Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v4.0

[Speedy Gonzales]

Hey Guy's,

What is the difference between White and Blue smoke??:confused:

Is it out side temperature and humidity?

My New TR Turbo doe's not make any smoke at Idle but If I hit the trotle a lot of white smoke comes out. :confused:

Now on my Street Force (Velocity .12) it trow blue smoke all the time.

I used the same 20% gas on both cars.

:confused:

[Gassedup]

Good topic. I get a lot of white smoke. Never saw blue smoke from my NTC3.

[R3VoLuTiOn]

guys, what exactly is the "fix" for the ntc3. i know its in here somewhere but theres 4 threads and like 20+ pages in this thread...

[Walt]

Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
guys, what exactly is the "fix" for the ntc3. i know its in here somewhere but theres 4 threads and like 20+ pages in this thread...

It's a set of long 4-40 counter sunk screws and special mating nuts that allow the very top shock tower to be secured straight through all the way to the bottom of the chassis.

The 'stock' design has the lower diff housing attached to the chassis, then the upper housing is attached to the lower housing, then the shock tower is attached to the upper housing. Bolting all the way from the top to the bottom with one long screw is a lot stronger (especially since AE insists on using 4-40 machine screws as self taping screws into plastic... they don't hold well, and your shock tower will eventually come loose).

[frank13]

so i got tired of hearing the guys at the track tell me the car i use isnt the same the guys at associated use i decided to write them , this is what i got back as a reply

hey guys,
i am probably the most dedicated ntc3 owner and racer there is. i find
myself at the track,however, defending my choice of cars constantly. i hear
that the ntc3 that barry baker and other team drivers use is no where near
what i own, in regards to chasis layout and basically that the ntc3 you can
buy isnt the same that team drivers actually use. i dont say that i haev
the "same car" i say ther car is tweaked in ways my car isnt. the newest
rumor from the 'trinity sponsored" drivers is that baker used a non shaft
car at one of his latest big races. and that the car windows were tinted
dark so no one could see that. i haev been told by "people in the business"
that you guys are dropping the shaft and going belt. is any of this true ,
as i defend ther product i buy and race , and would like to know. i
currently own 4 different ntc3's and have had none of the 'supposed"
problems with it and have done decent with the car, even though my driving
dissapoints. i commend you with a fine product. and with some well done
practice(if i can ever afford to race 12th scale) with 12th scale i may be
able to kick some "trinity sponsored drivers"
feel free to contact me via phone at ***********m-f eastern time to talk
about the car (phila,pa)
thanks for taking the time!
with the highest regards,
"mr ntc3" frank schinchirimini


Frank,
Hey Frank, how are you? It's always funny for us here at Associated when we
hear lies like this. Please consider the source it's coming from. There is
nothing special about his car. In fact it's real close to an out of the box
kit except for a couple personal things he does. In other words there is
nothing on his car that you cannot get or do yourself. The other guys like
to lie for the simple fact that they can't beat him on the track.

Please include a copy of this email with any replies.

Regards,
Customer Support, Team Associated

[nitrojunk]

I e-mailed the guy someone said to in one tof the posts and he never got back to me.. Is there another place to get it?

[Speedy Gonzales]

You can get it on e bay.:)

[nitrojunk]

Cool Thanks..

Anyone here Race IN EDISON NJ? I e-mailed them and havent got a response on how to sign up for next year..


Also whats a killer engine to run? Im looking at the Novarossi NS12 S5, is this mill good? What else is there?

[SebastianG]

Originally posted by nitrojunk
Cool Thanks..

Anyone here Race IN EDISON NJ? I e-mailed them and havent got a response on how to sign up for next year..


Also whats a killer engine to run? Im looking at the Novarossi NS12 S5, is this mill good? What else is there?


Hey, where is the track in Edison. I live in South River, right next to East Brunswick. Ill be purchasing NTC3 soon.

[Krasi_5000]

hi,
i already posted this under the nitro forum but i would like replies from some people who really own the ntc3.

i found 3 engines i want
1) Sirio .12 Standard Racing engine
2) Team Orion Wasp .12 ROAR
3) OS .12 TR

i have picked these 3 cause they are in my price range and seem excellent. what i want to know is will they just drop into my ntc3? will there be any mouting, crank, clutch, flywheel problems with any of these?

and which clutch nut do i need the LXBMD5 or LXBMD6???

also is there any good or bad things i should know about any of thse engines? and mostly how is the mounting that i askked above?

also would i need any special things like collets?bushings?spacers?

im asking because i want to keep my current engine the way it is and make theother one with its own independant one. i dont want to srtip my current one to make the second one.

[KronicRacer]

here are pics of what the fix look like installed

[KronicRacer]

rear shot of it

[fastharry]

Originally posted by nitrojunk
Cool Thanks..

Anyone here Race IN EDISON NJ? I e-mailed them and havent got a response on how to sign up for next year..


Also whats a killer engine to run? Im looking at the Novarossi NS12 S5, is this mill good? What else is there?




I do......I managed to make it to 3 races this year(cause of all the rain delays and teh HPI world finals)...I plan to make all six next year....(I'm in first in sebring..).

http://www.edisonmodelr-ccarclub.com/


the ns5,with tall gearing would be fine......But if you live in that area...consider going to Jackson NJ....and get the Nova s3 ROAR legal engine instead.......

I actually ran the std OS TR in my tc3....but could have used a shade more power..

[nitrojunk]

Hey fast harry,

Who can i e-mail to get set-up for next year? Also what engine do you recommend for the track in edison?

[fastharry]

Originally posted by nitrojunk
Hey fast harry,

Who can i e-mail to get set-up for next year? Also what engine do you recommend for the track in edison?

you don't need to email anyone....just watch that link I posted...

Ddin't I answer the engine question?..;)

[nitrojunk]

Ohh sorry,
I thought you had to like sign up ahead of time pr something.. this will be my first time racing..

[nitrojunk]

Whats the diff. betwean the novarossi ns12 S3 and S5 and how do they compare to the sirio .12 and the RB V12 ?

[nitrojunk]

Also do they allow outlaw engines in edison?

And turbo engines?

[CHUCKMANDO]

Originally posted by nitrojunk
Also do they allow outlaw engines in edison?

And turbo engines?

I only race in the 1st race this year, and came in third in the Sebring class. I ran a just Roar legal, bearly broken in Smeltz RB X-12. Didn't push the engine expecially in the 1/2hr A main. The track is hugh. Big track for 1/8 scales. There is no restrictions on engines there,(but you must run a touring body which makes no sense, esp since some 235 mms were allowed to run with lolas), so good 5 port turbos do have the advantage. Next year I will see what engines are available and maybe even the playing field a little;) .

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by nitrojunk
Whats the diff. betwean the novarossi ns12 S3 and S5 and how do they compare to the sirio .12 and the RB V12 ?

S3 is 3 port, S5 is 5 port.....S3 has non-turbo and turbo, S5 only has turob.....NS12 is good enough, not cheap, but definitely good.

I think if you get the S5 Turbo, it will be faster then Sirio .12 and RB V12....however, those are non-turbo engine, if you get their out-law engine, I think they are very close.

[nickko]

http://www.teammagic.com.tw/images/product-20031021104117.jpg

http://www.teammagic.com.tw/images/product-20031021103659.jpg

[Terry]

What type of crank does this car require? I am considering getting one and want to put in an O.S. 12 TR and need to know which type of crank it uses. Short shaft, pilot shaft?
Thanks in advance for the info.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by Terry
What type of crank does this car require? I am considering getting one and want to put in an O.S. 12 TR and need to know which type of crank it uses. Short shaft, pilot shaft?
Thanks in advance for the info.

it can use both. all the hardware is included for the kit. the rtr is another story. all you need is the right kit (rear exhaust kit or side exhaust kit). :cool:

[Pro3/nmt105]

I getting some foam tires for my ntc3 and I was wondering if anyone could give me some suggestions. I currently running on a black top surface that is very smooth and pretty clean (not running on a prepared track right now) it is older black top though so it is a little rougher than new asphalt (not bumpier, just grayer in color and a little bit granier). Im thinking of getting Jaco nitro shoes 26mm 40 shore fronts and 30mm 40 shore rears (do I need the ones with a 2 deg offset?). I know people usually run rubbers on unprepared surfaces, but I tried a set of foams that were meant for electric on it and they hooked up great. I can also get foams from HK much cheaper than I can get wheels, rubber tires, and inserts, so they seem like the way to go.

[fastharry]

you don't need the 2 degree offset..

try the 40's..they work well..fronyt and back..you can always go the 35's if needed in back..

[pilothyer]

Does the offset mean that the wheel is offset more to the outside of the car? (Wider Stance)

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by fastharry
you don't need the 2 degree offset..

try the 40's..they work well..fronyt and back..you can always go the 35's if needed in back..
Thanks

[pilothyer]

I know the 0 degree offset fits fine on the NTC3.............but I am just wondering if the 2 degree offset makes for a wider stance.....are the wheels offset to the outside?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Yes, they are offset to the outside and will give you a wider stance but will make your car illegal for racing because they will make your car wider than 200mm.

[tricky6]

Has anyone ever ran at the Tri-State R/C Auto Racers Track in Hamilton (Cincinnati) Ohio at Joyce Park.

[pep88]

Im planning on switching the pinion gears on my NTC3 to 21T and 27T to get a little more RMP/faster acceleration on our small tracks. I'm wondering if this means I'll need to change my spur gears. (?)

I also have an HPI car, and they have a chart that says what clutch bells are compatable with what gears. Anybody know of something like that for the NTC3? (cant find one on their site) Or do all the pinion gears work with all the spur gears?

