HPI Micro RS-4 Forum v3.0

[associatedguy08]

any one know where I could get the 540 conversion? a link would be gladly appreciated. thanks.

[aktiondan]

www.aktionrc.com

We're all sold out at the moment, and don't have any plans to run more for now (but maybe this summer). Stay tuned on our site for details. You can still buy just a 540 motor plate which you can retrofit onto any chassis. It takes some work, but you can still get a taste of 540 speed without the full chassis conversion.

Dan

[microrcdude]

What wheels are those on your 540 micro, aktiondan??

[theskunk]

hey, any of you guys have a stock micro RS4 motor you'd be willing to sell cheap? i know lots of people have them just sitting around from modifying theirs, but i need one for stock class for my xray m-18, email me some prices of how much you'd like paypalled to you. my email is rw53493@appstate.edu.
thanks,
-Rob

[Slow Driver]

Okay so I bought all my kids a Micro and also a 5 cell batttery pack. So how do I hang the battery pack in the standard Micro chassis so it does not rub the belt??

[BobT]

Originally posted by Slow Driver
Okay so I bought all my kids a Micro and also a 5 cell batttery pack. So how do I hang the battery pack in the standard Micro chassis so it does not rub the belt??

Look for part#73409. You strap your batt pack to it with tape then hang it like the stock battery holder.

If you want to permanently mount the pack put 2 or 3 layers of servo tape unter the pack and attach to the bottom chassis. The extra layers of tape should keep the pack high enough to clear the belt.

In either case try to ballance the weight of the pack between the left and right side as best you can. This will help your handling.

[orbitron]

Hey all. I'm curious what you think would be the best pinion to run if I have giant electronics, stock motor, and 5 cells.

I mostly just bash but occasionally I go to the little track in town here. I don't have any clue what run time I'll get with the pinions and my new 1100mAh 2/3 cells.
Here's a pic for you.

[microrcdude]

what body do you use?

[InspGadgt]

Michael over at Motek pointed these guys out to me today in e-mail as they have a new front ball diff that we are hoping is better then the GH one. Thought you guys might want to take a look. they have some really cool looking rims with width spacers that have aluminum brake discs on them....very nice looking.

http://www.avmracing.com/

[orbitron]

Originally posted by microrcdude
what body do you use?

Generally I use my 350z but I jut got a NSX what difference will that make?

[microrcdude]

the NSX will handle better.

[orbitron]

Ok thats cool but what I meant was why would it matter for what pinion I use?
**edit** oops, were you even talking to me?

[Turbo Tin Can]

Rs4 3 SS have a lsd diff in the frotn right? Well i have 2 rs4 3's and im wondering if I can add my other slip diff to the rear? What would be the benifit, keep in mind its now a rally car conversion.

[Got Speed]

Turbo Tin Can- This is the Micro RS4 forum. Not the RS4 forum.

It's been a while since I've run my micro or been on this thread.

Anyway, my rear bulkhead has stripped holes where the motor mount goes. I'm was thinking about getting an alum. but that is a lot of weight for something this small. What would be a better idea. The alum. one or just stick to the plastic? I also keep breaking my front universals. Which would be better steel or alum.?

Thanks

[microrcdude]

I'd go with steel universals.aluminum ones will get bent easy.
I would also stick with the stock rear bulkhead. If you need some traction in the rear, go for it.

[TA04PRO]

Hey guys
I am new to the micro craze
I will buy a rtr hpi micro rs4 and i need some help.
First of all, what chargers can charge the micro batteries?
I have a Pro Max Black Widow Pro.
Second, do micro battery packs come with an extra adapter for charging?
Are the AA alkaline rechargeables any good?
Is the Novak Spy any good?
Will the Novak Spy handle the team Orion elite motor?

thanks

[BobT]

Originally posted by TA04PRO
Hey guys
I am new to the micro craze
I will buy a rtr hpi micro rs4 and i need some help.
First of all, what chargers can charge the micro batteries?
I have a Pro Max Black Widow Pro.
Second, do micro battery packs come with an extra adapter for charging?
Are the AA alkaline rechargeables any good?
Is the Novak Spy any good?
Will the Novak Spy handle the team Orion elite motor?

thanks

First of all, what chargers can charge the micro batteries?

Any charger that can safely charge 4 to 6 NiMH cells at low amperage rates (.5 to 1 amp).
Two of my favorite chargers for this are:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=&I=LXCLD5
Duratrax Piranha AC/DC Digital Peak charger and the Hobico Field Charger MKII
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTZ5&P=7

I believe an adaptor comes with the Micro RS4 but I'm not positive.

Alkaline rechargables are NOT worth it. If you want to use AA rechargebles get the 15 minute rechargables and its charger at Walmart. For around $40 you can have 4 2100Mah cells and a charger that gets them charged in 15 minutes. Not a bad deal. I've used the AAA cells in my Mini Z and they are punchy (that's good).

The Spy will handle any mod or big block motor that NORMALLY fits in the Micro. The ESC that comes with the RTR is fine for stock and mild mods.

If you will be racing your Micro leave it stock until you find out what mods your track allows. If they have a mod class make sure there are plenty of people running mod before you spend a lot of money on things you can't run in the stock class.

Hope you have a race program in your area that supports the Micro RS4. Racing raises the fun you have with these cars to a factor of 10.
:D

[microrcdude]

my dad is a proud owner of a micro!!!

[GT Freak]

im a proud owner of a micro,also, just got mine a week ago. it a blast to run in the house. will get pics asap :)

[microrcdude]

i gave my dad mine. I am having a hard time trying to get 3 cars running, so i'll stick with 2.

[yeeehaw]

I decided to get back into sport flying.
so I sold it
all of it even my losi xxx-s
I am thinking it was a bad I dea
but I am going to get the delta vortex and go have fun bombing the neighbor girl.

but in the mean time

Hasta luego mi amigos y amigas.
Buenos suerte

Mateo

[offroader]

I just picked up a used micro and it is the kit with the Mustang body...I believe it is set up as a 140mm car. My question is, how hard is it and what do I need to change it to a 150mm car? I have a couple of 150mm car bodies that I'd like to run.

Any help would be great!

Thanks

[yeeehaw]

just just get the 150mm belt and a body that will fit
matt

[BobT]

It requires the longer belt (Part# 72316) and repositioning of the rear motor/suspsension pod. It takes about 5 minutes.

HPI has all their kit instructions on their web site. Check out http://www.hpiracing.com/instructions/instruct-micro.htm
for the Micro RS4 instructions.

[offroader]

Thanks for the info! :D

[TA04PRO]

Hey
I got my Hpi Micro RS4 and i need some help.
I have the rtr micro and when i play it, the steering always goes to the left a little whenever I turn it on.
I dont know why its doing that.
I adjusted the trim and it still does that.
Can u please help me fix my problem?
Thanks

[BobT]

Adjusting the trim should take care of it.

Go to their web site (http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm) and look in "Contact HPI". They should be able to help you.

