Good lathe, bad lathe?

[Vmax911]

Hey guys, I'm kicking around the idea of getting a motor lathe. Is there any brands I should stay away from? Favorites? Any input is appreciated.

[FSU427P]

The HUDY pro-lathe is the best you can buy IMO.

[End Overend]

For an inexpensive lathe, check out the Integy Mod Fashion lathes. They may not be quite as accurate as a Hudy but the get the job done.

The Carbide V-block lathe goes for $89.00 and the ball bearing version for 79.00. No motor or battery supplied, but does have a carbide bit and pully included.

So far so good after having it for a short period of time. I can't complain about anything except the lack of a back stop to keep me from cutting too far, which just means I need to pay attention when I cut which is a good thing :D

[adam lancia]

check out the cobra lathe as well. i've got one and love it

adam

[Sparx]

I have this one.
http://www.hudy.net/products/lathes/images/v_101000.jpg
Hudy Advanced lathe

Was the cheapest i could buy in sweden. i'm also very happy with it.
o. buy a Diamond bit while your buying a lathe. I've had mine for 2 seasons now and it is like new. my original bit weared out in less than 1 season..

[Vmax911]

Thanks for the responses guys. Is there any lathe I should stay away from? Also, any suggestions on calipers? I was looking at some digital ones at a hardware store, and they were almost $100!

[Cotharyus]

I've been looking at lathes as well - so sort of interesting read, because I was pointed at the integy lathe myself. As for calipers, you can get a good set of dial calipers for about 20 bucks. Here's what I use:

http://www.midwayusa.com/rewriteaproduct/119623

[Cotharyus]

One other thing - what is this comm-cutting fluid people are paying 12 bucks a Z for - is there a good substitute for it? Anyone?

[Lapster]

Hey cotharyus... I was wondering the same thing.

[Railman]

You can use WD40, kerosine/diesel fuel, mineral spirits. It's just not necesary for anything fancy or expensive. Stay away from anything with silicone or teflon in it though. Basically, just a thin oil will work.
Joe

[Grizzbob]

True, & to be honest, I've found that I get all the lubrication I need from using the ink of a permanent marker. Plus, using that will also give you a visual guide when you're cutting(when all the black is gone from the comm, it should be done)....:cool:

[highroller]

The only lathe I ever heard of guys having problems with where the early Trinity lathes, guides would stick and cutter depth didn't stay (would losen up in middle of cutting). The best lathe, solid and cheap was the Twister (one of the first lathes available). For cost and quality the Cobra, Eagle (integy) and Hudy (most expensive) with the Fantom over priced 349.00 + and no real better quality cuts than the cheaper lathes. I have had years of use from both the Cobro Stock and Modified lathes (mostly the mod is used today). I purchased the diamond bitwhen I purchased the lathes and only recently bought a replacement diamond bit just in case the one I have wears out.

Another tool that came in handy when cutting comm is a Caliper (digital) and comm tool to measure diameter of comm. Never cut or use a comm that's close to .270 diameter, the lamenations get too thin - they can come apart ruining a good bit or shorting out with motor running.

[highroller]

after cutting comm I run an Exacto blade in between each comm segment to remove any shavings, use a ball point pen to round over the edges of each comm segment and spray with motor cleaner. Before disassembling a mod motor mark one endbell screw and corresponding mark on can - too help in putting motor back in right orientation. For serious racing other tools that are useful is a motor timing guage - helps find the correct degree of timing without guess work.

[Vmax911]

Excellent info!

Another question, I notice most lathes do not come with a motor. Is there I certain type of motor needed, or can I use an old stock motor?

[End Overend]

I use an old stock motor and a 4 cell pack that I made out of a 6 cell that had two bad cells.

Integy also makes a Lathe motor (55 turn I belive) that will work well with a 6 cell pack or will run straight off of a 12v power supply.

Integy also sells a lathe that comes with motor and battery for 139.99. I guess it would be RTT (ready to turn :p )

[highroller]

Older stocks motors work better, they had less timing, 4cell and 24 degree stock all work or you can use an old modified motor can/endbell and the armature from an old stocker you no longer use. Shim the armature and install then turn timing down to 0 or 2 degrees, gives good a better cutting speed when using 4cells.
Those 30-55 turn slave motors are good when all you have is a 6cell pack or power supply that only put out 12-14volts.

If you want to make up your own slave motor, remove the wire from an old armature, buy motor wire (insulated) from Radio Shack and wind your own armature to suit your needs, go with more turns of with if voltage output is higher helps to tune down the rotational speed.

[Cotharyus]

I just hooked up on one of the integy X-MOD lathes (ready to turn, as earlier stated) and I'll let everyone know how it does when it gets in.

[slodsm]

I use and X mod Super Lathe from integy with a diamond bit. Power it at 4 volts from my LRP pulsar charger and it works great, I use an old traxxas stinger 20 turn motor with it to turn it, I started at 3.5 volts but the cut is nicer with 4, its not a bad deal at all.

[Grizzbob]

Another way to do it(if you have the parts around) is to take the armature from a stock motor & put it in a mod can, then set the timing to 0 degrees & run it with 5 volts(which I get from an old computer power supply), very steady power & the motor seems to work at just the right speed that way....:cool:

[highroller]

What you end up using is always a personal preference, most of my charger could charge 4cells unless I used the diode which alway got left home so I tried a voltage regulating switch before settling on the mod can, 35 turn armature and 4cells from old made up cells. I even tried adding a connector to break a 6cell in to 3 cells worked fine with regular stock motors but speed too slow with a made up slave motor. I had been using a standard slide caliper(because of inaccuracy I stopped using comm when measure was below .272-.271.5) I allow for .5 or so more, bought a digital one - prices were 85.00 to 130.00 everywhere else went to a race - had them for $54.00 (had to buy a battery for it 1.99) but it was best price and bargain ever.

[3xs]

I turn my motors at 3 volts with a cobra power feed,5 volts seems awful fast? I'm running a stock arm in a mod can at 0 degrees.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by 3xs
I turn my motors at 3 volts with a cobra power feed,5 volts seems awful fast? I'm running a stock arm in a mod can at 0 degrees.

Run it at 3-5 degrees. When the motor runs, the actual timing changes, so its different from the static timing. Something to do with the magnetic field. So when you run at 0 degrees, youre actualy running around 3-5* retarded.

[Deviant]

Hi guys, I just bought a Twister lathe from a racer who's hanging up his losi buggy...

It didn't come with a manual (though, I know the basics of how to use it)... Just wondered if anyone had any links, if twister have a website/still exist. Or even a link to the manual or something...

I need to make anew 4 cell battery pack for it, as the one that came with it is dead :rolleyes:

[MachWon]

Try this.. got it from another msg bd.

http://www.teamrcv.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=10

May not help ya, it is geared toward basic use. Sorry don't have any for a manual..

[micros_rock]

What bit do you guys recommend? Is a diamond bit worth it? Also, how often do you need a new bit?

[Maverick Racer]

Learn how to use it with a carbide bit. Then once you have some time on your hands get a diamond bit. They give a much nicer cut and if you dont make any mistakes they will last allmost forever. I have a good 4 years on my bit and the last two racing mod, where the motor gets rebuilt every run or two. Its allot of use. But learn on the carbide and go from there.