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dont slow down
07-04-2008, 12:18 AM
Yea since its a pretty big event I'm hoping its set up nice. I already set up my esc for a little drag brake. I can stop without any problem. Either way it should be fun.
Helgaiden
07-06-2008, 12:45 AM
i know im a little late on chiming in but try blue springs in the front with silvers in the rear, 0 degree toe in front with the R+3-0 block (3 degrees fixed toe) in the rear and -1 degree camber all around. Start there and adjust accordingly. I use a very similar setup and it performs GREAT.
serpent17
07-06-2008, 01:03 AM
hey, what's up gaiden we have the same tc3 extreme racing silver chassis you said your getting parts? what broke on your chassis? also what hard ware do you use on your chassis
dont slow down
07-06-2008, 10:38 PM
Hey guys, well Im here to report todays event. I was there from 7am to 5:30 pm, it was a long day. Overall I had a blast and actually did fairly well. The track was great, the people were nice, and I cant wait to do it again. There were six classes: Nascar oval, Nastruck oval, Touring car oval, 1/18th oval, Touring brushless road course, Touring stock road course. Everything was electric. I was put in the stock road course class even though I had a 6 turn. They figured my lack of driving experience would compensate.
So the traction on this track was pretty good. They cleaned it very well before setup and also sprayed the track with root beer soda to make it sticky. My setup was almost spot on! I ended up running my medium Take off tires 3 of the 4 races. My suspension was very nice. The only change I really made was from 0 degrees camber in the rear to -1. Other than that I couldnt have asked for a better first time setup. I dropped from a 21 tooth pinion to a 19 tooth to help in the corners. I want to thank you guys for the tips, it really gave me a great starting point.
During the heats/main, I focused more on my driving technique than trying to keep up with the leaders. I tried driving a consistant line and keeping the throttle and steering smooth. I was having a hell of a time with a glitch in the back section that would always pitch me sideways or up against the railing. I was courtious to the faster guys and let them go by when they came up behind me. There were 4 other cars in my class and each race was 5 minutes. In the qualifier I came in 4th. In the first and second heats I also came in fourth but was only 3-4 laps behind the leaders. In the main I placed third and finished 3 laps down. But overall I accomplished what I set out to do. I finished and I didnt break anything, lol. :D So anyway thanks again for the help. I cant wait to do it again next month.
serpent17
07-07-2008, 12:38 PM
you should try getting a good 19t motor to go with your setup! you've already got the cells now you need a good sport motor nothing hot and nothing to weak. try the 19t with a 23t or 24t and with stock spur and you'll be set!
so people with stock motors were passin you even when your running 6t mod? was it one track for mod and stock? what radio do you have!!!!!!?
i really think for anyone who wants to compete at tracks should invest in a top noch best on the market radio!! i had to bite the bullet and do it and I'm so happy with my car and its radio.
your welcome man anytime. also anymore questions fill free to ask and we'll try answering them if we or i could.if i didn't live far i would've hit it up! but there no tracks here in los angeles that i kno of and there's some in the valley but no transportation.
Helgaiden
07-07-2008, 05:43 PM
you should try getting a good 19t motor to go with your setup! you've already got the cells now you need a good sport motor nothing hot and nothing to weak. try the 19t with a 23t or 24t and with stock spur and you'll be set!
so people with stock motors were passin you even when your running 6t mod? was it one track for mod and stock? what radio do you have!!!!!!?
i really think for anyone who wants to compete at tracks should invest in a top noch best on the market radio!! i had to bite the bullet and do it and I'm so happy with my car and its radio.
your welcome man anytime. also anymore questions fill free to ask and we'll try answering them if we or i could.if i didn't live far i would've hit it up! but there no tracks here in los angeles that i kno of and there's some in the valley but no transportation.
No need to go all out though. Something like an Airtronics MX-3 is all you need, and if you want 2.4ghz crystal-less operation get the MX-3 FHSS. I got my 75mhz Mx-3 a few years ago for $120. Best thing i did. Its got all the important setup stuff without the bulk and funky feel of the m8 or m11 or other "high end" radios.
