Lite Stick HELP !!!

[LazarWulf]

HELP !
I have a slightly modified LiteStick that seems "anemic".
I put on a dihedral string and lightened the gearbox, still this
bird just does not seem to have the power to get off the ground.
I am using a brand new 6 cell 150 mah NiCad pack. I have heard that
going to 7 Cells helps. Is this my only problem? I am using real
lightweight stuff.
The bird weighs in at 125 gr without battery and 175 gr with
the battery.
How can they cell this thing and expect it to fly with only 6 cells?
I am flying outside early in the morning with maybe some gently winds.
I hand launch it an then she gently comes down.
It seems to be set up proper. She glides down quite nicely ;)
Climbing though is out of the question.

I am going to buy a single 159 mah cell and turn my pack into a 7 cell.
Hopefully that will do it.

Please, any imput would be appreciated.
(sorry bout the large pic size )

http://www.rcmicroflight.com/upload/full.jpg

http://www.rcmicroflight.com/upload/components.jpg

http://www.rcmicroflight.com/upload/topdown.jpg

-Twain
(LazarWulf)

:eek:

[pease1]

Here are some suggestions:

1) is your charger the stock timed charger? If so you're likely not getting a proper full charge. You can 'double charge' the packs if you hold them in your hand and remove them from the second charge as soon as they start to warm up. This is sub-optimal though - getting a proper peak charger is the best solution.

2) Is your prop on the right way? The printing faces forward, away from the plane.

3) is there any slippage in your prop mounting. This is a problem with some GWS systems, make sure the prop is tightened properly.

4) Is your CG set per the instructions?

Hope this helps,
Al

[pease1]

Oh yeah, as for the CG, I find the stock measurements to seldom a properly balanced LS, I almost always have to build it per instructions, then move things (usually the wing forward) about to get it to balance properly.

Al

[LazarWulf]

I am sure the batteries are peaked. I am using a Tekin BC112 charging at .30 amps. Takes about 15 minutes to charge and the pack is warm.

Where should the CG be? How does that affect getting power to lift?

-Twain

[pease1]

I don't have the instructions right at hand but they say where the CG should be, it's something like 2.25" from the LE I think but you'll want to check the instructions.

If the CG is too far forward you'll need WAY more power to climb, which will seriously reduce the amount of usefull climbing time you'll get from a pack. Careful about putting it too far back though - planes get twitchy if tail heavy. You want it 'just right'.

Al

[ 07-01-2001: Message edited by: Allan Wright ]

[cartwrigh]

I see that you are using a modified gearbox. Make sure that everything is in alignment and not binding and sapping power. I fly my stick on 7 cells with no problems. ROG's have a very short roll here in Costal Mississippi which is 25 feet above sea level

[pease1]

Yeah I forgot to mention altitude will definately have an effect on such a slow plane. (Not a problem for me here on the New Hampshire seacoast - I have tidal water less than a mile from my home)

Al

[jimwalker]

Altitude could be your problem. I live in New Mexico at about 3700 feet above sea level. I flew my lite stik on 7 cells and it did fly but seemed a little lethargic based on what I was reading on the internet. I got about 4 minutes on a 110mah nicad pack and I had to keep the throttle at 3/4 to maintain altitude and pretty much full throttle to climb. My lite stik weighed just under 7 ounces with the 7 cell pack.

The old-timers here scoff at electrics and say, "Electrics may be well and good at sea level, but they are worthless at this altitude." I don't agree with them, you just have to "overpower" them and then you get normal performance compared to sea level flying. For example, I had to buy a speed 300 motor to replace my stock S280 motor in an ARF I bought from Northeast Sailplanes. The thing wouldn't fly on the stock equipment, but the S300 motor gives me very good performance with a higher cell count NIMH pack.

If you are at a higher altitude than most, I feel your pain. Hang in there and you'll figure it out. Electric microflight is the way to go!!

[LazarWulf]

Can't be the altitude. I live in SO. California about 15 minutes from the beach ;)

I do have some more questions abouit CG. How do you determine the CG of the plane.

I know that you can use a string or whatever to balance it. But I can shift weight to change the CG to anything I want. If I were to build a custom plane or radically modify this one, I would need to know how to determine CG.

Since I have a modified gearbox I cannot use the measurements that GWS uses in the manual. Can anyone give me the measurement from the tip of the plane ( not including cone) to the front of the wings?

-Thanks for all the help

[pease1]

CG is always measured relatively to the center of lift. Usually this is specified from the leading edge of the plane. Your modified gearbox will not change the reccomended CG for that airfoil. For the LS I just draw the reccomended CG on the underside of the wings and use those marks to put my fingetips on when balancing the plane. When it balances on my fingers it's close enough.

