Kyosho V-One S and V-One R v2.0

[mckrooz]

Hey guys, I made this gear ratio table for you guys to use if you need it. Print it out and keep it in your pit box:)

[ExtremeDuty]

Hey, guys.

Plz somebody give me an answer... I asked before
Would it be OK to run front dog bones? or should I get the universal axles now?

Are there any option parts you recommed for RR?
I plan to run a bone stock RR with RB V12.
It is very tempting to try moving my Reflex aluminum parts into RR.


Thanks in advance,

ED

[VWNTC3]

Why doesn't kyosho offer taller 2nd gearing for the new Evo. I currently have the 27/55 2nd gear setup, but this only gives you a ratio of 2.04:1, even my reflex has slightly taller gearing 22/44 2.00:1. What's the point of finer .8 pitch gears if there aren't enough gears to choose from?

Kyosho...At least give us a 28/54 2nd or even a 29/53 or some combination so we can get some more top-end...please!!!

[uaerc]

ExtremeDuty,

If you have the V one RR you dont really need any modifications on it untill you have wear and tear the front dog bones are fine. Once u decide to put int he front one way then may b u can add the universal shafts.

Mckrooz

Is this the same for the V one RR gears ? ? can you please share the calculation formula...

Kingwillie

I have just been on the Nova Site and it has a NSR 12 S5 as you had told me earlier to get the NS 12 S5 ...... these two dont look different from each other all the specs seem to be same as per the site.....I wonder what the difference is ?? It could be AAC piston to use higher Nitros ?? dont know..... PrecisionRc has it for 245$ (nsr 12 S5)

PCC

waht engine you use in your car......have you ever checked your top speed?

Regards
Aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

Hey, thanks for the comment on front dog bones...

Did you mean to say "RS12 S5" and "NS12 S5"?
I checked the NovaRossi web site but didn't see any engine with
"NRS 12S5" name.

All I know is that "NS" engine is a newer one and it has slightly
higher output.


Someone familiar with NovaRossi engine should be able to clarify.

ED.

[PCC]

Originally posted by uaerc
PCC

waht engine you use in your car......have you ever checked your top speed?

Regards
Aziz Back in the day, I used to run a ported RB Concepts X12 five port in my V-One R. My RR has a heavily ported MT12 in it. Nope, never clocked it.

[uaerc]

Hi Ed

Here is the link to the engines i mentioned.

http://www.novarossi.it/Listino/pubblic_price_list.htm

[ExtremeDuty]

Originally posted by uaerc
Hi Ed

Here is the link to the engines i mentioned.

http://www.novarossi.it/Listino/pubblic_price_list.htm

OK, I see now. The price list does have "NSR" engine listed.
The latest engine I heard was "RR" long stroke engines.
Since the price list says "new", NSR engines must be the newest
of the latest engines...:D

Somebody plz explaine on the engine differences.


Ed.

[jgjonjg]

Hello,

My name is Jon, and I live in Northern Japan. This year Kyosho had a 40th year anniversary campaign here. They were to give 40000yen to 40 people. After sending in many postcards, I was lucky enough to win.

Now I am able to buy 40,000 yen worth of parts for free. I have two racers. V-one RR and V-one S. I am hoping to buy all the necessary parts to convert my RR into an evolution. Has anybody out there bought an evolution conversion kit, who could post a list of ALL the necessary parts, not just what is posted on Kyosho�fs home page.

Any help would be appreciated, I only got the 40th parts list on Friday, but I have to order by December 15 2003.

Thanks.

[FirstLoser]

Question.....



I am wondering if anyone knows of a good place in the US or overseas to order parts fot eh Kyosho V-one RR EVo at? I know Tower has some of them, but most of them are on back order until lat Dec or Late Jan.


Thanks

[mckrooz]

Originally posted by uaerc
ExtremeDuty,

Mckrooz

Is this the same for the V one RR gears ? ? can you please share the calculation formula...

Regards
Aziz

This table is for the the R and RR only. It does not include the Evo. I got the calculation from this formula:


Spur
Pinion = Gear ratio

Gear ratio x 2.52(internal transmission ratio)= Final Drive Ratio

[uaerc]

Originally posted by FirstLoser
Question.....

I am wondering if anyone knows of a good place in the US or overseas to order parts fot eh Kyosho V-one RR EVo at? I know Tower has some of them, but most of them are on back order until lat Dec or Late Jan.


Thanks

Hi Firstloser / Jon

Try this. they are well organised and their prices seems to be competitive. You can find 3 Racing Hop up Parts.

Jonjg
You can get an idea what to order from this link as well.

http://precisionrc.com/cgi-bin/cart.pl?BR=3R1&DT=4

Regards
Aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

Originally posted by jgjonjg
Hello,

My name is Jon, and I live in Northern Japan. This year Kyosho had a 40th year anniversary campaign here. They were to give 40000yen to 40 people. After sending in many postcards, I was lucky enough to win.

Now I am able to buy 40,000 yen worth of parts for free. I have two racers. V-one RR and V-one S. I am hoping to buy all the necessary parts to convert my RR into an evolution. Has anybody out there bought an evolution conversion kit, who could post a list of ALL the necessary parts, not just what is posted on Kyosho�fs home page.

Any help would be appreciated, I only got the 40th parts list on Friday, but I have to order by December 15 2003.

Thanks.

Why don't just order the Kyosho's EVO upgrade package?
Also I think each part in EVO pkg is listed in Kyosho web page.
by the way, congrats on winning that money!

[jgjonjg]

Originally posted by ExtremeDuty
Why don't just order the Kyosho's EVO upgrade package?
Also I think each part in EVO pkg is listed in Kyosho web page.
by the way, congrats on winning that money!

Thanks for the reply.

Dude! I wish it were that easy, I am not able to do so. Kyosho sent me a parts list to choose from. The conversion kit is not on it. It did however have everything else. After downloading the plans for the Evo, I have decided to keep my V-one RR the same, I kinda like it. I have decided, and ordered enough parts to be able to make an evolution, by stripping some of the upgrade parts from my V-one S (shocks diffs staby's etc. not much really)

One word on Campaigns, I don't know if Kyosho does it in America, but incase they ever do, keep all your bar-codes from your parts packs, just in case. LOL

[mc68]

y not, its worth it, i got mine from harmony in HK, for 215AUS delieverd. heres a couple of pic of it.

http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL210/1653554/3183533/40064427.jpg

http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL210/1653554/3183533/40064423.jpg

[Godspeed]

Can a V1RR Evo take a side exhaust engine?

[mc68]

pretty sure it can.

[uaerc]

Hi

I think I have a leak in my rear diff...... what should I do is there any way i can fix it. I think I might have one of those screw's tightened up too much thats the reason for the leak ?

is there a hop up for the rear diff......

i might put in the front one way.........

[mckrooz]

Where is the leak coming from? Is it coming from the outdrives or where the two halves meet? Try some RTV silicone to seal it up. I use it all the time and no leaks.

[uaerc]

Hi

I think its from the nuts/screws which was overtightened.........

[uaerc]

Originally posted by mc68
y not, its worth it, i got mine from harmony in HK, for 215AUS delieverd. heres a couple of pic of it.


Mc68

Nice.......

can you tell me what springs you are using? also if you have pictures of your Car exactly from the rear angle so i can see your setup. thats if you dont mind....... i just need to setup my car shock towers and also the front......

As my car always skids of the track while turning i was using foams......now i have shifter to radials...... with hard inserts...... still handlingi s a bit difficult.....

Hope you can post some rear and front end closeups

regards
Aziz

[PCC]

Originally posted by Godspeed
Can a V1RR Evo take a side exhaust engine? Yes, it can but the placement of the belt means that the manifold will be quite long, making tuning with the pipe difficult. Kyosho makes a side-exhaust manifold specifically for the R that isn't as long as some manifolds I have seen (especially the NovaMega one) but it's still quite long.

[mckrooz]

Looking for a V-One R 2 speed tranny. So if anyone has done the Evo conversion and has this 2 speed laying around, help a brotha out! Has to be complete. Throw me an offer.

[mc68]

Originally posted by uaerc
Mc68

Nice.......

can you tell me what springs you are using? also if you have pictures of your Car exactly from the rear angle so i can see your setup. thats if you dont mind....... i just need to setup my car shock towers and also the front......

As my car always skids of the track while turning i was using foams......now i have shifter to radials...... with hard inserts...... still handlingi s a bit difficult.....

Hope you can post some rear and front end closeups

regards
Aziz

mate that car hasnt been run much, the setup is crap im gettin a setup station for xmas, and the normal black springs r cumin in, those yellow ones r shite, first im gonna follow the team kyosho setup that came with the evo conversion, and go on from there.

[MiCkLe207]

Please don't be biased...
I'm going to buy an on-road r/c and I'm going to decide between these two on feb 2004.
Which car is better? the Kyosho V-one RR Evo or the Serpent 710?
I'm looking for the following:
-reliability
-durability
-speed
-handling
-performance

btw, Here in Bangkok, Thailand it's easier to get kyosho parts, although serpents are also available, but a bit more difficult to find.

[Godspeed]

Originally posted by PCC
Yes, it can but the placement of the belt means that the manifold will be quite long, making tuning with the pipe difficult. Kyosho makes a side-exhaust manifold specifically for the R that isn't as long as some manifolds I have seen (especially the NovaMega one) but it's still quite long.

Hi there PCC, do you have the part no. for the kyosho manifold? Thanks. :)

[uaerc]

Guys would anyoen would be kind enough to post some close up pictures of the v one RR setup.......i need to see how you guys setup so that i can get some ideaa..............

please post.......

cheers
aziz

[KingWillie]

Originally posted by uaerc
Guys would anyoen would be kind enough to post some close up pictures of the v one RR setup.......i need to see how you guys setup so that i can get some ideaa..............

please post.......

cheers
aziz

There are set-up sheets available from KYOSHO on their home page. Is that what you are looking for? If so here is the link, V1RR set up sheet (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/setting/data/v_one_rr_1120.pdf) .

[pleaseletmeon34]

"Posted by NiMo on another tread"


No.VZ004H
Carbon composite rear suspension arm
* For V-One S/RR/RR Evo. /FW-05

Any body know where to get this part???

[TheScum]

Does anyone have the conversion rates between weightages of shock oils between the american and japanese standards. Thanks

[mc68]

Originally posted by ExtremeDuty
OK, I see now. The price list does have "NSR" engine listed.
The latest engine I heard was "RR" long stroke engines.
Since the price list says "new", NSR engines must be the newest
of the latest engines...:D

Somebody plz explaine on the engine differences.


Ed.

NSR12 S5 do excist mate, dont know much about em, but there out there

[ExtremeDuty]

Originally posted by mc68
NSR12 S5 do excist mate, dont know much about em, but there out there

On the Novarossi web page, there is no explanation, but several Asian web stores say "NSR" is an approved version of "NS".

I just don't understand why NovaRossi makes so many kinds of variants. They really need to simplify product line like RB...
I bet they don't have a good marketing dept.

[mc68]

dont diss the best microengine manufacturer in the world mate:D

[uaerc]

Hi all........ :p

I think i have a big problem with my rear diff......i started it yesterday and put it on to just rev the engine and the car didnt move. the engine was revving but the car not budging .....i thought the clutch is gone .........later i check the diff's and they were locked completly the car wouldnt even move forward if i pushed it......dont know what happened......... If i need to change my rear diffs whats the best hop up for it. and what oil should i put in it....

any good hop up that could save the cost ?


regards
aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

After month long of hesitation and thinking, I ended up getting a Sirio .12 turbo engine. I was happy until I saw the price of piston/sleeve...$100.
Man, this sucks... I pay $125 for the entire engine and they charge me $100 for pston/sleeve???
I'm sure I will be better to buy an O.S. 12TR with the piston/sleeve replacement money.

For this same reason, I didn't want buy Novarossi, Picco, RB, etc...highend engines, but anyway I trapped myself.

I guess now I can start putting my RR together.


Hey, how long does an engine really last? I mean piston/sleeve?
'Cause I never used any engine until it requires piston/sleeve replacement. So far I've had 8 engines, and always sold them as used.

[ExtremeDuty]

Originally posted by uaerc
Hi all........ :p

I think i have a big problem with my rear diff......i started it yesterday and put it on to just rev the engine and the car didnt move. the engine was revving but the car not budging .....i thought the clutch is gone .........later i check the diff's and they were locked completly the car wouldnt even move forward if i pushed it......dont know what happened......... If i need to change my rear diffs whats the best hop up for it. and what oil should i put in it....

any good hop up that could save the cost ?


regards
aziz

Hey, Aziz...
Only option I know is the Kawahara negative rear diff.
Did you take apart the rear diff? I recommend you finding the root cause of failure rather than just getting an option.
Let us know what you find.


Ed.

[mc68]

those of u who have got kyosho 3d clutches, is the trans sposed to spin freely with no throttle, coz my clutch is locked on?????? what should i do to stop this....:(

[jgjonjg]

Assuming the obvious isn�ft true, and that your engine is broken in properly, and that your throttle stop screw is set to a low enough idling speed, and your linkage is all OK then remove the clutch bell and check the tension of the spring inside, there is a rotating collar to adjust your spring. I cannot remember if it is too tight or loose that makes the clutch engage completely, but I think it is tight. So try loosening. Mine works great with the top 2 or 3 threads showing.

Happy tuning.

[uaerc]

Originally posted by KingWillie
There are set-up sheets available from KYOSHO on their home page. Is that what you are looking for? If so here is the link, V1RR set up sheet (http://www.kyosho.co.jp/setting/data/v_one_rr_1120.pdf) . .

