jpg

I still plan on getting a few more hop ups, but i have a few questions

does anybody know if you could use the light weight diff joints in the front and rear ball diffs? or should it only be used in the rear with the light weight drive shafts??

Also are the Aluminium Suspension Block Sets any good??


The LW outdrives are great... better than the stock heavy set... i dont know why you cant use them for the front... i sometimes use the LW shafts up front... i havent bent one at all... the suspension aluminum blocks are good in my opinion... they pivot on a ball rather just the shaft in the plastic...

[TRI-TURBO]

So I droped by my LHS after work today and ended up buying aluminum suspension bocks for the front and rear with a discount.

I talked to the owener about the light wieght cups. They are lighter so there is less rotating mass, but with the heavy stock ones there is more momentum when the car is already moving. so I think the stock ones arn't all that bad.

But in In any case, buying hop-ups for this car is too addictive even tho it probably won't make my car too fast, but atleast it looks Über cool :cool:
Call me crazy but Im most likely going to spend an overall total of $200cnd on hop-ups for this car

Here are somemore pics of the suspension blocks just for fun...

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/edguna1/ALsuspension.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/edguna1/rear.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/edguna1/front.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/edguna1/both2.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/edguna1/both.jpg


btw TheoDR nice 04.. I tried doing the PVC thing awhile back too....didn't really work for me tho..the car just spun in circiles haha

[TEM]

I've got more than 200CDN slapped on mine and I ain't even got the fancy aluminium blocks yet! Tamiya stuff is pricy...

[TheoDR]

So I droped by my LHS after work today and ended up buying aluminum suspension bocks for the front and rear with a discount.

I talked to the owener about the light wieght cups. They are lighter so there is less rotating mass, but with the heavy stock ones there is more momentum when the car is already moving. so I think the stock ones arn't all that bad.

But in In any case, buying hop-ups for this car is too addictive even tho it probably won't make my car too fast, but atleast it looks Über cool :cool:
Call me crazy but Im most likely going to spend an overall total of $200cnd on hop-ups for this car

Here are somemore pics of the suspension blocks just for fun...

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/edguna1/ALsuspension.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/edguna1/rear.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/edguna1/front.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/edguna1/both2.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a206/edguna1/both.jpg


btw TheoDR nice 04.. I tried doing the PVC thing awhile back too....didn't really work for me tho..the car just spun in circiles haha
Ooohh, the blue makes it look so bling bling!!! Haha, thanks! Will be switching back the normal tyres to have drag races with my neighbour. Miss those times where we'd have 04 vs XRAY, and both cars were very evenly matched. So it all boiled down to aerodynamics and drafting techniques to overtake at the last moment and win. Haha, fun!!!!

[TheoDR]

I've got more than 200CDN slapped on mine and I ain't even got the fancy aluminium blocks yet! Tamiya stuff is pricy...
Its already blown a huge hole in my pocket! But am considering the TA05 in the future as I've a spare ESC (LRP IPC Pro Sport) lying around. *drool drool drool*

[TEM]

Its already blown a huge hole in my pocket! But am considering the TA05 in the future as I've a spare ESC (LRP IPC Pro Sport) lying around. *drool drool drool*

My TA04's have been running real good and well underweight so I'm happy. The only things I like about the TA05 is more weight to the front and the belt design, but I'm not going to touch the first versions of it. It needs too much upgrades to make it competitive enough, and I hear it's heavy. Gonna wait for a TRF version (not even an "R", cause my TA04"R" needed too much upgrades). The TB-02R is a heavy car too, so no-go for me...

[minijosh]

BLAH the tb02. I hated mine and I'll never buy another one even if it was a R version. I won't touch the TA05 either. I'm keeping it real hehe. Plus I don't need a new touring car.

[microrcdude]

You know what? Josh says that, then two days later he has a losi! I mean c'mon josh, tamiyas where its at!

[TRF Drive Hard]

Must find a pic of my TRF 04... i'll show you bling... :D

[TEM]

If you think we only hate torque rods you should think again. How lucky do you feel with a losi? Really?

TRF, how many diamonds you got in your mouth?

[TheoDR]

My TA04's have been running real good and well underweight so I'm happy. The only things I like about the TA05 is more weight to the front and the belt design, but I'm not going to touch the first versions of it. It needs too much upgrades to make it competitive enough, and I hear it's heavy. Gonna wait for a TRF version (not even an "R", cause my TA04"R" needed too much upgrades). The TB-02R is a heavy car too, so no-go for me...
I used to have a heavily modded TB02 but didn't touch it, in the end it got sold off. Will probably be waiting for the TA05R too, though the Ferrari F430 kit looks very very very tempting!

Hehe, my 04 is the reigning queen now! Sold off about 4 r/c cars to fund this baby...:)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y182/TheoDR/NRS_geom400.jpg

Powered by HKS? Hahahahaa...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y182/TheoDR/HKS_Montage.jpg

Haha, we all know a "HKS GT-R" can kick a Lambo's ass anytime! LOL!!!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y182/TheoDR/NRSLambo400.jpg

[TEM]

Ferrari 430 not tempting at all, looks disgusting like all first gen tamiya cars. Doesn't even have threaded shocks! Wheres the blue?

Bicycles get disgustingly expensive and I'm glad I got out of it long ago. Still got my Bianchi road bike hung up in the garage though.

[TRF Drive Hard]

If you think we only hate torque rods you should think again. How lucky do you feel with a losi? Really?

TRF, how many diamonds you got in your mouth?

I got some Zirconia that can pass off for diamonds :D

[TheoDR]

Ferrari 430 not tempting at all, looks disgusting like all first gen tamiya cars. Doesn't even have threaded shocks! Wheres the blue?

Bicycles get disgustingly expensive and I'm glad I got out of it long ago. Still got my Bianchi road bike hung up in the garage though.
Heh!! Bicycles are very expensive!!! I had to sell off the 4 cars (2nd hand prices) just to get the fork!!! But it performs like a dream though!

Yeah, first gen Tamiya cars aren't that bang-for-buck, gonna wait for the TA05R!

[TRI-TURBO]

The rear carbonfiber shock tower finaly came in today, and i had a few pratice runs with my friend at the LHS. I think its safe to say that I am done hopping up this car...well atleast for now haha.

all the hop-ups gave a little more tuning options for my car and are very nice, but overall I think my favorite hop-up are the aluminum wheel pin adapters! thos plastic stock ones alwasye annoyed me, so I was quite pleased when the aluminum conectors stuck on the car whenever I took of my wheels...biggest wow factor for me haha :rolleyes:


oh yea and speaking of the Ferrari F430, i saw a really nice red F430 spyder when driving home from work...it was soooo nice..

I higly doubt i will be getting a TA05, or any other on road toruring car for a long long time.. I don't think the design changes from the TA04 to the TA05 are that big...especailly when compared from the TA03 to the TA04!!


I am actualy thinking about getting a TNX pro..but I don't really know since its pretty $$$$

[TRF TT-01]

Hey, get the TNX before the BOYTOYS TCS :D

[TRF TT-01]

Actually the design of TA05 is big. You should go to the TA05 forum and chech out the pictures.

[minijosh]

The first gen of cars from Tamiya are so much better looking than the stupid new, lets copy everyone, i'll throw on some carbon fiber to sell, it will break within 5 minutes cars of today. I have a porsche 935 and you cannot say that that isn't one of the best looking touring cars ever made and if you do, you are dumb and or blind.

[TEM]

The first gen of cars from Tamiya are so much better looking than the stupid new, lets copy everyone, i'll throw on some carbon fiber to sell, it will break within 5 minutes cars of today. I have a porsche 935 and you cannot say that that isn't one of the best looking touring cars ever made and if you do, you are dumb and or blind.

By first generation I meant first versions, and usually lower trim levels. First TA04's had gear diffs, non-threaded plastic shocks, and I think dogbones instead of cvds?, etc, etc. It's like 3 levels up before you get the "works" with all the trimmings out of the box. It is a scheme to make more money, but the cars do perform accordingly. Tamiya take their dear time to come out with the "TRF" trim level cars and in the mean time sell a crapload of expensive hop-ups. Thats exactly why I'm not touching a TA05 until a "TRF" comes out.

