Team Associated B4 buggy forum v3.0

[viperx07]

Well, I took it out for a full day at the track and I didnt strip any gears. It has medium to high traction. Of course I had my transmitter at 70% throttle epa or else the car would just turn to the side from all the power if i floored it. I will try to play around with 3s lipos and see what happens.

[Miedin]

Could somebody give me the measurement of the length of the entire front shock from top to bottom? I want to see if they will fit on my car. It would be very much appreciated.

*Edit

Nevermind I found the info already.

[Ghostface Buggy]

TIDOW!!!!TIDOW!!!!WHACK!!!!WHACK!!!!WHACK!!!!!

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p315/LeodisFlowers/3361B4_-_New_Body.jpg

[slaf]

You did a pretty nice paint job

I didn't have any talent for body painting, I keep things as simple as I can... I mean one color !!!

Here's my B4

http://www.myrcbox.com/images/myb4_2007.jpg

[dupsta]

I want to change my pinion on my B4 RTR. I want a smaller tooth pinion for more acceleration. Does anyone know how many teeth come on the stock pinion for the associated B4 RTR? The stock motor is the Reedy 17T.

[slaf]

I want to change my pinion on my B4 RTR. I want a smaller tooth pinion for more acceleration. Does anyone know how many teeth come on the stock pinion for the associated B4 RTR? The stock motor is the Reedy 17T.

Stock pinion is 23T

[oneoff]

:confused: O.k. this is driving me nuts ! I just put a new motor in my B4 and when it gets about 25 feet from the transmiter the motor starts to cut in and out but when it's close it's fine. So I checked all conections on receiver, motor and every thing else I could think of, nothing! Yes I checked the radio batteries. Then I put the old motor back in the car it worrks like a charm. Put the new motor back in and same old thing. Any ideas?????
Thanks,
Erik

[dhauch]

TIDOW!!!!TIDOW!!!!WHACK!!!!WHACK!!!!WHACK!!!!!
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p315/LeodisFlowers/3361B4_-_New_Body.jpg

i like that alot!
that is one of the best paint jobs i've seen, great job!

dave hauch

[slaf]

:confused: O.k. this is driving me nuts ! I just put a new motor in my B4 and when it gets about 25 feet from the transmiter the motor starts to cut in and out but when it's close it's fine. So I checked all conections on receiver, motor and every thing else I could think of, nothing! Yes I checked the radio batteries. Then I put the old motor back in the car it worrks like a charm. Put the new motor back in and same old thing. Any ideas?????
Thanks,
Erik

What's the model of your new motor ? Did you install capacitors ????

[oneoff]

Thank's SLAF, Just installed the caps, and she absolutly screems !!!!
Thanks agin I'm a knuklehead when it comes to these things .

[baseline]

No problems from my B4 tranny and I have raced it every week for a year now.

But, I do make sure that my slipper clutch is slipping for the first 1-2 feet.

Sacrificing the slipper clutch pads will save many many other parts....

how do you go about setting your slipper clutch to do that?
newbie here

thanks

[microrcdude]

My B4 is for sale, $100 shipped to your door if your in the continental US.

[Ghostface Buggy]

i like that alot!
that is one of the best paint jobs i've seen, great job!

dave hauch

RC Paint By Sonny (RCPBS) painted it for me. He's a really nice guy, only charges $30, and he does great work. Here's a look at my recently lipo'd B4:

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p315/LeodisFlowers/B4Lipo.jpg

[Jayboy]

that thing looks mean!!
How fast does it go?

[crazy4wdracer]

that thing looks sick, nice paintjob by the way!!!

[Ghostface Buggy]

that thing looks mean!!
How fast does it go?

As the local race director always likes to say, "slower is faster".

I have an LRP 7.5 geared at 20/84. I've never clocked its top speed, but it probably goes around 40 - 50 mph. If the 7.5 is good enough for the factory racers, it's good enough for me.

Now I just need to get more local racers to go lipo so we can have 15 minute mains. I hope that happens sooner than later...

[Drkmstr104]

Gah O_O!

its .... sooo ..... clean O_O!!!!!!