[davespencer]

hey i need to get a battery,transmitter/receiver and a esc what is the best esc's out their and where is the cheepest place to get it
I want to run 5-6 ell packs and i already have the big block moter instaled with hitec micro servo kit so im anxious to run what should be a pretty good set up. Any outher set up help you guys could give me would be great.



Dave

[TA04PRO]

I did adjust my trim
It went all the way to left and thats the best it can do.
If I adjust the trim all the way to the right,it'll make the steering all the way to the left.
Plz help me

[BobT]

Originally posted by TA04PRO
I did adjust my trim
It went all the way to left and thats the best it can do.
If I adjust the trim all the way to the right,it'll make the steering all the way to the left.
Plz help me

It sound like your servo is either not seeing a signal (white wire) or there is no signal coming from the radio.

If you were in my shop or on the phone with me I would ask you a few questions to better isolate and trouble-shoot your problem.

Some of the things I ask or tell you to do may seem stupid or tick you off. Sorry but eight years of trouble-shooting over the Internet and telephone have taught me to never take anything for granite.

1 - Are you turning on your transmitter first?

2- Do you get any response from the steering servo at all? Turn the steering wheel on the radio in both directions. Is there any movement of the car wheels? Do this with both the car and transmitter on.

3- When the transmitter and car are turned on do you have control of the ESC? In other words can you make the motor run with the throttle trigger of the radio?

If you don't have any control of the car the first thing to check are the freq crystals. Either the TX or RX (transmitter or receiver) may be bad. If you have a buddy with the same type radio (27mhz AM) and his stuff works ok ask to borrow his crystals to test your car.

If you have control of the ESC but not the servo the problem probably lies in your servo.

If you don't know what I am talking about don't feel bad many people don't, including my wife. LOL! Have your LHS help you out. But do these tests first so you can help them help you.

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by TA04PRO
I did adjust my trim
It went all the way to left and thats the best it can do.
If I adjust the trim all the way to the right,it'll make the steering all the way to the left.
Plz help me

Did you center the servo before you put the servo saver or servo horn on? It sounds like you might not have.

[BobT]

Sounds like he's turning the car on first then the radio or there is no centering signal to the servo. The servo is only seeing power and therefore the motor moves to the full left and stops.

Three places the signal can get lost:

Transmitter
Receiver
Servo

Just trying to narrow it down for him.

Your suspicion is just as valid as mine. Until he does a little testing and gives us more to go on there is no way to tell.

Its kinda' like doin' brain surgery over the phone. :D :eek:
:confused: :(

[InspGadgt]

Even if he turns the car on first the servo will center once the radio is turned on.

[TA04PRO]

How do I center the servo?
I haven't been able to take apart the car yet.
Also I turn on my radio first and then the car.
It's still happening.
Plz help me.

[BobT]

Sorry can't help you if won't help a little.

If you read my post you know that there are at least three things that could need repair or replacement. Without you trouble shooting the problem a little more using the methods I explained there is nothing more we can do.

If you don't want to learn how to trouble shoot and maintain your RC car you may want to go back to your Pokiman cards.

You don't want to contact HPI. You don't want to try a few things and give us the results. You have not contacted the hobby shop. No. You want us to use our super natural powers, wave our magic wands and fix your car. Sorry it won't reach that far. :( :rolleyes:

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by TA04PRO
How do I center the servo?
I haven't been able to take apart the car yet.
Also I turn on my radio first and then the car.
It's still happening.
Plz help me.

To center the servo properly do the following:

1) Take the servo saver or servo horn off of the servo.
2) Center the trim on the radio.
3) Turn on the radio then the car. The servo will move to it's natural center.
4) With the car and radio still on put the servo saver or servo horn back on the servo as close to center as the splines will allow.
5) Now you use the trim knob to get the car to track straight.

[NitroMan15]

Today at work one of the guys that I work with got his big block motor and we installed it and noticed that it hit the rear axle housing. We had to use a 13t pinion and sand part of the rear axle housing to get it to fit and take out the rear shock. I was wandering if anyone else had this problem and if some of you could post some pics of it installed and also what are the two spacers and longer screws for?

[RandyT]

If I remember properly, you have to raise the rear axle with the spacers and use the longer screws. With the B.B. you can't use the rear shock unless you get a different rear deck or do some modifying. Sorry it's been a while since I did that mod, and have since went back to stock. Too much uncontrolable power with eight cells, not alot of fun, very fast and very damaging on the car. Good luck.

[agricus]

new to the Micro RS4, I got a P3500lm chassis. I am trying to figure out what is the best way to mount the batteries. I have the side plates for mounting on the side and i can also mount in the middle.

I had a HPI Pro 3 and if i understand correctly one would try to put all the weight in the centerline instead of side to minumize the force needed to roll the chassis

what is your opions on the physics of battery mounting?

[tl01_staniland]

will this charger charge micro batterys?

[BobT]

If you are using individual AA or AAA cells yes it will work.

However if it takes several hours to charge them you will need enough cells to get you through a race day (if you race). If you don't race its nothing to worry about. Just charge what you want to play with the night before.

If you are running a stock 4-cell config you will get 30 to 40 minutes of runtime per set.

I have a similar charger and use it the night before to charge each cell individually. Thats the best way to charge any cell but is not always practical with cells build into packs.

At the track I charge and or recharge the loose cells 4 at a time in a battery holder using a fast peak charger set at 1.25 amp.

[tl01_staniland]

i just saved enough to buy a micro rs4... so i will have a long time to build it... (time to save up for electronics... unless they are suppplied in the kit...) i will take my time .... taking tips from you guys on how to make it a beast....

thanks

ash

[BobT]

The car can be built fully stock using nothing but the parts in the kit and it will run and handle great. Take your time. Read the instructions several times before begining.

It takes an hour or less to actually build the chassis so don't rush it.

When you begin construction have all the tools you will need handy. A good sharp exacto knife and very fine sandpaper to remove the excess plastic flash from parts will insure a smooth running car. Do your best impersonation of a watch-maker. Make each part perfect before you put them together.

Once you have your electronics the chassis will be ready and done right. ;)

[microrcdude]

We built my friends micro in an hour. I think it's best if you take your time so you eliminate mistakes. Having the right tools is very important.

[GT Freak]

my micro is fun to run in the house, doesnt mattter which body i use (since there all stangs), now this is the best idea out for indoor winter fun! now i just gotta get the X-ray ( i think), should i, or stick with the rs4 :confused:

[BobT]

Originally posted by GT Freak
my micro is fun to run in the house, doesnt mattter which body i use (since there all stangs), now this is the best idea out for indoor winter fun! now i just gotta get the X-ray ( i think), should i, or stick with the rs4 :confused:

If you are just bashing into the furniture at home keep the RS4. If you plan to race the Xray looks to be a better choice than the HPI. However I have added an ARM chassis to my HPI and it realy helped the handling on Ozite. Too bad we don't have a race program that supports the Micro. Everyone wants to race 1/12th scale around here. If they just knew how durable and fun the Micros are they would change thier minds.

My buddy has an awesome Mini Z track and we play there for hours. We have a bunch of people with Xmods in the area who have expressed interest in the track. Hopefully they will show up Sunday.

