Kyosho Inferno MP 7.5 V2.0

[dgrobe2112]

Thanks for the props yall.. the racers edge kit cost 300 bux.. that includes everything.. and i mean everything.. even the front steering knuckles.. i wanna get the rear chubs.. in the same.. havent looks to see if they got them yet or not..

The LSD diff in the center made the car drive totally different.. i mean totally.. was like.. i turn the wheels and thats where it went.. was crazy.. totally different than my regular.. so it was almost having to learn to drive again.. heard they were better for blue groove.. i am thinkin of putting that diff in the front.. and maybe getting one of ofnas TORSEN diffs for the center..

Carbon will not melt or break at the pipe.. it does however get sorta brittle in the cold.. but what graphite dont.. so blaster, personally.. i think the carbon looks good.. but i wouldn not run carbon towers.. i did.. try the carbon side guards.. but im not good enough to race with parts like that.. they broke.. where i screwed them to the chassis

[dgrobe2112]

Buggy looks sweeter now.. got a pretty WS7II head stickin out the top.. with some pretty orange fuel line.. looks good..

[uDi_MP75]

Buggy looks pretty sweet d-grobe, i also like those filters lol! I will either buy a pair like that, random lhs ones, or if I can find one cheap, another Kyosho one so I can double up.

This was my K2 as of about a month ago..

http://server5.uploadit.org/files/Uditha-K23.jpg
http://server5.uploadit.org/files/Uditha-K27.jpg

Right now the V01 is all in pieces ready to have a new rod transplanted in, and more importantly, sitting in the car is my C5 Circuit - fresh lightened ally clutchshoes, 1.0 springs, and the 063. Will get a new cooling head for it sometime soon too, likely one of those nova milled ones - anyone had any experience with them here?

Itching to take it for a spin.. need to go pick up some fuel first though.

[dgrobe2112]

I am diggin that rear wing.. that gunmetal is slick..

well UDI, i see you got a VO1, i got 2 of them.. if your interested.. i am selling them.. i got WS7 motors now.. so.. no need for those.. they are just taken out.. sell both of them for 225 shipped.. one is just broke in.. has new rod, crank, and fresh pinch from OSrocket.. that is the motor shown in the pics above.. i got another one that i have had the longest.. bought it.. been my best motor as a matter of fact.. got around 5-6 gallons in it.. still fast.. bot start right up and run..

[dgrobe2112]

By the way.. those are Racers Edge fuel filters..

[uDi_MP75]

I'd probably buy one and keep it around but it doesn't end up being too economical to get stuff posted from over there, so i'll prolly be best off just picking up the new rod and maybe a complete rebuild later... would definately do the squeeze thing instead if there was someone over here to do it.

I got a set of gunmetal rims to go with the wing as well but no tyres for them yet, whenever those knuckles on the dishes decide to wear out i'll get a new set for the gunmetals.

racers edge stuff looks neat but way too expensive for me lol

what ko servos are you running there, and do you like them? I'm thinking about getting a 2344 for steering.. and maybe a cheaper one for throttle.

[dgrobe2112]

Well, i dont know the throttle servo number it is worn off.. from the servo linkage rubbing it. And the ko servo i had on the steering broke.. now i got the Airtronics 357 high speed for the steering.. never a problem with that..

Where are you from UDI??

[uDi_MP75]

Sorry this forum doesn't list user location under name... I'm in australia.

What actually happened to the KO on steering? dammit this isn't helping me decide on one. Might just stick with good old futaba.

[dgrobe2112]

nothin wrong with KO servos.. only thing was all their servos.. and now.. every other high dollar servo come with 1 plastic gear on the bottom.. kinda like a failsafe.... and my hobby shop dont have the gears for KO servos.. he does have Airtronics plastic gear replacements, so i bought some of those.. there is like 5 gears for like 5 bux or something.. tried a gear in the KO.. didnt match.. so i ended up getting the Airtronics.. i still got the KO gear.. just dont got the plastic gear for it..

[Ninja Viper]

Hey Udi, can you give us list of those mods?? Very sweet looking ride there!

[theShark]

anyone know if the bottom screw holes on ofna universal mounts match with the 7.5 chassis holes?

[dgrobe2112]

If your talkin about motor mounts.. i highly doubt it. i havent tried it.. but i dont think it will work

[uDi_MP75]

cheers dg - which in your opinion makes more power? out of the two steerers you've tried. Just heard the KO make more power for their specs generally..

Ninja - thanks, its mostly stock though, just how I like it :)
There's a set of K-factory clipless hingepins and front torque rod (which I don't really like), no-name rear cnc torque rod (which I like but it's cracking near the bottom).. and thats it other than some screws and stuff.

[dgrobe2112]

Well, right at this moment.. the Airtronics makes more power.. a 200oz servo is pretty hard to beat.. but the KO that was in there.. was faster.. i took out the 200oz cuz it wasnt as fast.. i put in a Airtronics 357 .07 speed servo.. with 125oz.. with buggy i think anything over 100oz should be fine..

[RCisLife]

Cool ride, Udi!
Well guys, I finally broke the P5 in last weekend and all I have to say *****.... this was money VERY well spent. I am extremely satisfied with its performace and tunning. I coupled it with the OS T2050 pipe and the Fioroni T-sliding clutch. It grabs on instantly with a slight squeeze of the trigger..
I still have the WS7II to break in, but until the RMV Speed II clutch set arrives.. it'll just continue looking pretty on my work bench. Can't wait to fire up that poonanie.

I took some before and after pics.. but can't seem to figure out how to post'em. And when I do.. "radiocontrolzone administrator" tells me that its size is too big to fit the screen. I guess I have to try to find a way to shrink its size down...

Any word of Kanaidude and those long awaited body's?

[dgrobe2112]

I finally broke in my WS7II, broke it in.. and ran it around the house.. and DANG!!!!.. i temped at 180.. and was flyin.. so i decided to take it to the track Sunday for the races.. ran it in the races.. I was very pleased with the power i have with it.. clears everything with ease.. i did however.. seem to be a little boggy on the bottom.. but then once it cleared that bog.. gone.. like a switch.. still temping at 180.. the whole time.. i was told by RB that i need to run it in the 230 range.. but i dont think i need all that power.. i am thinkin of leaning the bottom to try to get rid of that bog..

[Viral_Fusion]

Hey, does anyone else have clearence problems with the throttle/brake servo linkages?

the bottom brake linkage keeps getting stuck on the side of my servo so it sometimes gets stuck on WOT, i removed the bottom half of it for a quick fix but that makes my cars breakes nearly unusable with only 1 of the 2 disks working...

[atm92484_3]

DG, that "flat spot" is part of the WS7's powerband. Supposedly it was fixed on the WS7-2. Try running a harder spring though to prevent the clutch from engauging so early and possibly drilling the shoes out.

Viral, try to find what exactly is hitting. If its the screw, grind some off. Otherwise, be sure that you used the right plastic linkage parts on the top and bottom. If I remember correctly, one sits higher and should be on top; otherwise it will hit the servo.

[7.5man]

DG:

You will be very impressed if you get the optional 48 tooth spur gear. I use that with K composite 3 shoe (drilled), 13 tooth clutch bell, and 1.0 springs The 48 tooth really wakes up the bottom end and yes the engine should be run at no less than about 225-230. Any less heat and your just wearing away the pinch on the sleeve and piston on your engine.

:)

[Viral_Fusion]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
DG, that "flat spot" is part of the WS7's powerband. Supposedly it was fixed on the WS7-2. Try running a harder spring though to prevent the clutch from engauging so early and possibly drilling the shoes out.

Viral, try to find what exactly is hitting. If its the screw, grind some off. Otherwise, be sure that you used the right plastic linkage parts on the top and bottom. If I remember correctly, one sits higher and should be on top; otherwise it will hit the servo.


AH HA!!! ok wow i just solved it, well u were kinda right, you know the little peice of plastic that the 2 linkages are attacked to, then its inturn attacked to the servo horn, well it has a little bump sticking out of it so to create clearence between the 2 linkages. I had that thing pointing down so it moved the bottom attahment lower then it should be, now that its upwards it solves everything, WoW this has been like this since i first built the car in january of last year, and i have been keeping up with most cars with crappy breakes i wonder how much faster i can get into and out of corners now...

Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

Thanks guys.. i am running 1.1 spings with drilled shoes.. got that info from another site.. I was also told about the 48t spur gear.. i need to check into that.. So what does the car come with stock?? 46??

[theShark]

yea, stock is 46....can anyone confirm that the fioroni front chassis brace mounts to the bottom of the bulkhead brace? I think I saw a pic of it mounting on top but it might be a different car.

[dgrobe2112]

Where did you see a pic of it mounting on top?? it should mount on the bottom..

[theShark]

not sure, it was a while ago and I might be confused. Its like everyone uses the k-factory braces...whats so good about them besides its threaded? looks like if the threads strip it's useless.

[dgrobe2112]

I use racers edge.. has a {** in it to put a nut inside.. and thread into it.. that way it wont mess up.. instead of the threads on the inside of the brace.. or the nut sticking out the top of the brace...

www.racers-edge.com

i got the pro series..

[KanaiDude]

Hey guys I got 2 bodies done, thanks for being so pateint, 1 for RC and 1 for Dgrobe, if you don't like them thats cool I can sell them elsewhere if you want a different color pattern etc. let me know.

[KanaiDude]

and this one... Cheers!

[KanaiDude]

Remember the images are saved as jpegs at 72 dpi so the lines are alot cleaner then they appear in the picture, the color is "fairly" acurate, the one with the drips is purple though on the rear even though it looks sorta blue, i can email you better pics if you want...

[team_luigis]

Originally posted by dgrobe2112
and 1 more.. little closer on the parts..
who makes those purple fuel filters ???

[dgrobe2112]

Those bodies look slick.. very impressed.. i like the 2nd one.. but that green is just not me.. so i like the 1st one better..

Those fuel filters are blue.. scratched up a little.. made by racers edge..

[jdavid2002]

Kanai! Those bodies are sweet! I like the 2nd one, hell I like both of them. What kind of airbrush and stuff did you use? Do you mask them with the blue 3M tape or do you use that liquid mask or something? Good work!

