HPI RS4 3/SS/Evo forum V2.0

[delphidude]

just a joke sorry if i offended you or anyone else. i know there are many canadians on the board i have been here since 2000 ( banned once though)

[Turbo B]

boy do i wish i had a truck.. but we didnt get much snow hope i can find a savage soon for a good price lol.. but how has every1 been? good i hope.. well im gettin back to my studys...

[T-EVO RACER]

i'll get that upper deck down the line, testing my project evo tommorrow baby!!!

[rchockeystick]

is there a way that i can keep my can clean with having the body still on. I broke mine in today and when i have the body off it stays pretty clean, with it on my air filter is pitch black and theres grease and rocks everywhere. Should i cut anouther hole in the body or wat?

[T-EVO RACER]

Tommorrow at the track I'll finish my mazda 6 body. I'll post pics when I get the carbon fiber upper deck, thats in a while though.

[josh222]

its ok, you will like the upper deck.

I have been on since 2001 and have been banned a long time ago :(

[Jetskiboy77]

And who showed you that awesome deal? :D :D :D It is a damn good engine, you'll be happy with it. And please lets stay away from the location flaming. :) This is easily my favorite part of this forum, so lets not ruin it with stupid flaming. :)

[Swift_Tik]

By buying the HPI Graphite Upper Deck for my RS4 3 Type SS, will it allow me to use the 5 cell stick pack in place of the 4 AA box?

[delphidude]

so cold i was going to do more test with a rwd only with and with out posi yesterday but it got so damn cold. i want to get that hpi engine at rcboyz because it is only 80 but i have no way to start it.

[josh222]

it isn't really a HPI engine it is a NovaRossi under HPI name. From what i have seen it is a very snappy engine

[josh222]

with the upperdeck you can still use the stock pack

[delphidude]

i found a nib sts rs3 for 90 shipped i may get it idk. i have heard about many problems with sts engines but this seems like sutch a good deal

[delphidude]

can you order from rc boys with out using a credit card?

[Swift_Tik]

with the upperdeck you can still use the stock pack

Well I just bought a stick pack for my RS4 3 Type SS and I hear(but am not sure) in order for it to fit I need that upper deck. So will it fit with the upper deck or what?

[trw]

yes you will need a carbon fiber upperdeck to fit a battery pack, depends which deck you get and what type of pack you get.

to fit a flat 5 cell or greater pack you will need the HPI upper deck, to fit a battery box of 4 AAs or a hump pack you will need the hotbodies upper deck.

[Jetskiboy77]

can you order from rc boys with out using a credit card?

No I dont think so. You can check out what he has on eBay. If he does have the parts you want, and you win the auction, he'll probably let you send cash or check.

Whats everyone think of these Screwz? (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5914224249&rd=1) Im thinkin about getting them for a Christmas/Hanukkah present.

[T-EVO RACER]

Tested my evo today, it was great, just need the carbon fiber upper deck(comin' soon) and a cvd that goes to the rear dif, what are the strongest cvds they make and how much? wow!! that sts motor spun my dogbones every other tank on the track!!!!!!!!

[trw]

dont get CVDs, they will work themselves loose, there are ways to prevent that but its just easier to get universals, not to mention universals are more durable....I use hotbodies steel universals in my car

[josh222]

CVD's are smoother, all you do to stop the pin from coming loose is put like tape or heat shrink rap on the cvd

[racer234]

Everything I've heard (on this board and others) says to avoid the CVD's.

[Hockeekidd98]

Heh , i think i'm gonna make some one jealous.. I found out where to get the CF bumper...
lol
and i bought it...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5943816040

[trw]

that doesnt look right, the pink posts coming out the back should be perpendicular to the plate going down to mount to the lower plate, unless that mounts to the front of the shock tower.

[rs4lola]

No I dont think so. You can check out what he has on eBay. If he does have the parts you want, and you win the auction, he'll probably let you send cash or check.

Whats everyone think of these Screwz? (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5914224249&rd=1) Im thinkin about getting them for a Christmas/Hanukkah present.Get them!!!
I got them and I might order another set for my car. I use them for the main chassis screws such as the top deck and underneath the chassis. For the suspension components i used titanium screws and aluminum balls ends. Very light and and very strong...

[rs4lola]

Everything I've heard (on this board and others) says to avoid the CVD's.I used the mip cvd's and they worked fine except I lost the pin at least twice on the right rear and you need to rebuild them
to maintain their performance. I switched to steel universals and have had no problems whatsoever. Which is better???
BOTH are better than the stock dogbones!!! If you do get universals all around, you may want to get a set of ceramic ball bearings aswell. Very expensive but the rolling resistance of the universals is decreased even more. Less resistance = more acceleration...just a thought...

[T-EVO RACER]

Whats the price tag on a steel universal????

[Jetskiboy77]

The Hot Bodies front and rear universals I have were about 9$ each. The only problem I had was that the pin fell out of the front one. I ordered the "MIP CVD Repair" kit and stuck the pin that it came with into my universal, and put a very small dab of superglue on each end to make sure it would stay in. Its never given me and problems since then.

Hockee- Thats an awesome price that you got it for. Gotta love eBay.

Lola- Im like 99.9% sure I will get those screws. If not now, some time very soon. They look great and im not comfortable not having replacement screws. And theyre Hex's, so thats kinda cool too.

[MT2 owns you]

i have an mt2 and soon a SS and already i need a new screw set. now..where exactly do you get the hex set?? thanks

[josh222]

there on Ebay, look around

[racer234]

MT2 owns you- If you don't want to use ebay (I try to avoid it as much as I can :p ) you can get the screws at www.rcscrewz.com
It's a good company, and their products are great too.

[josh222]

ya and that site too :D

[Jetskiboy77]

eBay is cheaper though.

[delphidude]

i think 18 a pair at tower

[Jetskiboy77]

Whats 18$ a pair?

[Hockeekidd98]

Yeah I love ebay...

Any way, I bought those screws you linked on ebay... lol... I'm spending all my christmas money already... I did a quick tally of how much money i spent on rc... wow

money leaves my pockets as soon as it gets put in... lol

[T-EVO RACER]

I'll get two rear universals. thanx fo' the input!!

my shopping list:
1. two rear steel universals
2. carbonfiber upper deck
3. more mugen foams

[delphidude]

i think like 18 a pair

[josh222]

that sounds good

[rchockeystick]

is there a cheap way to make my car alot faster without alot of money

is there a way to get better traction... like really good traction i want my tires to last and not burn out

is there a way to keep my car clean with the body on with it off it stays pretty clean with it off its like an inch of filth

[delphidude]

os 18 cv-r and 2 speed will give you the fastest speed for the money

[rchockeystick]

mine came with a 2 speed...