Hi KW

Just looking out for some Pitures, to see how the guys setup the cars......I got those sheets with my cars manual........looking at the pictures gives me a better idea. Post some if you have the close ups

Rgds
Aziz

[filipinoguy]

Here are some shots of my VoneS.

http://home.comcast.net/~seanmicd/DCP_2211.JPG http://home.comcast.net/~seanmicd/DCP_2217.JPG http://home.comcast.net/~seanmicd/DCP_2216.JPG http://home.comcast.net/~seanmicd/DCP_2214.JPG http://home.comcast.net/~seanmicd/DCP_2213.JPG http://home.comcast.net/~seanmicd/DCP_2228.JPG

[filipinoguy]

with body

http://home.comcast.net/~seanmicd/DCP_2183.JPG http://home.comcast.net/~seanmicd/DCP_2188.JPG

[Shiznick]

Hey guys I 've been out of the sport for awhile, a year and a half. I have a brand new V one RR with a JP Racing SX 12. I see that the V one RR has an Evo upgrade. What are the upgrades? Are they worth it? I have a few Kawahara hop ups on my V one RR. Anyone from Northern Cali (Bay Area) Colma area???

thanks for your time......

[Shiznick]

Hey guys I 've been out of the sport for awhile, a year and a half. I have a brand new V one RR with a JP Racing SX 12. I see that the V one RR has an Evo upgrade. What are the upgrades? Are they worth it? I have a few Kawahara hop ups on my V one RR. Anyone from Northern Cali (Bay Area) Colma area???

thanks for your time......

[PCC]

You're near me. I'm in Daly City. You ever race at Colma BART?

The RR is a good car as it is. The Evo conversion keeps the rear half of the car but almost everything else up front is different, including the chassis. What Kawahara parts do you have on your car?

[Shiznick]

Hey is this Peter???

[Shiznick]

Reading some of your posts this has to be Peter. Also If I recall PCC was your HPI forum user name. This is Eddie from Broadway Prime. How are you???? How's your brother?? I live in Antioch now (due to a divorce). I haven't played with any of my cars for about 2 years. I talked to Sherman last week and asked about you. I wanted to know who still was in Nitro's. I stopped by RC Tech and saw Lawrence. He told me about the NEW shop at Geary. And then I saw Eric and Wes at there NEW shop, WOW. I stopped by Delta this weekend and saw Old School at the buggy track. I asked about Colma and Sherman says most of the guys went to 1/8. And that they have plans to run a track this summer, that's cool. This is what I have now:

(1) V one RR with a the JP Racing SX 12 ( I think you saw that engine). The car is has is brand new the engine never broke in. .

(2) My old Yokomo with the Pico/Offna 7 port with about 7 tanks of gas in it. I was breaking it in when my one way bearing went out. Have an extra RB 5 Port custom mod (by you know who). Man, I love that carb.

(3)Mugen MRX-3 that was built for the enduro race. Needs an engine.

(4)Mugen MBX-XR buggy (Joey's old one).

Sold Herman's old TC3 and gave my brother in law my V one R.

This is my question all my cars were kept clean and after run was put in all the engines. They look good. I remember you always telling me to empty the gas tank and add after run. When starting the Yok and buggy should I let the engine run at idle for a few tanks??? Then should I run lean and richen it out slowly?
I know you an expert and any advise from you would be a great.
Good hearing from you PCC and tell your brother I said hi.

[PCC]

I was wondering what happened to you, Eddie. Good to hear from you. Sorry to hear about the divorce. You still at BPrime?

Yeah, idle the engines for a tank or two but back out the needles a half turn to a full turn first. This way the engine runs rich. Remember, running rich is better than running too lean. You might have some residual fuel in the carb and stuff. If so the engine might not move fuel, in which case you would need to strip the carb down and clean it out.

About the new engine, check to make sure it is still in good shape. I have a brand new engine that I never installed and the oil they put in it hardened and now the main bearing is seized.

Hey, did you post a similar question on Nitroreview's forums? I know the guys who run that site.

BTW, way back when, we were talking about getting a mill. We got it and Herman's been making some killer parts for his Dominator out of 7075 T6. I've been looking into making some parts for my RR but my skills aren't anywhere close to what Herman's been putting out.

[Shiznick]

So you guys got a mill. Cool, is it a CNC? What kind of parts is Herman making?? I was a RC Tech today ordered some parts for the Yok.

Well, all the motors look good not to much residue. I kept them pretty clean. Carbs look good too.

Nitroreview ???? which web site is that. Well it's good hearing from you. I'll get your # from MILF and let's hook up. You guys still have a the MRX-3, right???? I want to see some of Herman's stuff.

[mckrooz]

Anyone know where to find this online?

[Jackal]

Just want to share the picture my V1RR Evo with you all.

[skillfully good]

Jackal,
Is that a novarossi 3port engine? How's the performance?

[skillfully good]

Sway bars
What is the use and what type of track should you use this?

Drive belts
When racing, what belt normally breaks? so that I will buy extra

Thanks

:)

[Jackal]

Originally posted by skillfully good
Jackal,
Is that a novarossi 3port engine? How's the performance?
It's a Nova Max 5 port engine. Modified engine by Massimo Fantini.

[mckrooz]

Originally posted by Jackal
Just want to share the picture my V1RR Evo with you all.

Sweet car and a bad ass motor. Get yourself the Reflex tank, MTX-3 engine mounts, and flywheel for some extra low CG.

[Jackal]

Originally posted by mckrooz
Sweet car and a bad ass motor. Get yourself the Reflex tank, MTX-3 engine mounts, and flywheel for some extra low CG.
Most of the Trinity guys over here had changed to Kyosho tank because they complaint that the Reflex tank could easily leaked after a while.

[ExtremeDuty]

Beside Kyosho's 2-speed pinion gears, is there any compatible pinion gears with Kyosho's clutchbell???

V-1-RR's stock pinion gears are $10 each while HPI's R40 pinion gear is only $4.

[ExtremeDuty]

I'm almost done with assembling V-1-RR now.

One thing very strange is that middlen (side) belt is waaay tooo tight. Since it's very tight, the whole chassis is under tension and the bottom of chassis is not flat...

Also, there seems to be too much slack in the front belt.

All belts are RR special ones.

[PCC]

First question: No, you can only use the Kyosho gears because they use constant-radius gears on these cars (the outside diameter of all of the first gears are the same despite the tooth count being different).

Second question: Did you use the 27T or 25T front pulley on the side belt? The RR and RR Evo use the 25T front pulley and has a shorter belt to compensate. Did you use the correct rear pulley for the side belt (forgot the tooth count).

[ExtremeDuty]

Originally posted by PCC
First question: No, you can only use the Kyosho gears because they use constant-radius gears on these cars (the outside diameter of all of the first gears are the same despite the tooth count being different).

Second question: Did you use the 27T or 25T front pulley on the side belt? The RR and RR Evo use the 25T front pulley and has a shorter belt to compensate. Did you use the correct rear pulley for the side belt (forgot the tooth count).

PCC, thanks for the good insight!

I will check the front pully teeth numbers. This problme could come from the fact I'm using Reflex NT's front diff w/ pully.
I had to transplant to save some money and didn't want to use front one-way with my "suckie-suckie" drive skills.

Last night, I tried to swap RR main chassis to Reflex one, and the hyper belt tension problem is gone and everything seems to be very happy.

Reflex NT's front pully shaft mounting position is about 1/16" or 1 mm behind compared to RR's.

[TheScum]

Originally posted by TheScum
Does anyone have the conversion rates between weightages of shock oils between the american and japanese standards. Thanks


had posed this question to Todd Hodge of Team Losi and must say the man is a gem. Took the time to help, kudos mate.... Asked him for the equivalent of Team Mugen's 350 weightage and he said that this should be close to Team Losi's 35 watts.

did some further reading and turns out the oil weightages are defined using the same metrics (someone correct me if this is wrong).
Japanese brands tend to prefer representing this in milligrade, while their American counterparts prefer centrigrade (akin to centimeters and millimeters)

[ExtremeDuty]

This project has been a great joy for me, since Michigan had a especially long winter months...

I uploaded pictures at imagestation.
address is "http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4287698027".

I finished almost except receiver compartment and body painting.
For setup, I used most common settings and followed some of
baseline settings provided in manual.

How does the front "blade" type sway bar work?
I've been looking at that thing and still not sure how exactly it
would work like the conventional wire sway bars.


I can't wait until summer starts in Michigan!!!
FYI, in Michigan, there are only two seasons....LOL.
Summer and winter.

[TheScum]

Heya,
just got myself a integy digital weight distribution system and have encountered some weight issues...

The front and rear lefts and rights are not even.... the variances are in the range of more than 100g.... there's also more static weight in the rear than front. Though, when adding the weights between left and right, they about balance off.

My droop and shock settings are symmetrical.

Is this normal...

Thanks

[ExtremeDuty]

I'm not sure about V-1's specifically, but based on my electric touring car experience...

Left & right weight distribution is always different with stock configuration. Even if the car chassis is designed to be perfect
Left to Right balance, eletronic equipment including battery, servo,
ESC, and motor does not balance each other.

One time, I tried to do L & R balance on TC3 and XXX-S with all
components' weight measured. With added weights, I was able
to balance it but ended up having a significantly heavier car since
the weight differential was a quiat big.
I personally didn't notice any handling changes ( at least my skill can not tell the handling difference), but could feel delayed feeling in acceleration.

On Engine cars, I've never paid attention to weight distribution.
So far, all of my engine cars have exactly same left to right handling.

If I remember correctly, pro electric drivers use weights to make the car legal weight mainly while the weight also serving for weight balance.


About more weight on rear side...
I believe it's normal or it was intended to be that way. Even though all touring cars are permanent 4WD, you want to have more weight or force exerted on rear wheels under acceleration.

[TheScum]

Thanks a mil extreme duty,

coz you're right, i certainly don't feel a change in handling (any bias for left or right), at least for my skills :)

[TheScum]

with regards to the tweak issue,
so happens that the second integy weight scale came in via post yesterday.... sure does reduce the effort between balancing lefts and rights.

Turns out that the imbalance as reported earlier was a result of inconsistent rear droop settings. Am happy to report (after adding a dummy transponder) that the fronts are in perfect balance at 370g each side.

The rear is slightly off by about 54g.
Solved this, adjusted this by lengthening the right and reducing the left shock collars.

For those of us who love figures (weight was measured with everything on minus fuel and tires).

Left Front : 5.0mm, 370g
Right Front: 5.0mm, 370g

Left Rear: 6.97mm, 464g
Rigth Rear: 6.25mm, 466g


At the risk of sounding pro-Kyosho, turns out that this evo kit's very well balanced.... Have a good one y'all :)

[ExtremeDuty]

Except for those who live in warmer states, any one running V-1's yet?

I was going to break-in my new motor but this crazy Michigan Winter/Spring got me again.

[uaerc]

Hi

I got a problem whenever i am racing and at any given turn my car slips.....i have to be really slow to not make it slip......i know this is a setting problem...... i took it to one of the shops who adjusted the camber and caster......but he mentioned that the i need to change the shock oils and diff oils......is this true..... do i need to do that..... ? springs ? etc.......what tools do i need to ac*uire...... and stuff like that......... guys help... i need to learn this and do it my self.

Regards
Aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi

I got a problem whenever i am racing and at any given turn my car slips.....i have to be really slow to not make it slip......i know this is a setting problem...... i took it to one of the shops who adjusted the camber and caster......but he mentioned that the i need to change the shock oils and diff oils......is this true..... do i need to do that..... ? springs ? etc.......what tools do i need to ac*uire...... and stuff like that......... guys help... i need to learn this and do it my self.

Regards
Aziz


I didn't have a chance to run my new V-1-RR yet but based on my Reflex NT (V-1-R copy), the base setting or typical touring car setting should make your car very stable. Are you running foam tires? I didn't try any rubber tires with Reflex NT.

Regarding shock-oil weight & diff oil weight, the stock setup should be just fine. I usually use between 50 -60 for all touring cars.

What are your general settings?

I use F/R cambers between 1 - 2 negative, 0 - (-1) front toe-out, 2.5 - 3.0 rear toe-in (degrees). So far this generic settings have worked great for me for years.

If you're slipping rear end, you need more traction at rear. Try to make the rear-end more soft with spring/shock oil change or simply just get better tires.
However, before you buy/change any hardware, I would check all of settings.

Good luck!

I can't wait to run my V-1-RR this year~~~
:D

[elcid4300]

Hello evrybody,

Was just kinda hoping that someone could recommend some decent tires for my "play" V1S. It'll be used on dusty, unprepared parking lots. I was looking at the HPI belted Advans, any good? I'd like a tire that provides decent traction and will last a while. Any help would be greatly appreciated :)

Thanks!

[ExtremeDuty]

Hello evrybody,

Was just kinda hoping that someone could recommend some decent tires for my "play" V1S. It'll be used on dusty, unprepared parking lots. I was looking at the HPI belted Advans, any good? I'd like a tire that provides decent traction and will last a while. Any help would be greatly appreciated :)

Thanks!

Even if I don't have a V-1-S, for nitro touring cars, any sticky tires from respectable manufacturers should be good. Since you are running on dusty parting lots, even good sticky tires will have hard time finding traction.

I would use any good electric touring car tires with slightly harder tire inner foam front & back. But use little harder one on front.

So far, I mainly used ones from pro-line racing & HPI just because they are available almost everywhere.