O_o where exactly have you raced it?

[Ghostface Buggy]

Gah O_O!

its .... sooo ..... clean O_O!!!!!!

O_o where exactly have you raced it?

I haven't raced it anywhere with the lipo yet...Just practiced a couple times and I'm patiently waiting for the track to allow them. Now I'm wishing I'd held off on buying a lipo because Orion says they're coming out with a new platinum that weighs just as much as IB4200's. That means no more adding lead weight and possibly raising the cg. DOH!!! (Maybe they'll make mine "heavy" for a price...)

BTW, If anyone wants some B4 bling, check out this thread:

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=236185

[Drkmstr104]

Lol why do you want the batteries to be heavy? That gives opportunity to some new tuning options, lol like putting a weight towards the front of the buggy so it handles better, or putting it in the back so it gets higher accel... stuff like that... but since the batteries weigh less it makes it heck of a lotta faster with accel anyways, less inertia. Are lipos illegal because they weigh so little? Lol and are they illegal because thier energy density is far superior when compared to a NiMh o_O? Lol and also because their voltage seems to remain steadier and stuff... Well.... i guess racing in a "stock" class isnt really stock at all, since everything can be different, including tires, motors, SPEED CONTROLLERS are the biggest difference!, batteries, lol and so forth....

[juntom10]

i don't know why associated don't make more B4 FT, T4 FT???

TOWER says not is stock since few months ago, and still not in stock..

other retailers also.....

[B4 Stealth]

ok I just got a hold of a big sheet of 7075-t6 aluminum (i love dumpster diving)
and I am debating what to do with it. then I had an Idea to get a used b4, don't really care the condition, as long as it has all the parts, and experiment with a saddle type layout, and maybe reverse the tranny, to get a more 4wd type weight balance. what do you guys think about it? should i try it? if it handles better (is it possible??) i will market a conversion kit.

[Drkmstr104]

ok I just got a hold of a big sheet of 7075-t6 aluminum (i love dumpster diving)
and I am debating what to do with it. then I had an Idea to get a used b4, don't really care the condition, as long as it has all the parts, and experiment with a saddle type layout, and maybe reverse the tranny, to get a more 4wd type weight balance. what do you guys think about it? should i try it? if it handles better (is it possible??) i will market a conversion kit.

I don't know about creating a whole new chassis setup or anything, I think that aluminum would not be very good because of its weight, and the fact that it tends to retain its shape when bent, rather then springing back into its original form. What you could do though, and I have thought about doing this a few times, but I could never really find a good design, is to make somewhat of a cooling system for the motor. Aluminum is great for conducting heat, so that might be another thing to go for, create a heat sink =D!

Otherwise, if you have all of the proper tools, it would be pretty awesome to experiment and see what you can come up with. The nice thing about creating your own chassis is the fact that you can put whatever you want, wherever you want! Personally, I would keep the motor where it is, in the back, and move the battery pack forward to increase handling, maybe have the servo on the side and so on. I cant really think of anything else that I would modify, the B4 is really well designed.


Aluminum is pretty easy to work with, it just depends on your mechanical skill.
Good luck, Id really like to see how this project (if you decide on doing it) will turn out!

-Drkmstr104

[B4 Stealth]

I am going to use Aluminum for prototyping, and the extra weight might be a good thing for lipo drivers. then I will start trying C-fibe. I will experiment and see what I come up with.

[juntom10]

umm..

i don't know why tower and other hobby shops don't have b4 ft or t4 ft.....

since january...

anyone knows why?

[TT-01 Mamba]

What pinion gear ahould i use with a b4 on 5700kv mamba with 11 nimh cells weighing it down?
i want it to keep cool and i mean cool
plus i want some decent speeds

[microrcdude]

Anyone still around?

[Rear Admiral]

ok I just got a hold of a big sheet of 7075-t6 aluminum (i love dumpster diving)
and I am debating what to do with it. then I had an Idea to get a used b4, don't really care the condition, as long as it has all the parts, and experiment with a saddle type layout, and maybe reverse the tranny, to get a more 4wd type weight balance. what do you guys think about it? should i try it? if it handles better (is it possible??) i will market a conversion kit.