[MT2 owns you]

MT2 owns you- If you don't want to use ebay (I try to avoid it as much as I can :p ) you can get the screws at www.rcscrewz.com
It's a good company, and their products are great too.
thanks. i dont really use ebay..at all..only once when i broke my dads tail light. now can i get the screws at my lhs? that is really the easiest way for me to get stuff bbecause i dont really order off the internet AT ALL..and then theres the part where im not allowed..so any information on where i can get these without ordering off the internet would be fanTASTIC
thanks

[delphidude]

mine came with a 2 speed...
even better. the os 18 cv-rx is $92 at towerhobbies.com

[T-EVO RACER]

thats a god price!! so 18 bucks fo' universals, the carbonfiber upper deck, about 30 bucks, so I'm lookin' at a 50 bucks today, ok. Thanx again for the help on these products!!

[Silent Night]

I say get the .18 TZ if you want some serious power.. But then I don't think your tires will last very long at all with all that power..

[Jetskiboy77]

T Evo, I was mistaken and misunderstood you, but its actually good that I did. I thought you meant the CENTER Universals. Not the rears. I have the rears, I paid 15$ each, and no pin or anything has come off them. They have been problem free since a couple of months ago, and look to be extremly solid and durable. Im sorry I misunderstood you, but the rear universals were only 15$ and have been better than perfect, and absoulty no problems with and pins, and theres no binding. They made my drivetrain extremely smooth. They were well worth the price.

[delphidude]

Rs4-3 irs tc3 driveshaft. Gt shocks and links. Posi rear with hd gear and out drives. It will have dirt hawgs in the front and paddles in the rear. It will have an os 18 cv-rx

http://img53.exs.cx/img53/8278/customrs4001.jpg
http://img53.exs.cx/img53/1651/customrs4002.jpg
http://img53.exs.cx/img53/8958/customrs4003.jpg
http://img53.exs.cx/img53/1414/customrs4004.jpg

[the-one1]

Nice, but I'd use something other than those ball studs for the rear brace. Those balls are gona snap right off.
Center mounted engine in a truck looks cool.

[T-EVO RACER]

no, you understood me right, I want to replace the dogbone that goes to the rear dif from the tranny.

[T-EVO RACER]

a sts .12 motor is a 5 PORT outlaw motor!! plenty fast, I don't think a .18 can beat it, in some cases there is a replacement fo' displacement, DESIGN!! the .40 cen genesis motor is sooooooooooo crappy a .15fe motor from HPI can go faster (exajuration) but pretty much true!!

[T-EVO RACER]

fa sho, now!! tommorrow I'm getting my parts, the carbon fiber upper deck and some dogbones and two steel universals!!! I fixed my linkage for the throttle so nothin' rubs. my rs4 is soooooooooo much better than stock!!

[Jetskiboy77]

lol My bad T Evo, I havent been getting a lot of sleep lately because of school, but thatll change with this winter vacation. :D :D :D When you said UNIVERSALS in the plural, I thought you meant the two rear ones, not the two center ones. Sorry for the mess up.

[T-EVO RACER]

sall good!!

[Jetskiboy77]

lol @ T Evo

Im mad, I dont think my parts will be delievered for a couple more days because the shipping companies have off today. Hopefully im wrong though, although they deserve to enjoy the holidays too, but I want my parts. :D

[josh222]

I have good news, i got more money than i thought :) i have about 150bucks :D So i will be chosing a engne to get soon. i am at Fantom .12-15, OS CVR 18, .12R XS

[delphidude]

os 18

[CrankrodsKid]

Well, I just got the rs4 3 evo and I have to say i'm really impressed with the way this car is built, however I did not get to start break in today because it has been raining all day here :( , so it looks like tonight my project will be taking all the radio equipment out, and swapping it with all the airtronics stuff my MX-3 came with... :)

[T-EVO RACER]

hey, that carbon fiber upper deck, can you only get that online???, cause thats what one local hoby stores said.

[josh222]

T-EVO most LHS will stock them. I bought mine from my lhs

CrankRodskid, do your breakin good don't rush it. The MX3 is a very good radio and have fun

[Swift_Tik]

T-EVO, I also got mine from a LHS. At first they said they didn't have it, but it was there in the back with all the stuff people don't buy.

[Swift_Tik]

also i have a small question about my newly acquired RS4 3 Type SS. On the rear, the axels do not stick out far enough so that i can slip the small steel shaft through the two holes. I just measure the front and rear axels, and the rear axels are the longer ones. Is one of the baring just not pushed in all the way or what. I checked everything i could think of. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks and sorry for the double post.

[josh222]

can you take a pic of your problem, i know that part was a bit of a pain to asemble

[Swift_Tik]

*edit*

nevermind, pliers fixed it. The bearing wasn't in all the way. thnx josh for the would be help.

[josh222]

i was gona say the bearings may look in but are not

[Swift_Tik]

Yeah i figured it was the bearing, but it looked fine when i checked it and tried to push it in.

One more small question:

The screws that hold things onto the chassis, are they suppose to be ALL the way in? Some of my screws are very tight but hang a bit from the chassis.

Can't wait to test drive when it gets a bit warmer down here in Louisiana. It snowed today!! I hope everything was installed right becuse some parts of the directors were hard to understand.

Any small tips for a beginner to nitro?

[josh222]

all the screws should be flush with the chassi

Take your time when doing the breakin. don't rush it or ypu will pay for it later

[HYPA]

I am just wondering if anyone knows when the Stage D Drift conversion kit comes out and where I can get it from. I wanna start Drifting asap.

[Hockeekidd98]

you don't need the conversion kit to drift just make some pvc wheels.

[delphidude]

hey guys i need some stock parts if anyone has them i have some money

need 2 axels ( not the dog bones)
2 of the stock rear links
2 stock shocks

this would really help so lmk

[Jetskiboy77]

All the countersunk screws should be flush with the chassis, not the screws for the engine mounts. You probably know that, but im just making sure. The Type SS is an awesome car and it wil be worth the wait to break it in.

You dont really need the drift conversion. As said you can use the PVC pipe wheels, and harden your suspension. The drift kit would be cool, but if you want to go back to "race" driving, youll have to do a lot of work to switch it back, as where if you just have a hard suspension and the PVC pipe tires, all you have to do is change to real tires, and maybe mess with the suspension a little.

[Swift_Tik]

All of my screws except one or two of the transmission screws are flush. Those transmission mount screws just won't go all the way in. :(

[josh222]

try some shorter screws

[Swift_Tik]

Tried to break in my car today but i had trouble starting it. The first day my settings were all screwed up so today I went out with all factory settings and it started up. The engine died after about two minutes. I heard the exhaust note change to a lower tone before it died so i leaned the low-end mixture and tried starting it up. It started but died in about 30 seconds. After tht it was a pain to even get the engine to start. I did notice that sometimes when i would get it to start, I would remove the glo ignitor and it would die. Also, sometimes my engine seems like it is getting either to much fuel(flooding) or not getting any at all. I have checked both lines and the air return seems like it has air bubbles in it.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Am about to go try again in a little while.

