Associated RC10GT Forum v5.0

[1tuffRC10]

Nopulse, yes it will fly but keep in mind that more speed = more damage.

Wallis racing, thanks. Wasn't sure seeing how you are from the other side of the world. LOL

tjtracer, I don't have a spare but you could try any kind of pipe that would fit.

Rain here again so no race.

[trxstr1961]

man, it snowed 6" here! Suppose to get more! :rolleyes:

[RushMan86]

hey guys i own a nitro rush right now and its completly decked out w/nothing left to do to it....so new project. And I have in mind the RC10GT. I have scanned over the 250+ pages reading wat people have to say. I am getting this truck in a trade and i am not sure wat style chassis it is or wat hop ups are on it. But say its the newer chassis design(not tub). Or think of it as a brand new. What are the first things i should buy? I am definitly not new to Nitro Stadium Trucks. But I am very new to this truck. So any advice in tuning, set up, hop-ups or generally any info is appreciated. Thanks


Mike

[RCFAN]

well my day has been up and down! to day first thing i get up drive hour half to get one part so when my gt get's here i will have all the stuff i need to get it running i get home from not so lhs and my stuff is here(woooooohoooooo) so i open it up and check it out. all look's to be there so i go to my rc room in the basement to put her together i get all the way to hooking up the throttle linkage well i some how and i have no clue how but i break the card barrel. so i run and get online and can't find one anywhere just the whole carb and that is 74 bux. so then i go back to work on what i can do cut the body and glue the extra tire's (hole shot's) only to see that tower has sent me hole shot's for a buggy. so i just stopped. and i got mip 1/4 cvd's well the one's that are in the truck is smaller so do i need new rear hub carriers or just bearing's? for those that might want to know what i got mip cvd's mip 4n1 clutch mip light flywheel wasp 12 offroad mx-3 radio hitec servo hole shot's fuel bottle super brain charger durtrax rec pack trinty monster h/p fuel team build gt (red one)stock ae pipe glow starter with the meter dean's plug's and a few more thing's.

sorry for the long post i need some help and had to tell some one LOL

[bubbastump]

rcfan where do u live ? i have like 4 or 5 lhs within between 5 min to an hour and a half from me.

[BashCat]

I got a RTR Plus and I love it! Although I like off-road, I mostly can only run it on pavement. This is a fast damn truck!!! But it is not very maneuverable at any high speed.

Check my ideas:

1) I want to move the batteries to the front to help plant the tires down.
2) I want to flatten the front suspension so that the wheels don't have that extreme camber when you steer (and have more rubber on the road).
3) I want to modify the shocktowers so that the chasis drops to about 1/2" to 3/4" from the ground.

I'm thinking this stuff will really improve handling at high speed. I've already started some prototyping but it will take a while to finish my project.

Of course, I have some pro-line stryker 2s that would drop it even more already.:D

Has anybody else tried these mods?

[FatherSpeed]

Bashcat,

Ihaven't tried any of the mods you speak aboutbut on the lowering of the body, check out the Factory Works shock towers on E Bay. Factory Works has a set of RC10gt shock towers that lower are for oval racing, they lower the body quite a bit. You have to use a shorter shock like the TC3 with them. They also have a body that goes with this set-up. I was thinking of trying this but I'm afraid there wouldn't be enough shock travel for off roading.

[trxstr1961]

striker2's been there, tore those up within 2 hours, they dont have foam inserts, so.... get some road hawgs. as for the chassis, been there tried that, not a good idea. just zip tie 2 oz of weight to the front shock tower, that will be the best way to keep the front down

[eman88]

let me upload pics of a truck a guy offered to sell to me for 200

this is what is has
trinity picco non pull engine .12 new
trinity picco pull engine without crank and carb, run 1/2 gallon
novarossi cx12 - P/S is shot
it was an rtr, but was upgraded
it has

new gladiator tires
new bearings throughout
Team Associated rear carbon shocktower
GPM front alloy shock tower
GPM alloy arms, front and back
Jr AM python radio on 75mhz
GPM Racing Blue bearing steering bellcranks
Hammad Ghuman alloy 3 degree arm mounts
GPM alloy tanny brace
mip cvds
Hammad Ghuman rear bulks
front bulks

boca bearings in the tranny
Hammad Ghuman steel idler
Hammad Ghuman ti topshaft

let me get the pics up he gave me

http://eman88.netfirms.com/RC10Overall.jpg
http://eman88.netfirms.com/RC10Rear.jpg
http://eman88.netfirms.com/RC10Front.jpg





THis truck also has aluminium c-hubs
he said the tranny case is by R&D racing, which i thought only made parts for traxxas cars. the company that makes traxxas parts might be just RD racing. anyone know the R&D racing site?
the bulks are by GPM
would you guys pay 200?
i know most of you would give 150, but if i cant get it that low would you guys pay 200?

[geo8498]

I broke the connector rod on my stock AE.15 engine. The guy at the LHS said if I replace the rod, piston and sleeve, it should be okay. He said a new AE engine would be $89, and he showed me an OS 15 for $189. I considered getting a new engine, but it's not in my budget until the end of the month. So they're getting the parts and rebuilding the stock (cost $60). I've been pretty satisfied with the AE engine until I burned it up.

Here's what I'm wondering... Will the engine still be okay, or will it never be the same again? Should I consider getting a new engine anyway, even after the $60 for rebuilding? What would be a good engine to get to replace the AE.15? Is there a good engine for around $100-$150 that would be better?

[NoPulse]

If you have ran a few gallons through the motor, buy the new one. I assume that $89.00 is the price for trading it in for the new one.
just think for $29.00 more you can have a new motor & Carb!

good luck

[RCFAN]

i had the wasp 12 se good engine i think it was 150 with 1.25 bhp run real good it would pull the front wheel's when i wanted it too.

[chachi]

i was in the same spot you are a few weeks ago. i decided to just get a new engine. i went with a cv-r from tower ($91) and could not be more happy. i though the ae engine could run with the best but now that i have the cv-r i would never go back. it rules. you would have to get a starter box though. will also never use a pull start engine again....

[trxstr1961]

YES!! Project GT is almost finished!! since i got my 2nd NDS, my parts nds has went towards a gt i started awhile ago. noww all it needs is:

rear body mounts
dogbones
nose brace tubes
engine
electrics
:) its coming along quickly now, hope to get it finished by spring.


In other news, we got 4" more of the white stuff dumped on us tonight! total so far for 2 days:10" :rolleyes:

[DuckTape]

Who makes the highest quality, and bang for the buck .21 conversion kit for the RC10GT? Thanks alot, Travis

[bubbastump]

well 3 feet of snow i dont think r/c will work in snow
so much snow my 4x4 wont work in it .

duct tape i cant remember but you will break something or snap or thist if you go .21 with a gt , they do make a kit and 2.nd deck but i wouldnt recommend .
but i know you dont listen to me anyway

[Wallis Racing]

Duct tape-
bubba is right, a 21 will rip your car apart, even with a full RRP tranny, things like your CVD's/dogbones will bent and twist, you will break out drives and it will just be an annoyance. it is the torque of a 21 that kills your car. to be honest, you would be better off with something like a Rody modified X12T. the rody would have more RPM then any .21 you would dare put in the GT(40k+) and it will have about 1.7hp, which is enough to put the GT on its roof before it goes 2 feet, and thats with a 18t clutch bell!!!! so really, i say that the rody is actually better then a .21! if the GT was able to handle a half decent .21(like an OS RZ/RG) then i would say, go for it, but the only thing the GT would be able to handle is things like a hyper, and a rody modified X12T would have better RPM, and way more then enough HP, yet it wont hurt your drive train(you will need RRP gears though!).

so think about that first, before you go spend $500+ to turn your GT into a money pit!

