Kyosho Nitro Blizzard

[blaneo]

LOL... I can tell you that if you didn't treat them with the utmost respect, they would clean your clock.:p

[CJ-5]

But I will still be able to play with my toys right?

[blaneo]

Yeah, they might even get theirs out and join in the fun.

[CJ-5]

Sounds like a plan when can I move in?...lol

I am starting to design my next project, I know it seems a bit early but the blizz took forever to design. I figure it will be a year or more to do the next one so im starting early. I am gonna try out a John Deere 550LC Hydraulic Excavator. Its about 55-60 metric tons in real life. In transport position like you would see it on a trailer she is more than 59" long. I might build it in 1/12-1/14 scale so I could put it on a tamiya King Hauler. Right now its just ideas nothin more but wanna try this one.

[blaneo]

First of the month ok? I require first and last month's rent in advance, plus a security deposit of the same. How's $750 a month sound? For an extra $100 a month, you can use my shop.

That sounds like an interesting project. I have always thought about building something to haul on one of those rigs also. I have been kicking around an idea about building some type of rocket launcher to tow behind one of my Blizzards. Something that is able to be self contained and able to raise the rocket and fire it. It shouldn't be any trouble to build, it's just finding the time to do it. My latest project (Macho Truck) has stalled out and I am getting frustrated about not getting to it. It has been so cold here that I don't feel like heating the whole shop up for just a couple of hours worth of work. And I don't think the women folk would appreciate me flinging metal shavings all over the house. So I have been tinkering with my DX models lately. I adapted the tranny assembly to accept larger motors. I haven't hooked it up to the vehicle yet, but it does work out of it. Perhaps tonight I will drop it into the vehicle and see what happens.

[CJ-5]

Hmmm 750 sounds a tad steep for me right now. I just got something cool for heating my shop,. my grandpa's A150C Torpedo Heater. Runs of Kerosene. I turn it on for about 5 minutes and it heats my 50x50 shop for an hour.

Right now I have a coule kiddie projects goin, the farmer I used to work for is freakin out because a engine swap we started a year and a half ago isnt done so he has me workin my spheres off welding on a 23" extentionn to the chassis. And we got the new engine delivered this morning, I almost dround in the puddle of drool when the John Deere guy dropped off our new 12.5L 550hp Powertech diesel engine.

[CJ-5]

Wow this place got dead since I left....lol

I have been workin like crazy, we got this lovely blizzard the last week and a half and I think I have slept about 10 hours total. I took about 50 pics of the real dozer the other day and stupid me, I accidentally deleted the pics on the camera before I got em to the comp, so I'm kinda mad....lol

I dod however get started on puttin the Blizzard back together so I can get it running at least.

[blaneo]

LOL I didn't realize you were gone, but then I haven't been around much either.We got hit also. I kept complaining about wanting snow, now we got about 16" laying on the ground. I am off today and it was suppose to be clear for us, but it has snowed all day. I too have been plowing snow every day, I was hoping that I would get a day off from it, but I am going to have to go out later and do some. I think I screwed up the engine on my Nitro Blizzard last weekend. It started running really weird and then quit all together. It turns okay, but seems to lack compression. I haven't tried to start it again,I am hoping that it was just a fluke. But I suspect it needs a new piston and sleeve. Tower has them on order, but who knows if they will get them. I do have another new GS11R, but I was tring to save it until I really need it. Or it may be a good time to drop a bigger engine into it.

[CJ-5]

What are you plowin with?? I have been in a multitude of equipment, but mostly been John Deere tractors, did spend some time in a old Case but not long....lol

16" wow that must be nice, I have a wall of snow about 25ft high at the end of our driveway, total in the last 2 weeks I think we have got close to 5ft maybe a bit less.

Bigger engine eh?..... an engine I love for the NB and I will definately be putting in is an old Traxxas .15, it wont be the pro but the older crappier one, just for the fuel economy. Its cheap, decently durable, and theres tons of em out on ebay, and other forums. Maybe even an O.S. .12 or .15.

[blaneo]

The only thing I have to plow with is my DX Blizzard:p . Just kiddin'. At work I use an 8000# White Forklift. I have a 8' box bucket that I hook up to the forks. We fabricated it with tilt so that I can dump the snow out of it. I can lift up to about 12 or 14 foot before things start getting hairy. LOL Everybody thinks it's funny looking, but it actually does a better job then most other equipment for our area. One of my friends has an old Trojan front end loader that I use when it gets really deep. That thing is older then me, and I ain't kiddin'. I can walk faster then that thing moves, but boy does it ever strut it's stuff when push comes to shove. My Dad used to use the same loader before I was even born, and I'm 43. The piles and drifts here are gettting pretty high, but the actual snow depth isn't anything near that. We are suppose to get a little tonight, and then it is suppose to be clear Sat., but then more snow for Sunday and Monday.

I have an OS 12cvr and a 15cvr. They are both used, but in really great shape. I also have a new GS15r. I was gonna play around with them last summer and see what would happen with the BLizzard, but I never got around to it. I think I may take the Nitro and the new GS11R to work tommorow and see if I can get the old motor to fire up. If not I can switch the new one into it, and get it broken in. I really want to go out and play in some really deep stuff with it. I should be able to get some really good action shots if I can con someone into braving the cold.

[CJ-5]

LOL the old Trojan Loaders, We have one at the farm, although its missing a few vital components like engine tranny and tires, it was retired about 20 years before I was even born. It just kinda sits there lookin pretty. I know what its like to be runnin equipment older than me, we have new and old tractors to choose from when we are out working but I like the older ones. We just got a brand new John Deere 7920 tractor a few days ago, it is loaded right down, you'd think you were sittin in a caddillac. Almost everyday we fight for machines and I choose the 1973 4430 that has heat that sometimes works, slow hydraulics and no front wheel assist. I have my tape player in there some good speakers and my big ole Chrome exhaust with no muffler.

A lot of guys laugh at me because I take the old beast. I like the looks of tractors in the 70's and 80's they looked like tractors, these new ones we are getting look like sports cars, Independant front suspension, Automatic Trannies, Cruise Control, Pilot operated controls.

I just have a thing for old stuff, and the Blizzard is satisfying it, I have kinda changed the design of the blizzard, instead of a 850S Series 2 I think I am gonna dip back a generation to the 850B, its the same dozer, same size, HP, blade and everything but a little older boy style. Looks more like a brute.

[yuckydog]

Hi guys, just bought a Nitro Blizzard off eBay and now I'm in a difficult position of deciding if I should build it or keep it NIB and find a runner. Ugh!

I did see a German web page about some guys who put in a GS-15R in their Blizzard along with the electric start...seems like an interesting mod.

[CJ-5]

Well thats a hard choice. I go with the same rule for my r/c's as real vehicles. What's the use in buying a nice old car to just look at it? I don't even know if it is officially discontinued. I remember in a couple issues of rcca last year they still had the NB in the Kyosho ads. Is it officially done or did tower just stop carrying it?

I would run it, why not? You might never sell it, and they are just to cool. I would just go buy lots of extra parts for it. Hmmmm .15...lol I think I may just have to do it. Now everyone is sayin put a .15 in, like the pholsopher says Never give into peer pressure unless everyone tells you to. :D

[yuckydog]

I've been thinking about it all morning and I believe you're right. I'm gonna build it! (I don't keep any NIB kits but for some reason I wanted to for this one.) I don't think it's discontinued by Kyosho as their Japanese web site still has it but Tower doesn't carry it anymore. Fortunately it looks like they stock a lot of extra parts (like the treads). I haven't looked at the kit yet but does it come with ball bearings? I may have to pick some up if it doesn't.

Here is the web site for the GS-15R conversion, they have lots of pics but the translation through Google is kinda funny.

GS-15R adapation to the Blizzard (http://www.masuch-kamenz.de/mod/rcv1.htm)

James

[blaneo]

Great Planes Distributing has discontinued it, I believe it is still available over seas as that is where most of the NIB's seem to be listed from.

yuckydog:
Run it man! How else are you gonna know if you even want it or not? I don't think that running it will decrease the price that much. It's not like you can run it into a tree at 30mph and do serious damage to it. And if you want a shelf queen, just buy a second body and paint it up all nice and pretty. That's what I did. Oh yeah, welcome to the thread, we're glad you joined us. I get bored talking to CJ-5 all the time, LOL:p Tower does have alot of parts on hand and they seem to have alot on order. Hopefully if they see an increase in the interest of these, they may bring the Blizzard back to the U.S. I haven't checked the site for the .15 conversion, but I am gonna. I think it would add some speed, but not much. I dropped a .15 in my Baja Beetle last summer in place of the .11 that came with it, I didn't notice a whole lotta difference.

[CJ-5]

LOL well if you get tired talkin to me, I'm tired of talkin to you....roflmao.

Anyhoo, I remember once on **** when they had a decent NB forum goin one guy said he put a O.S. 15 in his and it was instantly doin almost 10mph. I just got a steady job now so I am definately gonna start buyin more spare parts for the NB, I'm sure with all the mods and the extra weight and abuse the dozer will provide should kill some of the parts, but I have 2 extra sets of tracks, good thing because I am narrowing a set down to 3.8" Wide.

[blaneo]

I thought I would get a rise out of ya with that.

Over in the Blizzard/Heavy Metal thread, there is a fella using a brushless motor. He says he is getting 15-20 mph depending on how many cells he uses. I didn't ask, but he must have an EP version, which has the same tranny as the Nitro. People have commented on how they think these tranny's won't hold up to the bigger engines, I don't believe there is any reason to be concerned. From the makeup of them I think the whole vehicle is built really tough. Getting rid of the extra weight and decreasing the surface area of the tracks should add a bit of speed to it. I would think you would loose a bit in the traction and steering aspect, but I don't think it would be a lot, do you? I have never seen a manual for the Heavy Metal, but they say that the tracks are suppose to be cut down for the vehicle to look right.

[yuckydog]

Here's a guy auctioning a Heavy Metal where he says that he cut the treads according to the manual:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3173155093&category=44026

And look at Tamiya's new RC tank. It's got 2 540 motors where one is for forward and reverse and the other is for steering!

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=56020

[CJ-5]

Well in total I'm clipping the track about 1/8" total, so I won't be losing too much anyways. You think I would get more speed? DARN, I wanna go slower....lol

I tried gettin the GS-11 goin this afternoon, and I have decided to frig it. I went out and got some parts for my old Pro .15 from me old Pede. It needs a high speed needle and some head shims. Other than that its a decent motor, was ported and polished out the wazoo so it should make some decent power of the NB. I am still looking around for an older .15 traxxas motor that makes no power but will run forever. I figured I should stick with a crappy motor because I dont want to spend much, I dont want speed, and because I will be runnin it longer periods of time, I want to run on Airplane Fuel. I will just add some more oil to it. I used to run 10% Airplane fuel at the LHS in the old .15, then after rebuilding it switched to 30% Trinity Platinum, that was interesting...lol

[blackgtx]

Here is were you can download the manuals for both the blizzard gas and electric.

http://www.kyosho.co.jp/main-e.html

I have not taken mine out for a while but we do have alot of snow now. I have been waiting to see if I can ger a .2 something form my nephue I forget what the actual size was. Then will come the custome fab. Hope fully if I can get to a new shop I will get all the chassie partsplasma cut out and see how that all seals up and maybe make a water proof cover for it also.

[vintage_steeps]

How is everyone ? Well unfortunately i am really in bad need of cash so if anyone is willing to make a serious offer for my kyosho gas version or my ev version please drop me an e mail. vintage_steeps@yahoo.com Sorry to have to let them go but i have bills u know. I am an e bay power seller by the way so be confident i am very serious. One of them is up for auction and i also have 2 brand new unpainted bodies. If you would like to check out the auction its #3183819452

[MitchH2004]

Hello, I just took my Nitro Blizzard out of storage from 1999, and built it last night and today. I'm looking foward to asking you guys a million questions soon :)

[blaneo]

Hello Everyone! Who's left here? Been gone for the site for a while, sorry for that.

MitchH2004:
Nice lookin ride there. Glad to hear that you resurected it. Ask away, we'll help where we can. I know this is a late reply. LOL, only by a couple of months.

[jakestreats]

hi all any one ever fitted a four stroke to a blizzard,many thanks

[EC-EXCURSION]

Hi, this is my first post and would like to say, nice forum you got here.

I have always loved snow cats and untill recently the thought has never crossed my mind that other people could have the same passions as me. I have allways wanted an RC snow cat, and I think I have found what I have been looking for (well sort of). I am planning on getting a nitro blizzard in december. I dont think it comes with a radio so what would you guys recomend, are you more comfortable with a pistol radio or a stick radio? I usually wouldnt ask this but the stearing system on this RC car is different from most tracked vehicles I have worked with. Does the stock engine provide enough power? Is it worth while to put a bigger engine in it? How fast is it, do you think it should be faster or does it make good speed?

If you can answer any of my questions I would greatly appreciate it.

Once I build my nitro blizzard I will begin construction on my 1:10 scale Snow cat. If any of you are interested in learning about other people's RC snow cats, I have found these websites to be very usefull. They're in german but if you download the google toolbar, it can automaticly translate webpages. Pistenraupe.de (http://pistenraupe.de/Modellbau.html) was very helpfull, and snow-groomer.com (http://www.snow-groomer.com/rc_modelle/rc-modelle.html) has some great examples of RC snowcats.

Well, thanks for reading...

[jc2stroke2]

where can i get one of these ive tried the wanted ads with no luck any body still got them or have one for sale ,email at emyjakcar@casscomm.com thanks,jared

[blaneo]

[QUOTE=EC-EXCURSION] I dont think it comes with a radio so what would you guys recomend, are you more comfortable with a pistol radio or a stick radio? I usually wouldnt ask this but the stearing system on this RC car is different from most tracked vehicles I have worked with. Does the stock engine provide enough power? Is it worth while to put a bigger engine in it? How fast is it, do you think it should be faster or does it make good speed?

Well Hello and welcome. Glad someone starting posting again. I was getting tired of hearing myself ramble on. Posting should starting increasing with the snow activity to come.

As to the choice of radio. I use pistol radios on both of my Blizzards. Some folks have used stick radios as their optional servos have increased or that have switched to using two servos for the steering.

As to the steering aspect. It is really more similiar to a car or truck then what most people think. The Nitro and EV versions use a brake disc on each drive wheel to stop the power transfer to that side, therefore the side that has power will turn the vehicle. A single servo regulates which side it goes to, much the same as a steering setup on a car or truck turns the front wheels. The older EP version uses one servo, two speed controls, and two motors to regulate which side the power is sent to, or to apply reverse. (There is also a forum on here for the electrics).

Engine size from the factory is ample. Speed varies greatly with the type of terrain you are driving on. Dirt and grass will slow it down. Soft, fluffy snow is faster, and is great to fling around. Harder, older packed snow is quickest, and slipperyest (is that a word?). Of course we all get bored with speed and need more, so some have up the anty. In early post people were talking of all sorts of engines, whether they got it done and made a difference, I do not really know. I have been wanting to drop in an O.S. 15 CVR to see what it would do, but I have procastanated. Maybe I will do it this year (don't nobody hold their breath). I run my Blzzards in my yard and I have found they have plenty of speed for the playing around I do. No one else in the area has one (that I know of), so I have no one to race with or feel that I need to be faster then.

Building one from scratch is always an option. CJ-5 retrograded his into a bulldozer. Nice job he did too. I have a third EP version that I have thought about turning into an extended body pickup with a plow, winch and hook. Basically a towtruck with a plow. Mabe someday I'll do it.

My user homepage has a link to a webpage that I built sometime ago, that shows a bunch of pictures of the Nitro version. It may be of some help. If I can be of any other help just ask. I did take a quick loook at the links you had listed. I had never ran across those, thanks for sharing them. Looks like a good deal of ideas and modifications there.

jc2stroke2: eBay has them up for auction most of the time, both gas and electrics. Availabity in the US is minimal. Great Planes was the main importer and has stopped importing them due to low buyer demand. They are still available as brand new in the box from other countries though. Prices seem to run about $250-$300. Engine included, radio extra.

Hope this helps you. If not, just give me a yell. Talk with ya all later.