[Silent Night]

Try changing the glow plug.

[jerseyevo]

set the hi-speed needle 3 turns out from closed with a new glowplug.

[josh222]

someimes you have to leave the ignitor on sometimes

[Swift_Tik]

i have the needle turned three turns but when it says three turns, I am not sure if its end where you started at three times or if its considered two turns if you end where you started at.

*EDIT: also how long due the glow ignitors last for one charge. I don't wanna overcharge it everynight before i use my R/C. I have a Duratrax Rapid Heat starter if it matters.

[jerseyevo]

i have the needle turned three turns but when it says three turns, I am not sure if its end where you started at three times or if its considered two turns if you end where you started at.

*EDIT: also how long due the glow ignitors last for one charge. I don't wanna overcharge it everynight before i use my R/C. I have a Duratrax Rapid Heat starter if it matters.
think of the top of the hispeed needle housing as a clock,12 to 12 is 1 turn.
on my screwdriver i have 1 side painted red so i know i made 1 complete turn.
just connect the glowplug to the ignitor and make sure its glows a brite orange.

[delphidude]

http://stores.evolutionhobbies.com/Detail.bok?no=17 just ordered this engine hopefully it will be good

[Hockeekidd98]

What would be the best *drop in* (meaning all i have to do is take the old one out and put in the new one) engine... looking for a .12 or .18, preferably an os engine.. under 150...

[jerseyevo]

What would be the best *drop in* (meaning all i have to do is take the old one out and put in the new one) engine... looking for a .12 or .18, preferably an os engine.. under 150...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP8&P=0

[delphidude]

that evo engine i bough is soposed to be one of the best out there and it has a great price.

[Turbo B]

problem.. i was testing my car today and when im drivin the car it goes in to 2nd gear but when it shifts it already @ redline in 1st gear and it doesnt sound like the rpms drop @ all.. when i had my 12. motor he shifted jus fine now with the 18.. i dont think its doing anything..so what could be wrong??

[trw]

you need to lower your shift point if its not shifting at all.

but i wouldnt think it would need to be lowered cause the 18 has a whole lot more power, if anything it should be shifting to soon rather then too late or not at all

my guess is your tranny simply is missing its shifts (im assuming you still have the stock tranny) the stock tranny is famous for not shifting when its suppose to cause it has a mind of its own, try adjusting your shift point first and see what happens, if it still deosnt shift then you may need to get a different tranny, or live with it shifting "sometimes"

[josh222]

Your Rs4 3 has a lot more power now it will pull throught the power band quicker. you should lower the shift point abit and get the gold pinions to raise the top speed, you have more then enough hp and torque to do it

[Turbo B]

yes it is the stock tranny well it does shift but jus really late.. and when it does it shift it doesnt it drops the rpm by like only 200-300 rpms..i also added the black spring in the tranny.. i hope i dont have to buy a new tranny

[josh222]

you don't need a new tranny just readjust the 2-speed screw, loosen it a bit and go with the bigger Gold pinions

[trw]

josh, the gold pinions are smaller and add acceleration, not top speed

[jerseyevo]

yes,red/top speed-gold/acceleration or bottom end.

[josh222]

aren't they they the 23th ones or was it the red ones

[Turbo B]

iight well ill try to reset the tranny 2mw.. i have the red ponion gears.. i feel with the 18 i already have eunff low end power.. so witht he red ponion gears i will have alil betta up top rite..or should i get the gold 1's?

[josh222]

no stick with your reds

[josh222]

I just ordered the .12R XS :D from rc boyz. but i didn't like there 18.50 flat rate to Canada but it said if it is a light item they will lower the shipping cost so i think they will drop it atleast 8.50 because the engine only weighs about 110grams

[josh222]

i am hoping it will be here monday or tuesday :)

[delphidude]

tight i just ordered my evo engine

[Hockeekidd98]

I posted this some where else, but i'm gonna post it here too...

Bought a brand new THS exhaust for my rs4 3... Maybe I'm just rc car illiterate , or I'm cursed...


check it out...

http://home.comcast.net/~hockeekidd98/P1010016.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~hockeekidd98/P1010018.JPG

or did I some how not install it right, I haven't bent the wire to secure the pipe yet, because the pipe doesn't fit...

The tire doesn't rub as of now, but when those tires start to spin it will... What shouild I do?

[trw]

HPI includes longer hangers if you install aftermarket exhaust, look around for them if you put them somewhere.

[Hockeekidd98]

I think you're talking about joining the exhaust to the car..

I'm worried about the tires rubbing against the new exhaust...

[trw]

yes I was lol, thought that was your problem.

i dont think theres a way to fix that. since i have a digital radio in my Rs4 i just made the radius not so wide.

[Hockeekidd98]

I'm a happy camper my new GPM racing chasis came today... It's sweet.(best chasis out there for the rs4)

It's way better then the one they sell on rcboyz....

Plus i got my stanless steel screw kit too, i'm gonna install this new chasis, and go from there.

[Hockeekidd98]

first is the old chasis, second new with engine, third, is all installed...

It only took 5 minutes to install...

http://home.comcast.net/~hockeekidd98/P1010019.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~hockeekidd98/P1010020.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~hockeekidd98/P1010023.JPG

[Silent Night]

I have that same exact chassis. The only thing is that I found out that it acutally is not the best. This is made from 6... T6 while the HPI racing chassis is made from 7... T7 aluminum which is stronger..(I don't remember the numbers..:() But I guess for the price, you can't beat it.

[Viper17]

Thats A good looking chasis. Im thinking of hetting the HPI super chasis and these shock towers for my rs4 3 are they any good or should I stick with palstic http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXDHK7&P=K

[Hockeekidd98]

The one you linked is better, it has more holes which means you can finetune your suspension.

Plus it's carbon fiber.

[Viper17]

So I would be better off getting the CF ones. I don't want them to break easy and have to spend three times as much for them as the plastic ones. Thanks.

[Hockeekidd98]

Wait didyou break the plastic one before???

If so how??? lol

[Viper17]

Well I did break a plastic one but it wasn't the parts fault. I was running on bad tire coming around a turn and my car slid into my foot pretty hard and the back tower snapped were the shock mounts.

[Viper17]

Hey if anyone is interested here are some links to parts I would hope to get for my RS4 3
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXGGP6&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXM759&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXDHK8&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXDHK7&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXEKJ8&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXBTB4&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXCPX4&P=K
Plenty more too!! :D

[Hockeekidd98]

Do your selve a favor and buy the carbon fiber upperdeck from rcboyz it's 20 bucks and it's better then the HPI one.

