Bombarded by motor choices...

[trouble]

I'm wanting a new, hotter motor for my ST but am totally baffled by my choices. I have the stock 20T that came in my Evader and want to move to something with considerably more punch and much more top end. I was thinking something in the 12-15T Range but want to make sure I beef up acceleration as much as I can. Someone educate me, please, on how TURNS make a motor faster and how WINDS make a motor hotter.

I'm only a basher, but have about 5 frends and relatives that I run with pretty competitively on weekends and the list sometimes grows to as many as 11 people (biggest group yet). I really want a sweeter motor, but also dopn't want to dick with truing and timing and all that. I am willing to polish/clean the comm (no lathe), change simple brushes (don't want to screw with spring weights yet) and do other basic maintenance to the motor. I just don't want a motor that if I take it apart to clean it it will never run the same again.

I'm looking at the P2K, P2K2, Green Machine, Monster whatevers - pretty much the selection from tower hobbies. I don't want to spend more than $125 on a motor and ESC.

Please, how about a quick lesson in Motor Know-How for all of us who want to buy motors, but don't want to look like complete n00bs in the process. Thanks in advance.

-trouble (David)

[slodsm]

A p2k and green machine and monster stock are all 27 turn stock motors with 24 degrees of timing, but they will be much faster than what you are running now so you will be impressed with them, if you go with any mod motor with like 15 or less turns, you will need to cut the comm often and you already said you didn't want to do that.

[losiguy1090]

if ur just bashing, 14 turns is ok. that way u get the better run time and it should be fast enuff if you want to race. speedgems pros r awsome

[Racer9]

You can go crazy fast with a P2K2 Pro, and not change your gearing or ESC.. I am still racing my Duratrax ESC with my new Factory Team T3 and it is great. I raced the Evaders allot, check it out.
http://members.cox.net/sdracing/page5.html

You can use a 14 turn mod motor if you like with your Duratrax ESC but the book recommends staying with a 20 turn single for that ESC. Make sure if you do this you let everything cool between runs. I have run an 11 turn double with that ESC but it will thermal ( stop working ) at about the 5-6 minute mark. Also with all mods, you have to turn the comm often and they eat brushes for breakfast. Stay stock and get a good motor, you will dig the speed and ease of care. If you get a Green Machine or a Monster you have to change your pinion gear, go down 3 teeth. Check my website, I talk about racing the Evaders there. It is a great entry level to intermediate racer.


Racer 9

[gubby]

the less turns a motor has, the faster it will be.
the higher the number of winds, the faster it will be.
the lower the number of winds, the more punch it will have.

a double is a good compromise for winds(correct me if i'm wrong)
hope that helps

[JeepsDaddy]

save yourself a TON of cash in less than one years time... and never have to work on it... and have the exact same nuclear mod speed after 100 runs as the first run.....

save up and buy the Novak SS brushless system... it runs roughly 230 bucks... but it will save you sooooooooo much time, trouble, and big Money in the long run...

also... the Evader trannies have a lot of drag... the BL will handle a tad of extra drag without going up in smoke or needing to be turned every other pack...

if you get a 15 turn brushed mod, you can expect to cut the comm and replace the brushes every dozen packs or LESS...

i know you don't want to spend more than 120 bucks... but if you can wait a bit longer and save up 230 bucks, it will really be worth it....

peace out.... :)

[JeepsDaddy]

hey racer9... after looking at your evader info... i have a couple tips for you.....

you had a problem with the screws coming loose from the tranny to the motor plate... easy fix.... Loctite... :) you should always Loctite any bolt that secures to metal...

also... you said you also had a magnet come loose in a P-2-K-2.... if you'll notice, there will be two little dents on the outside of the can on that P-2-K-2... those two little dents are caused by the two screws that come up though the frame and secure the bottem of the motor guard... when you land on the rear hard, all the jolt is transferred though those two bolts directly to the motor, knocking the lower magnet loose... the solution is to simply dremel those two bolts flush with the frame plastic...

you probably didn't knock a magnet loose on your GM3 because you used a smaller pinion, and when you used a smaller pinion, the motor ended up with a little gap between itself and those two bolts in the frame...

also... the Evader BX can run, and win in expert local classes... check the Evader BX thread here on RCCA for more complete info on exactly how the lap times stack up to the B4...

peace out... :)

[highroller]