[EC-EXCURSION]

Well Hello and welcome. Glad someone starting posting again. I was getting tired of hearing myself ramble on. Posting should starting increasing with the snow activity to come.
Thank you for the welcome! And for the speedy reply. :) I do hope we're not going to be the only two people exchanging information about our blizzards... :D

As to the choice of radio. I use pistol radios on both of my Blizzards. Some folks have used stick radios as their optional servos have increased or that have switched to using two servos for the steering.

As to the steering aspect. It is really more similiar to a car or truck then what most people think. The Nitro and EV versions use a brake disc on each drive wheel to stop the power transfer to that side, therefore the side that has power will turn the vehicle. A single servo regulates which side it goes to, much the same as a steering setup on a car or truck turns the front wheels. The older EP version uses one servo, two speed controls, and two motors to regulate which side the power is sent to, or to apply reverse. (There is also a forum on here for the electrics).
I think im going to buy a pistol radio. I mean, I would only want a stick radio if you could control the direction of the treads individually. Unfortunately you can’t but maybe that’s a good thing.

Engine size from the factory is ample. Speed varies greatly with the type of terrain you are driving on. Dirt and grass will slow it down. Soft, fluffy snow is faster, and is great to fling around. Harder, older packed snow is quickest, and slipperyest (is that a word?). Of course we all get bored with speed and need more, so some have up the anty. In early post people were talking of all sorts of engines, whether they got it done and made a difference, I do not really know. I have been wanting to drop in an O.S. 15 CVR to see what it would do, but I have procastanated. Maybe I will do it this year (don't nobody hold their breath). I run my Blzzards in my yard and I have found they have plenty of speed for the playing around I do. No one else in the area has one (that I know of), so I have no one to race with or feel that I need to be faster then.
I do hope you get around to installing the new engine but I know what its like to be a procrastinator. I also dont have anyone to race with. :(

Building one from scratch is always an option. CJ-5 retrograded his into a bulldozer. Nice job he did too. I have a third EP version that I have thought about turning into an extended body pickup with a plow, winch and hook. Basically a towtruck with a plow. Mabe someday I'll do it.

My user homepage has a link to a webpage that I built sometime ago, that shows a bunch of pictures of the Nitro version. It may be of some help. If I can be of any other help just ask.
I did get a chance to look at your webpage, very nice.
I did take a quick loook at the links you had listed. I had never ran across those, thanks for sharing them. Looks like a good deal of ideas and modifications there.
You have no idea how hard it was to find those two webpages... :D

Hope this helps you. If not, just give me a yell. Talk with ya all later.
Will do! And thanks for all of your help. :)

[EC-EXCURSION]

I have a third EP version
If you don't mind, could you please explain the different versions of Blizzard's and the differences between them?

[blaneo]

When I said "I have a third EP version", I meant that I have three Bliizzards. To set things right, I will reinventory. I have 1- Nitro Blizzad, 1- DX Blizzard, 1- EP Blizzard. Now I will try to explain the different versions that were or are available. I have found a new one that I have a picture of from an old brochure. I am trying to upload the pcture I have taken, but I seem to be stupid with the new system they are using. I will keep trying and get it posted on here when able. The dates are appoximate.

1. The Blizzard: This is the one I found in the old brochure. It appears to be dated around 1989. It had 2- RS380 drive motors. And it had twin stepless speed controls, that controled forward and reverse. It also states that it had differential steering. I'm not following them here. I'm not sure if they are talking about the differentials that are in the later EV and Nitro versions or if they are talking about the rear gear box/differential from the DX version. The speed controls were probably the same as the DX version. This model came with a snow blade and a cab interior like the DX version. Now here is the kicker on this version. It has what appears as a rear spoiler that is mounted at about the same height as the cab. It angles from the rear of the chassis upward. There is also a drum mounted between the bracing for this. It could also be some sort of groomer that could possibly be lowered behind the Blizzard. It looks like the same one piece body as the DX version. It has white wheels with rubber tires. Oh yeah, and it has a driver. Which I could find one of these.

2. Blizzard DX with Plow: Came out around 1990. It had 2-380RS motors and two stepless speed controls. One speed control gave you forward or reverse, the other sent power to one or the other motor for steering, or sent power to both motors to drive straight. It has a rear gearbox/differential that allowd for two speeds by switching to different gears. Both sets of gears were mounted on the drive shafts, you simply decide which gear you want and tighten it down on the shaft by means of a set screw. Both motors are mounted in this gearbox, and they both have they own set of gears. It came with an alluminum plow blade that could be raised and lowered by means of a third servo. It has a one piece body almost identical to the Nitro and EV versions. It also has a cab interior. No driver. It came with orange wheels with rubber tires. There is no way to easily swap motors on these early electrics. I have done it with success and I have been working on fabricating parts for retofits. It's a tight fit but they do work

3. Heavy Metal Monster Tank: Came out around 1990 also. It was the same as the DX version, except that it didn't have the plow blade and it came with a Ford Van Body. It came with chrome wheels. This was a very nice change from routine. I also believe this where the HIGHLY controversal EP version came from later.

4. Blizzard EP: This version is the same as the DX version only it doesn't have the snow blade. I have been assualted on this one. Most people say there was no EP, but I can remember distinctly that there was. I remember cause I couldn't figure why any one would buy one without the blade just to say a few bucks.

5. Nitro Blizzard: Don't remember when it came out, middle 90's. It came with a GS 11R engine. Power was transmitted through the QRC two speed transmission with the option of reverse. Power then went through a geared differential before getting to the drive axles. Each drive axle is equipped with a brake to control steering. It has a two piece body to simplify starting and maintenance of the engine. No interior. It had chrome wheels. Engines can and have been swapped.

6. Blizzard EV: Sister to the Nitro version, only in electric. Same type of setup and drive system. I believe it used a 27t motor. A 23T motor was listed as an option, so swapping motors wouldn't be a problem. It also came with the two piece body. I imagine the placement of the motor restricted using the one piece body and interior. It had chrome wheels.

Whew! Can I breath now? I hope my speeling is correct, cause I ain't going back through this. Hope this helped. Blane

[EC-EXCURSION]

Thank you for you explination blaneo, that cleared up most of the confusion I was having. :)

[EC-EXCURSION]

Well I finnaly got around to placing an order. I ordered a nitro blizzard from RCmart.com (http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=420_328&products_id=4895&PHPSESSID=6f5b877d6af9756b7a397d7bc475f182) , they have a slow website but I have heard good things about them. I didnt realise shipping was going to be $50! But I ordered from them anyway because it still came out to be the cheapest place. And if anyone is planning on buying a nitro blizzard from them I would recomend paying via paypal if you can. If you pay by credit card there is a "Non-Refundable Bank Charge" that costs $12... I am still very happy with my purchase!

I cant wait for my nitro blizzard to arrive! :)

[blaneo]

As with most R/C vehicles these come in a very large heavy box. I am not sure where they are based at, but I know I paid $43.00 to have my DX version shipped from Japan a couple of years ago. So I don't think it is to far off. Give a shout once you get it.

[EC-EXCURSION]

Guess what came in my mail today? :D Thats right, my nitro blizzard! Its been 7 days since I ordered it and sure enuff, here it is. Unfortunately all I can do is stare at it.. I have so much work to do and have little free time this week. Perhaps on the weekend I can get around to building it. :rolleyes:

And if anyone else is planning on ordering a nitro blizzard from RC mart, the mail tracking is a little screwy... So just wait 7-10 days and it should be at your door. If not, then you can E-mail them and get it all sorted out.

[EC-EXCURSION]

Well its the weekend... :D I am going to start building it. Is there anything I should know before I start to build it? Is there anything I should watch out for or do differently?

[AdamB]

Hi,
I've been enjoying this thread. I thought I was the only one....
I dug it it out again and started cleaning it and I'm looking to put in a rebuilt OS cz-r our get a new cs 11r. Anyone figure out how to get an os in there and does the gs 11r drop right in??

[EC-EXCURSION]

Hurray! Someone else with a NB! :)

What happened to you blaneo... Post something...

[blaneo]

Well good morning everyone. First off, I must apologize for not posting. I hadn't gotten any email notifications that anyone had posted. But this morning I just happened to drop in, and viola.

Adam B:
Glad to have you aboard with us. The GS11r will drop right in the deck plate of the Blizzard, the GS15r also will. There is a conversion block piece available that alows an O.S. engine to be mounted the same way as the GS engines are. I picked one up from tower hobbies. I can dig up the number for it if you can't find it.

EC:
Glad to hear that you did get your Blizzard. I was wondering why you hadn't said anything about it,LOL. Is it done yet? There really ain't much to getting it put together. I do have a modification for the steering, but I would wait and see what yours does before doing it.

Well I gotta go, I gotta a store to open. I will check back later and check things out and maybe add something. Have a Blizzardily day. Ain't it great having something that makes you wish it would snow!

[EC-EXCURSION]

He lives! :D

I have decided that I hate Self-tapping (TP) screws. Do you know how much my hands hurt after putting the gas tank in?! Unfortunately my NB isn't done yet. I got as far in the build as I could, I still need my radio (That’s step 16 of 41, just in case your wondering.). I am a procrastinator and waited til Saturday to order the radio system. :o I suppose it will be here by the end of the week (hurry up tower!).

I do hope it snows within the next week or two. Not only am I wanting to see my blizzard in a blizzard, I have a ski trip planned in two weeks and it hasn’t snowed yet. :eek: Perhaps we will have a late winter and I will be enjoying my NB up till my birthday (the end of May). :D

But who knows such things...

[AdamB]

Well good morning everyone. First off, I must apologize for not posting. I hadn't gotten any email notifications that anyone had posted. But this morning I just happened to drop in, and viola.

Adam B:
Glad to have you aboard with us. The GS11r will drop right in the deck plate of the Blizzard, the GS15r also will. There is a conversion block piece available that alows an O.S. engine to be mounted the same way as the GS engines are. I picked one up from tower hobbies. I can dig up the number for it if you can't find it.


EC:
Glad to hear that you did get your Blizzard. I was wondering why you hadn't said anything about it,LOL. Is it done yet? There really ain't much to getting it put together. I do have a modification for the steering, but I would wait and see what yours does before doing it.

Well I gotta go, I gotta a store to open. I will check back later and check things out and maybe add something. Have a Blizzardily day. Ain't it great having something that makes you wish it would snow!

Thanks for the response Blaneo!
Here are the two engine mounts I saw at Tower...

LXU171 Kyosho Engine Mount O.S. SandNaster

LXU174 Kyosho Engine Mount RS/ZR/RM/OR/TH

Which one do you think it is? The one with two blocks looks like I would have to do some milling/drilling but the other one looks like it will work? Also do you know if the flywheel that comes with the blizzards gs-11x fits on the os engines (cv-x)? How is the gear mesh and spacing?
Thank-you so much,
Adam

[blaneo]

Back again. Wow, twice in one day! I have been trying for a while now to get the picture of the mystery Blizzard posted here, but to no avail. Apparently I am no longer able to add pictures directly from my camera. Or I am doing something wrong. Anyway I have added the picture to my webpage, it is at the very bottom. Check it out if you like.

http://community.webtv.net/monsters4ever/BlanesTrucksandStuff


The webpage has been cut down due to space limitations for a bit. It now serves only the Blizzard. I am going to go and find those engine mounts and then I will post the number. I beleive mine are from O.S. no Kyosho. Back in a bit

[EC-EXCURSION]

I have seen your "mystery blizzard" before, in fact, I see it more often than kyosho nitro blizzards. I am not sure of the name, so I am going to do some more research. (Well, actually I know the name, but im not sure if its the same in english) And here is another picture of your "mystery blizzard".

Note: This RC has been modified a little...

http://pistenraupe.de/Geisler12.jpg

Hmm... I guess the picture is working... Let me know if its not.

[EC-EXCURSION]

Alright, I have confirmed my original thoughts. Your "mystery blizzard" is *drum roll* A Graupner PistenBully! If you want to read the information I have found, its on this page. Graupner PistenBully (http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.pistenraupe.de/Graupner.html&prev=/search%3Fq%3DGraupner%2BPistenbully%26hl%3Den%26lr %3D%26safe%3Doff) :cool:

[blaneo]

Okay, I screwed up the link for my webpage. This is correct:
http://community-2.webtv.net/monsters4ever/BlanesTrucksandStuff/

Adam B:
Well search as I did, I did not find my engine mounts nor the part numbers, the only thing I did find was the fact that I really need to clean my garage and workshop. They are not listed at Tower either. I did look at the ones you mentioned. The LXU 174 set is very similiar to the O.S. set that I have. The only modification I was going to need to do was to drill new holes in the deck plate for the correct spacing of the mounts. The O.S. engine that I am planing on using has it's own flywheel, and it appeared that the gear mesh would line up just fine with the Blizzard cluch bell once the new holes were drilled to space the engine. I will do some more digging on Weds. or Thurs. and find the engines and mounts and do some more studying of them.

EC:
Yep, I have trouble with those ST screws also. Did you try to screw them in to each piece before actual assembly? Sometimes that helps. We haven't had any snow yet. We usually get some by halloween, but not this year. Just as well, I still haven't gotten the Blizzards checked out. It's been getting colder and harder frosts in the mornings, maybe that will spur some snow.

[blaneo]

why isn't my link coming out?

http://community-2.webtv.net/monsters4ever/BlanesTrucksandStuff/

[blaneo]

Okay so have either of you seen this model available anywhere? And what were they actually used for? Picture is fine.

[EC-EXCURSION]

The link seems to be working for me. Well... This is the page I get.

http://community-2.webtv.net/monsters4ever/BlanesTrucksandStuff/

And this is probably the link you wanted to post.

http://community-2.webtv.net/monsters4ever/BlanesTrucksandStuff/page2.html

I have seen the Graupner PistenBully available on ebay.de, they usually have a few on sale. And what do you mean "What were they actually used for"? Well its an RC car, usually its for entertainment purposes. I suppose you could make money racing it but chances are its just part of your hobby.

And yes, I did find that screwing them in to each piece before assembly helps a lot.

[blaneo]

I meant the full size vehicle, not the r/c model.

[AdamB]

Okay, I screwed up the link for my webpage. This is correct:
http://community-2.webtv.net/monsters4ever/BlanesTrucksandStuff/

Adam B:
Well search as I did, I did not find my engine mounts nor the part numbers, the only thing I did find was the fact that I really need to clean my garage and workshop. They are not listed at Tower either. I did look at the ones you mentioned. The LXU 174 set is very similiar to the O.S. set that I have. The only modification I was going to need to do was to drill new holes in the deck plate for the correct spacing of the mounts. The O.S. engine that I am planing on using has it's own flywheel, and it appeared that the gear mesh would line up just fine with the Blizzard cluch bell once the new holes were drilled to space the engine. I will do some more digging on Weds. or Thurs. and find the engines and mounts and do some more studying of them.

EC:
Yep, I have trouble with those ST screws also. Did you try to screw them in to each piece before actual assembly? Sometimes that helps. We haven't had any snow yet. We usually get some by halloween, but not this year. Just as well, I still haven't gotten the Blizzards checked out. It's been getting colder and harder frosts in the mornings, maybe that will spur some snow.

Thanks,
It looks like the only engine tower has, that will drop in without modification, is the kyosho gs 11r. The the kyosho gx 15cr and gx 12cr have the kyosho 3 hole mount posts on them but they have the new style flywheel spacer that looks like it wouldn't line up on the blizzard?
I would love to put an os in but if it's to much trouble I'll get the gs 11r.

any more thoughts?

I'd love to hear your break mod. also the last time I had it running (late 90's) I used thin sheet rubber for break pads and scuffed up the disk with sand paper. I also used a small piece of fuel tubing instead of the springs on the rod. It worked great until the fuel leeks started on the old gs 11x.
Also I use to run a tuned pipe, from an old inferno 10, out the back window and it helped out a lot with power and speed but it also led to me abusing the thing a little to much and I'm paying for it now. I just want it back to being a nice fun departure from my racing toys.
later guys,
Adam

Ec..I'm sure you already know your in for some fun! It's a close second to playing with tonkas in the sandbox all day when I was 5.

[EC-EXCURSION]

I meant the full size vehicle, not the r/c model.