:confused:

Thanks!

[pilothyer]

pep88.....You'll need to change your small spur (50) to a 48 to use the 21/27 pinions.......hole shot and top speed :D

BRIEF CHART
20/24 with 52/48, 21/25 with 52/48, 22/26 with52/48, 23/27 wwith 52/48, 20/26 with 54/48, 21/27 with 54/48, 20/24 with 54/50, 21/25 with 54/50, 22/26 with 54/50 (in original kit)
23/27 with 54/50.............
There are others but this should get you set for most tracks.

[Walt]

Originally posted by pep88
Im planning on switching the pinion gears on my NTC3 to 21T and 27T to get a little more RMP/faster acceleration on our small tracks. I'm wondering if this means I'll need to change my spur gears. (?)

I also have an HPI car, and they have a chart that says what clutch bells are compatable with what gears. Anybody know of something like that for the NTC3? (cant find one on their site) Or do all the pinion gears work with all the spur gears?

:confused:

Thanks!

Page 31 of the instruction manual, available on AE's site: http://www.rc10.com/pdf/manuals/ntc3_manc.pdf

I think pilothyer covered all the recommened combinations already though, but just in case you'd like to look at any other AE recommended set up information, it's all there.

BTW, with the new HPI car (the r40) you can use any combination of pinions and spurs and never have to change the position of the engine (mesh). I assume that you are talking about the older style HPI 2-speed though with it's gear chart.

[tricky6]

How about running 21/27 with 53/47.

[pep88]

Originally posted by pilothyer
pep88.....You'll need to change your small spur (50) to a 48 to use the 21/27 pinions.......hole shot and top speed :D

BRIEF CHART
20/24 with 52/48, 21/25 with 52/48, 22/26 with52/48, 23/27 wwith 52/48, 20/26 with 54/48, 21/27 with 54/48, 20/24 with 54/50, 21/25 with 54/50, 22/26 with 54/50 (in original kit)
23/27 with 54/50.............
There are others but this should get you set for most tracks.

SWEET! thanks all!

:D

[Gassedup]

My pull start is starting to skip. I read in a new magazine that it is probably the one way bearing in the pull start. I'm having problems find this part like on towers web site. Has anyone bought this part or is it time for a starter box? Thanks,

[Saboteur]

The bearing inside the p/s is slipping due to oil build inside. Simply take of the p/s, take off the bearing, and clean off the shaft its sits on as well as the inner part of the bearing itself. That should fix it up.

[pep88]

Originally posted by Walt
Page 31 of the instruction manual, available on AE's site: http://www.rc10.com/pdf/manuals/ntc3_manc.pdf

I think pilothyer covered all the recommened combinations already though, but just in case you'd like to look at any other AE recommended set up information, it's all there.

BTW, with the new HPI car (the r40) you can use any combination of pinions and spurs and never have to change the position of the engine (mesh). I assume that you are talking about the older style HPI 2-speed though with it's gear chart.

yeah I have Super Rs4 with a 2 speed in it. Thats wild about the r40....keep hearing good things about it...must...resist...belt drive ..bad....agh

[RcFanatic01]

Hi all, as you can see my carb is messed up. It moves freely for some reason. when i accelerate or brake it wont respond correctly all the time because the carb would come out so no gas or less gas goes through what is wrong if you need more details just ask please answer im trying to get this car running to its perfection thank you

[pilothyer]

RaceFanatic.......looks to me like your throttle stop adjustment screw has come out of the carb body allowing your barrel to come out and of course causing problems...........you need to get another throttle stop screw and spring that tensions it if it had one..........look at your carb exploded diagrams......you'll see.

[pilothyer]

RaceFanatic.........After a closer look at the picture, it looks as if the screw and spring hasn't come out yet but must have backed out enough to let the barrel loose.....just push the barrel back in and turn the screw in until it engages the groove in the barrel and holds it in, then you can adjust it for proper idle speed by closing the throttle all the way and then turn the screw clockwise until the barrel rotates open just a little.......:)

[pep88]

I wondering what you guys use for tires and wheels. I'm thinking about going with the proline hard 26mm dish, and Sorex 32R's.

What do you guys like?

[pep88]

Originally posted by pep88
I wondering what you guys use for tires and wheels. I'm thinking about going with the proline hard 26mm dish, and Sorex 32R's.

What do you guys like?

hmmm well, guess Sorex doesnt make a 26mm tire....Anybody know a good 26mm? Im lookin for extra grip, our track is pretty slick

[RcFanatic01]

Yes you were right i dont know how i missed that but thx anwayz i had to open throtlte and bottom out the screw ty later all

[skillfully good]

here's my set-up:

front
anti-sway bar (wire type)
spring yellow
oil 40wt
droop 5
camber 2deg
toe .5deg (out)
caster 12deg
ride height 5
tires rubber (40)

rear
spring red
oil 40wt
droop 5
camber 3deg
toe 2deg (in)
ride height 5
tires rubber (40)

i run in asphalt small technical track and my problem is i lack steering when entering tight corners. need your help.

[Sharkey]

to start off, take the swaybar out of the front. that should help, and if you want more steering, put a swaybar in the back of the car.

[skillfully good]

Originally posted by Sharkey
to start off, take the swaybar out of the front. that should help, and if you want more steering, put a swaybar in the back of the car.
a friend just told me today the same thing, i'll take it out and try it this weekend. thanks sharkey

[Sharkey]

another couple thigs you can try:

-use less camber. i usualy run 1.5 degrees in front, 1 degree in back
-try using toe-in on the front. i run 1 degree toe in
-change the castor. i cant get my car to turn well unless i have 9 degrees or less, usualy i run 6. (im going to mod the bulkhead so i can run 3 degrees)


try the swaybar first, but those are some other things to play with.

[Temjin006]

Originally posted by nickko
http://www.teammagic.com.tw/images/product-20031021104117.jpg

http://www.teammagic.com.tw/images/product-20031021103659.jpg

Anyone know where to get these.

ANyone here ever heard of Carlsen tuning. I see their ads in magazine and the mod MR12s. Are they good?

[skillfully good]

Originally posted by Sharkey
another couple thigs you can try:

-use less camber. i usualy run 1.5 degrees in front, 1 degree in back
-try using toe-in on the front. i run 1 degree toe in
-change the castor. i cant get my car to turn well unless i have 9 degrees or less, usualy i run 6. (im going to mod the bulkhead so i can run 3 degrees)


try the swaybar first, but those are some other things to play with.
noted with thanks.:)

[Speedy Gonzales]

Doe's Titanium Pro chassis any good???:confused:

Is on Tower for $130 but is a good performance buy??
And on Ebay there is one 4mm for $40 witch one is better??:confused:

Please advise.

[Krasi_5000]

hi,
i have a ntc3 and wanna know some things about the speed.

how fast does a ntc3 with stock engine and a 2-speed go?(everything else being stock inc. the 2-speed gears)

how fast with a ntc3 go with a os .12 tr and 2-speed go? (same brackets as above)

and last how fast will it go with os .12 tr and the lowest possible gearing for a 2speed?

i right now got a 2-speed in it and stock engine and would like to know how fast it goes and for xmas im getting the os and wanna know how fast it will go then with lowest ratio.

also what parts will help me go faster and handle better?

[modular_mustang]

I'm not sure if anyone has ever brought this up, but here is my $.02

After dealing with endless amounts of belt drive kits before the NTC3, track particles were a pain. I started covering the bottom of the chassis with Contact paper (or bookcover material).
The cheaper the brand the better, it will be even stickier. This will allow you to cover all the holes in the chassis and save the face of your chassis and screw sets, while being even more aerodynamic. For those who worry about the sticky residue after pealing it off for repair, goo-gone will take it off (while degreasing your chassis:p )

Anywho.... I agree with the superiority of the stock chassis for the most part, less it's cooling capability and weight.

[Hooked Up]

Those folks in the HPI R40 forum seem to think they're gonna have something to say against our NTC3s next year with that car. A lot of "welp, selling my NTC3 now that I bought an R40" going on. I'm stickin' to my NTC3 and looking forward to making some R40 peeps wish they had kept they're NTC3s. :D

[modular_mustang]

Originally posted by Hooked Up
I'm stickin' to my NTC3 and looking forward to making some R40 peeps wish they had kept they're NTC3s. :D

You and me both...

I'll give the R40 props... I bought one and had it on the track 4 days later. I must say it is a very "fluid" car. It will enter and exit corners with the best of them. I seem to run more consistent lap times with belt drive cars, but with the R40 even more so. The only downside to this is my NTC3 down right spanked my fastest lap times with the R40, with the occasional bobble comming out of the turn too hard. I may not be as consistant with the NTC3, but I can't see ditching the NTC3 anytime soon. I'm not saying I won't run the R40, but for now I'm sticking with the sure thing... Plus I haven't got the R40 tweaked quite right just yet. I'm sure people will be quite satisfied switching to the R40, but any tracks with any lenth of straight-away might still favor the NTC3. Don't get me wrong, I love my shaft cars, but I'm belt drive at heart.
Just my thoughts.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Hooked Up
Those folks in the HPI R40 forum seem to think they're gonna have something to say against our NTC3s next year with that car. A lot of "welp, selling my NTC3 now that I bought an R40" going on. I'm stickin' to my NTC3 and looking forward to making some R40 peeps wish they had kept they're NTC3s. :D


if you think thats bad,you should see the interest in the Serpent 710 from guys who have tc3 nitro's AND HPI r40's...(uhh..that would be me;) )

[Hooked Up]

Originally posted by fastharry
if you think thats bad,you should see the interest in the Serpent 710 from guys who have tc3 nitro's AND HPI r40's...(uhh..that would be me;) )

LOL. :D It sounds like the R40 is a good car, but not good enough to make people win who couldn't win with a NTC3. :p I bet they'll spend a lot more $$ trying to figure out how to win with it. HPI will nickle and dime them all to death and then maybe they're R40 will be better than a stock NTC3. Who knows, I could be wrong and might get wooped by some R40s next season but if I do I know it will be by R40s that people spent a lot of $$ on upgrades and expensive parts to make it lighter while my NTC3 is bone stock except the upper deck and front bumper. ;)

Are you going to get a 710 as well fastharry? For me it's NTC3 and Super Nitro next season.