I guess I'm not helping you much... :confused:

[uaerc]

I didn't have a chance to run my new V-1-RR yet but based on my Reflex NT (V-1-R copy), the base setting or typical touring car setting should make your car very stable. Are you running foam tires? I didn't try any rubber tires with Reflex NT.

Regarding shock-oil weight & diff oil weight, the stock setup should be just fine. I usually use between 50 -60 for all touring cars.

What are your general settings?

I use F/R cambers between 1 - 2 negative, 0 - (-1) front toe-out, 2.5 - 3.0 rear toe-in (degrees). So far this generic settings have worked great for me for years.


I can't wait to run my V-1-RR this year~~~
:D

Hi Extreme Duty.

I was using foam tires early but since we have a very dusty hot climate here they usually wear out real quickly, therefore I have migrated to HPI belted tires...with hard inserts. I am running a VoneRR stock with a OS TR 12 engine 15% nitro. I built this baby myself last year and followed the manual 100% as for the differnetials I remember the manaul instructs us to mix the oils while building. the springs are stock and camber and castor were adjusted by the shop when i got the new tires.
do you know where I can get a tool to setup the car or should I say what tools do i neeed to setup the car---any links to read how to setup touring cars.....

Cheers
Aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

Aziz,

If you will be running touring cars either nitro or electric, a setup tool will be your best tool/friend.

I bought "Hudy" setup system about 3 years ago. I used it with my two TC3's, XXX-S, Super nitro RS-4, Reflex NT, and V-1-RR.
I think there are 3-4 different companies that offer those setup systems.

Some people don't like Hudy system since they are made of plexi glass, which can be relatively fragile. (www.hudy.net). Personally I didn't have any problem so far.
I heard Integy's system is good. (www.integy.com) You can browse it under "team tool" section and its system is machined out of aluminum.

Whichever you choose to go with, it will be a very valueable tool.

[dtcng]

Hey all

Just wondering if anyone has any articles on the v-one-r and what mods would you list as no1 priority?

I got my v-one-r off a friend and have had it for about 6 months.

The worst thing about it was not getting an instruction manual but thats fixed.

The best thing about this car was how quick it went before parts failed.

Many Thanks

Wayne

[ExtremeDuty]

Hey all

Just wondering if anyone has any articles on the v-one-r and what mods would you list as no1 priority?

I got my v-one-r off a friend and have had it for about 6 months.

The worst thing about it was not getting an instruction manual but thats fixed.

The best thing about this car was how quick it went before parts failed.

Many Thanks

Wayne

You can get V-1-R manuals & setting data at Kyosho, Japan web site easily. I think RC Car Action once had one or two articles about V-1-R. I don't think they are really useful. They were just reviews & tests.

For parts failing, any vehicles part will fail once they hit their limits. What I've been hearing from V-1-R & Reflex NT board is that V-1-R's stock parts are very good and they really don't require swapping aftermarking alunimum parts. I absolutely agree!

Since I had a Reflex NT and now a V-1-RR, I have several pairs of front/rear suspension parts for this year's racing season.

If you run your car on unprepared parking lots, just don't get aluminum pullies. Ones on my Reflex NT were wearing down faster than the car itself!

[uaerc]

Aziz,

If you will be running touring cars either nitro or electric, a setup tool will be your best tool/friend.

I bought "Hudy" setup system about 3 years ago. I used it with my two TC3's, XXX-S, Super nitro RS-4, Reflex NT, and V-1-RR.
I think there are 3-4 different companies that offer those setup systems.

Some people don't like Hudy system since they are made of plexi glass, which can be relatively fragile. (www.hudy.net). Personally I didn't have any problem so far.
I heard Integy's system is good. (www.integy.com) You can browse it under "team tool" section and its system is machined out of aluminum.

Whichever you choose to go with, it will be a very valueable tool.

I checked out both..they look cool. I have also ordered the xxx main chasis setup guide last week from Tower. probably it will be of some help to me, thats what i read on the reviews and stuff.

This is what i think you were talking about..*Team Alignment Setup Station for 1/10 touring car w/ Carrying Case.

Also saw the HUDY Universal setup tool. looks nice but as you said its plastic.

which is the most easiest to follow and works great too..?

Regards
Aziz

[Godspeed]

Yo People, I am looking to buy some 3 Racing options for my RR Evo. Are there any good online shops out there to recommend?

I was looking at PrecisionRC.com and i must say they have pretty competitive prices. Anyone have any experiences with their services? Thanks for any input. Cheers. :)

[ExtremeDuty]

I checked out both..they look cool. I have also ordered the xxx main chasis setup guide last week from Tower. probably it will be of some help to me, thats what i read on the reviews and stuff.

This is what i think you were talking about..*Team Alignment Setup Station for 1/10 touring car w/ Carrying Case.

Also saw the HUDY Universal setup tool. looks nice but as you said its plastic.

which is the most easiest to follow and works great too..?

Regards
Aziz


I didn't have any problem with Hudy system, but would get one from Integy. Also Integy is cheaper...

I paid close to $130 for that universal Hudy system.

[ExtremeDuty]

Yo People, I am looking to buy some 3 Racing options for my RR Evo. Are there any good online shops out there to recommend?

I was looking at PrecisionRC.com and i must say they have pretty competitive prices. Anyone have any experiences with their services? Thanks for any input. Cheers. :)

RCHub.com also has a good collection of 3Racing option parts. However, their shipping charge is ridiculous! You can't choose regular mail. Only option is like UPS or FedEX. They want me to buy a $10 part and pay $12 shipping. :eek:

So I didn't buy from them. I've been buying off eBay, brand new 3Racing parts.

[TheScum]

Hi All, you could also try these sites:

Directly from 3Racing @ http://www.3racing.com.hk/3racing/index.jsp

and

HK's RC Model http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/index.php

[ExtremeDuty]

I just saw an announcement about V-1-RRR on Kyosho, JP web page.

I just...just couldn't stop laughing~~~ I do understand V-1-R and RR.
But now RRR?

I didn't have time to have it translated in English but anyway most of the specs were "to be announced".

By looking at some of CAD drawings listed there, some of component get re-designed or tweaked.
Since I saw RRR, now I'm waiting for V-2-RRRR :D :D :D

[uaerc]

Extreme Duty..

Even funnier thing is that by the time they end up supplying the v 1 rr Evo to the whole world the V one RRR is launched and when they supply that...then the V 2 RRRR will be available !! :)

Anyway I was just checking on the my V 1 RR the other day and found that the suspension springs were too tight and there was no movement in the springs at all it was that hard.. I have now loosened it completely and will try it out at the parking lot it could be the reason why the car was just skidding of the turns. I saw a setup sheet someone has put on the net he had put gold springs in the rear. does that help. How loose or How tight should the springs be , since the car is setup real low loose spring or suspension makes the car hit the chasis on the ground while driving.

Also, I wanted to know if the diff oil plays a role in the traction somehow ? ? on turns or something..

cheers
Az

[uaerc]

Yo People, I am looking to buy some 3 Racing options for my RR Evo. Are there any good online shops out there to recommend?

I was looking at PrecisionRC.com and i must say they have pretty competitive prices. Anyone have any experiences with their services? Thanks for any input. Cheers. :)

Hi

One of my freinds ordered parts from PrecisionRC and was quite happy.

Regards
Aziz

[Godspeed]

I bought my V1RR Evo few weeks back and i'm halfway through building it and imagine they are coming out with a new version. :rolleyes: I hope they have a conversion kit for it.

Heh, you can never keep up with Kyosho IMO...they are just like computer chips...they go obsolete fast. :D

Anyway you guys can check out the modifications here:

http://www.teamorion.com/global/global_news.asp?id=2348

:)

[ExtremeDuty]

I bought my V1RR Evo few weeks back and i'm halfway through building it and imagine they are coming out with a new version. :rolleyes: I hope they have a conversion kit for it.

Heh, you can never keep up with Kyosho IMO...they are just like computer chips...they go obsolete fast. :D

Anyway you guys can check out the modifications here:

http://www.teamorion.com/global/global_news.asp?id=2348

:)

As long as there is enough RR part supply, I'm gonna stick to RR forever~~~
and then I will buy a V-2-RRRR.

[uaerc]

Extreme Duty..

Anyway I was just checking on the my V 1 RR the other day and found that the suspension springs were too tight and there was no movement in the springs at all it was that hard.. I have now loosened it completely and will try it out at the parking lot it could be the reason why the car was just skidding of the turns. I saw a setup sheet someone has put on the net he had put gold springs in the rear. does that help. How loose or How tight should the springs be , since the car is setup real low loose spring or suspension makes the car hit the chasis on the ground while driving.

Also, I wanted to know if the diff oil plays a role in the traction somehow ? ? on turns or something..

cheers
Az

Can someone answer my question :cool:

[ExtremeDuty]

Can someone answer my question :cool:

I'm too tired to write anything...but... :D

I recommend sticking to the original diff oil. What I've heard is the stock diff oil setup works great for the rest of us. ;)

Front diff oil need to be a heavy weight to tone down over-steering. For rear diff, very light oil or even no oil work just find for 4WD on-road vehicles.
Without heavy front diff oil, RR will do doughnuts all day long.

I know 1/8 buggy guys play with diff oil a lot but I didn't see many people experimenting with diff oil with Nitro touring cars. Personally I would never care... I'm too lazy :o

Rear spring needs to be softer to increase rear traction. for rear suspension droop, I usually give a full droop since the surfaces I run are not perfectly smooth. As traction increases, you can reduce the amount of droop.
You can adjust rear suspension down stops so that the chassis bottom does not touch surfaces.
I don't know Gold spring is softer or harder than stock Black spring.

My Reflex NT's stock springs were quite softer than RR's stock Black springs. Some people didn't like NT's soft springs and switched to RR's Black spring, but I liked the softer spring for better traction on rough road condition.

I'm not really an expert on tunning....I, myself, am still learning.

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi, guys.

I know this is a stupid question...
Do I need to cut both ends of rear body posts base (the long piece where two body posts are connected)?
I tried several bodys, including Stratus body came in box, but this long piece prevents body sitting low enough. In the RR manuel, it didn't say anything about it.

Thanks!

[NiMo]

Hi Guys, long time no speak as I now run the FW05 (since Sept 03).
I ran a V1R for 30 months and only ever had one drive belt break, that was the short front one which lasted for 26 months on a car that was raced or tested almost every weekend.
The class I race in dictates that I run Rubber tyres, Touring shell, 3-port .12 motor with 5.5 carb, 5.2mm pipe and 16% fuel.
Springs: I ran the green 1.9 rear springs (no roll bar) with the kit 'R' black front (RR blade bar - flat) with 35wt oil all round, but if I had to run on a bumpy track I would use the kit 'S' black rear (gold roll bar) and the soft 'S' green up front (RR blade bar - 45). If you use soft springs you must use a roll bar.
Diffs: up front I used 30,000wt and the rear was the Kawahara Negative diff with 600wt oil, the Kawahara diff is a must as it eliminated power on spin outs. The Kyosho LSD unit was undrivable unless you had loads of grip or used foam tyres.
Ride height was 4mm up front and 6mm at rear.
I tried the RR rear end but found the R set up easier to drive with a touring shell, the RR rear only works with foam tyres.

I was going to do a side by side test on various track between my V1 and the FW05, but once I drove the 05 there was no going back to the V1.

See you in another 6 months or so.

[Redfox]

Hi, guys.

I know this is a stupid question...
Do I need to cut both ends of rear body posts base (the long piece where two body posts are connected)?
I tried several bodys, including Stratus body came in box, but this long piece prevents body sitting low enough. In the RR manuel, it didn't say anything about it.

Thanks!

No, the stratus body kit should have come with an extra instruction manual for the stratus body and other touring car bodies. It also comes with an extra few body mount pieces. For the rear there are body mount extension posts with higher body stops. It also comes with a replacement body post mount for the front end.

The stock setup without these extensions is for the lola style wedge bodies similar to the 1/8 scale racing bodies but smaller.

There should be no need to cut that long base.

[Redfox]

Hey all,

I'm having some probs with my V-One-RR handling. It seems that whenever I hit the brakes the car wants to spin left. I realise that losing the rear under braking is usual for cars with a front one-way, but this is definitely not right. Even if i don't higt the brakes hard, it spins. I just can't figure it out... My setup doesn't look bad, and even if it hasn't been tweaked on a setup board, it couldn't be so far out that it causes it to spin. Maybe i should get a rear solid axle?? Or else maybe just convert the car to front diff which is more the style of driving i'm used to. Any suggestions anyone?

Btw i don't think the bearings are binding. Nor is anything else in the drive train. Yet it always wants to spin left. Even when i'm driving very slow, it will do a complete 180 if i touch the brakes.

[ExtremeDuty]

No, the stratus body kit should have come with an extra instruction manual for the stratus body and other touring car bodies. It also comes with an extra few body mount pieces. For the rear there are body mount extension posts with higher body stops. It also comes with a replacement body post mount for the front end.

The stock setup without these extensions is for the lola style wedge bodies similar to the 1/8 scale racing bodies but smaller.

There should be no need to cut that long base.

Thanks for the reply,
I did see the additional manuel for touring car body mounting, and knew about the extension body posts that goes on top of LOLA body support (this is the long piece I was talking about).

Even with those extension posts, both ends of LOLA body supprt were touch the rear wheel wall, preventing body sitting low. So, I ended up, no had to, cutting the both ends about 1/2 inch.

Now any kinds of touring body fits nicely without interferences.

