Kyosho Kanai Edition III competition buggy

[dgrobe2112]

OSGT.. yeah.. the track was rough.. wish i had the K3 rear shocks.. cuz my rear end bounced around alot on the track this weekend.. especially coming over the loop onto the straight.. really rough there...

[-=$LY=-]

Could you K3 expers please pop over the the MP7.5 Sports thread, as i need some of your help, you might find my post interesting and test your knowlage of the K3 please look here! (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1488128#post1488128)

[purplerides]

dgrobe - i have a ws7II and run the fioroni turbo slider , this clutch rocks , i shorten up 2 of the springs aprox. 1/4" and leave the third at regular length , the thing i like most about this clutch is it last a long time and is almost maint. free , compared to the three shoe clutches , since i've been useing this clutch i haven't had any clutch bearing issues either.

on the K-3 shocks i have pulled the shock ends off a couple of times , i thinking of trying to put the droop screws in and setting them just so they touch prior to the shock hitting full extention , i'm thinking all the weight of the arm, tire, etc. is pulling the shock end off.

[dgrobe2112]

heard the turbo slider is good.. so you can cut the springs off some.. to make them tighter?? hmm.. may have to get one just to try it..

yeah.. i have to do that on my current rear shocks.. cuz my shocks hit full extension before the arms hit the chassis.. so i used the droop screws for that..

[KyoshoKev]

hi peeples


i was wondering if the mugen 3.5mm shock shafts will fit/good the kanai3 shocks?
http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_2_254&products_id=4537

http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_2_254&products_id=4538

i cant seem to find the kanai shafts...

[OldskoolGT]

Kev,

The rear shaft # is IFW149, the front is IFW140. Tower has both in stock.

Mugen shafts will work also, but I think the rear shafts would be a few mm short. I also think Kyosho makes the strongest shock shafts. Its best to stick the least amount of Mugen parts on your Kyosho car. :)

[KyoshoKev]

i look on tower... they are

3.5mmx61 and
3.5mmx53


on the tower website it says its for the K2 ...

but i got the K3 Shocks... i thought the K3 shock shaft were longer (see posts on page 20)

[OldskoolGT]

try here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEWP9&P=7)


Tower's site says 63 mm.

[KyoshoKev]

thnks mate. ifw149-02


and ifw149 is the complete rear shock set

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXEWP7&P=V


too easy :cool:

[KyoshoKev]

does anyone know what degree steering hub comes with the K3 front end?

coz i just bought a complete front end off ebay.. but it doesnt specify, is it 22deg?

p.s what degree does most people run? and what difference does going from 17deg to 20deg to 22deg do?

thanks

kev

[atm92484_3]

The K3s include both the 20 and 22 degree c-hubs. Personally, I like the 20 degree hubs with the B blocks. I feel either/or the 22 degree hubs and the A blocks cause the car to push too much; it basically comes down to driver preference.

[KyoshoKev]

what are B Blocks and A blocks :o

does B block refer to 20deg and A block refer to 22deg's? :cool:

sorry i'm new to all this :confused:

[dgrobe2112]

the b and A blocks are the blocks that go on the inside of the front diff.. the upper and lower.. the B blocks are the prefered ones..

[KyoshoKev]

i still dont understand... u got part numbers so i can look at the pic... thanks

[OldskoolGT]

On the front end, the A and B blocks are the hingepin holders at the back of the bulkhead (right above and below where driveshaft goes into the bulkhead).

[uaerc]

K3 Update.....

I took out the K3 to a local track today, they dont have many jumps and straights but it was just a try out. What should I say...I was speechless and so overwhelmd with the performance of this piece of art. It corners really well. Its tremendously stable. Jumps are so good that I landed almost straight every time.

I have a OS VZB on my car, surprisingly to the other two guys with the Kanai edition Sirio engines, I was faster then them with a 25% nitro cool power fuel comapred to 30% nitro on theirs. Later on they said they were both RICH. But then they engine was difficult to tune may b coz of the climate here. But as for me OS stole the show very stable and cool and the best. They kept restarting after every tank of fuel and I had driven 2 tanks without quiting.

I had battery problems later on so i had to quit. Just got NIMH - energizers' gonna make a 6V battery pack AAA size.. its fits perfect. 5 AAA's in a hump pack.

Oh yeah...... some of the guys wanted to race their Hyper 7 or Hobao one of these for sure. with me but i didnt make the track so he raced my partner who has a k3 with sirio K ed. engine. Result. Hyper 7 guy couldnt get out of a jump without a tumble. I think it was a really off bal. car.. since i just heard and didnt see.. but hey....we got one more guy to buy a K3 lol !!

Race : a race will be held here in two weeks will go and participate. Update on that later./

Regards
Aziz

[dgrobe2112]

kyoshokev.. the upper front arm.. has a hinge pin on the inside that goes through the shock tower.. it connects at the shock tower.. and on the inside of the buggy.. you will see the upper block..

down on the lower arm.. where the lower front arm connects to the chassis with a hinge pin.. you cant see the front.. cuz the bumper covers it.. but on the inside where the inside e clip holds the hingepin.. that is the lower clock

[Bashari]

Hey guys,
I just got the Kyosho Kanai 3 kit. It wasn't as bad as I thought as far as the building process was concerned. Yeah, yeah, yeah, I'm a total newbie to the sport of R/C's, so I really don't know much about the technical aspects of the car. I can say this though it moves exceptionally well compared to the first buggy I got which was the Kyosho sport 7.5 RTR. One does have to pay close attention to screw fittings though, because they all pretty much looked the same to me! Outside of that I'm in the process of painting the body. Yeah, I know that I could have settled for a cheaper buggy. But there is nothing like having the best at your disposal. It's like buying a Hummer. Of course who are we kidding like we are going to be traversing cliffs and huge boulders in the wilds of Africa with our ridiculously huge ground clearance that is the Hummer. On a realistic standpoint...I would never subject my Hummer to that kind of abuse, but it is nice to know that it is more than capable of handling such terrain. And hey! That's all we want right? Great handling at our disposal...just in case.

[KyoshoKev]

howdy,

does anyone here have probs with the g-clip being pushed out buy the o-rings? it has happened to me about 3 time, all on the same shock (front) after about 20minutes of running.

what may be the problem? could overfilling the shock cause this? or more likely a faulty g-clip.

this known problem with the K3 shocks? :(

cheers

[atm92484_3]

I've never had that happen, but overfilling may create enough pressure to blow the seals out. You may want to try some new clips just incase the old ones are worn out.

Bash, congrats on the kit. What engine, ehaust, radio, and servos did you go with?

[OldskoolGT]

I've never had a g-clip come loose on any of my Kyoshos. Maybe there is a burr or something on the shock body that prevents the clip from being fully seated.

[RCfan1990]

that oldskoolGT is right

[RCfan1990]

yes thats is good

[dgrobe2112]

Hey guys.. thinkin of sellin my K car.. since the racing season is over.. i want to get the 777 for next season.. got all the racers edge.. and everything.. lots of spare parts.. lots of hopups.. k3 chassis.. fioroni rear squat plate set.. K3 steering, almost all k3 except for the rear shocks.. selling roller with no electronics.. also may include a WS7II motor with it as well.. if yall are interested.. email me.. i got tons of pics.. the car is in great shape.. got anough spare parts.. to make another buggy..minus extra shocks.. and diffs.. and dogbones.. but enough spare arms.. diff housings, pinion gears, hingepins, stuff like that..

Email me for pics.. at dgrobe2112@netzero.com i will also give you more info about it

[KanaiDude]

:eek: racing season is over?? we are just getting warmed up around my parts, with no end in sight till maybe late november-January, then I'll just drive a few hours to SC or GA and take it up there. I am hoping my new mill will arrive today, i gotta get it hooked up there is so much trash talking about my next club race I can hardly stand it!

[dgrobe2112]

well, my big racing.. we dont have many more big races coming up.. couple more.. but i am really wanting to get the 777... just wondering.. weather to get the special 1 or the standard kit.. 420, versus 685..