Anyways, serpent, i had ordered a new diff, diff cases, center one-way, front and rear toe-blocks, antenna hardware, a motor, and body posts. Nothing had broken (except stripped diff cases and a melted diff), i just needed to overhaul it. Needed to get it ready for a trophy race in which i placed third with it...
http://a474.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/105/l_ad8fc13ce28682beb021ee8784b325c1.jpg
Im on the right
As for hardware, i still mainly use the FT blue screws but all up top. On the bottom i screws from the RcBoyz Tc3 screw kit they sell.
It was stable, drove well, predictable, everything. I couldnt get on the breaks too much because of the one-way (but it wasnt a problem since i was racing stock). Only problem was i think my lipo threw off the balance because it turned right better than it turned left. Left had some push to it. Thats cool we have the same chassis too! I ran it without the sitffners for more flex on asphalt once...BAD IDEA. Took a bad hit, tweaked it. Had to untweak it and now i run it with the stiffners so it doesnt happen again lol.
Here are the actual results...
-- RCGT by HPIRacing,.. - A Main --
Pos Car Laps time name id avg.mph
1 1 16 5:19.57 Dennis Vice 34 11.27
2 2 15 5:10.54 Bill M 44 10.87
3 9 15 5:13.09 CHRIS ARELLANO* 4 10.78
4 8 15 5:19.22 ERIC ARELLANO 16 10.57
5 3 14 5:11.66 DENNIS HALL 12 10.11
6 0 14 5:14.01 Charlie B 42 10.03
7 7 13 5:05.99 Chuck Ellis 20 9.56
8 6 12 5:05.21 Trevor Ellis 18 8.85
i cant post the lap by lap because it comes out all garbled...so heres the link.
My tc3 was in the RCGT class
http://socal.rcracing.com/RaceResultsDisplay.cfm?File=Final_Results_07-02-2008a.txt&ID=2823
my other entry was the intermediate stock, 3rd place with my cyclone in that one.
dont slow down
07-07-2008, 06:07 PM
I am running a JR XS3 radio which is crystal-less but I still had a little problem. Couldnt really figure it out. I would like a different motor, but Im really wondering about brushless. I need to find out if there is a brushless setup that has different profiles so I could start in the stock class and later just change the settings and race in the brushless class.
No need to go all out though.
Too late, lol. I started getting really into the racing setup awhile ago but never got to race. I bought a lathe, dyno, top of the line chargers, radio, esc, all the go fast goodies but never really put them to use.
On the straight sections my car was overall faster but in the technical sections they would scoot right past me. They were all more experienced than me so I just let them by.
serpent17
07-07-2008, 07:34 PM
well the mx-3 is a perfect radio! it has everything someone need to race and compete in big races due to no glitching with 2.4ghz. i run a serpent, tg10, and a dtx street force. so it does everything i want/need for nitro and the airtronics m8 does it for me. and its pretty light weight compare to the m11. and both fit like a glove.
i had problems with my diff cases before but i use super glue in the threads so they work perfect and i do have many used extras also.
as for diffs i don't get it! I've never burned out a diff or it never has melted on me.
i am having a problem with my front diff but nothing bad .the ring gear has a little chip on one of the teeth and i have no clue how! i run brushless and no dirt gets inside and there's no other damage. wouldn't you think all the teeth will will strip? its making a ticking sound and i think its getting worst. i have 5 to 10 more extras but mine are white colour is this better or worst? i also have a couple gray'ish type imma change it as soon as i can.
has anyone had the same problem before? i think I'm going to rebuild my WHOLE car I've cleaned and oiled all the bearings but i think its do for more attention. gaiden what's your gearing and your motor turn?
if the poeple from your track gets on this forum you shouldn't tell me then Lol
Helgaiden
07-08-2008, 02:53 AM
i run a co27 stock motor with gearing ranging from 26-28 teeth on the pinion and 72 spur, depending on tracksize. I say try the dark ring gears. I messed up my diff because i dont have the steel diffs and ran a 13.5. The amount of power it pushed out made my diffs slip and i suffered the consequences. I mangled a tooth on my rear ring-gear actually. The diff would click really loud so i opened it up and i found an e-clip i must have left when i installed the center one-way lol. It worked fine though, after i took out the e-clip of course.