[ExtremeDuty]

Hey all,

I'm having some probs with my V-One-RR handling. It seems that whenever I hit the brakes the car wants to spin left. I realise that losing the rear under braking is usual for cars with a front one-way, but this is definitely not right. Even if i don't higt the brakes hard, it spins. I just can't figure it out... My setup doesn't look bad, and even if it hasn't been tweaked on a setup board, it couldn't be so far out that it causes it to spin. Maybe i should get a rear solid axle?? Or else maybe just convert the car to front diff which is more the style of driving i'm used to. Any suggestions anyone?

Btw i don't think the bearings are binding. Nor is anything else in the drive train. Yet it always wants to spin left. Even when i'm driving very slow, it will do a complete 180 if i touch the brakes.


Hey, RedFox.

As I replied in Nitro board, it must be your chassis setup.
I've been using Hudy setup system for my two TC3's, XXX-S, Super nitro RS4, Reflex NT, and V-1-RR. Once you spend 30 minutes for setting, there is no problem in irregular handling. (Rest depends on my skill... :D )
I havn't driven RR yet (as you may guessed...I'm working on body mounting), but I ran Reflex NT a lot. Since Reflex NT is a 99% copy of V-1-R, I assume the handling should be very close. Once I went through 2-3 times of iterative process of chassis settings, the handling was golden!

I highly recommend checking RR's chassis setup with a setting system.
or you could have your friends or hobby shop to have a "fresh eye review".
Sometimes, some other than me catches a problem.

For one of my TC3's, I had a serious problem that car veers into left or right under hard acceleration. For over two years, I couldn't solve the problem. My friends and hobby shop had looked my TC3 for any problem, but no one could identify what it was. Also during 2 years, I completely re-assembled the car over 6 times checking every single part and settings. I finally gave up and ended up getting a XXX-S. XXX-S was doing great from the moment I finished assembling. Last summer, when my wife told me that her sister's family was visiting us, I decided to give my TC3 to sister-in-law's husband as a play car. So, I took out the TC3 again, I started cleaning and some maintenance work. As I was checking the lenghs of steering tie rods, I notices that two rods had a very, very, very slight difference in length. After I corrected that, the car was running like a champ!
I swear I checked the tie rod length many & many times (over 10 times at least) whenever I went through re-building and chassis setups. However, this small error caused me a big headache for last 2 years.

Well, the point of my short-made-to-long story is that there must be something you may have overlooked. I'm sure you will chase after it, find it, and correct it! I want your RR run like a champ! 'Cause RR is meant to be a champ :D

whoa~ :eek: this is a useless long typing...

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi, all!

I'm quite happy with R/RR's current steering setup, but also interested in EVO's new steering setup.

I was looking at the contents of EVO conversion kit, but am only interested in steering parts. Has anyone tried just steering conversion yet?

I need to minimize the investment for the conversion since my hobby budget is very tight now. My understanding is that in addition to steering parts I need a new chassis? (due to the steering post's mounting??)

[pleaseletmeon34]

I haven't looked at mine in a while, but to add the steering post you will have to drill a hole in the chassis. I'm not sure if you can do that because I think there is a cut-out where the post should go.

[ExtremeDuty]

I haven't looked at mine in a while, but to add the steering post you will have to drill a hole in the chassis. I'm not sure if you can do that because I think there is a cut-out where the post should go.


Thanks for the reply.
Please take a look at your EVO, and let me know if it's possible.

[pleaseletmeon34]

I seem to remember wanting to do the same thing. I went to kyoshos site and downloaded the EVO manual. The first few pages has a picture of the chassis. I blew it up to the same size as my rr chassis. Thats how I found out it wouldn't work.

[ExtremeDuty]

I seem to remember wanting to do the same thing. I went to kyoshos site and downloaded the EVO manual. The first few pages has a picture of the chassis. I blew it up to the same size as my rr chassis. Thats how I found out it wouldn't work.

Thanks for the tip! I already had the manuels for RR & EVO as reference.
As you mentioned, RR's chassis has more cut out, while EVO's chassis has less cut-out that has mounting hole for the steering post.

Oh, well...not a bad news though. I can save a few bucks now for not doing conversion.

[uaerc]

Guys

I set up my v one rr and reassembled new brakes etc.....car was just fine with a soft springs, car handled well. it was great to drive the car back again after a while. well the problem occurred after a couple of tanks it stopped to shift gears
i brouhg it home and opened up the 2 speed gears and found that the clutch below the 2nd speed was loose / came off. so i was thinking of changing this particular part to an option part.
b4 that i would like to get any suggestion what i could do in order to fix this problem without changing........ otherwise which brand would be good option.

cheers
Aziz

[NiMo]

Hi Guys

Just stumbled on this link whilst looking for something else.
It appears to be a laydown servo conversion for the V1R:
http://ingracing.com/ing/web/image/ingmade/v1rlaydown_pic.jpg
http://ingracing.com/ing/web/English/ingmade/e_v1rconversion.htm
Not sure who your local stockist would be though.

[ExtremeDuty]

Guys

I set up my v one rr and reassembled new brakes etc.....car was just fine with a soft springs, car handled well. it was great to drive the car back again after a while. well the problem occurred after a couple of tanks it stopped to shift gears
i brouhg it home and opened up the 2 speed gears and found that the clutch below the 2nd speed was loose / came off. so i was thinking of changing this particular part to an option part.
b4 that i would like to get any suggestion what i could do in order to fix this problem without changing........ otherwise which brand would be good option.

cheers
Aziz

Aziz,
Need more description on that part you are talking about...
I was looking at RR manuel and couldn't figure out which piece it was.

Anyway, I don't see anything needs to be changed for aftermarket parts in 2 speed system. My Reflex NT has a 2 speed system more like Serpent's.

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi Guys

Just stumbled on this link whilst looking for something else.
It appears to be a laydown servo conversion for the V1R:
http://ingracing.com/ing/web/image/ingmade/v1rlaydown_pic.jpg
http://ingracing.com/ing/web/English/ingmade/e_v1rconversion.htm
Not sure who your local stockist would be though.


I saw one sold at eBay for $60. It seems too much for a few pieces of hardware and new carbon fiber upper deck.
First I didn't understand how it would work, but the drawing on the web site gave me clear view. I just wonder if it would be robust?

Nice find, NiMo.

[uaerc]

Aziz,
Need more description on that part you are talking about...
I was looking at RR manuel and couldn't figure out which piece it was.

Anyway, I don't see anything needs to be changed for aftermarket parts in 2 speed system. My Reflex NT has a 2 speed system more like Serpent's.

Hi ExtremeDuty.

As per the manual part no. FM361 - 2nd Shoe holder, the hex nut inside i feel is gone loose probably becoz of the threading gone. Well I was wondering if you guys know any option part for this - otherwise the only choice is to replace this piece.

Regards
Aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi ExtremeDuty.

As per the manual part no. FM361 - 2nd Shoe holder, the hex nut inside i feel is gone loose probably becoz of the threading gone. Well I was wondering if you guys know any option part for this - otherwise the only choice is to replace this piece.

Regards
Aziz

Hey, Aziz.
That's what exactly I was guessing... ;) My guess is that you put too much torque into that little set screw when you first assembled it.

I recommend getting the same stock piece & set screw and assemblying carefully. Just tightening the set screw enough to bite and use "blue" thread lock to prevent loosening out.

I checked 3Racing web site, but they don't make a replacement part for the 2nd gear holder. I'm not sure about other aftermarket manufacturers.

[uaerc]

Hey there.......

Thanks for the advice..... but i had a bad crash at the parking lot yesterday, due to some reason the brakes wouldnt get engaged and i was at full speed nearing the footpath in front. managed to roll the car and hit the back plate.. which broke the screws in the bottom of the chasis...and i think the 2nd speed shaft is bent. the spur gears are damaged... when i will open up the car i would be able to find more damages i am sure.....

regards
aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

Hey there.......

Thanks for the advice..... but i had a bad crash at the parking lot yesterday, due to some reason the brakes wouldnt get engaged and i was at full speed nearing the footpath in front. managed to roll the car and hit the back plate.. which broke the screws in the bottom of the chasis...and i think the 2nd speed shaft is bent. the spur gears are damaged... when i will open up the car i would be able to find more damages i am sure.....

regards
aziz

Sorry to hear about the crash...
It must have been a quite nasty one. If the 2-speed shaft is indeed bent, get a new aluminum aftermarket shaft. It is very light.

Was there some small stone stuck between brake pad or something?
On my on-road nitro cars, I give the rotor & pads very very small space like real car's disk brake setup so that none can stuck between rotor and pad.
Just enough space so that there is no or very slight drag...
To compensate very short pad movement, I adjust the brake response profile to be logarithemic function.

Also what I've found from off-trucks is that whenever I gave too much play between rotor & pad, there was alway some kind of binding while brake is applied at the brake cam lever and brake linkage.

[TheScum]

Hi all,

upon reading about Aziz's 2 speed not changing, decided to have look see into my rear diff settings (was thinking of replenshing my TCDs oil) as well as my 2 speed. After a few runs, from which i did find my acceleration a bit slow (have a sirio .12 Turbo), was quite happy with my shifting, but nevertheless brought the car in to stip the rear diff.

Found that the diff housing were without 3 screws (so happens that they were lodged somewhere between the inner diff gear housing and the outdrives.)

Was amazed that none of the screws were missing and that there were some remanants of the oil. I maintain the car after every run day, and did recollect some thicker oil deposits at the bottom of the chassis. (one of the primary reasons why after reading Aziz's plight, i had decided that i'd better check on the rear diff too, stupid me for not doing this earlier).

Damage Report:
TCD gears all usable. Checked and cleaned each one thoroughly to ensure there were no signs of wear.

The sides of my rear gear diff were worn quite badly. Replaced this part.

The belts and all other items were working just fine, again with no signs of wear.


All i can say is, Lady luck sure does like me...

[uaerc]

Hi Guys

here's my report. Well as said earlier, I checked the car opened up the rear, the rear cover plate is gone part no VZO83, rear suspension shaft are bent.

Well the good news is that I opened up the whole lot and straightened out the other suspension shafts and adjusted the 2 speed clutch and now i can run again. But I didnt want to risk more damage so i didnt drive it but the car looks good as new since i removed the tray and sprayed the car with water ( beforrre doing that had a good spray off WD40) well after the car dried out fixed up everything flushed the engine with fuel to remove any water contents there and run the engine it started in the first.....

While I was at it i also fixed the active diff. in the front. (Team Kyosho) got it from the K world cup which was held here i was suprised how cheap these parts were really believe it or not i got the active diff housing for 25$

@ tower its http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAVW0&P=7

I had bought red springs - Aluminium brake shoe holder - Sp brake disk - 500 Diff oil. all for 40$. I wish we had a shop that would sell stuff that cheaap all year round.

The SCUM -

Good to hear that you saved up the rear diffs, tell me what car are you using, the reason i ask is that i was planning on the active diff in the rear and one way tube in the front to see what happens... but one my local drivers here suggested me to go for TCD's in the rear and active diffs in the front. Now How good is the TCD gear's, do you use the aluminium housing for it or just the standard housing.

regards
aziz

[uaerc]

Oh yeah

I forgot to ask you guys that this active diff housing instruction manual said not to use diff. oil and only grease in it ? I did as the manual --- any other ideas.

ciao
Aziz

[leighindubai]

Hi all

Hopefully some one can help here.. i have a V One S with 2 speed and tuned pipe etc and have a problem that that it has a lot of understeer on our local track. I've tried various setups (like the sheets of the web) and also fiddled myself. But allas the car has a huge turning circle which isn't great for the tight turns on our track. Any thoughts anyone. :confused: Also i am running my car with 15% nitro and i think the car is almost tuned correctly any idea how fast it should be, sometimes it looks sluggish but against the others in a straight line it keeps up but not around the bends.

Cheers

leigh

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi all

Hopefully some one can help here.. i have a V One S with 2 speed and tuned pipe etc and have a problem that that it has a lot of understeer on our local track. I've tried various setups (like the sheets of the web) and also fiddled myself. But allas the car has a huge turning circle which isn't great for the tight turns on our track. Any thoughts anyone. :confused: Also i am running my car with 15% nitro and i think the car is almost tuned correctly any idea how fast it should be, sometimes it looks sluggish but against the others in a straight line it keeps up but not around the bends.

Cheers

leigh

OK, I don't know much about your car setup, but...
If we assume everything is perfectly setup, lowering front ride height will give you more aggresive steering. From my experience, lowering front ride height by 0.5 mm gave me a hugh difference of day and night in steering performance.

Do your front tires have enough traction during turns? or do they lose grip easily? On touring cars, it is said that tire selection is over 90% of setup.
Having good tires also make day and night difference.

I would go back to your baseline setup or factory recommended setup, and play with front ride height and tire selection. Don't jump right into using rear sway bar.

Ah, also try using either front softer spring or rear harder spring. This setup is supposed to give more steering.

Just start from things that are easier to make changes...
Remember, tire is very important.

[TheScum]

Hi Guys

here's my report. Well as said earlier, I checked the car opened up the rear, the rear cover plate is gone part no VZO83, rear suspension shaft are bent.

Well the good news is that I opened up the whole lot and straightened out the other suspension shafts and adjusted the 2 speed clutch and now i can run again. But I didnt want to risk more damage so i didnt drive it but the car looks good as new since i removed the tray and sprayed the car with water ( beforrre doing that had a good spray off WD40) well after the car dried out fixed up everything flushed the engine with fuel to remove any water contents there and run the engine it started in the first.....

While I was at it i also fixed the active diff. in the front. (Team Kyosho) got it from the K world cup which was held here i was suprised how cheap these parts were really believe it or not i got the active diff housing for 25$

@ tower its http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAVW0&P=7

I had bought red springs - Aluminium brake shoe holder - Sp brake disk - 500 Diff oil. all for 40$. I wish we had a shop that would sell stuff that cheaap all year round.