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[DuckTape]

ok, my brother justr said that I should get a .21 conversion kit when I get it... Where do I buy that rody X12T modified? Also how much money is it? Thanks alot, Travis

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by eman88
let me upload pics of a truck a guy offered to sell to me for 200.......

eman isn't this the same post as a few days back? If you are not sure for whatever reason something is telling you to not buy it. We've all given you our opinions, so it's up to you now, go with your gut instinct. LIKE I SAID THOUGH, if you don't want it hook me up with this guy, I will gladly drop $200 on it.

[RCFAN]

kc10 could you post it on here so we all can see how to build some

[eman88]

Originally posted by rocknbil
eman isn't this the same post as a few days back? If you are not sure for whatever reason something is telling you to not buy it. We've all given you our opinions, so it's up to you now, go with your gut instinct. LIKE I SAID THOUGH, if you don't want it hook me up with this guy, I will gladly drop $200 on it.

i added this
THis truck also has aluminium c-hubs
he said the tranny case is by R&D racing, which i thought only made parts for traxxas cars. the company that makes traxxas parts might be just RD racing. anyone know the R&D racing site?
the bulks are by GPM
would you guys pay 200?
i know most of you would give 150, but if i cant get it that low would you guys pay 200?



i can get it for 185 shipped
i think i will do it

[bubbastump]

ok people I need everyone help.
Can everyone post thier known websites with info and parts for the gt?
Im trying to make a database for this racing season.
if everyone can give at least 1 site it would be greatly appreaciated.
any technical info is important also thanx



Bryan
Team MDRCRACING

[The King]

Originally posted by bubbastump
ok people I need everyone help.
Can everyone post thier known websites with info and parts for the gt?
Im trying to make a database for this racing season.
if everyone can give at least 1 site it would be greatly appreaciated.
any technical info is important also thanx



Bryan
Team MDRCRACING

Ok here is one for you to start out with. They make one awesome brake system:D http://www.rc10gthobby.com/index.htm

[offroadcrazy01]

My tire"s both roll the same way what the matter is my diff to tight somebody help

[BTE214]

im going to be getting a gt rtr for 15 bucks no engine stripped or missing screws anyway i was wondering why the gt rtr is not roar legal as stated by towerhttp://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRL65&P=7

[bubbastump]

thanks king i just got that from previous [page.


the rtr isnot roar lagel cause engine is a .15
roar wants .12 at least at the roar race here

[Wallis Racing]

Duck tape
The X12t Rody is an RB engine, so anywhere that sells RB engines. its around $450-500aus, so thats like? $200-250us?


anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[sosidge]

Originally posted by offroadcrazy01
My tire"s both roll the same way what the matter is my diff to tight somebody help

Well, with the brakes off, both wheels are likely to turn, because with the clutch disengaged there's no resistance in the transmission to make the differential action come into play.

With the brakes engaged, the wheels should move smoothly in opposite directions, without spipnning too freely.

To check the diff's tightness, hold the spur gear and one wheel - then try and turn the other wheel. It should take a decent amount of effort before anything slips - and it should be the spur that slips first (cos of the slipper clutch).

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by offroadcrazy01
My tire"s both roll the same way......

If sosidge's suggestions do not shed any light, chances are good that the transmission overheated and the balls are melted into the diff gear - an easy fix. My original GT I bought used, it had the same problem. Upon dissasembly, I found the balls melted into the diff gear, preventing them from rolling on the diff washers to create the diff action.

Why this happened: The diff itself was too loose, causing the balls to slip on the diff washers instead of roll. This caused friction, heat, and melted plastic. :D

After you figure it out, check the diff for tightness as sosidge said. If it's too loose it will melt the balls into the diff gear again.

[ross]

Originally posted by rocknbil
If sosidge's suggestions do not shed any light, chances are good that the transmission overheated and the balls are melted into the diff gear - an easy fix. My original GT I bought used, it had the same problem. Upon dissasembly, I found the balls melted into the diff gear, preventing them from rolling on the diff washers to create the diff action.

Why this happened: The diff itself was too loose, causing the balls to slip on the diff washers instead of roll. This caused friction, heat, and melted plastic. :D

After you figure it out, check the diff for tightness as sosidge said. If it's too loose it will melt the balls into the diff gear again.

Thats happened to me twice in the last few weeks, Ill have to make sure my diff is tighter now.

[Mystracing]

ross - give the diff lube Crescenzi just came out with a try. It works great for a GT, makes the diff just as smooth as stealth grease, but has more cohesion to keep the diff from slipping the balls.

Like above www.rc10gthobby.com

[BTE214]

i need engine suggestions i have around 100 bucks to spend and was thing about the os .12 cv-x

[The King]

Originally posted by RCracer214
i need engine suggestions i have around 100 bucks to spend and was thing about the os .12 cv-x

That would be a good choice:D

[1tuffRC10]

The CV is a good engine but has only .56 hp. The CV-R is a 1 hp engine and sells for less than 100 for now. The X stands for pull start. Depending on what engine you are using now, you may be able to transfer the pull start from it to a new CV-R.

[BTE214]

nope i have to get one with pullstart the one im running is a torg .12 in a maximum bx. Im getting my gt wed for 15 with a seized ae engine and stripped gears i think i'll get the os .12 cvx thanks!

[rc10gtroller]

What is a good hump pack for the gt? I was thinking about getting a team orion hump pack i found. what do you think, if you could put a link ifd you find one.
Thanks

[rc10gtroller]

What is a good hump pack for the gt? I was thinking about getting a team orion hump pack i found. what do you think, if you could put a link ifd you find one.
Thanks

[atm92484_3]

Either that or a Trinity hump pack. Just make sure its built with good brand name cells (Sanyo, Panasonic, etc) and has atleast 1100 mah.

[NoPulse]

RX PACK (http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=10129.7)
try this RX pack, its way cheaper than the orion types and its 1600Mah Nihm @ only 5.0 oz for $18.00

[YZ167]

Whats a good charger for the Rx packs? I have two but I have no charger for them I dont belive my Duratrax Digital will work for Rx packs will it? If it does where do I get some connectors for it? Or for another charger if I need one? I dont need anything fancy just something to do the job.

[RC10's]

i use a MRC super brain 959, it works really well. just splice a jst connecter into a tamiya and plug it in.

[sosidge]

Originally posted by rc10gtroller
What is a good hump pack for the gt? I was thinking about getting a team orion hump pack i found.

I've got the Orion hump - can't fault it.

[eman88]

is the novarossi cx12 a pullstart engine?
How would it compare to an OS .12 cv-x?
thanks!!!