serpent17
07-08-2008, 03:13 AM
lmao!!! i never knew it was possible to leave something in the diff cases!! Lol that's first very funny! I'm glad it worked out fine after you took it out!
i checked my ring gear more and its chipes. cut the bent took on the gear and it seems flush like the rest but when i put it in the car and tighten everything it still ticks! ill replace the gear then =[
as for the plastic diffs I HATE THOSE. very light weight! but I'm a brushless dude and i have to have strainth! i do have the plastic ones just in case i run stock someday!
how's that center one way?
i have the one way diff but its trash on the streets i don't have enough grip.=[
SyberSerulean
07-08-2008, 06:00 AM
center one-way works pretty nice. Gives me a little more steering but i wouldnt suggest it outside of stock racing.
Dont overtighten your diff halves. If they are too tight they can bind your bearings or the diff. Tighten them down then back the screw out until theres like a 1mm of clearence between the screw head and the diff halve which it is screwed into. That should give enough space to keep from binding anything.
serpent17
07-08-2008, 07:07 PM
1mm? that's enough for the cases to split and change ride height! maybe tighten all the way down then back it out half turn or no?
i fixed my problem it was the pinion and ring gear that are in the cases. also the front cup that connects to the center shaft. my front in is smooooth. now i have to work on the rear diff and case i think i need some super clue for the threads.
Helgaiden
07-09-2008, 05:22 PM
alright well not 1mm, but just barely enough where the screw head doesnt touch the case. Like so fine a piece of paper couldnt fit through.
serpent17
07-09-2008, 06:52 PM
does anyone ever think about selling there outdated tc3 to buy a updated tc5 or tamiya ta05r? I've been cruzin the tc3 for a while already but when i jump on websites about new touring cars i kinda think "can my tc3 still win races?" am i the only one with these thoughts?
i mean i love my tc3's but I'm thinking about getting something newer. waist of money?
SyberSerulean
07-09-2008, 07:38 PM
Well..its still a good car but depending on what class you race in, it starts to lose ground. For rookie and intermediate touring classes i say its fine. It can still probably do okay in sportsman classes given a good driver. However, sportsman is when much higher caliber drivers start to drive their car harder and faster and figure things out better on it and utilize it better so thats when the tc3 loses ground to newer cars. I went from the tc3 as my main car to a HB Cyclone Hara edition (and sidelined the tc3 as my secondary) and never looked back. It was such an amazing difference. The car tracked straigher under power and overall more stable. Ive since retuned the suspension on m tc3 and got it to be nearly as stable and predictable but its still not up to par with my cyclone. Im consistently about 1 second faster with my cyclone than my tc3 so that says something. If you have the extra money and think you would benefit from a newer car then go for it. Dont get a ta05r though, if you're gonna do it go all the way for something like a tc5, Cycline, JRXS-R, TRF416, Kyosho Tf-5 Stallion, Serpent S400, TOP Scythe, etc.
serpent17
07-09-2008, 08:52 PM
that explains a lot thanx!!! well you just basicly said the tc3 is outdated faster harder mod racing. well i think I'm going to update soon. I've been looking at the tc5 and i love ae because they always have parts on towerhobbies and hardly discontinue ae parts. you could but a new tc3 from tower in parts!!
I've always been a serpent nitro guy but parts for there older 10th scale cars are impossible to find. so I'm thinking maybe the s400 wouldn't be a good car to race and buy parts for in the future. my friend from north california bought a cyclone hara edition and he said its the best rc car he's ever had/race/seen! but I'm NOTTT an hpi guy.(hpi/hb)
so I'm leaning more on the tc5 but not sure if its over kill for my driving skill i wana go to this one track a little up north from me but when if i wana use it on the street! brand new car with carbon fiber one a road way is harsh! i have a tc3 with a carbon fiber chassis but its nothing new.
I'm confused =[
serpent17
07-10-2008, 12:58 AM
my bad my friend has the cyclone moore edition.