You might want to check this out - sounds like what you have in mind...

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewx6/

[Metla]

Greetings Folks,

Just about to order a B4, Is it worth spending the extra on the Factory Team model?

What are the differences, and do they translate to real world results?

[JeffEmbracedDC]

Greetings Folks,

Just about to order a B4, Is it worth spending the extra on the Factory Team model?

What are the differences, and do they translate to real world results?

some of the differences are style, some are performance, and some are durability.

The differences between the Team and the Factory Team are these

STYLE

Blue motor plate
blue aluminum screws
Blue front spindles


DURABILITY

Ubontanium Shock Shafts
Titanium Turnbuckles


PERFORMANCE

Carbon arms
Carbon knuckles
Carbon caster blocks
Carbon rear carriers
Carbon main chassis
Carbon shock towers
Carbon top plate
Carbon rear chassis brace
Threaded shock bodies
Woven carbon fiber battery strap
Lightened steel Outdrives
Steering rack bearings
I think it comes with a sway bar kit.


There are a few more that cross over style, durability and performance. One being the blue aluminum servo mounts. they're stronger, look cooler and will give you more reliable steering. Another is the aluminum hingepin brace. looks cool and makes your car stronger.

I think that's it.. however, I can't tell ya for sure. I don't even own one.

Real world results:

your car looks cooler
your turnbuckles are lighter and much much stronger
your shock shafts stay smooth longer which results in less rebuilds. They're also stronger than standard steel shock shafts.
The carbon parts are lighter and harder. The standard composite components flex a little more and add weight which ultimately makes the car easier to drive for beginners. This is more of a personal preference than an "upgrade" but they are in the kit to make it truly "factory team".
The lightened steel outdrives are of course lighter, they look a little cooler, and they supposedly make you accelerate faster. However, they're not as strong as the standard steel outdrives.

[Metla]

Interesting, seems a bit of a mixed bag.

I remember reading a while ago that the factory drivers don't even use the chassis that comes with the factory team kit, any idea if that is true?

[JeffEmbracedDC]

I don't know about the B4.. But I do know for a fact that IS the case with the T4. The reason for this is a combination of the added flexibility of the standard composite chassis and the added weight to a low portion of the car which makes it easier to drive. I believe they usually use most of the plastic pieces (arms, knuckles, etc) for the same reason.

-Jeff

[Metla]

Cheers, I bit the bullet and ordered the Factory Team Kit.

[Metla]

Anyone know if its possible to dye the wheels a different colour?

[Drkmstr104]

I doubt you could dye the rims... i dont think that plastic absorbs colors very well lol. you're better off with spray paint, I suggest white proline rims, apply a thin cote of paint, too much paint will make em look bad.

[Metla]

Thanks, But I have been told the supplied rims absorb the dye just fine. I had hoped this would be the case.

Personally I wouldn't ever paint a rim, It would chip off on the first run.

[Rear Admiral]

"Rit" fabric dye works a treat - mix it with boiling water and submerge the wheels for 10 mins, take out and rinse in cold water, and you're there. You can use whatever colour you like; black is popular, but I've also seen orange used and it looked cool.

Word of warning: if you already have tyres and foam inserts fitted, it is next to impossible to get the dye mix out of the foams, and they will leak colour every time you get them wet... Best to glue the tyres on after you dye the wheels.

[Helgaiden]

my drivetrain seems to not be as free as other B4s ive encountered and it might be causing my motor to heat up more than it should with good gearing, so does anyone know how to fix this? If someone can point me in the direction of a guide or walkthrough on how to do it, that'd be great. Also, if need lube or grease, what would i need?

[Helgaiden]

ok so i took apart my diff, cleaned it out, put some WD40 in the ball diff and and surrounding bearings, and cleaned the tranny with motor cleaner. I put it back together and im noticing my diff making a bit of a high pitch squeak if...lets say i hold the buggy down and gas it hard, or if i make a turn and slam the throttle coming out of it. Overall, it isnt really affecting my driving at all but im just worried about doing damage to the tranny/diff. Did i not tighten the diff enough when i put it back together? Any help would be great.