My Xmod ran great with stiff springs, stock tires and bearings.


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid103/p04d67fb827d5c9aeec662628496851e3/f9ab21d0.jpg

[orbitron]

That's what a track should look like. Not just ozite and pvc!!

[GT Freak]

(bows down) the almighty micro track maker has arrived!



ID LOVE to race/practice drifting on that track!

[BobT]

Originally posted by GT Freak
(bows down) the almighty micro track maker has arrived!



ID LOVE to race/practice drifting on that track!

Actually by buddy Jeff Woeber built that beuty. I would not have the patients to pull off a project like that.

I also don't have that kind of space in my basement. :D

My foam track is a little more subdued. :rolleyes:

[microrcdude]

^^^^better than what we got!!!

[tl01_staniland]

:D :D :D

i got the BMW and some gold paint ....
i cant wait to have this thing fully runningwith the bling bling gold bodyshell on... LOL :p

thanks

[Interstate]

Hey guys

I just put a micro kit on order at my lhs and should be in within a week or so. I know how to build kits, and I know most about the different parts of RC. But the only problem is, I'm used to nitro engines, and for the life of me just can't remember all the electronics stuff.

But I figured I would do fine with the micro since I could use AA or AAA's. (I don't have a charger, never used one.) I think I'll stick with the alkalines untill I have enough cash for other electronics. But with that in mind, I won't be doing any sancioned racing.

What (if anything) should be modified right out of the box? I was looking at some high grip tires, different shocks, different motor, pinions, the bump steer kit from HPI, and MAYBE the orion graphite chassis'. What do you guys think?

What motor would be a good replacement? I saw HPI's, megatech, and orions BB. Would a brushless setup be a good idea?

Thanks in advance.

[GT Freak]

id run it bone stock till i got used to it, then add one hop up at a time! :) that way u dont get bored with it quickly! ive seen alot of people do that, buy a car, hop it up INSTANTLY ,then get bored and sell it! thats no fun!

[davespencer]

Sorry for the boaring question but i was wondering what kind of batteries their are out their I know that some of the losi mini guys are running lithium batteries anyone know about them?
Also does anyone know where to get batteries. I can make my own packs so thats not a problem but i need to know where and hat kind of cells to get. Please help me!

[Interstate]

Originally posted by GT Freak
id run it bone stock till i got used to it, then add one hop up at a time! :) that way u dont get bored with it quickly! ive seen alot of people do that, buy a car, hop it up INSTANTLY ,then get bored and sell it! thats no fun!

That's what I really plan on doing (as I did on my super nitro RS4) But there are some kits out there that just need immediate up-grades.

But for future refrence, what are some good upgrades that are "must haves"?

[Kuya]

Originally posted by Interstate
That's what I really plan on doing (as I did on my super nitro RS4) But there are some kits out there that just need immediate up-grades.

But for future refrence, what are some good upgrades that are "must haves"?

if anything, a motor and steel pinion gear. the motor for the power and the steel pinion for insurance that the gear doesn't slip or wear out. Other than that nothing is really needed unless you plan on racing. If you do, then i suggest playing around with the car first before buying anything else. everything else (shocks, graphite chassis, tires, etc.) is a tweaker, they only work better in certain conditions. Don't buy everything cause you'll waste money on parts that make little to no difference in your car.

[Interstate]

What motor should I get? I saw the HPI modified 45T, megatech high-torque, megatech high-speed, a couple orion modified, and the orion big block.

Is brushless an option?

[Kuya]

Regarding the choice of motor, my only answer is "to each, his own." There is no definitive "best" motor for the micro. I myself have the HPI modified while my brother has the Orion Big Block. We tested our cars one on one on acceleration and top speed.
What we've found is that the HPI modified has better low speed accel and the Big Block has a higher top speed but slower accel.
It's all depends on what kind of track you're driving. Some people have posted their opinons on other motors but I've only tested 2.

[Interstate]

Now that I have this assembled, it's pretty darn heavy, and has a lot of chassis flex. Have I been spoiled with aluminum nitro chassis'? I'm thinking about the orion V-power chassis, or soething with carbon fiber as the chassis and upper deck, what do you guys reccommend?

I think I'm going to get The Futaba MC230CR ESC. How is it, and can it handle HPI's midified 45turn motor?

What do you think about Associated's Runner Plus ESC w/Reverse? It looks about the same with the futaba.

I got some pile lithium batteries from energizer. Non-rechargable, 1.5V. Can the ESC and radio equipment handle these?

[Kuya]

you shouldn't worry about chassis for now. The chassis only gives the car more rigidity which is only really necessary if you're a serious racer.

I don't know about the ESCs but the batteries shouldn't be a problem. as long as they're 1.5V, it should power the car as well as any run of the mill battery.

Just so you know, the Micro is a great car right out of the box. It really doesn't need any upgrades. the only upgrade that gives immediate results is the motor.

Everything else, and I mean everything, is just for a little extra handling which you'll never really notice since you've never driven your car stock. A lot of hop ups are useless but people buy them thinking it helps.
For example:
-Springs: No real difference unless you're studying your turning angles on different surfaces.
-Battery Packs: You don't get more juice/run time out them, it's just a bit lighter.
-Chassis: It only makes the car more rigid which really means nothing unless you've raced you car.
-Titanium Antenna: Gives you a lower center of gravity (less roll overs when you jack your car on asphalt) but the range is limited (almost anything electronic interferes, when my computer is on, it interferes when it's 5 feet away)
-Ball Diff: Gives you the ability to alter how much grip and slip in the rear tires, only helps if you know what you're doing.
-Front Diff: You get a little more grip in the front, but lose the front grip while in reverse.
-Dog Bones: Depends on how much abuse you give your car. Stock should be okay.
-Motor: More power, but you won't really see the difference unless you clock your times.
-Heatsink: Only helps if you run your car nonstop for a prolonged period (Gives you about 2-3 mins of more run time before it overheats)
-Tires: It depends on the surface you're driving. See what others are using on your track.

When I first got my micro, I kept it stock for a long time. When my brother finally got one, I started the hop ups to get mine faster than his. What I found is that the hops ups only help if you have the right ones for the situation. Also, the driver is a question too because I've beaten a few super hopped up micros with my almost stock car.

Know how your car works first, then upgrade and fix what is necessary, don't just upgrade what's upgradable.

[Interstate]

Alrigit, I see what you're saying.

I've come down to two ESC's. But because I'm normally a nitro guy, I don't know dooty about electronics.

I'll be using the pile lithiums, AM futaba radio, and the HPI 45T motor. Now which ESC:

Futaba MC230CR ESC w/Reverse (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUY13&P=K)

OR

Novak Spy Micro Reversible ESC (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNR7&P=K)

The futaba has less On resistance (what is this?), Higher frequency (what's this?) has heat sinks, and is smaller. But the Novak weighs less, can turn off reverse, and will be 100% plug n' play. HELP ME!!!