[Little_Horn]

If you have the money, go for the special one. Shock towers are stronger, with more holes in them (so, you have more configuration options), with counter sunk screws (the standard towers have standard holes and std. screws), lightned crown gear, universals all around, larger (in capacity) shock bodies with blue springs, stronger chassis, 20 and 22 degrees C-hubs, you can adjust toe (in/out) and camber without removing any screws, antena holder, etc, etc, etc.
In case you are wondering about those shafts with the e-clips, the kits used (ie: k-factory) in the mp 7.5 will do if you happen to have 2 of them arround. I only know that one of the shafts is different in length, and because of that you have to use a similar shaft from one place in another (I hope I made myself clear on this...). That's why you need 2. There's not any titanium screws.
One warning, the mp777 chassis is smaller than the mp7.5 (I think 40 mm), and masses are more in the center. The car is a little more agressive in the turns. You have to find a different setup for it. It's a completelly different car.
If your were a newby like me (my first 1/8tt is a mp777) you wouldn't know the difference...

[KanaiDude]

scratch that itch... SPECIAL 1 !

[OldskoolGT]

I think the regular kit would be the way to go *if* you can buy the good shocks (I think the new rear shocks are even longer than K3's).

Seems like you could equip a regular 777 with titanium turnbuckles, rear uni's, and aftermarket shock towers for around the same price as a SP1.

[KanaiDude]

Hey DG I got my motor, what fuel are you running, they recomend 20% but i have like 7 quarts of 30% odonnel left, I am thinking I should just use 20 though.

[uaerc]

I just got a Futaba 3 pk with the 203 HRS RX (blk ver.) This is a great radio with so many features, wonder if anyone knows or has some setups for this radio for the K3.

If you do please share all the different setups like the ABS - throttle speed - throttle curves - steering D/r = expo etc etc.

Regards
zooz

[uaerc]

Hi

I was racing last evening and suddenly the K3 just stopped and it wouldnt move forward. The front and the rear diff's seems ok as they have movement in them, but when the car is on the ground and I push it forward its just seem to be stuck, thought that it was the brakes but no its not that. Then tried to move it backward which is fine,

Has this happened to anyone of you guys ? was wondering if this was due to the centre diff's gone bad, will do a major service on this car tonight.

Just a quick recall. I will be opening the diff's so will change the oil aswell, currently I have 50 wt 70wt and 80 wt. which one is the ideal for the centre diff.

Regards
zooz.

[colinradford]

I would check the clutch, sounds like it has seized.

[Little_Horn]

If you have a 3 shoes aluminium cluch, it might be the cluch.

Aluminium cluches are very good, but require a little maintenance.
You need to sand the edges of the pieces, so the cluch doesn't bind to the bell.
When you're racing/bashing, the cluch starts to wear. The edges become more "pointy", and the cluch doesn't desengage from the bell.
If this is the problem, just sand it, and it will be allright.

[dgrobe2112]

yep.. they beat me too it.. it is definitly your clutch.. a way to check it.. is to try to turn your spur gear.... if you got a starter box.. put your car on the starter box.. spin the mtoor.. and if the wheels turn at the same time.. then your clutch is messed up.. as far as diff goes.. i run 7K in the center.. 3k in the front and 1k in the rear.. that is pretty good for that.. i run 2 degree toe block in the rear..

[uaerc]

hi guys

OK, really strange this is. as I had said the car just got stuck and engine died oout. When I cleaned it last night I just sprayed a good lot of WD 40 on it and it just started moving again. Also I gave to my friend to check it up, as he was doing a major overhaul on his K3 he discovered that all his ball bearings are shot !!!! and he has only done like 2 gallons of fuel on his car!! is this normal bearings problem or is there something wrong with the setup ? what could this be.

I will ask him to check the clutch out aswell. I am looknig for the bearings now, he said I might have to replace the bearings in my K3 aswell!! :confused: dont know for sure as I have not played asmuch as he has. When he opens it up we will find out.

He said he removed his bearings and put them in thinner and later oiled them with bearing oil still its not so good gets stuck !! so better choice is to buy a new set.

Regards
zooz

[dgrobe2112]

depends on how he cleans the car.. and all that.. maintenence is the key with these cars.. if you get dirt and stuff in your bearings..or run them in the mud.. and all that. and dont clean the car.. then yeah.. bearings would be problem.. but if you do maintenence.. and clean the car regularly.. then yo ushould have no problems with the bearings.. if you are lookin for replacements.. go to www.avidrc.com and they will sell you a whole kit for like 20 bux

[uaerc]

Well Since we have made a track just outside his house and he has a full blown Jet assembling workshop (he builds Rc jets) he has all the tools and accessories to clean them like the air compressor etc. We clean the car with air pressure after every run. top it up with wd 40 and re apply air on it. this way it comes out sparkling clean. I asked around here as well ppl are of the opinion that usually the bearing do get shot since we run in dry dirt which is hot. 40+ C temps.

I checked out a local store here who sells bearings only he has to confirm whether they stock 8*16*5mm bearings. if they do then i would be a happy man !!
as they sell a beearing for less 50cents..

Cheers
zooz

[dgrobe2112]

50 cents a bearing is cheap..

[uaerc]

1USD = 3.658 AED. the bearings I bought last night are only 1 AED metal sealed. These are similar to the ones used in the K3 Diffs. I bought a pack of 60 bearings for like 16.5 USD !! There are also teflon bearings which are bit on the higher side. Which I will buy the next time.

If anyone has noticed!! that the bearings in the wheels and diffs are different of quality. Obvisously the cheaper quality is used in the wheels and the better ones in the diffs. Last night I replaced the 8 bearings in the wheels and to my surprise all the bearings were actually stuck !! rusted !! and this is only 1 gallon on my car!! I guess probably coz the track is close to the beach the sand has a high level of salt and moisture.

Well not to worry since I found these bearings I can replace every month.:) The bearings in the diffs were ok I just opened the centre diff and they seemed ok so I just replaced them, since i opened it already. changed the diff oil aswell to the stock 4000. The oil is over since it was a pretty small quantity.

Problem : we dont have the oil 4000 in stock here only 6000 and 7000. Now can one of these be used in the centre, or how can the 6000 be made to a equivalent of 4000 by diluting it, I think it can be mixed with a lighter fluid like 500 or something but in what parts ? how to calculate this ?! and also what is the best replacement for the TCD OIL !! since this is not available here aswell :(


Little horn

answering to the earlier problem it was not the clutch its seemed fine I did that test and the flywheel moved freely. I think its something else I have changed the oil and bearings now will fix and fly again lets find out if it was just stuck or what !?

Regards
zooz

[Buggy Master]

uaerc,

go to ge silicones:

http://www.gesilicones.com/silicones/americas/business/portfolio/fluids/wizards/default.shtml?SMSESSION=NO

use fluid blender to calculate different weights. but in my opinion, its not necessary. 5k/7k/1k is a good base setup.

as for the lsd oil, i use redline shock proof gear oil. the red one is the heaviest weight. you can purchase it at automotive stores.

[KanaiDude]

Stick with 5/7/1 like uaerc said, it is the best setup for intermediate to advanced drivers, some fast guys use 5/7/3 the rear end is a little squirlier but has more power.

[uaerc]

Stick with 5/7/1 like uaerc said, it is the best setup for intermediate to advanced drivers, some fast guys use 5/7/3 the rear end is a little squirlier but has more power.

Hi

Since i am running a K3, my setup is the TCD / 4 / 1 , correct me if i am wrong but I dont think the TCD red oil has any diff wt nos it just comes in one wt ??.

Next time I would try to go with the 6k in the centre and 3k in the back to just see how it works, but since the TCD cant be played with I wonder would it have any adverse effects in handling?

zooz

[Little_Horn]

There's a black TCD oil. One of them is thicker, and makes the gears "engage" sooner. I don't know each one, tough.
The 6k in the centre are ok (maybe 7k?), but 3k in back might be too much. The car will be much harder to control on acceleration, specially coming out of a turn. The back will drift alot more.
But if you can control it, it will give you tremendous power coming out of a turn.