The SCUM -

Good to hear that you saved up the rear diffs, tell me what car are you using, the reason i ask is that i was planning on the active diff in the rear and one way tube in the front to see what happens... but one my local drivers here suggested me to go for TCD's in the rear and active diffs in the front. Now How good is the TCD gear's, do you use the aluminium housing for it or just the standard housing.

regards
aziz



Hey Aziz,

i say the following from the limited experience i have. Ok, the disclaimer aside, i love Kyosho TCDs, although alot of guys at the forum prefer Kawahara's Negative Diff. Probably cause it allows different tuning options with silicone oil.

The TCDs come with a standard black oil. I use a thicker red. Allows the locking action to engage later, methinks. All i know is it corners better with the red.

Apart from that i use the aluminum housing and that's just because i'm vain, it works fine with the standard plastic housing. If you're planning to get the aluminum ones, you'll have to get a bearing seperately for the outdrives (jic you din already know this) and slap a generous helping of liquid thread lock on the screws or you may end up in my position of having a diff with 3 screws lodged somewhere in the drivetrain... :)

BTW. To answer your quest, i have a V One RR that i've retired to my wife, and a EVO for meself. Both have oneways up front, and TCDs at the back.

[leighindubai]

Cheers for that i'll try it at the weekend :)

OK, I don't know much about your car setup, but...
If we assume everything is perfectly setup, lowering front ride height will give you more aggresive steering. From my experience, lowering front ride height by 0.5 mm gave me a hugh difference of day and night in steering performance.

Do your front tires have enough traction during turns? or do they lose grip easily? On touring cars, it is said that tire selection is over 90% of setup.
Having good tires also make day and night difference.

I would go back to your baseline setup or factory recommended setup, and play with front ride height and tire selection. Don't jump right into using rear sway bar.

Ah, also try using either front softer spring or rear harder spring. This setup is supposed to give more steering.

Just start from things that are easier to make changes...
Remember, tire is very important.

[uaerc]

The Scum

Nice body shell.. Well I did get the alum. housingg when i got the active diff. set, which was installed in the front. But when i was just surfing at tower i found out that the alum. housing requires TCD's for installation thats why i kept that on hold as the TCD's at my LHS is quite expensive.....even though they are the auth. dealers. Somebody should tell this to KYOSHO :P

Oh yeah thanks for reminding me......I didnt put the thread lock !! :) lol ...........

I was thinking of a new chasis too.....we have limited choices here... SERPENT / Kyosho / OFNA OB4 / ...........I am slightly bent towards the serpent coz of the heavy Carbon parts......any opinions

cheers
Aziz

[uaerc]

leighindubai

where and when (as in what time) do you drive in Dubai let me know.

Regards
Aziz

[TheScum]

Heya Aziz,

i feel for you on the choice of chassis mate, with the FW05R winning the Pre-worlds, and the 710's rear dynamic toe system, the choices are just too baffling...

i just love my Vone, and am waiting with bated breath for the RRR...

Incidentally, if any company can pull off supporting two different chassis at a world championships, i guess it'd have to be kyosho. Hopefully they'll fare a bit better than Mclaren last year with their MP/17D and MP/18A debacle...

PS. Thanks for the noticing the shell...;)

[uaerc]

I guess......

I will go in for a K3 its gonaa come here soon a freind of mine would get it real cheap i think.......and keep my V ONE RR.

serpent looks tempting coz all the CF on it ....... people say thats it better than the v one rr atleast the guys who drive it......dunno how far this debate would go but then i guess like you said will wait till the RRR and then decide what to get... i am really dont know how the FW=05R is, whats the graet difference in belt and shaft drives?

does a 190 MM body shell go on a V one RR

Regards
aziz

[leighindubai]

leighindubai

where and when (as in what time) do you drive in Dubai let me know.

Regards
Aziz


Hi Aziz

I normally manage to get up to the track on a Friday night (child and wife permitiing ;) ) If you've been there on a Friday recently i'm the one that keeps asking all the questions with the Mclaran F1. Do you know what times the track is open now, i went last Friday around 8 ish, but was locked up :(

[ExtremeDuty]

I guess......

I will go in for a K3 its gonaa come here soon a freind of mine would get it real cheap i think.......and keep my V ONE RR.

serpent looks tempting coz all the CF on it ....... people say thats it better than the v one rr atleast the guys who drive it......dunno how far this debate would go but then i guess like you said will wait till the RRR and then decide what to get... i am really dont know how the FW=05R is, whats the graet difference in belt and shaft drives?

does a 190 MM body shell go on a V one RR

Regards
aziz

I didn't hear anything bad about FW-05R. R/C car action comparison test also give the final win to FW-05R. Some of Kyosho fans I know prefer FW-05R over RR. I wanted to buy a FW-05R but RR was a better choice since I had a Reflex NT. (so I can share & swap parts...)

I am sure Serpent is a good one. Some day....You know... :D
I'm waiting until my son grow up.... Just 10 more years. :rolleyes:
Then I will give my 10 year old RR to my son and I will get a Serpent.

190 mm body works OK for Nitro touring cars, but you will notice tires protrude furthur our of body. I just like the tires nicely tucked under body.

[TheScum]

Does kickup and anti-dive refer to the same thing?

[Shiznick]

Hey guys I know this is a Kyosho forum but has anyone seen a TM G4 with a Kyosho V one RR evo front end?

thanks,

[ExtremeDuty]

Hey guys I know this is a Kyosho forum but has anyone seen a TM G4 with a Kyosho V one RR evo front end?

thanks,

I haven't and you will get better responses in G4 forum.

[ExtremeDuty]

This weekend, I'm going to break-in the engine.
The day has finally come :D :D :D

I intentionally built my RR sooooo~ slow that I could deal with winter depression. Tonite, I'm gonna add final touch, i.e. install receiver.

I'm very curious how Sirio engine will run...
Officailly Winter's gone~~~~~

[ExtremeDuty]

Does kickup and anti-dive refer to the same thing?

I could be wrong, but based on quick internet search, two have different meaning.

Anti-dive is what used in front suspension setup so that part of inertia transfer under braking is handled by suspension not all by front springs and also resist the front suspension dive.

Kickup usually means that the front chassis is bent up making an angle, which creates extra ground clearance for jump landing. Electric buggy, truck, and 1/8 nitro buggy all use "kickup".

[uaerc]

Hi Aziz

I normally manage to get up to the track on a Friday night (child and wife permitiing ;) ) If you've been there on a Friday recently i'm the one that keeps asking all the questions with the Mclaran F1. Do you know what times the track is open now, i went last Friday around 8 ish, but was locked up :(

Hi Leigh.....

Yeah actually I have been facing the same problem with the track aswell. But I heard from the Hani, who said they open from 3 everyday now a days I guess a goot idea would be to call Hobby Centre and ask them to make it open any hour before you go there. I guess that would work fine. I am planning to go to the track this weekend if i get a 2nd Speed main SHaft. Unfortunately Hobby centre does not have the Stock aswell as the option part. If you know anyone who has a spare 2nd speed main shaft. for the V 1 RR let me know.

Cheers
Aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

Well, after taking my dog to obediance class, I took out my RR and equipment.

I prepared everything and put my RR on top of starter box. Pushed the RR down to start and nothing happened for the next hour. Carb didn't seem to deliver enough fuel to engine. So I spent 20 min. to examine and clean the carb.

Then I had to leave to attend my sister's graduation exhibition. I spent half a day at her school and came back when it was almost dinner time.

I wanted to see if cleaning carb would help, but still nothing happened. So I went to Trinity's web site and located carb needle setting info. It said main needle opening as 5.5 turns. :eek: I opened only 2-3 turns based on my past O.S. & HPI engines. Even my Kyosho .21 & Hyper .21 engines were happy with 2-3 turns.

After adjusting main needle opening, I tried again but nothing still happened. Instead now fuel was pouring into engine causing lock-up. When this happened I realized that my glow plug or ignitor could be bad. I knew that my plug was a brand new one.

I have a glow ignitor with a voltage indicator at the end. The voltage gage was telling me that I had enough juice. :( Guess I shouldn't have trusted that useless gage!!! :mad:
It had been lying to me... I simply swapped a "C" battery and BAM~~~ :D
My lovely Sirio engine started singing!!!

I don't know if it was due to engine or pipe, the exhaust sound was rather high pitched rather than bumbling noise that I used to. Once the engine heat up, I opened the main needle for one more turn and ran 2 tanks.
It was getting quite chilly, so I had to stop.

Even though I was just blipping throttle very slightly I could feel the tremendous power potential of the engine. Tomorrow if weather is good, I will try to burn 3 more tanks.

Anyway, a very simple oversight led me a long strange way to break-in.

P.S. When I was cleaning my RR after 2 tanks, I saw my dog's hair was all over my car.... :p I was doing it in the garage with garage doors opened.

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi, all.

I did burn 2 more tanks. Nothing special today tough, since I figured out everything yesterday. I did open throttle a little bit more.

I am still trying figure out the engine's characteristics. At a very low rpm, with 6 turns opened, I see very small amount of unburned fuel. As throttle opening gets to 2-3 %, I see way to much white smoke coming out, which I usually see at a higher RPM on my previous engines; O.S., HPI.
I know seeing white smoke is good but it appears too early?

I guess I have to see how the engine runs at WOT next week.

[ExtremeDuty]

I wanted to run my RR one or two tanks more but today was kinda chilly...
It actually snowed briefly. :eek:

I guess I can't complain any more about Michigan weather...

[TheScum]

I could be wrong, but based on quick internet search, two have different meaning.

Anti-dive is what used in front suspension setup so that part of inertia transfer under braking is handled by suspension not all by front springs and also resist the front suspension dive.

Kickup usually means that the front chassis is bent up making an angle, which creates extra ground clearance for jump landing. Electric buggy, truck, and 1/8 nitro buggy all use "kickup".


Heya Extreme, thanks for the input.... however, do they have the same effect on tuning....

[mikecatts]

hi all.
just wanting to know if any body has any infomation on the new kyosho v-one rrr?
email me at...microg@dodo.com.au
thanks
mike

[ExtremeDuty]

hi all.
just wanting to know if any body has any infomation on the new kyosho v-one rrr?
email me at...microg@dodo.com.au
thanks
mike


All the information on RRR has been posted on "new product" section.

[Redfox]

Can you guys tell me what shock oil weights you use for the front and rear with the standard springs? I just refilled the rear with 25 (seems a bit light), and i'm not sure what's in the front.

[deathlok]

hi i want to use 3d clutch to my v-one r.the problem is that i have an os max cv-r engine with a threaded shaft and as far as i know kyosho does not offer an adapter to use 3d clutch with this type of shaft.i wonder if anybody has find an adapter (from a different company) to use 3d cluch with threaded shaft.

[ExtremeDuty]

Can you guys tell me what shock oil weights you use for the front and rear with the standard springs? I just refilled the rear with 25 (seems a bit light), and i'm not sure what's in the front.

Regardless of electric or nitro, I use either 50 or 60 weight on all of my touring cars. I know some people prefer to have lighter weight oils.
Using 40 wt on my electric TC3 works fine but I ended up using 50 wt after finding not much difference in handling. (Read... I can't tell the difference 'cause I'm a newbee... :D )

I use standard black springs.

[ExtremeDuty]

hi i want to use 3d clutch to my v-one r.the problem is that i have an os max cv-r engine with a threaded shaft and as far as i know kyosho does not offer an adapter to use 3d clutch with this type of shaft.i wonder if anybody has find an adapter (from a different company) to use 3d cluch with threaded shaft.

V-one-R had an shaft adapter for threaded shaft engine, but it was still for 2-clutch shoe application. I wonder that optional shaft adapter can be used for 3D clutch.
I'm not sure if there is any aftermarket company making the conversion shaft adapter...

You could try to get a pilot shaft for your CV-R engine.

[uaerc]

Hi guys......

My carb.on the OS 12 TR just came off my v one rr last night while driving looks to be loose...i keep putting it on and it keeps poping out.......must be the oil loosing it up ? dunno.

Is there anything i can put in, some kind of washer to make it a tighter fit.

Regards
Aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi guys......

My carb.on the OS 12 TR just came off my v one rr last night while driving looks to be loose...i keep putting it on and it keeps poping out.......must be the oil loosing it up ? dunno.

Is there anything i can put in, some kind of washer to make it a tighter fit.

Regards
Aziz

How's the fitment of carb pinch bolt? Is carb still loose even if the pinch bolt is tightened up?

I don't know... Pinch bolt should do its job.
You could try applying light coat of RTV silicone as a sealer and feeler of the space between carb body and crank case.

[ExtremeDuty]

On 5th tank, I felt very very naughty....
So, intentionally over-reved engine for a prolonged time just for fun...

Now I feel sorry for the engine. :(
Hey, but it sounded like it really can deliver that advertised RPM!

Well, I'm still not feeling good. I set the 2 speed per manual but the transmission never shifted into 2nd gear during the over-reving.
Probably I tighened the two screws too much.

How's every one doing?

[uaerc]

How's the fitment of carb pinch bolt? Is carb still loose even if the pinch bolt is tightened up?

I don't know... Pinch bolt should do its job.
You could try applying light coat of RTV silicone as a sealer and feeler of the space between carb body and crank case.

Thanks I Will try this and let you know........

Regards
Aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

Anyone running V-one's?

I've been very busy at work for two weeks. Today I charged up my radio & receiver batteries. Oh, I finally finished painting a body for my RR.
It is not pretty... I will post a pic later.