Stick with a stock motor 27 turns unless you have the money to invest in more pinions and spurs gears.
How do guys select modified motor (read).
Modified motors 6-15 turn (a the turns made widely today) produce the same Watts = HP and is the true indicator of which motor is faster. a 12 turn double could produce more watts than a 8 turn double in some cases. Lower turn/winds(less wire mass) produce higher rpm, less torque and are less efficient than a motor with more turns that produce less rpm, more torque and higher efficiency. Surface conditions(traction), battery capacity play the biggest part in selecting which motor to use for a specific track. Low turn motor develop their power on the low to middle power range, while more turns produce the power in the middle to upper range. So instead of using a 7 turn single (uses one single strand of wire wrapped 7 times on each armature stack), a 7 tripe or 8 double is used. The 7 turn single develops too much low end throttle punch, that is causes the tires to break loose or runtime suffers a great deal so using a motor with more wire (more turn or winds) smooth the on throttle power making motor and driving more manageable.
Get an extra set of brushes for your motor trinity 4380 or Reedy 730, 732 for standup motors, trinity 4490, 4500 or Reedy 760, 766 for laydown motors. Think of purchasing a variety of pinions in 14-27 tooth range and spur 81-85 (get stripped) to aid in gearing any motor you may use in the future.

For any non racing conditions I highly recommend you stay with mod motors in the 14-16 double range (good power, speed, runtime, less maintenance) or the 19turn spec class motors - which are geared very close to a typical stock motor but are slightly faster for close the same runtime as stock motor.

[trouble]

I ended up ordering the Trinity Speed Gem 2 Onyx 14T Double Motor. I hope this will be OK for bashing and casual racing.

Racer9, as far as the stripped servos goes, I had the exact same problem. I went through 2 servos and decided I needed to do something. I replaced the heavy ass thick spring in the stock servo saver with a lighter spring that I had laying around the house that was of approx diameter. I have had worse wrecks than what destroyed my first 2 servos, but I have yet to break anything. And the lighter spring does not make me have "false saves" by my servo saver under hard conering, either. Hope this helps you. :D

[highroller]

If you are stripping gears in the servo it's possible you need a higher torque or ball bearing servo. I found over the years that the standard servo such as the Futaba 148 work fine in play but when exposed to racing situations they sometimes don't have the power to turn the wheels quickly, and can get stripped hitting things even when using a servo saver. They tend to strip in trucks and situations when extreme loads are put on them. They will be more expensive 50 -98.00 but after buying several sets of replacement gears or servo the overal cost equals out. It doesn't have to be the same servo as the radio system just switch plugs. Some guys like Futaba radios but use other servos either they are cheaper or work better or cheaper but work the same.

[JeepsDaddy]

i don't think highroller ment to say high torque or ball bearing servo.... i think he ment to say metal gear servo...

peace out... :)

oh and... SG2?? i smell melted endbell already.... LOL...

[trouble]

Melted endbell? Oohhh, don't tell me I ordered a piece of ****. What did you mean by that? Is there something I need to watch out for or avoid doing/using? Thanks.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

i got a speedgems pro 9t on the way. i dont think ill have problems cause im gonna go wot 100% and no body so plenty of air. Uh ill let u kno if shiz happens :)

[JeepsDaddy]

why do i say melted endbell??

from my personal experience...

every speed gem 2 (SG2) i've owned, i've melted the endbell... i guess i've owned 3 or 4 of them, in the 9-12 turn'ish range..

it was rumored they fixed that problem on the "Pro".... so i bought a pro 9 turn... and after about 4 packs or so, it melted the endbell as well... LOL...

the Evader truck is a bit harder on motors than a regular truck... why?? because the entire tranny is filled with "goo".... so it doesn't spin very freely... if you are gonna melt an endbell, it will be more likely on an Evader than a T3 or XXXT... (and i melted mine on a B3 and T3)...

yours may not melt... i hope it doesnt... but, make sure you are geared properly... and keep an eye on your motor temps.. remember the 3 second rule....

peace out.... :)

[trouble]

If I notice the motor getting too hot I'll just do what my neighbor did when his motor over-heated; it seems to be a great tip too:

He took spare lexan and affixed it to his body in the rear in the shape of a 'scoop' to catch air. He then took 3/4"" corrugated tube and ran the tube directly in front of the hottest part of the motor (judging by the 'OUCH! That part it hot' method). It worked! His motor tempature was greatly reduced, (judging by the aforementioned method). I really don't give a darn about aerodynamics, so this won't really bother me to do, either.

Thanks again everyone for your insight!

-trouble

[R3VoLuTiOn]

why dont u do wut i do... dont put the body on.. no risks plenty of air. if u wanted to put a nice body on anyway it get all ****ed up from the 9t.

[EvaderST Expert]

Trouble, The Green Machine is a 27 turn single wound engine. i am currently running that motor in a carpet tournament on weekends. It is a great motor, you get increased acceleration. Try the green machine motor with 88 touth spur gear and 23 touth pinon gear, i am sure you will like it.

EvaderST Expert