1/10 EP Touring Car Pros and Cons

[chambalero]

Hello fellow racers! I'm sure a lot of you would like to hear about the other touring cars... especially the competition! Feel free to express what you like about your car/s or vent out what you hate about your purchase. After all... no car is perfect. We can even mention what car we are eyeing and why, or what car we we'd never buy and for what reason. It'll be good to compare all the cars in the 1/10 ep touring car range. Might even help us next time we go shopping for a kit.
:)

[chambalero]

I'll start: I have a tc3 and it is faaast! it is also easy to set up. Problem is the arms and the steering knuckles are fragile. I had to change the knuckles to losi knuckles but there is no solution yet for the arms. Looks like a weakling compared to xxxs's and barracuda r2's. Heard the diffs are also fragile.

[TheoDR]

I've a TA04, find it quite good and tweakable, has a wide range of hop-ups to choose from.

[Sharkey]

this will start a ton of flaming against this car, but anyways...

my car: hpi pro 3
pros: easy to set up, tons and tons of hop ups avalible for it, responds to suspention changes well, durable.

cons: chassis flex (can be fixed with an aftermarket chassis and upper deck). the flex can be a good thing though in low traction areas, but generaly makes the handling sluggish.

[sixandeightstringer]

Originally posted by Sharkey
this will start a ton of flaming against this car, but anyways...

my car: hpi pro 3


Hey, I borrowed a Pro3 to run at the HPI Challenge a couple weeks ago, and ran it (bone stock) in the Sportsman Stock class. I normally run XXX-S's, so it was a very different car.

For asphalt, I found it to be EXTREMELY easy to get it set up and make it go very fast. I came in third overall, which I think is pretty good for a borrowed car! The chassis flex was obvious, but it seemed to hook up really well (medium track temp, 27Rs in the rear, 33Rs in the front) and was super easy to drive, even in traffic. Props for that.

That said, I was glad to come home to my XXX-S's, which aren't really popular around me (the dominant car is clearly the TC3.) While not as punchy out of the corners as the shaft cars are, the XXX-S carries speed through corners really well and complements a smooth driving style (but not a brake'n'mash the throttle style). It's really free and smooth, and pretty durable - though, now that I'm becoming a better driver, breakage is becoming less of an issue anyway.

[k_sw31]

I dont have a real touring car, but I can give a quick review of my M03l (tamiya mini cooper) that I use for club racing (there is a seperate class for M03, M03l and M04 chassis only).

Pros: A good beginner kit, but with some hopups can turn some surprising laps, with the stock mabuchi.
Extremly durable, I have crashed this thing while running a 14 turn D5 into just about anything you can imagine, it just keeps on ticking.
Nicley detailed body.
There is a special class in the TCS.

Cons: Requires a fair amount of hopups to race competitivly (shocks, bearings, uprights, the list goes on...)
The ladder frame chassis (I think thats what they're called) can be hard to wrench on.

Whats unique: Front wheel drive, everything is in the front, except for the rx, and the battery is in the middle.
The handling characteristics of FWD are much different than any other rc I have driven, it requires some different driving techniques.

I have a question for you TC guys out there...

I am gonna pick up a TC to race 19 turn spec for next summer.

I have narrowed it down to an Xray T1 raycer or an FT TC3.
Which do you guys prefer and why?

[chambalero]

Originally posted by k_sw31

I am gonna pick up a TC to race 19 turn spec for next summer.

I have narrowed it down to an Xray T1 raycer or an FT TC3.
Which do you guys prefer and why?

why not consider an sd ssg?:D recently got one cos it looks promising. well if you really have to choose between the two i'd say go for the ft tc3. its more raceworthy than the raycer. you'd have to hop up some of the things in the racer to make it as competitive as the ft tc3. besides, the tc3 is proven already. as i have mentioned previously, replace the steering knuckles with losi xxxs graphite knuckles if you don't want to keep stripping the ae ones. it would be good also to replace the ballcups with rpms or something similar. i also just got a xxxs gplus because i've heard a lot of good things about it. i just hope the belt is not a liability. haven't finished building these two kits yet so i can't say much:)

[trickedoutGT]

Car: HPI Pro 3

Whats hot:
Extremely durable
wide array of hop ups available
easy to set up for any type of racing

Whats not:
Chassis flex
Battery can be a pain to take out if using HPI or Hot Bodies Upper deck but can be fixed by buying Team PRP Upper Deck.