[Evo 1]

Hi
Does anybody know when the V-1-RRR will be on sale.
Thanks

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi
Does anybody know when the V-1-RRR will be on sale.
Thanks

I guess it will go on sale in Japan pretty soon since Kyosho showed it at Shizuoka hobby show (not sure about the spelling).

[ExtremeDuty]

I was looking at Kyosho web site. At Shizuoka hobby show, they demonstrated 4 stroke adaption kit for FW-05R, V-one-S II, and V-one-RRR.

Since they show the price of 4 stroke kit, it will go on sale...

[ExtremeDuty]

Does RR's rear pivoting body support really work?

I see the need of pivoting rear body support for 1/8 nitro on-road cars, but I doubt its usefulness on 1/10 toruing cars. LOLA body shape requires broad support, which can not be handled by two body post bars.

It's complex and has more parts. I'm sure it will give a little better transfer downforce for rear tire traction, but how much benefit?

I see many companies reverting rear body support design to conventional body post design.

[Godspeed]

Heya, I have a problem getting my spur gear into the 2 speed changer assembly. I have tightened as much as possible on the 2 speed changer but just couldn't get the spur gear in. Can someone shed some light on this? Thanks. :confused:

[ExtremeDuty]

Heya, I have a problem getting my spur gear into the 2 speed changer assembly. I have tightened as much as possible on the 2 speed changer but just couldn't get the spur gear in. Can someone shed some light on this? Thanks. :confused:

Inspect every part carefully and try again.
I see my RR right in front of me, but I don't see any problem with assemblying 2 speed spur gear assembly. I didn't have any problem.

[mr.fury]

Hey guys....I got a Great set-up on my Kyosho V-One RR and i love the stock foam tires that comes with the kit cause they stick REAL WELL and i'm not too exciting on Testing out different compounds ecpsiecially if i don't end up using them after i bought them......Rubber tires are ok...but to me they don't grip the street like the foams.....

ANYWAYS....DOES ANYBODY KNOW THE PART NUMBERS OR A HOBBY SHOP ONLINE WHERE I CAN PURCHASE THE STOCK FOAMS???? OR MAYBE EVEN A PART NUMBER....OR MAYBE EVEN DIRECT ME TO SOME GREAT FOAM TIRES THAT ARE THE SAME AS THE STOCK ONES? PLEASE HELP ME OUT.....

[mr.fury]

by the way...i run on asphalt....

[ExtremeDuty]

Hey guys....I got a Great set-up on my Kyosho V-One RR and i love the stock foam tires that comes with the kit cause they stick REAL WELL and i'm not too exciting on Testing out different compounds ecpsiecially if i don't end up using them after i bought them......Rubber tires are ok...but to me they don't grip the street like the foams.....

ANYWAYS....DOES ANYBODY KNOW THE PART NUMBERS OR A HOBBY SHOP ONLINE WHERE I CAN PURCHASE THE STOCK FOAMS???? OR MAYBE EVEN A PART NUMBER....OR MAYBE EVEN DIRECT ME TO SOME GREAT FOAM TIRES THAT ARE THE SAME AS THE STOCK ONES? PLEASE HELP ME OUT.....

Glad the RR stock foam tires work good for you. Actually they should!
Their brand name is "Power Tires", which are made by GRP. GRP makes the same tires and brand them under bunch of different names. If my memory serves right, RR's stock foam's shore rating is 35 for front and rear.
You can trust any GRP made foam tires regardless of its brand names.
Just search bunch of online stores for GRP made foam tires with 35 shore rating if you want keep the same hardness.

I use 42 for fronts and 37 for rears. Lower shore foam tires give more traction but have shorter life due to being softer. Having lower shore foam tires at rear gives a better rear traction that prevents rear-end's swing out during high-G lateral turns. One benefit of having the same shore tires on all four sides are that you don't have to worry about rear tires' diameter getting smaller. So this is what I do. I buy one pair of 42 shore front tires and two pairs of 37 shore rear tires and keep rotation rear tire pairs to try to maintain reasonable rear tire diameter reduction.

I didn't see where you live, but try to check out eBay for what you need or other tire bundles from online stores in HongKong. My final price per pair was cheaper than those on eBay auctions and cheapest online prices. Of course, you will need to order a lot to offset shipping cost but not too much to incur import tax. (Less than $100 should get through w/o any problem)

[ExtremeDuty]

Hey y'all!

In May, Southeast Michigan had a record rain fall… The whole month was really wet. In June, things start looking much better.
I ran my RR twice this week at a local school parking lot. The first run was for checking the car's overall chassis setup and engine's performance.
It ran pretty good but had some left to right turning unbalance. A quick adjustment to EPA fixed that.
I couldn't see its extreme condition handling performance since I put on some old rubber tires that came off an electric touring car.
With heavy weight and thicker shock fluid, the rubber tires just couldn't their job.
2nd gear didn't engage until engine revved really high and 1st gear's acceleration wasn't that crispy either. I could tune the carb a bit more but came home after one tank.


Yesterday, I went out to run RR again. At home, I adjusted two screws holding 2-speed clutch. The manual didn't specify the screw setting in turns.
I measured that my current setting was 3 turns out from bottom. To make 2nd gear engagement earlier, I set the screws at 3 and 3/8 turns.
I opened the high needle to 5 turns and didn't touch any other needles. The engine fired up right away and it seemed like the 5 turn opening.
Since It still had the rubber tires, I wanted to see how engine performs and 2nd speed engagement. I started doing WOT runs here to there and everywhere.
Soon I was doing drifting the car all over the place. Both low end and high end were exceptional and 1st gear acceleration was quite crispy and good.
As the engine heats up, 2nd gear shifting point started coming down. I will probably re-adjust screws to between 3 1/8 to 3 1/4 turns.
The rubber tires were not up to the task and they all were torn by the end of first tank of fuel. I left the lot with a big smile on my face. :D :D :D

[Godspeed]

Yo Extremeduty, glad to hear that you enjoyed yourself. Keep up the good work. :)

Btw, I have solved the 2 speed changer problem...the rollers are placed in the wrong direction...my bad...LOL. It should indeed fit nicely. ;)

[uaerc]

Extremeduty....

Congrats........all the best. with your car.

I have a few qs. for you. can you let me know your shock setup in details...

Shock oil in front and rear.
Shock spring in front and rear.

Are your shock pistons in front = to rear pistons ? as in all 4 RR shock sets are of the equal size ?

My setup.

500 shock oil Kyosho in front and rear
Black stock springs in front
Red soft springs in the back.

Car is not stable while turniingg!! rock solid on the straights....... spins out in turns even slower ones.

cheers
Aziz

[uaerc]

Dup post

[uaerc]

Hi guys......

My carb.on the OS 12 TR just came off my v one rr last night while driving looks to be loose...i keep putting it on and it keeps poping out.......must be the oil loosing it up ? dunno.

Is there anything i can put in, some kind of washer to make it a tighter fit.

Regards
Aziz

Hi......

found the problem ...the ATV was too high on my radio so the servo was pulling the carb loose out of position.

Thanks for all the input.......

Regards
Aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi......

found the problem ...the ATV was too high on my radio so the servo was pulling the carb loose out of position.

Thanks for all the input.......

Regards
Aziz


:eek: Must be a very strong servo... :D
It's good to hear that you found the root cause.
What throttle servo do you use? I always have used Hitec 525BB (cheap and reliable, using the same servo for 8 years on 5 different cars).

When I mounted the 525BB on HPI super nitro RS4 as a throttle servo, I was able to see the main chassis getting bent under braking...even with carbon fiber upper deck and rear engine brace. Indeed SNRS4's chassis is really thin.

[ExtremeDuty]

Extremeduty....

Congrats........all the best. with your car.

I have a few qs. for you. can you let me know your shock setup in details...

Shock oil in front and rear.
Shock spring in front and rear.

Are your shock pistons in front = to rear pistons ? as in all 4 RR shock sets are of the equal size ?

My setup.

500 shock oil Kyosho in front and rear
Black stock springs in front
Red soft springs in the back.

Car is not stable while turniingg!! rock solid on the straights....... spins out in turns even slower ones.

cheers
Aziz

Hey, Aziz.

If you are spinning out even at slower speeds, there must be some wrong. I haven't run any foam tire with my RR yet. My foam tire experience is all based on Reflex NT. RNT handled very well and resisted spinning out even under extreme turns. For my RR, I did some drifting and extreme manuvers last time and I found that rubber tires did OK up to medium speeds. Since mine with rubber did fine, I can only suspect that something's wrong with your car. I assume you have RR stock foam tires on yours?

By the way, do you use RR's stock front one-way? I don't 'cause I do lot of stop and go driving. If you do use front one-way, you will have to re-learn of driving RR more carefully.

My setup is...
All stock location/position, stock black springs(front/rear).
60 wt (600 for Kyosho, front/rear), all same shock pistons.

You may want to try removing rear anti-roll bar to allow more side to side rear suspension movement. (but I'm doing just fine with it. FYI...my RNT didn't have any anti-roll bars)

What is your rear camber and toe-in setting? I usually set at -2 deg rear camber and 3 deg toe-in. Increasing rear toe-in will help to get rear traction but it scrubs off straight line speed. Also more negative rear camber will help to gain side to side traction.

Did you get your chassis setup system yet? Believe me, I used my Hudy system on all of my electric and nitro touring cars and I never had a single strange handling problem with base stock setting.
You really have to have a good baseline stock setup that is done correctly. I found out that my eyeballs are not that accurate... :o

I will run mine with foam tires tomorrow and let you know how it handle.

[ExtremeDuty]

OK, I ran mine with a used set of foam tires.
The result was a big disappointment but everything was due to my setup mistake.

Since I wanted to save more pennys here and there, I used a pretty worn down foam tires (used on Reflex NT). There were only 2-4 mm of foam left on rims. I know, I know... :( I was stupid...
Due to very small tire diameter, I had to jack up my car to the maximum to prevent chassis bottom dragging. Later I found out that by doing so, I ended up setting my car to have positive cambers on rear a lot! With positive cambers on all 4 sides, the car wouldn't handle correctly. When I was inspecting the car at home, I realized all 4 tires are coned from positive cambers. So, in handling department, my car suffered a lot.

This is just from my hunch... Having front and rear anti-roll bars seems to have negative effect on side to side bite/traction on where I run mine. I removed the both front/rear anti roll bars. Now the car has nice side to side roll movement. My Reflex NT was just like this and I had no problem. I believe Kyosho included anti-roll bars for pro's running on high traction/smooth surfaces.

I noticed that foam tires have higher tendency to pick up small debris from the ground and kick them up to chassis, thus throwing stuff into pullies and belt. Also, lower ground clearance due to very small tire diameter played a big roll in getting more debris. Front small pully, two side pullies, and side belt are damaged. Side belt looked pretty bad.

I guess I have to stop being too stinge when it comes to foam tires. If I have some time in Thursday, I will try to run my RR again.
The car will have either a new rubber or foam tires with corrent camber setting. Front/rear anti-roll bars are removed.

For venting purpose...
I don't know why in the world I bought another belt touring car... :mad:
I had seen belt drive systems problem from HPI old toruing cars, Super nitro RS4, and Reflex NT. When I was thinking about getting RR, I really gave lots of thought into shaft drive cars, i.e. Nitro TC3, FW-05R.
Why? why? why?
It's all fault of Serpent. Somehow they created image in mind that belt drive cars look so professional and cool. :D

[uaerc]

Hi Extremeduty.

Thanks for the input. well I have running HPI rubber tyres 35 all over. These are radials and not the slicks.

I just got 70 wt trinity shock oil. will use iit in the rear and see what it does, since i got the soft spring at the back. The servo was DS 811 4 kg torque :)

I have tried the anti-roll bar off in the last run that i had it had a bit of a difference, i was brain storming bout this last night aswell it could be sand on the parking lot that i run this. But actually didnt get time to drive my rr lately... will let you know on my next run.

cheers
Aziz

Ps... thinking of getting a FW 05R ;) too lol !!

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi Extremeduty.

Thanks for the input. well I have running HPI rubber tyres 35 all over. These are radials and not the slicks.

I just got 70 wt trinity shock oil. will use iit in the rear and see what it does, since i got the soft spring at the back. The servo was DS 811 4 kg torque :)

I have tried the anti-roll bar off in the last run that i had it had a bit of a difference, i was brain storming bout this last night aswell it could be sand on the parking lot that i run this. But actually didnt get time to drive my rr lately... will let you know on my next run.

cheers
Aziz

Ps... thinking of getting a FW 05R ;) too lol !!

I heard FW-05R is a quite good car! I'm thinking about getting a shaft drive car also. Probably Nitro TC3 used one.

Yeah, I also thought about possible presence of fine dust/sand on surface since you guys have way too much sand... :D

The surface you are running, is it quite smooth and flat? Using 70 wt seems to be a bit on high side. (Even though I use 60 wt... I plan to go down to 50 wt) How's the traction of HPI 35 tires? I do have full set of HPI yokohama patterend radial tires. Not sure about the temperature rating.

I want to run my RR again but weather forecast says thunderstorm on Thursday and Friday... :mad: :mad: :mad:

[uaerc]

I saw the FW-05r at the KWC this year they gave it off as prizes to the first 3 racers. It looked nice to me... just waiting for this guy who keeps going to japan all the time so he can fetch me one.....coz its damn expensive at the LHS here..

The traction is quite good on the HPI tyres. I think I have the same yohoma styled ones......pattern looks similar to the real super bikee tires. Yeah I was reading this site about the shock oil. did some reasearch ! :)

It says to have heavy oil in the front (thick) and thin in the rear. will try that combination and check it out.

