motor break in question ?

[razz rich]

I have a monster touring car motor. That I just threw it in without breakin it in. The first 10 runs she ripped! I'm talkin' 30+ mph! Now she's barely gettin' maybe 25? And another question how are indi esc's?

[Sharkey]

is it a monster horsepower stock??? 10 runs sounds about right, they usualy slow down after that. you can replace the brushes and have the comm cut, and it will be as good as new.

[razz rich]

Nam it's a 15t dbl. It slowed down alot.

[Sharkey]

thats about normal. sounds like its time for a comm cut and new brushes.

[highroller]

There could be several things that caused the slow down in speed.
1. Gearing - can't gear modifieds (those before 17 turns even some 18 turn) like a stock motor you may want to start somewhere at a 16 or 17 and add 1 tooth until you achieve consistant acceleration and speed while motor stays at a good temperature (not extremely hot).
2. Brushes- regardless of how a motor is used the brushes need some breakin before use, operating without breakin causes brush to arc excessively, bounce on comm, builds up heat which prevents the brush from conducting good current - motor slows down.
3. If motor came with silver or black springs, those may be too light most mod in the 13-17 turn range need a stiffer brush spring, try a Trinity Red on the positive and negative. I'd use the Red springs as a preventitive measure to ensure it's the proper tension.
All you may have to do is clean up the motor with motor spray - clean comm with a comm cleaning stick - change brushes and springs and gear it correctly. For laydown brushes try Trinity 4490 or Reedy 760 less comm wear, for a little more power and medium comm wear Trinity 4500 or Reedy 766 the trinity 4499 and Reedy 767 are high power, high comm wear and only should be used if you have access to a comm lathe. For standup go with Reedy 729 or 732 the trinity 4383 and Reedy 737 are race brushes or people with lathes. If you are familar with setting timing, with adjustable endbell mod motors, reduce the timing to zero during brush breakin - reduces excessive arcing and heat buildup. You can ruin a set of brushes if too much heat is built up or brush arcs excessively.

[razz rich]

Thankx Highroller! I'm gonna need a lathe to do that ain't I? I wonder if my lhs will do it? Oh is the comm a part of the armature or what?

[madd_tmaxx]

yea it is it is the copper band on the end

[highroller]

The armature is the part with the wire bundle and the commutator (referred to as comm) is the copper round object. Describing things online is sometimes harder than in person especially with guys just getting into the hobby. Yes it's possible to have your LHS do it if they have such a service - but leave the disassembley to someone with experience. With some motors before you take them apart mark the orientation (one endbell screw with a corresponding mark on the motor can) of the way it's put together to aid in re-assembly - go in right direction and have the correct timing. If armature and comm were subjected to extreme wear it's possible to just buy a replacement armature - saving you the cost of a complete motor.

[razz rich]

Does Tower sell them? If not where could I find them? My lhs is mostly nitro not too many elec. parts. Mostly tires, wheels, and batt. I can't even buy screws and belts for my car. I gotta drive almost 40 miles for electric parts.

[razz rich]

Highroller, your info is great, but what is timing,How could I be sure? And if my timing is off what will happen?

[highroller]

Some of the Trinity motors use a endbell that has segments made in the plastic each representing 6 degrees, others have a dimple or indention molded in right where the mounting screw is located, where it located from the zero degree mark is the amount of timing the motor is set at. To find the zero timing mark, look at the mounting screw holes on the output shaft end of motor - the middle point between each (using an imaginery line is the center point of each magnet that represents the Zero degree timing mark. Holding motor so the positive terminal is to the left - where the slot or endbell screw is located is the amount of timing - 1/8 inch = roughly 5 degrees. Manufacturers set the timing at varing amounts from 12 to 24 degrees from the factory depending on what amount of timing yields the best rpm/torque. Sometimes it's not the right amount for actual use - can be too much or too low for competitive racing. Measure the distance from the 0 degree mark, to where the dimple or endbell screw is located - this will give the amount of timing. The label is usually not a good indicator.

[highroller]

Tower does carry replacement endbell for the Trinity (Epic) line of motors. Just get a standard armature, there is no real difference in the Pro version. Go to Towers website, click on the manufactures index - the T and under Trinity there is a listing for armatures going this route saves clicking and indexing. Or try clicking on machine wound motors under the Trinity index.

You can mark the can for ease of dis-assembly and reassembly. Use a permanant marker, mark or color one endbell screw, and a area on the motor can - so when you put motor back together you have a reference point. Mark the point on can that represents Zero timing- you'll want to rotate endbell (adjustable endbell motors) to this point during brush breakin (reduces arcing and heat buildup) then return it to the normal timing location after breakin. I either scratch the area or use a motor timing guage to be exact and color one of the endbell screws to be sure motor is put back in right orientation.