Get the GPM racing chasis you can get them for 40 bucks buy it now on ebay, even cheaper some times. It's a better chasis then the one you linked to.

Here's the links
http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&clist=0,12707&pi_id=122581
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44015&item=5946058588&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

[Viper17]

I wish I could get the upper deck from rcboyz but i need a credit card which I don't have and my parents won't let use theres because they don't have much credit and I also don't like ebay much. mabey I could get my LHS to get the upperdeck for that price. Thanks

[trw]

no, i think the HPI chassis is stronger then the GPM one

and the HPI chassis has more adjustment for the exhaust hanger

[Hockeekidd98]

Yeah but with the gpm one you don't have to adjust gear mesh.

[josh222]

it's just gear mesh, don't be that lazy

[Hockeekidd98]

it's just gear mesh, don't be that lazy


yeah, but you'll never strip gears.

[josh222]

if you set it up right that won't happen, most after market chassi are much better than the stocker, the stocker is made from 2.5mm 6065 T6 alumium

[CrankrodsKid]

Hey, I broke my front, right A-Arm, would it be worth it to upgrade to aluminum?

[Jetskiboy77]

No stay with a plastic one for a tourer car, chances are if you broke the plastic one you would have bent the aluminum one, and then thats like triple the price and you cant really bend aluminum back because it gets much weaker. And I love aluminum parts, but I wouldnt get aluminum arms for a tourer. Howd you break it anyway? I just got the carbon graphite arms that I need to install and run when it gets nice out again.

[josh222]

ya if you break the plastic ones you will most likey bend the aluminum one, if you crash a lot boil them first

[CrankrodsKid]

It wasent me, my friend was running the car in the street when he hit a reflector on the road, and it flipped a couple times, breaking the A-arm, i glued it together untill I can get up to the hobby shop.

Jetskiboy77 - What about the carbon graphite arms?

[delphidude]

just get plastic ones

[richkay228]

Hey if anyone is interested here are some links to parts I would hope to get for my RS4 3
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXGGP6&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXM759&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXDHK8&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXDHK7&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXEKJ8&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXBTB4&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXCPX4&P=K
Plenty more too!! :D

One tip,
If you race on a CLEAN pebble free surface, than the "bling, bling" race chassis is fine, but if you bash in streets and parking lots don't even think about those swiss cheese chassis, they are pebble sucking vacuumes. run the stock chassis, with an aftermarket upper deck, and duct tape the remaining chassis holes. I ruined 2 sets of pinions, and about 4 spurs until I smartened up.
Rich

[delphidude]

don't get a one piece pipe. if you dent the pipe then you have to buy the whole set again.

i like the duratrax ( forgot wich modle its for) header because its port matched.
OS is not coming out with some really nice right side stinger pipes

[jerseyevo]

i agree 100% with you both.

[delphidude]

also get the thunder tiger evo 12 over the os 18. the os has tons of power but in the wrong place.

[rs4lola]

also get the thunder tiger evo 12 over the os 18. the os has tons of power but in the wrong place.can you please explain "in the wrong place"?? Just curious as I replave my .18 cvr with and rr12l3 .12 and the acceleration is way faster with the .12 but i think with higher gears the .18 would give a higher top speed. Once it shifted to second, the .18 would accelerate like real fast...Hope to get the .18tz spring time to see how fast i can make small block rs4-3ss move...

[josh222]

I am still waiting on the XS, RCBoyZ hasen't even processed my order :mad:

[delphidude]

can you please explain "in the wrong place"?? Just curious as I replave my .18 cvr with and rr12l3 .12 and the acceleration is way faster with the .12 but i think with higher gears the .18 would give a higher top speed. Once it shifted to second, the .18 would accelerate like real fast...Hope to get the .18tz spring time to see how fast i can make small block rs4-3ss move...


the specs for that engine said it only revs to 29k, though if it work good than its a good deal for $92.

[Hockeekidd98]

I am still waiting on the XS, RCBoyZ hasen't even processed my order :mad:


Odd, last time I orderd from them they had shipped my order same day and i got it the next day...

[trw]

the specs for that engine said it only revs to 29k, though if it work good than its a good deal for $92.

dont pay attention to what the specs on towers say, the engine actually revs higher, and has 1.6hp rather then towers 1.3 rating.

[josh222]

it has been 7 days so far nothing has happened, i think it is because of the christmass holiday and they are now back logged.


The OS CVR18 has 1.6hp and revved up to 39,000rpm's in a heavy Tmaxx

[richkay228]

also get the thunder tiger evo 12 over the os 18. the os has tons of power but in the wrong place.

Dude,
What the heck are you talking about??? Are you saying a .12 is going to make more usable power than a .18??!! You've got your facts completely backwards. ALL .12's lack torque. Torque is what gets a car moving. Torque is what makes a car fun. All .12's are good for is screaming top end hp. They are well suited for on road competition by pro level racers who can keep those .12 engines in their narrow 35,000+ rpm powerbands. 18's make broad usable torque, and will SPANK any .12 in a average dragrace.

[Hockeekidd98]

check it out, carbon fiber bumper plate.
http://home.comcast.net/~hockeekidd98/P1010035.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~hockeekidd98/P1010036.JPG

[Viper17]

Good point about the chasis. I only bash with my car so I'll scratch out the super chasis. Is there any better than stock chasis that dont' have as many openings. Also the O.S. motor is good and cheap(money is tight) so I'm sticking with that. What other pipes are good for that motor. I remember hearing something about CVEC pipes that work good on the rs4 3(I think thats the name) Hockeekid nice cf bimber palte were'd you get it? Thanks

[trw]

also consider the Rd Logics one peice kit for the rs4 3

http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=61235S&type=store

runs really well with the OS 18.

and I noticed the engine you suggested on the previous page has a slide valve carburetor, make sure your linkage is setup for slide valve carbs before ordering that, otherwise use rotary.

[josh222]

If you are worried about scratching the chassi get this...

AE Chassi Protecter (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2553&P=7)

[Hockeekidd98]

Ebay, there discontinued and very rare.

[josh222]

I don't think they would be to hard to make

[rs4lola]

Dude,
What the heck are you talking about??? Are you saying a .12 is going to make more usable power than a .18??!! You've got your facts completely backwards. ALL .12's lack torque. Torque is what gets a car moving. Torque is what makes a car fun. All .12's are good for is screaming top end hp. They are well suited for on road competition by pro level racers who can keep those .12 engines in their narrow 35,000+ rpm powerbands. 18's make broad usable torque, and will SPANK any .12 in a average dragrace.
I think I have some idea what he is talking about as I have both a high end "italian" racing .12 and an OS .18 cvr. The .18 will spank the .12 ONCE it gets over 35-40 mph but under that the .12 is all over it. A racing .12 has fantastic acceleration for low to medium speeds which is at least 85% of an average track and especially for parking lot racing. Basically, the .18 os is ballistic in second gear!!!Most high-end racing .12 would beat a .18 around a track with average mph under 35 mph. The .18 would only beat it down a long strait-away IF the the .12 is NOT geared for top speed. Definitely for drag racing size is king but for racing around a track piston speed is king and the .12 will generally be faster around a track than a .18 depending on gearing. Now the .18tz is quite a beast and I am looking forward to buying one in springtime. Drag racing and track racing are two completely different forms of racing and blank statements about either make no sense...be specific about what YOU run if want to be right....