All cars have weaknesses. And the faster you go, the less tough the cars seem. You may think that back in the day, your car didn't break as much, but todays cars/motors/batts go a lot faster than they did!

[minijosh]

Well I'm gonna breath life back into my TA04. I might sell the XXX-s and bring her out of retirement. Has anyone talked to Ted aka TRF drive hard? I haven't since he got back from New Mexico. Not too sure if I should keep racing stock motors or go 19 turn aka super stock. I just need to upgrade the front and rear shock tower and she's a full blow TRF. I sold off the SSG because the black CF is sexy. I'll race any TT01 and smack them into the ground. The TA04 has to be Tamiya's best club racing car ever.

[KoE]

Well I'm gonna breath life back into my TA04. ...The TA04 has to be Tamiya's best club racing car ever.

hey josh...ya have spare gear covers and ehemm cf lower deck to spare :D

TA04 is definitely nice, imho...looks wayyy better than the ugly 05

[minijosh]

Get your own.

[KoE]

ouchhh! boooo :p

[minijosh]

LOL ask mr I have every single piece of tamiya hop ups ever made underneath my bed.

[TRI-TURBO]

Hey does anybody know what the best gearing is for a TA04R with a 19turn?
I tried 33 and 128 but it seemed a lilttle slow. and the 33 pinion won't with a 120 spur :(

[TEM]

Hey does anybody know what the best gearing is for a TA04R with a 19turn?
I tried 33 and 128 but it seemed a lilttle slow. and the 33 pinion won't with a 120 spur :(

It will depend on motor and track size. I only run C2's. Off my head something between 38-40 pinion and 120 spur, rubber tires, 63-64mm dia.

[minijosh]

I'm running a 19 Chamelion 2 Pro with a 120 spur and a I'm to lazy to find some shorts to wear and get the pinion wrench out of my car but it's big and silver lol. 64 pitch rules indoors. I run T27 rubber tires with HPI Sprint wheels. The wheels are super soft and help give better grip. Kind of weird but it works.

[TRI-TURBO]

Im using a Chamelion 19turn with a V2 enbell that I won a while back. Ill probably try a 39 pinion. hopefully it stops raning today, and hopefully it dosn't rain this weekend :o

[TRF TT-01]

Hey TRI-TURBO, you should break-in the motor brush before running it.

[minijosh]

I never break mine in. I just run it. I run a 44 tooth pinion. I just got unlazy and got my toolz.

[cheerwhiner]

does anybody know someplace that still has the saddle pack chassis for the TA-04?? I've been looking and I would love to have it!!!!!!!

[microrcdude]

i think minijosh has one, ask him, he may sell to u

[cheerwhiner]

well the ta04 is the official car of my store, in terms of driving it in the parking lot during the middle of the day to attract on lookers to our shop :D Its a tank.

[microrcdude]

haha thats actually a smart idea. Thanks man!

[grumpyhead]

hi. i'm new to this forum and am hoping someone can help me. if this has already been answered, i apologize in advance. i've done my best to read the entire thread... but it's really long. it's a fun read though.

i'm rebuilding the rear ball diff in my ta04r and am getting very frustrated. i am unable to get the diff to operate smoothly. when i turn the outdrives while holding the diff gear, it feels tight during some parts of the rotation and loose in other parts. i've had this problem before on my tb02, but i swapped locknuts and the problem went away. on this ta04, i've used three different locknuts (MA10) and two diff screws (MA6), and i still get the same result. what am i doing wrong?

note: i've experimented with the diff screw and locknut only and have discovered that the nut screws on crooked. i've tried multiple screws and nuts and they are all the same. do i just have a bad batch?

[cheerwhiner]

well now a nitro tc3 is doing the dirty work in the parking lot. honestly it turns a few more heads being nitro. But the TA04 is still used to show what electrics are all about.

I don't know about your diff.

[TRF-Inferno]

Let's bump this ol' chap right back up. I bought a TA-04SS with a set of those blue TRF dampeners, and was wondering if anyone can recommen me some gearings for a 19T mod motor? Thanks in advance.

[KoE]

LOL ask mr I have every single piece of tamiya hop ups ever made underneath my bed.

now....do i know that person? LOL! wassup dude?

[TEM]

Let's bump this ol' chap right back up. I bought a TA-04SS with a set of those blue TRF dampeners, and was wondering if anyone can recommen me some gearings for a 19T mod motor? Thanks in advance.


Rubber tires, probably looking at 37-40 pinion to a 128 spur is a good place to start. Will depend on motor, traction, track setup, etc...

[TRF-Inferno]

Rubber tires, probably looking at 37-40 pinion to a 128 spur is a good place to start. Will depend on motor, traction, track setup, etc...
Sorry, it's on carpet. I'm just trying to find a balanced gearing, not too particular ona either topend or acceleration, just something to prevent the motor from being over or under-geared. I had a TA-04 Pro about a year ago but I don't remember what I had on it.

[TEM]

Sorry, it's on carpet. I'm just trying to find a balanced gearing, not too particular ona either topend or acceleration, just something to prevent the motor from being over or under-geared. I had a TA-04 Pro about a year ago but I don't remember what I had on it.

19T (spec motors like a chameleon for say), 37/128 is good on a tight track, rubber tires on carpet. Longer track go bigger pinion, 2-3 teeth bigger is fine. Just set it up and try running it. These are suggested starting points. It's a good idea to keep around a good set of pinions.

[TRF-Inferno]

Thank you.

[TEM]

Thank you.

No problem. Just a quick check.. you're not running torque rods are you?

[TRF Drive Hard]

^^^was wondering when u would ask that :p lmao

[TRF-Inferno]

No problem. Just a quick check.. you're not running torque rods are you?
I don't know, does the TA-04SS kit come with one? http://70.86.201.180/forum/images/smilies/laugh.gif I ordered it yesterday and it should come in tommorow or Friday. What's wrong with the torque rods?

[TEM]

I don't know, does the TA-04SS kit come with one? http://70.86.201.180/forum/images/smilies/laugh.gif I ordered it yesterday and it should come in tommorow or Friday. What's wrong with the torque rods?

Do a search on the ta04 threads for more info on torque rods as well as organizations against them. I think there are no torque rods in the SS kit.. thank god..

[TRF-Inferno]

Thanks for the gearing recommendation, TEM. I finally got it running today on the carpet track and it gave one of the regular's FT TC4 hell. :D Even with only the TRF dampeners, it was still one excellent handler. I was able to get a faster time with this car than my TA-05.

[KoE]

pushing this thread back up since TCS is coming into town for the 1st time next year and i hate TA05 ...so gotta dig up the ol stuffs and revive my precious :D kinda wondering where the heck is Ted da TRFTuner is now :eek:

[TRF-Inferno]

pushing this thread back up since TCS is coming into town for the 1st time next year and i hate TA05.
Really? I had a TA-04 Pro, sold it for a TA-05 and then step back into the TA-04 territory with the TA-04SS. :D Unfortunately it's out for action right now because the rear gear diffs stripped out on me, so I'm planning to convert to a front one-way and rear ball diffs after Christmas. Quite a shame too, I had it running real good.

[KoE]

05 owners prol bash the crap out of me LOL...but 05 simply doesn't give that appealing look to me. heck 05 might be technically better too but 04 rocks. i'm not sure if Ted still has his souped up 04s ... those things are awesome

[TRF Drive Hard]

05 owners prol bash the crap out of me LOL...but 05 simply doesn't give that appealing look to me. heck 05 might be technically better too but 04 rocks. i'm not sure if Ted still has his souped up 04s ... those things are awesome

I still have 2... but i may end up sellin my other 1 (not souped but with all the parts laying around eeerrrr boxed up somewhere i can make a decent 04)

[KoE]

... a decent 04

read: astronomical, funky looking shelf queen :eek:

[TRF Drive Hard]

read: astronomical, funky looking shelf queen :eek:

:p :D

[geist_darkblade]

I am so happy I just got a MRS TA04ss chassis. Are the Florutine shocks worth getting?