SyberSerulean
07-10-2008, 04:22 AM
Well keep both cars. Use the tc3 to mess around with, race whatever other car you get. I also forgot to mention Xray (which are notorious for their durability...in a good way). The tc3 has more issues with mod racing due to torque steer issues that belt drives dont get.
serpent17
07-10-2008, 06:50 PM
yes super true I'm always having to counter stear alot do it the torq stear. I've had a hpi pro2 WAYYY back in the day and i never had that problem. well I'm guessing a newer better chassis would be more usefull and a change.
BUT when you named all those tc chassis that are offered i was having doubts! all my older tamiya cars are all sold out and discontinued parts everything!!!!! i want a chassis that could have parts now and yrs down the line. i don't know if i should worry about this. but i don't wana end up with 6 more electric tc's that i can't get parts for!
SyberSerulean
07-11-2008, 11:27 PM
the Cyclone and Tc5 have good parts support. Xray is pretty good too but their parts are a little pricier. Dont discriminate on brand, that "ill never drive an HPI/HB" just makes you sound noobish. I have a cyclone, and its a great car and ive yet to break it.
serpent17
07-12-2008, 01:02 AM
yeah I've been looking around the net and cyclone and tc5's do have good part support. Lol its not "noobish" i just prefer anything but hpi. I've had 5 hpi's before and they discontinue them way to fast. oh and i said "im not an hpi guy".
xxxfactor1987
07-14-2008, 06:09 PM
hello i got a problem. i have a tc3 car and i tried to install a 20t stock motor but it won't fit in the motor mount? the motor bushing part is a tad bigger than the mount hole:confused::confused:
serpent17
07-14-2008, 07:05 PM
that motor will not fit the motor cam.
I've always wanted to run mabuchi silver can in the car (27t) and it wouldn't fit. the front bushing it larger then the cam.
i Guess its ment for bearing type motors only.
I've never tryed just thought about it. it could MAYBE possible to dremal it out so the diamiter is bigger.
I'm not responsible for anything ruin lol
hello i got a problem. i have a tc3 car and i tried to install a 20t stock motor but it won't fit in the motor mount? the motor bushing part is a tad bigger than the mount hole:confused::confused:
xxxfactor1987
07-14-2008, 09:04 PM
thanks for the reply. i did notice that all the closed endbell motors have bigger front bushings compared to bearing-supported ones:mad:
serpent17
07-15-2008, 01:34 AM
hey, its cool! there's thousands of people who smacked them selfes silly because of this problem! :wave: :)
Helgaiden
07-16-2008, 04:59 PM
yeah I've been looking around the net and cyclone and tc5's do have good part support. Lol its not "noobish" i just prefer anything but hpi. I've had 5 hpi's before and they discontinue them way to fast. oh and i said "im not an hpi guy".
Its not the same company anymore. There was a restructuring, thats why it got split into Hot Bodies and HPI. The cyclone has been around since 2006 and only now has there been some sort of "major upgrade" to the car...which is completely optional (the Cyclone WCE is different than the Cyclone TC kit if you look closely). Chassis plate, bulkheads, shock towers (i think), and suspension arms. Also a better rear diff (can use a bigger screw now). Thats about it. Not even a "gotta have" upgrade. Evern since the hot bodies thing, HPI has been better about discontinuing things. Your prejudgments are now invalid in which case i say try a cyclone. As ive mentioned (i have two names incase you havnt noticed, syberserulean is my other), mine has yet to have any major breaks and has since helped me to move from intermediate stock to Sportsman stock. My brother has a Tc5 and ive seen that perform quite well in his hands as well.
back on topic to the tc3. Shaft drive i think is still viable for stock racing. Compare lap times (note: RCGT had 4-5 more cars on the field than Intermediate so some of my slower laptimes are due to traffic or crowded corners). Also note: the RCGT heat is 1minute longer than Int Stock thus the reason why there are more laps there.