[KanaiDude]

I ran the red oil up front in a TCD (red=thicker higher weight, black=thinner lower weight) and after like 5 races I was noticing that the car was a little twitchy when the track rutted out, the TCD has a few issues IMO. I switched back to a stock diff up front running 5/7/1 and was so much happier. You can play with the setup but most all guys run 5/7/1 and then like i said 5/7/3 will give you more rear power but a little harder to control just like Little Horn said.

[dgrobe2112]

i tried 5/7/1, 3/7/1, 5/10/1, and my favorite was 3/7/1, works the best for me.. got rid of the on power push i had, still had a hint of on power push.. but it was alot better.

red, and black oil are available for the LSD dif.. i heard you can get a quart of gear oil, from autozone.. 75-140 is similar to the red.. dont know what the black is..

[Little_Horn]

...I was noticing that the car was a little twitchy when the track rutted out, the TCD has a few issues IMO...

I heard that also. The TCD (or LSD. They are the same...) is better for smother tracks. Maybe that's because of the TCD diffs. nature. Thae gears are suposed to "block" in certain condition, and maybe it's because of that, that a standard diff is better for rough conditions (better control).

What I'm surprised to see is that no one (at least that I know) uses a central TCD. In my country, I know that 2 kyosho guys (one is the former european champion ans still national champion; the other is the LHS guy where I buy my stuff. He's a top 10 racer) at least use it.

If someone is looking for some more power out of turns, instead of increasing the "hardness" of the oil in the rear diff., try to use a central diff. That will give a more equal power distribution to both axes (front and rear).

P.S.: In this entire post, I'm reffering to only using a centre TCD. Front and Rear are standard.

[dgrobe2112]

so.. use a center LSD diff?? hmm.. never thought of that.. what oil.. red?? or black??

[Little_Horn]

To be honnest, I really don't know, but I think the red one is what most people use, right?

[dgrobe2112]

hmm.. the red is thicker than the black.. so i would assume that would be the one.. i beleive on the Kanai 1, it came with 2 LSD diffs.. if im not mistaken.. they had 2 different bottles.. black and red.. the black was for the rear.. and the red was for the front..

[OldskoolGT]

In the USA using a TCD in the center doesn't work very well because it creates a lot of understeer. The tracks here are smaller and tighter compared to the European tracks.

[Little_Horn]

Maybe that's because of that!
That's logic, considering that a central LSD tends to push more the car.

[uaerc]

the OS VZ B V - SPec is making an uproar, i just read another forum and some ppl claimed it to be 2.95 hp ? I mean thats outragueous powere....... one guy said that it blew up his diff on his buggy is this all so true........ VZ B poweeeeers my K3 and its totaally amazing I think I will switch it with the V spec if its that good ! :)

what u guys have to say.......

zooz

[Little_Horn]

Os engine allways were powerfull. The OS V-Spec must be no exception.
I don't know about this one, but usually, Os engine had a small problem about durabillity, didn't they?
I think that's due to the making process.
I really don't know if they modiffied the making process for this one, so I guess this is kind of a question also(???).
If they did, the engine will last a long time, if they didn't, I wouldn't buy it (it will wear out quickly).

[dgrobe2112]

no.. the only durability was with the VZ B motor.. OS changed the materia used fr the piston.. make it harder.. and it wore out the sleeve after a gallon.. now the V-Spec.. i heard they fixed that problem.. the VZ-B motor is a screamer.. if this V-spec is anything like that one... it will be awsome..

[Little_Horn]

I've spoken to my LHS guy and he told me that the only thing about the V-Spec is that you must use 16% oil fuel. Lower than that, and you will wear out the engine very quickly.

[Little_Horn]

About the TCD (center) diff oil. I confirmed that it is red.

[dgrobe2112]

so.. not 20%, or 30%??

[Little_Horn]

The engine can use more oil content. But, if you use more oil, you'll have less fuel to burn=less power per engine stroke. So 16% oil, is the best.

[uaerc]

Hi

I am just waiting for the engine to arrive here, then i will sell the vz b and switch with te V spec.....there is a thread on the Latest news..forum.

Regards
zooz

[uaerc]

latest news on my K3.

I just found out that the part no. FW 112 aka Rear torque rod set, the Two ball ends
made out of plastic (black) are bent, my LHS dont stock this part. How do I replace them or how do you repair these ?

Anyone ?

Regards
ZooZ

[Little_Horn]

Well. I don't think you should even try to repair them. If they are bent, the plastic might be a little softer, and if you bend them back, the plastic might become even softer. You can try it and see if it works. I have no personnal experience on this subject, but that's what logic tells to me. Try to bend it back. If the plastic shows no signs of being forced, then you might be ok.
But the best would be to buy new ones.
Try the usual online stores. Those should not be too expensice. After all, they are just a couple of plastic pieces...

[KanaiDude]

If you are using a high end motor I highly suggest picking up some good braces, fioroni, racers edge or even some machined ones on ebay. The braces are very important and act as a buffer for your motor, clutchbell, and center diff, if the buggy is repeatedly bending even the slightest bit where the braces are you are risking the clutchbell not meshing correctly with the center diff, causing premature bearing wear JM2Cents.

[Little_Horn]

My LHS guy is a top 10 pilot (in my country) and he uses the stock braces. I'm not sure, but I think our national champion (previous european champion, and now competing in the worlds) also uses stock.
Stock chassis brasses give the kind of strongness that you need.
Everything needs a little ellasticity. If something is too rigid it will brake, or will pass all the energy to other pieces, that are less strong and they will brake.
You don't need a ultra rigid chassis. You need a chassis that doesn't bend.
The kyosho braces are very good at that. They don't let your chassis bend, but they give a very small amount of ellasticity, that helps absorbing impact energy.

[KanaiDude]

I think it is also a matter of preference, I find it easier to keep aftermarket braces tightened down, you don't have to worry about the plastice breaking, bending etc. there is just one connection point.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. i agree.. while Kanai.. and those guys use the stock chassis braces.. how often do they wreck like me.. i would rather have that assurance that i know my more rigin chassis braces.. are on there..

[uaerc]

Since I cant get stuff from Ebay ( not from US) therefore I think i would have to stick to the stock ones... just waiting for them to come here at the LHS. Though i just bribed one of the workers here to get me some spares jsut the black 4mm plastic parts. lets hope he gets them -- I can still run though.....as they are not in bad shape.

ZooZ

[Little_Horn]

ROTFL, you bribed him??? :D :D :D :D :D Sorry, but that is the funniest thing I ever read on thid board! ;)

[uaerc]

LoL..... considering the fact that they have 3 security guards at the LHS who searches every staff leaving the workshop. I do have to bribe him for a few drinks. SAD but its a fact !!

But it did the trick aswell .... I got a Super air cleaner, TCD gear oil 2 bottles
a body for the K3 for like 10$ and those parts that i needed !! :) :p

PS: this is the biggest hobby store for the gulf. They are Dealers for OS - KYOSHO - Hirobo - Tamiya - JR - Futaba and most of the major brands

Cheers
ZooZ

[KyoshoKev]

does anyone here have problem of the gas tank vibrating and creating alot of bubbles in the tank? i tried the fuel tube on the poles already.

p.s i have the sports version. so i dont have the fuel splash guard. otherwise maybe i can put a foam between the fuel guard and the tank.

anything else i can do?


cheers

[dgrobe2112]

All gas tanks will vibrate.. you could possibly try a little o-ring.. orange ones.. underneath the mounts.. but.. you are gonna get vibrations no matter what..

[Little_Horn]

One thing I can tell you, the gas tank is suposed to be loose. I had mine somewhat tight and the LHS guy (by the way, he is a top 10 racer) told me to unscrew it a little, so it would become more loose.
Is your tank loose? Don't overtigh it.
If you have a overtight tank, it will not absorve the vibrations from the terrain.
Loose it so it will work more or less like a shock, to absorve vibrations.
Also, some bubbles along the fuel line are normal. But too many is bad.
Is your tank sealed correctly? Is the lid ok? Does your tank have a leak (fuel or air)?