[Metla]

After cleaning it with those products did you lube her back up?

[Rear Admiral]

WD40 won't cut it for diff lube - you need a good quality grease, and plenty of it. This is one area I wouldn't skimp on - grab the correct stuff from your LHS.

Here's how I check that the diff is tight enough; with the spur cover off and looking at the back of the car, I hold the spur gear tightly with the fingers of my right hand and use the heel of my right hand to push the right hand rear tyre down into the table, effectively clamping it. Whilst doing this, I lift the left rear wheel off the ground with my left hand and try to turn it. With the spur held tight and the right rear wheel clamped down, you shouldn't be able to turn the left wheel without a HUGE effort. If you can turn it easily, it's too loose - nip it up and test again, repeating the process until it's right.

The squealing you hear when you hold the car down and rev it, or punch it hard out of corners, could be the slipper clutch slipping. With the spur cover off, hold the car down and hit the throttle - if both the spur and slipper plates turn, then it's the diff that's slipping; if the only the spur turns, then it's the clutch. Once you've set up the diff properly, you can adjust the slipper - I like it slip for about a foot or two when I apply full throttle from a standing start on a high grip surface. Like this, the clutch should slip before the diff, helping to protect it (and the motor).

Hope this helps.

[Helgaiden]

well the slipper never slipped like that before i redid the diff, so im thinking i just did the diff up wrong.

[timie1]

Is this board dead now?
Does anyone here run 7 cells in their B4? If so, how do you fit them in?

[timie1]

Is this board dead now?
Does anyone here run 7 cells in their B4? If so, how do you fit them in?

Don't worry. I have it all figured out now. Nobody rush with the help:p:D

[Adanmtxt1]

If you really want 7 cells, you will need to do one of two things:
either remove some chassis gusset material to allow 7 cells like || || || ||....

or discard the stock battery retention bar and use velcro straps or something similar to allow one cell to ride on top of two lower cells.

[30percent]

Anyone know if its possible to dye the wheels a different colour?

99% of all white rims can be dyed with RIT. Even the gray parts that Traxxas has now an be turned Red, Blue, Black etc. When you heat the plastic (boil in dye water) it absorbs the color.

I dyed the stock AE wheels Orange. Works great!

[Needler56]

anyone ever try a novak gtb 3.5r with the b4? it says it's not recommended on novak's site, but is there a workaround?

[volvo9]

:wave: New guy to the Forums here. I got a B4RS for Christmas this year and have been goofing around with it for a while now and love it, however it's been too cold here in New England to get the most enjoyment out of it.

I've been out of the hobby for about 8 years, I sold my Traxxas Bandit when I was 17 after I got my license. I had it for a few years, did some upgrades to it and used it allll the time. Definately had fun with it, and lots has changed since then!

So anyways, I borrowed my brothers Mamba Max 7700 and had SO much fun that I went out and bought my own, which should be at my door when I get home today. However I destroyed what was left of the stock tires very quickly! I only use my car on road, does anyone have some good tire suggestions?

Also is there anything I should be doing with the stock wheel bearings? I like to take really good care of my cars and took them out the other day to clean them but they looked really well sealed and still felt great so I just wiped them down and put them back. Are these maintenance free or is there a special way to clean and lube them because of the seals?

thanks!

[hotshot52]

hey im also a new guy to the forums and i suggest getting some pro-line tires such as road rage or maybe all terrains like boe ties or somethin'

i'm getting a b4ft; the reason i know a lot about the b4 is because my friend has one and he needed some help with tires and he thought the all terrains worked best

[hotshot52]

i want to get a b4ft for my birthday and i was wondering what kind of brushless system that i could get and go about 55-60 (i will have lipo's)

[volvo9]

i want to get a b4ft for my birthday and i was wondering what kind of brushless system that i could get and go about 55-60 (i will have lipo's)

My buddy has a Mamba Max 5700 with a 3s lipo and it hauls some serious ass in his rustler. I'm sure the B4 would go faster since it's lighter and probrably has a more efficient gear train compared to the loud metal gears in his rustler.