Intermediate Stock winning time:
Laps
21 4:07.19 CHRIS ARELLANO* avg MPH-> 19.11
RCGT 8th place time:
25 5:09.92 CHRIS ARELLANO avg MPH-> 18.15
(Cyclone) Int stock:___ (Tc3) RCGT:
1 2.4* ____________ ___ 5.0*
2 12.1 _______________ 14.6
3 12.2 _______________ 12.6
4 11.8 _______________ 12.8
5 12.1 _______________ 12.1
6 12.1 _______________ 12.0
7 11.8 _______________ 12.4
8 11.9 _______________ 12.9
9 13.0 _______________ 12.6
10 14.0 _______________ 12.0
11 12.5 _______________ 11.7
12 12.4 _______________ 16.3
13 12.2 _______________ 11.9
14 11.5 _______________ 12.0
15 12.5 _______________ 13.6
16 12.1 _______________ 11.6
17 11.6 _______________ 11.9
18 12.1 _______________ 11.9
19 12.5 _______________ 12.3
20 11.8 _______________ 12.0
21 11.5 _______________ 15.5
22 _________________ 12.3
23 _________________ 12.4
24 __ _______________ 12.1
25 __ _______________ 12.1
26 -
27 -
A few screw-ups aside, lap for lap it isnt too far off. What do you guys think?
serpent17
07-16-2008, 07:27 PM
it seems the cyclones are running a little faster but the tc3 is still holding there grounds.
your brother has a tc5? NICE!! I'm going to get one soon.
what has been the lowest turn motor you've raced? :wave:
:driving:
Helgaiden
07-16-2008, 07:59 PM
lowest turn motor ive raced...
uh 10.5 brushless. Equivalent to a mild modified or strong 19turn. I never liked racing mod, at least not yet. I dont consider myself good enough for that.
serpent17
07-16-2008, 08:11 PM
well gaiden know one is good for anything untill they try it!
you finished 3rd in stock class for god sakes!. i couldn't make that number. but then again i haven't really practiced.
do they have mod races at your track? when you get more interest in mod, you should try man never know you could catch on faster then you thought!
you live in riverside? why must cool hobbyist stay so far! i always drop r/c for other stuff because if there's no one to race it gets wack!:( do you or someone agree?
what type stearing you have? rack? ntc3?
SyberSerulean
07-17-2008, 03:03 AM
lol. Rack steering on my tc3. Not a huge problem for me as others seem to make it. I have it riding on bearings too. Another reason i dont race mod...
hardly nobody ever races it out here lol. The results i showed you...3 mod guys actually ran. Stock is where its at, and i figure if i can come to dominate stock THEN i'll move onto mod. Thats how the class system was designed.
3rd in stock? finished 1st in intermediate stock...3rd on a trophy race a few weeks before. My class was intermixed with sportsman as well as intermediate and the two drivers who finished above me were both sportsman drivers (and there was one or two that were behind me as well haha).
If you wanna race, i suggest hitting up maybe OC Circuit's La Mirada and Speedtech races. La Mirada is every second sunday of the month and that should be relatively close to you. Speedtech is in San Gabriel, every 1st sunday of the month. A little bit more of a drive but it'll be worth it. La mirada is a 30 min drive for me, prolly would be the same for you unless you're out in east LA or something.
socal.rcracing.com
serpent17
07-17-2008, 03:43 AM
imma aussie who plays with g-i joes in my underwear. lmao jk i live in hollywood cali and yes I've heard of them races. but I'm too lazy to go =[ and i don't drive =[[ well if your in la i say you hit the celly up and lets start a stock race at parking lot =]
GAIDEN you have compitition!! aahahaha nah i could smoke both of you guys.... just messin!!!!!!
i suck at racing.
what's the turn of stock class? 19t? 23? 27? I'm not jokingg
SyberSerulean
07-17-2008, 03:49 AM
stock is 27turn brushed or 17.5 brushless. Pro stock for our races (at least) is 13.5.