:eek: How could you not know about snow cats? Haven’t you seen them at ski resorts before? They are the most wonderful vehicle ever created. They are like the bulldozer of the snow. They have wide tracks so they can go on the snow, a plow so they can push the snow and a "skirt" in the back to smooth out the snow. They also usually have a tiller in the back to grind up all the hard chunks of snow. Read more at www.pistenbully.com (http://www.pistenbully.com/english/index.php)

[EC-EXCURSION]

So here I am, halfway threw the build and am thinking about hundreds of modifications I can make to this remote control vehicle...

All of this talk about a new engine made me start to wonder. :rolleyes: So Adam, you say the only engine Tower has that will drop in is the Kyosho GS 11r. Well... Isnt that already the engine in the NB? I mean, it most certainly is in mine... On the side of the engine block I see these words: Kyosho GS11R , Is that the engine you have in your NB?

Have any of you thought about moving the gas tank on the other side of the stearing/breaking servo or where the battery holder is?

Have any of you thought about changing the body? So insted of the stock snowcat body, you could have a SUV or Truck body. Perhaps a Large scale sports car would work. And yes, I know the engine is in the front, which brings up another one of my questions. Have any of you tried running your NB backwards for a long time? Like if you inversed the throtle and strearing servo on your Pistol radio transmiter? If it works out well you could feasably put a different body on backwards.

Why do you guys not use "smilies"? :confused:

And... Uh... Sorry about my poor spelling. :(

[AdamB]

So here I am, halfway threw the build and am thinking about hundreds of modifications I can make to this remote control vehicle...




Have any of you thought about moving the gas tank on the other side of the stearing/breaking servo or where the battery holder is?

Have any of you thought about changing the body? So insted of the stock snowcat body, you could have a SUV or Truck body. Perhaps a Large scale sports car would work. And yes, I know the engine is in the front, which brings up another one of my questions. Have any of you tried running your NB backwards for a long time? Like if you inversed the throtle and strearing servo on your Pistol radio transmiter? If it works out well you could feasably put a different body on backwards.



Why do you guys not use "smilies"? :confused:

And... Uh... Sorry about my poor spelling. :(

Mine came with the gs11x back in the day. It has bushings and is not as nice, I guess, as the gs11r. I found a bracket on tower that lets you mount an os engine to the 3 hole kyosho system. I just like os engines but I'm not putting a huge engine in it. The blizzard just kind of has a certain speed it likes to go no matter what you doi to it. When I had a tuned pipe on it I just tore it up faster and had to fix it more often (drive wheel bending the side plate and eating gears). I think it's better as a fun rock crawler, hill climbing torque thing instead of a speed demon.
I haven't modified the layout at all. I found it climbs great with all the weight in the nose. Climbing down sucks though. I wish there were other bodies for it. I thought maybe trying one of hpi's truck bodies and losing tyhe roll bar and having the heat sink just stick out the hood of something? The body it came with is fine but after a while just taking it on and off with the velcro type attachment starts to tear it up in the corners.
One more thing....if you can get a high torque servo and metal servo horn for the brake/steering operations. It really helps the thing out.
later Adam

[EC-EXCURSION]

Interesting...

I think I have a problem with my brake/stearing setup. The right brake (flip the truck over and put the front of the truck away from you to get an idea of what "right" I ment) allways seems to be brakeing and I have loosened it all the way. It also doesnt seem to go as far back as the left brake. Could this be why it isnt working right? Is it possible I put some peice in backwards or got a sand grain or something stuck in there?

BTW, I am on vacation right now, so I cant work on my truck. I will have to wait till monday to tare it all down and take it apart.

[blaneo]

Rc Excursion:
Sure sounds like you either have something stuck in there or that something isn't adjusted right. Be sure to check your servo horn, and that it is centered as best possible. You seem to be on the right track though. Do you still have the manual? Let me know if you need any reminders. Also I would recommend that you run the vehicle the way it was built, before you make any modifications. This way you will have a better feel for what the new mods are actually doing for you. This babies really scoot on the snow and ice. As Adam stated, they do have plenty of traction. Oh, and I don't use smilies cause I never really think about, and I am usually in a hurry like now. Gotta go to work. See ya all, Blane

[EC-EXCURSION]

Thanks blaneo, When I get around to it I will take the brake apart to see why it isnt working right.

And you can call me "EC" if you want, it's shorter to write.

[EC-EXCURSION]

I am more or less done with the build. I still need to cut and paint the body but since I am terrible at painting and have never done any painting, I think I will save that for a later time... I also took apart the right brake mechinism and everything looked normal. When I put it back together it seemed a little better. Maybe it will fix its self when I start running the truck. Maybe one of the rods are longer than the other, who knows... Anyway... When I get a chance to go to my LHS (Local Hobby Shop (im not sure if this forum uses that abreviation)) I will pick up nitro and a glow heater. (I just got out of the hobby a few months before I bought the Nitro blizzard, I sold everything I had.) I might also pick up a new air filter or at least some air filter oil while im there.

The winter seems to be waiting for me to finish my nitro blizzard. It hasent snowed much yet (only twice).

[blaneo]

EC:
Ha Ha don't ya just love body work. Get yourself a pair of body scissors and just take your time. You can run the Nitro without the body, but it can play some really mean tricks on you when it comes to engine temperatures. When you do the body make sure you cut out all the holes as they state in the manual. If not, when the body is on she will tend to run hot on ya. When the body is off it will run cold on ya. Kind of a catch 22, if you know what I mean.

And be sure to use filter oil. No matter how carefull you are, snow is going to get inside. The last thing you want is moisture getting inside of that engine.

Plan on a lot of cleanup maintenance too. These things really throw the snow and it gets in everywhere. And fuel, it gets in places you didn't even know exisited. And these things pee! Make sure you sit them on a thick bed of towels. The muffler and the baffel at the back tend to hold spent fuel. That is until you walk away from them, then they pee all over whatever they are sitting on.

The steering is going to get weak as you run it, because the fuel and snow will get onto the brake discs and make them slippery. So be prepared. I usually set mine as close to enaging as I can get. I have a modification that I made to mine, I will give it to you. But I would really like to know how a brand new vehicle steers before I give it to you. My Nitro is old and I bought it secondhand, so I would like to know if it is just age or what. I do spend alot of time readjusting the linkage rods throughout the season, just get used to it.

Also get yourself some spray windshield deicer. I don't have much trouble with it, but the drive chains can become slushy and iced up really quick. And I mean really quick! A quick shot of the deicer will take care of it though. Something that I think helps mine is that I always seem to wipe them off with an old greasy rag. I don't know how it happens, but it does. So perhaps a bit of vaseline or petroleum jelly may help to keep the snow and ice from sticking to the chains.

And Q-tips, buy the big box! They are about the only thing I have found to get in under all those tight nooks and crannies.

I suppose I have you second guessing why you ever bought this thing to begin with, but don't give up on it. Just remember that this is a snow toy, it's totally different from anything else. You will soon be just like all the rest of us "sick freaks". In no time at all you'll be walking around singing "let it snow, let it snow, let it snow", whenever snow is in the forecast. I'm here for ya, so keep your stick on the ice.

[blaneo]

EC:
Ha Ha don't ya just love body work. Get yourself a pair of body scissors and just take your time. You can run the Nitro without the body, but it can play some really mean tricks on you when it comes to engine temperatures. When you do the body make sure you cut out all the holes as they state in the manual. If not, when the body is on she will tend to run hot on ya. When the body is off it will run cold on ya. Kind of a catch 22, if you know what I mean.

And be sure to use filter oil. No matter how carefull you are, snow is going to get inside. The last thing you want is moisture getting inside of that engine.

Plan on a lot of cleanup maintenance too. These things really throw the snow and it gets in everywhere. And fuel, it gets in places you didn't even know exisited. And these things pee! Make sure you sit them on a thick bed of towels. The muffler and the baffel at the back tend to hold spent fuel. That is until you walk away from them, then they pee all over whatever they are sitting on.

The steering is going to get weak as you run it, because the fuel and snow will get onto the brake discs and make them slippery. So be prepared. I usually set mine as close to enaging as I can get. I have a modification that I made to mine, I will give it to you. But I would really like to know how a brand new vehicle steers before I give it to you. My Nitro is old and I bought it secondhand, so I would like to know if it is just age or what. I do spend alot of time readjusting the linkage rods throughout the season, just get used to it.

Also get yourself some spray windshield deicer. I don't have much trouble with it, but the drive chains can become slushy and iced up really quick. And I mean really quick! A quick shot of the deicer will take care of it though. Something that I think helps mine is that I always seem to wipe them off with an old greasy rag. I don't know how it happens, but it does. So perhaps a bit of vaseline or petroleum jelly may help to keep the snow and ice from sticking to the chains.

And Q-tips, buy the big box! They are about the only thing I have found to get in under all those tight nooks and crannies.

I suppose I have you second guessing why you ever bought this thing to begin with, but don't give up on it. Just remember that this is a snow toy, it's totally different from anything else. You will soon be just like all the rest of us "sick freaks". In no time at all you'll be walking around singing "let it snow, let it snow, let it snow", whenever snow is in the forecast. I'm here for ya, so keep your stick on the ice.

[blaneo]

EC:
Ha Ha don't ya just love body work. Get yourself a pair of body scissors and just take your time. You can run the Nitro without the body, but it can play some really mean tricks on you when it comes to engine temperatures. When you do the body make sure you cut out all the holes as they state in the manual. If not, when the body is on she will tend to run hot on ya. When the body is off it will run cold on ya. Kind of a catch 22, if you know what I mean.

And be sure to use filter oil. No matter how carefull you are, snow is going to get inside. The last thing you want is moisture getting inside of that engine.

Plan on a lot of cleanup maintenance too. These things really throw the snow and it gets in everywhere. And fuel, it gets in places you didn't even know exisited. And these things pee! Make sure you sit them on a thick bed of towels. The muffler and the baffel at the back tend to hold spent fuel. That is until you walk away from them, then they pee all over whatever they are sitting on.

The steering is going to get weak as you run it, because the fuel and snow will get onto the brake discs and make them slippery. So be prepared. I usually set mine as close to enaging as I can get. I have a modification that I made to mine, I will give it to you. But I would really like to know how a brand new vehicle steers before I give it to you. My Nitro is old and I bought it secondhand, so I would like to know if it is just age or what. I do spend alot of time readjusting the linkage rods throughout the season, just get used to it.

Also get yourself some spray windshield deicer. I don't have much trouble with it, but the drive chains can become slushy and iced up really quick. And I mean really quick! A quick shot of the deicer will take care of it though. Something that I think helps mine is that I always seem to wipe them off with an old greasy rag. I don't know how it happens, but it does. So perhaps a bit of vaseline or petroleum jelly may help to keep the snow and ice from sticking to the chains.

And Q-tips, buy the big box! They are about the only thing I have found to get in under all those tight nooks and crannies.

I suppose I have you second guessing why you ever bought this thing to begin with, but don't give up on it. Just remember that this is a snow toy, it's totally different from anything else. You will soon be just like all the rest of us "sick freaks". In no time at all you'll be walking around singing "let it snow, let it snow, let it snow", whenever snow is in the forecast. I'm here for ya, so keep your stick on the ice.

p.s. I just got your message on the other thread. I wasn't refering to your post, it was in line with the thread. Sometimes we start jumping back and forth and things get mixed up thats all. No offense meant.

[blaneo]

EC:
Ha Ha don't ya just love body work. Get yourself a pair of body scissors and just take your time. You can run the Nitro without the body, but it can play some really mean tricks on you when it comes to engine temperatures. When you do the body make sure you cut out all the holes as they state in the manual. If not, when the body is on she will tend to run hot on ya. When the body is off it will run cold on ya. Kind of a catch 22, if you know what I mean.

And be sure to use filter oil. No matter how carefull you are, snow is going to get inside. The last thing you want is moisture getting inside of that engine.

Plan on a lot of cleanup maintenance too. These things really throw the snow and it gets in everywhere. And fuel, it gets in places you didn't even know exisited. And these things pee! Make sure you sit them on a thick bed of towels. The muffler and the baffel at the back tend to hold spent fuel. That is until you walk away from them, then they pee all over whatever they are sitting on.

The steering is going to get weak as you run it, because the fuel and snow will get onto the brake discs and make them slippery. So be prepared. I usually set mine as close to enaging as I can get. I have a modification that I made to mine, I will give it to you. But I would really like to know how a brand new vehicle steers before I give it to you. My Nitro is old and I bought it secondhand, so I would like to know if it is just age or what. I do spend alot of time readjusting the linkage rods throughout the season, just get used to it.

Also get yourself some spray windshield deicer. I don't have much trouble with it, but the drive chains can become slushy and iced up really quick. And I mean really quick! A quick shot of the deicer will take care of it though. Something that I think helps mine is that I always seem to wipe them off with an old greasy rag. I don't know how it happens, but it does. So perhaps a bit of vaseline or petroleum jelly may help to keep the snow and ice from sticking to the chains.

And Q-tips, buy the big box! They are about the only thing I have found to get in under all those tight nooks and crannies.

I suppose I have you second guessing why you ever bought this thing to begin with, but don't give up on it. Just remember that this is a snow toy, it's totally different from anything else. You will soon be just like all the rest of us "sick freaks". In no time at all you'll be walking around singing "let it snow, let it snow, let it snow", whenever snow is in the forecast. I'm here for ya, so keep your stick on the ice.

p.s. I just got your message on the other thread. I wasn't refering to your post, it was in line with the thread. Sometimes we start jumping back and forth and things get mixed up thats all. No offense meant to anyone.

[blaneo]

EC:
Ha Ha don't ya just love body work. Get yourself a pair of body scissors and just take your time. You can run the Nitro without the body, but it can play some really mean tricks on you when it comes to engine temperatures. When you do the body make sure you cut out all the holes as they state in the manual. If not, when the body is on she will tend to run hot on ya. When the body is off it will run cold on ya. Kind of a catch 22, if you know what I mean.

And be sure to use filter oil. No matter how carefull you are, snow is going to get inside. The last thing you want is moisture getting inside of that engine.

Plan on a lot of cleanup maintenance too. These things really throw the snow and it gets in everywhere. And fuel, it gets in places you didn't even know exisited. And these things pee! Make sure you sit them on a thick bed of towels. The muffler and the baffel at the back tend to hold spent fuel. That is until you walk away from them, then they pee all over whatever they are sitting on.

The steering is going to get weak as you run it, because the fuel and snow will get onto the brake discs and make them slippery. So be prepared. I usually set mine as close to enaging as I can get. I have a modification that I made to mine, I will give it to you. But I would really like to know how a brand new vehicle steers before I give it to you. My Nitro is old and I bought it secondhand, so I would like to know if it is just age or what. I do spend alot of time readjusting the linkage rods throughout the season, just get used to it.

Also get yourself some spray windshield deicer. I don't have much trouble with it, but the drive chains can become slushy and iced up really quick. And I mean really quick! A quick shot of the deicer will take care of it though. Something that I think helps mine is that I always seem to wipe them off with an old greasy rag. I don't know how it happens, but it does. So perhaps a bit of vaseline or petroleum jelly may help to keep the snow and ice from sticking to the chains.

And Q-tips, buy the big box! They are about the only thing I have found to get in under all those tight nooks and crannies.

I suppose I have you second guessing why you ever bought this thing to begin with, but don't give up on it. Just remember that this is a snow toy, it's totally different from anything else. You will soon be just like all the rest of us "sick freaks". In no time at all you'll be walking around singing "let it snow, let it snow, let it snow", whenever snow is in the forecast. I'm here for ya, so keep your stick on the ice.

[blaneo]

EC:
Ha Ha don't ya just love body work. Get yourself a pair of body scissors and just take your time. You can run the Nitro without the body, but it can play some really mean tricks on you when it comes to engine temperatures. When you do the body make sure you cut out all the holes as they state in the manual. If not, when the body is on she will tend to run hot on ya. When the body is off it will run cold on ya. Kind of a catch 22, if you know what I mean.

And be sure to use filter oil. No matter how carefull you are, snow is going to get inside. The last thing you want is moisture getting inside of that engine.

Plan on a lot of cleanup maintenance too. These things really throw the snow and it gets in everywhere. And fuel, it gets in places you didn't even know exisited. And these things pee! Make sure you sit them on a thick bed of towels. The muffler and the baffel at the back tend to hold spent fuel. That is until you walk away from them, then they pee all over whatever they are sitting on.