[tl01_staniland]

edit: delete

[offroader]

Hey everyone. I have recently picked up a micro for racing at our local micro track. I'm not very mechanically inclined...not at all actually...but I was wondering if someone could help me out in the way of what I need to do maintanence wise before (or after) a race day?

Races are once a week and we race pretty competitivly, there is usually 4 mains (A, B, C, D) with 5 or 6 racers in each class. I usually just miss out on making the "A" main (although I have made the "A" a couple of times) and almost always finish 1st or 2nd in the "B" main.

Most of the other guys spend all kinds of time working on their cars before and inbetween each heat, but I have no clue what I should be doing??

I think I'm a pretty decent driver and am wondering if the reason I'm not finding myself in the "A" main more often is because my car hasn't been maintained properly.

Can anyone help me out? Maybe there's a web site that goes into detail about what I should be doing...preferably WITH pictures?

Thanks in advance!

[Kuya]

Originally posted by Interstate
Alrigit, I see what you're saying.

I've come down to two ESC's. But because I'm normally a nitro guy, I don't know dooty about electronics.

I'll be using the pile lithiums, AM futaba radio, and the HPI 45T motor. Now which ESC:

Futaba MC230CR ESC w/Reverse (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUY13&P=K)

OR

Novak Spy Micro Reversible ESC (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCNR7&P=K)

The futaba has less On resistance (what is this?), Higher frequency (what's this?) has heat sinks, and is smaller. But the Novak weighs less, can turn off reverse, and will be 100% plug n' play. HELP ME!!!

For the Futaba, right off that bat, it's talking about 20+ turn motors, that's the 1/10 electrics. It MIGHT work but you'd need a battery pack to reach 6-7 volts.

The Novak Spy was the first 3rd party ESC for the micro. When the Micro kit first came out, this was the ESC to get and it's still one of the best out there.

[Kuya]

Originally posted by offroader
Hey everyone. I have recently picked up a micro for racing at our local micro track. I'm not very mechanically inclined...not at all actually...but I was wondering if someone could help me out in the way of what I need to do maintanence wise before (or after) a race day?
Most of the other guys spend all kinds of time working on their cars before and inbetween each heat, but I have no clue what I should be doing??
Can anyone help me out? Maybe there's a web site that goes into detail about what I should be doing...preferably WITH pictures?
Thanks in advance!

I'm not sure about a site, but what most people check on is just basic things. Before or in between heats, I take my car through the basic steps.

-Replace battery (fresh means fast)
-Check tires (Check the wear before and after the race, clean off any dirt before each race to ensure maximum grip)
-and make sure the tires are in snug (you don't want them popping out mid-race)
-Check the connections (you don't want anything coming loose)
-Check the rear axel & dogbones (if you got hair tangled in them, it can slow down / sway your car)
-*If you have a ball diff, check the setting (sometimes, it may come loose during a race and you may have to reset it)
-Check if screws are in tight (nothing loose)
-Check body for any major damage (a bent wing or a big bend in the body may not look that bad, but the aerodynamics will be off and it may hinder your performance)

you don't need to spend a lot of time working on your car, I sometimes don't even check my car, I usually just replace batteries, clean my tires and wait for the next race.

[offroader]

Ok, thanks. What about after race days...what should I be checking/doing before the next weeks races?

[Kuya]

There really is nothing to do, unless you're upgrading your car.
-Clean moving parts. (Springs, ball joints, dogbones, rear axle)
just keep it free from hair and dirt, greased up and ready.

You could always spend time to get to know your car.
Test the:
-braking distance
-acceleration
-top speed
-turning circle

Know your car inside out so you can alter your driving style when the time comes. Try to find a few racing lines that best suits your car. Bascally in a race, everyone follows the same line, but you should be ready for any situation. I usually study the track because since everyone takes the same line, all the accidents happen in the same space. You should know how your car handles enough so you could avoid the wreakage and still keep your speed.

[GT Freak]

well, after working on it, im almost finished with micro no2. this one is buuilt form parts o had gotten in a trade. missing a few items to be complete! :) i think im going to put a grand total of $10 in it to get it to rollin chassis state. only thing ill need is..... nope got a esc. dang, what luck!

maybe i should just stick to these... :confused:

[Interstate]

I was looking at my Skyline body today, thinking about how to paint it, when I noticed that the wheel wells were already cut! :eek: They're not cut out, but the upper part of the wheel well is already cut through. Nice cutting job, but is this normal?

Kinda stupid in my opinion; just anotherplace for paint to bleed through.

[Animeboy123]

yes it is normal for the bodies :)

[Kuya]

Originally posted by Interstate
I was looking at my Skyline body today, thinking about how to paint it, when I noticed that the wheel wells were already cut! :eek: They're not cut out, but the upper part of the wheel well is already cut through. Nice cutting job, but is this normal?

Kinda stupid in my opinion; just anotherplace for paint to bleed through.

Like Animeboy 123 said, it's normal with Micros. With the bodies being so small, HPI decided on scoring the wheel wells seeing as not everyone would be owning a circle cutter and the wells would be too small for conventional scissors. It shouldn't bleed if you pick at it.
Some people hate the scoring because they want to put larger bodies on smaller chassis and vice versa. I say it's a mixed blessing. On the minus side, a 140mm body can only be put on a 140mm and not a 150mm. On the plus side, you get perfectly cut wheel wells all the time.

[GT Freak]

well, found im needing the shocks also to complete my micro... anyone know the part no for these on tower:confused:

[Jason C]

Here's the front shock shafts:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAYT0&P=Z

Here's the shock bodies:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAYT7&P=Z

And the spring set:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAYT1&P=Z


I created a 2wd micro pan car from my Micro. I made one several months ago, but this one has undergone some minor adjustments to create more tuning options, lower CG, and lighter weight. Here are some photos:

[Jason C]

A side view to show the lower profile:

[orbitron]

Jason C - Nice rims. Crazy shock set up (it looks cool to me anyway). I finally got around to taking pics of my NSX i got for Christmas. I wish I had a better camera...
http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/c_nsx/nsx02.JPG

http://www.ualberta.ca/~rodneyf/c_nsx/nsx11.JPG
More pictures here http://www.orbitracing.tk

[GT Freak]

nice car orbitron, welcome to MICRO world! :D

[Interstate]

Couple things here:

If your steering servo keeps popping off of the servo tape, heres a pretty good fix: get some thick double sided tape and tape the bottom like you normaly would. Then put some tape on the top of ther servo, and press the upper deck to it. This makes for two strong fixtures onto the servo.

Now that I've contributed (:D ) I need some help:

I installed the orion big block, and now the rear shock is bending to accomadate it. This seems normal since the BB is so large, but is there any way this can be fixed? It seems like it's hindering the suspention's performance.

[Jason C]

Thanks, orbitron. I got the triple shock idea from Associated's 1/10 pan car and it works quite well - no tweak screws for me! The rims are just Orion Fresh Kicks. That's a great paint job on your NSX!

It sounds like you're using the stock rear suspension, Interstate. The Big Block should have come with two thick washers along with all the mounting hardware. Those washers are used to raise the rear suspension pod up a few millimeters to allow the shock to clear the motor.