[Viper17]

Im basicly starting from scratch with my rs4 so the linkage wont be a problem. Im gonna get the super chasis any way, I don't run my car alot because places to run it are limited. Ill just pick up a pack of those chasis protectors. I'll going to have an updated list soon of what I plan to get if your interested. Thanks

[Deznuts05]

I can't for the life of me find what the bearing sizes are for the steering... I know it was posted here... but I can't find it any help?

[Deznuts05]

Yes I replace the steering bushings with 4x8 ball bearings.

The real part to place this car in the winners circle (not there yet) is the differentials. The ball diffs are crap!!!

Sweet I found it but... rs4lola I don't have ball diffs but gear diffs.... any reconmendation for which diff lube I should use? I was thinking getting Ofna's 1k in the front and 5 or 7k diff lock in the rear... what do you think or should I have it the other way around... from racing my TC3 I like understeer rather than oversteer... what could I do to set that up? also since I have to race with rubber (no foams) any ideas on tires?

thanks!
rudy

[trw]

*edit* nvm

[josh222]

HPI Pro Compund tires are very sticky and with a hard tire insert they will do good :)

[Jetskiboy77]

It wasent me, my friend was running the car in the street when he hit a reflector on the road, and it flipped a couple times, breaking the A-arm, i glued it together untill I can get up to the hobby shop.

Jetskiboy77 - What about the carbon graphite arms?

That might take a while. I have a lot of other little parts to install also, but I dont have time to tear down the entire car right now because of school and friends. I will get there eventually though. They look awesome, there very rigid and almost weightless.

[josh222]

interesting.

well 8 days and counting wait for RCBoyZ to process my order :mad:

[Deznuts05]

*edit* nvm

why did you say nvm? this is what I got from my email...

"here is what your looking for :)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000431073&I=LXM465&P=K "

is this wrong?

[Viper17]

Chasis- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXBTB4&P=K
Engine- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXGGP6&P=K
Clutch- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXLW03&P=K
Flywheel- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXM759&P=K
Pipe- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXCPX4&P=K
Upper Deck- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXEKJ8&P=K
Wheels- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXM945&P=K
Tires- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXM980&P=K
Foam Insterts- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXN010&P=K
Body- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXSE78&P=K
Rear Tower- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXDHK8&P=K
Front Tower- http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000523717&I=LXDHK7&P=K
Thats most of it beside some small stuff. Are those foam inserts any good for bashing. Thanks

[trw]

no, in your previous post u said u found it lol so i figured hes already found it.

[Deznuts05]

well the ones you sent me a link to is a diffrent size... I think rs4lola said 4x8... and you have 5x8x2.5? or something which ones do you have?

[trw]

well i purchased the hotbodies aluminum steering assembly, in the description it siad it used 4 5x8x2.5mm bushings, so i found the bearings of the same size.

[Deznuts05]

hum.... I know this is a bit... but could you see if the 5x8x2.5 are the same as the plastic bushings??

[jerseyevo]

hum.... I know this is a bit... but could you see if the 5x8x2.5 are the same as the plastic bushings??
yes they are the same.

[Deznuts05]

sweet! thx!

[josh222]

Well i got an email back from RCBoyZ, they have been having Computer problems :( so they said it will be shipped sone :) and they threw in priority air mail in no extra charge :D

[delphidude]

evolution hobbies is backed up i will have to wait till monday

[delphidude]

anyone seen the stage d drift kit? basicly turns the rs4 3 into a tc3

[oachalon]

Alright i have a question for all of you. What would i need to put my fantom fr18 in my rs4 3 ss. The fr18 is rear exhaust and slide carb. I know that using the stock engine mounts the motor doesnt line up with the gears. I also know that the stock flywheel does not fit on the fantom fr18 because i have tried it. Has anyone tried that engine in this car because i have the engine just laying around.

[oachalon]

I also have a rc10gt pipe laying around and i was wondering if i used this on my .12r ss engine would it make a difference. Like more low end torque. The top speed is good on that motor i just need more torque. Has anyone had any problems with the lsn that if u start to turn it in more that it restricts the carb from going to closed to open throttle that its not smooth and it likes to get stuck. Then if i turn it counterclockwise again and basically bring it back to stock settings its all smooth again. What im basically saying is that if i turn the lsn clockwise from the stock setting the carb is not smooth anymore and it seems that the lsn is not letting it go from closed to open. I think that might be my problem for the no low end torque. I cant lean the lsn a little more so i have a very sluggish acceleration from a stand still. That is why i love slide carbs i dont have these kinda problems.

[josh222]

it is a hasle to get the new fantoms in our cars, youi need new flywheel, engine mounts,and a RE manifold

[rs4lola]

anyone seen the stage d drift kit? basicly turns the rs4 3 into a tc3no..but it looks far from a tc3. The only similarity is the engine is on the same side as the tc3. The engine is located in the middle of the chassis with the fuel tank behind the engine. The air still points forward instead of backwards like the ntc3. The exhaust manifold maybe similar to the ntc3 aswell but the rest looks nothing like the ntc3.

[rs4lola]

yes they are the same.The plastic bushings that come standard with the rs4-3ss are 4x8x2.5mm in size. The ball bearings I use for the standard steering are 4x8x2.5. The bearings that come with the aluminum steering are slightly bigger 5x8x2.5mm

[Deznuts05]

anyone seen the stage d drift kit? basicly turns the rs4 3 into a tc3

wow this sounds really intresting... go any pics? info? and how about if I don't want to drift with the kit but race competivitly... intresting

[Deznuts05]

The plastic bushings that come standard with the rs4-3ss are 4x8x2.5mm in size. The ball bearings I use for the standard steering are 4x8x2.5. The bearings that come with the aluminum steering are slightly bigger 5x8x2.5mm

Ok, is the ss the same as the RTR3 which was out before the SS or EVO.... any ideas?

[rs4lola]

I have just been over to the hpi-japan website looking at the stage d kit for the nitro rs4-3 and was thinking this could make a good parking lot type racer aswell (my specialty so far). With the engine moved to the middle of the chassis, the weight distribution must be closer to 50/50. Running a solid axle up front (hpi makes one for rs4-3 now) and a one-way diff in the rear, acceleration out of corners would be awsome and we would still have 2 wheel braking up front. With more weight transfer to front, the car should be easier to turn aswell (controllable drift?!?). Any thoughts or do you think I am nuts!!!