[TRF Drive Hard]

They are pretty much standard nowadays... actually one of the best shocks ever!

[geist_darkblade]

What gearing is best for a P2K stock motor?

[TRF Drive Hard]

128/33-36 range i believe ;)

[geist_darkblade]

128/33-36 range i believe ;)
Is that with the kit pinion?

[geist_darkblade]

Oh I am getting the florutine shocks, 2 pairs of the plastic outdrives,the aluminuim steering post and 1 replacement pair of drive shafts. I got it in slightly used but not well cared for condition.

[-=ADA$=-]

its been awhile since i was here, but i have couple of problems, and thats why my ta-04 is sitting on shelf, number one is that ESC is smoked and i need new ;(, another thing is that my rear belt is getting worn on one side (and rear pully also is worn on one side, its hard for me to explain, but i might someday post a photo of it, so Youll help me on this one)
And last thing is, since i got it used i didnt know the car well, so after recent disassemble i noticed i have no springs in the diffs (and as i understand there should be some) and i want to ask if its possible to buy them separately, whole diffs cost almost $30, which is too much just for 2 springs ill use (i already ordered rear pulley), and do You know where to get them?? cause it will be my girlfriends car, and i would like here to start driving/raceing as soon as possible.
Thanks mates for help

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hmm, i came out empty looking for the diff springs... my usual source carries loads of 7 digit numbered spare parts... but not this time, i think he is slacking :p but ima check around and see...

[-=ADA$=-]

well i think that previous owner, my friend on the other hand, probably lost them when building the kit, and here i am spring-less :D
So You say its possible to get these springs separatelly? it would be great, i wouldnt have to spend $30 for $3 part.Thanks alot

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well since im sitting on loads of tamiya parts, i may have one lying around if you need it...

[-=ADA$=-]

the problem is i dont have both, and i presume they should be there (they wouldnt give them if they were not necessary.
But maybe it will fit from other car, like from TA-05??

[KoE]

DH, they are doing TCS 2006 back here! ima need to rebuilt my 04 since 415 aint allowed to run. ya have TCS-legit 04 laying around?

[TRF Drive Hard]

What u lookin for KoE?

[KoE]

lw lower deck & gear cases. not sure if 04 has alu steering rack tho....does it? i still have the original tub chassis too...that any good?

[TRF Drive Hard]

lw lower deck & gear cases. not sure if 04 has alu steering rack tho....does it? i still have the original tub chassis too...that any good?

Im sure i have those... but the aluminum rack? like post? or wiper arms?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Check your PayPal KoE! Check it!!! :p

[KoE]

wiper arms?

yeah the arms! mine has little crack running thru :(

DH...i've accepted the new year bonus LOL!

[TRF Drive Hard]

yeah the arms! mine has little crack running thru :(

DH...i've accepted the new year bonus LOL!

What new year bonus? :confused:

[geist_darkblade]

I have a question on the difference between the normal TA04 and the ss. Do they use the same tub chassis? Iam just wondering becuase I see replacement chassis on Ebay saying that the tub chassis will work for both versions. Will this work or just make the ss longer? I want to know how that works so I can try and figure out how to get the lightweight tub chassis with saddle pack slots to work om my MRS chassis and still use that body.

[TRF Drive Hard]

The suspension arms are different... this gives the overall wheelbase a shorter, um... well its a short wheelbase compared to the normal 04... short by 10mm so the bodies used for the SS is "short"

[geist_darkblade]

So changing the arms and not the chassis changes what bodies will fit? Dose that mean that you can make a ss with the silver carbon fiber chassis? I appologize if my questions are dumb. I just want to see what I can modify while still being able to run the MRS body. I have the ball bearing and one way diffs in. I also have the lightweight outdrives on the ball diff. I will have the gunmetal shocks on when I get them in. Dose that mean the lightweight reversable arms will make it longer?

[TA04RNSX]

Anyone running the TA04 with the Tamiya 11T motor? I'm running on a tight carpet track and the stock pinion with the 112T spur just isn't working. The motor has no torque and all the power is high up in the rev range. I've got the 30T and 31T pinion on order. For a tight track would a P2K2 be better than the 11T turn motor?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Anyone running the TA04 with the Tamiya 11T motor? I'm running on a tight carpet track and the stock pinion with the 112T spur just isn't working. The motor has no torque and all the power is high up in the rev range. I've got the 30T and 31T pinion on order. For a tight track would a P2K2 be better than the 11T turn motor?

As i understand it, from what others told me, a P2K2 Pro is better for tight tracks, more torque for tight tracks, more rpm for big tracks... a 128/33-35pinion range is good too... (i think O_o ) :p

[geist_darkblade]

I just saw a sweet ssg Ta04 that a guy was selling on Ebay. He had a carbon MRS body on it. I am not posting a link I found it by just searching. I used the term TA04. Oh can someone tell me wich of the wire on the silver can motor is positive? I have a esc and can not figure wich wire is + or -. After I hook this up I can start playing with my car.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Yellow

[geist_darkblade]

Thanks TRF.

[TEM]

Just incase some of you TA04 supporters are falling asleep, I have here a clip of one of my TA04R's in action. This car is bone stock except for the non-R hubs,and tires.

www.enbid.com/david/TA04R.zip

Available for a limited time only......

[TA04RNSX]

Wow, that thing is quick. I've got a TA04R and I need help on setup.

I need details please. Pinion/Spur, motor, springs, stabilizers, tires, etc.

[TEM]

Actually that car is slow and ill-handling compared to back when I used to race. Now I just hang around the track occasionally for the sake of hanging out and shooting the sh*t with the others. I just posted that video on this thread to remind the TA04 people to let your cars stretch it's legs cause theres not much going on in the thread.

The TA04-R is decent, right out of the box. TRF shocks, Ball diffs, and droop screws are amongst the most important in handling improvment over the lower trim levels. TRF cars have one-ways but they are not for everyone. You just got to know what you are doing and hop-ups should be for those who know what they are doing as well and changing a car to the way you like things. The car in the video "drives" meaning I won't look like total dumba$$ at the track, but will need mods and work if I was to race it (which is my TA04-R #2). The car is capable of much more than what you saw in the video!

NO TORQUE RODS! Yellow springs, yellow sway bars, kit oil too(40wt?)! 19T C2 motor. 37/128 with almost 66mm tire diameter which I did not calculate to be right or wrong rollout (seems high!). I just wanted to run the car! Speedmind hybrids front, 37R in the rear. I didn't even true them down but I did take the front width down almost 2mm(so it would clear the camber link without increasing outside width if I put the tires on a car with R hubs, but this car has the non-R ones, however). -2degrees front camber, -3degrees rear camber. 4 and 4.5mm front/rear ride height, something like 2mm droop either end. If I was to put rubbers on the car it would be tamiya A's or CS-22's, -1 and -1.5 for camber and 4-5mm of droop. Car might corner with a little less speed but it will "drive" just fine. Shock locations, front is outside outside, rear is inside outside (top mount bottom mount), camber links: front top inside hole on shock tower, rear is outside on the hub, inside bottom row on shock tower.

I'm not sure if giving you a box stock setup will solve your problems, but it's something to play with anyways. The bottom line is you got to understand what each setup parameter does. If she needs more droop, add more droop, if she needs harder springs, put on harder springs, etc, etc, etc.

[TA04RNSX]

Thanks for the info TEM. My main problem is that my car torque rolls a lot and yet the cornering isn't as flat as the other cars at the track. I guess i need harder springs and heavier shock oil. I'm still using the clear shock fluid that the car car with and the yellow springs. The car has no problems going fast but I really lose time in the corners. Also, what the heck is a torque rod?? lol. Are you referring to the stabilizers? If so, i'm running the stock yellow stabilizers. They are so soft that I don't really see how they can effect handling at all. My gearing is the same as yours and i'm using a P2K2 motor. Tires are Cyan in the front and Magenta in the back and they're not trued. This could be the cause of the torque roll.