[offroadcrazy01]

both are great engines I think you would have more fun with the cv-x it 's easy to tune and will take alot of abuse the other engine is a real race engine will not be as easy to tune and it cost alot more.It not how fast the engine go's it"s how you drive

[eman88]

does the cx12 come with a pullstart?
I might get it if I buy the rc10gt that i posted pics of a few posts up. I was thinking I would just take out an engine and sell everything else for more money on ebay.
I could get the sleeve squeezed for 15 or 20 bucks by OSrockets and I would have the engine in like new condition for 15 bucks.
2 of my friends have .12 cv-x engines in their stadium trucks, and im wondering how they will compare.

[eman88]

well, you dont need to answer any questions about the cx12, he sold the truck :mad:
he got a new S7
8 sets of buggy tires and wheels
5 glow plugs
and a new WS7 rod
and 40 bucks
that stuff is worth a lot more than teh 185 I was going to spent!!!

well, there goes my chance to make 50 or so bucks off of buying and reselling the truck :(

[BTE214]

how fast will the cv-x make the gt run?

[atm92484_3]

It will push the GT to around 30-35mph.

[stealthpenguin]

I'm planning on getting a RC10GT Factory Team sometime in the next week. I've been looking at it for quite some time now, and think it's the right ST for me. My last truck was a Nitro MT, and I was very dissapointed in the build quality and performance. So, I think it's time for an 'upgrade'.

For an engine, I want to get either a O.S. .12 CV-R (S) ($91), or a '03 Fantom FR12 (rotary/non-PS) ($99). Then I was also thinking of getting a pair of Proline Gladiators for the rear (for bashing), cause I want to preserve the Bowties for racing. I am planning on using a standard Airtronics 94102Z servo (comes with the MX-3) for throttle, and a Hitec 605 for steering. And, I'm thinking maybe 50wt for the front and 40wt for the rear. Does the GT-FT come with an air-filter? if not, I'm getting an OFNA 1/8 air-filter.

I also heard that it would be wise to pick up a tube of diff. grease for the 'stealth' transmission. Are there any other parts you guys would recommend getting?

[atm92484_3]

Don't bother with the grease. I have a pair of Stealth trannies (3 and 4 years old) and their gears are still like new, no lube used. I think you'll like the GT though. Every person who has made the jump from NMT to GT has. I would go with the 12 CV-R. The Fantoms are nice engines but if the 03s are anything like the originals, they are all top-end. You look good on servos and you could also get away with the stock 30wt oil that comes with the kit (I've found anything above 40 to be too stiff for most track conditions anyways). The GT also includes AE's 2 stage paper/foam filter so there isn't much of a need to upgrade.

[stealthpenguin]

great! hey atm, aren't you on the 7.5 forum too?

Also, what do you guys use to secure your batt. pack to the holder in the rear. I was also thinking about getting the RPM receiver box to protect my receiver.

[Railman]

Stealth,
If I were you I'd stay away from the 605 servo. They have a history of not returning to center. I tried two 605's before buying a high end servo. What a waste of money! :eek: I'd just run the std 102 servo until you can aford a good one. You would be better off buying a good used servo than a substandard new one. Stay with a coreless servo, preferably with metal gears, but metal gears aren't always necesary, as long as you keep the servo saver set right. Some of Hitecs newer servos are popular, but the 605 just doesn't cut it. JR, Airtronics, Ko, Futaba make the most popular ones used by racers. A decent new coreless servo can be had for about $70 to $110. Used ones can be found for around $40 to $50.

Ross,
About the melted diff: They last melted diff I saw was when my son first started to race. He got his GT hung on a tube with one wheel off the ground, & revved the free wheel like crazy trying to get it off. It totally melted the diff gear. With only one wheel on the ground, the diff was forced into one side sitting still while the other one spun at double speed. That's way more than the diff can take for more than a few seconds at a time. If this doesn't fit your scenario, you either have your diff way too loose, the thrust screw on the wrong side, or something is assembled wrong. If the screw is on the wrong side, the diff action can cause the screw to loosen sometimes. When you rebult your diff, did you use new rings, & use Stealth diff lube?
Joe

[stealthpenguin]

What servo would you recommend for $70? I don't want to spend a lot. Plus, I've had nothing but good experiences with my 605. What about a 5625 or a 5645?

[super_maxx]

Hey guys my diff is broken TOO

i tighted it all the way down and its still doesnt work

umm i have to say im runing A Picco XP with 1.3 hp (i think its no much) but its the fastest truck at the track


thanks

*sm*

[YZ167]

Will my Duratrax Digital work for Rx packs? If it does where do I get some connectors to charge it? If not what charger do you recommened thats cheap and works, thanks.

[Wallis Racing]

Hey stealth,
Bout time you made your way out here:p
I too have the 605MG. i am using it in steering, with no probs, and its like 5 years old, yet its still mint.
I say go with the CV-R, the fantom lacks low end, and low end in the GT is half the fun:)
also, i very much dislike the stock GT filter, so you may as well get a motorsaver. even if i likes the AE one, i'd prolly still get the motor saver anyway.
I run the gladiators all the time, racing and bashing. i like them much more then the bows, dunno why, but i do. and dont worry about everyone complaining about diffs, you shouldn't have a prob if its all setup right. i have an RB X12, and my stock tranny held up to that for 2 months, then i upgraded to the RRP steal spur, hd steal clutch bell, ti topshaft, hd steal idler gear and the alloy main diff gear, but this was all mainly cause i knew i would end up with an engine the GT wouldnt like. i am going to get a RB X12T rody modified, and i dont think the stock tanny would hold up to that, and now that my tranny is already bullet proof, it just makes buying a stupidly powerful engine easier, LOL

but none the less, with the .12 CV-R, your GT will kick ass, and you wont NEED to upgrade anything, but like most people, you will, LOL

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[sosidge]

Originally posted by stealthpenguin
Also, what do you guys use to secure your batt. pack to the holder in the rear. I was also thinking about getting the RPM receiver box to protect my receiver.

The car comes with sturdy tie wraps for the rx pack, and the RPM box is a good purchase.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by super_maxx
Hey guys my diff ....i tighted it all the way down and its still doesnt work......

Bill gazes into his crystal ball . . . . and sees . . . a new diff gear in super_maxx's future, because the balls are melted into the holes . . :D

Maxx you did get the posts a few pages back about the cause, right? It's probably just too late for an adjustment to help . . . HOWEVER . . . my first meltdown I dissasembled and only had to pop the balls loose, clean out the melted slag, and reassemble. When correctly adjusted, it worked fine without replacement.

By the way using the silicone grease is still a good idea, just don't over-use it, put only enough grease in to fill the holes, insert the balls, and remove all the excess.

[eman88]

what do you think of this truck?
I can get it for 235 with a magnum junior radio and everything in the auction
http://cgi.ebay .com/ws/eBay ISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3116351179

take out the spaces that are in the bold area
Thanks!!

[stealthpenguin]

Would I be alright running 40wt all around? (with the team factory shocks)

[1tuffRC10]

penguin, I run no.2 pistons and that is too heavy for them off road. May be okay for bashing though. Try 30 wt.

[dog8spam]

How warm should it be to break in an engine?

[eman88]

I think above 40-50 is a good temp. Anything below that and it is hard to keep the engine rich and still get it above 200F

[FatherSpeed]

I'm putting together 2 RC10GT's for off road racing this coming season. I have read about everything there is is on these things and think I'm on the right track but being an old timer I realize that what is in print doesn't always translate to the track.