[Hooked Up]

...it looks like the 710 has a few innovative features. It will be interesting to see how those pan out. It looks like another great 1/10 nitro car. The beauty of it all is that there are a number of really good cars to choose from. Can't wait to see what Associated has up it's sleeve for their next offering.

[modular_mustang]

Originally posted by fastharry
if you think thats bad,you should see the interest in the Serpent 710 from guys who have tc3 nitro's AND HPI r40's...(uhh..that would be me;) )

Serpent makes some great cars, but there isn't anyone in my area that carries parts or supports them at all.
It's pretty much an HPI, Assoc.,Mugen, Losi, OFNA, GS, or Traxxas suported area. There are a few places near my parents (Columbus) that carry Serpent and various others, but that would require a lengthy drive.

[xxh0lywarsxx]

Hey guys ive been running a micro rs4 up until now and im ready to step up to 1/10 for stock racing at my local track. I was wondering if the team is good or is it really neccasery to spend the extra hundred for the factory team. also besides a;; the neccaesities like radio and electronics ar there any other items i might as well order when im purchasing the car or is that all i need to run it for a while. also what is the best stock motor for the car. any help would be apreciated thanks

[POKeY]

Yeah...

The Serpent "bit" me also. My 710 is pre-ordered, so now I'm just waiting for the company to start shipping them out.

I'm not taking anything away from my NTC3 though. My plan is to run the NTC3 on the two short tracks and run the Serpent on the two larger sweeping tracks in my area. We'll have to see if I stick to the plan, lol.

Later-

jeremy

[modular_mustang]

Not to get off topic too much, but where is a reputable place online to purchase K Factory parts for the NTC3? I've looked around and to the dealer links from Trinity's website, but it just listed K Factory hop-ups for the MTX-3. I've also been pondering between the 3racing and Kfactory radio trays and braces. Any thoughts or suggestions would be helpful. Weight is important, but stiffness and quality are even more important.

THANX

[Temjin006]

What is a good gear ratio for a Novarossi RS12 S5. The track that I am running on has a long straightaway and also a lot of small turns. I need something with low end for exiting the turns and high end for the straightaway.

[Hooked Up]

Originally posted by Temjin006
What is a good gear ratio for a Novarossi RS12 S5. The track that I am running on has a long straightaway and also a lot of small turns. I need something with low end for exiting the turns and high end for the straightaway.

You could run 21/27. Big jump for a big straight away. A good rule of thumb is to hit max rpm 2/3 of the way down the straight away.

[Nsxshogun]

Can some one answer a few questions for me.

How many horses does the stock ae engine have?
Which upgrades should I get to be competitive?
And can I make the RTR just as good as a team kit?

[Nsxshogun]

also which bumper should I go for?

[modular_mustang]

Originally posted by Nsxshogun
Can some one answer a few questions for me.

How many horses does the stock ae engine have?
Which upgrades should I get to be competitive?
And can I make the RTR just as good as a team kit?

1. Not sure, but "horses" would be a bit far-fetched.
2. Depends a lot on your driving style and budget. Need more info to really get into tuning.
3. Yes, but why not just start with the team kit if your going to compete. It would probably be beneficial considering the money it would take to upgrade, including a decent engine and radio (and servos) which would need to be swapped anyway. If your just a parking-lot junkie, the RTR is a great deal, but not for in-depth racing.

As for your second post... the RPM bumper seems to be popular. I run the stock bumper when track testing and tuning, then swap to the RPM during actual heats. The stock one seems to keep front arms on my car when making contact with the boards better than the rpm, but it is too wide to run in most 200mm bodies.

[Krasi_5000]

well, the stock .12 rtr engine is rated at .89HP i think it was. but you really cant bilieve it because there are no industry standards.

to be competitive...i say get a 2-speed and some new tires to say the least. like modular_mustang said if you give us more details we can give you more info!

[Nsxshogun]

Yea i fill you heres what I was thinking about getting

I was goning to replace the stock motor for
the Trinity XP12 .12 Pull Start Picco Side Exhaust Rotary

Put a hardcore racing shaft
and bumper brace

Trinity big bash bumper

associated TC3 2-speed assembly

Associated Factory Team CVD Bones Aluminum TC3

Associated Factory Team Graphite Radio Tray

Also that engine is rated at 1.25 ponies
and yea im a parkin lot junkie but I also race.

Can some one give me a good pipe and manafoid.

Thanks

[Saboteur]

The Picco XP12 will prob end up putting out .96HP or so. No side exhaust engines cranks out 1hp+. The stock AE pipe should be good or you can go with the blue colored one, either for torque or RPM. If you want to go for another pipe, a trinity picco pipe, or novarossi should be cool. It's sux that only on the NTC3 kit for side exhaust engines, instead of the RE is the only one that you can use all types of manifolds. Not to be picky, but I dont like the equipped manifolds that must be used on the RE kit. It looks cheap, but hey it works. :)

[modular_mustang]

I'm not gonna say that a side exhaust won't hit 1hp... I might even go as far as saying maybe 1.2 from a fresh mill. I will say that you have a better chance with a RE from an Italian maker. If your serious about this, I'd personally get a non-pull start and look for a used starter box if you don't already have one.

As for the graphite parts (except woven) check this out. (http://www.rc10.com/misc/article.graphite_myths.htm) I learned this the hard way with my Losi XXXNT Drake (I know I know). I know the radio tray doesn't take much abuse, but a woven graphite one has aluminum post that lets you take only the top screws out to work on the electronics and what not. It will come in handy (trust me:p )

[cbr74]

Don't assume that a rear exhaust engine is automatically more powerful by virtue of being rear exhaust. I run a Collari XS 12 SE that will hang with MT-12's and the like with no problem.

I will say that the Italian engines (my Collari included) are generally more powerful but also a bigger pain to tune.


On a sidenote... ALL claimed horsepower ratings are just that "CLAIMED". They are meaningless numbers used as marketing strategy.

[turbo s15]

can someone please tell me the top-speed of a ntc3 (RTR) out of the box.


and the speed with the added 2-speed with it going on to the rtr ntc3 please.


thanks.:D

[Hooked Up]

Originally posted by Saboteur
No side exhaust engines cranks out 1hp+.

Not true. My Novarossi/HPI 12R SC Evolution II is rated at 1.25 hp and my Fantom FR12 is rated at 1.15hp and both are side exhaust. Sure, there is no standard for measuring hp so these numbers might be bull like any numbers you'll see (for side or rear engines!), but you still shouldn't assume that side exhaust engines can't produce more than 1hp.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by POKeY
Yeah...

The Serpent "bit" me also. My 710 is pre-ordered, so now I'm just waiting for the company to start shipping them out.

I'm not taking anything away from my NTC3 though. My plan is to run the NTC3 on the two short tracks and run the Serpent on the two larger sweeping tracks in my area. We'll have to see if I stick to the plan, lol.

Later-

jeremy


You don't think you're gonna have a problem going froma shaft drive car to a belt?...

I'm not making any decisions till I drive the 710 against my r40 and tc3..

[POKeY]

from: fastharry
You don't think you're gonna have a problem going froma shaft drive car to a belt?...

To be honest... no, not really. I plan on driving/tuning the car for several days before actually racing it. I have never owned a belt driven car before, but I have driven several (R40, MTX-3, Reflex).

To be honest, I'm more worried about getting use to the centax clutch than the belt-drive. Every car I've driven with a centax clutch felt "sluggish and inconsistant" to me, but in all fairness I was driving them on a short technical track which was probably not propperly suited for a centax set-up, and it was someone else's set-up.

I'm not too worried about the performance capabilities of the 710. The way I see it is that the 705 is a very well performing car, and I don't think Serpent would put out a new model which wasn't better than the old. The R40, on the other hand, I have not been impressed with at all. But then again, HPI couldn't help but come out with a better car than the Nitro RS4 3, lol.

Later-

jeremy

[modular_mustang]

I myself find belt drives easier to pilot than shaft. I really notice the difference on tight, technical tracks with "about-face" turns. I like my NTC3 over all my belt cars when i have a farely large straight away and/or swooping curves. It is just my driving style when entering and exiting turns. Everyone is different, and the paint fumes are starting to affect my head:p I prolly shouldn't paint in my basement:D

[KronicRacer]

no you shouldnt paint down there, trust me (personal experience):(

[KanaiDude]

When I was like 16 i got a few hundred dollars in model rockets, well I built them all in my room, have you all used that estes cement for model rockets? I'm 30 now, i'm still having rocket flashbacks... wish I would have done more then just open the windows and sleep on the floor... :D

On a lighter note, you all want to see a pic of my new lotus body with parma green glitter and silver backing???

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by fastharry
if you think thats bad,you should see the interest in the Serpent 710 from guys who have tc3 nitro's AND HPI r40's...(uhh..that would be me;) )
harry check this out http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1236958 :eek:

[nitrojunk]

Ok ive tried searching and the only other person that asked the same question as me also didnt get an answer. So let me try my luck.