[hotshot52]

i'll try it but what if i put a 6900 kv in it with a 2s lipo that would go super fast probably too but thanks for the help

[jasonw]

I am a little disappointed at the handling of the B4. I purchased a stock RTR from Tower and thus far the handling on my B3 kit was so much better. I checked the manual and it is already set up with all there recommendations for the best rear traction and handling but it still commonly spins out on the straits and forget about regaining control. I have to just about come to a compleat stop and then give it another go. The slipper and diff seem to be working properly, Any recommendations or setting I can try to improve the handling at all? As a side note I am not racing. The most common ground I am driving on is about an inch of fairly loose powder on top of very hard packed dirt

[LearjetMinako]

I'm back in the world of people. Its been a long few years since I have posted here. I decided after digging out the closet to possibly start back in R/C's again. I've lost touch with all the new gear tech and just starting to get a grasp of the R/C world again. Checked with my local R/C track and found he is still around. I've decided to focus sololy on the AE B4 buggy for racing. Even thou I have a few other, the action is outside on a dirt oval track. So that is where I'll begin. Luckily, my 2x Fusion GP3700 packs didn't give out on me and are holding a charge very good.

Trying my best to reignite the flame inside that I once knew. Glad to back. :wave:

[mrplease]

thanks to ryan at upgrade!! real cool dude!! you guys gotta get their skins!!

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh68/mrpleaseplease/my%20b44/IMG_5125.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh68/mrpleaseplease/my%20b44/IMG_5124.jpg

[LearjetMinako]

very nice!!! :cool:

[mrplease]

oops! i meant to post this in the b44 section...

sorry guys!

[LearjetMinako]

Who cares. Its still a sweet ride.

[LearjetMinako]

Where is everyone on this thread. :wave:

Got the B4 out on the track for some practice. Quite amazing that it was able to keep up even with the nitro buggies and trucks. Just a little more power from the brushless and I could have started running laps around these guys. Maybe an upgrade for the brushless is in order.

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff165/LearjetMinako/05-18-08_1510.jpg
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff165/LearjetMinako/05-18-08_1526.jpg

All for 4hrs of practice, 1x new set of hole shot and 2x rear set already worn hole shot.

[Mini-TBasher55]

When I ran my B4 with Mamba 5700 on 2s at open practice this winter, it was dominated by 1/8th scales. I was able to actually keep up for the most part even though it was my first time racing the buggy...its kinda fun.

Nice B4 btw.

[LearjetMinako]

I've got the order for a new Novak brushless system. Upgrading from the orginal SS5800 (8.5) to a Velociti Racing 5.5 system. Should be a very good upgrade since I only needed to go a little faster. A 5.5 should be plenty. Also since I'll be burning rubber, new rubber has been ordered. The Hole Shot lasted the entire pratice before losing lateral grip. The Bowtie's just plain sucked on blue groove. Had a set of rear's, lasted only 2 packs before they were going bold. I figure the Inside Job R3 tires should work best. I also run the 4wd Inside Job on the front.

[ErikRC10]

^^ Yeah Bow Ties are for loose dusty tracks with very low grip not blue groove.

I took my FT B4 out for the first time in forever (2 years or so) and I was surprised at how fast I was. I was out running a guy with a XXX-4 graphite plus with a Mamba Max 7700 and lipos. Just so you know I was using a Novak SS13.5 and 4200's. I was pretty close to the lap record too. Can't wait to take my 7.5 and stick it in there..

[Mini-TBasher55]

Ugh I can't wait to get my Mamba Max back from Castle and run it at Leisure...should be a lot of fun!

[LearjetMinako]

I've got to practice a little (in front of my house) to test and try the Novak 5.5 system. Even with gearing reduced from a 22t (5800) to 19t (5.5), its still faster than the old brushless. Tire burn outs are now on demand. Being smooth on the throttle is a required skill. Once the weather clears, I'll try to get out on the track for some real pratice.