The steering is going to get weak as you run it, because the fuel and snow will get onto the brake discs and make them slippery. So be prepared. I usually set mine as close to enaging as I can get. I have a modification that I made to mine, I will give it to you. But I would really like to know how a brand new vehicle steers before I give it to you. My Nitro is old and I bought it secondhand, so I would like to know if it is just age or what. I do spend alot of time readjusting the linkage rods throughout the season, just get used to it.

Also get yourself some spray windshield deicer. I don't have much trouble with it, but the drive chains can become slushy and iced up really quick. And I mean really quick! A quick shot of the deicer will take care of it though. Something that I think helps mine is that I always seem to wipe them off with an old greasy rag. I don't know how it happens, but it does. So perhaps a bit of vaseline or petroleum jelly may help to keep the snow and ice from sticking to the chains.

And Q-tips, buy the big box! They are about the only thing I have found to get in under all those tight nooks and crannies.

I suppose I have you second guessing why you ever bought this thing to begin with, but don't give up on it. Just remember that this is a snow toy, it's totally different from anything else. You will soon be just like all the rest of us "sick freaks". In no time at all you'll be walking around singing "let it snow, let it snow, let it snow", whenever snow is in the forecast. I'm here for ya, so keep your stick on the ice.

p.s. I just got your message on the other thread. I wasn't refering to your post, it was in line with the thread. Sometimes we start jumping back and forth and things get mixed up thats all. No offense meant to anyone.

[blaneo]

EC:
Ha Ha don't ya just love body work. Get yourself a pair of body scissors and just take your time. You can run the Nitro without the body, but it can play some really mean tricks on you when it comes to engine temperatures. When you do the body make sure you cut out all the holes as they state in the manual. If not, when the body is on she will tend to run hot on ya. When the body is off it will run cold on ya. Kind of a catch 22, if you know what I mean.

And be sure to use filter oil. No matter how carefull you are, snow is going to get inside. The last thing you want is moisture getting inside of that engine.

Plan on a lot of cleanup maintenance too. These things really throw the snow and it gets in everywhere. And fuel, it gets in places you didn't even know exisited. And these things pee! Make sure you sit them on a thick bed of towels. The muffler and the baffel at the back tend to hold spent fuel. That is until you walk away from them, then they pee all over whatever they are sitting on.

The steering is going to get weak as you run it, because the fuel and snow will get onto the brake discs and make them slippery. So be prepared. I usually set mine as close to enaging as I can get. I have a modification that I made to mine, I will give it to you. But I would really like to know how a brand new vehicle steers before I give it to you. My Nitro is old and I bought it secondhand, so I would like to know if it is just age or what. I do spend alot of time readjusting the linkage rods throughout the season, just get used to it.

Also get yourself some spray windshield deicer. I don't have much trouble with it, but the drive chains can become slushy and iced up really quick. And I mean really quick! A quick shot of the deicer will take care of it though. Something that I think helps mine is that I always seem to wipe them off with an old greasy rag. I don't know how it happens, but it does. So perhaps a bit of vaseline or petroleum jelly may help to keep the snow and ice from sticking to the chains.

And Q-tips, buy the big box! They are about the only thing I have found to get in under all those tight nooks and crannies.

I suppose I have you second guessing why you ever bought this thing to begin with, but don't give up on it. Just remember that this is a snow toy, it's totally different from anything else. You will soon be just like all the rest of us "sick freaks". In no time at all you'll be walking around singing "let it snow, let it snow, let it snow", whenever snow is in the forecast. I'm here for ya, so keep your stick on the ice.

[EC-EXCURSION]

Excellent ,excellent, excellent!

Your post was everything I was hoping to hear! (Well, maybe everything except the body work part.) But since I brought up the subject... Did you cut out a 2 inch hole in the windshield where the engine is? Or should I just cut out the side windows like the manual says? I have a lot of time to decide what I want to do, as the body work is at the end of my to do list.

Did you do anything to your Nitro blizzard to help "weather protect" it? As in filling holes, putting the electronics in a balloon or other enclosure, ect.. I can imagine lots of snow will get in their.

Hehe, I was laughing when you were talking about the truck peeing. I had never heard anyone talking about RC cars use that term before. A towel is a good idea, I wouldn’t have thought of that right off the bat.

I already have many boxes of Q-tips. Every week I would tare down my other RC cars and clean them with Q-tips, I can’t stand having a dirty truck. Maintenance is nothing new to me, and that’s what I was hoping for with this truck. I actually don’t like racing/bashing/driving by myself with my trucks. To me RC cars are working models. I enjoy building them, repairing them, and improving upon their original design.

Well its good news that the steering will get weaker the longer I run it. It still seems a little tight. Just out of curiosity, does your truck have rubber inserts on the metal brake pads? Mine does... And I was just wondering if that could be the reason why your steering seems so weak.

No, I am not second guessing why I bought my Nitro Blizzard. (Although I am wondering why I didn’t buy a used one off ebay for $200 less...)

And I always say "let it snow, let it snow". Winter is my favorite time of the year, and snow is one of my favorite things in life. I can’t wait to be out their playing with my nitro blizzard in the snow. I’m going to set up a steep snow pile and see if I can get the blizzard to tip over. I wonder if it can go off jumps... Have you tried building a little 6" jump out of snow for the blizzard?

It feels like I’m forgetting something... Oh yeah, in the manual it tells me to put these little rubber things on the tracks. They are the same things that should be under the body. I don’t know if I should put them on or not. It requires gluing them to the tracks and I don’t think it will make any benefit really; I am not going to be running the Nitro blizzard on any hard surfaces, because I can’t get replacement tracks. And right now I am too lazy to make my own tracks out of aluminum.

I will probably get to my LHS Friday and break in the engine next weekend.

[blaneo]

Okay this site is messin' with me again. I can't seem to post. I guess I will try to divide my post.

[blaneo]

EC:
On my original body it is cut out in the front, the right window, and the back slots. The engine temp with this body stays pretty well in range. But I do get more snow inside. My second body has both side windows cut out, and the back slots. This one seems to run a tad bit hotter. But it stays cleaner, and I have access to both the pull start and the fuel tank. For me it is easier to use the pull start from the side window then from the front. I do think I will be enlarging the back slots a little to let the heat escape better.

Be cautious with the cutting though. Too much open air and your engine will run cold. You want your engine temp to be about the same as if it was an engine running in spring or summer. I have heard a lot people say that they will naturally run cooler because it is a winter vehicle. I have found that to be false. The engine compartment is much more enclosed on the blizzard then on most other vehicles, and the air flow isn't anywhere near the same. I think that is whythey have it designed this way. I hate cold engines, they never seem to run right. They just run around burping and stalling out. You also need to take into fact where you live. Somebody in Alaska is going to need it more closed up then myself in Ohio, just because the average air temp is colder.

I have tried using window screening over the openings to keep some of the snow out. Welp, let's just say it didn't work to well for me, LOL. The snow just stuck to the screening and the airflow was really constricted, it got really hot! I don't use balloons or seal anything up. Back at the receiver it really doesn't get much moisture. I would much rather have air moving over something that is wet then to have it sealed up in something wet. And I like be able to get it open quick so that I can give it a quick shot of air and some heat.

One other thing that is helpful is acetone. I'm sure you have used it before, if not say so and I'll explain. Oh yea, the recoil on these seem to get alot of fuel in them, the acetone helps alot. Just squirt it around the hole and pull the rope, it'll clear it, in no time. Something else I use, I made myself. I shouldn't mention this as I could probably make a kazillion dollars marketing them. I take sponges and cut them into 1 inch cubes. then I take 1/8" dowel rods and break them into 6 inch lengths. I add a dab of silicone sealer to the end and shove them into the sponge cubes gluing them to the sticks. These things are great for getting into the nooks and crannies, and they will absorb moisture and fuel.

I would leave the rubber nubs off of the tracks. They are there for running on hard surfaces. They do help alot though on dirt and grass, more then you would think. The last time I looked, Tower Hobbies still had them listed as available. I would get an extra set if feasible. Don't want a broken track keep you from having fun.

Your steering is tight now because it isn't soaked with melted snow and fuel!!! Wait and see what happens, LOL. Steering on mine drops to about 10% after a few minutes, that's when it gets really fun. I do have the pads on mine. I (and others) have done a bit of expierementing with other materials for the pads. Seems like the same results happen with most everything. The original pads don't seem to wear out, they just get wet. Once it all dries out it's okay again for a few minutes.

You wanna jump with this?..........Okay I just got myself calmed a bit. I peed my pants from laughing so hard, but that will have to wait. The nose on these are so heavy. I think it would be really hard to jump on purpose. Ocassionally we get lucky and hit a drift or a bump just right and they will launch forward, and drop flat, and zoom off. It's really cool when they do that. But I'll let you find out for yourself, you gonna try anyway. The most amazing thing about these vehicles, is that they will literally lift themselves onto the top of snow. You can have 8 inches of the softest fluffiest snow that a feather would sink into, and yet these babies will just scoot across the top like a boat across water. Oh, if you have kids or little siblings around nearby. Tell them a snow monster moved into your yard and is living under the snow, and that he eats little kids that walk through the snow covered yard. Blizzards don't seem to like the holes left behind by footsteps.

I don't know what you paid for your Blizzard, I know I paid dearly for all Of mine. I did get mine off of eBay but I was lucky that all the previous owners loved these vehicles and took excellant care of them. Some of them are junk (I didn't say all), or in need of some serious repair, and you would have spent $200 getting it back in good shape. You'll be glad you did spend the money for a Brand New one! One bad thing about it, You can't blame the previous owner for anything that goes wrong, LOL.

[blaneo]

EC:
On my original body it is cut out in the front, the right window, and the back slots. The engine temp with this body stays pretty well in range. But I do get more snow inside. My second body has both side windows cut out, and the back slots. This one seems to run a tad bit hotter. But it stays cleaner, and I have access to both the pull start and the fuel tank. For me it is easier to use the pull start from the side window then from the front. I do think I will be enlarging the back slots a little to let the heat escape better.

Be cautious with the cutting though. Too much open air and your engine will run cold. You want your engine temp to be about the same as if it was an engine running in spring or summer. I have heard a lot people say that they will naturally run cooler because it is a winter vehicle. I have found that to be false. The engine compartment is much more enclosed on the blizzard then on most other vehicles, and the air flow isn't anywhere near the same. I think that is whythey have it designed this way. I hate cold engines, they never seem to run right. They just run around burping and stalling out. You also need to take into fact where you live. Somebody in Alaska is going to need it more closed up then myself in Ohio, just because the average air temp is colder.

I have tried using window screening over the openings to keep some of the snow out. Welp, let's just say it didn't work to well for me, LOL. The snow just stuck to the screening and the airflow was really constricted, it got really hot! I don't use balloons or seal anything up. Back at the receiver it really doesn't get much moisture. I would much rather have air moving over something that is wet then to have it sealed up in something wet. And I like be able to get it open quick so that I can give it a quick shot of air and some heat.

One other thing that is helpful is acetone. I'm sure you have used it before, if not say so and I'll explain. Oh yea, the recoil on these seem to get alot of fuel in them, the acetone helps alot. Just squirt it around the hole and pull the rope, it'll clear it, in no time. Something else I use, I made myself. I shouldn't mention this as I could probably make a kazillion dollars marketing them. I take sponges and cut them into 1 inch cubes. then I take 1/8" dowel rods and break them into 6 inch lengths. I add a dab of silicone sealer to the end and shove them into the sponge cubes gluing them to the sticks. These things are great for getting into the nooks and crannies, and they will absorb moisture and fuel.

I would leave the rubber nubs off of the tracks. They are there for running on hard surfaces. They do help alot though on dirt and grass, more then you would think. The last time I looked, Tower Hobbies still had them listed as available. I would get an extra set if feasible. Don't want a broken track keep you from having fun.

Your steering is tight now because it isn't soaked with melted snow and fuel!!! Wait and see what happens, LOL. Steering on mine drops to about 10% after a few minutes, that's when it gets really fun. I do have the pads on mine. I (and others) have done a bit of expierementing with other materials for the pads. Seems like the same results happen with most everything. The original pads don't seem to wear out, they just get wet. Once it all dries out it's okay again for a few minutes.

You wanna jump with this?..........Okay I just got myself calmed a bit. I peed my pants from laughing so hard, but that will have to wait. The nose on these are so heavy. I think it would be really hard to jump on purpose. Ocassionally we get lucky and hit a drift or a bump just right and they will launch forward, and drop flat, and zoom off. It's really cool when they do that. But I'll let you find out for yourself, you gonna try anyway. The most amazing thing about these vehicles, is that they will literally lift themselves onto the top of snow. You can have 8 inches of the softest fluffiest snow that a feather would sink into, and yet these babies will just scoot across the top like a boat across water. Oh, if you have kids or little siblings around nearby. Tell them a snow monster moved into your yard and is living under the snow, and that he eats little kids that walk through the snow covered yard. Blizzards don't seem to like the holes left behind by footsteps.

I don't know what you paid for your Blizzard, I know I paid dearly for all Of mine. I did get mine off of eBay but I was lucky that all the previous owners loved these vehicles and took excellant care of them. Some of them are junk (I didn't say all), or in need of some serious repair, and you would have spent $200 getting it back in good shape. You'll be glad you did spend the money for a Brand New one! One bad thing about it, You can't blame the previous owner for anything that goes wrong, LOL.

[blaneo]

EC:
On my original body it is cut out in the front, the right window, and the back slots. The engine temp with this body stays pretty well in range. But I do get more snow inside. My second body has both side windows cut out, and the back slots. This one seems to run a tad bit hotter. But it stays cleaner, and I have access to both the pull start and the fuel tank. For me it is easier to use the pull start from the side window then from the front. I do think I will be enlarging the back slots a little to let the heat escape better.

Be cautious with the cutting though. Too much open air and your engine will run cold. You want your engine temp to be about the same as if it was an engine running in spring or summer. I have heard a lot people say that they will naturally run cooler because it is a winter vehicle. I have found that to be false. The engine compartment is much more enclosed on the blizzard then on most other vehicles, and the air flow isn't anywhere near the same. I think that is whythey have it designed this way. I hate cold engines, they never seem to run right. They just run around burping and stalling out. You also need to take into fact where you live. Somebody in Alaska is going to need it more closed up then myself in Ohio, just because the average air temp is colder.

I have tried using window screening over the openings to keep some of the snow out. Welp, let's just say it didn't work to well for me, LOL. The snow just stuck to the screening and the airflow was really constricted, it got really hot! I don't use balloons or seal anything up. Back at the receiver it really doesn't get much moisture. I would much rather have air moving over something that is wet then to have it sealed up in something wet. And I like be able to get it open quick so that I can give it a quick shot of air and some heat.

One other thing that is helpful is acetone. I'm sure you have used it before, if not say so and I'll explain. Oh yea, the recoil on these seem to get alot of fuel in them, the acetone helps alot. Just squirt it around the hole and pull the rope, it'll clear it, in no time. Something else I use, I made myself. I shouldn't mention this as I could probably make a kazillion dollars marketing them. I take sponges and cut them into 1 inch cubes. then I take 1/8" dowel rods and break them into 6 inch lengths. I add a dab of silicone sealer to the end and shove them into the sponge cubes gluing them to the sticks. These things are great for getting into the nooks and crannies, and they will absorb moisture and fuel.

I would leave the rubber nubs off of the tracks. They are there for running on hard surfaces. They do help alot though on dirt and grass, more then you would think. The last time I looked, Tower Hobbies still had them listed as available. I would get an extra set if feasible. Don't want a broken track keep you from having fun.

Your steering is tight now because it isn't soaked with melted snow and fuel!!! Wait and see what happens, LOL. Steering on mine drops to about 10% after a few minutes, that's when it gets really fun. I do have the pads on mine. I (and others) have done a bit of expierementing with other materials for the pads. Seems like the same results happen with most everything. The original pads don't seem to wear out, they just get wet. Once it all dries out it's okay again for a few minutes.