I have a NS12 S5 in my TC3, ive noticed that first gear seems to long and second too short..( Stock 2 speed gearing ) Can I make first gear shorter ( for more bottom end) and make second gear a bit longer? If so what gears can i use?

also my car seems to not move sometimes.. actually if its on the starter box the tires seem to spin in reverse...then if i put it down on the ground and hit the throttle i believe the clutchbell and 2 speed turn but the wheels dont move.. Then if i kinda play with the wheels it engages.. DO I HAVE TO SHIM THE REAR DIFFS?

Is the tc3 supposed to free wheel in reverse as good as it does in foward. Mine seems to not free wheel too good in reverse.. This could be linked to my other issue also maybe?

Thanks too anyone who reads this long ass post and helps a fellow rc'er out..

[KanaiDude]

Well the color looks awful in the pic but's a nice green in the sunlight. I'm not sure If i would have liked the black backer better, instead of using silver like I did, it would have been a much darker green, but i sort of like the glassy green silver effect in this one.

[Walt]

Originally posted by nitrojunk
Ok ive tried searching and the only other person that asked the same question as me also didnt get an answer. So let me try my luck.

I have a NS12 S5 in my TC3, ive noticed that first gear seems to long and second too short..( Stock 2 speed gearing ) Can I make first gear shorter ( for more bottom end) and make second gear a bit longer? If so what gears can i use?

also my car seems to not move sometimes.. actually if its on the starter box the tires seem to spin in reverse...then if i put it down on the ground and hit the throttle i believe the clutchbell and 2 speed turn but the wheels dont move.. Then if i kinda play with the wheels it engages.. DO I HAVE TO SHIM THE REAR DIFFS?

Is the tc3 supposed to free wheel in reverse as good as it does in foward. Mine seems to not free wheel too good in reverse.. This could be linked to my other issue also maybe?

Thanks too anyone who reads this long ass post and helps a fellow rc'er out..

I guess I can try this one...

With the NTC3, only certain combinations of 1st gear and 2nd gear will mesh properly. The manual has the available gear combinations listed (towards the back, in the 'tuning' section). If you lost your manual, it's available on-line at Associated's web site. I'm sure you can find a combination that you like, but don't forget that you can also make large changes to the way your car accellerates by changing the clutch engagement point and the shift point.

As for the car not moving, that can be a few things, but my first guess is that the one-way bearing in the 1st gear of your 2-speed has gotten 'goopy' (technical term) and doesn't want to 'grab' sometimes. If something were not shimmed, moving the car back and forth wouldn't help.

Next time this happens, take a look at the drive shaft. If that's not spinning (I bet it's not), then I think it's your one-way bearing. Take your 2-speed apart and clean that bearing out really well. It's a 'roller-ramp' style one-way bearing, and it should NOT have grease on it. Just clean it really well with brake cleaner and maybe put a drop of automatic transmission fluid on it for lubrication (auto transmissions have several similar, but larger, one-way bearings in them, so auto trans fluid is designed to work with them)... many just run them dry though as any lubrication will tend to attract dirt, and this part needs to be able to grab, so you really don't want too much lubrication ever on it.

And I think I can also explain your observation that the car rolls more easily forward than reverse.. when you free wheel in reverse, assuming the one-way bearing is catching, you'll be spinning the gears and the engine clutchbell. When you push forward the one-way bearing releases so you're not spinning as much stuff (no 2-speed spur gears, no clutch bell), so it will run a little smoother... if it runs a LOT smoother, then I'd check: my gear mesh, clutch (make sure it's not grabbing... broken spring or something), and bearings in the clutch bell... those suckers are the first to go on the car.

Good luck.

[KanaiDude]

Hey good post Walt, I was thinking about this one to last night. It has to be something in your 2-speed that's binding your car from free-rolling in reverse. If it is not the one-way bearing it could be something as simple as the screws that hold your spurs to the hubs, if it's not that maybe rocks? You are really going to HAVE TO tear your car down, I would start from the rear end as that is probably where your problem is, could even be a partialy stripped rear pinion inside your diff case, it could be any number of things...

[balmung]

i was wondering is the alum blue shaft worth getting or is it the same as the stock one im going to order a tc3 so far i got the rtr and the 2 speed and was planing to spent like 10 15 dollers more what should i get

[Walt]

Originally posted by balmung
i was wondering is the alum blue shaft worth getting or is it the same as the stock one im going to order a tc3 so far i got the rtr and the 2 speed and was planing to spent like 10 15 dollers more what should i get

If you've only got another $10 or $15 to spend, get yourself some spare parts... pillow balls, hubs, front bumper, suspension arms... these parts can break, and if they do, it won't matter what color your drive shaft is, you aren't going anywhere.

Opinions will vary...

[paladin]

hey, i'm having some issues with my new car maybe you guys coul dhelp me troubleshoot here
I have a sirio .12 i just put in my new tc3, and i'm having an extremely difficult time getting the engine through break-in.
I've tried adjusting the high speed needle, yet it dies at mid to high rev all the time. i just spent the last half hour driving it and i think i went through half a tank of gas.
What should i try next?

[modular_mustang]

Just wondering what starter box everyone was using on their NTC3. My OFNA box doesn't seem to be cutting the mustard anymore. It is so hard to hit the flywheel through the associated chassis with it. Just wondering if there is a better choice out there.

[KanaiDude]

Hey Paladin, I just tuned a sirio this weekend and had a somewhat similiar problem. Are you getting a decent bubbling rich sound out of your engine, you should tune it to almost sputter gas out at first, I also noticed my mid needle needed a slight adjustment to the rich side, as when i would hit the trigger full speed the car would hit the top end way to fast. You should try loosening youre high speed needle a little more, it sounds like your to lean if its stalling half way up to full speed, run rich then make small adjustments to the lean side. It could be your low speed needle to, may want to loosen that a tad also, probably wont even need to make more then 1/4 turn to any one of those to get it closer in the ball park, fairly touchy engine till you figure them out.

Modular - I really like the AE starter box, i'm looking to bye a second, as i have rc10gt and a ntc3 and they have different motor setup. For 1/10 scale the ae or the ofna box that is similiar in style are nice and solid, i like that you can put 2 stick packs in nice and snug it's so light when set up like that, holds a gel cell nice to.

[paladin]

i had the ae starter box, it hasnt given me any problems, but you gotta change it around if you wanna run the gt setup.
middle needle, damn i knew that was gonna come back to bite me in the arse. damn italians....
i'm gonna recheck all my needles and set them back to stock. i'm thinkin set the high speed +1 turn out to 6.5, and the low speed +.5 turns out from 2.5
i'm kinda reluctant to mess with the mid, but if i do what direction would you reccomend? richen it up? stock is only 1 turn out

And right now i'm waitin on some glow plugs i special ordered.
Unfortunately the engine didnt come with a button that supports standard plugs, so i gotta order special rossi ones at 8 bucks a piece (ouch) since the LHS doesnt stock anything non tmaxx it seems(i hate my hobbytown)

[paladin]

oh, i did some checking, i would go with the ofna box. its roughly similar, but you dont have that large external black plastic piece i believe.

[drrcluva]

Hi fellas....I have some questions, please forgive me as I know these are probably already answered in this thread, I just don't have the time to read 1000 posts....I have been out of the RC loop for over a year now, but am getting back in....Its going to be a surprise, but i'm getting either a Nitro TC3 (think its going to be this one) for Xmas or an RC10GT FT.....I have owned both vehicles in the past, but have sold them and now miss them.
One thing I remember about both vehicles is the friggin allen head screws pissing me off to no end, exspecially building the Nitro TC3. Is there an aftermarket phillips screw set I can order?
Secondly, I myself have to pick up an engine for this beast.....In my previous TC3, I had a Picco 15.....The speed of this car was just sick, like nothing I had ever seen or owned...I loved those engines, I had 3 of them, but I am starting from scratch here as I had sold everything.
I checked tower and I see they no longer make the side exhaust pullstart Picco 15's.....BUMMER! I see there is a version called WASP now, but there are no pullstarts. I was thinking of two others that I have never owned, the OS 15 CVR_X or the '03 Fantom 15.......Any opinions on advantages of one over the other? I noticed that OS engine prices have dropped, that is awesome.....You can get an OS 15 CVR-X pullstart SC for $107 at Tower......Last year those suckers were well over $150 if I remember correctly.....Anyhow, thanks to any who can help me, mainly with the screw question. I don't want to be cussing my head off on christmas morning.

[drrcluva]

ooops

[nitrojunk]

For 150.00 there are .12's that would smoke the .15's your asking about.. But im guessing you want pullstart.. For pullstart I would have to say the fantom.. But again if you want speed a good .12 would smoke it..

[drrcluva]

Originally posted by nitrojunk
For 150.00 there are .12's that would smoke the .15's your asking about.. But im guessing you want pullstart.. For pullstart I would have to say the fantom.. But again if you want speed a good .12 would smoke it..
I'm not going to be racing, and I want a side exhaust pullstart.
I'm also a big fan of high torque, and thats why I want a 15.

[cbr74]

I know a guy that has a brand new Picco .15 SE, PS for sale for $120 if you're interested.

[Temjin006]

Can anyone here tell me how i can fit a gel cell into my associated starterbox and what accessorys do i need (wires, connectors, etc.)

[Nitro41]

If you want a high end engine, get one without a pullstart. The acceleration is better without it. Also try to get a slide carb, they also are better off the line. The ntc3 needs a sg shaft or a short threaded shaft (like the gt). I think you can use a serphant shaft too, but you have to use a centax clutch.:D

[ole]

my new ntc3 will be arriving this week. Do i need to replace the stock bumper withe RPM bumper? What about THE FIX do i really need it? Where can i buy THE FIX? What parts do break easily?