19t is also a very popular class and thats 19t brushed or 10.5 brushless (things will be changing for next year thoguh, to conform with ROAR a little better).
and btw incase you havnt noticed
Gaiden = Syber :)
so why cant you drive? dont be too lazy to go, its plenty fun!
serpent17
07-17-2008, 04:05 AM
Lol thanks for making feel like a FOOL! Lol jkjk!
nah but oh yeah? well i have a pretty STRONG 19t lightspeed motor just dyin to put it too use in a race!
i have no legs man i lost them in nam =[ Lol nah i don't own a car I'm going to perchase a motorcycle=]
can't wait till i get that tc5 tho. that's what i really wana race. ...
SyberSerulean
07-17-2008, 04:06 AM
A motorcycle...good mileage i figure. Time to get a big backpack to carry ur stuff in as you come to our races!
serpent17
07-17-2008, 04:12 AM
m8 radio
ae tc3
4 packs
one charger
spare parts bag
all in one bag should be interesting =]
what else would i need? Lol
SyberSerulean
07-17-2008, 04:14 AM
that should be good haha. Mount a crate on the back of your bike and throw ur stuff in there, seal it up and ur good to go.
serpent17
07-17-2008, 04:27 AM
so you stay in riverside and go to races in the oc? i didn't get that part... were you talkin about the tracks near me?
have you heard of svm speedway? I'm interested in goin there
SyberSerulean
07-17-2008, 04:28 AM
svm? no.
i dont necassarily race in the OC even tho its OC circuit. La Mirada is part of LA, Corona is part Riverside county, and San Gabriel is also part of LA i think. :P
serpent17
07-17-2008, 04:38 AM
san gabriel! ill check that out further with the net and check the info.
its an onroad track there?
i do know some hood rats around there so ill peep that one out(=P)
yeah its sun valley or simi valley not sure but i heard its a REALLY huge onroad track there? idk i always have to make sure its a cool place b4 i bother going. I've checked out crystal park in compten and it seems cool. but I'm not down to fight for my life from getting jacked for 600$+ rc gear. ya digg? lmao
SyberSerulean
07-17-2008, 02:51 PM
oh sun valley. Yeah thats a little too far from me. Speedtech in San Gabriel is a parking lot track, a little smaller than average.
serpent17
07-17-2008, 03:35 PM
oh yeah? sounds like my type of track!
do you know a number? or street address? do you go there?
I've try googlin it and it showed some guy on rc-tech goes there. i go on rc tech do you?
but yeah i wana peep it out
SyberSerulean
07-19-2008, 05:10 AM
yes im Syber Serulean on RCtech.
www.speedtechrc.com
701 S. San Gabriel Blvd, Suite B, San Gabriel, CA 91776
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4641720#post4641720 (speedtech thread)
there you go
bad6as
10-19-2008, 03:31 PM
hey guys its been a while but i got a few questons, dont know if they can be answered.
the track i go to is 100' X 40'
i have a team scream co 27 using a nimh 3300 mah battery and a lrp ipc pro sport digital esc. i have it on the stock rtr tires its a 100t spur and a 30t pinion
the motor specs that scream sent me say this
constant volts 7.0
RPM TORQ WATT EF AMPS
19275 2.0 43 43 14.3
25974 4.0 77 60 16.1
23145 6.0 103 66 22.2
20548 8.1 123 66 26.3
18199 10.0 136 62 31.0
that sound good? any things i should change?
the back stretch is off the corner so i mabye have a total of 130' of wot and its a twisty infield. should i re gear
serpent17
10-19-2008, 03:58 PM
Damn i never knew a 100t spur will fit! Well This seem to be some tall gears. But since its superstock motor then is seem ok.
If i were you ill go back down a couple teeth on the pinion ALSO change those tires and rims. Go for a softer compound and dish type rims. And clean your tires after every run.
Ill also look for a better pack. Its not jumping the gun and wasting money to do so.
(If you invest in full custom aluminum parts and carbon graphit then its a waste)
but for anyone to invest in good cells, and charger, and rims/tires, pinions/spurs then it should be a good thing to look at.
If your crazy new to the car and the track then some a-arms wouldn't be a bad thing neither. I've broke A LOT of arms on thios car.