[KanaiDude]

Hey thanks for the kudos! I've been using a badger 200 medium and 150 fine tip brush and commercial masks from parma, but I think i'm going to pick up a parma faskolor f1 airbrush as i use faskolor paint and i have a feeling they are meant to be used together. I'm also gonna swith to the liquid mask as the vinyl works good but its not as easy as peel and stick, some of the corners on the bodies are very tough to get to, and i think the liquid will work better, cost cheaper, and take just a little longer. Sorry about the green dgrobe lol, I was sort of painting it to match the k2 green, you'll like the purple with orange drips though they are always a big hit.

[Ninja Viper]

If you don't have a sale for the 2nd one, put my name down! Nice work, very nice!

[KanaiDude]

Sounds good Ninja, i'm asking 50$ shipped usps priority (you guys think this is fair?), I'm going to email RC if he doesn't get back to me in a few days i'll let you know! I'm going to start painting more regularly so I'll keep you guys posted if I get more done. I'll post one of the dragon/flame design i'm doing now, i'm gonna have to keep that one though!

So anyone running a black head sirio, i'm going to break mine in this weekend just wondering if anyone has any experience, that thing is so tight may have to loosen the glow plug or something we'll see. I put that fioroni clutch on there to, so i'll be running a whole new beast this weekend, and it's going to be 72 degrees in NC this weekend WOOT!

[dgrobe2112]

Hey Kanai, i got a design i would like for you to try.. i just had a truck painted.. and think i would like a buggy painted the same.. let me know.. i will get pics soon..

I raced my WS7II this weekend.. and have almost 1 gallon of fuel in the motor.. and that thing is still tight.. i cant even turn it over with my finger.. fast.. fast.. fast.. and i am still fat.. that is the main reason for not leaning it down.. cuz i really dont need any more power.. :) but i will start getting it faster..

[KanaiDude]

Dgrobe thats cool I can paint one in your style if you'd like. Let me know guys if you want a body or not, I could ship them friday if anyone wants one, otherwise I'm probablly going to put them on ebay or let them go at the race this weekend. I sent you better pics dgrobe through email i don't know if you got them.

Excited about firing up my sirio, not that my p5 really needs to be shelved at all, with maybe 2 gallons on it I think it's about broken in, running pretty smooth. The only thing i don't like about the motor is it seems to be a little boggy on the low end, i've tried countless times to get rid of the bog, but I think it's sort of the nature of the beast, because once it's sparked up it's perfect, running 240 after a 20 minute main. But I just don't like the fact that it seems to collect fuel when it idles for more then 15 seconds, I don't think the sirio will do that, I guess I am very used to the reliability of an RZ vo1 motor, we'll see this weekend...

[dgrobe2112]

did you get the green head sirio?? that Kanai motor.. also.. the p5 is a great bottom end motor.. could be clutch.. could be fat on the bottom.. i learned alot about motors this weekend at the rcpro series.. and i dont know everything.. but i was having problems with a low end bog.. and they showed me how to handle it.. i had the right clutch setup.. and gearing.. but i was too fat on the bottom.. i did the pinch test.. and the guy told me not to do that.. what you do is get the car up to temp.. stop.. let it idle for 6-10 seconds.. then gas it.. if you got a good plume of smoke when you take off.. your good.. so i was able to lean the bottom some more.. from where i had it with the pinch test.. and it flat flew..

[KanaiDude]

It's the black head sirio, my p5 does have great bottom end, as long as it stays sparked up it's a fricken beast, if it sits for 5-10 seconds it takes a second or two to clear the bog thats all, even when leaning the low end a little. I've had the new sirio sitting for like 6months and noticed a spot or two of humidity like corrosion on the crank, so I figured it would be best to fire it up, so I'll have my choice to race with this summer, maybe swap them out a bit.

[dgrobe2112]

Same here.. i got a WS7, and a WS7II.. i am gonna run the WS7II in the big races.. and my WS7 at local and club races.. i got a few big races that i am attending this year.. RCpro series..

www.rcproseries.com south division.. also got some Nitro Inviationals this year.. and other invites as well

[KanaiDude]

Nice, thats the first I've looked really close at the RCpro series. Hey do you know how the points work, does it reset every year? I saw how they are added up but I am curious how it works for people just getting on board. I am on the east coast here, the guy that is in 3rd place will be racing at my track this weekend eeek, maybe I can get some pointers! I love the logo for the pro series looks just like Major League baseball or something. To bad the first race this year was in florida two weeks ago, my wife was like we have to go to that! maybe next year for that one, the next race is comming up in a month or two, and its only 2.5 hours away I might have to make that one, is there only 3 races each year, and did it just start last year? thanks for any info... So I might mount the drips body on my k2 tommorrow and sell the green one at the track, speak now!

[dgrobe2112]

Im not sure how long the series has been running.. they only give points for the mains.. some of our mains got rained out so they gave points on where you qualified. They only take your best 2 events.. so if you miss one.. your ok.. so you can go to the next 2 and still be competative.. its alot of fun, last year Adam Drake won the 1/10 gas truck overall. Also, if you qualify for the finals.. the finals this year are in Florida. So you will get to race against people from here.. and also the west and north divisions as well.. I think its neat.. yes the points reset every year..

the points you see in the south 2004 is the points for 1 weekend.. i think the leader has 210..

[dgrobe2112]

here is the link to the points after this first race weekend..

http://rcproseries.com/divisions/central/2004/points/index.php

[=[flame]=]

hi

i have been getting my sports ready for this coming summer and i just wanted to know what all u guys thought of it:

http://www.kyosho.nl/jone.small.jpg

http://www.kyosho.nl/jonesmall.jpg

thx

------------------------
flame

[jeroen]

I like it

Its something different.

[Viral_Fusion]

blue's in the back, and whites in the fron, hows that running for ya, i would imagine it would be good for a track with some larger bumbs.

I see alot of people running black springs at my track, i'm guessing those are stock for the standart 7.5, anyone know if they are harder or softer then the blues?

[=[flame]=]

yea, i only bash with my 7.5. its always nice to have hard suspention at the front when driving over big bumps and jumps.

I'd say that the black springs are a bit harder then the blue springs. but im not sure

[7.5man]

Viral_fusion:

The order of hardness for the Kyosho springs from softest to hard
is black, blue, white.

I believe that MIP make a progressive rated spring and they are brown in color.

I race and use blue springs exclusively. I tune my shocks by oil weight if I need a bit more hardness or softness. A good starting weight with blue springs is 40-50 in front and 30-40 in back.

enjoy.....:)

[dgrobe2112]

i run 50 in the front.. and 30 in the rear.. am thinkin of lowering the oil in the front to 40..

[7.5man]

dgrobe:

On our home track it gets quite rutted. I find 40 in front and 30 in the back works very well on a rutted, bumpy, and good size jumps track. I'd like to try 45 in the front though just to help keep the nose up a bit on big jumps.


:)

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. i want to try 40 in the front.. to help with the lift of the buggy over the jumps.. but.. i havent had any probs with it lately.. could be just the jumps at the home track is a little messed up..

[RCisLife]

KanaiDude: Thanks for keeping me in mind.. and I apologize for not posting back here more frequently. I was out on vacation for the past 2weeks or so. Anyhow, I'm back now. With regards to the bodies.. they look sweet!!! I'm interested in the one with the green in the rear.. nice designs! If you haven't already sold it, I'll take it!
What's your email address? Here's mine: rcislife@yahoo.com

Let me know how you'd like the funds to be forwarded to you.

Thanks again! :)

[KanaiDude]

Dude! I sold it at the track this weekend! sorry man, anyway I still have the purple and orange one. I do have some more bodies to work on, but it might be another month before I get to them, I will keep you posted.

I raced my gas10 this weekend instead of 1/8 scale I could have ran both, but I was worried there wouldn't be enough heats and I would be running back to back. I had a blast though cam in 8th out of 18 not bad for my first time, was alot of fun though a little more relaxing, but I was wishing I was running when the beasts were out on the track!

[RCisLife]

Kanai: Do you have pics of the purple one? or pics of the two you have for sale??
Are those painted on the Wasp bodies?

[KanaiDude]

RC I was just refering to the purple body with orange drips I have posted on the previous page. If you want a better pic of the purple body let me know and I will email it to you. I have a few 7.5 bodies that I am going to start working on in the next week or two. What do you mean by are those painted on the wasp bodies?

[RCisLife]

The one you have left is the "painted1.jpg" ?? I'll take this one if you still have it + I'll take another one once you get it painted.
How would you like me to send the money to you? money order, paypal... ?

Regarding the "wasp" question; I was asking if the bodies are the Trinity Wasp 7.5, Proline Crowd Pleazer or the kyosho bodies.

Thank you for this deal..

[uDi_MP75]

Originally posted by team_luigis
who makes those purple fuel filters ???

do you still run your 7.5?? long time no see

nice bodys k-dude, you got some skill. I'd like to get into airbrushing one day, oh well quite some years ahead for me, might stick to good old spraycans for now.

RCisLife - they are wasps. ;)

[KanaiDude]

Hey RC cool yea I finally figured out what you were asking I think I was reading in the morning and having a brain cramp. They are wasp bodies like uDi said, thanks for the kudos! RC, yes it is the painted1.jpg, if you want to send the money via paypal thats cool my paypal account is "guyute73@hotmail.com" 50 dinero and I can ship it out fri/sat priority mail for you. I should have a few more painted in the next couple of weeks, I'll let you know when I'm getting close to finishing any of them. Cheers!

[KanaiDude]

I'm going to put that new white pro line wing on my buggy this friday, maybe some fresh crime fighters maybe not lol, the wing is nice seems a little sturdier and comes with cool stickers. Going to find a way to mount a new body post maybe on top of where the front torque rod goes into the brace, i have three bodies now with no nose piece! Any of you guys run gas10 truck along with 1/8 scale? going to start doing that on a regular basis now, makes for a fun day at a club race... bump this thread back where it belongs bump :D

[OldskoolGT]

Its pretty easy to to drill a hole next to where the torque rod mounts to the nose brace. It definitely seems to help prevent nose breakage.

Or you can buy a new K3 because it comes with a reinforcement for the nose breakage problem (piece of lexan that goes under the nose).