What I have so far: RPM front and rear arms, RPM rear bulkheads, titainium hinge pins and rods, everything has bearings, MIP clutches, one car has MIP steering, one has graphite shock towers and one has fiberglass towers. I have an assortment of springs and shock oil.

I'm looking for something competitive but relable. Need some insight from someone that has done some off road racing. Last but not least, one has a Rossi .12 and the other an O.S. .12 cv-r. Pipes are stock AE and a Paris turbo.

[RC10's]

I run 50wt. oil with stock shocks (FT) and am very happy with it. as for the battery pack in the back i would wrap some electrical tape around it about 5-6 times just to be sure. Mine slid out with just the zip ties, discoonected the battery pack and the servo was at like half throttle and the truck took off. So make SURE your pack is held in...enjoy it!

[RC10's]

Anyone ever wondered why AE keeps using dog bones in there lower end trucks? They obviously realize the CVDs are better because they put them in the team and factory teams. Why dont they just drop the dog bones completly and design there own CVDs or something like them. Im just annoyed by them right now becuase i just but CVDs in my friends RTRGT and another friends RTRT3. stupid dog bones

[gearwrench]

Originally posted by YZ167
Will my Duratrax Digital work for Rx packs? If it does where do I get some connectors to charge it? If not what charger do you recommened thats cheap and works, thanks.

I purchased a small wall charger at Stormer Hobbies, it is sold as a ofna and its only 7.95! It has worked great for me, it has a small red led that gets dimmer as the pack charges and shuts off take a look at https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=OFN10214 it is made for the new reciever packs. :D

[offroadcrazy01]

am going to get a tr soon any body got how does it run

[ross]

Originally posted by RC10's
Anyone ever wondered why AE keeps using dog bones in there lower end trucks? They obviously realize the CVDs are better because they put them in the team and factory teams. Why dont they just drop the dog bones completly and design there own CVDs or something like them. Im just annoyed by them right now becuase i just but CVDs in my friends RTRGT and another friends RTRT3. stupid dog bones

Universals or thier own CVD's would still more expensive than the standard dogbones. However I do think Associated dont include some of the bits in the lower end kit just so the kits differ from the high end kits when really it wouldnt cost much more to include in the lower kits. You cant buy a lower end kit but have all the upgrades that come in the high end kits, that doesnt make sense does it? Im sure Associated relise that the titanium turnbuckles are better than the steel ones, and that the factory team pipe is better than the RTR one and that the unobtanium shocks are better that the standard aluminium ones that come with the RTR and Team Built kits and so and so on.

Im not sure why Associated think that the blue aluminium screw kiit is better though. :confused:


offroadcrazy01,

Most of us tend to speak English on this forum. :D ;)


Ross.

[stealthpenguin]

No, you dufus, he's asking how the O.S. TR runs.

[ross]

Originally posted by Railman

Ross,
About the melted diff: They last melted diff I saw was when my son first started to race. He got his GT hung on a tube with one wheel off the ground, & revved the free wheel like crazy trying to get it off. It totally melted the diff gear. With only one wheel on the ground, the diff was forced into one side sitting still while the other one spun at double speed. That's way more than the diff can take for more than a few seconds at a time. If this doesn't fit your scenario, you either have your diff way too loose, the thrust screw on the wrong side, or something is assembled wrong. If the screw is on the wrong side, the diff action can cause the screw to loosen sometimes. When you rebult your diff, did you use new rings, & use Stealth diff lube?
Joe


Hey, thanks alot for the reply, somehow I missed it until now. When I melted the diff last sunday in the first qualifying heat I dont remember getting stuck on a tube, but it has happened at 2 meetings in a row now. I need to get a new diff gear and when I do Ill check everything is in the right place and the diff is tight. Im using ordinary high melting point grease.


Thanks again

Ross.

[YZ167]

Thanks a lot gearwrench I was looking for something like that. =Þ

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by eman88
what do you think of this truck?

Eman, no radio equipment I would not go over $165 and that's a bit high. The reason for my comment is that even though he says it's in good shape, by the amount of scratches on the bottom it has seen some use and you never know what you're getting into with that engine, if it was run hot (which is very common) it may be on its last leg.

So theoretically, you have a good rolling chassis, and maybe a useable motor, $125-$150 is probably OK.

You shoulda jumped on the other one. :D

Originally posted bystealthpenguin
Would I be alright running 40wt all around?
For a track that is very smooth with large jumps you can get away with it but it may push in corners, 30 wt is probably better, with less if it's a bumpy track.

[RCFAN]

well i have my gt ready for break in if the rain would stop i would be set. it's not to cold around 45 or 50 so i think i will be ok what do you all think.

[CJ3willyMX]

i think ill be getting a FT GT in the next couple weeks. Im probably going to use my mx3 radio and get a novak reciever because the airtronics are really expensive. Then ill probably use old servos i have. untill i get some more money. Man i cant wait. The FT come assembled dosesnt it?

[atm92484_3]

Nah the FT GT is actually a kit.

[CJ3willyMX]

great! i wanted to put it together not just buy a pre assembled

[stealthpenguin]

Don't the FT's shocks come pre-assembled with 30wt in them?

[Ford850]

I was just checking out New Era web-site and seen that they sell 1/8 scale wheel adpters. Has anyone ran 1/8 scale tires on there RC-10? If so how well do they perform compared to 1-10 scale tires?

Thanks

[atm92484_3]

Nope everything is unassembled.

[1tuffRC10]

If you do get one to put together, I'll let you in on a must. Get some locktite, I use green, and use it on everything that threads into metal or any regular, non locking nuts. Then for the screws that go into plastic use CA glue, or something like it. I used to use the rubber based tire glue on the E-clips on the suspension pins also.

[stealthpenguin]

atm:

so the shocks dont come with oil in them?

[dog8spam]

I would also replace all the screws on the bottom of the chassis with flat heads. If not all of them at least the four phillips up front and the engine mount ones. By the time I changed the screws up front I couldn't tell what color they were anodized. :D Also dont use the strongest loc-tite, two of my friends got RTRs and I've stripped alot of screws on them trying to get them off. The button and flat heads by Associated are weak and the 6/32 button heads are extreamly weak. I use external lock washers, I think #4.
Lastly I would buy a good (cheap ones strip) set of ball end allen wrenches and needle nose size 4LN vise-grips. it will be the best $40 you spent on new tools.

One question now, does anyone know what thread glow plugs are? I'm trying to make a plug caddy but can't get anything to fit.

[gearwrench]

Does anyone know of a 4-stroke conversion for the rc10gtr? I can't recall ever seeing one in any of the magizines.....just bored with all this cold weather and snow....let me know if any info exists!