[starwobble]

I recently acquired myself a bastard child of a b4 and a t4. It's got a T4 chassis shock towers with B4 wheels and a arms. Oy. I'm in the process of converting it to a b4. Anyhow, I've been looking for some used shocks. 80 bucks for 4 new ones is a little out of my range. If anyone has some used ones they want to get rid of, I'd like to take them off your hands. Thanks in advance!

[momosport]

I've been looking for some used shocks. 80 bucks for 4 new ones is a little out of my range. If anyone has some used ones they want to get rid of, I'd like to take them off your hands. Thanks in advance!


Try picking up Just the buggy Shock bodies. You should be able to use the shock parts from the other shocks in the shock bodies. shock shafts might be a bit long, but you can use a few limiters and perhaps slightly thicker oil and stiffer springs.


MOmo

[Mini-TBasher55]

eBay them.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=unknown&sbrftog=1&dfsp=32&from=R40&satitle=B4+shocks&sacat=-1%26catref%3DC6&sargn=-1%26saslc%3D2&sadis=200&fpos=ZIP%2FPostal&sabfmts=1&saobfmts=insif&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=&fsop=32%26fsoo%3D2&fgtp=

Scroll down, you can find front and rears starting at $2. They won't end above 15-20

[LearjetMinako]

My B4 is getting closer to being race ready. I got practice on the track with the Novak 5.5, only to find, I'm running the same lap times. I figure since my battery packs were so old, they must no longer supply enough amps to pull the speed I need. So after some consideration, I order 3x SMC Ener-G Race packs. The stick numbers are much approvement from the older GP3700. Hopefully this sunday, if the weather holds, I'll be able unleash the full power of the Novak 5.5 and surpass the 8sec lap times.

[fishymamba]

Hi, I wanted to know if there are any on-road tires for the b4. If there are any can you please give me a link.

[LearjetMinako]

Hi, I wanted to know if there are any on-road tires for the b4. If there are any can you please give me a link.

As far as I know, there isn't a set designed specifically for on-road. The Pro-line dirt-hawgs are probably the best for on-road without changing the rims spec. To get true on-road tires, the rims will most likely need to be retofitted from another R/C car.

[fishymamba]

I got a pair of the dirt hawgs and they work perfectly! Pro-line should change the name to "road-hogs"

[RespirologyRC]

Hi guys i just painted my first B4 body. This is a JC body and it was pretty smooth. I'm telling you now; JC have the best bodies! Either way, this is going to my track owner over at www.rcexcitement.com He's an awsome guy and has an awsome indoor dirt track.

[fishymamba]

Awesome body man! you should put that in the best paint competition!

[Mini-TBasher55]

I got a pair of the dirt hawgs and they work perfectly! Pro-line should change the name to "road-hogs"

They had buggy Road Rages a while back, I still have a pair-great tires, perfect street only tread.

[jasonw]

Any tips on the handling? Anyone els have problems with 0 traction in the rear? Mine is still bone stock. I have been driving R/C cars on and off for several years and have never had one that was this bad. I set it up according to the included recommendations for the best rear traction but it still spins out on every corner.

[JeffEmbracedDC]

Any tips on the handling? Anyone els have problems with 0 traction in the rear? Mine is still bone stock. I have been driving R/C cars on and off for several years and have never had one that was this bad. I set it up according to the included recommendations for the best rear traction but it still spins out on every corner.

Sounds like you have a problem for sure. However - setup problems are not always what they seem. It may seem that you have NO rear traction around corners when the problem is actually far TOO MUCH traction in the FRONT.

Best thing to do is just copy another drivers setup that is having "success" at your track. Assuming you're not the only B4 on the track - ask another driver. Unless they're full of themselves they will usually freely share their setup. If you ARE the only B4...

What track surface are you on? (dry, wet, dusty, loose/loamy, hard packed, soft, etc)
What tires are you running and are they in good condition?