[KanaiDude]

I've seen that new nose piece looks cool, here it is at tower...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDRA5&P=Z

I was thinking about it last night, your exactly right Oldskool, drill a hole right behind the torque rod hole, and then mount a body post of some sort (maybe strip one off my ntc3), that should work very well...

[dgrobe2112]

Kdude.. i run both buggy and 1/10 gas truck too.. you almost have too.. cuz when you go to some bigger races.. you need something to pass the time.. and another class of race is what you need..

[RCisLife]

Kanai: I wanted to take this time to thank you for the nicely painted badass body. Also, the cool part was that I literally received shipment the next day!!!
As I asked before.. please let me know as soon as you have other bodies painted..

I'll post a picture of my ride with my its new body soon!

Take care ya'll

[KanaiDude]

RC glad your happy and thanks for the props! I told you it would look better in person, I need to get the photographing bodies down better. I have 3 more wasp bodies I'm working on, it's cool trinity finally is putting on overspray film on the top, I have 2 crowd pleasers also, I'll get back to you guys when they are almost done.

[KanaiDude]

Hey Gang, how often do you rebuild your Diffs? after every long race day, every 2 race days, if there is no leaking fluid maybe 3 or 4 race days?

[7.5man]

KanaiDude:

If the diffs are built properly with no leaks you should be able to get 3-5 gallons of fuel safely thru them. I usually run 4-5 gallons per diff unless I need to change fluid weight and they usually are still in great shape.

:)

[OldskoolGT]

TCD diffs can go around 4-5 gallons before you should change the oil. For standard diffs, I change the oil after 1 gallon of fuel's runtime. I really don't know how long the silicone oil can last inside a diff before it breaks down, but I think it makes the buggy more consistent of you change the oil frequently.

[KanaiDude]

Just what I had hoped for different opinions! I think I will stick with changing mine ever few race days, I'm with OldSchool I think the silicon can break down after a while, the front TCD though I will leave in for a few gallons before messing with it at all. Did you guys ever see that trick trinity center diff carrier? it was only like 80 dollars at tower, I thought that was high a while back but now knowing the same thing costs 120 from fioroni I wish the trinity one wasn't disconitinued...

[dgrobe2112]

WOW.. this new layout of the website is pretty slick..

Anyway.. the way to tell if you need a rebuild to to feel when you are spinning yor tires.. when you spin one.. if it spins very freely.. then its time for a rebuild.. i usually do mine after every 4 race weekends... unless i go to a big race.. and run a couple long mains.. like the 20 minute B main.. and then the 30 minute A.. that sorta deal..then i would go through my whole buggy.. also.. i usually do a complete rebuild of the car before big events.. meaning.. i take the car completely apart.. clean everything.. get all the gunk out of everything.. clean all the fluid.. shocks.. and diffs.. then rebuild the car.. not to say that i dont clean my car after each event.. just that before a big event.. i start lookin and replacing bearings and stuff..and as cheap as bearings.. are.. i have been replacing them for the big events.. instead of just cleaning them..

www.avidrc.com has bearings so cheap.. you cant go wrong.. and their bearings are great.. last rebuild.. i took all my bearings out.. and they were still silky smooth..

[KanaiDude]

dgrobe, you sound fairly fanatical like me! I was wondering how often you guys rebuilt to make sure I wasn't over doing it and wasting my time. I am the same way though buggy gets at least a good cleaning after race day, if i'm going to a big event (there were 93 entries a few weeks ago) then i'll break down most of the car rebuild shocks, new loctite, screws bearings, good engine cleaning. Can be so time consuming but very gratifying if your going racing the next day...

[dgrobe2112]

well, its better to make sure everything is good on a big race day.. cuz if you go to a big race.. and have problems.. and someone says.. so what happened.. and your like.. oh.. this screw was missing.. or soething like that.. rookie stuff.. i just like to have a clean car.. clean car is a good car.. and you catch all the loose stuff.. if you clean your car on a regular basis, you know where problems are.. and you can fix them.. and its nice to be able to pull out a clean car on race day

[uDi_MP75]

I rebuild my car every chance I get generally, a clean car is a fast car, and I don't think of it as a chore, it starts becoming part of the fun.

With the silicone - I don't think it actually breaks down, it's just that the small metal particles from the bevels mix in, turning the liquid a greyish black colour. And when that happens it's probably good to clean out and refill.

Thats my explanation anyway, am I wrong? If we had a hardened steel option for the normal bevels like in the LSD, I think the maint intervals would be a lot longer - since those dont seem to molt as much as the little ally ones do.

Is everyone running Kyosho red oil in their front lsd's, or has someone found an cheaper alternative? I've heard automatic trans fluid suggested - but wasnt sure if it'd be the same thickness etc. Red oil in mine still..

dgrobe - just looking at the avid 8x16's now, are you using the sealed ones? I need a new set of bearings, but undecided on what to get - my regular rolls relly smooth compared to my kanai because it has ungreased metal shields, and the kanai has a mix of teflon/rubber/metal all greased (I think thats why anyway) so what are the rubber sealed ones like, and what do avid use for lube, light oil or grease? Does it roll nice with a set in there? thanks

[dgrobe2112]

Udi, i have the rubber sealed ones.. my regular kyosho came with the metal sheiled ones.. my car rolls great.. no problems in them.. dont know what they use.. email David Joor about that.. he usually has a good section on his site with good Q and A.. but he is quick to respond.. tell him i sent you.. i spend a total of 36 bux with him.. and replaced every bearing in my car..

i dotn run the LSD diff in my car.. i got one.. but i dont run it...all i got is the black fluid.. not sure what the red or black does.. i have it filled with black and ready to go in.. but havent put it in..

as far as them turning silver.. i dont think its cuz of the metal flakes.. i had a diff tear up.. and all the metal flakes were on the bottom of the diff.. i think the silicone just breaks down like that.. silicone does break down.. you will notice.. like if you run 3k in the front.. and 1k in the rear.. or even with 7k in the center.. which is what i run.. when i redo mine.. you will notice a big difference between the diffs when you first redo them.. then when its time to redo them.. you will notice how much looser feeling each diff is..

[KanaiDude]

I have the same sort of feeling that it is actually the metal gears breaking down maybe combined with the silicon break down. I do notice very small metal flakes in the silicon and if you look at the gears very closely they do start to wear after a gallon or so, I replaced my gears a few months ago after 3 or 4 gallons and there was noticeable wear on the gears, not enough to cause problems if cleaned and filled, but enough for me to go ahead and replace them. I'm running the TCD up front with the red oil which is the thicker, I changed it last weekend and I really like it, I am running TCD,5,1 I will probably put 7 in the middle soon to get a little more punch but I think the TCD loosens up the front a bit, which is easier on me being a newer driver, I had tons of control but I do wanna switch to 7 middle and get a little more punch back.

[OldskoolGT]

You can use automotive gear oil for the TCD diffs. Kyosho TCD oil is synthetic gear oil, but nobody is quite sure what weight the oil it is. The red TCD oil is thicker than the black stuff, which makes the diff lock up faster. I have run Mobil 75w-90 in the rear TCD on my buggy and it appeared to work well. I think the Mobil oil was thinner than the red TCD oil.

I don't think you will find any ball bearings that roll better than the stock Kyosho bearings. I have had good luck with bearings from Avid though. If you ever see my driving, you will understand that rolling resistance is the least of my worries. :)

[KanaiDude]

How about acer bearings? I would buy them just because of those models they have! :D Hardest balls in the industry!

[dgrobe2112]

the red is thicker than the black?? well i guess i need to change my oil then.. i was gonna run it in the front.. i tried it in the center of the car.. and it made the car really skaty.. wanted to drift alot.. i have been having problems with the car having a bad push on power.. so i need more on power turning.. i been reading.. and i am gonna go from 3k in the front to 5k in the front.. also gonna go up a little on my shock oils too.. from 50 in front to 60.. and from 30 in rear to 40.. and see what that does for me..

[OldskoolGT]

I have never actually seen the black oil, but Kyosho refers to the red oil as "thick", so I assume its thicker.



I don't see whats so great about Acer bearings. Avid bearings are just $1 buck a piece, so you can throw them away instead of trying to salvage them. Saves a lot of hassle IMHO.

[dgrobe2112]

heck yeah for $1 a bearing.. i will never have to rebuild a bearing again.. and they spin just as free as any other bearing i have had.. at first.. they may not.. but after you run them like 1 time.. they are free as heck..

[dgrobe2112]

is anyone in here allowed to use the quick reply option down there?? i tried but it wont let me type in there...

[RCisLife]

Hello everyone!!! What ever happened to Kanaidude.. I haven't seen that guy on here in ages. I know its been months since I last posted too.. but just stopped by to see how everyone is doing.

[dgrobe2112]

he is still here.. actually the question should be.. where you been?? :) aint seen you here in a while. he and i been posting in the Kanai sections alot lately..

[welshy40]

Guys,

You thought your inferno's were good, but I can guarantee yours wont beat this. check it out, as I couldnt believe it myself.

http://www.racers-edge.com/whatsnew.html

[dgrobe2112]

funny you mention that.. but my buggy does beat that.. i got all that racers edge kit on my car.. all the 7.5 pro stuff is on my car.. :)

[welshy40]

dgrobe2112 - and??? I guess your car hasnt done a flip at 30 feet in the air and land back on its wheels. Looks arent everything - quality driving is.

[jdavid2002]

yeah it has! I saw it with my own eyes...the only thing is he wasn't trying to! LOL...just kidding...dgrobe has a HOOKED up buggy and showed up Friday and took everybody to the house! Props to Grobe!

BTW Grobe...i quick replied...it worked fine, I just think it was operator error! LOL ;)

[dgrobe2112]

oh, i agree.. i do have quality driving skills.. i just dont do flips in the air at 30 feet, well maybe on accident.. hehe.. but that was tight.

[KanaiDude]

All of us here have pretty hooked up buggies Welshy, maybe we don't jump them 30 feet in the air and do backflips but we could if we had the jump etc... It's not that hard to do a flip with proper throttle control.