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

delete, quadruple post!
:o

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[Railman]

Ross,
The grease your using my be part of the problem. I once tried using a different grease, to get a smoother diff (which it did), but then I couldn't keep it from slipping. The way I see it, a diff has to be able to do two things. One is to transfer power to the outdrives, & two is to give a free counter rotating diff action. The hi temp grease will work well for smoothe diff action, but it will tend to cause the balls to slip too easily on the rings when lots of torque is applied. The way I rebuild diffs is to clean the balls in a film canister with acetone (or laquer thinner). Just put it in, put lid on, & shake it up real well for about 30 seconds. This will help to remove the plastic that gets impregnated into the balls. This will improve the balls grip on the rings. Then lightly sand the new (or new side) of diff rings with #300 or so wet dry silicone carbide (auto body) sand paper. Just place paper on a flat surface & rotate on a circular motion for about three circles, & then reposition the ring on your finger about 1/4 turn & repeat. The idea is to flatten the rings, & give the surface a slight crosshatch scratch pattern. The scratches will help the balls grip the rings with less pressure on them. When done sanding be shure to clean the rings well. I then fill the diff gear ball holes with the std Assoc diff lube, install the balls, & then apply a little more over the balls. If the grease you were using has any petroleum in it, it may soften the plastic gears. The stealth lube is 100% silicone grease, & has the right properties for good ball action for power transfer. When you assemble torque the diff down all the way, & back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. What you should end up with is a diff that needs less spring pressure, & still won't slip.
Hope this makes sense, if not ask away! ;)
Joe

[atm92484_3]

Woah 17 posts. :eek:

[Railman]

atm,
I haven't had very good luck with my posts on here lately. It acted like it wasn't going to take it again. As a matter of fact, it told me the web site wasn't responding. So, I waited & kept trying again, because it is really frustrating to do a thoughtfull post only to have it go up in smoke. I think the most I've ever had happen in the past was a multile of three. Beat the heck out of that, didn't I!:rolleyes:
Joe

[offroadcrazy01]

does any body run the os tr how does it run I was going to buy a cv-r again but they cost 130.00 @ towerhobbies so am going to go ahead and pay 30.00 more and get the tr my cv-r lasted a long year and a half with no troble

[pilothyer]

Hey maybe you should look again............. Tower is selling the OS CV-R for $99.00, It is plenty motor for the GT

[dog8spam]

my cv-r lasted a long year

Mine lasted five, but I run 10%.

[1tuffRC10]

dog8spam, you are good with your engines. Wow

offroadcrazy, either engine is good for a GT just remember that the CVR and the TR have different manifolds. The TR is a rear exhaust and the CVR is side.

railman, that is a good post. Good tips on rebuilding a diff.

anyone try cutting their MIP clutch yet?

[Ford850]

I was just checking out New Era web-site and seen that they sell 1/8 scale wheel adpters. Has anyone ran 1/8 scale tires on there RC-10? If so how well do they perform compared to 1-10 scale tires?

Thanks

[trxstr1961]

just got done building a nds. took me 4 days to get it RTR, need to know the factory settings for a o.scvx(s) .12 that i put in it. :)

[offroadcrazy01]

Today is saturday did you guys race what happen I had to work wish I was out racing and please don't say you all won off road racing is hard you can't win all the time things go wrong some times am working extra so I can get a os-tr

[eman88]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Eman, no radio equipment I would not go over $165 and that's a bit high. The reason for my comment is that even though he says it's in good shape, by the amount of scratches on the bottom it has seen some use and you never know what you're getting into with that engine, if it was run hot (which is very common) it may be on its last leg.

So theoretically, you have a good rolling chassis, and maybe a useable motor, $125-$150 is probably OK.

You shoulda jumped on the other one. :D




thanks, i know i should have gotten that alloy truck, I went away for 3 days, and when i got back he had sold it :(
oh well, if this rc10gt doesnt sell on ebay i will offer him 140ish

[eman88]

Originally posted by dog8spam
Mine lasted five, but I run 10%.

he could have just run a quart a year.

[trxstr1961]

CHECK THIS OUT!! new engine technogogy that is suppose to increase engine life (http://www.khbracing.com/AG_Piston_Tech.htm)

[bubbastump]

wow mix that with my juice and that would be awesome i wanna see it in action first. before i spend that much cash i wanna actual results

[RC10's]

the FT GT is unsassembled in every way, including the shocks.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by trxstr1961
........need to know the factory settings for a o.scvx(s) .12 that i put in it...

You can download the manual from the os engines website, but for the 10 E carb it's 2 turns open on high speed, exactly 1/2 turn IN from flush with the carb body on mid-low speed, and a 1mm opening in the carb throat on setting idle. For the 10C carb, the same 2 turns open on high speed, 2.5 (two-and a half) turns IN from flush with the carb body on mid-low speed, and .3-.5mm open on the idle.

If in doubt go slightly richer. :D

[trxstr1961]

ty bil, thats gonna helpout ALOT! :cool:

[eman88]

what about this truck for 350?

http://cgi.ebay .com/ws/eBay ISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3117207996
take out the spaces in the bolded areas.

[dog8spam]

he could have just run a quart a year

The first year or two, yes.:p I was ten, had no experience, so my car was broke more than it could run. But it got 6-7 gallons by the time I replaced the sleeve.

trxstr, take into consideration the cold. I had to run over 3 1/2 on high speed during break in.

what about this truck for 350?

Take it! For 350 thats a deal, especially with all the spare parts. Be sure to get the whatever you need for RPMs warranty on the A-arms.

[ross]

Thanks alot for that Railman. Is that acetone stuff the the same as white spirit?


Thanks again

Ross.

[trxstr1961]

motor has been broken in, ran it last summer, just gotta get it running again

[trxstr1961]

roses r red, the sky isblue, i wish summer was here, dont u??:D

[NoPulse]

Yeah Tuff, I trimmed down my MIP Clutch like you said, and it works great!
I actually can see a difference in the stock & MIP clutches. Or should I say when you trim the stock clucth down it works better, and the MIP Clutch works better all together!
Right now Im looking into getting a starter box. There is a dynamite on ebay for $40.
I will have to convert my AE .15 into a non-pull start, any tips guys?

[1tuffRC10]

Thanks Nopulse. I wasn't sure if it was my imagination or not. LOL. I am trying the clutch in the #3 position now with about the same trim. It does about the same but seems to hit harder at first engagement than the #2 way. We have had rain for three weeks in a row so I haven't got to try it on a track yet, besides a little play time Saturday at our new local track. Throwed some pipe down to figure out a course and wow. I'll try and get some pics of the new track soon. Hint two crossovers! Converting to non pull start is easy. You just need a flywheel and engine mount. The header can be bent up easy enough so that it doesn't hit the left rear c arm.

[chachi]

what are the symptoms of a differential that is:

a) too tight?

b) too loose?

i'm curious because i just ported my header and also cleaned and lubed my differential. even with a pretty loose slipper i seem to be doing chewies way more...could be more power or perhaps my diff is not adjusted quite right.

[atm92484_3]

If the diff is too tight, the car won't want to turn and the balls/rings might become damaged (flat spots). If its too loose, it will cause the car to be skiddish in the straights and if really loose, will slip excessively during acceleration.

[sosidge]

j u s t h o w m u c h c o l o u r d o y o u w a n t ?

[trxstr1961]

Enough to tell witch posts are mine.and besides I hate a black and white world there should be LOTS of color in it :)

[eman88]

please dont use light colors like this
kdlfjda;
it is extremely annoying to read.

[trxstr1961]

you cant tune a engine on the bench, at least thats what ive read. is that right?also, i think i have a mip clutch, but not sure, could someone on here post a pic of it?? the 1 i have has 2 shoes with a spring around them..is this it??

[ross]

Originally posted by eman88
please dont use light colors like this
kdlfjda;
it is extremely annoying to read.


here, here :)

[dog8spam]

the 1 i have has 2 shoes with a spring around them..is this it??