I would check and adjust if necessary the following things in order:
1. Rear tires (incorrect pattern for track, warn out rubber, disintegrated foam)
2. Springs and shock angle (front too soft/rear too hard. Try standing up the front shocks and/or lay rear shocks down)
3. Weight distribution (too much in front, not enough in rear. Shift batteries backwards, add weights if necessary)
4. Rear camber links (incorrect camber adjustment, or links too short. Longer links usually give better side-bite when cornering.)

There are other things that can affect rear traction but those are the things I would check first.

-Jeff

[jasonw]

I will look into the shock placement in the front. As far as the battery position I never understood that one. I don't know maybe its the batteries I got but there is no way to move them. There is a mention in the manual about battery placement but I have no room front or back to move the battery. As far as other set ups I am afraid I am on my own. I don't know anyone ells around that is into R/C. Normally in the summer its very loose dusty dirt and in the winter it gets packed pretty hard. My tires are what ever came on the car stock and still have great tread on them. I got out of R/C a few years back and this was my first venture back into it. Its really turning me off though. I mean like I said this car is bone stock with 2000ma batteries and I just cant control it. At half throttle going strait I can nail it and it just spins in circles. Not much fun when you cant hardly control them.

[Kden46]

jasonw maybe try loosening the slipper and/or diff?

Or add rear toe-in?

Another option would be trying a different tire?

B4 was not really meant to be a basher.

I run my B4 on a hard packed dirt track with a little bit of loose dirt on the top. It is a real struggle to get traction and keep the buggy going where I want it to. But my setup seems to work for me.

35 wt. oil front and rear, stock springs front and rear, front ride height arms a little above level and rear ride height with cvd's a little above level. Tires are Front Pro-Line wide ribs and Rear is Losi Step Pins (silver)

Slipper is set at the stock setting with the diff on the tight side. Running a Mamba Max 5700kv on 2S LiPo with 16t pinion on stock spur.

I am no expert but this setup works for me on our track.

[jasonw]

Hmmm stupid me never thought of adjusting the slipper. I bet that would make all the difference. See what happens when they hide it? I am not very comfortable with diffs so I will leave that one alone.

[timie1]

When I first got my B4 it was sliding all over the place. I had come from a 4wd car, so I had trouble keeping it going straight, both offroad and on concrete. The stock rear tires are pretty useless if you ask me. I got some proline dirt hawgs and it made all the difference. Now I'm used to how it handles, I'm really happy with mine. Mine is virtually all stock. The only thing changed is take some rear anti-squat out, and on all suspension arms I have the outside mounting position used for all shocks (lower mounting position). Also, I think what made the biggest improvement was adjusting the rear camber. It is set to about +2°. This made the rear tires have a much wider contact patch, so on concrete it really is much better, and the tires wear evenly, so they last longer too. to be honest, it doesn't look "right", the wheels look far too angled, but they're not. The rear has so much more grip.

I'm running a MM 5700 with EP4600 nimh and it handles really well.

[30percent]

Interesting, seems a bit of a mixed bag.

I remember reading a while ago that the factory drivers don't even use the chassis that comes with the factory team kit, any idea if that is true?

Thats the case out here in CO. They use the stock plastic chassis. Gives more flex and durability. It's a little heavier, but if you are running Lipo's it helps balance out the weight loss from the battery. (less weights added).

Same goes for arms and shock towers. when they broke the carbon factory team, they replace with stock plastic.

[jasonw]

Do those tires fit on ok with the wing? I was looking at new tires on tower hobbies website and wanted those but after reading the dementions and using common sence looking at my buggy it seems those tires will rub on the wing when the rear suspension is compressed. I had those tires on an old HPI RS4MT I had so I know they are awesome tires.



When I first got my B4 it was sliding all over the place. I had come from a 4wd car, so I had trouble keeping it going straight, both offroad and on concrete. The stock rear tires are pretty useless if you ask me. I got some proline dirt hawgs and it made all the difference. Now I'm used to how it handles, I'm really happy with mine. Mine is virtually all stock. The only thing changed is take some rear anti-squat out, and on all suspension arms I have the outside mounting position used for all shocks (lower mounting position). Also, I think what made the biggest improvement was adjusting the rear camber. It is set to about +2°. This made the rear tires have a much wider contact patch, so on concrete it really is much better, and the tires wear evenly, so they last longer too. to be honest, it doesn't look "right", the wheels look far too angled, but they're not. The rear has so much more grip.

