Last Call--LiteStik Modifications

[Cook]

Here I go--I am setting out to build the WattAge LiteStik. Before I begin construction, I want to gather all the information reguarding recommended modifications to the model. I understand that adding dehidral is a good idea to increase rudder efficiency. Are there any other things that would make this model more agile or otherwise a better flyer? I am not looking to kit-bash completely here (I love that P-51 Mustang conversion :D), but some changes would be nice. Even suggestions regarding batteries and other gear is okay. Thanks a bunch in advance; I am really looking forward to this!!! :cool:

[pease1]

Toss out all the black plastic bits that come with the kit. Glue your servos directly to the stick after wrapping them with tape (for removal later).

Affix the RX and ESC to the fuse with servo tape. Attach the battery with velcro or elastic bands. Leave off the rubber spinner and O-ring tires. If you have a bit of scrap CF around replace the wire tailskid with some.

All of this will save you precious weight which will make the stik more agile.

Some people use pull-pull controlls as well.

Oh, 'barn door' the control surfaces. Cut them off and re-attach with tape so they swing freely.

Have fun - it's a decent flier even stock out of the box. Lighten it up and it goes even better.

Al

[Jason Nowell]

Cook:

I agree with Allan as usual :) but I think the rubber spinner might be a good idea. If you leave that off, you are flying around with a 1/8" metal screw coming at you almost a full inch out from the propeller. I fly mostly indoors with spectators, so this is an issue for me. If you're flying alone outside, then it's just YOUR head you have to worry about :)

Weight is very important to Lite Sticks, and the plastic just breaks after some wear and tear. I actually build mine so that everything is either on foam tape, or velcro'd on. The battery should always be velcro'd so that it flies off in the event of a crash. The airframe will survive much longer if it doesn't have to absord the weight/shock of the battery.

The dihedral is a MUST also. The airplane turns 100% better with it. Lite Sticks have a tendancy to fly in strange places. I live about 6 miles from the nearest RC flying feild, so i fly in my apartment parking lot, my office parking lot, etc. Many of these places require turns that cannot be made in the stock dihedral configuration.

You might want to look at Gabe Batallion's lite Stick Modification page also. It's on www.nyblimp.com (http://www.nyblimp.com)

As for gear, GWS reciever (Pico is fine for outdoors, I'd go with a 555 dual conversion for indoors though) One place to save weight and money is by going to Sanyo 9V NiCad batteries. You can pick them up at Fry's Electronics (or similar) for $6.95. They are 6 cell 120mAh packs and work great on Lite Sticks and weigh half of a 270mAh pack (standard).

Hope that helps and good luck. You'll have a blast!

[ 06-01-2001: Message edited by: Jason Nowell ]