Yeah, thats it. Theres pic on MIPs web site.

you cant tune a engine on the bench, at least thats what ive read. is that right?

I wouldn't try it, it seems like you would overrev unless you had it on a dyno. If you do, DON"T RUN IN ANY BUILDING. It burns worse than auto exhaust. I'll never do it again.

[Ford850]

Can anyone tell me if this is the reveres fill tank?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXT8&P=7

Thanks

[speedydave]

Yep. That tank will have the opening in the front of the truck instead of more toward the back, which will make it easier to fill it up through the window on the body.

[Ford850]

thank you speedydave for your speedy responce

[boricua racing]

factory team

[k_sw31]

If anyone is interested, I have a Ft GT for sale, all the goodies, plus an MIP clutch, and some spare parts (a arms, etc... :)). I will give you a couple of standard servos, and you can take it with the engine or with out.

The engine is an O.S. CV-X with a brand new pull starter, fairly new dynamite cooling head (stage II), and a new piston and sleeve (duratrax abc). All it needs is a bit of tuning (I also have most of the manuals, including the engine). :)

The rest is pretty much stock (dirt hawg tires, and edges in the front...) if any one has questions feel free to ask...I'm asking about 200$ with engine + shipping, and around 160$ + shipping w/ out engine.

I have not posted in the Buy/Sell/Trade yet, But I think I will in a week or two.

Thanks

Shoot me an email at K_sw31@hotmail.com :)

[Mystracing]

Hard to beleive the CVR 's been around for 5 years already; Oh yea that's right it hasn't :rolleyes: The CV Hyper was new in Setember of 2000, CVR shortly befor or after that if I remember correctly.

[RC10's]

converting your GT to non pull start is different depending on who you talk to. My friend has a stock RTR and he uses a starterbox on it, it does not work well and it does wear down the wheel on the box quite rapdily, but it works. The flywheel is the biggest change you need to make, and i suppose you could get the non pull mount and widen the whole in the chassis if you find it neccesary. I would try it with just a non pull flywheel thats what i have and it works fine.

[ross]

Originally posted by RC10's
converting your GT to non pull start is different depending on who you talk to. My friend has a stock RTR and he uses a starterbox on it, it does not work well and it does wear down the wheel on the box quite rapdily, but it works. The flywheel is the biggest change you need to make, and i suppose you could get the non pull mount and widen the whole in the chassis if you find it neccesary. I would try it with just a non pull flywheel thats what i have and it works fine.

I would have thought that if you use the non pullstart flywheel with the pullstart mounts that the starter box wheel would not be able to touch the flywheel because the engine sits higher with the pullstart mounts.

[sosidge]

boricua - have you de-anodised that car? (hopefully re-anodised clear) - it's a nice way to make the car look individual (it's like ten years ago someone thought "blue/purple parts would look nice", now everything has them...)

[1tuffRC10]

Hey ya'll, the reason for the non pull start mount setting the engine lower is to lower the weight of the engine and make the GT more competitive, supposedly. Really it's what ever works for you. Ross is right, with the non pull flywheel and the pull start mount no starter box will work like it should. I've heard of people making the hole in the chassis bigger to help the starter wheel touch the flywheel but if your box and truck is set properly, it should work fine. BTW The wider non pull flywheel will do less damage to your starter box wheel. Also I have a Nitro Hawk that has over three years on the engine. It hasn't seen nitro in two!

[boricua racing]

Originally posted by sosidge
boricua - have you de-anodised that car? (hopefully re-anodised clear) - it's a nice way to make the car look individual (it's like ten years ago someone thought "blue/purple parts would look nice", now everything has them...)



Yes, I polish all metal parts and installed full SS screws and nuts.:cool:

[ross]

Originally posted by boricua racing
Yes, I polish all metal parts and installed full SS screws and nuts.:cool:

Looks very nice, although blue is nice IMO polished looks way better especailly with SS screws. Id love my GT like that.

[OldskoolGT]

Originally posted by sosidge
(it's like ten years ago someone thought "blue/purple parts would look nice", now everything has them...)


I miss the gold anodized color (from the original RC10 tub chassis).

[trxstr1961]

That would be a awsome idea for annaversary edition of the gt, a gold chassis.

Is there ANY way to reannodize a chassis?? if so, where could i get it done at??

[NoPulse]

Just wanna say thanks to all of you guys who post valuable info. I know I have surely used it!
Here is what I want to do:
Convert the AE .15 to a non-pullstart (from the RTR+ kit)
I have:
non-pull flywheel
non-pull manifold
I need:
non-pull eng. mount
non-pull back plate (to get rid of pull starter)
Am I heading in the right direction?
What starter boxes do ya recommend & where can I get the mount & plate (think I will order from tower hobbies, they are cheaper than my LHS)
Thanks

[ross]

Originally posted by NoPulse
Just wanna say thanks to all of you guys who post valuable info. I know I have surely used it!
Here is what I want to do:
Convert the AE .15 to a non-pullstart (from the RTR+ kit)
I have:
non-pull flywheel
non-pull manifold
I need:
non-pull eng. mount
non-pull back plate (to get rid of pull starter)
Am I heading in the right direction?
What starter boxes do ya recommend & where can I get the mount & plate (think I will order from tower hobbies, they are cheaper than my LHS)
Thanks

Remember that you need to either buy a new non pullstart crankshaft or grind the pullstart bit off the current crankshaft. Since I got my CVR my current starter box hasnt been up to the job of turning it over so Im gettin the Thunder Tiger starter box since alot of good things have been said about it, another great starter box is the Mugen box.

[dog8spam]

What did you use to de-anodize? I read something somewhere about a chemical that eats anodized off.

What starter boxes do ya recommend

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXAXU2

This box is AWESOME. It comes with power panel, glow starter thing that plugs into the power panel, is VERY reliable and battery lasts a long time before it has to be charged. The best thing is I never go somewhere to run and realize my glow starter is dead and have to wait three hours for it to charge.

I had an old GS starter that would meltdown on me. The motors would smoke and lock up and then stuff would melt. I spent more time wrenching on that box than I did on my car. The OFNA box has worked flawlessly since I got it.
You will also need a 12v charger. You can get one with allagator clips on it, there are holes in the side for them.

[speedydave]

I have that box and I love it. It's very powerful, and very complete and easy to use. One time, I came back from my race, and someone was trying to start a relatively new .21 in their 1/8 buggy on my box(without asking, I might add..I was rather pissed off), but it was cranking the engine right over, though the motors eventually started to smoke, and I kicked the guy the hell out of my pit(hey, he didn't even ask...). :rolleyes:

[1tuffRC10]

I personally like the boxes with the big motors on them. Those little "540" motors with that silly belt is well, Mickey Mouse IMO. Sure the left tire sits on the motor but that is the only draw back that I see.

[Mystracing]

I'm with Tuff, Ofna 10258 or 10259 if you want the power panel. Then if someone tries to start an 8th scale on it you don't care because it's made for it.

http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/sbox.jpg

[1tuffRC10]

Mystracing, that pic made me go look at my starter box. LOL I wish mine looked that good. I guess it's cranked about everything so I got my money's worth!

[Mystracing]

Mine doesn't look quite like that anymore either. Nice thing about pictures of your equipment they don't get dirty and scratched up like the real item.