I'm running a MM 5700 with EP4600 nimh and it handles really well.

[JR007]

I play on a super loose dusty track, and setting up the b4 for it is a nightmare.

The biggest consideration is the slipper. I have it so loose it's almost falling off!

Also, have zero anti squat. On loose dusty bumpy tracks, it works best. Not sure qhy, because it goes against what it shoud do!

My set-up is:

Front:
Shocks brown
35 wt oil
Top centre position
Bottom outside position
About -1 degree camber
Rod A-1

Rear:
Shocks green
25 wt oil
Top inside
Bottom inside
Rod B-1

Ride height:
Rear bones level
Front slightly below rear

Give it a go :)

[JR007]

Forgot. Proline Holeshot M3's are the best in dust

[LearjetMinako]

I play on a super loose dusty track, and setting up the b4 for it is a nightmare.

The biggest consideration is the slipper. I have it so loose it's almost falling off!

Also, have zero anti squat. On loose dusty bumpy tracks, it works best. Not sure qhy, because it goes against what it shoud do!


If the track soil is loose where you can pick it up, try using Pro-line Bow-Tie tires in the rear and ribs in the front. If the track is dusty (like blue groove), try using Pro-line Inside Job on the Front and Rear (which I run).

[JR007]

:) This is anything BUT blue groove :)

Loose dirt, exposed rocks all around the track from those beastly Nitro's, you name it!

Really good for learning throttle control though!

[LearjetMinako]

Sounds like fun. The LHS is blue groove oval. Very fast, and very competitive. I run the break-out class. Any vehicle can run, just can't be faster than 8secs. The goal is to get as many laps with the lowest average lap time (not under 8secs).

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff165/LearjetMinako/06-01-08_1554-1.jpg

Since it is winter time. We stopped outdoor racing and now I'm racing indoors with touring cars. Trying to get my TC4 to hookup better.

[Thomas P]

This is my new 09 season 2wd racecar, it´s the AtomicCarbon S2 SWB , a carbonfibertube chassi conversion for the AE RC10B4, enjoy!

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/S2%20SWB/DSC_0093.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/S2%20SWB/DSC_0097.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o306/gabbax_74/S2%20SWB/DSC_0098.jpg

ANy Q´s just ask.

/T

[Scottie]

I Just bought a Ued Factory Team B4 and I Have a Ezrun 35A 4300 Brushless in it with a 23 T Pinion does anyone know what the gear ratio would be for that?

[Alejo81]

any body have any idea of how to assemble a rc10 b3 diff. I got everything the way the explode view show it. I have trouble when am putting the left and right diff together. I can not get the diff spring to compress so I can get the T-nut to reach the 2-56 diff bolt if any one can help me with this please..

[lscrisp]

Okay, not sure if the is the correct forum to ask this, but it's the closest that I could find. :D

I have B4.1 that I bought this morning and debated between the T4.1 and the B4.1. Our tracks sometimes run the truck and other times the buggies are run on any given night.

My question is, what would it take to change the buggy to the truck? I looked at both of them before I made my buy and the only thing that I could see was that the truck's chassis was a bit longer, but everything else looked identical. I just wonder, if I showed up with my buggy and they decided to run trucks that night, if it would be something that could be converted quickly, or does it entail a total disassembly?

Thanks,
Scott

[muscle car]

nah, pudder likes those rpm PURPLE parts.... :D LoL
does anybody know about the rc10t because i have one just want to know more about it

[lscrisp]

I have had some time to run my B4.1 and really love the way it handles right out of the box. The only thing that I did was to lower it a bit and change the steering servo The original had the gears strip on a crash). I have a slower servo now and it make it a bit less twitchy.

Now that I've run it, I'm looking to upgrade a little at a time and would like to know what you guys think would be the best thing to go with first? It's the brushless RTR, so doing a motor right now is probably not what I'm looking for.