[TEM]

Thanks for the info TEM. My main problem is that my car torque rolls a lot and yet the cornering isn't as flat as the other cars at the track. I guess i need harder springs and heavier shock oil. I'm still using the clear shock fluid that the car car with and the yellow springs. The car has no problems going fast but I really lose time in the corners. Also, what the heck is a torque rod?? lol. Are you referring to the stabilizers? If so, i'm running the stock yellow stabilizers. They are so soft that I don't really see how they can effect handling at all. My gearing is the same as yours and i'm using a P2K2 motor. Tires are Cyan in the front and Magenta in the back and they're not trued. This could be the cause of the torque roll.

Torque rods are those evil turnbuckles that run from a ball stud above the steering posts to the front hubs. They come with the racing front hubs. The standard TA04(non R) cars don't have them. They do a few things. They induce reactive castor (car was not designed to have reactive castor), and if you take a hit and bend the ball stud that holds them, they tweak the front end big time! Plus they are an extra 4 grams that your car does NOT need! Read through this thread on my anti torque rod organization.

As for anti-roll bars, or stabilizers; yes, use them. The car has yellows on them right now (as I said, box stock). I got complete sets of front and rear sway bars but I haven't actually played with them much considering I was able to setup a car#2 exactly the way I want without needing to play with them. They look thin, but they work. You can alway run without them and see how you like it (not written in stone you must use roll bars but it's in my code of conduct not to use torque rods) With foam tires (or any tires anyways), you should learn to calculate rollout and not ratios. I mean 37/128 works today, but the tires get smaller as you use them! then you would need 38, 39, etc, etc to compensate for it. Having foams too big also causes the car to roll too much around a corner. 66mm dia foams is a death wish. Foams should be true down and the edges should be rounded in the process! By torque roll do you mean traction roll? Just a quick one; are your tires wearing flat? or are your foams wearing tapered/coned shapped? They should wear flat(adjust camber links to compensate). Cyan front and magenta rear seems fine. Are you cornering slower or faster than mine? I'm running pretty much as stock as you can get! Check your ride height and droop!

[TA04RNSX]

Torque rods are those evil turnbuckles that run from a ball stud above the steering posts to the front hubs. They come with the racing front hubs. The standard TA04(non R) cars don't have them. They do a few things. They induce reactive castor (car was not designed to have reactive castor), and if you take a hit and bend the ball stud that holds them, they tweak the front end big time! Plus they are an extra 4 grams that your car does NOT need! Read through this thread on my anti torque rod organization.

As for anti-roll bars, or stabilizers; yes, use them. The car has yellows on them right now (as I said, box stock). I got complete sets of front and rear sway bars but I haven't actually played with them much considering I was able to setup a car#2 exactly the way I want without needing to play with them. They look thin, but they work. You can alway run without them and see how you like it (not written in stone you must use roll bars but it's in my code of conduct not to use torque rods) With foam tires (or any tires anyways), you should learn to calculate rollout and not ratios. I mean 37/128 works today, but the tires get smaller as you use them! then you would need 38, 39, etc, etc to compensate for it. Having foams too big also causes the car to roll too much around a corner. 66mm dia foams is a death wish. Foams should be true down and the edges should be rounded in the process! By torque roll do you mean traction roll? Just a quick one; are your tires wearing flat? or are your foams wearing tapered/coned shapped? They should wear flat(adjust camber links to compensate). Cyan front and magenta rear seems fine. Are you cornering slower or faster than mine? I'm running pretty much as stock as you can get! Check your ride height and droop!
Yeah, I mean't to say traction roll. I've taken the torque rods off and will test the car out like that. The tires are wearing pretty much flat. My cornering is much slower than yours. The car understeers alot and the inside wheels spin, also the car just rolls over sometimes. I think the main problem is the tall profile of the foam tires. Also, how do I adjust ride height and droop?

[Aluma]

i cant see the vid for some reason... :( it opens in quicktime and I hear sound, but no video... :P

[TEM]

The video should open fine with windows media player. Don't ask me about MAC's. Can't feel the love if you can't hear the sound!

Comprehensive way of setting ride height and droop
Droop and Ride height?.. For ride height, back the droop screws out a few turns(cause they limit how far down the arms can hang), turn the shock collars until you reached the ride height you want. But remember, ride height is the underchassis height after rebound of the shocks; meaning you press the car down (compress shock) and when you release, you measure the distance between the surface the car sits on and the bottom of the chassis. You can measure this distance with a ride height gauge (a tapered stick with measurements on it). OR you can slide a stick or spacer or something thats the thickness of the ride height you want. I normally set the rear ride height between .5 to 1mm higher in the rear than the front. This gives more weight transfer to the front when breaking(going into a corner). After ride height is established, I check camber with a camber gauge(remember camber gauges are not accurate). When you change ride height, camber changes. Toe can be affected as well but I don't worry about toe right now(assuming it was accurate before we do all this). Now I put the car on a tweak station checking both front and back ends to ensure weight under the front wheels are the same and weight under the rear wheels are the same. (I do own digital scales but in most cases, a tweak station is fine; unless you run a car thats got a lot more weight on one side or you want to balance the car by physical weight distribution). Most good cars have decent weight distribution already, in most cases, indifferences is not enough to kill the average club racer. LR front same and LR rear same is good enough. After the tweaking, the ride height is disturbed slightly but not enough to hurt anybody. There is no way a car's rideheight(left vs right) is the same unless the car is perfectly balanced by weight left, right and diagonally and you used matched springs. This is why droop gauges don't work accurately for most of us! Ok, now I bolt on a setup station to accurately set camber and toe and steering deflection. Finally we now set the droop! put the car towards yourself on the flatboard front wheels along the edge. Compress shock and release. Using the tip of something pointy(ie small allen or a knife), lift the chassis under the front wheels along the centerline of the chassis. If droop is 3mm, the wheels should lift off the surface when you move the chassis 3mm upwards. If not, turn the droop screws and repeat until both wheels lift at the same time when you compress shock, release, and lift chassis 3mm up. Turn the car around and set the rear droop.

[TEM]

That looks like a lot of work doesn't it?.. Shouldn't take more than 10 mins after you get used to it. Looks like a lot of tools too! Camber gauge, tweak station, setup station, setup board, ride height gauge. RC isn't cheap. Not saying you should go out and buy everything either. But I hope you can read what I wrote(I spent time on it!) and try and understand the theory behind it and you can find your own way of doing things and making it work for you.

[TA04RNSX]

That looks like a lot of work doesn't it?.. Shouldn't take more than 10 mins after you get used to it. Looks like a lot of tools too! Camber gauge, tweak station, setup station, setup board, ride height gauge. RC isn't cheap. Not saying you should go out and buy everything either. But I hope you can read what I wrote(I spent time on it!) and try and understand the theory behind it and you can find your own way of doing things and making it work for you.
Thanks again for all that info TEM. It is a lot but i'll definitely need to understand it to set the car up properly. Also, since I don't have all the equipment i'm gonna have to wait till I go to the track and borrow someones equip. I really should've spent money on setup equipment rather than 10 cars.

[-=ADA$=-]

so could any of You direct me place where i can get diff springs??
Thanks

[-=ADA$=-]

Or rather any place that sells 7 digit parts, cause ill need 2 thrust bearing, 2 diff springs, and diff balls which are the only part i can find anywhere. And i think ill never buy anything used

[geist_darkblade]

Well I am having no luck with my Esc. So I decide to go to a brushless system. What gearing do I need with the Novak super stock?

[TEM]

Or rather any place that sells 7 digit parts, cause ill need 2 thrust bearing, 2 diff springs, and diff balls which are the only part i can find anywhere. And i think ill never buy anything used

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php?products_id=9645

These are TA05 ones but I'm 99% certain they fit, you can always contact the vendor and ask.

My only other suggestion is to get into contact with a tamiya sponsored driver or your region's tamiya representative to hook you up.

Who offered to sell you a used TA04 diff spring?

[TRF Drive Hard]

I offered, didnt intend to ask for money, just thought i give it to him... but he neither showed interest either :rolleyes:

[-=ADA$=-]

I found all parts on SpeedtechRC.com (but not in stock) hopefully they can order them, and ill try RC-mushroom also.
My local Tamiya retailer, or even national retailer wont be much help, he stocks only TA-01 TB-01 and TT-01 parts, chepest most popular here.
But thanks for help anyways.