But once i was ready, i got the new tc5r and its great :)
bad6as
10-19-2008, 05:26 PM
its a 64p 100/30 * 2.5 its a 8.33 to 1 gear ratio
i thought i read that you can have the same gaer ratio but the spur and pinion where differant.
lets say 64p a 25/100 thats 10.0 but so is 26/104
and in 48 p 24/72 and 25/75 are both 7.5
would one be better then the other even thoe they are the same ratio. would one have better accel or top end
Helgaiden
10-19-2008, 06:08 PM
Dont worry about the pitch of the gears. If your track is outdoor and its indeed 100x40 or 130' as you mention, with a co27 (which is brushed stock, not superstock) id say ger around 6.5-6.7 FDR. Id aim for 6.6 to start with and watch your temps. Over 160 degrees on that motor and you may want to keep an eye on brush wear. Over 180 degrees and your likely to be killing brushes and maybe even fryin the motor pretty soon.
bad6as
10-19-2008, 09:17 PM
fdr is mine at 8.33?
64 pitch
100t spur
30t pinion
2.5 gear ratio
its a indoot track 100x40 i was saying i get about 130' of wot from coming out of the last corner, till i let off for the next corner
Helgaiden
10-20-2008, 05:10 PM
well best bet is to ask what FDR the guys at your track usually run. Then set your gearing accordingly and adjust from there.
bad6as
10-21-2008, 07:53 PM
can any one tell me more about the motor i have
i have a team scream co 27 using a nimh 3300 mah battery and a lrp ipc pro sport digital esc. the motor specs that scream sent me say this
constant volts 7.0
RPM TORQ WATT EF AMPS
19275 2.0 43 43 14.3
25974 4.0 77 60 16.1
23145 6.0 103 66 22.2
20548 8.1 123 66 26.3
18199 10.0 136 62 31.0
Helgaiden
10-22-2008, 03:30 AM
i cant really interpret that, its not the usual spec sheet i see on Co27s.
but looking at it,your motor produces the most RPMs at 16 amps and tapers down after that. 23,000rpms is very good for a co27! Id say its a good motor, just cut the comm and throw some reedy 767s or F-Brushes on there and you're good.
bad6as
10-23-2008, 05:19 PM
yea i did notice that the springs are differant colors + side looks like a purple or red and the - side is green.
Helgaiden
10-23-2008, 08:57 PM
thats fine too. Normal. A popular combo though is two reds, but that works too.
bad6as
10-23-2008, 09:34 PM
how often should springs be changed? also if i rember right the brushes liiked like they had grooves in them when they where new. not so sure any more
Helgaiden
10-24-2008, 02:55 PM
yeah brushes when new have serrations. You can run 767s like 12 times, after that the power drop is much more noticable. Same with the F-brushes (from my experiences). The springs...ive never changed mine. Just run em how they are and if you get a new set of springs (maybe 2 reds) then try them on and see how you like it.
bad6as
10-24-2008, 08:05 PM
12 times as in 12 batterys?
bad6as
10-24-2008, 09:05 PM
also the car was bought as a rtr kit a few years back. should i rebuild the diffs?
dont slow down
10-25-2008, 12:39 AM
Hey guys, been awhile since I've been in this thread and was catching up.
bad6as, your diffs may not need rebuilding but here is how to check. You should hold your car off the ground or bench and rotate one tire in your hand. The tire on the other side should rotate in the opposite direction and it should rotate smoothly. If it feels gritty or rotates the same direction as the tire you turn then you may need a rebuild.
I have been racing my TC3 the past few months and I'm getting better. I finally got a setup dialed in for the track however I'm still having glitching problems. I think I found out what was causing it. On the Trinity D6 motors there is a small hook that secures the capacitor board and connects it to the can. I lost one of them so basically I was running without capasitors. So next race hopfully I won't have that problem anymore and I can actually be competitive.
bad6as
11-04-2008, 01:51 PM
well i broke the front lower arm on my tc3, but my lhs said they stoped making the plastic and graphite arms. do tc4 ones fit or tc5? help!!!
bad6as
11-04-2008, 09:33 PM
got it, called ae they updated the part numbers
ver. 2
plastic is part number 3884
carbon is part number 3885
bad6as
11-12-2008, 08:19 PM
another queston, how do you figure out what gaer ratio to run, or roll out.
a local guy said i should have a 28 or 29 roll out. i was around a 24 or 25
higer roll out means more top end. lower means more torque.
dont slow down
11-13-2008, 06:49 PM
Figuring rollout is somewhat complicated. I still don't know how to do it but this is how one guy explained it.