[KanaiDude]

RC! so where have you been? I been right here man, giving battle reports from racing etc etc. where is the pic of that phat body of yours? How's your buggy going, i've been racing as many weekends as possible going to get real hot here soon, glad to see you made it back on the forum.

[dgrobe2112]

Thanks Kdude.. thats what i was thinkin.. he guaranteed my buggy wouldnt beat it.. and just cuz i dont do backflips.. i could if i wanted too..

[7.5man]

Kdude:

Do you have any new bodies done yet? Looking for a 7.5 Wasp.

thanks....

[KanaiDude]

Hey 7.5 man, I have some to paint, but it is probably going to be a few weeks, I have 2 others I have to get to first *cough a hyper body and a xxxnt, my track owner wants the hyper body so I guess I will do that *cough Hyper *cough sux, he will let me put some bodies at the hobby shop if I want though not a bad deal. I will let you know if I get any done soon, thanks...

[jdavid2002]

KanaiDude...I thought I read in an earlier post that you do painte bodies for 50 shipped? Did I read that right or was that a misread on my part? Thanks

[dgrobe2112]

he does paint bodies.. now weather they are 50 shipped.. i think that was an introductory price for a couple people..

[welshy40]

KanaiDude - I am unfortunately an Electric Buggy racer, Kyosho 4wd off road. I know its electric, but I did have an inferno 7.5, it just wasnt my cup of tea - not as quick as I was hoping in the accelarating side - top end was good though. It had all the mods that you could possibly buy.

It was just a pain in the neck having to clean the car all the time, so I sold it.

And I have never managed to do a 30 foot high jump, and throttle control I do have - but like in the video clip, I couldnt do that in electric - I could do more like ten to 15 feet high, and the ramp would need to be angled to do it, and the reason the height isnt that high is that just down to not wanting to damage my car. Parts are not easy to come by and I cannot make certian items for my car, like the gearboxes.

However I have got 53.7 mph out of my car on carpet, but that wasnt mid air.

dgrobe2112 - check out www.razorgrafix.com/

[dgrobe2112]

nice site.. i will have to see about gtting some name plates for the windows on my cars..

[KanaiDude]

The 50 dollars shipped was sort of a favor to a few guys on here, I may have a few to sell in a couple of weeks I will let you guys no, they may end up on ebay though because I probably would have gotten more like 50+ on there, I may be done with the favors, time to make some mula! I will let you guys see them here first in case you do want one.

[jdavid2002]

Welshy...nice site, got some awesome paint schemes and stickers...

kanaidude...that's what i thought i just thought i would ask...those bodies i saw were worth more than 50...those were sweet!

[savageP3]

hey i want an MP 7.5 kit. is this with a THS pipe, Hyper 8 Port engine a good combo? also since i will only have one buggy for racing what are the extra parts i should have? also is the Racers Edge Pro $300 kit any good?

[KanaiDude]

Savage that's a pretty good combo for the money, are you going to race this competitively? If you are bashing that is a good combo, if you are racing you may want to drop a little more money now on a better motor, ofna 8 port is powerful but the reliability on longevity factor are lacking. Most of us here have ws7's, p5's or OS motors with something like an OS pipe or Nova hard coated, I don't have a problem with THS pipe though. Dgrobe will tell ya straight up the racers edge kit is good he's got it, if you look back a few pages he has some pics of it on his buggy...

[dgrobe2112]

SavageP3, if you get the hyper 8 port motor, i reccommend getting the ofna 063 pipe.. will help that motor on the bottom end.. if you are interested in the racers edge kit.. 300 is a good price.. but i know someone who can get you a good deal on it.. Ron Atomic, with Kinetix, can get it for cheaper.. his website is www.kinetixrc.com go to his contact page, and call him. Tell him Daniel Grobe reccommended you for the racers edge pro kit. That kit is the bomb. i love it, without this kit, i would be replacing all kinds of stuff. but the only stuff i replace now.. is diff oils, shock oils. Spare parts that i have, and dont seem to use, are arms, turnbuckles, hingepins, screws.. and thats it, other that that.. the only stuff i gotta buy all the time is fuel.

Also, i may be thinkin of selling the buggy for a K3. what yall think?

[KanaiDude]

:eek: what advantages of the k3 are you looking for? just curious...

[dgrobe2112]

well.. i allready got the light chassis on my buggy.. i am thinkin that the K3 geometry may be better.. but may not.. im not sure yet.. havent decided on weather or not i want to get the K3.. what it has longer shocks.. in the rear.. and the different ackerman.. i allready got the new arms all around.. what other differences are there..

[jdavid2002]

sounds like you are tryin to talk yourself out of it Grobe! LOL :p

[dgrobe2112]

i think your right Jdav.. i will prolly stick with what i got.. cuz the new 777 will be out soon.. and i may end up with that.. haha.. who knows.. prolly not..

[jdavid2002]

yeah, you are really dialed in now, no use screwin with a good thing!

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. your right.. you da man.. jdav..

[KanaiDude]

I'm definitelty waiting but the 777 will be hard to pass up!

[savageP3]

thanks guys. i do want to race competitively but i dont have the money for a new motor/stater box right now. i want to get a rex P5 and an ofna starter box. are starter boxes hard to build? id like to get an RTR is there a big difference? the 8 port should be good enough for now

[OldskoolGT]

The differences between the K2 and K3 are so minor I really don't think there's much point in buying a K3 if you already have a 2 (unless you are like me and love the new buggy smell). The biggest change IMHO is the new front geometry, the upper arm mount has been lowered 2 mm. Just buy a K3 front shock tower and use a upper plastic "A" block from your K2 kit and a lower "B" block.

I haven't met anyone who actually uses all the droop the K3 provides.

[uDi_MP75]

keep the k2 grobe... dont loner us k2'ers out.

[jdavid2002]

thanks guys. i do want to race competitively but i dont have the money for a new motor/stater box right now. i want to get a rex P5 and an ofna starter box. are starter boxes hard to build? id like to get an RTR is there a big difference? the 8 port should be good enough for now

Savage...are you asking about a RTR starter box or getting into a RTR car? If you are asking about the RTR car, take it from me, just go ahead and invest in the pro version, I like to call it or even into the K2...dgrobe2112 can vouch when I say that I have spent well over 750 dollars getting it to competition level which is where it is today. In regards to the motor/starter combo, I have a OS RG motor that flat out gets it! after tax i paid $125.00 at my LHS. I combined that with an OFNA 063 pipe and waller power adapter and this thing is just almost to much for me to handle. Granted the P5, WS7, VO1 are crazy motors...you are gonna pay that crazy price for them too. Seriously think about going with the RG/063 pipe combo...I really don't think you will be dissapointed. With the OFNA 8port your askin for trouble...I know I had one. Just my opinion, hope it helped.... ;)

[savageP3]

no i am getting the MP 7.5 kit. big no no on the rtr. i was talking bout the starter box. i am going to get a P5 or an os vz-b and a starter box when i get the money.

[atm92484_3]

Starter boxes are pretty easy to build. Do yourself a favor and get the 1/8 scale one from Ofna with the 12v motor. The 12v will be able to turn the P5 over more reliabely compared to the dual 550 powered boxes that are most of the "rtr" ones. Even when my P5 was brand new, the 12v motor had no trouble cranking the engine

[OldskoolGT]

Hey all,

Forget what I wrote about using an upper "A" block in place for the new K3 B block. While they look the same, they are not interchangable as I have just discovered.

Also a few comments about the CNC parts from that guy in Canada. I would advise people to avoid the chassis braces. The rear brace is too thick and requires that you grind off part of the radio box (where a screw holds the box together), or grind part of the brace down. And the front brace didn't fit on the car right. I had to elongate the hole in the top plate by about 1 mm in order to mount the brace.

[uDi_MP75]

hey... mine came in the mail last week too, and while it looked like the rear brace wouldnt fit, when i mounted it it fit fine, it touches the screw on the radio box but fits fine..... (i mean it JUST fits) but weird that you say yours doesnt :s

The front brace fit fine also but ur right it seemed like 1mm too long or something, i thought it might have been cause my chassis was a bit tweaked or something, but maybe it is a tad too long. i got it to fit with everything as-is in the end anyway.

i got the towers too, and theyre pretty nice. the only complaint with them was that you gotta use a couple of washers behind the front shock mounts if you want to use all the holes in the front tower. I think he includes the shims with them (i got one of the first sets without em)

how did your braces go jeroen, if your still around here?

[KanaiDude]

I had those braces to, they seemed to fit "ok" the front one was incredibly tight as well, having to put it together and tighten all the screws down slowly probably not the best fit, I got the fioroni ultra series ones on there now pretty slick... Racing tomorrow WooHoo wrenching comences NOW! I gotta fix my rear end! i got the front unis yesterday to put in the rear, some stock composite shoes with 1.1 springs new arms etc. Also got a new TR motor and ths pipe for my GT weee lots to do... Bodies to paint oh my

[OldskoolGT]

The rear brace probably could probably be mounted without modification. It would just rub the radio box pretty good. The front brace definitely seems out of spec though.

[dgrobe2112]

Racers Edge, or fironi.. cant go wrong with those.. :) i got a new WS7II in box.. redy to break in.. not sure how i want to do it.. leave it in the box.. or what.. and wait.. or break it in.. oh well..

Also got a new CVR for my XXXNT.. sure wish some of us were closer together to race each other.. haha

[mmurray70]

Hey all,

Forget what I wrote about using an upper "A" block in place for the new K3 B block. While they look the same, they are not interchangable as I have just discovered.

Also a few comments about the CNC parts from that guy in Canada. I would advise people to avoid the chassis braces. The rear brace is too thick and requires that you grind off part of the radio box (where a screw holds the box together), or grind part of the brace down. And the front brace didn't fit on the car right. I had to elongate the hole in the top plate by about 1 mm in order to mount the brace.


Sorry to hear you had a problem with them. This is the first I've heard about a problem with the rear. I've sold hundreds of sets and nobody has ever mentioned anything about them being too wide. It may be touching but shouldnt interfere with anything.

There may have been slight problem with a batch of fronts. E-mail me at gmurray@nf.sympatico.ca and I'll send a replacement.