[KyoshoKev]

the tank doesnt leak as far as i know, i turn upside down and nothing comes out.

my screw actually doesn't "lock" it just keeps on turning when you try to tighten it, so it is pretty loose.

p.s can i fit a fule splash guard on my sports version? i think the k3 has a splash guard. i dont see any holes in the chasis for it. and my fuel tank doesnt leave any space for it. is my sports fuel tank bigger than the k3 tank?

i just got a small splash guard one that covers the brake pads.

[OldskoolGT]

The splash guard mounts to the center diff, so yes, you can mount the big splash guard on a sports.

[KyoshoKev]

kool thanks.

also, the track i run at is very rough and gutted .... when i turn my car tends to flip sideways.... also sometimes when i brake it does a "stoppie" i.e the rear tires lift off the ground, my brakes are not on hard at all,

on concrete to come to a full stop it takes about 1 foot for it to stop, when i push the car with my hand, and it doesnt lock tires.


what should i do to the suspension?

i am running 40wt/1.4mm pistons all round and kyosho blue springs and about 9mm spacers front and 7mm spacers rear.

should i

1. increase/decrease spacers
2. change to thicker/thinner shock oil
3. goto different spring rates.

thx

[Little_Horn]

I think you should start by doing 2 things.

1 - use thicker oil in front. Between 575 and 600 cps (575 = 50wt). The nose will not get deep so easilly, and it will help you alot during jumps. Try different combinations if you like but remember, you should use thicker oil in front (compared to the rear).

2 - adjust your brake bias, so it brakes more with the rear. Play with it, and find what's best for you. Many ppl like the car to drift just a little, because that helps entering a corner (turning).

The order doen't matter. IMO, both things are equally important.

I adjust spacers so that the chassis is just a little higher than the lower arms.
The method I use to check this: drop the car from a very low altitude, so that the shocks work a little, and check the height. Of course, if you put the car without doing this, the chassis will sit higher... You don't want the chassis to be too high (high center of gravity, car tends to flip) or too low (the chassis will constantly scrape the floor and drag over it, making you loose time).

[uaerc]

Hi Guys......

Good news was racing with the guys today had a total of 6 cars on track. 3 K3 part of my team members but we race individually today... 1 MBX Pro...... 1 Hyper 7..... 1 Mugen old one. well we race for like one tank at a time at our track. I was leading all the time but the later I had engine problems didnt know what it was engine would suddenly behave as its lean and bog down and cut off tried for quite some time but didnt work.......lost the lead and did a total of 7 laps tried agian after restart and almost completed the 8th fuel was out.

1. OS VZ B P uses up more fuel then the SIRIO Kanai engine is this true ?
2. Car handled good but since we changed the front oil to 50 and rear oil to 80 the handling was not as good as 500 Kyosho oil all around. the previous oil was much softer and handled well a sharp turn was handled with ease. with the 50/80 combination while jumping we were landing upside down most of the time even while those sharp turns all three of us were just cartwheeling.......I felt it at that time it was the oil.....and reading this earlier post confirmed it. the QS ? one of my freinds helped me setup my V one rr and he put soft springs with 25wt oil in rear and hard medium springs with 15 wt oil in front. Now you can see the contrast !! Thats why we tried something similar and did 80 oil in back and 50 oil in front which was not so great in handling...... I will work with 30 in rear and 50 in front to check out the difference now. with more shims in front.
3. The engine bogged down a lot.(behaves as lean while full throttle) Changed the plug yesterday could that be the problem ? or bad fuel tube ? or jammed fuel filter.. BTW i run two fuel filters in the car for extra protection one goes from below the tuned pipe...... all the three k3's using the same and they are fine.
4. How can we use more of the rear brakes and less of the front how well does that work and how to set this ?

Sincee i am racing now......my qs.. are increasing....... sorry...... ! :)

cheers
ZooZ

[Little_Horn]

To answer the brake question. In the center diff are, you have 2 "horizontal levers" to brake. When you aply reverse in your transmitter, this "levers" are pulled. You can see that each lever acts on a brake (front or rear). In my mp777, the upper lever (above that small metal plate thing) is the rear one, and the down lever (below the plate) is the front one.
This levers have 2 springs in the end. This is to make a more progressive braking.
If you screw in the brake rods, the brakes will engage sooner.
If you screw in one brake rod more than the other, that brake will engage sooner.
So, if you screw in the rear brake rod, more than the front one, the rear brake will engage sooner. By that time, the rear brake will be braking at "full power" and the front brake at "reduced power".

Hope I made myself clear... ;)

[uaerc]

Little Horn

Thanks for the brake info. will try this today..

OK. We tried three different settings on the shock oil.

Front / Rear

1. 50/80
2. 55/60
3. 55/40

Out of the 3 options tried. the 2nd choice was the most stable one and performed really well. In our opinion.

Which is contradicting to what you said in the earlier post, where front has to be heavy from the rear.

Now is there anything wrong - or does this actually depend on the track ??

I want to make a track where can i get some overhead track pictures.

Cheers
ZOOZ

[Little_Horn]

It depends of "all" the stuff. A car setup depends on all of it's settings. IMO, you really should use heavier oil in front. After doing that, you have to play with differencial settings, and suspension settings.
Usually when you jump, the nose gets in contact with the ground a little sooner than the back. Also, when you brake, the nose tends to go deep. If a track is very rooted, and you're using heavier oil on the back, the back tends to "jump" alot more, and the car becomes uncontrolable in more extreme situations, but it sure affects handling.
I'm no expert, but I think that heavier oil on front is used for these reasons (and possibly some others that I don't know).
One piece of advice, look at the pro's settings. They are a excellent start.
I don't know how your differencials are, but possibly their setup is afecting the shocks setup. Try to use heavier oil on the front shocks, and change the differencials setup.
A good starting diffs. setup is 5k/7k/1k (front/center/rear).
About the shocks' holes, in the lower arms, use the inside hole (both front and rear). On the tower, use the inside holes also (both front and rear). In the rear you may try to use the inside hole from the down row. If this doen't feel good for some reason, use the inside hole from the row above (same row as the front hole).
But ultimatly, theres one thing, the most important one: use whatever you feel better with!
Everyone is different. Everyone uses different combinations. Use what's best for you.
But i gotta say this, I've never seen a pro driver using heavier oil in the back.

[Little_Horn]

Forgot one thing. About the track. There's a thread called "track making forum" (or something like that). Use the search.

[dgrobe2112]

what are you wanting it to do?? you got too much front brake.. i normally run less front than rear brake.. if you want.. you can also move the shocks to the outer hole on the bottom.. tha will help a little in the traction roll..

[KyoshoKev]

hey guys, this is for my sports 7.5, which has the stadard 17deg steering. and i am using the -3deg rear toe block.

anyway, it has excellent turn in, howerver coming out of the corner and into the straight, i can't keep the car straight. the car has very little straight line stability.

other than changing from 17deg to 20 or 22 deg, what can i do?

i suppose more +ve front toe.

should i add more camber?

cheers :cool:

[uaerc]

Thanks for the y'all

The diffs currently are stock K3. TCD/4k/1k as per the K3 manuals. the K2 had TCD in the centre dont know if it helps. Someone in the forum has said it does not.

Had a bad accident yesterday on my K3. The shock came off and due to which the dogbone came of the diff and started rotating which damaged my rear lower arm. Also I think it has damage the diff socket where the pins of the dogbone fits. Coz after this when i fixed and went again the dog bones just keep coming out,(these are Universal shafts) infact I had to refix them 3 time :( in the two tanks I played with.

Regarding the shocks, My car shocks were not done by my tech. so I had him 40 in the rear and 55 in the front. (Since 60 out of stock here). Didnt get to race much so will let you know the difference in my car with theirs....

the brakes of the K3 on road are so unnoticeable but on the track they just make the car stop !! while tunning the car up i just run it on a strech of tarmac thats when i test the brakes. I am using ABS while turning that helps me to get quick accelerating and more fast turns.

I changed the st. Servo arm to metal (JR) and put the arm rod in the last hole of the arm to give it more turning. infact I had to actually reduce the ETA / ATV.

Thanks for the forum link....