[minijosh]

Oh snap guess who's back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[minijosh]

I'm going to retire my Losi and start racing my TA04 again. 19 turn with a corvette shell sounds good to me.

[TEM]

Oh snap guess who's back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You talking about Mase? It's been over 2 yrs.. Everyone knows already! :p

Welcome back!... Some of us (like myself) never left!... I still run an 04, among other things........

[minijosh]

How much better, if any, is the ta05 than our rides? Just wondering.

[TEM]

How much better, if any, is the ta05 than our rides? Just wondering.

Do a search and you'll probably find I have already posted on this topic. If you got the $$$, a totally done up TA05 is probably faster than a TA04. I'll probably buy a TRF version when it comes out to save $. Even my TA04R has a lot of money slapped on top of the "R". Did you see the video I posted? That was only my box stock one!

It's always going back to "it depends on if you know what you are doing". The drive train is smoother on the TA05 and the cg is a tad lower. But not everyone can benefit from it. I have an issue with putting batteries on one side cause not all packs weight the same, but thats just my own internal struggle. Basically, if you are not podium A-main material with a 04, an 05 won't put you there! However, it's just good to stay current with equipment, thats all.

[minijosh]

Thanks TEM. To me the car sort of looks like a street weapon from the mid mounted motor but that's just me.

[KoE]

i'm wondering if TA04 has alu rear upright or not...

[minijosh]

WOW he's alive. As for your question, I have no idea but GPM probably has it out there somewhere. OH if you want a TA04 chassis for saddle packs, Penguin RC has them for sale still.

[KoE]

lol mini.. :p i need original tamiya parts for the upcoming TCS. thought i had my bases covered till i found out that i forgot about knuckles :( hate to order from japan just for a set or 2 of knuckles. where's ted when u need him lol

[minijosh]

I can take off my original ones if you need them.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Both of you guys are alive! lol

[KoE]

I can take off my original ones if you need them.

thanks dude :D but i really need to get a few myself to run tcs. 04 has the tendency to lose kingpin too frequent

[Aluma]

really? hmmm, guess thats why i use one tiny drop of superglue gel on the kinpin screw right before carefully guiding into place. ;)

[TEM]

I don't think theres really a need for aluminium rear uprights. The hard ones are strong and I haven't seen one break. As for front uprights, are you running torque rods? They put more stress on the kingpins too by pushing the carriers forward so get rid of them! Anyhow, use the hard front uprights which are much stronger. Stock a couple packages of uprights, king pins and ball end king pins as spares. This isn't too bad considering everything else on the car rarely breaks. Lastly, try not to hit anything!

[KoE]

bling factor dude! LOL

[KoE]

quick help needed here...

high downforce tamiya body;
tamiya rubber tyre and insert for carpet (i really don't have a clue about tamiya tyre and insert rating);
size of the screws that attach the front swaybar to the arm

i have a little over 2 weeks to spruce up the 04 before local TCS starts :D

[KoE]

i've got the bodies, tires, inserts and rims ready.

just need to know the size of the screws that hold the front swaybar/anti-roll bar to the arm (lost that lil' manual :rolleyes: ) teeeeeeddddddd!!!!!

[TEM]

i've got the bodies, tires, inserts and rims ready.

just need to know the size of the screws that hold the front swaybar/anti-roll bar to the arm (lost that lil' manual :rolleyes: ) teeeeeeddddddd!!!!!

It's a 2.6X12

[KoE]

thanks dude!

[EvaderBX]

Hey guys, im new here just built a ta04. pics soon

[Prelude14WRX]

I have a question about the TA-04.....does the stock "S" chassis accept side by side packs? Im trying to decide what would be best for TCS for me...TA-04, 05, or TB-02. Sorry about my stupid question...probably already been asked before.

[TEM]

I have a question about the TA-04.....does the stock "S" chassis accept side by side packs? Im trying to decide what would be best for TCS for me...TA-04, 05, or TB-02. Sorry about my stupid question...probably already been asked before.

The S will take side by side packs. Why would you want a stock S? It's kind of short of goodies. What you want is atleast an R car. There are 2 version of the tub chassis that will take side by side. But unfortunately the cheaper chassis does not have cut outs and your batts sit higher and so you have a higher CG.

As for which car for TCS; if you race a tub chassis class, everyone will tell you that you have to have a TA05. Although the drive train seems smoother in the TA05, a properly done up TA04 will be no slower on the straight. The TA04 is a much lighter car, stiffer chassis(though I have not tried the new graphite tub for the TA05), shares the same suspension geometry and same available optional suspension geometry(for those who want to go LW susp). I've proven myself by placing well in the A-mains for TCS races in GT1 and GT2 with a TA04R! So the remaining (usually around 20+cars per class where I ran) consisting of TRF415's, EVO4's for GT1 and TA05's in GT2 can kiss my a$$! You got to be a pretty good driver to be able to differentiate the marginal differences between the cars and make use of it. Anyone who gained more than a few tenths per lap going from one car to another on the same given class and track has absolute no idea what they are doing!

I've got a TA04R for sale, PM me if you're interested. It's the car in the video here: www.enbid.com/david/ta04r.zip Selling it pretty cheaply too cause I got too many of them.

[EvaderBX]

I have a TA04 TRF for sale. It has the following upgrades:
Hitec HS-5925 mg
LRP AI pro reverse ( 10 t motor limit )
3300 bat with deans
Brand new Team Orion revolution never used
Brand new never used Spektrum radio

This car is sooo nice heres some pics
http://x10.putfile.com/3/8219541879-thumb.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=3/8219541879.jpg&s=x10)

http://x10.putfile.com/3/8219494438-thumb.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=3/8219494438.jpg&s=x10)

http://x10.putfile.com/3/8320315146-thumb.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=3/8320315146.jpg&s=x10)

http://x10.putfile.com/3/8320333673-thumb.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=3/8320333673.jpg&s=x10)

I am open to offers on the cash...just give me an offer please.

H20595@aol.com

[Prelude14WRX]

The S will take side by side packs. Why would you want a stock S? It's kind of short of goodies. What you want is atleast an R car. There are 2 version of the tub chassis that will take side by side. But unfortunately the cheaper chassis does not have cut outs and your batts sit higher and so you have a higher CG.

As for which car for TCS; if you race a tub chassis class, everyone will tell you that you have to have a TA05. Although the drive train seems smoother in the TA05, a properly done up TA04 will be no slower on the straight. The TA04 is a much lighter car, stiffer chassis(though I have not tried the new graphite tub for the TA05), shares the same suspension geometry and same available optional suspension geometry(for those who want to go LW susp). I've proven myself by placing well in the A-mains for TCS races in GT1 and GT2 with a TA04R! So the remaining (usually around 20+cars per class where I ran) consisting of TRF415's, EVO4's for GT1 and TA05's in GT2 can kiss my a$$! You got to be a pretty good driver to be able to differentiate the marginal differences between the cars and make use of it. Anyone who gained more than a few tenths per lap going from one car to another on the same given class and track has absolute no idea what they are doing!

I've got a TA04R for sale, PM me if you're interested. It's the car in the video here: www.enbid.com/david/ta04r.zip Selling it pretty cheaply too cause I got too many of them.

Well, I would love to spend hundreds of dollars on an "R" tamiya, but it isn't worth it for once or twice a year at 17(with not that much money). I race an X-ray FK04 and it seems pointless to have two awesome cars and only use one twice a year. I took a tt-01 in gt-3 and tq'd the B-main(stupid slow car..lol). So, I know if I get a sport model I would do just fine. Thanks for answering my question about the side by side packs. I would love to buy your TA-04R.....but I won't be buying my next TCS car untill the next indoor season...but thanks for the offer. I have been researching about the three cars I stated earlier...and it seems like the TA-04 is the best for GT-3 because it is lighter and it has the same suspension has the TB-02 and 05.

[KoE]

just came back from 1st TCS back here..the O0-Four was okay...the driver needs a lot more practice...dang!