Bottom Line:
Good seasonal race car, responsive and good handling. Very cheap right now(look on Ebay).

Don't Miss:
A bunch of Hot Bodies hop ups.

[trickedoutGT]

Originally posted by k_sw31
I am gonna pick up a TC to race 19 turn spec for next summer.

I have narrowed it down to an Xray T1 raycer or an FT TC3.
Which do you guys prefer and why? I'd get the FT TC3. There are plenty of parts for it and a bunch of hop ups too. It uses stick packs instead of the saddle configuration used on the Xray. But when you mention Xray, people know that its high class.:)

[filipinoguy]

oooh, I want to play.:p

HPI Sprint (RTR)

Pros: Its a Cheap RTR. Comes with all the stuff you need to get it running, 'cept a good charger, and you might want some more batteries. 20 MPH out of the box. Comes with oil filled shocks, bearings, Better than most ''entry RC cars.'' Durable enough.

Cons: Understeer. Limited adjustability, and hop ups. Doesn't come with adjustable tie rods (turnbuckles). Slightly limited gearing, and front belt skips.

Conclusion: Its a good car to start out with, but the truth is there's better things out there.:cool:

[chambalero]

hey filipinoguy!

i'm also a filipino guy! from manila;)

[magius231]

I'll get laughed at for this one but...

I drive a Kyosho Pure Ten Alpha 2 car (has anyone even heard of this?)

pros:
1. initial cost: $50 :D
2. stock parts: 20t stock motor, shaft driven 4WD, electric speed control, RTR
3. accepted a modified 19t motor with no complaints, even on the stock ESC (and now has enough power to rip the unglued tires right off the rim)

cons:
1. not sold anymore, so stock parts are hard to come by and I dunno about aftermarket yet
2. sort of heavy, the stock chassis is a full body style...dremel here I come! Sort of a pro too as I could fit almost anything in there...
3. probably not as advanced as some of the newer designs, but for $50 you can't bitch too much.

It doesn't corner exceptionally well stock (course mine is old) but with some decent shocks and good tires I'll bet it could run pretty good. I still don't have $100 in mine and it will easily fishtail from a stop and pull the tires off the rims in a turn. I smoked some kid on one of those motorized scooters the first time I cranked the new motor up, it was sort of funny :)

[sixandeightstringer]

Originally posted by chambalero
i also just got a xxxs gplus because i've heard a lot of good things about it. i just hope the belt is not a liability.

Shouldn't be - it's hard to break it, if that's what you mean; I have a rally conversion I made out of a XXX-S and I haven't even stretched or broken the belt after launching it 5 feet in the air on many occasions. :)

The only "liability" might be that it's not quite as "punchy" out of corners as the shaft cars tend to be. However, it's very forgiving and really smooth, and if you drive it with that in mind, you'll find yourself making a lot of passes in the infield when the shaft cars are braking and you're coasting by. It may not be as easy to drive for a "newbie" or someone who's established a "driving style" with a car like the TC3; but once you learn how to drive it to its strengths, it's extremely competitive.

[chambalero]

Originally posted by sixandeightstringer
The only "liability" might be that it's not quite as "punchy" out of corners as the shaft cars tend to be. However, it's very forgiving and really smooth, and if you drive it with that in mind, you'll find yourself making a lot of passes in the infield when the shaft cars are braking and you're coasting by. It may not be as easy to drive for a "newbie" or someone who's established a "driving style" with a car like the TC3; but once you learn how to drive it to its strengths, it's extremely competitive. [/B]

the "punchiness" you're talking about is what i'm worried. i really liked my tc3 but so far i have competed only in stock. it was very quick. really uses the limited power of the motor. but i'm planning on taking on mod next and i'm guessing that the belt will lend some mercy on my driving style. but i'm also hoping that slack would also be very minimal in mod. i've heard that the xxxs shines most in mod.