[Interstate]

I did put those on. Maybe I put them in the wrong posisition? I put them in between the chassis and rear posts. It says rear body holder, but no arrow in the diagram. Can yall help me?

[Jason C]

Yes, that sounds right - putting the washers between the chassis and rear posts. I'm not sure why you're still having a problem with the rear shock. Are you running 140mm wheelbase? I believe I have heard of problems occurring from using the BB motor with certain wheelbase settings. You can also just run without the shock. The stock chassis's rear pod is pretty stiff and should work fine by itself.

[Interstate]

I'm running the 150 setup.

I'm actually having some pretty good fin with this. Too bad I'monly running in the kitchen and hallway... It's snowing here in michigan again. I can still paint the body though...

[Interstate]

I was not meant to paint... I soooo screwed up this fine skiline body. There was more bleeding going on here than in a slaughter house. I tried some Q-tips and nitro, but this is just not working. I think this is now the official bashing body.

So, are there any pre-painted bodies that look decent that are fairly cheap?

[Kuya]

I will assume that the paint bled because it was too cold. I live in Quebec, and when I paint during the winter, it always bleeds unless you warm everything up.
-If you're using spray cans, put some hot tap water in a cup and let your can float in it for a few mins. take it out and shake it up so that the paint is nice and warm. Also, wherever you're going to paint your car, try to have a space heater there too. make sure the body is warm to the touch. If the body is cold, the vinyl masking will shrink and ripple up causing bleeding. If the body is warm and the paint is warm, then the paint will stick on smooth like silk. After you lay down a coat, hold the body over the heater. it'll dry up in about 30 secs and you'll be ready for a second coat in no time.
-If you're using an airbrush, same thing, just make sure the body and the paints are warm enough and they'll stick nicely.
This is extremely important if you plan to use a metallic style paint because if it's too cold, it won't mix properly and you'll end up with discolored running.
I've wasted many bodies painting in the cold but there's no greater satisfaction when you paint a body for yourself.

[Interstate]

I kinda figured that out when I let it sit by my open window (after all was said and done) and found that all the masks had shriveled up. I didn't leave the paint or body outside to dry between coats though; I took it inside and turned my stove fan on high so it sucked up all the fumes. I guess this means I'll have to wait until april or may to paint again... :(

[Jason C]

I prefer to use an airbrush when I paint and I use water-based Faskolor. It's non-toxic and has no fumes. On top of that, I can wash off overspray easily with soap and water. For painting, (especially in cold weather) I like to keep a hairdryer on hand. I'll usually spray a couple thin coats, gently blow dry the body, then spray a couple more thin coats. I find this process greatly reduces the risk of runs and uneven coats, and it helps speed up the drying time.

[Wallis Racing]

hey all,
just wondering if someone could tell me if the Proline DODGE DAKOTA RT (PRO3129) body is 150 or 140mm? the body isnt on the proline site anymore, and on shops such as tower and stormer, it doesnt state whether is 140 or 150.

i need to know because of having to run in 150mm because of the bigblock motors, i cant use 140mm bodies. and my micro is getting sick of doing jumps with no body;) haha

So could someone with this body tell me what it is?

thanks guys!

Anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[Kuya]

The Dakota is 150mm

i found the dimensions here
http://www.rcshoproal.nl/easyshopmaker/microbodyhpi.html

[SRM4HRVK29]

I'm thinking of buying a faster motor, one of the ones by team orion. What is the difference between the Elite Modified, Big Block, or Core Modified micro motors? Team Orion's website says on the description of each one that it's the most powerful motor for the micro rs4. I'm confused, which motor is the fastest? The Elite Modified is about 20 bucks more expensive than the rest, it doesn't make sense. Could someone help me out?

[GT Freak]

im building a set of micros, the only difference will b the lenght! since both will be evenly set up( 5 cell packs,TO flash,3003 servos) will there be a big difference in handleing?? if so, why :confused:

[SteveK]

Has anybody tried this Novak battery pack? Any good?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEWT4&P=7

If it stinks I'll get a 6-cell Orion. It's mainly for a Mini-T, but it might see duty in my Micro as well: I figured I'd cover all my bases and ask about it here as well.

[orbitron]

I've just cashed in my chips. I'm moving onto a different vehicle. How much do you think a roller with a motor, ARM pan chassis, 5 1100 mAh cells and a HiTech 81mg is worth?

[GT Freak]

well, i got it finished today (thursday) its a stock micro, so far so good, so what?? :D

Stats:
140mm wb
mustang body
futaba receiver and servo
hpi 45t motor
5 cell pack
wondering about esc's now.
my first micro has a TO flash in it, but am wondering what others will work :confused:

[orbitron]

so far so good, so what?? :D
Hey that's a Megadeth song!

[tl01_staniland]

hey here is my micro rs4:
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163611

[microrcdude]

im building a set of micros, the only difference will b the lenght! since both will be evenly set up( 5 cell packs,TO flash,3003 servos) will there be a big difference in handleing?? if so, why :confused: The 140wb is good on twisty tracks. The 150 is good on high speed tracks.

[Jason C]

Has anybody tried this Novak battery pack? Any good?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEWT4&P=7

If it stinks I'll get a 6-cell Orion. It's mainly for a Mini-T, but it might see duty in my Micro as well: I figured I'd cover all my bases and ask about it here as well.

My LHS stocks some. I haven't tried them, but the guys I talked to at the shop much prefer Ofna's Brick Packs. I prefer PN Racing 2/3A cells (Ni-MH 1250mAh). Hoop them up to a Beast dyno-tuned motor and the Micro flies!

[Jero]

I was think about getting a new body for my micro and i want to get the RX-7 and it says it comes with pop-up light buckets. How does that work? Right now i have a BMW M3.

[Kuya]

I was think about getting a new body for my micro and i want to get the RX-7 and it says it comes with pop-up light buckets. How does that work? Right now i have a BMW M3.

pop up lights are a tricky thing to work. They're used on the Trueno and the RX7. To get the light buckets to fit in, you'll have to cut out the space for the light buckets to come out. then once you get the buckets to fit in, you have to either use servo tape or glue to get them to stick up in there. I say it's tricky because your cutting has to be precise to make it fit. over cutting makes the buckets look awkward

[Jero]

Since you say that i have to cut into the body and make it fit, i think iam gonna get a NSX just to make things easy :-). Never was really good at cutting things.Or just get a skyline and add custom LED i saw on ebay.

[sporkface]

Would it be able to transfer the electronic components from a mini-t and put them in a rs4? thanks!

[GT Freak]

Will bodys make a big difference :confused: There both stangs.Only difference is one a 65 fast back(bolink) and the other is a hpi cobra.

[Kuya]

Would it be able to transfer the electronic components from a mini-t and put them in a rs4? thanks!

The ESC and Receiver will definately work if you transfer them, the motor will work depending on the size of the motor and whether it fits into the heatsink.

Will bodys make a big difference :confused: There both stangs.Only difference is one a 65 fast back(bolink) and the other is a hpi cobra.