I still have to reach that stage of playing with those Shock tower settings.. :)

Regards
Aziz

[uaerc]

Thanks for the input y'all

The diffs currently are stock K3. TCD/4k/1k as per the K3 manuals. the K2 had TCD in the centre dont know if it helps. Someone in the forum has said it does not help for the guys in US ? ( i didnt get that bit)

Had a bad accident yesterday on my K3. The shock came off and due to which the dogbone came of the diff and started rotating ( coz i noticed late) which damaged my rear lower arm. Also I think it has damage the diff socket where the pins of the dogbone fits. Coz after this when i fixed everything and went again the dog bones just kept coming out,(these are Universal shafts) infact I had to refix them 3 times :( in the two tanks I ran..

Regarding the shocks, My car shock oils were not done by my tech. so I had him put 40 in the rear and 55 in the front. (Since 60 out of stock here). Didnt get to race much so will let you know the difference in my car compared with theirs....
About the PROS : you are right I notices Michel Matias's MP 777 touching the ground while coming out of a turn, in one of the pics on the IFMAR site....which proves everything. :)

the brakes of the K3 on road are so unnoticeable but on the track they just make the car stop !! while tunning the car up i just run it on a stretch of tarmac thats when i test the brakes. I am using ABS while turning that helps me to get quick accelerating and more fast turns.

I changed the st. Servo arm to metal (JR) and put the st. rod in the last hole of the arm to give it more turning. infact I had to actually reduce the ETA / ATV.

Thanks for the forum link....

I still have to reach that stage of playing with those Shock tower settings..but thanks for the advice.... :)

Regards
Aziz

[dgrobe2112]

Kyoshokev, going to more toe out will give even more turn it, less turn out.. and wont make it stable down the straight.. the best i can tell you is to go with 22 degree hubs. 2 degree squat plate in the rear.. but other than that.. try that.. try to get your toe out at around 1 degree..

[KyoshoKev]

kool thanks

[uaerc]

Rear Torque rod end has been damaged again. I was wondering could this be due to the soft / heavy oill in the rear.......since our jumps are quite high when the car lands it makes a big thud with the new soft oil setup...could this be the reaons for the damaged rod ends ? is there an option part for this rod end..

I also red something about the C-hub in the MP777 forum that this hub will be a good upgrade for the K3 ? any one done this on the K3 ?

Cheer
zooz

[dgrobe2112]

Dont know bout the 777 hubs.. i think they will fit.. now what kinda of perfomance gain or loss.. i coulndt tell ya.. Torque rod.. your talkin bout the chassis brace right? Personally.. i dont like the stock chassis brace.. there are lots of options for that.. www.kingheads.com can get both front and rear chassis braces for less than 40 bux, www.racers-edge.com fioroni chassis braces.. there are some on ebay for cheap I dont like the plastic ends of the stock braces.. and that could be part of the problem.. plastic will give.. and bent.. or flex.. that is likely what is causing the problem.

the top guys like Kanai, and them.. use the stock ones.. cuz they are so smooth.. and flowing.. that the car dont take hard knocks like yours or mine will take.. so.. check them out..

[dgrobe2112]

you guys wouldnt happen to know.. the length of the shock bodies on your K3's? would ya.. i think the fronts are 47mm.. but double check me.. can someone help me out..

thanks

[Toycar]

Traded my Wasp.26 for an OS VZB V-spec T on my K3. Ran 15 tanks through it today and tuned for power. It seemed happy at 205. There is no comparison the OS is amazing. It's got power everywhere and seems to have a smooth broad powerband unlike the Wasp. I didn't realize how peaky the Wasp was until I got the V-Spec T. The Wasp would break the tires loose all the time exiting corners which caused the buggy to wag it's tail or push off the track. The OS just hooks up and takes off. There's a new found control in corners entry and exiting is amazing.

Only issue is my clutch setup. I'm running the GH aluminum shoes for the savage (3). They way about twice as much as the K3 Al shoes. I've got the stock K3 springs on it. It grabs way early and boggs until I get off and get a bit of speed. I'll switch to the K3 Al shoes to eliminate the bog.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. cuz those shoes are so heavy, you will have problems with keeping them tight. Go with stock aluminum shoes.. and 1.0 or 1.1 springs. it will rip.. congrats on the Vspec

[uaerc]

Hi Guys

Just the quick Qs.. what is the major diff between the K3 and 777. I copied the 777 specs from the Kyosho Japan site.....

Hard Anodized Main Chassis
Equipped with front (LSD) gears
Universal Swing Shafts
High-strength Front & Rear Shock Stays
SP Brake Disk
Adjustable Tie-Rods
SP hard Upper Rods (F/R)
Adjustable S/T Rods
SPL Antenna Holder II
Teflon coated machined resin shock pistons
Lightweight Spur Gear
Precision machine cut anodized aluminum SP engine mount with heat-sink fin
Precision machine cut aluminum radio box
Precision machine cut aluminum wing stays
Low-friction surfaced shock cases


Cheers
Aziz

[uaerc]

sorry....

My left rear Uni. Shaft keeps coming off... all the time. whats the solution to fix this..

[dgrobe2112]

aerc, for the rear universal problem, you will have to limit your suspension, or get a set of front universals for the rear..

The difference between the K3, and the 777, well.. there are lots..
777 is shorter,
updated front suspension geometry
more steering
Low COG on everything
motor moved more to the center
radio tray is lower, and redesigned
rear end is updated.
rear shocks are longer,

other stuff like that..

the parts that you listed, are parts they put on the special 1, similar to the parts they put on the kanai, basically, some hopups, and bling parts, to seperate the special 1, from the regular kit.

[uaerc]

dgrobe2112

It Sounds so good infact i just cant wait to get my hands on this one really.......well actually i will wiat till the guys have used it, since my K3 is new only a month now. I guess its good to just hang on to this one till i get used to the setups etc......then I would get the 777 with a V spec on it...and plus i just invested in a FW05 so i got to hold on those horses....... :D

Regarding the problem I was facing, the uni shaft coming out :confused: ...,... i got so frustrated that i turned the upper arm a few turns making them shorter...put a pair of extra spacers in the shocks.......and played with those screws on the arm which I think are the droop screews......what actually did the trick was shortening of the upperr arm. the problem just vanished....so i am gonna unscrew those screws and leave the spacers and try it. But Now I have to adjust both the arms which are obviously not equal now since i only did one side.

Wooould this effect the performance of the car, i mean shorterning both the arms..?

zooz

[dgrobe2112]

im sure having the suspension on each side different will affect the handling.. i think you should use like a 2-3mm peice of fuel tube outside the shock body on the shock shaft to limit the uptravel of the shock.. and then use the droop screws to limit the down travel if needed..

[uaerc]

My shocks are the same. The only thing that is not same is the left upper arm, which have the turnbuckles. May be I was giving the wrong name. The arm with the turnbuckles in them, I had shortened the left side a bit say two or three turns, so now the shaft does not come out. Thus giving more camber to my left wheel.

[dgrobe2112]

so.. your saying that your camber is different on each side.. the top upper link is shorter on one side than the other.. i know thats the quick fix.. but your car is not right.. so.. i think the time they pop out is on uptravel.. so if you put say a 2mm piece of fuel tubing on your shock shaft. to limit the up travel of the suspension.. that may help..

[uaerc]

Thanks I will try that....

I just noticed that my K3's ball bearings are stuck again and now I need to replace them. Man the sand out here is really taken its toll on my car. Well I guess thats just the consumables. Anyone else having this problem I have got the K3 in June and this is the second time I will be changing the bearings. Someone check their bearings on their cars and let me know plz, as I want to find out whether this is normal

The servo saver has 4 ball bearings if i am not mistaken even these need replacing. I cant seem to find these at the moment but the hunt is on. BTW, the bearings usually have a no. to them which depicts there size. can anyone tell me this no of the servo saver bearings.