[GramdeGixxer]

i have a sirio .12 in my ntc3 and there is a little gap between the clutch bell and flywheel. you can see maybe 2 mm of the clutch shoes. is this normal?

[fastharry]

Originally posted by ole
my new ntc3 will be arriving this week. Do i need to replace the stock bumper withe RPM bumper? What about THE FIX do i really need it? Where can i buy THE FIX? What parts do break easily?



http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3161811714&category=44017


yes to the RPM bumper

[Temjin006]

Can anyone tell me the company and the part number for the low profile wheel nuts that I can use for the NTC3. I am trying to use 35mm foams from CRC. but the stock nuts are too thick.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Temjin006
Can anyone tell me the company and the part number for the low profile wheel nuts that I can use for the NTC3. I am trying to use 35mm foams from CRC. but the stock nuts are too thick.


here ya go..

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMW72&P=7

[Temjin006]

Anyone here try using 35mm foams? i am trying to us 28mm up front and 35mm in the back. Apparently, the outdrive's thread is too short in the back.

How is the RDlogic turbo legal pipe and the Ofna one piece. I am running a RS12T5S1 but I will switch to the NSR12S5 for christmas.

Will the Lighten 2 speed oneway and cluchbell make the car a bit faster?

[KanaiDude]

I have the RDlogic pipe it's pretty nice, good performer. As far as the oneway and clutchbell, are you racing in national races? I just say that as I don't really think they do much, unless every millisecond counts.

[ole]

Is it ok to use an ordinary servo like the S3003 for throttle only? Which one's better venom on board temp gauge or the OFNA or ATOMIK micro temp gun?

[KanaiDude]

You can use that servo, i would not set my break to tightly as these servos can't take to much abuse, so don't have it pulling to hard on your brake, and make sure to set up your throttle so it's not tugging on the engine at WOT, set it just right. I think on-board temp guages are a little gimmicky, I would go with a raytech if you got the money, otherwise, the ofna or atomik is fine. I find myself only checking the engine temp occasionaly after it's been tuned right, therefore knowing what temp your engine is at all times is a little overkill, and it's just one more thing to fly off your car if you hit something hard...

[balmung]

i just got a ntc3 pullstart and a os .12 cvr but the mounts that it came with dont fit the motor can anyone tell me what other mounts might work thnx

[UrbanCowboy]

I used the stealth Diff lube that came with my TC3 Team Kit but I think I need something better. When I'm at the track, my car is way too noisy and I think it's friction in the differentials. Any suggestions on what I should grease er up with? Should I put a lot or just alittle? Thanks

[modular_mustang]

Originally posted by UrbanCowboy
I used the stealth Diff lube that came with my TC3 Team Kit but I think I need something better. When I'm at the track, my car is way too noisy and I think it's friction in the differentials. Any suggestions on what I should grease er up with? Should I put a lot or just alittle? Thanks

Did you just put it together recently or rebuild the diff? If so it might be just the slight breaking in or the diff balls that haven't seen much action yet. I personally (don't try this at home kids) mix the diff lube with a bit of industrial bearing packing lube from my father's shop. It seems to do the trick, but takes a while to really become smooth with the drive train spin. I don't do it in my electric TC3 though. I even know a guy that runs without any at all.

[ole]

What aluminum hop ups do i need? Anyone using aluminum front anr rear suspension mounts? Are they worth it? How about aluminum Steering blocks?

[modular_mustang]

Originally posted by ole
What aluminum hop ups do i need? Anyone using aluminum front anr rear suspension mounts? Are they worth it? How about aluminum Steering blocks?

I don't think you need any aluminum pieces other than what come with the team kit. I run aluminum tranny cases, but that is it. I also suggest locking aluminum hex wheel hubs. Other than that you might be adding weight, when graphit can provide equal chassis stiffeness.

[Nitro41]

Does the graphite conversion increase performance and the strength of the car?:D

[modular_mustang]

Originally posted by Nitro41
Does the graphite conversion increase performance and the strength of the car?:D

performance - yes... it will be slightly lighter while being dramatically stiffer that plastic.

strength - yes and no... you gain a bit of strength, while loosing a good deal of durability. The strength again comes in the form of stiffeness and less chassis flex. Note that graphite doen't rebound as well as plastic (especially when cold).

[jtkz13]

http://photos.imageevent.com/jtkz13/random//websize/1_DSCF0050.JPG

Next to the on/off switch is there supposed to be a screw holding the steering mechanism in place? I would think there should be because I dont see why the steering actuator (or whatever) should be moving around, but I guess I could be wrong. I just got it off Ebay, so I'm a newbie to this kinda stuff. :D

[Temjin006]

For people who use the Associated starterbox, how can I place a 12v battery into it. I dont see how the small area will fit. If I can fit it, what type of hardware such as wires will I need. Having to my car and my friends car, the batteries get drain fast. Sometimes, people I dont know just comes by and use my box. I am starting to get piss cause they dont even ask. I am going to make a decal that say "USE YOUR OWN BOX YOU *******S!". And I am pretty sure they have a box and much better than mine. They come with boxes of tools and cars and they dont want to use there box.

[martindfletcher]

My Ride height is closer to 10 mm than 5.5. How can I lower the ride height? I built per all the instructions settings.

[Temjin006]

I think you should check you droop settings.

[KanaiDude]

jtkz13- I think you are missing the screw that holds the servo mount, which is a bad thing, I would take your hole radio tray out and inspect. Anytime I buy something off ebay I can expect to tear down pretty much the whole car, I usually by an after market screw kit, and replace any stripped screws as well. You don't want someone else's lemmon causing you headache at the track without knowing it...

[torchedlh]

hmmm i just dusted off my ntc3 and i seem to have a bad case of torque steer right now. whenever i gun it, my ntc3 pulls left pretty hard. i've tried tightening the front diff way down but it doesnt' seem to help. i've also tried tightening down the rear diff to no avail. i've reset the droop per manual and cant' figure it out. anyone know of any remedies?

[Nitro41]

Mine does the same thing, except it pulls right. I try to steer it back, but its kind of hard to do while still accelerating. You can also slowly speed up, but whats the fun in that?:D

[Temjin006]

Anyone here heard of Carlsen Tuning. I see their engine ad in mags but never heard of them. They mod MR12 and REX 12s.

I just got a NSR12S5 for my tc3 and I cant wait to put it in.

[Temjin006]

Anyone here run 30% nitro fuel? If so, do u add shims to the head?

[nitrojunk]

Hey Temjin006 :

I also have a NS5 in mt tc3 and its SICK.. Im currently running the stock 2 speed gearing and this thing needs the 27/48 second gear.. It really screams....


Who makes something to eliminate stearing slop on the Ntc3?

Also I saw a Carbon Center shaft for the tc3 but cant locate it anywhere.. does anyone know where to get it?

thanks

[rcmania67]

I have been ruinning elec tc3 for over 2 yrs for fun. I want to get into nitro and looking at ntc3 rtr. I know it comes with single speed.

How fast will the rtr go?

What do I need to get started?

Is it easy to get started?

[Nitro41]

The rtr with the stock .12 engine will do about 30mph. It is pretty easy to get started. You will need fuel, glow starter w/charger, some extra glow plugs, and basic tools. I love mine. I bought a rtr and then got the 2-speed tranny. With the stock .12 and 2speed, it will go about 45+mph. This car is very cool. It will accept just about any .12 engine avialable if you plan to upgrade.:D

[GramdeGixxer]

has anyone else had problems tuning the tt .12 with the restrictor in it? on my wifes i wanted to keep it in until she can stay off te boards but i cant keep it from flaming out with it in. i took it out and it runs great(not as good as my sirio of course) but i would like to be able to put it back in for damage control.

[Nitro41]

The carb resrticter is actually supposed to make it easier to tune, and control the power of the engine. Sounds like the carb settings are a little off.:D

[maximumspeed]

Hey. its been a while since ive posted anything and im planing on buying a new car hopfully a Nitro TC3 :D.

well heres my question: what do u guys think about this upgrade kit for the Nitro TC3...
the kit is a lil pricy but i think its worth it($279.99 + shipping)
heres the website...
http://www.rchub.com/gfx/media/NTC3mod/introduction.html

i was also wondering what engine u guys suggest...
i already have an airtronics M8 and a reciever and some good hitec mg servos from my Ofna 9.5 pro buggy.

[Saboteur]

Originally posted by Nitro41
The rtr with the stock .12 engine will do about 30mph. It is pretty easy to get started. You will need fuel, glow starter w/charger, some extra glow plugs, and basic tools. I love mine. I bought a rtr and then got the 2-speed tranny. With the stock .12 and 2speed, it will go about 45+mph. This car is very cool. It will accept just about any .12 engine avialable if you plan to upgrade.:D

If you are only hitting 30mph with the single speed, the engine needs some retuning. You can max out at 45mph stock. When using the optional 2speed, then it will be able to hit atleast 50mph.

[RC10T3]

Well, its been a long long time since I have posted on this board, but seeing as I have mono now, my interest in rebuilding my NTC3 has been sparked. After taking a season off of racing, I am ready for the upcoming racing season. I just ordered some Ennetti foams, and some maintenance items (diff rings, balls, etc...)
Anyways, here are some pics for you guys.
http://home.comcast.net/~rc10t3/100_0042.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~rc10t3/100_0043.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~rc10t3/100_0044.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~rc10t3/100_0045.JPG

[KanaiDude]

Hey MaximumSpeed - I beleive someone on ebay sells that kit regularly for around 200, and yes it looks nice to me to if your gonna upgrade that stuff anyways...