Bodies make minimal difference. Since the micros can't really reach the speeds of a nitro car, the aerodynamics play a very little role in speed, however some bodies will change the characteristics of your car if you don't have a pan chassis.
For instance, to make a Lambo body fit, the electronics must be in the center of the car, however for an RX7 body, the electronics must be placed furthur back.
The placement of the electronics give the car different turning characteristics.
Electronics in the center will balance the weight however, in a high speed turn, should your car start to slide out, the cenetered weight would slide the enitre car.
Electronics in the rear will give a little weight in the back. In a high speed turn, should the car start to slide out, the rear would kick out slightly but the front would still have traction.
Electronics in the front will give more front heavy weight. In a high speed turn, the car would have better traction but a wider turning circle due to the front weight.
For whatever body you choose, it makes little to no difference as long as you tune your rear diff.

[Jason C]

After trimming off some excess graphite, aluminum, plastic and replacement of a few parts, I now have my Micro at 332.94g running weight.

[GT Freak]

.....and how do u weight that car :confused:

[microrcdude]

scale.

[Jason C]

Yeah. There is a scale at the lab I work at capable of weighing objects up to 1 kilogram.

[Wallis Racing]

Hey all,
I need a little advice from you micro buffs...

I am running the micro with a speed 300, 6cell batt pack, GM V4R esc, Hitec reciever, standard steering servo, HPI steel front uni's, GH front 1-way diff and powerline alloy front knuckles. but unfortunately i just snaped a stock chassis. this is the second time i have done it, prolly only ran about 6 battereys through this chassis... gotta stop jumping this thing. also, i am going to be getting an 8cell pack soon, so will be running 9.6v... means more speed, means more, worse, crashes.

Anyways, my question is, i want an after market chassis, but they are around $50us, where as a stock chassis is like $8us. are the aftermarket ones stronger? or am i just better of with the stock one? when they brake, its from hitting walls rear end first.
Or are there some after market chassis out there with replaceable rear pods, so that i dont have to replace the whole chassis?

thanks,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[Interstate]

Since they're so cheap, you could try buying two, and gluing them together. Though this may require longer screws.

[Jason C]

Hardcore Racing offers titanium chassis parts for the Micro in a variety of colors. I don't think you will be able to break a Ti chassis.

www.racinghardcore.com

[Kuya]

It depends on where the chassis is snapping. If it brakes from hitting the walls rear end first, does that mean it breaks when you reverse it into a wall? or does it spin out into a wall? If anything, Jason is right, switch to a titanium chassis plate, it won't snap, but it may bend if hit hard enough.

[InspGadgt]

Hardcore Racing offers titanium chassis parts for the Micro in a variety of colors. I don't think you will be able to break a Ti chassis.

www.racinghardcore.com

Buddy of mine bent 2 of em and gave up. Metals are good chassis materials for nitro cars for heat dissapation but not for electrics IMO.

[Wallis Racing]

Kuya, they break from spining into the wall, nearly still at full speed. I had seen the HC stuff before, but it didnt click in my head :rolleyes: lol. I was really thinking about it till InspGadgt just said that his mate has bent 2 of them...
How did he do it? Is he going WOT into walls with a brushless or what? Is he bending them at the rear pod or elsewhere?

Cheers,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[microrcdude]

sounds like hes jumpin off roofs to me. you'd think they'd hold up better than that.

[RSBatCRH06]

Ok I’m new to micros but not to this hobby. I have been doing my homework and I’m going to get an micro rs4. but I’m wondering what I should get right after I get it. I’m not going to be racing so I don’t need any suspension, shock etc. but I am thinking of getting the hpi modified motor and the battery pack since I live in the boonies I don’t want to go buy batteries every other day.(I have a charger) this is the only stuff I will put on this micro. I’m just wondering how much all this might cost. thanks.

[InspGadgt]

sounds like hes jumpin off roofs to me. you'd think they'd hold up better than that.

Nope...was a standard accident while racing on a track.

[Kuya]

Breakage is inevitable at high speeds. the chassis aren't designed to be indestructable, they'll break when enough pressure is applied. As for spinning out, is your car doing that constantly? If so, I suggest tweaking springs, tires, wheel placement (change the notches), alternate placement of the electronics, etc. If your car spins out, then it sounds like the weight is distributed unevenly. Micros are a tricky car because of the small size, the electronics weight really effect the driving. if it's off to a side, just a bit, it hinders the control performance.

[TA04PRO]

Hello
I have a question I would like to ask.
Can I use an LRP Runner ESC with any 300 motor for my micro rs4?
The LRP Runner ESC's turn limit is 17.

Also is the Team Orion Micro RS4 Big Block Micro Motor Set any good?

[Jason C]

Wow, bending a Ti chassis? I used one before and literally drove it to heck and back without any damage. Oh well, carbon fiber is still my chassis material of choice.

RSBatCRH06,

The HPI mod motor is around $20-$25 and the battery pack can run from $20-$33. The packs can be had in 5 or 6 cell versions (6 cells costing slightly more). Expect to pay about $50 for the motor and battery pack.


TA04PRO,

Yes, the Runner ESC will handle the 300 motor with no problems at all. It was designed for use with 540 motors - the 300 motor doesn't draw nearly as much current as a 540. The Orion Big Block motor is decent. Basically, it is the same as most other 300 sized motors offered through different manufacturers; the motor is just a rebadged Speed 300 motor. Some on-line stores offer tuned 300 motors which are noticable more powerful.

[Interstate]

I've been looking at this BATTERY (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEKX4&P=M) I've got the orion big block motor and a novak spy. Alkalines and lithium pile batteries aren't too cost effective or powerful. Is that orion battery pack a good one?

Can someone reccommend a charger that can do the job, but not at a high price?

[microrcdude]

the duratrax digital piranaha charger is perfect for the job.

[RSBatCRH06]

what about a Duratrax IntelliPeak Deluxe Pulse Charger for the battery pack from hpi :confused:

[Interstate]

THIS ONE? (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=7) Got anything cheaper in mind?

Do I need a discharger as well?

[Jason C]

That's probably one of the best low-priced charger for Ni-MH cells. There are a few cheaper chargers, but they are either DC only, non-peak charge, or Ni-Cd only. When it comes to chargers, I suggest you spend a little more to get a good one. I have the Intellipeak Deluxe and it works very well. I occasionally get false peaks, but it happens. Because the cells are Ni-MH, a discharger is not necessary. Just run the pack until the car slows to a crawl.

[Interstate]

I'm well aware that the more you spend on a charger (usually) the better it will do it duties. But this is for my micro RS4! I only use it every other weekend, if I really feal like it... I just can't justify spending a whole mess of money on this. ehh, I'll prolly spend a ton anyway. Maybe I'll order those this weekend.

[Interstate]

HEY! Is the MRC Super Brain 959 Charger a good alternative? It's the same rice on tower, and does the same things. (I think?)

[Interstate]

scratch that last comment, I got a Prophet Plus from my lhs today and a venom 1100 7.2V NiMH. What rate should I charge at (1, 2, or 4amps) and for how long?