The kyosho parts themselves are mass produced and certain tolerances can add up making things a little harder to install. Another thing about the braces is if the chassis is bent ever so slighly (may be hard to even see it) it can cause problems with mounting holes.

[OldskoolGT]

The front chassis brace is definitely too long. I installed it on a brand new buggy with a fresh untweaked chassis. I also tried installing it on my other Kyosho and it didn't fit on there either. Side by side with a Racer's Edge chassis brace, it is obvious that it is longer.

I just want to add that my other parts from Mr. Murry have worked out fine. I highly reccomend the front and rear hinge pin holders that he makes. Its essential to put a flat spot in the hinge pin in order for the setscrew to hold it. With that modification to the hingepins, you will never have a hingepin slide out due to a lost e-clip since it will be securely held by a setscrew. Note, for a K3, you also need to grind a bit off the aluminum washers for the titanium screws which hold it in place.

[uDi_MP75]

Yeah he's a quite reasonable guy anyway, if you're unsatisfied with something just email him and he'll sort you out.

while we're on the topic of blocks, which do you use on your k2? im sure ive asked before but here i go again.

I mean the A/B blocks. I've got A's on there right now but heard the B's are better. More agressive steering with B's right? Any thoughts?

[KanaiDude]

I ran this weekend we made it through 2 qualifiers before the entire sky opened up on us, our canopies almost flew away it stormed so hard! I got my rear end hooked up now though with the new longer unis in the back, and am using the 3 degree block. I had an inexperienced pit guy "dump" gas into my car this weekend ouch... Time to strip it apart aaggaaiinn...

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. that happens.. but you gotta take it apart every weekend.. for cleaning.. or at least i do.. i dont replace fluids every weekend.. but i pull the car apart in big chunks.. front end.. rear end.. come off chassis.. leave center on the car.. and clean.. :)

[KanaiDude]

Yea I really have alot more respect now for nascar drivers as a team rather then a driver, because so much of it comes down to race prep and testing. Almost every race day there will be good and bad, but usually 5-6 still standing after the main, and they probably wrench the hardest.

Have any of you guys tried the Odonnell 99 long plug in your P5? I got the 77 for my .12 sirio today and it runs so nicely I am stoked.

[OldskoolGT]

Some of the guys I race with take the radio tray/box and engine out, spray on some degreaser, and hose the car off. It definitely gets the car clean. Probably shortens ball bearing life though.

[KanaiDude]

:eek: Hose the car off? Wow, yea probably not the best on your bearings but not a bad idea...

[dgrobe2112]

well.. with the price of bearings.. you dont need to worry about it.. www.avidrc.com has bearings at a great price.. as cheap as they are.. who cares about bearing life..

[team_luigis]

guys, i need fast help please...

ok i have a regular mp7.5.
i bought it 2 years ago already build.so i dont remember were the pieces were on the original plastic..anyways thats not the point.

at the end of the building manual,there is a 1 page setting...
#2
were they teach you he caster angle
ok on my parts inside is writen a or b
like i dunno which part is 61 or 62 and 189 or 190
me, i need 189 and 190,but i cant see the diff between the 61 62 and 189 190,
cause its only writen a or b

so anyone of u can tell me which of them is a and b

thanks everyone

[uDi_MP75]

answered on other thread, dont ask in same q in 2 threads, most 7.5 guys check all of them anyway.

dg - don't you end up rusting out the outdrives and stuff like that? guess it'd be okay as long as you used plenty of WD40 afterwards. Guess the hose down idea might be good after one of those REALLY messy days, like mud or something.

[dgrobe2112]

no.. i dont have any rusting troubles at all.. when i wash my car that way.. its usually when it is really dirty.. and my air compressor just wont work.. when i do it like that.. i use WD40.. and air as well.. the car dont sit with water on it.. i wash it.. then spray the whole car down with denatured alcohol, then dry the car with air.. and use WD40 in the spots like the outdrives.. and stuff like that

[dgrobe2112]

but my normal clean down consist of denatured alcohol, and an air compressor..

[KanaiDude]

Phew rough race weekend, I was peer pressured into running my gas10. 15 1/8 scale showed up and 4 gas 10's so they were all screaming at me to run mine, we don't care about you turnmarshalling bla bla bla. I fininished 6th of 15 in buggy and 3 of 5 in truck, was alot of fun, is kind of tuff when the competition is fierce though I would have spent more time on my buggy if I could have, but was still a good showing since I was the only guy to run two classes, we only had 3 classes total, so I got to sit down like never all day...

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. i hear ya.. i go through that every weekend.. we got 2 classes of buggies.. 1 class of gas truck.. and 1 class of monster truck.. and it always seems that they run my 2 classes together.. right after each other.. oh well.. or 1 in between.. so i can turn marshal.. lol.. tough.. but sometimes i miss a heat of gas truck to make sure my buggy works..

still had a clutch problem this weekend.. thought it was my AVID bearings.. but it wasnt.. something else.. springs or something.. but my clutch is engaged.. i will have to check into it a little closer.. got new aluminum shoes.. try those out.. with the mugen 1.1 spings...

[KanaiDude]

dgrobe you got some new alluminum shoes, what do you think is better for a P5, I was gonna rework my clutch this weekend. I have a set of alluminum shoes but I think Oldschool posted saying something bad about them with a P5, have you tried yours yet?

[dgrobe2112]

I havent tried mine yet.. they are sitting in my new WS7II that i havent even started yet.. but my buddy has aluminum shoes in his P5.. and he likes them..

[OldskoolGT]

The K2 aluminum shoes worked great with my P5. What I didn't like was the constant maintenance they require. Now I just use composite shoes and my life is so much easier. :)

[uDi_MP75]

Yeah I run ally shoes and they work great, just the maintainance factor. It's not like they die if you don't clean them up every now and then, but to keep them performing nicely its a must.

I might try some composite shoes next time, just so it takes the hassle out of taking the shoes off the flywheel and putting them back on. That is the most frustrating part for me, not the actual filing/sanding part of it.

Do they grab just as hard as the ally shoes, like if you lighten them up or whatever?

[dgrobe2112]

i dont think they grab as hard.. they punch good when you lighten them.. but the metal on metal contact.. of aluminum shoes.. is big time.. punch

[munim]

Problem: Clutch shoes not engaging soon enough. Maybe I'm used to my 2 shoes which had a smooth linear power delivery. With the 3 shoe aluminum Kanai 3 setup, I have to rev more to get it to engage, at which point, it rips up the grass for a good 4 feet.

Conditions: OS V01 engine, rainy day, 20 degrees celcius, close to 90% humidity.

Should I increase/lean the low end fuel mixture to get the revs up? I'm not too sure how everyone else runs it but how I run my buggies (on 2 shoes) is that slightly after idle the shoes make contact and the buggy starts running. With these 3 shoe ones, I have to raise the RPM considerably, my guess is by around 1000-2000 RPM.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah.. the K3 aluminum shoes.. and springs.. are for high reving motors.. like a WS7II or a 8 port mtor.. those kind that are high RPM motors.. you could get by will less spring if you want.. put some 1.0's or .95 springs on.. and it will engage earlier.. its not a big problem.. but if your running fat on the bottom.. then it will be hard to get the car to run right..

[dgrobe2112]

wrong thread

[KanaiDude]

So another age old diff question... I am running LSD/7/1 and was thinking of running the stock diff back up front at 5k. What are the advantages, the 5k gives more on-power steering going into and out of turns, and the LSD is better for off-power steering - decelerating threw the turns???

[OldskoolGT]

I think that sums it up pretty well. Most people only like TCDs on smoother high traction tracks and prefer regular diffs for bumpy loose conditions. Since the TCD will lock up the diff to a certain degree, it can make the buggy twitchy and darty on bumpy loose tracks.

[KanaiDude]

My local track can rut out pretty good sometimes, I guess the 5k would be the way to go, I've been noticing I don't get the best turn when goosing the throttle but when I slow it down a bit it turns on a dime, i'll swith to 5k this weekend and see how it goes, thanks!

Any opinions about the sway bars and how tight you should have them, when lifting up one of the tires maybe halfway is when the bars kick in is that about right?

[dgrobe2112]

Sounds about right Kdude.. the swaybars.. stiffer.. in the front will give less steering.. simply because the suspension is stiffer.. i beleive that is right.. less roll in the turn with the stiffer swaybar..

[KanaiDude]

Just a few hours till i'm off work and start packing for the NitroFest at Lance Norrick's private track WOOT. Have to get up at 3am OMG need to secure our spot by at least 7am, 225 entries 10+ factory pro's and 3 days of racing, somebody shoot me now!!

[dgrobe2112]

now.. why would you want to be shot.. haha.. i would love to get that opportunity.. good luck.. take some pics.. and keep us posted on the happenings...

[KanaiDude]

I am going to take massive amounts of pics with my new fuji s5000, I dunno what i'm worried about sleep for, I'll be to stoked to shut my eyes, mine as well wrench all night!!!

[dgrobe2112]

haha.. sounds like fun.. be cleanin.. and workin on the car liek you were a factory guy.. hahah

[KanaiDude]

Well... fun at the NitroFest I had problems with first qualifier, clutch nut backed off, replaced the cone added a washer and tightened the crap out of it. 2nd qualifier went better put in a decent run was just getting warmed up though. Then the rain came and I missed out on my last, they got monster trucks 3rd Q down before they called it, lightning was a little scary. So I was in the H-main (A-N) and was leading 6 minutes into the 10 min main when I flaimed from a lean low end ARHGHG!! In gas truck I was in the D-main (A-I) and did pretty good until the very end I broke my rear ball joint on the 2nd to last lap GRRRRR!

Was pretty cool though, Drake and Saxton were there, Drake took first in gas truck suprise, lots of local favorites did very well though, was fun besides sitting around for hours waiting for my next 5 min race!!! I'll do it again next year though just to see where I stand again. Oh and I got a new Ws72 comming my way LOL I couldn't resist after seeing them lay the power down, even having PDL break it in for me not taking any chances on this one...