[JEEL]

Personally, I think the whole punchiness of the shaft vs. belt is overated! If you are top 3 at you track and are looking for .001 to.01 seconds a lap, then yes it is extremely important. However, if you are off the pace by 1.0 seconds per lap or more (depending on track size and lap times, of course) then you just need to concentrate on smooth driving! I have owned both TC3 FT's and XXX-S's and unless your a stud at your local track, neither will keep you from being AS COMPETITIVE as your SKILLS allow.

[3Nracer]

I agree with chambalero when he sez the TC3's arms are fragile. It sux that there's no good stronger replacement for it. I also broke another part [dunno what its called, it holds the axle]. And my friend has experienced a LOT of trouble with his front shock tower, its broken many times. But that might just be cuz his 5-yr-old bro drove it, or maybe becuz it got hit head on by a T3 . . . ;) . But anyway, everything else about the TC3 is pure high quality touring car stuff. :cool:

[sixandeightstringer]

Originally posted by JEEL
Personally, I think the whole punchiness of the shaft vs. belt is overated! ... neither will keep you from being AS COMPETITIVE as your SKILLS allow.

Tru dat! The best hopup you can get for your car is PRACTICE!

That said...

Originally posted by chambalero
really uses the limited power of the motor. but i'm planning on taking on mod next and i'm guessing that the belt will lend some mercy on my driving style. but i'm also hoping that slack would also be very minimal in mod. i've heard that the xxxs shines most in mod.

If you think stockers are slow, you don't race with our crew! :p

I've heard that shaft drives can suck for mod; the torque steer inherent in the design is far more noticable when there's a lot more torque and RPMs. The XXX-S will exhibit little or no torque steer because the rotation is inline with the vehicle's motion.

[thedominator]

i love my xxx-s
its easy to wrench on
durable(I've taken some really hard hits and havn't broken anything.)

the one thing I have found wrong with the car is that stick packs slide right out the side of the car in minor wrecks and scrapes. A re-usable zip-tie fixed that though.

[chambalero]

Originally posted by thedominator
i love my xxx-s
the one thing I have found wrong with the car is that stick packs slide right out the side of the car in minor wrecks and scrapes. A re-usable zip-tie fixed that though.

if u can make your stick packs side by side then it will be much better for handling. lower cg- better handling. the batts will fit in the slots. remember, the batts are the heaviest component of an ep car;)

good to hear the good comments about the xxxs. i was already thinking of selling the kit and finish building the sd ssg instead. now i feel good about building the xxxs:) :) :)

[mitel]

i run a fsr bullet. m sonic 3 esc 7.2volt 3000mah pack team orion orbital pro bb mod motor crappy electronics. my range is really bad cos of my 2nd best electronics but i still cane most car in open space. my car rips glued tyres off their rims.

i'll shut up now

[DCLXVI]

Originally posted by magius231
I'll get laughed at for this one but...

I drive a Kyosho Pure Ten Alpha 2 car (has anyone even heard of this?)

pros:
1. initial cost: $50 :D
2. stock parts: 20t stock motor, shaft driven 4WD, electric speed control, RTR
3. accepted a modified 19t motor with no complaints, even on the stock ESC (and now has enough power to rip the unglued tires right off the rim)

cons:
1. not sold anymore, so stock parts are hard to come by and I dunno about aftermarket yet
2. sort of heavy, the stock chassis is a full body style...dremel here I come! Sort of a pro too as I could fit almost anything in there...
3. probably not as advanced as some of the newer designs, but for $50 you can't bitch too much.

[...]


Eh...I know of it...I have one...Alpha2...I wan't so lucky with the price though (live in Europe) and bought it new (kit version) with a cheapo HiTec ESC and some other things... I have about 750 USD in it without doing that much...upgraded to oil shock, two new sets of tires and rims (kyosho brand) and a new 17T GM motor...it's fun to drive but it's no competition winner...

Also I don't know if that is something special to the US but here theres a new PureTen Alpha out...the Alpha 3...biggest improvment are oil-filled shocks...

BTW...it can take a beating really well...I have abused it so much and still only managed to break an axle...(where the pin goes through it, the pin that holds the hex-adapter)...