[minijosh]

It's always the drivers fault. The car is perfect. Getting a bit rust aren't we KoE? How did you finish?

[minijosh]

I have a TA04 TRF for sale. It has the following upgrades:
Hitec HS-5925 mg
LRP AI pro reverse ( 10 t motor limit )
3300 bat with deans
Brand new Team Orion revolution never used
Brand new never used Spektrum radio

This car is sooo nice heres some pics
http://x10.putfile.com/3/8219541879-thumb.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=3/8219541879.jpg&s=x10)

http://x10.putfile.com/3/8219494438-thumb.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=3/8219494438.jpg&s=x10)

http://x10.putfile.com/3/8320315146-thumb.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=3/8320315146.jpg&s=x10)

http://x10.putfile.com/3/8320333673-thumb.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=3/8320333673.jpg&s=x10)

I am open to offers on the cash...just give me an offer please.

H20595@aol.com


$40 shipped to me haha.

[EvaderBX]

I will sell with the servo and motor and batt for....300 shipped. H2o595@aol.com
Doug

[TEM]

Wow!.. Mine's almost box stock R and I only want like 100bucks for it!

[KoE]

It's always the drivers fault. The car is perfect. Getting a bit rust aren't we KoE? How did you finish?

waayyyy too rusty dude :D i'd really prefer to hide the score LOL! inverted arms...uprights... ya get the picture LOL

[kidrobot3]

sup guys whats the lowest motor turn can the ta04 can handle????

[KoE]

even brushless dude!!!

[kidrobot3]

which novak brushless motor that ta04 can handle????can it handle a 5.5 novak brushless or a 6.6

[KoE]

i never had brushless in my car but i doubt 04 cannot take any 540-sized motor of any wind brush or brushless. u might be tight on space for GTB tho

[KoE]

this was the sorry state of the OoooFour that was left picking up dust for almost 2 years :rolleyes:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v236/K-o-E/TA04/th_TA04-KoE.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v236/K-o-E/TA04/TA04-KoE.jpg)

until TCS officially came to Malaysia. More $$$ ploughed in and it looked like this on raceday :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v236/K-o-E/TA04/th_TCS1Utamareduced.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v236/K-o-E/TA04/TCS1Utamareduced.jpg)

Result was a different matter LOL! :p

[minijosh]

Lets see photos of the broken bits KoE.

[KoE]

it's one hardy car dude! i've changed many parts not because they were broken but i got bored looking at old parts LOL .... the only thing that "broke" was a 2-day old IB3800 handout pack that blew during charging

[CandyRedTC4]

HI im buying a used TA04-R tomorrow and I was just wondering since I already have the IB 3800 promatch batteries, will this type of battery fit this certain chassis? I remember seeing my friends base model TA04 he had to modify the chassis to fit the 3300 batteries.

Btw, the batts. are not stick pack or saddle pack its the one I use to use for my FT TC4. I forgot what its called.

[TEM]

HI im buying a used TA04-R tomorrow and I was just wondering since I already have the IB 3800 promatch batteries, will this type of battery fit this certain chassis? I remember seeing my friends base model TA04 he had to modify the chassis to fit the 3300 batteries.

Btw, the batts. are not stick pack or saddle pack its the one I use to use for my FT TC4. I forgot what its called.

Buying a used TA04-R tomorrow?, have you considered the one I have for sale? www.enbid.com/david/ta04r.zip is a video of it!.. Selling cheap too!...PM me if you are intested!

[KoE]

HI im buying a used TA04-R tomorrow and I was just wondering since I already have the IB 3800 promatch batteries, will this type of battery fit this certain chassis? I remember seeing my friends base model TA04 he had to modify the chassis to fit the 3300 batteries.

Btw, the batts. are not stick pack or saddle pack its the one I use to use for my FT TC4. I forgot what its called.

I removed the stickpack holder and used tape to accomodate the side-by-side batt. pack. Now back to stickpack holder for local TCS.

TEM,
can i soak my rubber sealed bearings in thinner? i need to remove the grease from the tamiya blue-sealed and hate to ruin them

[TEM]

Not sure what kind of thinner you intend on using but some thinners tend to dry out rubber.

Find a film container or paint jar (something with a lid that keeps contents from evaporating), put the bearings in and drown them with dechlorinated brake cleaner. Let it soak in, shake it around, etc. Fish them out, blast with fresh brake cleaner or compressed air. Put in a few drops of your favorite high speed bearing oil! Brake cleaner evaporates pretty quickly so don't do this indoors.

For wheel bearings you can take off the shields that faces towards each other; towards the inside of the hub carriers. Makes the bearings easier to clean and less resistance to drive train. Pay very close attention to the wheel bearings too!, I find they can damage easily if you take a hit in the wrong direction.

[KREATOR1]

I removed the stickpack holder and used tape to accomodate the side-by-side batt. pack. Now back to stickpack holder for local TCS.


dude,
Good luck for the next round with head to toe bling bling factor.

[KoE]

a tad bit too late! man...not many rounds left and i was only beginning to learn the setup

[rz_xternal]

Fast question, if anyone reads this forum often enough... I'm looking at a TA04SS (I think the SS model because it comes with 2 Audi TT-R bodies) with a mechanical speed control, a tamiya 11t motor, aluminum heatsink/motor mount and a swaybar, lightly used, with radio/batteries/charger etc. i.e. a fully built RTR kit, for around $150.. Is this a good deal? How does the MSC even work with an 11t motor? Thought I read somewhere that they only went down to 23 turns..

This is assuming I don't have an ESC good enough to replace the MSC, and my other options are brand new non-rtr kits of just about any other Tamiya chassis in the same pricerange..

[minijosh]

Yeah that's a good deal. The msc will work but it will overheat because of the draw of the motor.

[minijosh]

I just bought florine coated steering posts and some ball diff for my car. Gonna sell of the losi and race the Tamiya again. Talk about going back to my roots.

[KoE]

lol joshy boy....that was long overdue

[TA04 2NV]

Hey, I'm just wondering how many of you TA04 owners own the Blue Steering Arms? I don't see them much around but I'd like to get a set :D They're discontinued i know.

-Jimmy.

[minijosh]

I don't own them but I've seen them on ebay.

[minijosh]

Anyone running high mod motors or brushless in their ta04?

[minijosh]

I just picked up the blue heat sink and the blue steering hop up set. They look awesome next to my blue trf shocks.

[KoE]

braaaagggg :p :p :D

[TA04 2NV]

I just picked up the blue heat sink and the blue steering hop up set. They look awesome next to my blue trf shocks.
Where did you manage to find the blue steering arms? How much? Thanks.

I have a question also. Does everyone know the Blue universal shafts for the TA04 that come on the TRF already? I have them and they are exactly the same as the front, only the fron are steel. And i can only manage to find REAR Blue Universal Shafts. I was wondering if there WAS a difference because i want the blue in the front too (one was broken when i bought it so i need to buy some anyway lol)

Is it because Steel is stronger than aluminium and the steel is need more at the front because it it under more force etc? I'm not sure but i am hoping this forum can help me. I really want them and i really really really want the blue steering arms. Thank you again.

-Jimmy.

[minijosh]

I found them on ebay and I paid a bit for them £19.99. I also got the blue alloy servo light weight mounts. They look weird because they are super thin. My esc and C027 are blue so they look awesome. When I'm done my car is going to be rolling ice. Blue Universals? Now that is trick. I'll start looking for some now.

[minijosh]

OH I also found the steering posts in blue. Are those hard to find also? I don't think I'll get them since I have the florine coated ones.

[KoE]

Where did you manage to find the blue steering arms? How much? Thanks.

I have a question also. Does everyone know the Blue universal shafts for the TA04 that come on the TRF already? I have them and they are exactly the same as the front, only the fron are steel. And i can only manage to find REAR Blue Universal Shafts. I was wondering if there WAS a difference because i want the blue in the front too (one was broken when i bought it so i need to buy some anyway lol)

Is it because Steel is stronger than aluminium and the steel is need more at the front because it it under more force etc? I'm not sure but i am hoping this forum can help me. I really want them and i really really really want the blue steering arms. Thank you again.