You wanna jump with this?..........Okay I just got myself calmed a bit. I peed my pants from laughing so hard, but that will have to wait. The nose on these are so heavy. I think it would be really hard to jump on purpose. Ocassionally we get lucky and hit a drift or a bump just right and they will launch forward, and drop flat, and zoom off. It's really cool when they do that. But I'll let you find out for yourself, you gonna try anyway. The most amazing thing about these vehicles, is that they will literally lift themselves onto the top of snow. You can have 8 inches of the softest fluffiest snow that a feather would sink into, and yet these babies will just scoot across the top like a boat across water. Oh, if you have kids or little siblings around nearby. Tell them a snow monster moved into your yard and is living under the snow, and that he eats little kids that walk through the snow covered yard. Blizzards don't seem to like the holes left behind by footsteps.

I don't know what you paid for your Blizzard, I know I paid dearly for all Of mine. I did get mine off of eBay but I was lucky that all the previous owners loved these vehicles and took excellant care of them. Some of them are junk (I didn't say all), or in need of some serious repair, and you would have spent $200 getting it back in good shape. You'll be glad you did spend the money for a Brand New one! One bad thing about it, You can't blame the previous owner for anything that goes wrong, LOL.

[blaneo]

What was the final mystery word on Friday night Wheel Of Fortune?

[blaneo]

EC:
On my original body it is cut out in the front, the right window, and the back slots. The engine temp with this body stays pretty well in range. But I do get more snow inside. My second body has both side windows cut out, and the back slots. This one seems to run a tad bit hotter. But it stays cleaner, and I have access to both the pull start and the fuel tank. For me it is easier to use the pull start from the side window then from the front. I do think I will be enlarging the back slots a little to let the heat escape better.

Be cautious with the cutting though. Too much open air and your engine will run cold. You want your engine temp to be about the same as if it was an engine running in spring or summer. I have heard a lot people say that they will naturally run cooler because it is a winter vehicle. I have found that to be false. The engine compartment is much more enclosed on the blizzard then on most other vehicles, and the air flow isn't anywhere near the same. I think that is whythey have it designed this way. I hate cold engines, they never seem to run right. They just run around burping and stalling out. You also need to take into fact where you live. Somebody in Alaska is going to need it more closed up then myself in Ohio, just because the average air temp is colder.

I have tried using window screening over the openings to keep some of the snow out. Welp, let's just say it didn't work to well for me, LOL. The snow just stuck to the screening and the airflow was really constricted, it got really hot! I don't use balloons or seal anything up. Back at the receiver it really doesn't get much moisture. I would much rather have air moving over something that is wet then to have it sealed up in something wet. And I like be able to get it open quick so that I can give it a quick shot of air and some heat.

One other thing that is helpful is acetone. I'm sure you have used it before, if not say so and I'll explain. Oh yea, the recoil on these seem to get alot of fuel in them, the acetone helps alot. Just squirt it around the hole and pull the rope, it'll clear it, in no time. Something else I use, I made myself. I shouldn't mention this as I could probably make a kazillion dollars marketing them. I take sponges and cut them into 1 inch cubes. then I take 1/8" dowel rods and break them into 6 inch lengths. I add a dab of silicone sealer to the end and shove them into the sponge cubes gluing them to the sticks. These things are great for getting into the nooks and crannies, and they will absorb moisture and fuel.

I would leave the rubber nubs off of the tracks. They are there for running on hard surfaces. They do help alot though on dirt and grass, more then you would think. The last time I looked, Tower Hobbies still had them listed as available. I would get an extra set if feasible. Don't want a broken track keep you from having fun.

Your steering is tight now because it isn't soaked with melted snow and fuel!!! Wait and see what happens, LOL. Steering on mine drops to about 10% after a few minutes, that's when it gets really fun. I do have the pads on mine. I (and others) have done a bit of expierementing with other materials for the pads. Seems like the same results happen with most everything. The original pads don't seem to wear out, they just get wet. Once it all dries out it's okay again for a few minutes.

You wanna jump with this?..........Okay I just got myself calmed a bit. I peed my pants from laughing so hard, but that will have to wait. The nose on these are so heavy. I think it would be really hard to jump on purpose. Ocassionally we get lucky and hit a drift or a bump just right and they will launch forward, and drop flat, and zoom off. It's really cool when they do that. But I'll let you find out for yourself, you gonna try anyway. The most amazing thing about these vehicles, is that they will literally lift themselves onto the top of snow. You can have 8 inches of the softest fluffiest snow that a feather would sink into, and yet these babies will just scoot across the top like a boat across water. Oh, if you have kids or little siblings around nearby. Tell them a snow monster moved into your yard and is living under the snow, and that he eats little kids that walk through the snow covered yard. Blizzards don't seem to like the holes left behind by footsteps.

I don't know what you paid for your Blizzard, I know I paid dearly for all Of mine. I did get mine off of eBay but I was lucky that all the previous owners loved these vehicles and took excellant care of them. Some of them are junk (I didn't say all), or in need of some serious repair, and you would have spent $200 getting it back in good shape. You'll be glad you did spend the money for a Brand New one! One bad thing about it, You can't blame the previous owner for anything that goes wrong, LOL.

[blaneo]

EC:
On my original body it is cut out in the front, the right window, and the back slots. The engine temp with this body stays pretty well in range. But I do get more snow inside. My second body has both side windows cut out, and the back slots. This one seems to run a tad bit hotter. But it stays cleaner, and I have access to both the pull start and the fuel tank. For me it is easier to use the pull start from the side window then from the front. I do think I will be enlarging the back slots a little to let the heat escape better.

Be cautious with the cutting though. Too much open air and your engine will run cold. You want your engine temp to be about the same as if it was an engine running in spring or summer. I have heard a lot people say that they will naturally run cooler because it is a winter vehicle. I have found that to be false. The engine compartment is much more enclosed on the blizzard then on most other vehicles, and the air flow isn't anywhere near the same. I think that is whythey have it designed this way. I hate cold engines, they never seem to run right. They just run around burping and stalling out. You also need to take into fact where you live. Somebody in Alaska is going to need it more closed up then myself in Ohio, just because the average air temp is colder.

I have tried using window screening over the openings to keep some of the snow out. Welp, let's just say it didn't work to well for me, LOL. The snow just stuck to the screening and the airflow was really constricted, it got really hot! I don't use balloons or seal anything up. Back at the receiver it really doesn't get much moisture. I would much rather have air moving over something that is wet then to have it sealed up in something wet. And I like be able to get it open quick so that I can give it a quick shot of air and some heat.

One other thing that is helpful is acetone. I'm sure you have used it before, if not say so and I'll explain. Oh yea, the recoil on these seem to get alot of fuel in them, the acetone helps alot. Just squirt it around the hole and pull the rope, it'll clear it, in no time. Something else I use, I made myself. I shouldn't mention this as I could probably make a kazillion dollars marketing them. I take sponges and cut them into 1 inch cubes. then I take 1/8" dowel rods and break them into 6 inch lengths. I add a dab of silicone sealer to the end and shove them into the sponge cubes gluing them to the sticks. These things are great for getting into the nooks and crannies, and they will absorb moisture and fuel.

I would leave the rubber nubs off of the tracks. They are there for running on hard surfaces. They do help alot though on dirt and grass, more then you would think. The last time I looked, Tower Hobbies still had them listed as available. I would get an extra set if feasible. Don't want a broken track keep you from having fun.

[blaneo]

EC:
On my original body it is cut out in the front, the right window, and the back slots. The engine temp with this body stays pretty well in range. But I do get more snow inside. My second body has both side windows cut out, and the back slots. This one seems to run a tad bit hotter. But it stays cleaner, and I have access to both the pull start and the fuel tank. For me it is easier to use the pull start from the side window then from the front. I do think I will be enlarging the back slots a little to let the heat escape better.

Be cautious with the cutting though. Too much open air and your engine will run cold. You want your engine temp to be about the same as if it was an engine running in spring or summer. I have heard a lot people say that they will naturally run cooler because it is a winter vehicle. I have found that to be false. The engine compartment is much more enclosed on the blizzard then on most other vehicles, and the air flow isn't anywhere near the same. I think that is whythey have it designed this way. I hate cold engines, they never seem to run right. They just run around burping and stalling out. You also need to take into fact where you live. Somebody in Alaska is going to need it more closed up then myself in Ohio, just because the average air temp is colder.

I have tried using window screening over the openings to keep some of the snow out. Welp, let's just say it didn't work to well for me, LOL. The snow just stuck to the screening and the airflow was really constricted, it got really hot! I don't use balloons or seal anything up. Back at the receiver it really doesn't get much moisture. I would much rather have air moving over something that is wet then to have it sealed up in something wet. And I like be able to get it open quick so that I can give it a quick shot of air and some heat.

[ChristianZx]

Mine came with a broken stock tank, do you guys know if there is an equivalent still available? The nipple part on the bottom has broken off. Thanks

[blaneo]

ChristianZx:
Hi, glad you joined us. I regret to inform you that a new tank may be a bit hard to find. I would check on eBay, but don't just look under "Blizzard". Try looking other places also. Some other Kyosho models to look for would be the Dodge Ram, Baja Beetle. These had different tanks, but they may work. There is one other thing you may be able to do. Check at your LHS, they will probably have a small threaded barb fitting that you can thread into the tank, and make it like new again. They may even have an elbow fitting if that would work better. I don't remember exactly how that comes out of the bottom. If the tank is cracked, head to the local auto parts store. They sell a two part epoxy that is designed to fix cracks and holes in the plastic fuel tanks on newer cars. Be sure and seal around that fitting also. I had to do this once to my Baja Beetle and it was better then new.

[EC-EXCURSION]

Im gona get it to jump...

Those mini spunges are a good idea. (no, I am not going to sell them...) :p

I would leave the rubber nubs off of the tracks. They are there for running on hard surfaces. They do help alot though on dirt and grass, more then you would think.
Didnt you just contradict yourself? I am probably going to leave them off, I will only be running the Nitro blizzard in the snow.

Its amazing how helpful you are blaneo.

And ChristianZx, Welcome!

[blaneo]

EC said "I got everything I needed, and am going to start the brake-in today. Now lets see, how do you go about doing that... I’m gona go look for some guides; it’s been a year since I have broke in an engine."

I would just hook a gallon of fuel directly to the carb, tie the trigger back on your TX and start it up. That'll break it! LOL PLEASE DON"T DO THAT

Even though I stayed at Holiday Inn Express last night don't always take what I say seriously folks.

The rubber nubs for the tracks will help with traction if you are going to run the Blizzard during the spring and summer. One grass and hard dirt the tracks will slip a bit, and on concrete it help keep from wearing the tracks out quicker. There have been some that have run these at their local track. I can't imagine finding two people who live close enough together to ever get together to race these against one another. I have three (two running) and I can't even find anyone who will grab the TX and drive the other one for me. Go figure that one!

Also I was at tower hobbies website today. They are out of stock on the tracks. In the past though they have ordered more parts for me when that has happened. But I don't know if they will anymore, as it looks like they don't want to bother with the Blizzard at all. Sorry all.

[blaneo]

ChristianZx:
I just took a look at that fuel tank. You should have no problem going to the LHS and getting a new threaded barb to replace that broken one. You'll probably just have to cut the leftover piece flush with the tank body, enlarge the hole if needed, apply some silicone sealer, and thread the new fitting into place. Yiola your fixed. (i think that's how it's spelled)

[EC-EXCURSION]

Grrr... I cant get the engine to start... Should I try heating the engine block with a hair dryer and then starting it, would that damage it any? Maybe it’s flooded... I noticed the pull starter cable is soaked in fuel, is that bad? My glow plug works, and so does the glow igniter... What to do, what to do...

Maybe there is condensation forming inside the engine? I am trying to start it in my cold garage, about 32 degrees F.

I got it to sort of start for 3 seconds. The first time that happened was the first time I pulled the pull start. And the second time it happened was when I brought the truck back inside. I think I am done for the day... I will try again tomorrow.

[blaneo]

They can be a bit stubburn at times. I will usually add a bit of fuel directly to the carb to get it going until it starts pulling the fuel through the line itself. Cracking the throttle a bit can help also. How far is the high needle turned out? I think mine is like 1-1/2 to 2 turns open from fully closed. Be carefull using heat on these engines. If it has a plastic carb body, you can easily melt it. Trust me I know firsthand. The pullstart usually does become soaked. I think that this where all the fuel comes from that ends below on the brake discs. You can check for flooding by removing the glow plug and turning it upside down and pulling on the pull start, if fuel drips out of the top of the engine it's flooded. These engines do have a tendency to hydra lock. To much fuel gets in the engine and gets between the piston and the head and blocks the piston from moving, another sign that it's flooded. If you got it to burp, that's a good sign. Keep trying. Once you get it to run, just let it go. Make small adjustments a little at a time. Don't be in a hurry to drive, get the engine running decent first. good luck

[EC-EXCURSION]

OMG, I was using a torch to heat the engine block and the whole engine started melting! No, not really, that was a joke...


I just came in from my garage. Yes, it was flooded. These engines get flooded to quickly... Anyway... Back to the story... I took the Nitro blizzard inside because its warmer and started to work on it in my basement. I loosened the glow plug and had all the fuel spurt out when I pulled on the starter. I also stood the truck upright so that all of the fuel in the exhaust could flow out. I was amazed how easily I could pull on the starter, and the engine started for 3 seconds again. I tried it again, 4 seconds. I tried it once more and I shut it off after 5 seconds because there was smoke building up in my basement. I took it outside and started it immediately. It ran for 8 seconds! And then it died... and was flooded... and was cold... So I came back inside.

Why did it die after 8 seconds? The needle is turned out exactly 2 turns. (There is only one needle, right? And then there is that screw that controls how much air gets sucked in?)

If only I had a fan in my basement... Hmm... My bathroom has a fan...

[blaneo]

I hope you live alone! Cause if you don't, you soon will be! There is one needle, right where the fuel line comes into the carb. This needle sets the fuel/air mix, and somewhat sets the high speed end. The other screw with the little spring sets the low end idle. If I remember right, turning it in will open the throttle barrel setting the low idle faster. This maybe why it quit after the 8 seconds. If it did flood, You may also have the needle opened too far. Try closing it 1/4 to 1/2 turn and see what happens. Did you try to blip the trigger on your TX when it started? Sometimes you need to do that to get the engine cleared and get the fuel flowing right. Remember to make your adjustments small. I'm going to run out to shop and check my settings for ya to be sure. see ya in a bit

[EC-EXCURSION]

I just started it again and it died after 8 seconds, again... There seems to be this little cycle of starting the engine for a few seconds and taking off the glow plug to let out the excess fuel... I will go empty out the engine and try again. I haven’t tried tapping the throttle to get it started; I will try that this time.

So when you say "I'm going to run out to shop" are you talking about a hobby shop you own or a work shop? Or something else...

Welp, I have developed a blister on my left thumb from putting on/taking off the glow igniter.

[blaneo]

The book says to start with 2 turns open from closed position. After break-in it should be about 1-3/4 turns open. The throttle stop screw (the one with the spring) should be adjusted so that the throttle barrel is open at 1mm. Do not use the throttle linkage rod to set the throttle barrel opening.

[blaneo]

I would leave the glowstarter on while getting it to run. Is it dying after you take it off?

My shop is here at home. It's just sooo cold out there.

[EC-EXCURSION]

Im tired of doing this... In the morning I will try again.

[blaneo]

Well I think I figured out our scanner. I have the instructions for the GS11 engine setup scanned, but I can't load it here as it is too big for the requirements. If you want it let me know and I'll try to email it to you. It said it was like 1.8 in size, does that sound about right for a single page? I don't know, I am still getting use to this computer setup. I am usually using my webtv, which with that, I am not able to do these things on.

[EC-EXCURSION]

I do have the instructions for the engine. But the instructions arent very good at explaining the break in proccess or starting the engine for the first time.

[blaneo]

Are yours an extra set of pages or are they the ones inside the manual?

[EC-EXCURSION]

I didn't know there were any inside the manual... I have two engine instructions, The first is a one page long sheet and the second is two pages long. I cant sleep. :(

[blaneo]

Mine came with a 24 page manual and then two other sheets. One titled "how to handle enigines in gp cars", and one titled "kyosho gs11r engine". Is that what you have.

I did manage to scan the engine sheet but it is 1.17mb in size. LOL, I think I did something wrong.

[EC-EXCURSION]

Yup, those are the two manuals I have.