[eman88]

I can get this for 180, no shipping because I will pick it up


good deal for 180?


http://cgi.ebay .com/ws/eBay ISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3116351179

take out the spaces

[stealthpenguin]

I was thinking about getting this (http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2379{7**44) one.

It has a powerful motor (which I will need when I get my MP 7.5) and you can get it with a powerpanel, glow-clip, charger, and battery; all assembled for an extra $55.

[bubbastump]

wow i had the same box till i cooked motor i got a new motor and rebuilding box ill post pics when im done

[Mystracing]

stealthpenguin - It has the same motor as the box I posted a picture of. It's a little tough to get a GT to fit. If you pull the starter box wheel all the way toward the middle and put the left rear wheel of the truck against the box it just barely works though. I have a friend that uses that box.

If your running a GT the 10255 , or 10258 would be a better cross over box IMO

[slaf]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXAXU2

This box is AWESOME. It comes with power panel, glow starter thing that plugs into the power panel, is VERY reliable and battery lasts a long time before it has to be charged. The best thing is I never go somewhere to run and realize my glow starter is dead and have to wait three hours for it to charge. [/B]

I have the same starter box and it's work really great. Does someone can post a picture so I can see how you setup the pegs ? I have some dificulties with mine.

[Mystracing]

Slaf Heres how the one above is setup. If you look close above it has three 4-40 x 1" screws in it. one bare for the front of the truck, and two by the hanle with fuel tubing on them. I drilled a hole through the chassis so it holds it in place to where it can't move front to back period. Then another screw on each side of the receiver pack with some fuel tubing and it's a one handed operation. I can actually carry the truck stuck on the starter box by the box handle without touching the truck.

http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/rearpin.jpg

http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/bot.jpg

[slaf]

Thanks alot Mystracing:) :)

I'll try to use 4-40 screw for the rear too but I'm not sure for drilling in my gt frame...:(

[BashCat]

What advice do you guys have about taking out the slop in the front steering linkage?
The servo itself has most of the slop, and the wheels seem to have too much play. I plan to replace the old ball cups with new ones, but what else can I do?:confused:

[bubbastump]

wow again i just checked to see if i have any slop and yes i do my servo is missing horn screw
thanks for mentioning it i would hate for it to come off in a race

[stealthpenguin]

Hm, so which box would fit the RC10GT really well, and would fit a 1/8 buggy?

[Wallis Racing]

stealth, no box is really universal for a GT and buggy, cause that means if you set it up for the GT, you have to put the buggy on across the box to start it cause the engines are on different angles on the chassis. either that or you keep moving the motor and pegs each time you want to start the other car.:rolleyes:

I have a Ofna box(forget which one?), was $70 and has 2 540 motors and that 'silly belt', LOL. i dont mind it, when my engine was brand new, the 2 motors couldnt turn it over, in fact, noting could turn it over, i ended up getting a plastic welder to heat up the engine to get it to turn over. but after the break in, the box works mint, and there is no motor sticking out the side of the box for the GT wheels to hit.
JMHO

if you want a box to fit a GT and a buggy, just look for any box with either one big motor(like pictured above) or one with 2 540 motors. the box needs to have a 'T' shaped hole in the top if you want to be able to use it for a GT and buggy.

anyways,
Mad Man
Walllis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[Wallis Racing]

boricua-
is that a GPM or Racers edge SS screw kit, or something else?

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[eman88]

I can get this for 180, no shipping because I will pick it up


good deal for 180?


http://cgi.ebay .com/ws/eBay ISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3116351179

take out the spaces



anyone??

[1tuffRC10]

If you are still using the stock steering, AE sells a kit for around 10 bucks that has all the steering, except the nuts on the bottom of the bell cranks. It even includes new turnbuckles. If you want something different MIP makes a zero maintence steering for the GT that works well but you will have to use a large servo saver as it has no saver built in like the stock.

[Jamedup]

Originally posted by BashCat
What advice do you guys have about taking out the slop in the front steering linkage?
The servo itself has most of the slop, and the wheels seem to have too much play. I plan to replace the old ball cups with new ones, but what else can I do?:confused:

You guys are going to think I'm wacked but some of the fastest laps times I've recorded on our track is with my old retired racer.
Since a major mishap (long story) sidelined my newer GT, I threw my old racer that I've been using to bash/practice with on the track. With all 4 corners wobbling like fresh road kill, I figured I'd be lucky to qualify for the A-main. To my suprise, I qualified 4th with it, and recorded faster and almost identical laps times through out the qualifiers with it. :eek: This happened 2 weeks in a row.

The moral of this story...... Damed if I know. :rolleyes:

[RCBuddha]

Hi guys,

I'm resurrecting my GT (first version) and was wondering if anyone can help me find some aluminum mounts for the throttle and steering servos. I thought Trinity made some, but its been so long, I can't remember. Can anyone help?

Buddha

[boricua racing]

Originally posted by Wallis Racing
boricua-
is that a GPM or Racers edge SS screw kit, or something else?

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)



IS A RACERS EDGE KIT.

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by RCBuddha
Hi guys,

I'm resurrecting my GT (first version) and was wondering if anyone can help me find some aluminum mounts for the throttle and steering servos. I thought Trinity made some, but its been so long, I can't remember. Can anyone help?

Buddha

The steering one is tk5049. I could have sworn that they made a throttle one also but I can't seem to find it for some reason.

[tipper]

Hey guys what up. I have a gt and I am looking for some non aluminum or metal hop ups. I have all rpm gut I need more. I was also woundering if you all know how to make a rc10gt go 100mph thanks for the help

tipper:D

[RCBuddha]

Thanks for the info ATM, I saw the steering set on the Trinity website, but could not find the one for the throttle servo.

Buddha

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by tipper
He.....know how to make a rc10gt go 100mph.....
ROFLMAO!!!!!! Rockets? Drag it behind a NASCAR? :D LOL!!!

[Polk]

My GT still hasent arrived :(

Been 9 or 10 weeks now........


*sigh*

:(

[NoPulse]

Its coming!
The 3rd Annual Saturday Series
For all you southern Californians
The Dirt (http://www.thedirtracing.com/)

[tipper]

I though I could come here to get some help on some hop-up and to see if any of you know any speed tips but u guys are all are wanabe rc racers. I came here to be helped because I have a rc10gt like all of you. I didn't come here to be made fun off.

:p

[1tuffRC10]

I don't think that anyone was making fun of you it's just that 100mph out of a GT is kind of silly. Why? The GT is a stadium truck that is a very competitive racer (offroad). If you want pure speed, get a TC3 or something similar. Now I'm not sure of what speed my GT gets to with a 16 clutch bell and an OS TR, but I do know that it will get so fast that the slightest movement of the wheel will send it flying. If you want to build a GT for off road, there are people here that will help. What do you want to know?

[tipper]

fine I would like some help for really light parts that are not metal or aluminum for my gt. dyable would be good. I have all rpm parts right now I just need some other parts

[1tuffRC10]

I'm not sure on what else you could do to lighten up a GT. Maybe try shaving on your plastic parts and drilling out the chassis. This will weaken things severely so be careful on how much you take off. what are you trying to do make a drag racer out of a GT?

[bubbastump]

do they make a vented flywheel for the gt using stock clutch shoes?????