[Deznuts05]

well with all that talk... I hope its controlable... I just fixed my TC3 so that it wouldn't drift... christ that was a pain...

[delphidude]

i am thinking i am ordering one as soon as it hits state side

[Turbo B]

id like the web site for the stage d kit if anyone can get it

[Turbo B]

damn the forums aa dead id like the link so i can see or read about the stage d kit

[Silent Night]

Ok, is the ss the same as the RTR3 which was out before the SS or EVO.... any ideas?

Yup, they are all the same cars. The differences are that the RTR3 came with a .15fe, a 1-speed, and was rtr, the ss came with a .12ss ( i think), 2-speed, and you need to buy a radio and build it yourself. The EVO comes with a T-15, 2 speed and was ready to run.

[Hockeekidd98]

id like the web site for the stage d kit if anyone can get it

Same here.

I'm not converting mine, but i still wanna see it...

[Deznuts05]

thanks Silent Night!

[Turbo B]

and im stillll waitin for the link sum1

[Hockeekidd98]

As of right now my brakes suck. What's the best upgrade for the brakes?

[Jetskiboy77]

This is my personal favorite. I did it to my NMT and my RS4 3 and it works really good.

Kedar's Metal Disk Brake Conversion (http://kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html#metal)

[Silent Night]

Yeah, I second that. I haven't had enough money to try that out yet, but once I get the funds I'll need it to stop my tz. :D

[Hockeekidd98]

Any bolt on upgrades?

[Jetskiboy77]

That requires very, very little work and it is well worth it. All there is to do is glue and drill some holes.

[Zoo Tv]

Anyone heard much about the RS4 3 18SS with either Ford GT or Lamborghini body? Tower has it for $319 and is the HPI (who makes it???) .18 engine. Hard to find specs though..... :confused:

[Hockeekidd98]

Hpi...

[josh222]

.18 SS hence the name SS like the original SS. This one will accl the fastest and high the highest top speed but with the purple gear like the original SS the orig will be the fastest due to the fact that the .18 SS is a slow rever and over rated a lot

[rs4lola]

Any bolt on upgrades?
I recommend using the Kyosho mp6 brake pads aswell. It took me a while to install but was well worth it. Get the optional extra hard brake pads from Kyosho instead of the pads that come with the mp6 kit. Glue the pads with jb weld and leave overnite. make sure breake pads are centered and as low as possible on the brake plates. I adjusted the brake plates using red dogbone/shock shaft washers with the thin red diff washers used between the brake pads. The distance between the pads is ever so slightly bigger than the thickness of the steel disk. This way, slighest turn of brake cam will haul the brakes real tight. Just adjust brake response with fuel tubing and/or brake epa on radio...a pain in the ass but these brakes are used for stopping 8 pound plus comp buggy!!!

[rs4lola]

.18 SS hence the name SS like the original SS. This one will accl the fastest and high the highest top speed but with the purple gear like the original SS the orig will be the fastest due to the fact that the .18 SS is a slow rever and over rated a lot
I would find it very hard to believe that the .12ss with ANY gear combo would be faster than the .18ss. Acceleration in first gear maybe close but the .18ss would whip the .12ss in second gear. Even if the 1.5hp figure is exaggerated, the .18 has a LOT more torque and lots of torque can give you top speed and acceleration IF geared correctly. From the fwe pictures that I have seen of the .18ss, hpi seems to have changed the gearing to the taller red pinions( 19/23) as compared to the .12ss purple pinions( 18.22)
Just upgrade to an OS .18tz and you WILL be the fastest on you block!!!

[josh222]

It is just the fact that the .12R has much more revs than the 18ss. my .12R SS screamed high for a stocker in a big lot :) well i am probaly gona cancel my RCboyZ order 2 weeks and it hasen't even been processed. I just might get a CVR 18

[rs4lola]

It is just the fact that the .12R has much more revs than the 18ss. my .12R SS screamed high for a stocker in a big lot :) well i am probaly gona cancel my RCboyZ order 2 weeks and it hasen't even been processed. I just might get a CVR 18I have run my rs4-3ss with the .12r ss, OS .18 cvr and NovaRossi .12 rr12l3. The fastest acceration was with the rr12l3 with the highest top speed going to the .18cvr. Both of these engine blew away the .12r ss. If you gear a .18 engine properly (tallest gear possible), the torque of the engine will let it accelerate faster than a .12r ss and have a higher top speed. Have you run a rs4-3ss with the .18ss engine??
Have you run a rs4-3ss with a racing .12 engine?? Believe me., I too made my .12r ss scream to high revs but once I put in the .18 cvr it was way faster. I raced some other rc cars and even though I could not shift into second gear, the .18 cvr would beat any other car down the short strait.
Please run these engines yourself before you start praising or bashing other engines. Gearing, needle settings, carb size, nitro %, tuned pipe length, etc all contribute to making engine faster (or slower). The 2 engines that I bought to replace the .12r ss are very good and I highly recommend them both. The OS .18cvr for bashing and the NovaRossi rr12l3 for short parking lot type club racing...

[chevy_94]

I was wantin to know what would i have to buy if i bought this kit..i had a rs4 3 rtr...and it was a pretty decent on-road...and that was my first r/c car ever...i was just wantin to know of it came with electronics and a body<<<i heard it didn't thats why i asked...

[josh222]

the TYPE SS with the .12( get the .12 track legal) need a radio, it has every thing else comes.


Well my XS is on the way :)

[Jetskiboy77]

Well my XS is on the way :)

Yay! :)

You will need the electronics, such as 2 servos and a Rx and a Tx, and maybe a failsafe. You will also need fuel of your choice (or whatever you can get from your lhs) a glow plug ingintor, and maybe some extra plugs. I also recommend that instead of using AA's, you get the rechargable pack-more upfront cost (not too expensive though) but well worth it later on.

[Deznuts05]

well I'm giving the FE motor one more chance... plus I got her for $50 beans which I think was Dirt Cheep (factory Sealed too)... Anyways... what are the break-in heat ranges that I'm looking for???

I know I'm looking for trouble now... but its worth a shot...

To recap: FE motor Break-in Heat Range for the 1st and 2nd tanks of nitro, then the heat range for 3-4, then all the way up to the 10th tank by which HPI says the FE motor should finally be broken in by that tank... Personally, I never got 10 tanks out of my 1st FE motor so... I'm goin by the books and by what the MASS'es say... I also got myself a handy infered Temp guage that's pretty acurite anyways... any help thanks!