[EC-EXCURSION]

I still cant get past the 8 second mark... What should I do? Which adjustments should I try?

[blaneo]

are you trying to work the throttle at all? Did you double checkthat the fuel lines are connected correctly?

[EC-EXCURSION]

I tried taping the throttle, it stopped the engine... And I am pretty sure the fuel lines are hooked up right. You are talking about the primer bulb aren’t you? I will go check...

But if the fuel lines are the right way around, what do I do then?

[blaneo]

drop kick it!

[blaneo]

Are you leaving the glowstarter on the engine? Or are you taking it off once it starts?

[EC-EXCURSION]

Both, it works with and without the glow starter on the engine.

[blaneo]

Does the glow plug look okay? this is really weird. i am wondering if there isn't a leak somewhere

[blaneo]

try to work the throttle by hand instead of with the TX. just ease it open a little bit at a time with your fingers. Bumping the trigger may be dropping the idle back down too quick. just see if you can slowly advance the rpms by hand. if that is the case then the throttle screw needs turned in a bit. and the fuel mix may be off some also.

[EC-EXCURSION]

The glow plug looks fine.

What % of nitro is in your fuel? Im using 10% traxxas fuel. Im just wondering...

[blaneo]

I now use 20%. In the past I have used 15% and 10%. I found that i ended up with less oil residue. How's it going with the engine? Are you on any IM's?

[EC-EXCURSION]

Breakthrough! Well almost... (or a bigger problem than before...)

Alright, this time I put the needle at 1.75 turns out instead of 2 turns out. (Would that mean I leaned it?). So when I started it up I left the glow starter on. I counted 16 seconds! Then I noticed gas was bubbling up threw the head between the glow plug. :eek: I was like "oh ****!" and unhooked the glow starter. (Now that’s some nice grammar...) Then it died right when the glow starter was off... :( I think I tightened the glow plug the right amount. I tightened it until you could see the vehicle move a little (like a millimeter or 2). I have my nitro blizzard on a towel (Thank you blaneo for that tip.) Do you think I should just tighten the glow plug a little more? I don’t want to strip the head or anything...

And back to the leak thing... I noticed I see nitro and some after run oil around the screws that hold the motor mount down to the chassis. :confused: If it was only gas I wouldn’t really worry but I know I didn’t spill any of my after run oil. So that means there is a hole from the inside of the engine, threw the motor mount, and out of the screw holes? ***? Maybe I should put some thread lock on the motor mount screws to seal it up?

[EC-EXCURSION]

IM? Instant messanger? I have AIM. My screenname for that is "ECEXCURSION".

[blaneo]

Holy Cow Man! How did we go from not even getting the engine started to all of these problems? I guess it is progress.

Yes turning it in is leaning it out. You are cutting back on the fuel getting to the carb. Don't forget I said mine is around 1-1/2 turns out. Stay where you are though for now. You need to just get it running for a bit.

There should be a copper or brass gasket between the glowplug and the head. This seals the glowplug to the head. If there isn't one, you lost it somewhere. It needs to be there, thats where the fuel is coming from up there. Sometimes they can even be there, yet be damaged. Do you have an extra glowplug? Don't try tighting it any more. If you mess up those threads you are screwed. You can feel when it is seated right.

You said after run oil. You aren't putting that in yet are you? That could be part of the problem. You are not to the point of even needing it. The after run oil is thicker and it is harder for the engine to ignite.I give you more on the oil later.

The other leak at the front of the engine is typical. It is probably coming out around the front bearing, some may even be coming from the recoil and you are not realizing it. Don't worry about it, all of my GS11 engines leak like that. Some more then others, So get used to it.

Yes you should have threadlocker on those screws. Any where a screw goes into metal you should use threadlocker. One thing on threadlocker, it takes 24 hours to fully cure. GIve it time to cure before you put it to any real tests.

Never heard of AIM. What is it exactly?

[EC-EXCURSION]

Alright, the engine is now doing a lot better.

After a lot of testing and stuff I noticed the pinion gear was engaging a little so I turned that screw on the carb a little, maybe 1/4th turn back. And now it engages a lot less. It still does a little, maybe another 1/4th back would be good. Anyway, I started it up and left the glow starter on. After 24 seconds, (that’s right, count em, 24 seconds!) I took the glow starter off and the engine died three seconds later.

Well, it’s a start... Now how do I get around the glow starter problem... Hmm... Maybe when I’m sleeping I will come up with something...

[EC-EXCURSION]

AIM is AOL instant messenger. I brought it up because I thought you were asking if I had an instant messenger account. It doesn’t matter really.

Maybe I left out the copper gasket that time. I don’t really remember... It doesn’t look damaged or anything. But anyway, it seems to be working fine now, no leaks.

The reason why I put after run oil in it was to lube the engine. I read a guide that said that you should put four drops of after run oil in the opening where the glow plug is. And then put 3 drops in the carb too. Then you can pull the cord for the first time, gently. That lubes it all up so you don’t damage it. Then you can proceed to putting fuel in it and starting the engine. It sounded like a good idea..

I don’t have any thread lock at the moment... Do you think it is a must right now? I am not running it on the ground now.

[blaneo]

I would be looking at that glowplug. If you don't have another, I would get atleast another one. Use an "O.S. A3" glowplug. If you can get yourself some extra glowplug gaskets. They are cheap, but they really are important, as you know.

The after run oil. You really only need to use it when you are not going to be running the engine again within 24 hours, or at least trying to run your engine (sorry, just had to say that). And don't just use a couple of drops. I contacted O.S. and they told me that you really need to use alot, pretty much to the point of filling the engine with it. You want to add it through the carb, and get it into the crankcase, and up into the cylinder. The recoil will help with this.Then when you want to run it, you need to pull the glowplug out and turn it upside down and drain it out just like when it floods. The biggest benefit to using after run oil is because we tend to take a very hot engine and then when we are done with it we stick it in a cold damp place. Hence condensation starts to form inside the engine, which leads to rust. So you can see why you need to use so much after run oil.

I really wouldn't worry about leaving the glowstarter hooked up to the glowplug. You ain't gonna burn the plug out. The rechargeable glowstarters only give you about three amps of power. I use my adjustable glowstarter for my airplane and I turn it up to five amps sometimes to get an engine to go. I also have even driven around the yard with my glowstarter hook to the glowplug. Sometimes the glowplugs just need the extra power, because the engine isn't running right. Don't be afraid of blowing that engine up. Heat and lack of lubricant is what kills em. You are no where near running it too lean, so don't worry about that.

Don't worry about the clutch bell moving as long as it isn't trying to engage the transmission. They tend to spin some just from the force of the engine running.

When this is over with the engine we get to set the transmission. And you thought the engine was fun. Are ya learning anything yet?

[blaneo]

No the thread lock is important right now, but you will wanna do it. Hardware store or auto parts store, cheaper then the LHS. Get the blue stuff, the red stuff never comes apart.

The "after run oil" is just that, for afterwards, not before. That was probably one of the problems with starting.

Yeah I was refering to instant messenger. I don't use it much, and not at all on the computer as yet, but I will see if I can fire it up.

[EC-EXCURSION]

You really have really driven your truck around your yard with the glow starter attached? I may not be a "nitro guru" but I don’t think that is how it supposed to work. I have never seen nor heard anyone try that before...

Sometime this week I will get some thread lock at the hardware store. And yes, the blue one. I have heard wonderful stories about people welding their engines down with the read threadlock.

And sometime on the weekend I will head over to my LHS and pickup a new glow plug and some spare gaskets.

You know what is really annoying? Every time I get the engine to start it becomes hydra locked or flooded the next time. So every time I get it to run for those few seconds I have to take the glow plug out, flip the truck over, and let the excess fuel drain out. That takes a lot of time... This engine doesn’t always do that, does it? Well, there is one good thing. It starts up on the first pull, after I have emptied the engine from the previous attempt. :)

And yes, I am learning, or relearning. At one point I knew most of this stuff (or at least what lean was...) But then I forgot it all when I sold my truck last year. But I couldn’t and still cant tune an engine worth a damn. Maybe it takes experience... IDK

And BTW, I got your message on AIM. I was away from my computer, that's why I didn’t answer, sorry.

[blaneo]

The reason you never hear of people driving with the glowstarter attached, is because they don't want to admit to it. I ain't saying that I rip across the yard at 40 mph. Just a little bit to put some load on the engine and get it cleared out.

I think the reason you are flooding or hydra-locking is because that needle was open too far. I remember going through that also. And no it isn't gonna go on forever. You might even want to try closing it a bit more and see what happens. It ain't gonna blow up just starting it. I wouldn't go below 1-1/4 turns out though, that is getting too lean. I bet you'll end up about 1-1/2 turns out during break-in. And somewhere between 1-1/2 annd 1-1/4 when your finished.

Oh man! Gotta go,work is calling me. talk with ya later.

[blaneo]

EC:
When you pick up the threadlock get a tube of Permatex Ultra Copper #101br. You're gonna want it to seal up the carb. Tuning an engine takes a lot of patience and a little knowledge. It ain't really that tough. I'll help ya with it.

[AdamB]

Mine came with a broken stock tank, do you guys know if there is an equivalent still available? The nipple part on the bottom has broken off. Thanks



here is the tank at tower
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000631292&I=LXSC56&P=K


stock #LXSC56

Adam

[EC-EXCURSION]

I thought I saw the tank at Tower... Good find Adam.

[blaneo]

AdamB:
you gonna keep and fix the old one for a spare?

EC:
Is it running?

[EC-EXCURSION]

So after thinking to myself for a while I have decided that it is best to keep a log record of all the changes I make to the engine. So that’s what I did today... It is quite boring to read so I don’t think I will post it (If need be I will). I will just say what my most successful settings are...

Note, at this point the engine was warm/hot, it didn’t burn me but it was still hot.



Needle Valve Throttle stop screw Glow starter Run time Other

2 turns out I guess its at 1mm, Yes 1 Minuet The tranny was spinning
but its kinda hard for the first 30 seconds
to tell... (note, the tranny was in neutral)
I stopped the engine by taking
out the glow starter.


So that's what I’m dealing with... The engine shutoff because I took the glow starter off. I would have left it on and finished the break in if I wasn’t in my basement.

[ChristianZx]

Awesome, thanks for the help with the tank guys. I'm working on a set of plans to build a 1/6 scale Pisten Bully, I'll post some pics when I get more done.

[EC-EXCURSION]

Really? I am planning on building a 1:10 or 1:8 scale Pisten Bully sometime. I am very interested in your project. You are the first english speaking person I know who wants to build a Pisten Bully RC.

If you havent seen these two sites they may provide some insite when building your Pisten bully.

Pistenraupe.de (http://pistenraupe.de/Modellbau.html)

snow-groomer.com (http://www.snow-groomer.com/rc_modelle/rc-modelle.html)

Do you know if the real pisten bully's have any suspension? I couldnt find any pictures that would tell me whether or not they had any...

[blaneo]

Here's another fuel tank with the primer button. Sorry I got you two mixed up on my last posting about the fuel tank.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU406&P=M

[EC-EXCURSION]

For those of you who want a manual for the Nitro blizzard I found one on my computer. I'm not sure where it came from but it's there... Chances are that I downloaded it from a link in this thread but I don't remember... But in case I didn’t I have stored it online I am hosting it.

It is in Adobe PDF form so you will need acrobat reader to view the manual.

You can download it from here (https://home.comcast.net/~ecexcursion/31851_nitro_blizzard_m.pdf).

[AdamB]

Hi guys,
I'm in the process of putting in a .12cv-x to replace my leaky gs-11 and doing some other things to bring it back to life. I had stated before that I cut brake shoes from a thin piece of rubber but that proved to be mistake once they got wet....I'm rying to figure out what the original material is?
kinda looks like gasket material? I would like to cut my own instead of having to buy the whole disc/shoe assembly from tower.
any ideas?
thanks
Adam

[blaneo]

AdamB:
I think you may be right about the gasket material. We have some at work that is a high temperature material that replaced asbestos. It has the same look and feel to it as the original stuff. I think it would be a good alternative, as it wouldn't get slick when it gets wet. Maybe some thin slices across the face of the material would help with gripping too. Let us know what you did and how it worked.

EC:
How is it going? Is it cold there? Ha Ha. Got any snow you wanna get rid of? It's butt freezing cold here, I know that. Sorry for not being around, I had a very busy weekend.

[EC-EXCURSION]

I've had a very busy weekend as well. Saturday night I went to a party and didn’t get to sleep. Around 5 PM Sunday morning I finally went to sleep and I woke up at 10:30 AM today. (I wrote this all out to give myself a better understanding as of what day it is.) So it's Monday... Interesting...

It's really cold outside (single digits) and yet there isn't any snow. That's a big waste of cold now isn't it. I haven't gotten around to finishing the break-in process and I’m still tired... I think I can finish/start it within the next few days.

In the mean time... I was hoping to order the things I need from tower hobbies. I was browsing at the blizzard spare parts (No, I haven't broken anything yet.) and see there is a new thing on the discontinued list. And I also saw that the bodies are in limited quantities. Do you think the bodies are going to become discontinued soon or just out of stock? Does tower order parts for the blizzards once they become out of stock. The only reason why I’m wondering is because I know I’m going to mess up on the body that came with the kit as it is the first RC body I have ever attempted to paint and cut myself. Perhaps I should buy a nice truck body for experimentation. Then I could paint that poorly and get the feel of this whole painting thing. Hey, if it turns out good I could try to mount it on the blizzard and cut a hole in the hood for the engine heat sink to stick out. haha But I really would like to buy some stuff from tower (have gift certificate).

I need/should have:


A glow plug <-- which one should I get?
Some spare glow plug gaskets <-- doesn't a gasket come with the glow plug?
Devcon Thread Locking Compound (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXC030&P=7)
Some Permatex Ultra Copper #101br ?
Kyosho Plastic Parts B Nitro Blizzard (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU871&P=7)
Kyosho Spring Nitro Blizzard (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV261&P=7)


The reason why I want to get those spare parts is because I think those are going to be the parts that are going to brake first, if any at all. It's always good to have spare parts. If you think I should add to or change my shopping list please say so! And blaneo, I had something else to say to you but I forgot it...

Ah, yes, I know what it was! I got the pictures you sent me. They look nice. I’m thinking after one day of thinking he threw his nitro blizzard away. No offence, it’s just that it looks very poorly constructed. He made a plow, which looks heavier than the rest of his Nitro blizzard. It’s a nice plow… Other than that the only alterations I can see are flipping the rear wheel linkages over and painting it yellow. Why did he paint it already? The paint job doesn’t look that great either, in fact I think it looks terrible. I’m sorry if it sounds harsh but it’s the truth.

Long post..

[blaneo]

EC:
Wow i'm surprisex that you all didn't get any snow up there. They got it to the west of us but as yet we have none. They are talking maybe tonight and the rest of the week. Let's hope so, I like snow for Christmas. I don't know if they are going to be ordering anymore parts for the Blizzards or not, I kinda doubt it. Compared to what they had a year ago, things are looking pretty slim. Engine parts still seem to be there, these engines were used in alot of different vehicles. Bodies show up on eBay from time to time, but I would be thinking about a second one if I were you. I have about five sitting out there in the shop, some are DX and some are the Nitro/EV versions. I have two painted for my Nitro. These bodies are weak around the rear vertical corner of the cab. They tend to crack very easily there. You can always strip the paint off the body with brake fluid and then give it a bath with cream style hand cleaner to remove the brake fluid, then another bath in warm soapy water to remove the hand cleaner, and a good final rinsing before painting again. Glow Plug should be an "O.S. A3". The glow plugs do come with gaskets, but as you have found, you will be removing it often. The gaskets seal the top of the cylinder and when they become seated once and you remove them, they don't seat the same way again. I ain't sayin' to change then everytime you pull the plug, but there will be a time when that thing is so deformed that it won't seal properly. The side plates are another thing to get. They will get bent. And over a period of time they will get very weak and/or break. The springs are good to get, they do break and/or fall out. You will never find it if falls in the grass. I have done a modifacation to mine to hold them in better. I'll have to write about it sometime. I would also take that oring that is used for the fan and the one for the throttle return to your local hardware store and see if they have any to match. Those will stretch and break. Do it now before they stretch so you know what the "true" new size is. You don't want a day of running ended because of an oring. Plastic parts "A" and "b" are both good choices. These parts do wear and can be broken. The threadlock you can get at the hardware store, save your gift certificate for things that you can only get at tower. Bearings could be added, they are nice, but i'm not sure if they do a whole good. An extra set of tracks would be a good choice too. They are going to wear out. One thing to remember, these things take a beating. Just cause they run on snow, don't be fooled. They take a pounding while they are bounching along the terrain. They turn on a dime, and they produce alot of torque when they do that. Things are bound to wear out, and probably quicker then you think they will. Just ask the others, if they have ran it more then once they'll tell ya the same thing. Like I told you, these are high maintenance vehicles. Be prepared to do alot of work on them. They ain't like a car that is run on nice sunny spring days. You are going to spend alot of time freezing your butt off just trying to get it dialed in right. Then guess what is going to happen, the snow will have melted and now that your Blizzard is ready to go, there won't be any snow to run it in. That's the life of a Blizzard Owner.