[dgrobe2112]

HAHA.. welcome to the club.. big races are so much fun.. and thats what got me to buy the WS7II.. seeing the fast guys run it.. that is the bad part of the big races though.. is all the down time.. you literally have enough time to take you car apart. and rebuild it for each race.. did you get some pics.. Did you get to see the new 777 in action.. i havent seen it yet.. but i got the big itch for one.. hold on.. let me scratch.... ok im better now.. but i still want one.. hahah

Congrats on the races.. you woulda bumped up alot of mains.. i am sure.. specially with missing one heat.. and only getting one.. so.. you woulda got alot of mains in.. haha.. one time.. i had bad quals.. started in the last main.. and bumped all the way into the C main.. got like over 1 hour of actual track time.. just in the mains..

[KanaiDude]

Yea the ws72 looks like a nice mill, show me the power! I've been liking the p5 but finally realized it's limitations at the big track this weekend, you can win with a p5 but it would be tough, a few guys were running jp p5's but most were running the ws72. I did get some pics hopefully i will post a few this week sometime. I did not get to see any 777's up close this weekend, I'm not sure if anyone there was even running it, there were alot of prototypes actually a few thunder tigers and a couple of jammin buggies. So I'm gonna run the ws7 with 1.0 springs and composite shoes sound ok? What tires are you guys running I'm still sticking with my crime fighters but I am thinking of trying some panthers, i like there foams and I hear the tires hold up a little better, there only downfall seems to be not holding to the rim without glueing the crap out of them. So I also saw one of those contraptions where your air compressor nozzle has a water feed, WOW that thing is cool going to home depot to pick one up soon, it's like instant clean tires and chassis, can't beat that. And I am all for hosing down the car now lol, just use some wd-40 after and work it in with the air...

[dgrobe2112]

HAHA.. well.. tell me where i can see that air compressor attachment.. i would sure like to get one of those.. that would be great.. personally.. i tried the 1.0 shoes.. and didnt like them.. i went back to the 1.1's.. also.. panther makes some tires.. called the chameleosn.. i personally dont like them.. however they work pretty good on alot of surfaces.. but the tire to get will be the Kamoto Dragon.. depends on what you need out of the tires.. if you need more forward bite.. get the Kamoto 1's.. if you need less forwardbite.. but more side bite... get the kamotor 2's.. and you can get them premounted as well..

give me a link to this air compressor thing.

Oh yeah.. if you got a small drill bit.. i usually drill 2 or 3 holes in the composite shoe as well.. i also tried the aluminum shoes.. just way too much maintennce.. you get great snap.. but it dont last the whole race.. and you gotta take the shoes and resurface them..

[Fantom 15 gt]

Hello all,
About 2 months ago my cousin got a Kyosho 7.5 RTR buggy. He said it was a spur of the moment thing. He has had some trouble with it, glitching radio, braking parts and doesn’t know how to tune the engine (it has 5 tanks through it). He said that it lives in a box and he would never use it aging so he offered it to me for FREE! I said yes and that I would give him some money for it but he refused. It is completely stock with a couple of spare parts and all running gear, however something is broken in the clutch.

What parts are necessary to make it absolutely BULLET proof? What work would be required to it to handle the most powerful engine on the market now? Who makes HIGH quality hop-up parts? What is the difference between this model and the Kanai 3 model? Money is not an issue...

I am really excited and should get it this week. Links would be relay helpful also

What parts are compatible from the Kanai 2 and 3?
What plastic parts aren’t high quality? Is the kanai plastics made from higher quality plastic?
What type of battery pack will fit?
Where can I buy hop-up's from? They must be able to ship to Australia!

Thanks for your advice is advance!

[dgrobe2112]

all parts are compatabe from K2 and K3...
these are the neccessary items i would upgrade..
All 3 diffs.. rtr diffs are weak.. dont come with all the gears inside.. and the big gears are weak..
Shocks.. the RTR shocks are junk.. unless your a good driver.. and dont wreck..
shock towers.. www.racers-edge.com has some great shock towers also www.kingheadz.com has some nice stuff as well..
chassis braces, same as shock towers
if you upgrade the motor.. you will need a new pipe and manifold, new flywheel, clutch shoes, springs, clutchbell, bearings..
new motor plates, and motor mounts
new servos for sure.. and prolly a different radio.. if you want a good radio at a good price.. you can get a JR XR2 for 99 bux

battery pack.. you will need a hump pack www.kinetixrc.com has great stuff..and great prices..

go to www.ebay.com and search there.. for the diffs and shocks.. also there are some people who make some pretty good parts like shock towers and braces...

[KanaiDude]

Hey DG can you field this one LOL??

So this air compressor thingy I can't find it online but I just saw an article in one of the latest RC magazines talking about it as well as me seeing it at the track, I heard they have them at home depot but couldn't find it online will go to the store this weekend and let you know. I just bought a porter side stack compressor from amazon with hose for 178 shipped that is one hella of a deal for that compressor. This gadget acts like a regular air nozzle but just has a siphon feed line so you can put the hose in a bucket of cleaner and go to town!!

Can't wait to get my mill, PDL is dyno breaking it in, I'll post the sheet on here when I get it back WOOT!

[dgrobe2112]

I got my WS7II from PDL racing as well. he is a great guy to deal with.. fast shipping.. and that motor is still going strong.. got lots of pinch to it.. lots of power.. just make sure you keep spare clutch shoes and springs..

[KanaiDude]

Yea I like dealing with him also very quick to email and ship...

I hate the new thread layout just found myself reading about ofna 9.5 junk ahhhh stay away...

Hey DG you have an after market head on your motor??

[dgrobe2112]

No, i dont.. the WS7II head is as big as all the aftermarket heads.. the Odonnel head is the only head i recommend.. if your gonna get one..

[KanaiDude]

Naa that's what I was thinking, plus I want everybody to know what I'm kicking there ass with!

[dgrobe2112]

haha.. dont get a big head.. now.. haha.. remember the last race?? ok.. well thats at least what i tell myself..

[Fantom 15 gt]

Thanks..

[KanaiDude]

Hey guys, question... Does your K2 servo saver arm hit the front of the upper front block when turning left? Mine hits the upper block about 1.5mm before the knuckle arm hits the inside of the hub, when turning right it is fine the arm of the knuckle hits the hub, so when turning left I actually have started to prematurely wear the end of the ball cup that is attached to arm of the knuckle because I guess my endpoints are off, i'll fix that now but i'd rather fix it so the knuckle arm hits the hub when turning left not the servo saver arm hitting the upper block first. I'm using HCR knuckles so I guess this isn't a problem with the stock ones since the arm of the knuckle is fatter.

[dgrobe2112]

yeah, i have that problem too.. i dont know what the fix is for it.. i run the Racers edge parts.. and it hits there too..

[KanaiDude]

WOOT 2nd in the race this weekend WOOT!!! Hey DG I am using the 9886 pipe on my ws72 that is bad right? I believe that is a high end pipe, was having a hard time grunting over anything to big this weekend (may have helped my lap times!) anyway I should be looking for a 053 or 063? Do you know where I can find either one of these???

[dgrobe2112]

here is some info i found on another website..

"The 'suggested' perfomance of a given pipe is just a general guildline. It's not set in stone. Even within a give pipe there are single chamber, duel chamber and baffled or non baffled variations. You could have 4 versions of a .053 pipe and each will have different charictaistics. The biggest and most common mistake that folks make about pipes is thinking that a given pipe will change the performace curve of a given engine. Sadly they are right in the wrong direction.

Any given engine has it's own performance curves. Some engines are lowend and some are highend. Some are in between there somewhere. Generally a 3-4 port engine will be a lowend, high torque engine. An 8-11 port engine will generally be a highend low torque engine. "torque" always refering to the bottom end. Where the problems come in is most rookies believe that if they are suffering lowend performance with their engine then putting a "lowend" pipe on will fix it. Wrong. Putting a lowend pipe on a highend engine just chokes the highend range of the engines powerband. So now you have an engine that stinks all around. Many will argue with that remark stating, "I put a .*** on my engine and it really made it come alive!" Usually what they don't say is 'after I retuned the engine to run with the pipe I stuck on it'.

Proper way of matching a pipe/engine is to choose a pipe that makes the most of what the engine has to offer. Highend engine/ highend pipe. Lowend engine/lowend pipe. Match the pipe to the engine so that the engine makes the greatest power in it's natural power band. Once you've have done that then adjust the clutchs and gearing to take full advantage of the full power of the engine.
Don't try to MAKE the engine fit the clutch/gearing of the vehical. "

if you still want a low end pipe.. you could get the 63.. you can get them off ebay.. or.. a good pipe.. that alot of Sgridders... say.. is the jammin pipe.. try that one..

[dgrobe2112]

the jammin pipe.. is a low/midrange pipe.. also.. Kdude.. could be tires.. cuz when that motor hits.. it could be spinnin tires.. i found that was my problem.. i was lackin on the bottom end.. but on a dry dusty track.. i found that i needed to be easier on the throttle.. but on a high bite track.. i was killer..

[dgrobe2112]

BTW.. i run a 86 pipe as well.. i am gonna try the waller adapter also.. just gotta get some springs for it..

[KanaiDude]

So is the 63 the low end what is the 53? I was running my mill around 220 this weekend, could also be where I was lacking, I ran a practice run at 240 and it seemed to have more of the power i was looking for but wanted to be cautious for the main, I came in a 30 min main at 220. There are two different jammin pipes the low-midrange, and the high end, you seem to want to get a pipe that matches, which technically means my 9886 is just fine, is the 63 the mid pipe and you recomend that, and the 53 is low which you don't recomend? I am thinking of getting the hardcoated low-mid range jammin pipe. They have them at nitro-house for 72 bucks, theres not all that much in pipes on ebay right now... I am running crime fighters and always seem to have good traction with them. It seems like the low end is a bit finicky on the motor if it is to lean you know it and the temp jumps, you think there is a sweet spot where the low end has just the right power, or run the low a tad rich.

[dgrobe2112]

supposedly.. they say the WS7II likes to be fat on the bottom.. i havent found this to be correct.. or i may just be tuning mine wrong.. i got mine.. where it has good punch on the bottom.. if i fatten it up much more. then it really bogs on the bottom..