[tipper]

1tuff I am not trying to make a drag racer out of a gt I have a 100mph super nitro rs4 so I want a RC10GT to go 100mph. I don't want to change it in any way I just want to make it lighter and faster with out losaing duribiltiy. I am trying to make it go 100mph and if I can it will rock. I have rockets on it already that gets it up to 80mph but I want it to go faster still.

I would still like some help on parts. Remember to metals only plastics they are very light cheap and durible.

thanks guys :D

[stealthpenguin]

What do you have on your SNRS4?

[eman88]

Originally posted by tipper
1tuff I am not trying to make a drag racer out of a gt I have a 100mph super nitro rs4 so I want a RC10GT to go 100mph. I don't want to change it in any way I just want to make it lighter and faster with out losaing duribiltiy. I am trying to make it go 100mph and if I can it will rock. I have rockets on it already that gets it up to 80mph but I want it to go faster still.

I would still like some help on parts. Remember to metals only plastics they are very light cheap and durible.

thanks guys :D


I highly doubt that.
I doubt your rc10gt goes 80. is this just your estimate?
it is also very hard to get an onroad to go 100, even with the 1/8 serpents

[BTE214]

can someone please give me detataled instructions on how to adjust the dif ie what screw to turn thanks

[BTE214]

can someone please give me detataled instructions on how to adjust the dif ie what screw to turn thanks

[Mystracing]

I'd personally recommend throwing it off a cliff.

With a 24 / 64 gearing, truck tires and a motor turning 50,000 rpm the truck would just barely top 67 mph in a perfect world. Of course do to wind resistance etc, and the fact the motor isn't going to turn 50k it's for all practicle purposes impossible. You could start by throwing away the tranny and mounting a direct drive type 3 speed on it with a .21, but at that point it isn't a GT any longer, not to mention if your worried about the cost of metal parts the .21 etc. probably beyond your budget.

By the way I'll be happy to retract the comment about throwing it off a cliff as well as the following if you post a pictures and explanations of how you attached and ignite the rockets, not to mention syncronize the thrust.

Rockets are totally impracticle because they have to be perfectly aligned or the vehicle will just go spinning out of control.

[Railman]

"100 mph GT"
A local track owner has a GT that will get very close if not 100 mph. He had it out one day in an parking lot & it was just a blur, & that was before he opened the throttle. They were very short runs due to the speed. The tires looked like they grew to about 4 1/2" at speed. I later asked him about it & he said that he used doubled up tires, & glued a stiff foam to the rim. He said he had a cop clock him one day at 89 mph, & after seeing it in person, I'd say he was being honest about it. He was running a totally reworked .21, with all sorts of hand made internals.The next time I go to his track, I'll ask him some more questions about it.
Joe

[tipper]

Mystracing e-mail me and I will tell you that is all I have to say. I will tell you because I have done it and I am not the first one to do it. I can rase you 5mph.

[tipper]

Hey you guys I am not going to bore you about trying to get to 100mph because It can get anoying and I am still going to try and do it. If you want to ask me anything just e-mail of write. I am still woundering on what other parts I should get for my off-road rc10gt. I have all rpm and I don't want any metal again.

thanks for the help :D

[trxstr1961]

hoping to get my gt's running by may of this year, then ill have all 4 nitros running, FINALLY!! :D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by tipper
I.......u guys are all are wanabe rc racers.......I didn't come here to be made fun off.....
Tipper no one's making fun of you, and we're not wannabe anythings. Some of us are here to have fun, compare notes, and exchange info. I was kidding you, well . . ., because I didn't think you were serious.

Sure you can figure out a way to get it going 100 somehow, but the question is . . .why, and why bother? If you want something to break a speed record, a GT is not the thing to use. I'd use a rocket-powered pan car, personally . . . .

[bubbastump]

do they make a vented flywheel for the gt using stock clutch shoes?????
can someone please answer me this is the 4th time i asked
or am i goin to have to try to drill it with a dremmel myself?
i found that i am melting stock shoes and want to cool em down
what am i doing wrong????

[1tuffRC10]

bubbastump, there is a vented flywheel out there just not sure who had it. The stock clutch shoes may be your only problem. I personally never liked them. If you are melting them down then maybe you need a better clutch. Are you running the 2 shoe or 4 shoe clutch? I'm not sure that a vented flywheel would help that much.

[atm92484_3]

RRP makes a vented flywheel for the T-Maxx. This is the only one that might fit. I would just get an MIP clutch though. The stock ones are okay but it seems like they like to melt and disform from regular use.

[tipper]

A vented flywheel dose nothing for the clutch it only cools down the engine better. If you are melting clutch shoes try going with the mip 4 in 1 clutch. I use that and it works great. I have the same one. I also had a simaler problem my cltuch shoes were melting at the tips so I switched to the mip and it works great and I have never melted a clutch clutch shoe since. You could also just get out of clutch shoes to and get a 2 piece spring clutch it works the same way. I am thing of investing in one of those.

hope it helps:p

[tipper]

I still need some help on my truck if anybody is willing to help me. I need. some good hop ups no metals.

please need help :confused:

[tipper]

I was kidding you, well . . ., because I didn't think you were serious.


no problem I under stand I have found gears for them I just need to make them. it is like a 19 and a 90 tooth gear.

I under stand u though I was joking. no harm done

see ya;)

[geo8498]

Does anyone think there's an advantage in using Robinson's hardened steel idler gear as opposed to a plastic one?

After I stripped my stock idler gear, I bought a plastic Associated gear at my LHS, as well as one on eBay. They only cost about $3 anyway. Then I got the Robinson Hardened steel Idler gear on eBay for cheap. I've just stored it in my parts box for now, as I've already installed the plastic one.

The RRP package says that using this gear will shorten the life of the top shaft. That being the case, I'd only end up changing a different part next time.

When I was buying spur gears, I decided to stay with plastic precisely for the reason that it's better to replace a $3 gear (having 2 or 3 on hand in case) than possibly having to replace something else that may cost $12. This information I heard from both my LHS and AE's FAQ site.

So is there any performance advantage to switching to a metal gear?

[atm92484_3]

I really don't think a metal tranny is worth it. Like you said, something else will wear out. Not to mention it weighs a lot more than the stock tranny and is not necessary when using any smallblock engine. You could give the metal gear a shot if you want but you might end up replacing worn diff balls or other gears.

[Draxx]

I got a RC10GTFT so my wife got a digital camera
in the deal. The result- a pic of my truck doing the rostertail thing:cool:

[geo8498]

Thanks atm. You're the one who told me about RRP's spur gear when I stripped that. Can't wait to see my GT with that new OS engine in it. I'll was planning on getting it Monday night, but I have a dentist appointment, so it might be Tuesday.

Do you have any advice on if I can adjust that brake better, or maybe I should get that custom brake kit? (can't rememerb the name)

[FatherSpeed]

I need some advice on rod ends. I'm installing Lunford rods and hinge pins with heavy duty RPM ends. The ends are so big that the steering hits on the suspension end. I noticed when I was taking the stock (smaller) AE ends off that they were pretty tough ,even though smaller. Are the heavy duty ends necessary, or are the stock AE good enough.

Another question,,,, is the stock steering good enough to do a little off-road racing or should it be upgraded? I'm not even sure I can drive oneof these things anymore, but I'm having a ball working on it. I'm just looking to put something together that is as reliable as possible and would appreciate some thoughts from somone that has been there.

Thanks