[blaneo]

EC:
As to the last paragraph of your posting.
Are you ready to take your Blizzard and chop it up and attempt to build something creative? How far will you go when you build your pisten? Will you ever even start to build your "scale" pisten? Talk is cheap! CJ-5 stepped up to the plate and did something more then talk! Don't be so quick to judge the work of others when you yourself haven't tried the same.

CJ-5 is one of the originators of this thread. If it wasn't for him, a couple of others, and myself you wouldn't have this thread to come to. You wouldn't be getting all the answers and help that you have gotten here. As a matter of fact if he were still here, he would probably be answering more of your questions then I have been. Don't take for granted what those before you have done so that you may enjoy what you do today.

[blaneo]

One of the photos in question. This is of CJ-5's bulldozer conversion.

[blaneo]

Second photo of CJ-5's

[blaneo]

Third photo of CJ-5's

[EC-EXCURSION]

blaneo:

As to your last four posts.

I understand the great accomplishment CJ-5 has made and the amount of time and effort which was put into his creation. I wasn’t trying to insult him, or offend you. I put a lot of time into a decision I make. (This is the part where I get tired of writing this post and start writing off the top of my head.)

(Censored) I still have my original post saved if need be...

I have decided it would be better to ask you when you received those pics. How far along in the build was he?

I will probably never get around to building my Pisten bully. However my plans will be definitely be completed and be "perfect" in every single way. Well... It looks like it's time for me to go back to earth... Yes, talk is very cheap.

I need some sleep. If need be I will add or regret saying some of the things I have said in this upper portion of my post. In the morning I will review what I said.

Man, I still have to reply to your useful post...

So... An O.S. A3 is what I need? Is there any specific reason why you picked that glow plug or no?

You should definitely write about that spring modification you made.

Now when you say the side plates will get bent are you talking about that part where the front wheel attaches to? You know, that picture you have on your website. The newer Nitro blizzards have a modification that prevents this. Some time I will post a picture of this.

Time for sleeeeeep.

[EC-EXCURSION]

blaneo:

As to your last four posts.

I understand the great accomplishment CJ-5 has made and the amount of time and effort which was put into his creation. I wasn’t trying to insult him, or offend you. I put a lot of time into a decision I make. (This is the part where I get tired of writing this post and start writing off the top of my head.)

(Censored) I still have my original post saved if need be...

I have decided it would be better to ask you when you received those pics. How far along in the build was he?

I will probably never get around to building my Pisten bully. However my plans will be definitely be completed and be "perfect" in every single way. Well... It looks like it's time for me to go back to earth... Yes, talk is very cheap.

I need some sleep. If need be I will add or regret saying some of the things I have said in this upper portion of my post. In the morning I will review what I said.

Alright, now that I am well rested I can make a better reply.

I understand the great accomplishment CJ-5 has made and the amount of time and effort which was put into his creation. I wasn’t trying to insult him, or offend you. I didn't put enough thinking into the decision I made last night. CJ-5 bought his nitro blizzard for $15, I bought mine for $400. I’m sure that played a role in my decision as mine is worth slightly more to me. At first I decided that his accomplishment really wasn't that great and he failed miserably trying to build a bulldozer model. Although he did have the courage to chop up his blizzard and try to make something creative out of it, he was only chopping up a $15 toy that was to provide entertainment for the winter. I’m sure it wasn’t very hard to start modifying his blizzard as it was broken already. His bulldozer was never meant to look exactly like a real bulldozer. I didn't realize that at the time. So... Here is where I stand. It would be harder for me or you to start chopping up our blizzards than it would be for him to. His model was a success, it resembles a bulldozer and provided entertainment in the winter. If you ever read this CJ-5 I hope you aren’t mad at me for assuming what you wanted.

I will probably never get around to building my Pisten bully. However my plans will be definitely be completed and be "perfect" in every single way. I do wish for it to be completed, but with my perfectionism it may just remain one of my various ideas. You know, I would probably be happy with more money. Remember how your parents always said money doesn’t make you happy, I think they were wrong. (Now I’m insulting your parents…) Yes, talk is very cheap, but ideas shouldn’t be. :rolleyes:

So… Back to normal posting, no defending each other and stuff… Only blizzard talk.

[EC-EXCURSION]

I'm sorry blaneo. :(

Well I placed an order at tower... And I have updated my shoping list.


O.S. A3 Glow Plug Hot - 3 pack (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=+LM1413+&FVPROFIL=++)
Devcon Thread Locking Compound (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXC030&P=7)
Kyosho Plastic Parts B Nitro Blizzard (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU871&P=7)
Kyosho Spring Nitro Blizzard (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV261&P=7)


Total comes to $23.94 - $10 gift certificate = 13.94. Not bad for 14 bucks. :)

And I found someone else who had the same problem with this engine.

NitroRC.com Discussion Forum (http://www.nitrorc.com/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=8806) - The problem was 3 faulty glow plugs? hmm... Good thing I bought three. By the way, I looked at my glow plug and noticed it is black on the bottom... So I think it's a good time for another.

[blaneo]

Wishing you all a Very Merry and Blessed Christmas.

[EC-EXCURSION]

Happy New year!

[moparcrazy]

Hi all I'm new here, just thought I would say hi real quick and tell you all I just got my first nitro blizzard on Christmas, diden't think I would ever get one seeing how everywhere I looked they were discontinued or just couldent be found, just happened to be at the right place at the right time I guess, seeing how I stoped at my local hobby shop for some parts and there it was,, Wow, so before I could say anything my girlfriend grabed it and layed it away for me, just got it broke in today and what a blast, the temp's been around 150-170 guess I could lean it a bit more as it is starting to get a little slugish now, this was the first kit I had gottin and in the kit form you can really learn alot about these in a hurry, only made one mistake in the buld and that was not setting the control rod to the tranny so it was in the netroul posithion, but not to bad for a first time, well anyways I guess this is just one more toy for the collection, now I can't weight till we get some snow to really see this thing operate, well that is if we get any this year,, well I better get going , hope to talk to ya all a little later..

[blaneo]

moparcrazy:
Welcome aboard, glad you have joined us snow wackos. You really found one in a hobby shop? Wow that is next to impossible! Lucky you. If you have been running your Blizzard on the ground, you are in for a really big treat when you get it on some snow or ice. You will not believe the difference. I'll shut up before I spoil the ending,LOL. Engine can go higher, seems like I am usually around the 180-200 mark. Depending on the air temperature. If you got all this way and only made that one little mistake, you can surely handle the engine tuning. Best of luck! Keep us informed.

[moparcrazy]

Woo-Hoo we got snow, imagine that, I would like to know where these wheather men get there schooling, we were only supose to get rain here today, well if this keeps up I will be able to get some run time in the snow, that would be nice since my 1/8 truck is in pieces and weighting for parts and the 1/8 buggy just isent that good in the snow, and I don't have skies for the plain and still a little learie to fly my heli, well thats a little on what I have and since our local track closed up and the closest track that is half diesent is over 100 miles from here, so now its just some back yard bashing and now with the blizzard I can have fun year round, it would be nice to run these things with others who have them but I don't think there are many here in Pa. Ok thats a little more about me and sorry about rambeling on, hope to talk again soon.

P.S sorry about the spelling,

J.

[moparcrazy]

Wow what a blast, got enough snow to play around, had about 2 in. at 8:00 tonight so I thought would give it a try, it is a big diference in the snow, and on that note I have a question and I'm sure this was probably already asked, is there anything to help with keeping the snow from packing on the drive & boggy wheels ( not sure if that is spelled right ) but was haveing a blast and notest it was binding and makeing a weard noise, so I took it in the house and realized there was a good deal of snow packed in there and asumed that was the problem seeing how now it is all cleaned off and dry and every thing turns real free, so is there something I could put on them or spray on them to keep the snow from packing up so much,,.

thanks so much.

J.

[blaneo]

Use spray windshield deicer, like Prestone makes. I have put vaseline on my chain, it seems to help. Might be my imagination though.

[mustangjoe]

Pssst, hey, look over here!!
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQgotopageZ1QQsassZmustangjoeanddenise64QQsorec ordsperpageZ25QQsosortpropertyZ1

Just in case anybody is looking for one. Just figured id let you know. If doing this is against the rules just let me know and i wont do it again.

[CJ-5]

Well I tell ya EC Excursion your really TICKIN ME OFF....lol Nahhh I'm just kidding. Oh the famed Bullydozer project. At that point when I started sending pictures to blane, I was about as far as stage 1 in the project in a project with 5000 stages...lol As of there I had the plow frame and blade done, that is all. The undercarriage is what I am working on right now. I have a new girlfriend, a new job and no time, so I might work on the NB about an hour or two a month.

Yep I hacked that beast apart. When I buy something like that I figure you might as well use er while you got er. Whats the point of buying a vehicle such as this fi your not going to make it personal to you? If I was going to leave it stock and lookin all pretty I would have just left the truck at my friends house and not even bought it. If the truck were a Bruiser or a Marui Big Bear or my original Wild Willy then things may be a little different.

I work in heavy equipment, right now I run a Kobelco Sk300 hydraulic excavator and spent the last couple months running the actual model I am building. The model will be scale when I am done, I am redoing the entire undercarriage assembly of the blizzard to resemble the ream machine, the idlers will all be made smaller such as on the real machine. I wanted to get the blade and everything on first so I have some dimensions and ideas on how to build the new chassis and the new undercarriage when the time comes. I sometimes tend to make things like they do on American Chopper, put it all together once, then complain when it comes time to make it right....lol

Well Blaneo, I havent read all the posts, so i will just come out and ask since I am lazy, how's your rig runnin?

[EC-EXCURSION]

Interesting.

Thanks for not being pissed CJ-5. So now is your blizzard going to be a bulldozer or an excavator? (It wasn’t exactly clear in your post.)

[CJ-5]

It's a Bulldozer, I have no desire to build an Excavator yet, that would require at least 8 channels, and the machining to make all the cylinders would be intense to say the least. I would need my own personal lathe and small mill to make everything, that is later to come, but I have thought about it.

[blaneo]

CJ-5:
It's good to hear from you again, it's been quite a while. A new Lady, and a new Job! Wow!, what happened to ya? Age catch up with ya?

My rigs are fine and well, except for the ones in my pants. I caught some damn viral infection and haven't been able to move in over a week. The "boys" are almost back to 100%, a few more days and we'll back to normal. I haven't spent much time running the Blizzards so far, maybe two hours so far. Seems like everytime we get snow, it is soo much that I am whopped by the time I get home from plowing at work. You still plowing? Then the flood hit us. We were lucky, the river only came as close as a hundred or so feet from the house. It needed to rise another two or three feet to make that stretch, and the weather cooperated and didn't dump any more rain or snow on us until the light dusting we got this morning. Some idiot down the street was using his leaf blower to clean his walks and drive. I thought "whats the point?"

Hope everyone is well, and having a blast this winter. Take advantage of it, before you know it, the Blizzards we be retired for another season. Talk with ya later.

[CJ-5]

Age? Not really I am still only 19...lol The new lady is something that just seemed to happen. I got a new job back in march in construction and I was doing the driveway at her house, her and her husband just got divorced and I took an interest, she asked me over for dinner before she knew how old I was, she is 31, thought I was the same age. So anyways we started goin out. As for that job I got laid off 2 days before xmas, so I quit and started my new job Jan 3rd. I am still running heavy equipment, but now I have been sucked into the highest level of the snowplowing experience.
Now i run a road grader and do most of the country roads near my house so when it snows I am usually out all night.

As for your "boys" I hope they get back to normal, something you just dont wanna leave home without. The leaf blower? that sounds like ummm, well its a start. At home here I have my grandfathers big John Deere 992 excxvator, I couldnt get my tractors to start on the day of that big snowstorm before xmas, and the deere still had the ditching bucket, so I used it to clear most of the driveway. Guy from the paper thought it was quite the site to see a excavator with a 7ft bucket and 65ft of reach cleaning a driveway so he snapped a pic. I have just been tired as I couldnt believe, plowin snow, tryin to fix this excavator (turbocharger) and takin care of loose ends around the farm. I am now livin by myself, mother moved to the other house on the farm so I live in the newer house and pay rent.

[AdamB]

I'm about finished with the overhaul. I pulled the old siezed up gs out and mounted the cv-x in. It worked out pretty clean and I fit another servo in to get a 3rd channel for the shifting. I can't wait to break it in. I used to live in Detroit Michigan and I would use it in the winter/snow there but I live in San Francisco now and there is never snow. So It will have to be in the dirt. There is another guy around here who has one so we'll probably have some hill climb competitions. Here are some photos.....
Thanks Blane and EC for you suggestions
Adam

[AdamB]

aaaa

[AdamB]

bbbb

[AdamB]

cccc

[AdamB]

dddd

[moparcrazy]

Hi all, have a couple question and maybe someone can help, now I don't now much about Kyosho and this blizzard is my first, now is there a larger clutch bell that can be put on the stock GS-11X just a tooth or maybe 2 teeth just for a little more speed, this moter seems to work real good and I don't want to swap it out for another kind right yet.
Now my second question is, I had come across a website some time ago and now I can't remember the site, now it had a body for the nitro blizzard that was a replica of the tracked buggy now I think it was the show Lost in space, has anyone seen this kind of body anywhere that would be still avalible.

Thanks, J..

[AdamB]

I think any kyosho 2-speed clutch bell from there qrc series of vehicles will work, but I think you need to change the smaller of the 2 spur gears on the 2-speed assembly? I think? sounds like a hassle. Maybe try a tuned pipe. The engine will breath better and have more low end.

Does anyone have replacement tracks for sale? Mine are about to die.
thanks
Adam

[moparcrazy]

AdamB

There is a new set of tracks on Ebay just seen them today, there is also a used nitro blizzard, and thanks I think I will try a different pipe.

[CJ-5]

Wow thats a clean lookin Blizzard, I am almost ashamed to say how torn apart my blizzard is, I have been lookin for a manual to help me out since i work from memory. I have also been looking for some serious brakes for this monster, anyone have an idea on what I could use for new brake rotors on the truck? I am workin on some new pads but I need some new rotors, mine are glazed over like Paris Hilton at happy hour.

[AdamB]

Hi cj-5

I've messed with these brakes for awhile off and on. I like the high torque servo and metal servo horn the best. The brakes just get wet with fuel/water and nothing helps except force, I think. I bought automotive gasket material from a auto parts store and replaced the stock pads with it (pain in the ass to cut the shape out)...it seems to be simaliar, but I haven't tested it completely. I also sanded the **** out of the rotors with 100 grit to scuf them up....it's something I do on my mt. bike rotors that always works.
goods luck
Adam

[blaneo]

AdamB:
Nice work there bud! A really nice clean job! Congrats!

[blaneo]

AdamB:
What color yellow is that? I like it!

[AdamB]

I believe it was called camel yellow and it's a tamiya color.
Thanks
a

[blaneo]

What actually happens to engine performance if the muffler is removed? Does anyone know for sure? Has anyone ever ran an engine without the muffler?

[moparcrazy]

Hi blaneo,
I woulden't recommend running any nitro engine without a muffler, I race 1/8 buggy & 1/8 monstertruck and would have attendsey to loose a muffler in the middle of a race, well by the time my pit guy would get to it and temp it the temp would be well over 300 and that's between 1/2 lap & lap to meet up with my pit guy, all I know is running with out a muffler you have no back presher and leeds to hi temps and roining an engine.