[Hockeekidd98]

Yey or ney?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5947186633&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT

[jerseyevo]

you must have $ burning a hole in your pocket..lol

[josh222]

my XS should be here any day now :D It should have some Zoom Zoom in it :D

[Hockeekidd98]

Yeah.... I do...

I just got a lower real aluminm bulkhead, and some brake calipers.

gonna get...
front bulkhead, aluminum c hubs, front and rear carbon fiber shock towers, rear alumium hubs.

pretty much then every thing will either be carbon fiber or aluminum...And that's how i waste my money.

[Jetskiboy77]

Thats how a lot of us waste money. :) I know thats how I did, Aluminum and Carbon Graphite are just so beautiful together.

[Zoo Tv]

You 2 are talking about which model again? EVO or SS?

[jerseyevo]

i know that on all 5 of my 1/10 cars i only spent so much for needed upgrades than i stop before they become money pits,
ill just buy a higher end 1/10 that doesnt need hopups or upgrading.
so now i only run my 1/8 on road cars.

[josh222]

I find this funny, people condider the RS4 3 a basher but when you get it to hook up really good and beat every one else they think your cheating or something :D

[jerseyevo]

like my point is why buy a $300 car then sink another $300 into it to beat everyone.
ill just go out and buy a serpent,mugen,shumacher or whatever.
plus driving skills and knowledge are the main factor regardless what u got under that lexan.
jmo.

[chevy_94]

yeah ill be getting that kit real soon...i have got a radio and two servos....but what receiver would be a good one...i have no clue about it...

[josh222]

What kind of radio do you have?

[Hockeekidd98]

I finally got to test the ths pipe... I must say it's awesome. Huge improvement over the cvec and stock. Low end and top end are ridiculous. If the car is standing still and I pinn it, it will pretty much burn out and get squirly. Definitely a great upgrade.

[josh222]

yes the plastic stocker is crap,

[Hockeekidd98]

next upgrade when i get money is turnbuckles.

[CrankrodsKid]

What all do i ned to put an O.S. .18 CV-RX (S) w/11J Rotary Carb in my RS4 3 Evo?????

[rs4lola]

like my point is why buy a $300 car then sink another $300 into it to beat everyone.
ill just go out and buy a serpent,mugen,shumacher or whatever.
plus driving skills and knowledge are the main factor regardless what u got under that lexan.
jmo.I think the real reason people like to upgrade their car is to make a personal statement more than anything else. I have spent at least over a G-note on my ss and I love it!!! Car goes like stink and the fact that I can beat other "pro" cars is great. More sense to buy "pro" car in first place??? Of Course...but this hobby makes no economic sense in the first place!!! If you want to place in top three...consistently against other good drivers, its going to cost you a lot of money, no matter which car you buy. How can you buy a top of the line racer without any spare parts!!! For me this is a cheap substitue for real car racing, not just a toy car for kids. If you think they are only toy cars...this hobby will get real expensive..real fast!!!

[josh222]

CrankRodKid you don't need any ting to get it in, it is a drop in if you get the threaded crank version

[jerseyevo]

anyone see the hpi video with the drift package?
it looks like the exaust is routed out the rear of the car.

[Hockeekidd98]

It pretty much is,

Any way here are the updated pics of my car.


http://home.comcast.net/~hockeekidd98/P1110022.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~hockeekidd98/P1110023.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~hockeekidd98/P1110024.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~hockeekidd98/P1110025.JPG

[Hockeekidd98]

more
http://home.comcast.net/~hockeekidd98/P1110026.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~hockeekidd98/P1110027.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~hockeekidd98/P1110028.JPG

[Hockeekidd98]

any way here are the pics of the stage d conversion

http://www.conceptiondesigns.net/staged/staged7.jpg
http://www.conceptiondesigns.net/staged/staged2.jpg
http://www.conceptiondesigns.net/staged/staged1.jpg
http://www.conceptiondesigns.net/staged/staged5.jpg

i like the cut windows.... i'm gonna do it on my skyline for more airflow.
http://www.conceptiondesigns.net/staged/staged6.jpg

[josh222]

looks good. I don't really like a lot of alumium my self adds to much weight, a guy i know aluminum out his SS and it is very heavy even with the CVr18 it is kinda slow it weighs dubble of mine

[Hockeekidd98]

I don't plan on add any more aluminum, maybe even get rid off some. Just more carbon fiber. I'm debting on what i want to replace with plastic.

Funny part is i think i'm getting rid of the new gear boxes... lol

[Zoo Tv]

where'd you get that kit and what does it involve? RWD only?

Tower don't seem to have it.

[Hockeekidd98]

i don't have it....It hasn't been released in the usa yet...

I'mdef getting rid of the aluminum gear boxes car is way to heavy.

[rs4lola]

i don't have it....It hasn't been released in the usa yet...

I'mdef getting rid of the aluminum gear boxes car is way to heavy.
good idea...the plastic gearboxes are pretty strong, very light and cheap
But...that stage d kit looks awsome!!! For drifting or just out an out racing, the mid-engine layout should increase the handling greatly. Hopefully it will be coming to USA/Canada real soon. Not really into drifting but this could be used for strait racing too. Maybe this is early version of rs4-4!!!

[KronicRacer]

hmm very interesting that stage d has a fifth body post.... must start to research this kit. that and the price ranges :eek:

[trw]

also look at the steering servo, looks as if you need a special short bodied one. *edit* nvm i looked back at first pic

also notice theres no roll bar to carry the car.

i dunno, the D-kit is gonna have to grow on me, I still like my RS4 3 alot, specially since ive already blown it out and put tons of money into it, but for the most part i dont race mine much lol.

I would imagine there would be a slight acceleration loss due to more weight in the front as well.

although i imagine now the RS4 3 with D-kit could out handle any other car on the market.

[Zoo Tv]

Guys, quick question I need help with. What size battery pack will fit into a stock RS4 3? Awaiting delivery from Tower but want to get the right size. (Ie, hump of flat stick type cell receiver pack?)

Thanks,

[rs4lola]

...I would imagine there would be a slight acceleration loss due to more weight in the front as well.

..although i imagine now the RS4 3 with D-kit could out handle any other car on the market.
On the HPI jp web-site, they are offering a solid axle for the rs4-3 cars and installed in front or rear,will increase
acceleration tremendously...
Yes, I too think this car should be outstanding in the handling department because of the mid-engine layout and the more balanced weight distribution. When this kit comes, I hope to convert my ss with this kit to make into an even better parking lot racer. In my eyes anyway and probably HPI, this kit is NOT just for drifting...

[KronicRacer]

stage d is the drift package from hpi. you are right though this new package has great potential for racing with its new balance. if rear traction is an issue it can be corrected with a spoiler and or a shock setup.