Regards
Aziz

[marctroy]

I have just about had it with my K2 and my O.S. .21 VZ(B)-P! Everything is brand new including an Ofna starter box and I can't seem to get the starter wheel to hit the flywheel. I've lined everything up properly with my spare new K2 chassis but the engine and flywheel (stock Kanai II 3 shoe) sit too high (stock motor mounts and the rear of the VZ-B is about 1/32" off of the chassis - can't go any lower) and the starter wheel is a standard one (about 4 1/2 - 5" diameter). I'm ending up with a tremendous amount of of rubber shavings all over the chasis, but the engine still isn't running. Even tried setting it up "sideways" on a Dynamite box and we still have the same problem.

Tech support at Kyosho's importer suggests increasing the width of the the flywheel hole with a dremel but it seems like there MUST be an easier solution - I don't think this K2 and .21 VZ(B)-P combination is that unusual....

Any help will be greatly appreciated!

[marctroy]

I have just about had it with my K2 and my O.S. .21 VZ(B)-P! Everything is brand new including an Ofna starter box and I can't seem to get the starter wheel to hit the flywheel. I've lined everything up properly with my spare new K2 chassis but the engine and flywheel (stock Kanai II 3 shoe) sit too high (stock motor mounts and the rear of the VZ-B is about 1/32" off of the chassis - can't go any lower) and the starter wheel is a standard one (about 4 1/2 - 5" diameter). I'm ending up with a tremendous amount of of rubber shavings all over the chasis, but the engine still isn't running. Even tried setting it up "sideways" on a Dynamite box and we still have the same problem.

Tech support at Kyosho's importer suggests increasing the width of the the flywheel hole with a dremel but it seems like there MUST be an easier solution - I don't think this K2 and .21 VZ(B)-P combination is that unusual....

Any help will be greatly appreciated!

[Toycar]

Sorry,to hear of your problems. I'm running an Ofna starter box with my K3 with no issues. I started out with a wasp.26 but in the last week switched to an OS VZB V-Spec. Starts fine every time.

[KyoshoKev]

have u got the starter box spinning the right direction?

i think the starter box wheel should turn anticlockwise, so that it can spin the flywheel clockwise. (or is it the otherway, not sure) :rolleyes:

p.s the kyosho fits perfect on the ofna starter box.

is this the starter box u got??

also make sure the rubber belt is TIGHT, otherwise the belt will strip, and As far as i know.they are not available for sale anywhere,

http://member.telpacific.com.au/soke/starterbox.jpg

[KyoshoKev]

hey kanai guys.

how do you guys shim your FR and RR diffs? do you put shims on both sides of the diffs or just on one side?

thanks

kev

[dgrobe2112]

uaerc.. i dont know bout the bearings going out that much.. but.. if you are lookin for replacements.. go to www.avidrc.com email David Joor, tell him the bearings you need.. he has all of them.. and cheap.. i think you could redo your whole car for less than 30 bux. that includes the servo saver bearings. Gret company, and has a 30 day warranty on his bearings..

[KanaiDude]

I put shims on both sides typically unless your having some alignment problem.

Have any of you guys used a fuel gun before? Tower has a kyosho gun on there sight and it looks pretty slick, but was curious about the actual functionality of it?

DG the ws72 is one bad ass motor, I've gone from being competitive to kicking some serious tale, last weekend I traded the lead in the main until the 20 min mark when I blew a rear bevel gear, everyone wants to know my secret now LoL and im like ummm RB???

[dgrobe2112]

Marctroy, that problem you are having.. i have not seen it before.. but i know it can happen. i have heard of some people dremeling their chassis to get the hole bigger.. i use the ofna blue box. have no problem with that at all.. the vspec, or VZB motors.. are not an uncommon combination.. and that should not be the reason you are not hitting the flywheel.. its probably cuz the way the motor is lined up.. you need to try lineing up the car with the pins and pegs loose.. get it to hit that way.. then tighten the pegs.. i had to have a friend help with this..

Kyosho Kev.. i had to use shims on my diffs.. i had to have them on the right side (passenger side) of the car.. really.. it depends on how much backlash you got.. i had to shim the diff away from the bevel gear.. cuz it was too tight.. you could have them on both sides.. to tighten the diff inside the diff case.. to keep it from moving left and right..

[atm92484_3]

how do you guys shim your FR and RR diffs? do you put shims on both sides of the diffs or just on one side?


I usually start with the standard shimming which is 1 small and 1 large shim on each side, I assemble the diff and housing with grease, and feel for the gear lash. Usually this stock setting is pretty close. If its off I disassemble and move a small shim one way or the other. This is usually enough to get the car rolling smoothly.

[dgrobe2112]

Kdude.. i have used the RB fuel gun.. its freakin fast.. it is like a gas pump.. automatically stops.. and i tell ya.. at this one track.. they had a huge jump on the front straight.. in front of pit lane.. that sent you really high.. or you rolled it.. well.. my fastest laps were laps that i came in the pits.. got gas.. and left.. haha.. imagine that.. i havent seen the Kyosho fuel gun.. or used one.. but i have used the RB fuel gun.. and its fast as heck..

Glad you like the WS7II, i love mine.. i got a brand new one in the box, waiting for this one to die.. haha.. but im on like gallon 4 of this current one.. and i dont see an end to this one for a while.. tons of life left.. my plan for this one.. is get a new S5 piston and sleeve for it.. and have a 5 port. and squeeze the WS7II sleeve that comes out of it..

I have not had the problem of blowing the gears with the motor.. but i found this motor likes to be fat on bottom.. and a tad lean on the top.. i run m ine at 240.. and its screams.. got fat on me this weekend.. dont know why.. i was running 220, so i leaned it.. it got to 225, so i lean a little more.. and in the main.. came off at 210.. imagine that.. oh well.. temp change.. and weather was iffy all day..

[KyoshoKev]

Have any of you guys used a fuel gun before? Tower has a kyosho gun on there sight and it looks pretty slick, but was curious about the actual functionality of it?

i'm going to try the ofna fuel gun.. $16bux... from ace.. or only $14.67 from hobbieguyrc.com

[KanaiDude]

I've got a new hanging piston/sleeve already (with rod) hehe. When I blew my bevel gear I proceeded to run the car for a few more laps (bad idea) do you think I could have hurt the motor at all I came in at like 275 degrees?, it still has good compression (hard to turn the motor when its mounted to the chassis) but its not like it was, I could hardly turn it over by hand before not mounted to the chassis.

So I'm pretty tempted to get that fuel gun hearing your comments even just so I can pit faster for my friends!

[dgrobe2112]

well.. its quite high in price.. i think its sweet but.. thats me.. unless your in the worlds or something.. no real biggy.. what i do.. is get the guy im pitting for.. to run me some good laps before i bring him in.. i find out bout houw many laps till he comes it.. tell him to push.. gain as much ground as you can.. then i try to get them in and out as fast as i can.. and beat the guy next to me in the pit.. and thats without the gun..

No, you did not hurt the engine running it like that.. the slipping sound you heard was the gears broken.. thats all.. now.. you did put some more load on the diff that was working.. so make sure you check that diff as well.. might not be a bad time to replace the oils in all you diffs.. since you gotta take that one out and apart anyway.. but dont worry bout that motor.. its fine.. you wont have that tight pinch forever.. actually.. that pinch that cant be turned over at first.. is gone right after breakin.. so.. no worry.. motor is in great shape..

[KyoshoKev]

hey guys something wrong with my rear diff..

i got the whole rear end off...

i roll the two rear wheels forward on the ground... it rolls for about 10cm and then both wheels lock.

any ideas what may be wrong???

[atm92484_3]

Is it possible that a rock or something may be caught in between the right and pinion gears?

[KyoshoKev]

i pull it out, open diff case, reinstall, did this a few times, and now no more problems, very wierd...

i got another problem..

the screws always keep coming off, underneath the chasis. it undoes about 1mm after about 60 seconds of running. and at the end of the tank, the screw is nearly all the way out.

the four screws that holds the front suspension,

the four screws that hold the rear suspension and the

two screws that hold the servo saver/steering.

these are all metal to plastic parts. should i loc tite these? I got 222 loctite. i was told not to loctite metal to plastic parts.