-Jimmy.

Jimmy, your last paragraph is very correct. Unless we can get away in races without bumping into anything steel is a better option. Blue does look good ehh?

I'm trying to pry those things away from josh but he won't even let me know where he bought those from.

[TA04 2NV]

Thanks for your advice guys, i might just go the steel ones. Josh, i think the steering posts are rare, I'm not sure but i already have them on my TRF they come standard. But pitty it only comes with plastic steering arms.

-Jimmy.

[Interceptor]

Without having to read through 47 pages right now, can anyone suggest a good carpet set up? I'm also looking at ordering some threaded dampers, and a light weight carbon chassis and carbon fiber upper deck. Probably need springs and swy bars to. This will be raced in stock class on a carpet track. Thanks!

[Needler56]

what's the difference between these shocks?

[Interceptor]

The color I think. The special ones are blue.

[TEM]

Without having to read through 47 pages right now, can anyone suggest a good carpet set up? I'm also looking at ordering some threaded dampers, and a light weight carbon chassis and carbon fiber upper deck. Probably need springs and swy bars to. This will be raced in stock class on a carpet track. Thanks!

What tires? oneway(s) or diffs?, track layout?

[RoadrashAZ]

what's the difference between these shocks?
The shocks are exactly the same except for the blue finish. I have the gunmetal versions myself and they work very nicely. :)

[Needler56]

The shocks are exactly the same except for the blue finish. I have the gunmetal versions myself and they work very nicely. :)

would they fit on my ta02? they look similar to the stock shocks i have right now

[Interceptor]

What tires? oneway(s) or diffs?, track layout?

Rubber tires for now, unknown Tamiya rubbers. Diffs, carpet track in a church building, unknown layout. Just need a good basic set up to start with.

As soon as the parts get here, It will have upper and lower carbon fiber chassis plates, shock mounts F and R, and TRF threaded shocks, and a motor mount heat sink. Will be raced in Stock class. I have a full set of Springs and a full set of sway bars on the way as well.

[RoadrashAZ]

would they fit on my ta02? they look similar to the stock shocks i have right nowI imagine they would fit a TA02 since many of the Tamiya parts are interchangeable.

[TEM]

Rubber tires for now, unknown Tamiya rubbers. Diffs, carpet track in a church building, unknown layout. Just need a good basic set up to start with.

As soon as the parts get here, It will have upper and lower carbon fiber chassis plates, shock mounts F and R, and TRF threaded shocks, and a motor mount heat sink. Will be raced in Stock class. I have a full set of Springs and a full set of sway bars on the way as well.

Build the car to R specs and you'd be surprised how well it actually works with rubber tires. That is; yellow springs, swaybars front and rear, 50wt oil all around in TRF shocks. -1 degree camber all around. 2 degree rear toe in, no front toe. 5mm ride height front and rear, 4mm droop. Ball diffs, set the front one a tad tighter than the rear. Shock mounts inner holes on top, outer holes on arms, rear camber links on outer/lower holes on the hub side. I can't remember which way the inner camber links go but it was the holes in the manual. The slotted carbon tub is better than the non-slotted CF chassis. Anyways, with that setup, the car handles very neutral and drives easily with no bad habits. Start with that and make small changes to suit your style and track condition and layout.

[XXWoodmanXX]

Hey, all.


Got back into TA04 chassis once again. Just sold my Vette, and now have a stock chassis w/ a Vauxhall racing body, and looking for all sortrs of hop-ups (except bearings LOL)

Lemme know if ya got anything. Thanks!!

[minijosh]

I have a blue alloy heat sink/motor mount for $20 shipped if you want it.

[KoE]

me want !!!!

[microrcdude]

KoE! where you been man?

[TA04 2NV]

The shocks are exactly the same except for the blue finish. I have the gunmetal versions myself and they work very nicely. :)

These shocks are not exactly the same.

These are the Tamiya TRF Fluorine Coated Shocks

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/7250/trfdamperfluorinecoatedlp7.jpg

These are the Tamiya TRF BLUE Fluorine Coated Shocks which are now discontinued.

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/8233/trfdamperbluecoatedqb5.jpg

These are the Tamiya TRF Special Blue Dampers which have only PLASTIC retainers.

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/5752/trfspecialbluedamperuh1.jpg


-Jimmy.

[KoE]

KoE! where you been man?

almost 2 months long holidays dude :D ..and a lil prep for our nat. Retiring my 04 so thought that blue stuff might fit in well for her retirement package :)

[TEM]

Round 1 in Canadian TCS 2007 series. TA04-R got the TQ in GT2 and finished 3rd in the main! :teacher:

[RoadrashAZ]

Congrats man! I still run my TA-04 but I don't race it, although I have plenty of spare parts if I ever wanted to.

[geist_darkblade]

I have a TA04ss. I have a question are the hardened ss arms better than the stock ss arms? Also dose the lightened tub chassis make a difference on how the car peforms? right now i have the ssg shock towers and upper chassis, the gunmetal trf shocks the flouretine steering shafts, front one way, ball diff with lightweight outdrives and the aluminum steering set.

[Vato Loco]

I'm not new to R/C......It's going to be my 40th birftday on the 7th :roll2: , so My wife order me this for me!
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=58272
So I plan not race just bash, and naturaly I had to order a few things :D so I got a this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLXT7&P=ML and another radio...........I looked at all the hop up for this car............What to go for first, what wares out/ breaks the most easy? also what gearing should I start out with? I learn the most from pic's, can you guys post some pic's of your stock and mod out cars. Who know's some lexan parts I may have to make ;) For those who know me...... :D Thanks :wave: Vato

[Prelude14WRX]

My little brother(12) just ordered that same car too. Should be a great car for him in stock rubber and for TCS.

[RoadrashAZ]

I liked the TA04 Corvette so much that I bought two of them! The Corvette body is too nice to run though, I have mine in plastic. I'm sure you guys will be addicted to buying hop-ups for yours as I was.

[Vato Loco]

I like the scale looks of the whole car, the rear tires could be wider though. I'm new to on road stuff , but not to off road. What width tires are out there for this chassis. I want a scale 12" wide tires up front and 16" in the rear. What tire/rim combo's are out there for this chassis? What size hex does this car have?

[Prelude14WRX]

I liked the TA04 Corvette so much that I bought two of them! The Corvette body is too nice to run though, I have mine in plastic. I'm sure you guys will be addicted to buying hop-ups for yours as I was.

It is a very awesome body, but he will be running it in stock rubber :p

[Vato Loco]

Here's Pic's and vid of the car!
It's powered by a reedy Quad Mag spec 19T motor and old GP 3300 batts.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqatgJKPNQI

[nick f]

I'm just bashing in front of my house in the street and maybe a parking lot here and there. Tamiya has the Porsche TB02 for $125 and the C5R Ta40s for $100. Which one, and why? Does the belt in the ta40s get chewed up that easily with the small rocks?

[Vato Loco]

I'm just bashing in front of my house in the street and maybe a parking lot here and there. Tamiya has the Porsche TB02 for $125 and the C5R Ta40s for $100. Which one, and why? Does the belt in the ta40s get chewed up that easily with the small rocks?
I like my TA04, I just got done with the lights' I plan on a nite vid soon! the belt only got chewed once on me I plan to cut a hole under the diff to let any loose debis out, other than that a great little car!

[KoE]

I'm just bashing in front of my house in the street and maybe a parking lot here and there. Tamiya has the Porsche TB02 for $125 and the C5R Ta40s for $100. Which one, and why? Does the belt in the ta40s get chewed up that easily with the small rocks?

all TA04 rear gear holder is almost enclosed ... making it perfect for grinding belt should a pebble makes way in. A friend removed the rear portion of the casing so that pebbles get spit out at the rear...but that made the casing weaker.

[nick f]

Ok, I have a new TA04S geared right now with a stock silver can 540, 25/83 (0.6 module). I have a Tamiya RZ motor 23 turn to put in it. The box on the motor calls my car out specifically for a 45/112 combo (0.4 module).