[josh222]

My engine finaly came in :D wow it is sweet. I am amazed by the quality and the compression :eek: i can bearly turn the dam thing over with my whole hand :D good thing i got a 1/8th box with a lawn mower battery :)

[Hockeekidd98]

My engine finaly came in :D wow it is sweet. I am amazed by the quality and the compression :eek: i can bearly turn the dam thing over with my whole hand :D good thing i got a 1/8th box with a lawn mower battery :)


link me to where you got it, thanks.

[CrankrodsKid]

I just installed my O.S .18 and i was wondering what pipes (all you guys that have this engine) run, and is the stocker ok to use.... I am thinking about getting this Associated Muffler RPM Tuned Side Exhaust for it, it sounds like a good deal for the 18 bucks......

[Jetskiboy77]

On the HPI jp web-site, they are offering a solid axle for the rs4-3 cars and installed in front or rear,will increase
acceleration tremendously......

Lola, can you show me a link to this?

[Hockeekidd98]

the difference between the plastic and aluminum gearboxes is a total of 1.2 ounces...

Is it worth it?

[rs4lola]

the difference between the plastic and aluminum gearboxes is a total of 1.2 ounces...

Is it worth it? Well average servo weighs between 1.5-2.0 ounces. So..yeah it is worth it NOT to use the alum gearboxes if you want you car to be as light as possible...

[Jetskiboy77]

I agree with lola, I left my diff cases stock to save weight. I have a small amount of aluminum and the rest is graphite or carbon fiber.

[Zoo Tv]

Guys, quick question I need help with. What size battery pack will fit into a stock RS4 3? Awaiting delivery from Tower but want to get the right size. (Ie, hump of flat stick type cell receiver pack?)

Thanks,

Aswell as this, who makes wider rims for the RS4 3 to fit an SS kit?

[rs4lola]

Lola, can you show me a link to this?
1. goto hpi-jp website
2. click on first item at top left menu
3. click on link that says "11/25 Stage D..."
4. click on middle link under picture of rs4 3 chassis that says nitro3 option parts
the page should noew display all the option parts for the nitro 3 with pictures
page down until you see the stage d kit
below it is the solid axle option part.
sorry for all the instructions but I could not create a link...

[rs4lola]

stage d is the drift package from hpi. you are right though this new package has great potential for racing with its new balance. if rear traction is an issue it can be corrected with a spoiler and or a shock setup.Totally agree. Solid axle up front should increase acceleration a whole bunch with softer springs in rear. Then i would adjust the rear roll center depending how much oversteer I wanted. Steering should be outstanding with more weight on front tires. May understeer too much so adding front sway bar would cure that. Yes more handling possibilties but overall, should be much faster to drive around the track if weight distibution is closer to 50/50.

[rs4lola]

has anyone tried one-way diff in rear?? Would car be harder to control? I figure you would still have front wheel braking with better acceleration when you hammer it but I don't know how it would handle in the corners off-power. This would be for short, technical type parking lot racing not flat out speed. Any thoughts...

[Jetskiboy77]

If you mean putting the one way for the front in the place of the rear diff, you would mame the car FWD but still have front and rear brakes. Maybe im missing something and theres a rear diff that I dont know about. And thanks for the directions to the solid axle.

[josh222]

Well i have the new engine in and the manifold on and i even got ball bearings for the steering all i need now is a turnbuckle and 2 caputered ends for the center link on the steering :)

[Silent Night]

If you mean putting the one way for the front in the place of the rear diff, you would mame the car FWD but still have front and rear brakes. Maybe im missing something and theres a rear diff that I dont know about. And thanks for the directions to the solid axle.

Na, the car would still be AWD but won't have breakes in the rear. Unless you put it in backwards which i dont think you can do.

[Jetskiboy77]

It would be FWD, I just took my front one way and put it where the rear diff would be and spun it in the same direction that the drivetrain goes, and the diff just free spins, meaning it would be FWD.

[Jetskiboy77]

Solid Axle (http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/parts/w_hb62519_01.jpg) Im pretty sure this is it for anyone that couldnt find it.

[rs4lola]

Solid Axle (http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/parts/w_hb62519_01.jpg) Im pretty sure this is it for anyone that couldnt find it.This is NOT the solid axle. It is the HotBodies Heavy Duty Front One-Way Diff. I know because I have one... I realize now that only if you could install the one-way reverse/backwards into the rear gearbox could you have AWD with 2 wheel front braking. My bag...The solid axle looks like the R40 solid axle just smaller to fit into that smaller rs4-3 diff case...

[RCDEMON]

i was wandering, what is the difference between the rs4 3 rtr and the rs4 3 evo,and if i can converted the rtr to a evo.

a noobie to this forums, anything would help

[Jetskiboy77]

This is NOT the solid axle. It is the HotBodies Heavy Duty Front One-Way Diff. I know because I have one... I realize now that only if you could install the one-way reverse/backwards into the rear gearbox could you have AWD with 2 wheel front braking. My bag...The solid axle looks like the R40 solid axle just smaller to fit into that smaller rs4-3 diff case...

My bad my one way looks a lot different from that one, I thought it looked like a one way but I cant read Japanese too well :p But I was right about the FWD thing with the one way in the rear.

[josh222]

RC demaon the only difference is the engine and the 2-speed

[josh222]

just get the 2-speed and save for a new engine

[Deznuts05]

Any word on what temp I should run my FE?

[RCDEMON]

Thank josh222,

[josh222]

Deznut the general temp range is about 200-280F, I like to try and keep it in the 220-260 F range, there should be smoke under hard accl

[Jetskiboy77]

I dont think this was posted already. This is a heads up for all you people who are looking to buy the Stage D Kit. Tower is finally mentioning it.

Stage D (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJVY1&P=0)

[josh222]

it is kinda pricy and you can't use RE engine with it :mad:

[rs4lola]

it is kinda pricy and you can't use RE engine with it :mad:
I think you can use any re pipe that fits an NTC3

[Swift_Tik]

My motor mount screws on my car keep coming loose which results in the pinion and spur gears to slightly strip. Is there any screw that I can buy that will hold better than the stock motor mount screws? The guy at my LHS said that the Traxxass flat-hex screws will work and will hold better. Any help is appreciated.

[Jetskiboy77]

Try some Thread Lock. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTX54&P=0)

[josh222]

well i finish my steering upgrade for now, i put ball bearings in it and replaced the center link with a turnbuckle :)

[Jetskiboy77]

Nice Josh, it really helps the steering a lot.

[trw]

woo, its been so long since ive touched my RS4 3, been busy with the TNX lately.

im still freaking waiting on that aluminum steering assembly from towers, ordered it in november and wont be in till mid february, like it takes that long to ship stuff from china to cali, then to illinois then to my house here in texas LOL.

then i need a new receiver for it, and some more springs for my RDL exhaust and i can race it again.