I want to run my RR again aswell but no time :( been really busy.

[ExtremeDuty]

It was raining last night and still rains... will rain the the rest of week.
Gotta leave this soaking place!

Last night, I went back to RR to prepare for the next run.
First, I set the ride height at 4.9/5.0 mm (front/rear) with standard tire size (new foam tire and rubber tire size). Then I put the car on Hudy setup system and started measuring angles. Everything was as I set before but one of rear's camber/toe-in were slightly off.

One thing noticeable was front toe angle seem to be not enough for initial turn-in. When I assembled I set it at 0 deg toe. At the last run, the car didn't have enough "diggin-in" to corners. So, I tried to set it at 0.5 deg toe-out.

Hope rain will stop soon before I go back to work next week. Please~~~

[uaerc]

Hi

Can you let me know how you control - the ride height. do you use the shocks size adjustments or is it something else. Coz i dont have any droop at all. When i lift my car up from the back, the tires move a mm hardly and when i sit it down they dont push either....... how ever the front seems to have some droop. Do I need droop ? is my rear shocks to tight... oh yeah all the 4 screws in the bottom are 0 !! if loosen up may b it will loose traction.

I re-did the shocks today- as per the manual - only the front shocks have 70wt oil in it now and stock springs. the rears got 500 oil in front and red soft springs.

OK, i am using #35 tyres all over would the slicks be a better switch

I was driving on uneven ground thats why the car was not holding the ground. I am really waiting desperatily for the setup system.. hope it comes soon i ordered from PMB is that worth it

cheer
Aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi

Can you let me know how you control - the ride height. do you use the shocks size adjustments or is it something else. Coz i dont have any droop at all. When i lift my car up from the back, the tires move a mm hardly and when i sit it down they dont push either....... how ever the front seems to have some droop. Do I need droop ? is my rear shocks to tight... oh yeah all the 4 screws in the bottom are 0 !! if loosen up may b it will loose traction.

I re-did the shocks today- as per the manual - only the front shocks have 70wt oil in it now and stock springs. the rears got 500 oil in front and red soft springs.

OK, i am using #35 tyres all over would the slicks be a better switch

I was driving on uneven ground thats why the car was not holding the ground. I am really waiting desperatily for the setup system.. hope it comes soon i ordered from PMB is that worth it

cheer
Aziz

Hi, Aziz.

Hey, finally you spilt everything that you were hiding... :D
Uneven surface + almost no droop at rear, exactly means frequently losing rear traction.

General rule is that higher the traction, less required droop. However, having no droop at all can limit traction due to very limited or no suspension movement. In your case, one of rear tire was in the air due to lack of droop. If it has some droop, the tire would still be in contact with surface.

For parking lot races, you will need some degree of droop. I usually set suspension arm limiters per manual or I remove the stop screws completely (full suspension movement). So when you lift the car from ground, all four suspension arms should move down (droop). My RR is set as recommended in the manual.

I change the ride height by adjustment shock collars. Also, having enough droop ensures that you don't pre-load shocks w/ shock collar adjustment.
Try to set all four sides' droop as in the manual.

I hope this helps...

[uaerc]

Hi

I cant seem to figure out.....when i set the rear shocks as per the manual the car has no droop and when i loosen the spring adjuster i get some droop.

I have ordered some parts from GPM racing. Anyone has used these let me know how they are compared to other aftermarket products.

Regards
Aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi

I cant seem to figure out.....when i set the rear shocks as per the manual the car has no droop and when i loosen the spring adjuster i get some droop.

I have ordered some parts from GPM racing. Anyone has used these let me know how they are compared to other aftermarket products.

Regards
Aziz

Are you using the same rear shock mounting positions? How about suspension travel stop screws?
You must have some slack in the suspension for not perfect surfaces.
When you set rear ride height at...let's say 5 mm, are your shocks already extended in full length due to spring tension (even on the ground)? This means you pre-loaded the shocks. Actually this might be OK but you need make sure two rear shocks length are exactly same. Unless you are creating tweak.

I don't think pre-loading shock is good since it will take away the initial spring's softer actions. If you could take a picture of rear suspension, I could see what's going on.

[leighindubai]

Hello all

Just to add fuel to this handling problem, my car (v-one s) used to do exactly the same (spinning and lots more, very embarrassing) at the local track (sorry dust bowl ;-) ) anyway i've found this setup works for my car:

Rear
-2 deg toe-in
-3 camber
black springs
50wt oil
25 V-slick with medium insert tyres

Front
-1 toe-in
-1 camber
50wt oil
35 V-slick with hard inserts
Yellow springs
Standard castor

This set-up works great during the day while its hot but when its dark, well lets just say back to spin city :-( Any thoughts.. i'm thinking using softer tyres all around

Leigh

[leighindubai]

sorry forgot to mention its running at 4mm ride height

;-)

[uaerc]

Are you using the same rear shock mounting positions? How about suspension travel stop screws?
You must have some slack in the suspension for not perfect surfaces.
When you set rear ride height at...let's say 5 mm, are your shocks already extended in full length due to spring tension (even on the ground)? This means you pre-loaded the shocks. Actually this might be OK but you need make sure two rear shocks length are exactly same. Unless you are creating tweak.

I don't think pre-loading shock is good since it will take away the initial spring's softer actions. If you could take a picture of rear suspension, I could see what's going on.

Hi
The car is setup almost as per manual. rear shock mounting position is IN as per manual. suspension travel screw is '0'

OK, I have taken some pictures..... but the transfer cable not working. Will load them tommorrow.

Regards
Aziz

[uaerc]

Here's the pics requested.

[uaerc]

Another one........looks good deosnt it ! :cool:

This is a HPI F 150 body which didnt come out really...but its ok. !

Any reviews on this body ? anyone.

Regards
Aziz

[sgi4side]

Recently I aquired a V one S and it still has the stock GS Motor. I am having problem getting it running. The engine will start for 5 second then it will die and then the engine will not start again until I clear out the gas inside the engin. So it looks like the engine is flooded everytime after I start the car. Can some one please teach me how to tune this engin?

[ExtremeDuty]

Recently I aquired a V one S and it still has the stock GS Motor. I am having problem getting it running. The engine will start for 5 second then it will die and then the engine will not start again until I clear out the gas inside the engin. So it looks like the engine is flooded everytime after I start the car. Can some one please teach me how to tune this engin?

I guess you would get more response from "Nitro forum" for a general engine questions.

Engine flooding means well....it's being flooded by fuel, too much fuel.
I believe the stock engine does have two needle carb. First you need to check the main needle (high speed needle) setting by running your car at wide open throttle for a while to see if it is set correctly. Please refer the manaul how many turns you need to open the high speed needle and low speed needle. Once you find a right spot for the high speed needle and then adjust the low speed needle to idle to mid speed throttle response.

If you are flooding every time, I would check the high speed needle first.
Do find the factory needle setting for your engine and start closing the high speed needle by 1/8 turn.

[ExtremeDuty]

Here's the pics requested.

In the picture, I really can't see the lower portion. I wanted to see the suspension arm stop screws. Anyway, I see you are following factory setup.
With factory suspension setup with rubber tire and about 5 mm of ride height should give you some downward movement of rear suspension when the car is lifted from ground. (or you need to adjust suspension stop screws).

I also took some pictures of my car but they didn't come out nice.

[ExtremeDuty]

Another one........looks good deosnt it ! :cool:

This is a HPI F 150 body which didnt come out really...but its ok. !

Any reviews on this body ? anyone.

Regards
Aziz

I didn't know you like the lowered truck bodies. I do like those slammed trucks. Having a truck body also could contribute to your rear-end sliding problem. You better put a HUGH~~~ nasty looking 3 or 4 layers of rear wingz... :D :D :D

[ExtremeDuty]

All right, I was really busy at work but still made some time to go out to run my RR. I wanted give you updates on my running, but was very tired every day.

Since my last post about running my RR, I went out about 5 or 6 times.
There had been so much swearing due to pulleys and belts being damaged by road debris. The front belt is about to give up and I had to change the front small pulley (18t) twice. Last weekend I was so mad about the damage and decided to sell all of my On-road RC cars to get a 1/8 buggy. As I was cleaning and repairing the RR, I changed my mind and came back to my RR... :p However, some day I will get a shaft driven car. While I was at repairing, I realized that Reflex NT's front side belt pulley is 27t. RR's stock one is 25t. Having a high side belt tension actually casued the main chassis plate bending. I knew the chassis plate was bent before but couldn't figure out why. With 25t pulley, the chassis is straight and rolling resistence is very low. Before my RR didn't turn-in aggressively and showed some under-steering. I figured I put too much thick silicone oil in the front diff. Now the front diff has less thick silicone oil and turns into corners easiler.

I put a custom-made lexan shield in front of "18t" front pulley to deflect some of small stones and it seemed to help a little. Very small pebbles do get in there but they don't do much damage.

Last 6 runs, I have been trying to sort out the handling of RR. Still it shows different turning characteristic for left and right. Transitioning of turning to right is very perfect but turning to left is somewhat not smooth and linear. So far I checked chassis setup 4 times and lengthes of tie-rods & shocks. This weekend, I will try to run a few more times to pin-point the source of unbalanced handling. Except this, I have reached very comfortable setting. One thing I noticed is rear end has too much traction. Probably try to reduce rear toe-in angle.

My currect setup:
Front toe-out: 1 deg
Front camber: -2 deg
Front caster: stock

Rear toe-in: 3 deg
Rear camber: -3 deg

Anyone has suggestion on how to approach on unbalanced left-to-right handling? Is this something to do with tweak?

[ExtremeDuty]

Heya~ How come everyone is so quite?

I ran my car today at the same place, a local elementary school parking lot.
The foam tires are worn down pretty good and ride height was about 3-4mm. I didn't want to 'waste' expensive new foam tires for setting up. So I spent some time gluing 2 sets of rubber tires. One set, left over from Team Losi's XXX-S tires, was mounted on my RR.

Rear foam tires showed little bit of over coning due to -3 camber. I re-set rear camber at -2 and left the rear toe-in as it was at -3 deg.

With a fresh set of rubber tires, RR was all over the place. RR still showed different left and right turning, but I was able to adjust my driving style so that both turning chracteristics were balanced. After doing some rough manuvers (spelling???), these rubber tires showed severe tread wearing and they were very warm. Since I don't get to race much, I always tend to forget how gentle I should drive. one of reasons why I couldn't get RR under my control is driving at unlimited space without any course setup. As I pay more attention to my throttling, RR became to respond my input better and better. Rubber tires made the car very fish-tailing happy.... :D :D :D I had to reduce lot of steering to keep it under control.

Oh, my RR flipped over and rolled 3 times but luckily nothing was damaged...not even engine head :eek:

Now I need to find a good way of setting up my own track. Road-Dome looked promising but its price is way over my head.

[ExtremeDuty]

How's all doing?

I ran my RR several times since my last post. Well.... I just couldn't figure out what the hack is wrong with my car. After all kinds of checking, it still does turn right better than left. When it turns right, it has slight tendency of over-steer (which I really like) and for left turn it has under-steer, which makes quite hard to drive.

Yesterday, my RR's left rear drive dogbone became loose. I think compressed air blew off the rubber O-ring that was taking space up between diff drive cup and dog bone. At home, I realized the location of diff is skewed to right giving a longer distance between drive cups on left side. So, I properly gapped the space with O-ring and cut fuel tubing.

Since I started using rubber tires (i.e. more ride height - 5 or 6 mm), I didn't have belt & pulley damaged.

[ExtremeDuty]

You dog~ :D

LOL, just like the current TacoBell ad... I got fully "full" this weekend. :D :D :D

After one hour of wrenching on Saturday night, today, I finally got everything straightened out. The engine & car are ready for any battle as long as my driving skill is up to the task. :o

You know funny thing is that I just can't get two front tie-rods' length exactly same. So far I checked the lengths of tie-rods 5-6 times hoping that I get them correctly. I did use my Hudy setup fixture and caliper to measure the length and angle of left or right turning carefully. Looks like it took about 6 months to set the same length. I had this same problem with my old TC3. After two years later, I figured out ill-handling problem was unequal length of tie-rods. This time I knew tie-rod problem, but I just couldn't do it.
I better check my eye sight...

To promote more aggressive turn-in during initial turning, I added more toe-out. I didn't measure it but it looks like almore 1.5 - 2.0 degrees out. Anyway it works fantastic.

Here is my final setup:
Front - Toe out: 1.5 - 2.0 deg
Camber: -1 deg
Caster: stock
Ride height: 5 mm
Shock oil: 60 wt
Regular diff w/ V-one-R stock diff wt.
Rear - Toe in: 3 deg
Camber: -2 deg (seems too hard on tires, I may try -1)
Ride height: 5 - 6 mm
Shock oil: 60 wt
Regular diff w/ V-one_R stock diff wt.

To save foam tires, I use left over rubber tires. I hope this setup works OK with foam tires.

Now everything is golden, but I don't have time to go to a track. :( There is only one permanent aspalt track 1 hour 15 minutes from my house. I've been there two weeks ago. It's just too far even for a monthly visit. It's nice to have a dedicated permanent track but it was smaller than I hoped for.
Even if there are 3-4 close places having bi-weekly parking lot races, their tracks are temporary and built for electric touring cars, i.e. not technical...just way too small for nitro cars.

So, any one ran V-one's lately?

[uaerc]

Good to hear that...

Well I am still awaiting my parts shipment. :(

But have been running my K3 lately :)

[ExtremeDuty]

Good to hear that...