[rcmania67]

Saboteur

what do u need to do to get the stock motor with single speed to hit 45+?

[Saboteur]

RC10T3- Looking pretty sweet.

rcmania67- You should tune the engine properly and drive the car on a surface with good traction. Run the engine a little lean. Just dont over do it though.

[Nitro41]

So....if I cant hit 45 with the stock engine (single-speed), then you think I should lean it out a bit? I want to keep this engine for a while, before I buy a new one. I just got the 2-speed and I'm probably going around 50, but thats enough for me.:D

[Saboteur]

Not really too lean, but just like 1/8th of a turn to that lean setting. You can still run it slightly rich as well. Also dont forget to check the radio trims to make sure the throttle is up.

[martindfletcher]

How do you define the border between rich and lean?

when the smoke "stops" or when the engine starts to hesitate, or by using a sport fuel and stalling or some other better method?:confused:

[Saboteur]

Ok to make things easier, start from the factory settings and lean it out about 1/8th of a time. Either way, slightly rich or lean, the car is capable of passing 40mph with its tall gearing. That AE engine is quite powerful.

[Nitro41]

Basicly, you cant tell if its too rich or too lean the same for every engine. But, in most engines, you always want to see a stream of smoke coming out the ehuast. One of the best ways to tell, is to use a temp. gun. :D

[Saboteur]

Another way to tell if an engine is too rich or too lean is its actions and how it sounds. :) You can basically do this with any engine.

[Temjin006]

Hey

Anyone here know what the stock needle setting is for the NS12 N5 or the NSR12 S5. They setting should be the same for the two engine.

[Quinton]

Mine's pretty finicky. It either likes to die when I hit the brakes or idle really hi or just kinda take off whenever it wants. ?

[skillfully good]

what i know is the initial setting of the angled screw which is 3 and 1/2 turn out. now, what about the the other screw? is there a recommended initial setting for this screw? i want to ask everyone before i rebuild the assembly.

[Nitro41]

There are 2 angled screws. Adjust them the same untill you get it to shift when you want.:D

[skillfully good]

Originally posted by Nitro41
There are 2 angled screws. Adjust them the same untill you get it to shift when you want.:D
i adjusted the 2 angled screws 1/4(out) of a turn then test run every adjustment. it came to a point that the shoes are too loose already but still it won't shift.

[martindfletcher]

Not to say this is your issue, it probaly is not, but the stock gear ratios are fairly close, I can hardly tell when mine shifts, the only reason I am certain it does is see some wear of the anodization off the pinion gear.

[skillfully good]

Originally posted by martindfletcher
Not to say this is your issue, it probaly is not, but the stock gear ratios are fairly close, I can hardly tell when mine shifts, the only reason I am certain it does is see some wear of the anodization off the pinion gear.
i'm using 6 tooth split and it was shifting fine, it was very noticeable.

[GramdeGixxer]

if you have the screws losened that much it might be locked into 2nd gear?

[Nitro41]

When I first got mine, I didnt think it was shifting when it really was. Like martindfletcher said, the gear ratios are pretty close, so it is hard to tell when it shifts. The NTC3 drivetrain is also very smooth, which makes it even harder to tell. If you have driven the single speed tranny before, then you can tell a difference in acceleration and top speed.

[skillfully good]

guys,
well after rebuilding and carefully adjusting both screws 1/8 out, i finally made it shift. probably when i adjusted last time, the way i turned the screws was too wide to the point the it exceeded the shifting range. thanks for all the feedback.

[FirstLoser]

is a centax clutch really necessary on the NTC3?

[martindfletcher]

what kind of speed do you get with that 6 tooth split?

[martindfletcher]

Any Tire recomendation for asphalt parking lots? Interested in best traction with good wear quality if such a tire exists. :confused:

[martindfletcher]

Any Tire recomendation for asphalt parking lots? Interested in best traction with good wear quality if such a tire exists. :confused:

[nitrojunkee]

I stopped running my ntc3 last year out of frustration !! I for the life of me cant get it to hook up at all, not on power, off power , or even in turns. It really blows !!! Im gonna try again so I can use a local outdoor track this spring. Ill tell you guys that run em a lot what im running, and maybe you could throw some advice at me??? Its the non-pull, rear exhaust kit, and ive got a sirio .12 outlaw, with a dynomite tuned pipe and manifold. The engine runs strong, but id think the chassis would be able to take more power before it loses traction. I mean, even if im in a straight , and I hammer it , it just spins out of control. And forget turns, its a joke. Im running foams even, but am thinking about going back to rubber. Ive tried so many shock set ups, ride height, and you name its. Im so lost, could this engine just be too powerfull for my driving skills? please help with your suggestions and set ups.
thanks, Mark.

[scottericsonon]

Originally posted by martindfletcher
Any Tire recomendation for asphalt parking lots? Interested in best traction with good wear quality if such a tire exists. :confused:

ive been having good luck with hpis "Pro belted slick tire" tire (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM971&P=K)

and the "Pro molder inner foam" these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN007&P=K)

decent grip and good wear

scott

[Jayweezy]

OK, i was reading along the posts a few days back and I read that there were shock towers or rear braces that have this "Fix" built into it. Can someone point me in the direction of the company cause that will be the first thing i get for this car since I am now going to get one.

[Jayweezy]

Nevermind. K Factory is who I am looking for.

Hey I hear you guys all talking about your NTC3s but I have only sen a few on here. If you guys wouldn't mind, could ya post pics of your NTC3 on here?

[Nitro41]

I agree! I would love to see some more pics.:D

[scottericsonon]

http://photo.starblvd.net/scottericsonon/4-4-5-1074208032?m=1&pg=3&ro=3&co=4




http://photo.starblvd.net/scottericsonon/4-5-1-1074185736?m=1&pg=3&ro=4&co=0

MX-3 dynamite one peice

fantom fr12

all the carbon team peices

scott

[cbr74]

TVR Speed 6
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Dec/200312291986081079044982.jpg

Stratus
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Dec/200312293407936512065822.jpg

Modena
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Dec/200312297966917273404769.jpg

Cuda
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Dec/200312291767947795108210.jpg

Under the hood
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Dec/200312297649857119511631.jpg

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Jayweezy
OK, i was reading along the posts a few days back and I read that there were shock towers or rear braces that have this "Fix" built into it. Can someone point me in the direction of the company cause that will be the first thing i get for this car since I am now going to get one.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3165631858

[Jayweezy]

Thanks. So it just ties the shock tower and diff case together?

[Nitro41]

OK, i was reading along the posts a few days back and I read that there were shock towers or rear braces that have this "Fix" built into it. Can someone point me in the direction of the company cause that will be the first thing i get for this car since I am now going to get one.

Yes, but it's a little more complicated. The Fix bolts the chassis, diff case, and shock tower together. It makes it stronger as a unit.:D

[Saboteur]

cbr74- What engine is that? Is that a Collari?

[NitroCrackers]

My dad boguht me a rtr tc3 for chirstmass:D.... I am almost done breaking (and i took out the restrictor) it in but i was wonderin what hopups should i buy the first? im into nitro off-road so the touring car is a BIG change :p i want to keep the stock engine and pipe :rolleyes: because my dad is gonna buy one soon so we can race.... who makes the best chassis??? I was looking at the hardcore pro chassis, is that any good or is there a better brand or wha? I think the car needs a better steering servo, how much torque should i need, maby 70 or so?

well thanx for reading, im likin my new street ride so far:cool:

Anthony

[cbr74]

Saboteur... yes, that's a Collari Innotech XS12PSS and it's nasty.

:D

[Jayweezy]

ok, so that's what the Fix does.

[Saboteur]

Yeah I heard those Collari's RIP. Awesome engine. Wish more of them were available at other LHS instead of just Acehobbies.

[cbr74]

Can get them from RcBoyz:
Collari (http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=17267&clist=0,9835,11301)

[martindfletcher]

Originally posted by nitrojunkee
I stopped running my ntc3 last year out of frustration !! I for the life of me cant get it to hook up at all, not on power, off power , or even in turns. It really blows !!! Im gonna try again so I can use a local outdoor track this spring. Ill tell you guys that run em a lot what im running, and maybe you could throw some advice at me??? Its the non-pull, rear exhaust kit, and ive got a sirio .12 outlaw, with a dynomite tuned pipe and manifold. The engine runs strong, but id think the chassis would be able to take more power before it loses traction. I mean, even if im in a straight , and I hammer it , it just spins out of control. And forget turns, its a joke. Im running foams even, but am thinking about going back to rubber. Ive tried so many shock set ups, ride height, and you name its. Im so lost, could this engine just be too powerfull for my driving skills? please help with your suggestions and set ups.
thanks, Mark.

I am not an expert, but I had the EXACT issue you have, and the MIP tweak guage solved my problem nearly 100%. It is very controlable now, even after going into a drift or U-y.

I am not trying to pimp tower here, but this seems to be easiest way to point out the part.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNY22&P=7

[drrcluva]

Hello all, Was hoping you guys could help me with a problem on my shiny new Picco powered NTC3.
Took it out for its maiden run tonight and after awhile started tuning the engine for power and started to let her rip. The speed is blistering even in first gear but when it winds out to go into second gear the engine just screams and it freewheels as though the 2 speed shoes are not grabbing....Once I let off the throttle its zooming off again in first gear until it winds out to second and starts free rolling again.
It was cold outside and I didn't have a whole lot of light to mess around adjusting the 2-speed, so its still on the recommended settings from the manual.
Before I tear her apart and start investigating, is there anybody that could share ideas on the problem?