[verbal]

Are the micros worth spending the $100+ on? Or should I just spend the extra $100 for a 1/10th scale car? Can these compare to the 1/10s only smaller?

Are micros just like Xmods? Or how are they different?

[Jason C]

Interstate,

2 amps ought to work well. Your charger should peak around 30-40 minutes.

Verbal,

I think Xmods really can't compare to the Micros. For one thing, Micros have fully proportional control, and there are lots more aftermarket parts for them. Also, the 1/18 cars are more race-worthy if you plan to compete. Personally, I love the Micro; it's small enough to be driven anywhere and can be hopped-up to be as fast as a 1/10.

[verbal]

Interstate,
Verbal,

I think Xmods really can't compare to the Micros. For one thing, Micros have fully proportional control, and there are lots more aftermarket parts for them. Also, the 1/18 cars are more race-worthy if you plan to compete. Personally, I love the Micro; it's small enough to be driven anywhere and can be hopped-up to be as fast as a 1/10.

I really want to get into RC cars but I'm on a tight budget right now. I was looking the micros because of their $100 range. Still trying to decide if I'm getting one this weekend.

Are the Micro RS4s able to drift stock? Or would they need major mods?

[Jason C]

They can easily drift in stock trim. The stock tires are not the grippiest rubber, so you can easily break traction and slide around. If that isn't slick enough for you, wrap the rears in tape. Use 4 alkaline AA batteries for a full 6V to give the motor more torque so you can keep the wheels spinning. Four rechargable batts only give 4.8V, which result in lower speeds and less power.

You have 2 choices in getting a Micro; a kit or RTR. There really isn't much of a cost savings in choosing a RTR over a kit. All you get extra in a RTR is the car factory assembled and painted.

[Kuya]

I really want to get into RC cars but I'm on a tight budget right now. I was looking the micros because of their $100 range. Still trying to decide if I'm getting one this weekend.

Are the Micro RS4s able to drift stock? Or would they need major mods?

I'm going to start out by clearing something that has been bugging me for a long time.

In the world of R/C, the car is not what makes the drift, it's the tires. People say "Micros are great for drifting", and truth be told, EVERY car is good for drifting. First of all, when people talk about micros and drifting, the first thing you need is a flat slippery surface to drive on, hardwood floors, concrete, linoleum, etc. Next thing is the tires. When you first get your Micro, you'll notice that it grips. That is because the tires are clean and gripping to the surface. After a few minutes of driving, dirt will stick to the tire thus making it lose grip, and in turn cause your car to slide out.

The fact of the matter is, that as long as the car has poor traction, the car will slide out. I have R/C cars from Radio Shack (tanks, cars, guy on skateboard, etc.) that I made drift out just by smoothing out the tires. 1/10 electrics, Nitros, zipzaps, etc. etc. etc. will drift out as long as the traction is poor. That is the reason why most 1/10 drifters have PVC wheels now.

The micro will drift on smooth hard surfaces as long as dirt sticks to your tires. Modding is not needed, however, the placement of the electronics will determine the angle at which the car loses traction and it wil determine how much control you'll have over the car in a drift.

[Interstate]

I'm running a 7.2V 1100 venom pack with a novak spy, and an orion big block. After about 5 or 10 minutes of running, the motor gets really hot, and the batter gets pretty warm. I've got this DC brushless fan from radio shack that I think I could shoe horn it in on the rear upper deck. It's rated at 12 volts, .13A, 1.56W. How could I wire this up, and how much power/runtime will it take away from my runs? Oh, BTW, I'm using the 13 tooth pinion. I've used the 8 tooth, but it gets just as hot.

[microrcdude]

Buy this: http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=270-325
And this: http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=23-883

[Interstate]

Rumageing through my things, I already have those components. Now I'm just woried that the extra weight of the battery will affect handleing. woe is me...

[Greg_Hager]

Has anyone tried these batteries?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44020&item=5900116174&rd=1

I know they're off ebay, but I figured for $25 it would be worth a try. :)

[Interstate]

They do have some nice capacity, but they're so wide, you'd never fit them on where the batteries are supposed to go. You could put them on the top deck, but then your handleing would turn to crap! I'd suggest something like orions 7.2 1200mah pack, or venoms 7.2 1100mah pack.

[SuperNootz]

Has anyone tried these batteries?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44020&item=5900116174&rd=1

I know they're off ebay, but I figured for $25 it would be worth a try. :)

I have them, and I love them! They DO fit on the stock battery mounting upper deck. I use strapping tape to hold them on it. I bought enough upper decks so I have one for each battery. They are a bargain and they do work very well!

[Greg_Hager]

I'm gonna get them, but I'm gonna try one of these too. :)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPD5&P=7

What do ya think? :D

[austinelse]

These are suppose to be the best of the best in a 2/3A cell

They are at www.cheapbatterypacks.com

[Greg_Hager]

Very cool. I do have to say that I can't complain one bit about my Micro right now...other than it has so much torque it broke a front universal. lol HPI Steel ones are on their way though with a Team Orion Y-Power Chassis Conversion.

http://www.team-orion.ch/images/48120-l.jpg

Should run pretty good. I kinda messed up the Dakota body, so I ordered a Murcielago. Did I mention they're both Flourescent Green? :D

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Hey guys, I've been into r/c since the late 80's and have owned just about every thing out there at one time or another, but I have never owned a micro car. I know more than I can remember sometimes about 10th and 8th scale stuff but I know absolutly nothing about micros, and I mean NOTHING. :) To be honest, it's just like before I ever got into r/c in the first place. Everything is new and exciting to me about it. I'm very interested in getting one of the HPI micros. I'm really lost though.... for instance, what the heck is up with micro motors?? All differnet size cans and stuff? Are they different than 540 motors we use in tenth scale? I mean to say, can you buy the same size cans with a different number of turns and winds inside like I'm use to, or do you just keep buying physically larger motors?

Can someone try to explain to me what the different micro rs4 motors are? I'd be really grateful. I also don't understand how you know which micro motors work with what micro batteries and which motors require you to modify your motor plate or other parts of the car? Also, I have a mc230 futaba esc. Will that work? Or do you have to use a certain size battery or motor with it? Or am I better off to buy a Novak spy or something other than the futaba. Ok, take me to school! :)

[Jason C]

Glad to hear you have an interest in Micros, tamiya4x4dryver :)
Where to begin...?

Basically, the Micro cars are the same as the 1/10 cars, only smaller. The HPI Micro can use standard sized 1/10 electronics (probably not the standard sized electronics from the 80's :D ). The issue with motors is that we are constantly looking for more power, longer runtimes, etc. (same dilemmas with the 1/10 guys). This has led us Micro drivers to experiment with motors of different sizes. The principle of turns and winds still apply to the micro scene. The stock motor included with the Micro is a 180 size with 65 turns. A 45 turn motor of the same size is available for a little more power and speed. A 180 sized coreless motor is available that is way more powerful that the stock motor, but is expensive.