For those who don't know how to calculate ROLLOUT...
Using a 2.20 Tire Size
3.29 ROLLOUT would be 88/42 (2.09 Ratio)
3.69 ROLLOUT would be 88/47 (1.87 Ratio)
4.08 ROLLOUT would be 88/52 (1.69 Ratio)
4.30 ROLLOUT would be 88/55 (1.60 Ratio)
4.47 ROLLOUT would be 88/57 (1.54 Ratio)
ROLLOUT Calculation formula
((pinion/spur)*tire diam)* Pi (3.1416)
47/88 (0.53409090909090909090909090909091) * 2.20(Tire Diam) = 1.175 * 3.1416(Pi) = 3.69138 (rollout)
NOTE: The way I try to find a rollout is knowing
A) Track Length - we'll use 280'
B) Tire Size -we'll use 2.20 inches diameter
C) Desired Lap Time - we'll use 5.7 seconds
D) Loaded Motor RPM (17.5 = approx 60% of 2200 RPM Per Volt, 21.5 = approx 60% of 1800 RPM per volt.) LIPO = approx 7.4 - 7.6 volts LOADED
So I use
(1800 x 7.4) x .6 = approx 8,000 rpm (loaded) for 21.5
(2200 x 7.4) x .6 = approx 9,800 rpm (loaded) for 17.5
Track - 280 ft. (for this purpose)
Tire Size - 2.20" (convert to feet) (2.20 x pi)/12 2.20*3.1416 = 6.91152" (tire circumference) / 12 (inches in a foot) = 0.57596 (This is how many ft. the tire rolls in one full turn)
On a 280 ft track, your tire will spin (not factoring in wheel slip) 280/0.57596= 486.15 Tire Rotations per lap.
Divide that by the desired lap time (5.7 seconds) = 85.29 (this is Tire Rotations Per Second) multiply by 60 (seconds in a minute) 5117.37 Tire RPM.
Divide the motor RPM x the TIRE RPM for a ratio
8,000 x 5117.37 = 1.563
Divide your desired SPUR GEAR by the ratio to find a pinion
88 / 1.563 = 56.3 tooth pinion
Reverse it to find the rollout to log in your notes.
(56.3/88)* 2.2 * 3.1416 = ROLLOUT (4.421)
..and that's the MATH lesson for the day...and if you're not confused...you deserve a brownie... LOL
DavidAvid
10-27-2009, 01:52 PM
how much do TC3s go for? so I can sell mine
Helgaiden
11-06-2009, 08:00 PM
i just got my Tc3 back from a friend who borrowed it and plan on running RCGT with it again. Gonna be hitting up medium to high traction indoor and outdoor tracks and was looking at Barry Baker's 02 ROAR paved onroad nats setup. Has anyone tried that setup?
GT Freak
02-06-2010, 06:06 PM
there still popular, so id say around $200
FoxRob
10-10-2010, 08:46 AM
Good to see the TC3 has left a long lasting mark in the RC world. I have 2 of them and have raced them for about 3 years I bought them back in 99/00 when they first came out both are fully loaded Team Edition with threaded shock bodies. I used to run one in stock the other in mod. But life got in the way of racing and they have been sitting on the shelf. Now I'm at a point where I can start racing again and I'm looking forward to running them again.
onenut78
09-21-2011, 05:00 PM
hey guys, i just got a TC3 in trade. it has a novak rooster esc, trinity copper head motor, futaba radio and receiver, and futaba servo. other than that i think it's all stock. what's the best upgrades for these cars and the weak points? thanks
da_ticklah
11-23-2011, 09:39 AM
if you've the RTR be careful going brushless the composite dogbones cant take the power, I've snapped the two rear ones where they meet the axles
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