Well I am still awaiting my parts shipment. :(

But have been running my K3 lately :)

What is K3? Plz don't tell me it's a Kanai III.... :D
It will sure hurt my feeling!

[uaerc]

sorry...mate!!


YES, I meant Kanai 3 :)

lol

[ExtremeDuty]

sorry...mate!!


YES, I meant Kanai 3 :)

lol

Argh~~~ why? why? why? why~~~ :p
Regardless of brand, I just want to have a 1/8th buggy but there is no where around here to run it.
It's funny. Around metro area, every bit of gound of paved or laid with concrete, and there is no decent size of dirt to run off-load cars.
Now, I see many people consider touring cars as prime bash cars.
Enjoy your K3.
When I find a nice dirt area close my house, I will probably get a cheap buggy as a total bash car.

[rc addict]

Kyosho ROCKS

[ExtremeDuty]

Kyosho ROCKS

OMG, OMG, how did you know??? :D

[uaerc]

I told him ! :)

[uaerc]

wrong post.

[ExtremeDuty]

Co-workers have been asking about a picture of my V-1-RR that I posted on my file cabinet. They wanted to check out and see it running.

So, I brought mine to office and, wow, there were people swarming around my RR like bees... :D They all liked it.

I didn't want to run it since the parking surface around my office is very bad; rough aspalt and lots of big cracks. However, they were begging... ;)

They were very curious about glow ignitor, starter box, and my equipment. Since the back lot of my office was a small place, I couldn't show them high speed running but they seemed to be very happy to see it running anyway. Unfortunately, the RR rolled over three time BIG!! :mad: :mad: :mad: Aspalt surface was really bad and some of cracks had over 1/2" gaps. Luckily, engine head wasn't damaged at all. Air filter housing and both front & rear body posts took the beatings. Considering the amplitude & amount of rolling, the actually damage is almost close to nothing.

Today, my Kyosho RR rocked, really rocked!! This is another example why Kyosho rocks! :D

[uaerc]

Even I had the worst days the day before, My V one RR is like having the worst setup I think I will definately have to change the tires and redo the whole camber castor toe in thing all over again. It just doest hold the ground spins all over the place. first the straigts were great Now I cant even control it on the straights. It runs fine until it reaches top RPM when the car just turns left.......or lets say pulls towars the left.. really strange.

Regards
aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

Even I had the worst days the day before, My V one RR is like having the worst setup I think I will definately have to change the tires and redo the whole camber castor toe in thing all over again. It just doest hold the ground spins all over the place. first the straigts were great Now I cant even control it on the straights. It runs fine until it reaches top RPM when the car just turns left.......or lets say pulls towars the left.. really strange.

Regards
aziz

I hope everything works out best for you. I find RR should be a good race contender just w/ box setup or even a generic touring car setup.

Also, you could ship your RR to me for an evaluation... :D
Dr. ExtremeDuty shall fix everything for you. Just joking!

[uaerc]

ExtremeDuty

I think will Reopen the whole car and redo the whole thing once again to just get the factory settings back.

Replace ball bearings if i need to and replace any oil if required...

In other words redo the whole car once again.

Regards
Aziz

[ExtremeDuty]

Hey, Aziz.
That is exactly what I would do. Tear down everything and examine, relube, and putting together.

By the way, besides Aziz & me, where are all the V-one owners?
I know this car is getting old but it's been too quite.

[uaerc]

yeah its been really quite lately...

I think ppl have moved to the FW-05 R ...... lol
Regards
Aziz

[leighindubai]

Help needed.... i'm trying to fit the carbon upper deck to my v-one-s and having huge problems sorting the linkages. I'm finding that the throttle is not opening fully is there any trick to this?

Leigh

[ExtremeDuty]

Help needed.... i'm trying to fit the carbon upper deck to my v-one-s and having huge problems sorting the linkages. I'm finding that the throttle is not opening fully is there any trick to this?

Leigh

Are you using either Kyosho's original option deck or aftermarket ones? I don't have "S' but they should fit just fine and throttle should work OK>

Does "S" use drum or linear throttle? A picture would be good for helping you. Did you try to tilt the carb body either left to right? Since I don't know what kind of carb you have, I can only imagine things here... :(

Breathe deep and think throughly...then you shall find a way!

[ExtremeDuty]

Well, I guess no one runs V-one's any more? Maybe everybody is waiting for RRR?

Anyway, I had a hack of fun today running my RR. For the last month or so, I was losing interest in Nitro touring cars and started looking at my dust collecting XXX-S. I ended up ordering new batteries for it.

I went out to the same spot, a local elementary school parking lot, to run mine before selling the RR on eBay. :( I just liked the easiness of electric touring car's handling due to feather-like weight. Well, after burning three tanks of fuel.... :D I decided to keep it! It was way too much fun & bashing compared to the XXX-S.

On the first tank, the used rubber tire gave up and its gut fell out! Since I didn't want to use brand new foam tires, I reached for two pairs of used foam tires that couldn't be used in a race. I simply jacked up the suspension fully due to very small tire diameters. With the foam tires, I felt immediately much better traction. The rear tires had less than 2 mm or 1/8 inch. After doing some zig-zag's for warm-up, I started drifting the car all over the place. Foam tires resisted slipping but I was pushing really hard to get the car to drift. Soon after the rear tires started chunking on the outer edge and chunking spreaded inward.

After burning two more tanks, I came back with a hugh smily face... :D

[kujiro]

are there anyone having trouble fitting a new engine for v one s plus using carbon upper deck........i got clueless to fix it....i'm using slide carb......

[xtian119]

Hi guys,

I just want to ask a question. I have kept my V-One-S for a year without running the engine. Will the engine for my V-One-S still run even if I haven't used for a year now? How about the fuel for the nitro engine can it still be used even if it is stored for a long time. Thanks in advance :D.

[BALISTC]

Well I have a V-One RR Evo..

Custom airbrushed Frewer Lola Outlaw shell
Sirio Evo 2 5-port Outlaw .12 engine
Motorsaver air filter
Hard Racing Shark Outlaw pipe and manifold
RC Screwz stainless steel screw set

Whole list of 3 Racing components:
Carbon fibre front shock tower
Carbon fibre front body plate
Carbon fibre upper deck
Carbon fibre A-Arm support
Aluminium wheel adaptors
Aluminium Left side mount supporter with ball bearings
Aluminium Rear shock tower
Aluminium Brake bar
Aluminium Rear body stay
Aluminium Rear upper arm
Aluminium Front upper arm mounts
Stainless Steel roll bar
Fast gear conversion kit including machined alloy pulleys
Reinforced drive belts
Lower Centre of gravity heatsink engine mounts


There is NO WAY I'll be getting rid of this car.......its an awesome machine, and considering its my basher (I dont race), its a bit overkill already :p

[ExtremeDuty]

Hi guys,

I just want to ask a question. I have kept my V-One-S for a year without running the engine. Will the engine for my V-One-S still run even if I haven't used for a year now? How about the fuel for the nitro engine can it still be used even if it is stored for a long time. Thanks in advance :D.


If you did put a few drops of afterrun oil into the engine, you should have no problem at all. Ah, also, if you kept your car in a dry and cool place, everything would be good. or You can go ahead disassemble the engine and inspect all the internals and do the full cleaning before starting the engine.

For stored long fuel, everybody has a different opinion. I would just try out the fuel first. If you are not getting proper performance or engine overheats, then I would get a new fresh fuel. Was the fuel bottle stored in a dry/cool place also and sealed properly? During off season, I store fuel bottles upto 6 months w/o any problem.

My V-1-RR went into storage already....thanks to Michigan's already cooling weather. Instead MadForce is up and ready for winter snow action!! :D

[mr.fury]

Hey...any of you V-One R/RR owners have a brand new OR SLIGHTLY used front "210" belt and same for the "roll bar/handle" i could buy from you?.....My belt poped and my roll bar was cracked in a recent.."RC and full scale" accident....gieco car insurance wouldn't accept my rc so i have to come out of pocket..lol...but if someone has those 2 parts please email me back ASAP!!!!!!..just trying to save money....

[adamkerrnz]

hey all you proud kyosho nitro owners,
ive had a v-one-r evolution for about half a year and its a great car, im running foam tyres on my local outdoor track. it is the tightest outdoor onroad track in my country (New Zealand) im just wandering if other people have problems with the rear dogbones popping out? im thinking of buying a pair of front ones as they are longer and chucking them in the back.
i have relocated the reciever on my car so that it sits infront of the fuel tank (ive sealed the reciever) i was a bit paranoid of my reciever being broken by a side impact (the evo rx sits on the side of the car normally). also do you guys have any tips on shock oil weights for running foams, its becoming summer here at the moment and the weather's warming up so that needs to be taken in mind.
also whats a good muffler to run on a OS.12TR engine. the one i have at the moment is a Team Kyosho tuned pipe but it is full of dents and is on the verge of splitting open.

Thanks for the help :)
Adam
(proud v-one-r owner)

[ExtremeDuty]

hey all you proud kyosho nitro owners,
ive had a v-one-r evolution for about half a year and its a great car, im running foam tyres on my local outdoor track. it is the tightest outdoor onroad track in my country (New Zealand) im just wandering if other people have problems with the rear dogbones popping out? im thinking of buying a pair of front ones as they are longer and chucking them in the back.
i have relocated the reciever on my car so that it sits infront of the fuel tank (ive sealed the reciever) i was a bit paranoid of my reciever being broken by a side impact (the evo rx sits on the side of the car normally). also do you guys have any tips on shock oil weights for running foams, its becoming summer here at the moment and the weather's warming up so that needs to be taken in mind.
also whats a good muffler to run on a OS.12TR engine. the one i have at the moment is a Team Kyosho tuned pipe but it is full of dents and is on the verge of splitting open.

Thanks for the help :)
Adam
(proud v-one-r owner)


Since RR EVO & RR are still very close, maybe I can explain some...
If you close carefully, the rear diff assembly is off centered. This off-centered diff creates two different spacings on right and left side. On my RR, the distance between dogbone cups of diff and axle on right is shorter than left side. (By the way, I'm looking the car from the rear-end)
Even if you put O-rings per instruction manual, there is more play at left side. So I put some cut fuel tubes into left side to have the both side get the same play.

Hope this helps!

By the way, I strongly believe this thread is "permanently closed. There is almost no traffic. I, myself, move to V-one-series thread at www.rctech.net. There are more traffic and you get your questions answered very quick!

[gtfan04]

can some one give me a link or a part number for a carbon fiber upper deck for my v one rr , will the evo upper deck fit my rr even though mine is not a evo,or can some one help find the part number for me ,thanks alot guys appreciate it

[pleaseletmeon34]

can some one give me a link or a part number for a carbon fiber upper deck for my v one rr , will the evo upper deck fit my rr even though mine is not a evo,or can some one help find the part number for me ,thanks alot guys appreciate it


VZW027 is the Kyosho part for the rr. The EVO one will not work by its self, but you could always convert the rr to an EVO.

[PCC]

Trying to resuscitate this thread.

I just got the RR Evo conversion for my RR. Nice stuff!

[Rusty_Noob]

Hey All,

I have just got myself a V-One-R from ebay dirt cheap ($51 as a roller), It came with a few problems (broken servo tabs for throttle on upper chassis and a missing drive shaft) I have nearly all the parts to get it up and running now. I put in a Ofna Picco .12 Roar legal with a trinity touring pipe, I hope this is a good combination!!!

My friend has an associated nitro TC3, Can I expect to keep up with his car? I know he has a stupidly powerful engine (A trinity sirio .12 5 port evo or something like that 1.6hp I think)

How well will the V-One-R cope with it?

Thanks
Jonny

[Wonchie]

Is there a problem with access to parts from Kyosho ?? I have read that they (Kyosho) have dropped there US distributor and now ship direct from Kyosho . I have been warned by my local dealer to expect to pay more for shipping for parts. He also told me that he has to submit a min order of $800 US. Kyosho wants there dealers to have "In house Stock" which my dealer refuses to ( not enough kyosho owners)
If I am going to pay $600 Can for a kit I want to know I am going to get access to parts at good fair price ! Should I be looking at a Mugen MTX-4 to compair ???

[Rusty_Noob]

The UK distributor has disappeared also so my LHS no longer carry Kyosho. There is still a french distributor so I order from france now.

[Wonchie]

Still does not help me out !! I'm across that big pond over in Canada . I'm thinking I am going with the Mugen MTX-4 ! The Hell with the Kyosho !!

[Rusty_Noob]

My friend has an associated nitro TC3, Can I expect to keep up with his car? I know he has a stupidly powerful engine (A trinity sirio .12 5 port evo or something like that 1.6hp I think)

How well will the V-One-R Picco .12 Roar legal and trinity pipe cope with it?

[mr.fury]

He guys..I know this isn't the right forum to post in but...PLEASE CHECK OUT AND LET EVERYONE KNOW WHO LOVES V-one R's that my whole set-up is for sale...CHECK IT OUT!!!!

PLEASE EMAIL ME AT: stls_illest@sbcglobal.net for any questions!!!


I AM TAKING OFFERS AS WE SPEAK!!!!!!!! PLEASE TAKE A LOOK GUYS!!!!!!




http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6063846112&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

[Nama]

hi guys. I have a V-One R and i keep stripping the first spur gear. even when the second is meshed perfectly the first is still a bit loose. Any Idea's? I bought it used so maybe it's doesn't have the correct gearing?. What should I look for here??, Thanks

[Nama]

OK Looks like the person I got it from used a FM363-45H as the second spur gear and a 47tooth gear as the first. I guess I should just order the original 1 and 2 spur. Any thoughts?