Also the smaller screws, the ones that hold the electronics and fuel tank, they dont fall out, but when i screw them in, they dont "lock" they keep on screwing for ever without stopping.

this normal?

thanks

kev

[Little_Horn]

About the servo saver, at least on my mp777, it screws metal with metal. Check your manual. My manual says to use thread lock in the servo saver.
About the diff. gearbox screws, that is very wierd!
Anyway, if the screws keep coming of, you can do 2 things. Use some nail polish on the screws, and then tighten them. The nails polish will dry and hold them.
You can also use some thread lock. It will not adhere to the plastic, just the screw, givig the same effect as nail polish.

About the tank and radio tray screws. Make sure that the post they sit in don't start to turn. If they do, you will not be able screw anything. You just need to screw the post first, from the underneath of the chassis, put the tank and radio tray over them and start screwing. If any of the posts start moving again, secure them with you fingers (you may use a rag or something to help you hold on the posts), while you screw them.
If this is not the case, you overtightned the screws in the past. Use some nail polish or thread lock as before.
About the gas tank. You have to leave the gas tank loose. When I say loose, you must be able to move it from one side to another. Notice between the tank screws and the tank, there's a rubber ring. The tank need to move, so it can absorve some of the irregularities/impacts of the terrain.

P.S.: The nail polish is the first thing you should try.

[KanaiDude]

If you hold on to the radio tray posts like LittleHorn said that should work, I prefer the alluminum radio tray posts as they have no give to them, I like my radio tray nice and planted, that way if you have to turn your brakes up a bit the radio tray has no chance to move when you brake, the plastic is a little to flexible for my likings. I prefer my gas tank a little on the snug side, when your putting a tank on for the first time, just tighten the screws down fairly tight but don't over turn once you feel some resistance, I've never had a problem with stripping screws there, or any bubbles etc. from my tank from being to tight. Threadlock everywhere you can! I have become 1 with my k2 and before every race I do quite a bit of wrenching, this includes keeping my threadlock bottle on the table and using it on almost every screw, you think screws popping out every minute is bad try finishing a 30 min main.

[dgrobe2112]

the screws that go into the servo saver on the bottom, are metal to metal, you can use loctite on those.. however.. the 4 in the front.. and 4 in the rear.. those are gonna strip, i highly reccommend getting a set of stainless screws for the car, they have more threads than the kit screws. will hold the plastic a little better, also.. try using some nail polish, that will help also.. but not hold it forever, that is just a quick fix, or some CA glue, but then again.. thats just a quick fix.

When you screw in the 4 underneath the radio tray, and the 2 that hold in the gas tank, you need to make sure that the plastic they are screwing into.. is not spinning, if you are running a Kanai 3, your radio tray post should be aluminum, you will have to hold those with some pliers to keep them from spinning. also on the gas tank.. you will have to hold those as well, to keep them from spinning.. one way to keep that from happening, is the screw that goes down from the gas tank.. make sure its tight first. same with the radio tray..

but definitly get you a stainless screw kit.. if you were near me.. i would give you some to try..

[KyoshoKev]

thanks fellas,


i am having problems with my tire Outer sidewalls not lasting. (prolines)

I am trying to add more camber, so i can put less pressure on the outer edges of the sidewall coz there not lasting for more than 1 gallon, even though the tread is about 80% left. :o

what you guys think about my camber? aiming for around negative 2deg all round.. it probably looks like i got -ve 5 eh? :rolleyes:

Rear
http://au.msnusers.com/_Secure/0SABvHEkVSP4l!uEXbLUt33bfJ1BwGl6QVaZzlBJpXRAmBwlQH kx794SKCYLNcz0AQ26iGIWxSd60eKvA9WkUS02Q6k3HiNtx9m! ArECB9L4AAAAAAQAAAA/camber%20001.jpg


Front
http://member.telpacific.com.au/soke/frontcamber.jpg

[KyoshoKev]

blank

[dgrobe2112]

i run -2 camber on my car.. and it dont look that obvious.. if i were you i would get a camber guage.. RPM makes one, i think it cost like 5-10 bux, excellent tool.. byut i run at -2 camber all around.. it dont look that leaned over. Sidewall problems?? car will roll in the turns.. that could be your inner foams wearing out.. allowing the tire to actually flex over the rim.

[Shakedown]

I'm currently shopping for a steering servo for 1/8 buggy.

What's the minimum torque requirement for one of these and what is fast enough?


Interested in these right now:

Hitec HS 5925 & 5945
KO Propo 2344, 2343, 2174, 2173
Futaba 9350, 9451

Are these good choices for 1/8 buggy competition?

[atm92484_3]

For torque, I'd go atleast 120 ounces and a transit time as fast as you can afford. I'm currently running a s9350 from Futaba and I have nothing but good things to say about the servo. Its rated at 139 ounces and .12 seconds for 60 degrees at 6v, but I personally do not think you need much more in an 1/8 scale buggy. The servo has absolutely no trouble turning whether the buggy is stopped or going around a high traction turn.

[dgrobe2112]

shakedown, i posted in the other thread some info also..

[NoRotorLS1]

Hi, i'm having a hard time finding 5x8x0.2mm shims, and a 5x10mm washer for the clutch. I"ve gotten almost everything else i need to get my used k3 running from tower, but i just can't seem to find these two parts. Any help is appreciated.

[dgrobe2112]

i think you can get a regular shim kit.. and it will work.. should have all the shims needed in the kit.. also.. you could look at other manufacturers.. for their clutch shim kit also..

[atm92484_3]

For the clutch, I use HPI shims. I believe they're .1mm thick and they're either 5x7 or 5x10mm.

[invsible]

hey guys what will the 2 different c hubs do the differance between the 20 and 22 hubs

[dgrobe2112]

they each change the way the car turns.. run 22 for better exit steering.. and 20 for better enter steering..

[KyoshoKev]

hey fellas.

can you look in your k3 manual and tell me if IF21 is the part number for the small outer bevel drive gear (hardened steel)

thanks :)

[dgrobe2112]

Kkev.. the part number is IF021 that is the drive bevel gear that is inside the diff housing.. that turns the big gear of the diff. They have them on ebay for like 9 bux for 2

[KyoshoKev]

fanx

[orangutan racer]

Here is a tip for everyone dealing with breaking the nose off the bodys. I bought this front upper plate that moves the front body mount back to an area on the body that is thicker and less prone to breaking. Just thought I like to share this info.
Here is the part #IF205
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGV9&P=7

[KyoshoKev]

oh no a sports rtr part LOL

[orangutan racer]

oh no a sports rtr part LOL
Don't laugh it works, and its the same quality as the rest of the kyosho front plates.

[dgrobe2112]

i dotn have a problem with breaking the front nose off the buggy.. when i cut my body to mount.. i cut enough kinda like the mugen.. so the body goes on and off without having to bent here and there to get the body between the shocks.. also.. i cut a piece of lexan that resembles the front nose.. and shoe goo it underneath the nose.. and i dont have the nose break off..

[KyoshoKev]

Don't laugh it works, and its the same quality as the rest of the kyosho front plates.

yeah was being sarcastic :D

[invsible]

hey do you guys know the caster of the c hubs on the reg. mp7.5 the old kit??

[dgrobe2112]

standard kit.. i think is 17..

[KanaiDude]

I use the kyosho lexan nose and rear guard, put that on top of your body under the pin, I havn't broken a nose since, not the greatest looking but you can't tell from over ten feet away...

[dgrobe2112]

lol.. on top?? i thought they were supposed to go on bottom.. under the body..

[invsible]

will the standard 7.5 c hubs work on the k3????

[dgrobe2112]

yes they will..

[KanaiDude]

I haven't seen Anywhere if they are suposed to go on the top or bottom, but after glueing this to the inside and having the glue break away and rip the paint off the inside, I think it's suposed to go on top of the outside, it requires no trimming this way and keeps the long narrow part of the nose from flexing which is why it breaks usually, and you only have to use it when racing, i'd like to see it in a manual though or something just out of curiosity.

[KanaiDude]

I can see why it sounds funny cause I mount all my other bodies on top of the reinforcements but I dunno I just prefer it this way on my 1/8 scale but I'll try trimming it and glueing it on the next one maybe I just haven't done it right yet.