Well

25/83 = 0.301 ratio
45/112 = 0.4017 ratio

Internal gear boxes and pulleys remain the same for a ratio of around 2.2

If I use the 25t pinion on the RZ motor am I over geared or under geared? I'm used to the 2 less teeth rule for pinions.

Please help this on road stuff is new to me. I dont want to burn the motor out due to improper gearing.

Thanks
Nick F

[KoE]

Ok, I have a new TA04S geared right now with a stock silver can 540, 25/83 (0.6 module). I have a Tamiya RZ motor 23 turn to put in it. The box on the motor calls my car out specifically for a 45/112 combo (0.4 module).

Well

25/83 = 0.301 ratio
45/112 = 0.4017 ratio

Internal gear boxes and pulleys remain the same for a ratio of around 2.2

If I use the 25t pinion on the RZ motor am I over geared or under geared? I'm used to the 2 less teeth rule for pinions.

Please help this on road stuff is new to me. I dont want to burn the motor out due to improper gearing.

Thanks
Nick F

83/25 is too low imo; u'll end up with a final drive ratio of something like 7+. That motor will drag itself. Stick with the recommended range.

[oldpj]

Ok, I have a new TA04S geared right now with a stock silver can 540, 25/83 (0.6 module). I have a Tamiya RZ motor 23 turn to put in it. The box on the motor calls my car out specifically for a 45/112 combo (0.4 module).

Well

25/83 = 0.301 ratio
45/112 = 0.4017 ratio

Internal gear boxes and pulleys remain the same for a ratio of around 2.2

If I use the 25t pinion on the RZ motor am I over geared or under geared? I'm used to the 2 less teeth rule for pinions.

Please help this on road stuff is new to me. I dont want to burn the motor out due to improper gearing.

Thanks
Nick F

Here is the TA04-R gearing chart. My TA04-R Tuned chassis kit had the Type R motor - forerunner of the RZ.

HTH

[quick5pnt0]

Here is the TA04-R gearing chart. My TA04-R Tuned chassis kit had the Type R motor - forerunner of the RZ.

HTH

The TA04S comes with 0.6 module gears, the R comes with 0.4 module gears.

Not really sure why Tamiya decided to go this route because it's next to impossible to find 06 module pinion gears. Heck I even contacted Robinson, but they only sell them up to 24 teeth (and I need more than the stock 25)

[KoE]

ditch tamiya gear modules and stick with the conventional ones which are much easier to find

[nick f]

And what spur do I use?? Who make this?? I assume you would use something like RR pinions?

[quick5pnt0]

And what spur do I use?? Who make this?? I assume you would use something like RR pinions?

I was about to ask the same thing. I know Robinson makes various spur gears, but can anyone recommend a specific part number?

[RoadrashAZ]

If you get the TA04 Aluminium Hub Set For Spur Gear (part #53452) you can use any standard spur gear that has the two bolt pattern. I use the Robinson Racing Stealth Pro spur gears (48 pitch) so gearing is almost limitless!

You could also use 64 pitch spurs but they are not as durable as 48 pitch.

[Lew]

Hi. First time on here and want to show my TA-04.
It started as a ss and now has

Carbon upper and lower decks
Carbon front and rear damper stays
Blue adjustable shocks
Blue universal rear drive shafts
Front and rear stabilizers (blue/hard)
04 module gears
Blue racing spur gear hub (2 hole version)
Mtroniks viper 11
Reedy 13T
Cooling fan with home made guard
Racing body mounts
Home made stone guard under rear belt (i used to find stones getting stuck in rear diff)

Other photos here
http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e290/05savage/
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e290/05savage/22072007161.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e290/05savage/22072007167.jpg

[Big House]

Here is a shot of my now 7700 MM powered TA-04R. I am going to pick up a full set of foams to see if I can keep it on the ground. Even with 6 cells this thing is ballistic.

[Fatmandan]

well i seen the corvette kit for 100 bucks and im thinking of getting it im going to be racing it i couldnt read throught everything on here but would it make a decent racer?

[cheerwhiner]

If racing other TA04 cars yes, against other makes probably not. Its a fun car, for the money a good buy, but I think a Hot Bodies Cyclone S would be better if looking to stay well under $200 for a kit to race.

I have the Corvette kit, put a bunch of money into it to race, and just a tc4 instead. The problem with racing it was more so if I broke a part, nobody had the same chassis so I was not in good shape for the day. You pretty much have to run a more common car to get parts easier- ta04 being discontinued, I would advise getting a TA05 instead

[Big House]

The S kit maybe, but the R is a full on racer. From what I have see in TA-05's, my 04 would hold its own.

[cheerwhiner]

somehow my belt flipped upside down inside the car...........!!?? Not entirely half the belt belt was upside down after 2 packs on the parking lot.... strange.

[Big House]

Happened to me once. Question for you...how are you geared. I am running the stock .04 pinion but I am running the 112 spur gear.

[cheerwhiner]

48pitch now so i don't know if that had anything to do with it, i do have a one way up front, that could be related since a few times i did brake hard and of course that spins the car around with a oneway up front

[Big House]

I am running the alum. diff pulleys in the front and rears. When I had my Mamba in, I destroyed the plastic ones. I will be putting in 17 turn for the mean time until I get a better 12 turn for it.

[raman]

I need a little help guys. I have TA04TRF. I sold my brush set up and went with a Novak GTB 3.5 system. Talked to Novak about gearing with LiPo and they told me I should shoot for an FDR of 9.5 to 10.5, which would make it 128T Spur and 27T Pinion. I found a 27T .4 pitch from Tamiya, but the mount holes will not allow the gear to mesh up.. unless I grind the hole.

Is there anyone out there that still drives a TA04? Or have you all defected to TA05 and TRF416.

[KoE]

...Or have you all defected to TA05 and TRF416.

LOL... yeaa...i'm guilty of that sir! But i do keep my KoE special edition 04 as shelf queen.

looks like ya in for some dremel time, but as consolation...04 is the easiest when it comes to changing the spur; just 2 screws needed.

[bathgate97]

I am just restoring an old ta04 for my friend at my club, and its been a really good project up to now. I decided to change it to 48dp, but now I'm stuck. Do I really have to use a spur the size of a truck tyre, and a mid range pinion just so they reach each other, or am I missing something? I have just run her on the yard and she needed about half an hour to get up to speed. thanks for your help chaps

[KoE]

do you have access to TA04 gear chart?

[winning edge designs]

Here is a pic of a MAzda 6 190mm just finished up to add to the thread, :).

http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/3025/wed10109005rs9.jpg
http://img387.imageshack.us/img387/7182/wed10109003zy1.jpg

...Jim
W.E.D.

[KoE]

nice work as always aa Jim :-)

[Keefe]

Used about three race days, maybe ten runs total. In great shape. With basic electronics (Novak Explorer II )or bare, your choice. Email me if interested: rkeefe at apple dot com. Thanks!

[TRF Drive Hard]

Used about three race days, maybe ten runs total. In great shape. With basic electronics (Novak Explorer II )or bare, your choice. Email me if interested: rkeefe at apple dot com. Thanks!

1st Warning, post all WTS items in the appropriate section... like the Buy/Sell section, hello!?!?!:rolleyes:

[ktm]

this is my ta-04 pro, with a lot of optionals...

with a xerun 120A V2 esc, and a feigao 10.5T brushless motor.

the battery compartment seems made for the lipo (like trakpower), and the model is well balanced. it performs well in the track.:):):)

http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/2126/dsc7155.jpg

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/2860/dsc7154.jpg

http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/1338/dsc7153g.jpg

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/5365/dsc0047e.jpg

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/1686/dsc0044u.jpg

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/9003/dsc0046u.jpg

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/2848/dsc0045n.jpg

[Tamiya-TRF]

Hello everyone :)
i just joined now...:)

Well i want to know the exact difference between the TA04-TRF and the TA04-R Tuned Chassis kit in terms of everything. :)

Also, any one has a scanned TA04-R Tuned Chassis kit Manual? i would be appreciated.

hanks and i am sure i will enjoy the stay here :)

Regards