[FirstLoser]

To me it sounds like it could possibly be the one way hub in the 2-speed... just my opinion.....

[Saboteur]

What picco engine is this?

[drrcluva]

Originally posted by FirstLoser
To me it sounds like it could possibly be the one way hub in the 2-speed... just my opinion.....
I checked the one way and its ok...Anyhow, correct me if i'm wrong, but the one way would not affect the the engagement of second gear as it just freerolls once in second.....For some reason the 2-speed clutch just isn't engaging...I made minor adjustments, i'll try it again tomorrow.

[drrcluva]

Originally posted by Saboteur
What picco engine is this?
Its the Trinity/Picco 15XP pullstart. Me likes...Me likes it alot :D
I've run Picco's in the past and they are way faster than anything else I have owned.....Including a Nova C12 I had....

[GramdeGixxer]

it sounds to me like you either have the 1 way installed backwards or that the 2 speed clutch shoes have some oil or something on them causing them to slip. good luck. also try going to nitrotc3.com they have a lot of 2 speed help on that site.

[drrcluva]

Well, thanks for the help guys, but it just turned out that the 2 speed simply needed to be loosened....Doesnt make sense to me though with the symptoms I was getting. Anyhow, all is well now.
I quickly discovered today that the Picco is a bit overkill.
The speed and power is just about uncontrollable and even though the parking lot I am in is goodsized, its still not big enough for this speedster. Since I don't race, I should of just settled for a more tame OS 12 CVX or somthing, but I gotta admit this sucker is fun.
Before I put it away today, I popped on my beautiful freshly painted Saleen Mustang body and let her rip.
Right after I hit second gear, the right rear tire started coming unglued and ballooned really bad hitting the wheel well of the body causing the car to go into a spin which was followed by an impressive series of flips and ended with about a 100 foot skid on its roof. No damage other than the body looking like it had been through a derby :( I'll have to try and buff out the black tar marks on the roof....Oh well, this car rocks though...Go Picco :D

[Saboteur]

Just remember you do have the .15 version instead of the .12. Gonna get a lot more bottom end. Great engine. I'd like to see it with a slide carb, like an OS or Novarossi. I hope my LHS can order one for me so I can use it in my sedan;centax needs a standard crank. Still looking at buying a NTC3 round spring time or so.

[drrcluva]

Yea, I should have gotten a 12 for more controllable low end, but i'm not complaining. :cool: Definatly pick up a Picco if you can. I have run several OS, Picco and a couple Novarossi engines and I can say without doubt that the Picco was the most powerful and reliable. I also love the composite carbs and don't understand why more engines don't use them. They make hotstarts easy and consistant.

[martindfletcher]

Anyone ever bend or tweak their drive shaft on the NTC3?

Mine no longer spins straight. The only two things I can think that may have caused it is I once found a twig wedged between the drive shaft and the handle, and once a pebble completely locked the pinion and spur gear.

[Nitro41]

I hit a tire at full speed and bent the driveshaft. Doesnt sound like a twig can bend it, but a pebble might tweak it if it stopped real quick. It most likely bends from hitting something, or a very sudden stop.

[SebastianG]

Im a proud owner of NTC3

here is the thread

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=152690

[ole]

any comments on the GH front blade anti roll bars?

[Drive4fun]

It's been a while since i posted in this forum. Havent really put much interest no more cause of the weather we are having here in NYC pretty cold. Well, i own the RTR NTC3 currently all stock. The Ace Jaguar servo failed on my after i hit it against a tire of a car. I bought a hobbico servo with the metal gears which said to be more durable which makes sense. But the servo is much bigger than the stock Ace Jaguar one. I have trouble putting the servo in the car. When i do it wont tight turn like it use to because the link would hit the plastic and wont turn anymore. What should i do? I've looked for the Ace Radio servo but no luck finding it. I might as well get a good one but which one should i get? Remember i got the Ace radio setup from the RTR. I will try to post a picture of how it looks like. Thanks for your time.
Adam

[Drive4fun]

It's been a while since i posted in this forum. Havent really put much interest no more cause of the weather we are having here in NYC pretty cold. Well, i own the RTR NTC3 currently all stock. The Ace Jaguar servo failed on my after i hit it against a tire of a car. I bought a hobbico servo with the metal gears which said to be more durable which makes sense. But the servo is much bigger than the stock Ace Jaguar one. I have trouble putting the servo in the car. When i do it wont tight turn like it use to because the link would hit the plastic and wont turn anymore. What should i do? I've looked for the Ace Radio servo but no luck finding it. I might as well get a good one but which one should i get? Remember i got the Ace radio setup from the RTR. I will try to post a picture of how it looks like. Thanks for your time.
Adam

[Drive4fun]

I apologize for the double post, browser was acting up. Ty again.

[Drive4fun]

Here is the picture that i just took. As you can see that there is one screw missing, this is because it wont go in. Its to big to fit in there, something is obviously wrong. How can i improve this any comments would help please. Thank you again.
Adam

[Quinton]

Here's a pic of my free rally conversion with new 20" shoes.

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/279000-279999/279399_58_full.jpg

[TC3Kamikaze]

Originally posted by Drive4fun
Here is the picture that i just took. As you can see that there is one screw missing, this is because it wont go in. Its to big to fit in there, something is obviously wrong. How can i improve this any comments would help please. Thank you again.
Adam

Two things that come to mind looking at the shot. You could drill a hole so it will mount more solid. Adjust the epa if the radio has it or adjust the servo horn to stop the hitting problem.
TC3

Nice rally Quinton

[Drive4fun]

After hard work I got it done myself had to take whole front of car apart. The servo was missing this on a side. Dont know how i come to misplace it but, i made it work without it now its fresh as new. Well thanks again.
Here is the Picture with the two screws in and ready for reassembly. At last after some work hehe.. Stressfree

[ole]

Originally posted by ole
any comments on the GH front blade anti roll bars?

[lumps]

I know its probably already here somewhere, but could a experienced racer please post two lists of spares to carry.
1. Things that get easily broken in general racing accidents
2. Upgrades that are required for racing to ensure reliability.

Thanks

[torchedlh]

Originally posted by torchedlh
hmmm i just dusted off my ntc3 and i seem to have a bad case of torque steer right now. whenever i gun it, my ntc3 pulls left pretty hard. i've tried tightening the front diff way down but it doesnt' seem to help. i've also tried tightening down the rear diff to no avail. i've reset the droop per manual and cant' figure it out. anyone know of any remedies?

people please. i need to get this resolved. thanks

[martindfletcher]

Originally posted by torchedlh
people please. i need to get this resolved. thanks


Is Torque steer the the car changing direction when on throttle?

If yes, a tweak station cured nearly all the torque steer in my car which solved my traction issue.


martindfletcher
New Member

Registered: 12-14-2003

Re: Cant hook up !!!!

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by nitrojunkee
I stopped running my ntc3 last year out of frustration !! I for the life of me cant get it to hook up at all, not on power, off power , or even in turns. It really blows !!! Im gonna try again so I can use a local outdoor track this spring. Ill tell you guys that run em a lot what im running, and maybe you could throw some advice at me??? Its the non-pull, rear exhaust kit, and ive got a sirio .12 outlaw, with a dynomite tuned pipe and manifold. The engine runs strong, but id think the chassis would be able to take more power before it loses traction. I mean, even if im in a straight , and I hammer it , it just spins out of control. And forget turns, its a joke. Im running foams even, but am thinking about going back to rubber. Ive tried so many shock set ups, ride height, and you name its. Im so lost, could this engine just be too powerfull for my driving skills? please help with your suggestions and set ups.
thanks, Mark.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

from another tread in response to unable hooh up:

I am not an expert, but I had the EXACT issue you have, and the MIP tweak guage solved my problem nearly 100%. It is very controlable now, even after going into a drift or U-y.

I am not trying to pimp tower here, but this seems to be easiest way to point out the part.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXNY22&P=7



Report this post to a moderator | IP: Logged

[torchedlh]

well it looks like i'm gonna buy a mip tweak station from an rctech member as well as an integy setup station..

anyway, i plan to start racing soon. where do you guys mount your transponders? i'm talking about track transponders right now, will get a personal one later.

[Speedy Gonzales]

Hey Guy's,

I moved the settings of my O.S. TR Turbo in my HardCore NTC3.

Now it goes hot right away.And it turns off as soon it goe's to mid speed.

Please Help. :(

Andale.. Andale .................... Ups.... I turn off.

[Anemic_SluG]

Originally posted by torchedlh
well it looks like i'm gonna buy a mip tweak station from an rctech member as well as an integy setup station..

anyway, i plan to start racing soon. where do you guys mount your transponders? i'm talking about track transponders right now, will get a personal one later.


There is a mod that you can do that puts the transponder right up front. You can cut out the foam bumper the size of the transpondern and then secure it btween the body posts with a long pin clip. This protects the transponder in the car as well as puts it right up front. Every little edge counts and if you are tied with someone and there transponer is mounted on the side of the vehicle you will win. I am sure every racer has thier own opinion, but I have used this mounting position for a season now and it has worked well.

[skillfully good]

speedy gonzales,

try leaning your low speed needle and riching your high speed needle by 1/4 turn each. if you have a temp gun monitor the temperature you might be overheating the engine that's why it stalls.

[skillfully good]

i know its harder to drive, you can't us the break when turning? but would it be faster on cornering? will it be better on tight technical tracks? your inputs pls.