[uaerc]

HI guys

I was just wondering what toe out to use on the 20' hubs.....the rear Toe - in is dialed in at 2.5 with the 2.5 block as per the manaul. But after excessive play almost 2 gallons on my car. Its time to change the rims and tires, ball bearings all over, spoiler and probably an engine - v-Spec lol ! . I got the dish type wheels from hong nor and Power tires cross x..type tires. and another set of stock rims and power tires with those PINs...my qs. is that what major difference does these designs play while racing....anyone have any charts for power tires.

I also got some super soft 7.5 rear springs to try out on my K3 just to feel the difference on handling.........anyone tries these.

[dgrobe2112]

the toe out.. should be around -1 to 0 degrees toe out.. all the time.. if you run 22, then i would start at -1 toe out.. 20.. i would prolly start will 0.. 20 will take away exit steering..

Now.. its really personal preferece.. on rims.. i like the dish rims.. but. the new MP777 rims are sweet.. you should try those..

Also.. if your looking for bearings.. go to www.avidrc.com and they got all the bearings you will ever need... and cheap too.. tell David Joor that Daniel Grobe sent ya.. you can replace every bearing in your car.. for round 20 bux.

Only springs i ever run on my Kyosho is the Kanai blue springs..

[invsible]

what springs and shoes would you run with a ws7 2 in a k3 with all standard diffs??

[dgrobe2112]

1.1 springs with drilled carbon shoes.. the aluminum didnt work great for me.. if your interested.. i got a brand new WS7II engine i will sell also..

[invsible]

do you mean the stock black shoes and what size holes and how many???

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. stock black shoes.. they are easier on the bearings.. and heat.. i drilled it with a small drill bit.. cant remember what size.. and i put 3 holes in them. Also, i would run the 063 pipe with that motor also.. or a 086 with waller adapter..

[invsible]

alright ill give it a try thanks

[invsible]

hey im running 1k oil in my rear diff if i went to 3k would it make it less "loose" it wants to come around pretty quick and ive got 7k up front and 10k in the center.....

[Little_Horn]

No. It will be more "loose", because you will get a "harder" rear. The diff. will be harder and the car will drift more.

[dgrobe2112]

correct, lighter fluid in the rear gives more cornering traction and more steering.. heavier in the rear reduces sidebite and steering.

[dgrobe2112]

also, in the front, heavy fluid like 7k in the front reduces steering.. but most drivers use between 3k and 7k.. so if you are having steering issues.. you could try 5k..or 3k in the front, on my 7.5, i never went over 5k in the front..

[KyoshoKev]

hey guys, can you explain the diff b/t the A block

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_426_355_366_394&products_id=5815

and the B block

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_426_355_366_394&products_id=5815


it says the A block 2 deg castor and 2 deg toe and the b block is 2 deg castor and 5 deg toe.

i thought castor was determined by the hub carriers 17 deg, 20,deg, 22,deg. and toe was adjusted by the steering turnbuckles.

cheers

[invsible]

turn in and steering is good but the ass end wants to come around in a hurry it does it alot on high speed corners it could be the tires im using (prp pre mounts = junk) also now my rear drive shaft pops out when the suspension is fully compressed just the right side just all of a sudden it stated doing this any info....

[orangutan racer]

hey guys, can you explain the diff b/t the A block

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_426_355_366_394&products_id=5815

and the B block

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_426_355_366_394&products_id=5815


it says the A block 2 deg castor and 2 deg toe and the b block is 2 deg castor and 5 deg toe.

i thought castor was determined by the hub carriers 17 deg, 20,deg, 22,deg. and toe was adjusted by the steering turnbuckles.

cheers

I think its a typo on the description of the a and b blocks. I think they should read:
A block 2deg castor and 2 deg toe

B block 5 deg castor and 2 deg toe

They change the castor by changing the amount of kickup the suspention arms have. Changing the kickup angle will change the angle of the hub carriers and therefore change castor.

On some cars the toe of the suspention arms is adjustable. But I don't belive they use these blocks to do this in this case.

[dgrobe2112]

turn in and steering is good but the ass end wants to come around in a hurry it does it alot on high speed corners it could be the tires im using (prp pre mounts = junk) also now my rear drive shaft pops out when the suspension is fully compressed just the right side just all of a sudden it stated doing this any info....

invis.. that was a prob with the K3, the rear universals.. were too short.. you could put the fronts in the rear.. and solve that problem.. or use some fuel tubing around the shock shaft to limit the uptravel. ass wants to come around on high speed turns.. you could go up in front diff oil.. for on power.. during a high speed corner.. i suggest running 5/7/1 diffs front to rear.. thats what i ran.. and my car was dialed.. i kinda wanted more steering.. you could try 2k in the rear also..

[invsible]

on the drive shafts just switch the fronts and rears or get another set of fronts for the rear??? i went to 3k in the rear and it semed to help, strange since every one said it would make it worse .....maybe its the engine ws7 2 throws down some power :) jk should i try 2 deg rear kick up (the gold plate) instead of the stock blue one

[dgrobe2112]

invis.. if you want to try swapping the universals.. im not sure.. but the answer for the Univerals popping out the rear is putting the fronts in the rear.. i dont know if you put the rears in the front.. if they will be too short or not..

What i had for my buggy was 3 degree toe block in the rear.. that helps on sweepers.. more in the straight than anything.. with a 2degree squat plate.. which is the gold one.. i had a bad on power push.. so i went to 2 degree toe plate in the rear.. Also.. what castor blocks are you running?? try running the 20 degree castor blocks.. those are for better turn in.. but kill the turn out.. so.. that may solve that problem also.. what oils are you running in your shocks..

i rant 60/40 front to rear..
20 degree castor
5/7/1 or 3/7/1 either way
2 toe in the rear.. and 2 squat in the rear
1 degree toe out in the front wheels
shock spacers so the front is above level.. and rear is level

but you stated before.. you could have tire issues.. if you change tires to waht the fast guys are running.. that could solve your problem also..

I listed my setup for you though.. and i had a on power push with that setup..

[invsible]

my set up right now is
20deg hubs, white front springs 40wt level arms 2deg neg camber toe ?? (waiting on hudy system) b blocks .....rear blue kick up plate 35wt oil blue springs 3deg toe plate neg 2deg camber ......i only had those tires on their to not waste my panthers ill never get those prp tires again knobs just ripped right off only ran them twice and that was to much i guess.....junk oh and i took the sway bars off the track is pretty rough

[dgrobe2112]

i always run sway bars.. move the holder out to the end.. i was also told to run the front above level.. white springs all the way around?? i always had the blue. i ran -1 camber in all 4 corners.. also.. the rear upper arm.. was in the outer hole.. on the hub.. and in the shock tower.. inside lower.. so it was actually pointing down.. toward the diff.. could be tires though.. your setup dont sound too off.. i did go to the inside hole on the lower shock.. on all 4 also..

[dgrobe2112]

but im pretty sure it was just tires.. really.. also.. that setup that i ran.. was almost identical to Degani's setup also..

[invsible]

thanks for the input im gonna make some small changes and hopefully it wont rain come sunday .................i have blue springs in the rear and white up front im gonna try some heavier oil also like 45wt front and 40wt rear and a couple other things

[dgrobe2112]

no prob.. that is the best thing to do.. make little changes.. here and there..

[invsible]

what does changing the rear kick up plate do going from say 3deg to 2deg .....its the plate on the front of the rear bulkhead

[Little_Horn]

That plate helps to stabilize the car in different track situations. The 1 degree plate is good in extremelly smooth tracks, the 3 degrees plate is good in very rooted/bumpy tracks, and the 2 degrees plate is of course, an intermediate one.
I know this because I asked this same question a short time ago to my LHS guy/owner.

[dgrobe2112]

that kick up plate.. also known as anti-squat. more anti squat.. means less squat when the weight transfers back on power

[invsible]

would it change the forward bite of the rear wheels out of corners??

[invsible]

is any one going to the nevada state championship race in nov.?

[buggie_boy]

go to this website and it will tell you about the buggie www.Kyosho.com