The 053 pipe is the midrange pipe.. the 063 is the low end pipe.. 220 is prolly too fat.. honestly.. i found that mine doesnt run that great at those temps.. 240 and this motor is a beast.. i find it holds its tune great even in long mains.. so.. dont worry bout temps.. unless you get into the 280+.. then you can start worrying.. but if you run a 5 minute heat and it come off the tradk at 240.. dont mess with it.. i found that if you are constantly worrying about the temp of the motor.. you are not worrying about your laps.. and clean lap times.. and all that.. basically.. trust your tuning.. trust your motor.. and it will do you good.. when i first got this motor.. i was so worried about running hot.. and all that.. that i basically over tuned the motor.. just was constantly turnin needles.. and i really didnt need too.. temps vary from full tank.. to low tank.. so.. if you run your motor during practice.. run it.. have a guy with yor temp gun on the track.. when you run out.. have him temp it as fast as he can.. if you run out of gas.. and your temp aint over 250.. your golden.. if its 255-260.. dont really worry bout it.. but if you getting higher than that.. you could possibly fatten it up just a hair.. but not too much..

Where did you see the high end pipe?? i havent really looked.. yes.. your 9886 is fine.. if you want.. you could put a power (waller) adapter on it.. or put a longer header on it..

[KanaiDude]

Thanks! I think I may get the low-mid jammin pipe and try it out, thanks as usual for all your help. What you said about the motor temps will give me more confidence next time at the track. I was having problems getting the low end right and spent most of my tunning trying to readjust my low and high till the were more in sinc. Luckily I had someone helping me full time while i did this or i wouldn't have even gotten the motor in the ball park before the q's and main, i think that is why i was being a little conservative, but I agree at 240 the motor was a beast, and being an rb 240-250 should not hurt it, seems like my p5 a bit 240 was about the sweet spot.

I had some luck on my side during the race. I was fine for until the 8 minute mark hit and i lost a front shock! my pit guy tried to fix it and was like your done, and im like dude put the car down on the track now before i kill you. About 10 minutes later one of the turn marshalls decided he was going to try and fix it, and after 20 secs of screaming he put the car down. I babied it over the jumps and had enough of a lead on the rest to hold them off, I should have come in 3rd or 4th but two guys broke down, but hey it's racing! Anyway there were about 25 buggies it was my best race yet, I owe about half of it to the motor and half to driving good with no front shock. The motor so rips down the straight and off jump landings though I love it!!!

[dgrobe2112]

sounds like a rough race.. haha.. yeah.. in long mains.. anything can happen.. you never know.. sometimes.. i think in those big mains or something.. i take all kinds of stuff with me to the track.. i got spare glow plug.. starter box.. tools.. spare wheel nuts.. and a small box of screws and nuts incase a shock nut comes off.. i got some extras.. haha.. i have never had problems with the shocks coming off.. actually.. i really dont ever have any problems with my car.. other than the last time.. the front left dogbone came out..

[KanaiDude]

Your positive about the 053 being midrange and the 063 being bottom? Ace has an rb 063 for 119 was thinking of getting that one and see if i like it. Thanks for all your help I doubt I would be doing so well without someone to go to (DG)!! I'm at least getting a huge beer stine mug with my name engraved in it for 2nd WOOT.

[dgrobe2112]

hahah.. i am sure that the 063 is the low end pipe.. and the 086 is the high end pipe.. as far as the 053.. i was told it was their mid range pipe.. never read it anywhere.. however.. with the release of the jammin pipe.. and it says.. its a low to mid pipe.. also.. check the stinger location on the pipes.. you will notice.. the location of your low end pipes is more toward the end.. and the high end pipe..are closer to the manifold.. so.. you can get the 063. or the jammin.. here is what i think in pipe chioces

Low end pipe.. get a 063, 9863
midrange pipe.. get a JP-1 jammin pipe
high end.. get a 086, or 9886 pipe...

[dgrobe2112]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34062&item=5912251247&rd=1

[KanaiDude]

You seemed hesitant about getting a low end pipe for it, have you read or seen where it really isn't a good idea, and the engine doesn't run as well, or it is worth a shot if my local track is fairly technical? If you look on nitro house websight they have two differnt jammin pipes, maybe I will try the low-midrange pipe thats hard coated for 72 bucks, you think that "should" have more grunt the the 86 or maybe i should just spluge on the 63 from ace at 120 bucks, I wish they would label the jammin pipes i guess there low-mid is somewhere inbetween 63-53... dunno.

[dgrobe2112]

well.. that post i put on there earlier.. is from another website.. as far as 120 bux for a pipe.. thats alot of money.. you could get both the 063, and the jammin pipe for that price.. off ebay all day.. that way you got both.. and didnt spend all that money on one and didnt like it.. you know.. im not really hesitant.. just read that your sposed to put a high end pipe on a high end motor.. and all.. and on Sgrid.. all the gusy with the WS7II say that the Jammin pipe works good...

[dgrobe2112]

ok.. direct form RB website.. says its ok to go with the 063 pipe..

To get the best performances out of your RB Concept engine we suggest you use our original RB Concept pipe and manifold combinations we have available in our Pipes & Manifolds program.

Once you have installed the pipe/manifold on your car and set it at the length indicated with your engine, you can expect the following behavior and changes in power when you do the following:


If you increase the length in between the manifold and pipe, the engine will get better low rpm power(more torque) but you will loose high rpm power(less rpm at full speed).
If you decrease the length in between the manifold and pipe, the engine will get better high rpm power(more rpm at full speed) but you will loose low rpm power(less torque).

The challenge is to find the best compromise for the engine and this also in combination with the gear-ratio you are using.
Please note that of course the carburetor setting and clutch must be at 100% to be able to get some profit of these changes.

[KanaiDude]

Cool deal thanks! so there is only one rb 63 on ebay now it ends in a few days I asked him if i could buy it now we'll see. The jamin pipes go for about 60 the rb's 70-80 on ebay. I may go for both of them I'll let you know what I think.

[dgrobe2112]

wait.. i read that on rb website.. says.. if you increase the length between the manfold an pipe.. so that means put a adapter in between.. that may work.. i will test it out and see what happens if you want.. may have to wait a week or 2 for results.. waiting on the 777 :)

[KanaiDude]

do you use special springs for you waller? I have one but don't wanna stretch my springs out to put it on... I'm gonna go with the 63 if I can find one soon enough... Happy trails with the 777 looking forward to hearing your review of it!

[dgrobe2112]

yes.. you need longer springs.. for the waller adapter.. i got some i think.. if not. i am gonna make some out of these return springs in got for my .12 motors..

[KanaiDude]

Just picked up the jammin hard coated on ebay for 70 shipped not to bad, probably couuld get it for a few bucks less but not much, the hardcoat looks slick. I may go for the RB to it ends in 3 days.

[dgrobe2112]

sweet.. i had a top 9886 on my buggy.. that same hard coated.. it matched the chassis and the racers edge.. looked nice..

[KanaiDude]

Hey DG i picked up my air compressor thingy at Lowes for 20 bucks thought I'd let you know they have it there. I get my new porter side stack compressor in a few days from amazon 182 bucks shipped awesome deal. PDL emailed me back about the pipes and said the 86 is the low end, wierd HUH? I got the jammin low/mid pipe comming they shipped it priority yesterday I was like sweet! They hobby shop I got it from said alot of there guys have pit tested it against the 53 and 63 having slightly more bottom then the 53, hence the low/mid designation.

[dgrobe2112]

sweet.. you have any pics of that compressor attachment.. so PDL said the 86 was a low end pipe?? think he must have had a bad day or something.. priority shipping.. you will have it prolly by this weekends races.. :)

[KanaiDude]

I don't have any pics it's a pretty nice assembly for 20 bucks i bet homedepot has the same thing. I'll try and take a pic this week when i clean my buggy up paint a new body etc...

[dgrobe2112]

sweet.. so.. guess what KD.. i got my 777 today.. sweet..www.rc-mushroom.com super fast shipping.. payd for it last thursday.. got it today.. from Hong Kong.. very nice.. i will be tellin in the 777 section.. so read up..

[KanaiDude]

My latest body and clean car, we got rained out this weekend, damn hurricane Charlie, thats one of my cats names I wasn't to happy with him this weekend...

[KanaiDude]

another...

[KanaiDude]

1 more

[marctroy]

I need some help with the Inferno RTR. I bought it used and spent the winter upgrading it with Fioroni and K2 parts at a huge expense but never really had a chance to run it (I know - I should have done THAT first - duh!). Finally, I just bit the bullet and bought myself a brand-new K2 with an O.S. .21 VZ-B. I gave the Inferno RTR to my nephew and it started right up, even ran well until a short time later (same run) the engine continued to respond but the buggy wouldn't move at all. I disassembled the stock clutch yesterday and everything "looks" good - but it still won't move.

Tower has all of the parts to replace it but if that's the case I'd rather upgrade to a 3 shoe clutch. I'm also thinking of getting him a new pull-start .21 "Sport" engine.
Here are my questions:
1 - Does it sound like the clutch is the problem? How can I check it to be sure? If it needs a new one I have few choices: get a complete new K2 clutch kit on ebay (but is that overkill) or buy a complete Ofna 3 shoe clutch setup (the Inferno RTR carppy clutch has roller bearings and a centrifigal clutch - I'd prefer to trash it).
Suggestions, please...

2 - The stock GX21 seems to run well but I want the kid to have as few problems with the car as possible. I like O.S. engines (easy to tune) but Ofna seems to offer good value, especially on used ones complete with flywheels and clutches. Suggestions please...

Thanks,
Marc

[dgrobe2112]

ok.. the rtr.. does it have the RTR engine in it?? if you have the VZB engine in the RTR car.. chances are.. all that power may have messed up a diff ring gear.. or possibly the spur gear.. check that out.. cuz the sports RTR has a plastic spur gear.. and also has aluminun ring gears on the diff.. thats the first thing to go on those cars.. so check your spur gear.. if thats not it.. then i would start with pullin out the diffs.. and lookin at the gear on the diff..

[dgrobe2112]

Oh.. BTW Kdude.. your body looks sweet.. and i dont mean your real body.. hahah.. i mean your kyosho body.. :)

[marctroy]

I'm having the problem with the Inferno 7.5 RTR with the GX21.
The O.S. .21 VZB is in my Kanai and the RTR has the (anemic) GX21 engine in it.