[torchedlh]

Originally posted by Anemic_SluG
There is a mod that you can do that puts the transponder right up front. You can cut out the foam bumper the size of the transpondern and then secure it btween the body posts with a long pin clip. This protects the transponder in the car as well as puts it right up front. Every little edge counts and if you are tied with someone and there transponer is mounted on the side of the vehicle you will win. I am sure every racer has thier own opinion, but I have used this mounting position for a season now and it has worked well.

that's actually what i was thinking of doing. i saw that done before. just wanted to get some ideas before i hacked up by bumper. thanks!

[drrcluva]

Originally posted by skillfully good
speedy gonzales,

try leaning your low speed needle and riching your high speed needle by 1/4 turn each. if you have a temp gun monitor the temperature you might be overheating the engine that's why it stalls.
He mentioned it getting hot right away, and then stalling when he accelerates to half throttle......If it is getting hot at idle, he does NOT want to lean out the low end more.....He would want to richen it as well as the high end.

[Saboteur]

Originally posted by skillfully good
i know its harder to drive, you can't us the break when turning? but would it be faster on cornering? will it be better on tight technical tracks? your inputs pls.

With the one-way diff, you will only have the rear breaking so you'd have to watch your speed going in and coming out of the turns. You dont want to hit the throttle too hard and spin out. For a smaller tight track use a gear diff or ball diff instead. Leave the one-ways for the large tracks.

[ole]

do i need to upgrade the front and rear hinge pin arm mounts to aluminum? Do the plastic one's break easily like those from the electric tc3?

[skillfully good]

Originally posted by Saboteur
With the one-way diff, you will only have the rear breaking so you'd have to watch your speed going in and coming out of the turns. You dont want to hit the throttle too hard and spin out. For a smaller tight track use a gear diff or ball diff instead. Leave the one-ways for the large tracks.
thanks Saboteur,
i have the stock ntc3 and what brand of gear or ball diff that is good to buy?

[ole]

Originally posted by ole
do i need to upgrade the front and rear hinge pin arm mounts to aluminum? Do the plastic one's break easily like those from the electric tc3?

[NothingButShaft]

If I may interject for a sec! :)
Anyone ever break the blue RPM bumper? I want to get one and wanted to know if it's really that much stronger then the stock one.

Thank you:

[torchedlh]

it's got a "lifetime warranty" so even if it did i imagine you could get it replace free..

[NothingButShaft]

true... thx

[Saboteur]

skillfully good- Work with the stock ball diffs for now. Some say they are pretty weak for nitro onroad vehicles and feel gear diffs should be installed. I like the ball diffs as you can adjust them on the spot unlike gear diffs which need to be removed from the car, taken apart and filled with different oil wt. The only downside to ball bearings is maintainance. After some time, preferebly after a few runs, it should be dismantled and cleaned. Also the thrust bearings do get worn down and will need replacing. Dont run the diff too loose as you dont want any slipping.

[ole]

what are your inputs on the aluminum brake drive cup, aluminum bilkhead and factory team graphite upper plate?

[skillfully good]

Originally posted by Saboteur
skillfully good- Work with the stock ball diffs for now. Some say they are pretty weak for nitro onroad vehicles and feel gear diffs should be installed. I like the ball diffs as you can adjust them on the spot unlike gear diffs which need to be removed from the car, taken apart and filled with different oil wt. The only downside to ball bearings is maintainance. After some time, preferebly after a few runs, it should be dismantled and cleaned. Also the thrust bearings do get worn down and will need replacing. Dont run the diff too loose as you dont want any slipping.
well noted with thanks.:)

[fordman500]

I first want to say that Ive been doing a lot of reading on this website for a couple of weeks now.Tons of great info.

Well anyway Ive decided to get back into racing after a 3 year hiatus.The last car I raced was a HPI Racer with a .12 OS CV-X.I never really cared for it much.It was pretty hard to get hooked up.

About a month ago I picked up a used NTC3 with a .12 OS CV-R.Its the Team kit so it has all the goodies(well you all know that).So Far the only thing Ive added is a graphite radio tray.I raced my car for the first time last Sunday with some decent results.I just have a few questions about the set up of the car though.

1.I carefully set up my car with a Integy setup station.On the straight the car hooked to the left BIGTIME even with my trim all the way to the right.What causes this?

2.What pipe to use with the CV-R?Right now I have the AE blue RPM pipe.

3.What can I do to the motor for alittle more power?I run 20% Trinity Fuel.

4.Lastly when exiting a turn the back end wanted to kick out.I run on a super high traction track(Silver Bowl in Las Vegas).Is it possible theres too much traction?

Im using Elligi 30mm/30 shore and 26mm/30 shore.Swaybar in rear.Red springs all around with 70# oil.All my other setup is to the manual.
I would appreciate any help you guys can give me.Thanks!!!

[N2OSupra]

try this:

High Traction Smooth Asphault Setup (http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/setup/racersetups/ntc3_barry_ftmyers_2003.pdf)

or you can go here and try and modify this..its at the same track you race on but it was low traction and slippery from oil:

Silver Bowl Setup...Low Traction. Slippery Conditions (http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/setup/racersetups/2003/ntc3.baker.silverbowl.2003.pdf)

of course youre going to use the setup thats for your home track, 2nd link.....its for low traction but you can take that and change things here and there to suit your needs

but first things first...id try some different foams
i would try 35's up front
30's in the rear
or
40's front
35's rear

always see if its the tires....then go to your setup

[frank13]

with regards to the rear end slipping outon you outta a turn --- check the rear diff,, i had the same problem , tried everything , every setup known to god, every size tires, traction compound , you name it i tried it all , so, last time i tore the car down , i realized my rear diff was too tight , and really needed a rebuild , so i cleaned the diff really well , rebuilt as per insructions , set the CORRECT tightness , and all problems went away ,,

[xardjetx]

OK here goes, I just implanted my mod mt-12 into my old NTC3, but was wondering what is the best way to fit the brake/throttle linkage? Since it is a slide carb, it's just not working right, someone said put the servo in backwards? I dont know since my previous motor on that sucker was an os-12tr.

[N2OSupra]

how to hook up a slide carb is in the manual

[POKeY]

Hi-

I have a Kit NTC3 and recently got the Hudy set-up system. To get the wheel axles to fit on the set-up blocks I had to trim away just a little bit of the block's holes on the outside edges where the axles go through. Now it works fine and the blocks slide on with minimum effort.

Now here's my problem....

I've tried to use the station on two friend's NTC3's (one Kit one RTR) and neither car's axles fit onto my set-up blocks. They were both too tight. Neither had any noticable damage. Neither had any thread lock on them.

Not a big deal... it's just gotten my curiousity up. I can't figure out why mine will fit and theirs won't. I don't want to file any more out of the hole either because my 710 axles slide right on and I'm afraid that if I cut away any more the fit would be too lose.

Any theories on this would be appreciated.

Thanks-

jeremy

[Krasi_5000]

It appears AE is releasing a NTC3 Factory Team Kit in Late February! Looks like its pretty jamm packed of goodies and stuff. Check it out HERE (http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitspecs_ntc3/kitntc3.htm)

[Nitro41]

That factory team edition does look pretty sweet!:D

[ghuslez28]

AE has the FT Nitro TC3 ready for the market at the end of this month

CHECK IT OUT HERE! (http://laracers.tripod.com/news.htm)

[KronicRacer]

time for the rear suspension upgrade!:D :cool: :cool:

[kekekek]

seriously im sorry for asking this question its prolly been asked 10000000 times but ...im not gonna sift through like 1000 pages so....how fast is it stock :)

[jnegrx]

The new FT NTC3 looks sweet.

Does anyone know the new suspention part numbers?

[torchedlh]

2237 NTC3 Rear Shock Tower, Ver 2
2238 NTC3 Rear Suspension Arms, Ver 2
2268 NTC3 Rear Hub Carriers, Ver 2
2271 NTC3 Rear Turnbuckle Eyelet & Balls
2275 NTC3 Front/Rear Arm Mounts, Ver 2
2283 NTC3 Rear Turnbuckle .825"
2308 NTC3 M3 x 18mm BHCS
2309 M3 Nyloc Nut

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by torchedlh
2237 NTC3 Rear Shock Tower, Ver 2
2238 NTC3 Rear Suspension Arms, Ver 2
2268 NTC3 Rear Hub Carriers, Ver 2
2271 NTC3 Rear Turnbuckle Eyelet & Balls
2275 NTC3 Front/Rear Arm Mounts, Ver 2
2283 NTC3 Rear Turnbuckle .825"
2308 NTC3 M3 x 18mm BHCS
2309 M3 Nyloc Nut

EXCELLENT, only question when they will be available? before or after the release of the ft?

[trickedoutGT]

Yo Torched, how about we bash sometime?:cool:

[Jhstud50]

How fast can the NTC3 RTR go out of the box?

[thunderbt3]

id say around 45, thats what the cop said when he clocked me run past his car

i upgraded to a 2 speed, havent clocked it since then but i know its alot faster

my ntc3 is up for sale

[Hooked Up]

Not listed on their website anymore or their price list. Wussup with that??

:confused:

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/protoform.html

[frank13]

i talked to them last week ,, i was told parts will be out in a week or so ,, kit shipping at end on feb

[rs12s2t5]

i have the rd diff cases on my tc3....i think they work great,they fit well and have taken some really hard hits.

[rs12s2t5]

I'd like to hear your findings Frank if they indeed fit. I'm waiting for a LHS to get their order of Kfactory tanks in. I like how it's setup, real slick compared to the stock tank. Anyone running RD Logics cases? If they rock I might give em a try and skip getting the fix.
TC3
i have the rd diff cases on my tc3,they have taken some really hard hits. the shok towers will break before the diffs will :)