Though the 45 turn motor is more powerful, it is still anemic which brings us to the 280, 300, 400 and even 540 sized motors. The most common of the sizes used is the 300, which is the largest motor that can be stuffed into the stock chassis without major modifications - all you need is to buy a special 300 size motor plate and everything drops in. There are several on-line shops that sell tuned 300 motors. A few examples are the Rabid Chihuahua, Krystal 3, and Beast 300. The 300 sized motors offer excellent power and decent runtimes, which is why it is so popular. With my stock 180 motor, I can barely get the tires to spin out, but my Beast tuned 300 can easily light up the wheels even on 4 cells.
There are even conversion kits for the Micro allowing you to drop in a 540 motor. With something even as mild as a 19t mod, the Micro will easily break 40 MPH and literally spin the tires off the wheels.
It's like asking the question,"which is more powerful, a 1.8-liter engine or a 5.7 liter engine?" The answer is obvious, which is the same reason why larger motors are often used.

Batteries can range from store-bought AAAs to matched 2/3A size packs. The nice thing about the smaller motors is that they sip a lot less juice than the 540s used in 1/10 allowing far longer runtimes and the ability to use cheaper batteries. The stock Micro includes a holder for 4 AA or AAA cells. Only alkaline batteries provide enough voltage fo have reasonable speeds, which results in drivers quickly tossing the stock holder in favor of a 5 or 6 cell Ni-MH pack.
The typical size of cell used in Micro racing is the 2/3A - basically a shrunken version of the sub-C. Some of the cells we commonly use are the KAN1050, the PN Racing 1250, and the Gold Peak1100. Companies like Trinity offer matched packs if you so like. Such cells are usually reserved for the higher-end motors like the tuned 300s and brushless motors. If you use the 180s, you can get away with building your own pack from store bought Ni-MH AA or AAAs.

Your Futaba ESC will work fine in the Micro. Basically any 1/10 ESC will work in a Micro so long as you are within the battery limit. The smaller motors draw far less current than what the ESCs were designed for so they won't even get warm. The only problem with using 1/10 gear is the potential for cramped space. ESCs like the SPY are made extra small to fit in what little space 1/18 cars have. If you stick with the stock Micro chassis, you will have plenty of room for the MC230 and a full size receiver.

I could go on about Micros and what else there is, but I'll save that for later if needed. I hope that answers you questions. Feel free to PM me if you have any more :)

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Jason, can't thank you enough for ringing the bell and taking me to school! That cleared alot of things up for me. I'm sure I'll have more questions, so I'll let you know. My wife actually has unlimited long distance on our home phone, so maybe I'll give you a call when I get my questions together if that would be ok with you.

Thanks!

[Jason C]

Glad I could help! Feel free to call me if you like. I'll PM you about it.

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Sounds good Jason. I sent you a message via e-mail.

[RustyT3FT]

I've got into my micro again and I've noticed that it turns quicker to the left. Any of yours do that? MY dual rate is fine and the weight bias is pretty close to center (reciever is over to the left slightly). I think it's the stock gear diff.

[SlipNSlide]

I am going to be at a race in late August that will feature a Modified Micro Class. All types of Micros are allowed (e.g. M18, Yokomo, BRM and HPI). Modified motors are allowed and 5 or 6 cell batteries.

Right now, all I have is a stock HPI micro.

What is the best options I can purchase to be competitive at this race. Don't care if I win just want a chance which i will not have in stock form

[microrcdude]

well, if 300 size motors are allowd, race those. But, if they arent, the orion coreless and HPI mod are good step-up motors. I would run the new trinity matched packs, or the orion 6 cell supercharger pack

[microrcdude]

I need a servo thats small, lightweight, and is under $30. can anyone help?

[NitroMan15]

I just got a hitec hs-81. I think it is that fastest servo out there. Great servo. I got mine for14.65 but I work at my lhs but our price is 17.99. Then you can also get the metal gear servo but it weighs more.

[Piggy89373]

ok, I'm curious about the micro. I've been in and out of rc for about 12 yrs now, and the micro really has caught my eye. Jason, you post was outstanding and answered a lot of my questions. However, regarding steering servos, how much torque is necessary for these things. I'm used to 1/10th, and not sure about the required torque for these little beasties.

[studysession]

I am new to the Micro seen. 2 weeks ago I purchased a Micro RS4 and this week I picked up a used MiniT RTR.

I have now done a 540 conversion on the MRS4 but have not ran it with a 540 size motor yet. Right now I am running it with the Mamba 8000. Extremely fast little car. Once I am another brushless ESC for the 540 size motors, I will install a 540 brushless motor. Right now my brushless ESC is in mt 1/10 scale car for the speed challenge. So need to get another for the Micro RS4.

[BJoeHandley]

Are there any larger wheel/tire combos available for this car? I just discovered that the Bud's J Racing Truck bodies will fit the MRS4 with the short wheelbase. Only problem is that the front wheel openings are too big to look right with the normal size front tires on that body. I don't own a MRS4 yet, but I'm seriously thinking about getting a used one for this purpose. Anything I should look out for? I've gotten pretty lucky on my E-Pede and N4T sofar and I have a line on a second hand one.

[GT Freak]

Bud's J Racing Truck bodies are these new?? can i see a pic of these :confused:

[BJoeHandley]

Here's the company pic.

[BJoeHandley]

And here's one of My Mini-Me-T J-Truck

[studysession]

Here is my MiniT - there is also a video as well.

http://studysession.com/Car-MiniT.html

[GT Freak]

like that body, nice looking, bet it would be a good bashing body :D

[microrcdude]

Here's the company pic.
wow, now thats a nice truck!

[BJoeHandley]

It seems to fit better when you chop the bumper and flares off. It also fits the 140mm MRS4 nicely too. Here's a one of the project ideas I have for the two.

[microrcdude]

lol jeep race trucks?

[BJoeHandley]

If I remember right, the Archer Brothers took the championship too.

[bmallen11]

i have a micro that i want to go reeeeealllllyyy fast with will someone please tell me where i can get a good 540 coversion

[BJoeHandley]

I'd got brushless with a big Li-Poly.

[studysession]

540 conversions: http://www.aktionrc.com/

[microrcdude]

Thats sweet! Do you guys still have motor plates in stock?

[studysession]

Send an email to the guy who owns the site.

[microrcdude]

Ok, thanks

[TA04PRO]

Hey Guys.
I have some questions to ask.

What are the pro's and con's of the Team Orion Elite Modified Motor and the Team Orion Big Block motor?
How many turns are the elite and big block motor?
What esc's can handle the big block and the elite motor?
Is the Big Block Motor 300 size?
Do I Need to buy any extra parts besides steel pinion gears since I want to make my car faster?
What are the best mods to buy for the micro?

Thanks

[shiffs]

here is some pics of my micro rs4 drift:
wish i had some vids of me tearin it up :D

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/shiffs72/100_2789.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/shiffs72/100_2791.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/shiffs72/100_2793.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/shiffs72/100_2777.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d189/shiffs72/100_2832.jpg

Thanks for looking,
~JaSoN