Al

[LazarWulf]

The measurement that is given is relative to the back of the gearbox. Hehe since mine is shorter I lost my reference point !
I would appreciate it very much if you could give me the measurement on the wings that are relative to the front of the wing. Making a mark under the wing is a great idea.

-Twain

[pease1]

60mm (6cm) back from the leading edge is what my manual says. There are many different people selling the same Lite-Stik kit under different brands. Your instructions may not be as good as the ones I got. I have the Wattage brand LS.

6cm works well for me. As long as you placed the wing where the kit calls for, adjust the battery placement until your plane balances with your fingertips at 6cm back from the LE. I use a pen to mark the spot on the underside of the wings for easy reference.

Hope this helps.

Al

[LazarWulf]

Ok.. So I tried adding a 7th cell. Guess what?? It is an entirely different plane.. I am not sure how they expect someone to fly with only 6 cells.. But I dont really care anymore.. ;) Been flying all the time with the 7 cells.. Now what modification is next ;) I think Ailerons.....

Thanks for all the help,
Twain

[LazarWulf]

Ok.. So I tried adding a 7th cell. Guess what?? It is an entirely different plane.. I am not sure how they expect someone to fly with only 6 cells.. But I dont really care anymore.. ;) Been flying all the time with the 7 cells.. Now what modification is next ;) I think Ailerons.....

Thanks for all the help,
Twain

[Cook]

Hey there.

My Lite Stik, which I built (actually more like assembled) a while ago flew okay stock-built. Then a few days ago I made three modifications:


1.) First I "barn-doored" the hinges with tape. Now there is very free movement of the control surfaces with plenty of deflection, and consequently control.

2.) Next I installed a nice "pull-pull" control system with dental floss connections. I hooked it up to the control surfaces with a toothpick stuck through the surface, and the floss wrapped around and then glued. Kind of surprisingly, I found that hot glue worked very well for the job. It dries fast, is easy to work with, and so far holds well.

3.) I also added dihedral to the wings with a fishing line running from the ends of the wings, tied to small dowels attached with tape to the wing tips so that the string was taut about 2.25 inches above the center of the wings. This seems to be a standard addition, and really helps the rudder effectiveness.


Thanks to these changes, I can fly longer and better. It's a great, relaxing plane.

Point of note: I am using a six-cell batter pack, a Feather receiver, an IC-5A ESC with BEC, and two HS-55 servos. This setup works quite nicely, though I wouldn't doubt that seven cells would be an improvement; it seems a little bit underpowered at times. I ordered the Dymond three-bladed prop, and will be trying that next.


I just started flying this model and love it. This is my first park-flyer, and I observe the radio frequency issue. I also fly gas power at a designated and well-used flying field, so am aware of all that goes on.

The Lite Stik is great, but I was wondering what input people have about other models. How's the GWS Tiger Moth? Eventually I think I'll go either Tiny or Micro Mustang. Can either of these planes run with the same radio gear as mentioned above that I use with the Lite Stik? What other, probably more aerobatic airframes, are reccommended, especially that work with the same gear?

Thanks, and talk to y'all later.

:) :D ;) :p :cool:

[LazarWulf]

More tests...

On 6 cells there was no way to fly my plane. I have no idea what the deal is. I tried new batts and esc. Still no luck. After switching to 7 cells she flew great.

This weekend I switched to a 12x6 prop. I think it was a 6 pitch.. It was definately larger than stock with a increased pitch.

WOW ! She is a beast now! I can fly as high as I want. Heck I had her up about 100ft in the air then cut the throttle to coast to about 15 ft, full throttled again to rise up to about 40ft and circled around. Havent tried a loop, but I bet I could do one. Flight times are only about 5 minutes or so. Obviously, because I am using such a large prop.

She is flying great now. Having a blast too..

-Twain

[ameittunen]

can it take off from the ground?

[wallasan10]

I found that my lite-stick type plane flew much better on slightly larger cell's.
While they do start off at the same voltage the smaller cell's drop off almost instantly to a lower voltage.
My plane needed 7x110mah to fly but will do MUCH better on 6x250mah or 6x270mah and even 6x350mah.
Mostly I fly on 6x250's and get 8 or 9 min. of good, fun flying. Climb all I want, touch and goes ect.
You say you are useing 150's and while I havent tried those they are getting close to the 110's that gave me the same problems you describe.
Also that 12x6 prop and 7 cell's will not make for a long and happy life for you'r motor. Check the front of the large gear on you'r gearbox, if it has an "A" molded into it you need a 10x4.7 or a 9x7 prop for good performance and long life. I it has a "B", "C" or "D" molded into it then that's another story.
Randy
P.S. I just realized that this post is from last july!@! Well maybe it will help someone new.