[dgrobe2112]

well.. i still think you should check your spur gear.. if thats not it.. then maybe your diffs.. depends on which one is working..i dont think its the clutch.. because.. the clutch will still grab.. and go.. but the way you describe it.. is the front or rear diff aint pullin.. or.. just thought of this.. there are little setscrews in the front and rear of the front and rear diffs.. check those.. make sure they didnt come loose.. they are where driveshaft goes from the center to the front and rear diff.. those dogbones.. they go inside a drive cup.. the drive cup is held on by a set screw.. if that came loose.. that could be the problem .. make sure you locktite those screws..

[Mika]

KanaiDude Wow! Painting looks great!

dgrobe2112 I went through your pics (nice) and I cannot quite understand why you traded your nice K2 for 777; that's an awesome looking ride (the 75) and it looks better than 777. How much better that 777 can be... are you sure it's just not marketing bs
Well, if you say so I have to believe :D

[dgrobe2112]

oh yeah.. the 7.5 was definitly nice.. but it had its flaws.. didnt have enough steering.. bad push on power.. also.. i had the car for a while.. was time for a new one anyway.. car was still good.. but i had been thinkin of getting a new K3, and everyone told me not too.. cuz of the new 777 coming out. so i waited.. as long as i could.. hahah

It is definitly not a marketing ploy.. cuz this new buggy is way ahead of the current 7.5, first of all.. you could get the standard 7.5, and need to put ball bearing steering and stuff..

The standard 777 is almost like a kanai version of the 7.5, just not the hard anodized chassis.. and hardened shock towers.. which as you can see by my previous car.. i got the good stuff anyway.. so no need for those. this new 777 has lots more stuff too it.. more steering.. lighter.. updated suspension.. and geometry.. its awsome.. but i am definitly no knockin the 7.5, its awsome too..

[RCisLife]

I need some help with the Inferno RTR. I bought it used and spent the winter upgrading it with Fioroni and K2 parts at a huge expense but never really had a chance to run it (I know - I should have done THAT first - duh!). Finally, I just bit the bullet and bought myself a brand-new K2 with an O.S. .21 VZ-B. I gave the Inferno RTR to my nephew and it started right up, even ran well until a short time later (same run) the engine continued to respond but the buggy wouldn't move at all. I disassembled the stock clutch yesterday and everything "looks" good - but it still won't move.

Tower has all of the parts to replace it but if that's the case I'd rather upgrade to a 3 shoe clutch. I'm also thinking of getting him a new pull-start .21 "Sport" engine.
Here are my questions:
1 - Does it sound like the clutch is the problem? How can I check it to be sure? If it needs a new one I have few choices: get a complete new K2 clutch kit on ebay (but is that overkill) or buy a complete Ofna 3 shoe clutch setup (the Inferno RTR carppy clutch has roller bearings and a centrifigal clutch - I'd prefer to trash it).
Suggestions, please...

2 - The stock GX21 seems to run well but I want the kid to have as few problems with the car as possible. I like O.S. engines (easy to tune) but Ofna seems to offer good value, especially on used ones complete with flywheels and clutches. Suggestions please...

Thanks,
Marc

I had the same problem with my RB WS7II. My kanai wouldn't move.. it appeared to be locked without the throttle servo being attached. I removed the engine and clutch assembly until I saw the problem, the collet (which suppose to sit tight in back of the flywheel was loose AND the clutch nut wasn't tight either. Anyhow, I tightened up those two puppies put everything back together and I was back on the track. Hope this helps.

[RCisLife]

KanaiDude! What's happening man.. I know I've said I was going to start posting more often here, but well.. ***** happens. Life's been so busy over here that I even considered selling all my (2+ years of putting my hard earned cash into this buggy) gear because I didn't have much time for it. lol. I changed my mind real quick after reading some of these posts. I would miss the heck out of her if I were to sell her.
Great painting schemes KD, is that one a most recent one? You must have dozens of bodies for your kanai. Are you ever thinking of painting again and putting some up for sale? I'll buy another one from you if you do.. as a matter of fact if your interested in painting an Associated B4 body for me, that would be cool too. I got this electric buggy not too long ago so I can race with my little brother-in-law and its been fun.
I'll post pics of my buggy along with that kick-ass body you painted for me this week.
Talk to you guys later.

[KanaiDude]

RC hey man! Nice to see you on here again... Don't sell her you will regret it just like I sold a pimped out TC3 just to buy another one cause I love sports cars! Yea that is one of my latest paint schemes I am getting better with the checkers and picking the right colors, I am hoping to start painting one like that a week and selling them I'll get back to you on that. It's kind of cool I use a body for a few races then sell them in a lot on ebay and get around 50 bucks for 3 used bodies not bad. Do you have a B4 body you wanted me to paint or maybe next time I order from tower I can check back and see if you still want one. I'm halfway through my 777 now I'll try and post some pics this weekend, I forgot how nice it is to have a new kit, i've been running my kanai for 2 years now, It's like the difference between BUTTER and ParKay!! Hey RC check the 777 thread I posted a link to my ebay auction where my kanai has my newest paint on it, have to try and paint up my 777 like that, L8R.

[Venom2U]

oops wrong thread

[dgrobe2112]

how is the build going Kdude?? pretty smooth?? LSD in the front is good..

[RCisLife]

I see you bought the new 777. Is it the stock or the special? how much did that puppy cost you? If you don't mind me asking. How's the building going?
You do a great job at painting KD even if the bodies are used, you can still make a pretty penny out of them. I'm surprised you haven't been painting and putting them on ebay more often. Its a guaranteed sell and it'll put some extra cash in your pocket.
I have the link to that Associated B4 body painting scheme I've been eye balling for sometime now. Here's the link:
http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/product_info.php/cPath/22/products_id/79
Let me know if you can try to duplicate something like this. Doesn't have to be exact, but I'm more concerned about those same color mixtures.
Take some pictures for us when your new 777 buggy is complete. Geez.. I see everyone getting those 777 buggies now at the track I've been practicing at. Kind of makes me want to go out and get one.. trying to keep up with the Jones's. lol
DGrobe: How's your 777 buggy running? Have you encountered any problems?

[dgrobe2112]

DGrobe: How's your 777 buggy running? Have you encountered any problems?

I love my 777, i have had 0 problems.. other.. than i had to mill the chassis for my airtronics servos to fit.. they were riding on the chassis.. but i milled it.. 30 mins of work.. and its done.. but no breakage.. no problems at all.. just trying to get used to the setup.. and all this extra steering.. trying to find a good diff setup.. i am gonna try my LSD diff this weekend.. with 5k in the center.. and see how that works.. i think it will work fine.. thats what alot of guys are running..

[dgrobe2112]

oh.. only prob i have regularly.. is my WS7II is going through clutch bearings like nothing.. its a good thing i get them at 1 bux a piece.. cuz.. dang.. i am driving a P5 right now.. and i like it too.. Kdude.. you like your WS7II better than the P5?? i got a brand new WS7II still sitting here in the box.. i am hesitant to break in.. cuz i think i want another P5.. hahah

[KanaiDude]

DG how about the FX21 you can get that from rcmushroom for 420 bucks not to shabby, it's pretty much a jp mod p5. I'm sticking with my mill for a while at least a few more months anyways lol. Im suprised I havent had a bearing go bad at all I know it's crazy and I do replace them for every race but I have yet to see one break. I am using the kyosho 13t bell and haven't broken one since, I know I am lucky though...

[dgrobe2112]

well.. i didnt have a problem with bearings.. till i changed my driving style to a more aggressive style.. really hard on the clutch too.. i used to be a little easier on the throttle.. and my clutch would go a while before i needed to replace.. i dont think its anything of my doing.. but.. since i changed my style.. i have them last about 1 or 2 weekends.. before i need to replace them.. that WS7 is so hard on clutches.. too.. with the new driving style.. haha

[KyoshoKev]

hey dgrobe, how do u go about milling your chasis?

also how do you hold down the fuel filter on your 7.5's is it part of the fuel gaurd? i only got the brake guard on the sports.

cheers

[dgrobe2112]

well, what i did.. was find where my car would be lightened.. used a sharpie.. marked where i wanted to cut out some.. then took it to my friend.. and he has a mill..not a CNC.. but he has his own mill.. and he started cutting it for me.. too bout 30 mins.. and had the chassis all milled down.. i will get some pics.. if you know of a place that has a mill.. alot of machine shops have them.. and they may do it for you for pretty cheap.. chassis is 3mm thick.. i cut 1.5mm out.. under the servos.. under the radio tray, under the gas tank.. under the center universals.. just a little here and there..

[dgrobe2112]

here is one on ebay.. pretty cheap.. but you get the idea..

http://i9.ebayimg.com/01/i/02/89/8e/78_1_b.JPG

here is the item # http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=49213&item=5925107684&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

[KyoshoKev]

is that on ebay (above) a genuine kanai chasis? you think that one on ebay is a good quality and strong?

also this one from dragon.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5926707778&rd=1

also with the engine sitting lower, will there be issue with the mesh with the spur gear and clutch bell??

THX :)

[KanaiDude]

KyoshoKev have you ever gotten a mod from RB mods? I saw some feedback on his webpage with the your name just curious if you liked it, if it's you??

I dunno about those chassis on ebay they look kinda cheap to me, not because of the milling I just question them for some reason, the engine doesnt sit lower, its just milled under it for lower sitting engines like novarossi's, I have a JT chassis with that much milling and it's awesome...

[KyoshoKev]

Yeah i had a picco 21 comp and now also a rb s7 europa from him.

i havent ran the s7 on the track just in my driveway so i can't tell you how that goes.

but the picco for $220 was awesome, and is as fast as much more expensive engines like p5, s7, vz.

[dgrobe2112]

Kkev.. that is not the genuine kyosho chassis.. but.. i was showing you how some of the mill work is done.. so you can see what i was talking about.. kyosho K3 chassis is prolly round the same price.. contact ben88 on ebay.. he has all that stuff.. great guy to work with

[Malph46]

Checkout my cool video ,,,mp7.5 taking nice jumps on track
,yeah Inferno power View Now On YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8VnCpwhKAw)