P.S. sorry about the spelling

J..

[yuckydog]

Anyone know if the Duratrax TORQ .12 engine will work without a hassle in the Nitro Blizzards?

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/d/dtxg0200.jpg

It's nice and cheap... :)

[AdamB]

if you get this mount thing and then do a little filling on the chassis plate were the recoliler fits in it it will work.


Special Stock#
LXU171

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXU171&P=7

[gigacrush]

first off id like to say Hi. and thank you Blano i havce been watching your post sience this forum has been started .i have a nitro blizzard that is fullt moded .for starters i run a thunder tiger 12 evo 3 in my bliz i used a set of motor mount from a Tamiya Terra crusher and bevceled the edge for brake clearance. I also had to drill new holes in the plate.for exhaust im running a traxxas header and a MIP stinger that exits out the back of the body
I have actully found a nother body that works with a little trimming. It is made by yokohoma and is the euro truck.It kinda resembles a racing rig tractor. i have also changed the track to the ligher catterpiller tracks that kyosho also makes.i belive they are the same part # with B after it
I also reinforced the side plates with the alluminum brace that is under the motor plate in the front. i had to order another set for the front but oh well and i added brake disks from Hardcore racing. Any brake disk you buy that will fit the kyosho mp 7.5 inferno will fit the blizzard and take care of the sloppy brake set up that comes stock.along the line i added the 3 channel remote and made for and rev completly locked in spot till the servo switcked then bought the brake set for the dodge ram truck that kyosho makes and installed it.
Alll the hopups and the blizzard is fast ill try to get pics up by the end of the week .but all in all the most important thing i did was reinforce the sid plated and replace the motor to a high reving beast.was well worth the effort and time. well thanks again everyone on this forum for the help and know i finally have a computer :D

[Umbakrail]

Hi to everyone here. I'm new on this forum and I need your opinion.

I want to buy a blizzard from a store in Hong Kong. They have both nitro and electric version of the Blizzard but I can't deceide wich one will be the best for me. I already own both nitro and electric vehicule.

I would like to know if the nitro version break more than the EP because it will be difficult to find parts in Canada.
What kind of running time can I expect from the EP.
For those who own both, wich one do you prefer, what are pros and cons :confused:

Thanks

[gigacrush]

hey you can get parts from towerhobbies they carry soime stuff but if your bying it from hong cong get extras to save on shipping charges i have a nitro blizzard and bolth blizzards are kinda slow maybe 12 mph in stock form or 20 kmh as for breakage i use mine regularly and havre yet to break anything besides spurs and springs heres some pics there area also more pics under more pics
http://www.******.net/img/51481

[ILuvMyB4]

whats the fastest anyone has ever gotten a Nitro Blizzard? i was jsut looking at the pics and they look like they arent very fast but they look like they would be a blast to run.

[CJ-5]

Umbakrail: Where do you live in Canada? I am also in Canada more specifically in Ontario. I know of a couple hobby shops not to far from where I live that seem to be able to track down Kyosho parts for vehicles pretty quickly. I haven't run my blizzard much since I started this project almost 2 years ago. last time I ran it her top speed was only about 3 or 4 mph since I went to a slower engine and I have changed my gearing a little bit. The only real parts I could see having problems with are the brakes, I am looking into the new Brake rotors described in a previous post and I am looking into making the brake shoes work a little better for the steering.

[gigacrush]

hey cj i should also thanks you to if it wasnt for you and blano i wouldnt know anything about my blizz check out the picks i posted and were in canade are you im in niagara falls. i would try the different disks they seem to work but it took for ever to get them set right and ever once in a wile they still slip but not like the stock ones did

[CJ-5]

I am down in a little town called Dresden. If you don't know where that is (which you don't), im sandwiched between Sarnia and London. Its about a 25 minute run to the U.S. border for me so I do most of my shopping there for my R/C stuff.

At the moment the Chassis for my Blizz is sitting unassembled, the tranny is in a drawer, the engine is apart, and everything is all a mess. I have to get her put back together so I can start making the body up for it. I have to buy a set of sheet metal dolly's some bumping hammers and a good band saw to start makin the pieces then a butt load of brazing rod.

[gigacrush]

sound like you need to get to work. but im guessing that time hasnt allowed along with the tool shortage . this summer im going to make a new frame and add a couple extra bogie wheels and extend the tracks for better climbing traction and to handls steeper grades.

[CJ-5]

sound like you need to get to work. but im guessing that time hasnt allowed along with the tool shortage . this summer im going to make a new frame and add a couple extra bogie wheels and extend the tracks for better climbing traction and to handls steeper grades.


Well I finally got fed up with the weak Kyosho Chassis on my Blizzard. I found myself some 1/16" steel plate (road sign) and I have most of my blueprint drawm up for the blizzard and I am gonna have at er sometime this week. I figured I am supposed to be starting on the body soon, but I would have to pretty well butcher the stock chassis to make it look right, and I would have a real fun time trying to mount all that fresh sheetmetal to the plastic sides and they have always bugged me. So I am going to make steel sides and get rid of some of the features that I just plain never liked. First to go is all those Bogey wheels, im gonna build er to scale this time and use a traditional crawler chassis. I am going to make a compeltely new drive sprocket with different gearing, heavier drive chain probably from a bicycle. And most of all, I am finally gonna make it ready to mount up a Big Block engine, most notably a O.S. 40 airplane engine. I figured I need something with more torque.

Sparks are gonna start flyin here real soon. About the only original parts of the Nitro Blizzard are going to be the Differential, Transmission and steering, but I'm still working on a better way to design it, so it doesn't have so much fade.

[EC-EXCURSION]

Wow, that sounds like a lot of work! Are you going to use the regular stock tracks?

[CJ-5]

Thats the only part I am debating right now. I plan to use them for now, but I think in the fiture I will get tired of that shiny black finish and go ahead and build a set of 4" wide steel tracks that look more the part of the real dozer.

Anyone have any out there idea's on how to increase brake performance? I am starting on the new chassis tonight and I am looking at how I can re-work the brakes. I don't like the disc brake setup, so I am thinking about ways to get rid of it all together. I have been tinkering around and thought about just pulling on the axle shaft itself to give it enough drag to keep it from spinning. Or making a clamp or some sort to clamp the axle shaft.

[gigacrush]

good luck if you do come up with some thing let me know . im not having any probs with my breaks but something different is always good. as for the tracks you were talking about there was a guy who made metal tracks for his blizzard . when i have some extra time ill post a link. but he wasnt to happy with the stock motor driving them but a os 40 would be graet all tghe torx ytoull ever need. well keep us informed on whats going on with the project and get up some pics (if possible)
as for the chains check in to the madforce chain and sprockets you might be able to use them. and the tranny might cause you a prob its built a little cheap.althought i have had a os15 and the thunder tiger 3 evo in my blizz for a long time now and havnt had any probs.once i get a used beat to bdeath madforce to tear apart . ill start the 3 speed install but till then its just sitting collecting dust

[AttackDonut]

Hi gang-

Found the Blizzard for sale whilst looking for something else, and decided to do some research before dropping the dough.

A few questions, if I may:

I assume these things are discontinued? If so, does anyone make anything similar to it?

Are the tracks metal or something else?

Generally, how fast are they? Given it's a tracked vehicle, can the torque of the electric engine be improved upon?

[EC-EXCURSION]

Hi gang-

Found the Blizzard for sale whilst looking for something else, and decided to do some research before dropping the dough.

A few questions, if I may:

I assume these things are discontinued? If so, does anyone make anything similar to it?

Are the tracks metal or something else?

Generally, how fast are they? Given it's a tracked vehicle, can the torque of the electric engine be improved upon?

Yes, they are discontinued. And I know of lots of people who made something similar. However, those are all custom built. Kyosho is the only company I know of (I've done lots of research) that mass produced RC snowcats.

The tracks are plastic. However, one could feasably make metal tracks if they wanted. I may try that when these tracks get wear out.

I understand they are pretty slow... (I have yet to run my nitro blizzard due to starting problems and I want to break it in durring cold weather) You could buy a new motor if you wanted it faster/more torque (I think).

[AttackDonut]

EC-Excursion-

Thanks for the info. Obviously I wasn't expecting a vehicle to hang with he nitro touring cars, I was more curious if (stock) top end was a walking pace, or running pace.

Kind of sad no one else makes something close to a snowcat, I had buying used Nitro stuff off eBay...

[EC-EXCURSION]

Kind of sad no one else makes something close to a snowcat, I had buying used Nitro stuff off eBay...
Yes, it is sad... Or you could buy a new one for $400 from china like I did... But thats a nitro blizzard. If only we had machineshops in our basements... Then we could build whatever we wanted, for cheap. :rolleyes:

[gigacrush]

Hi gang-

Found the Blizzard for sale whilst looking for something else, and decided to do some research before dropping the dough.

A few questions, if I may:

I assume these things are discontinued? If so, does anyone make anything similar to it?

Are the tracks metal or something else?

Generally, how fast are they? Given it's a tracked vehicle, can the torque of the electric engine be improved upon?

ok i have a nitro blizzard with a ttr evo 12 in it i would say at top speed with the gearing changed you might get 15 mph. but 15 in the snow is fast. i totaly regeared the motor after i drove it and it was the same as stock besides for torq. as for them being disscountiued kyoshoamerica has them on there web site. and over seas they are still being produced so hopefully they will be selling them in the us now that kyosho has opened a plant or store.
the tracks are pretty tought if you have the newer version . the older version tended to strech and the screws also were easily tworn out. the newer ones hold up better.
as for the parts hopfully kyosho will be selling them again. when greatplanes imported kyoshos stuff the things that didnt sell good . were stopped being imported.
and if you drop a brushless set up in there it will be much better. i myself am waiting to see if they are being sold again. so i can get a electric versio and drop a brushless set up in it .

[reptile]

Hi i called Kyosho america and asked about both blizzard versions they said they carry both and they will have all the parts and also told me they are selling the parts directly off there site soon.

I got 2 blizzards from them through my local hobby shop a EV and a Nitro.


ok i have a nitro blizzard with a ttr evo 12 in it i would say at top speed with the gearing changed you might get 15 mph. but 15 in the snow is fast. i totaly regeared the motor after i drove it and it was the same as stock besides for torq. as for them being disscountiued kyoshoamerica has them on there web site. and over seas they are still being produced so hopefully they will be selling them in the us now that kyosho has opened a plant or store.
the tracks are pretty tought if you have the newer version . the older version tended to strech and the screws also were easily tworn out. the newer ones hold up better.
as for the parts hopfully kyosho will be selling them again. when greatplanes imported kyoshos stuff the things that didnt sell good . were stopped being imported.
and if you drop a brushless set up in there it will be much better. i myself am waiting to see if they are being sold again. so i can get a electric versio and drop a brushless set up in it .

[gigacrush]

great thanks for the info. i knew all along that it was greatplanes the stop selling them.

[EC-EXCURSION]

That is great news. :)

Just out of curiosity, how much did they cost?

[reptile]

:) I have a buddy who owns a shop got the EV for $175.00 and the nitro for $225.00

[reptile]

:D http://www.arxreptiles.com/Graphics/blizzards.jpg

[AttackDonut]

Reptile-

Can your buddy still get them for that (more or less?)

[reptile]

Sorry only for me ..What you looking for EV or nitro?


Reptile-

Can your buddy still get them for that (more or less?)

[gigacrush]

i my self am looking for a ev version. i like the green color

[AttackDonut]

Ditto, the electric version for me.

[reptile]

$245.00 plus shipping. EV version


Ditto, the electric version for me.

[AttackDonut]

Reptile-

Cool, where do I send dough to?

[reptile]

Hi first i want to see if any other people want one because it takes me like a hour to get to my buddies shop.and this will be a special order deal..
where are you located?

Reptile-

Cool, where do I send dough to?

[8 Baller]

ultimate hobbies has the ev in stock ,I'm waiting for the gas version

www.ultimatehobbies.com

[EC-EXCURSION]

wow... I feel cheated, considering I bought my NB for $400... Reptile, can you get spair parts for these vehicles?

[gigacrush]

i agree excursion i also paid top dollar but i also get or got most of my stuff from hobbies.net japan. all prices are about hafl what the us chages but shipping can kill you.and i also had a lhs that could still get stuff for me. il check and see if they can still order thing. if so they ship to your door

[gigacrush]

hers a pic posted dirrect

[blaneo]

What's up people? Been gone a while, sorry about that. Has anyone made any changes to their vehicles that they spoke of earlier in the year?

[CJ-5]

Hey Hey everyone, well I am back in the saddle and workin on the blizzard. I don't know why but I got fired up about her and I really started to look at the design and finally just decided that I don't like at all how the blizzard is setup for what I need it to do, so I scrapped it. So I am working on the new Steel chassis for this monster dozer, I figured the stock diff is too weak and small so its gone, as well as the braking system, tracks, suspension, engine, all that will remain is the tranny, and it might be takin a hike as well. So Here's the new plan, and it has some questions I figured I am gonna tap into the minds of my tracked friends.

New chassis and drivetrain, does that help?... ha ha Ok the heart of the beast will now be a .40 airplane engine I picked up. I bought a sacrificial T-Maxx for drivetrain parts, I figured its a decent differential to replace the blizzards so I made a cradle for it this weekend to drop it into the new steel boxed chassis. And I figured I want more gear reduction from the blizzards tranny, so I am going to try and build a planetary gearbox on the drive sprocket on each side, the new drive sprocket also happens to be the small sprocket on the back of my mothers old 10spd bike, it is the perfect size for what I need, the new tracks will be Steel pads with welded on grousers, and the chain will be a bike chain. I have been thinkin a lot, and I have a lot of the original problems of the blizzard chassis worked out with my new one, but the chassis I built has its own problems so I am gonna call it a prototype and I am gonna have to build another one, this one doesnt have any place to mount the walking beam for the front of the new track frame.

But my biggest problem is the brakes, I got none, with the T-Maxx half shafts I can't use the original braking system, and I have no idea what I am gonna do right now. I thought about putting a brake disc on the half shaft but how d you affix a steel disc to a plastic half shaft, any ideas on some brakes?

[SS Pede]

I wonder if there will be a plow available for the new blizzards? I might consider getting the EV someday, and I'd love a plow for it!

[gigacrush]

hey cj 5 do you think youll have any probs keeping the 40 cool or do you plan to run a fan.i have a couple plane motors and was also thinking about a 4 stroke .40 or .52 plane engine. but i see my biggest prob will be the cluch set up. as for the frame of my blizz i just reinforced it all over. right now im running a ttr evo 3 .12 in the blizz and wish i could do some gears changes . but with the lhs moving out of town i have a long drive to order part just to gain a couple mph.if you have any suggestion on the cluch set help me out. thanks and the snow is comming

[CJ-5]

Yeah the snow is coming, I do snow removal so work won't get done for awhile. I have been working on design aspects of my new and improved blizzard, and it has changed once again, I am now ditching the stock trans and rear end....lol gotta go not big enough. As for cooling, yeah I am running a fan, what I am thinking is 2 fans that will suck the air in the front of the dozer and blow back on the engine. I was looking at a T-Maxx the other day with a water cooling system so who knows, if the room is there and I have the time and or money why not?

[EC-EXCURSION]

Whats happinen' people? We got some snow yesturday so I dug out the blizzard again, trying to start it again. Last year I didnt get it to run... Yesturday was unsuccessful aswell. :( I'm not gonna get give up though! Hate nitro... lol

I wonder if there will be a plow available for the new blizzards? I might consider getting the EV someday, and I'd love a plow for it!
Good question. A plow would be usefull for my blizzard aswell. I suppose it wouldnt be that hard to make one. I dont think they will make a plow though, considering the blizzard is discontinued.

Glad to see your still all here. :cool:

[CJ-5]

How badly do you want a plow? I have a decent little shop at my disposal and lots of steel, give me some specs and we can git r done, I will post a pic of my blade and I have some plow arms you can use, their dirt simple to make and hooken em up is just as easy.

OK Edit: My website won't let me add any more pictures, so if your interested in my blade e-mail me at alexios85@hotmail.com I can e-mail you 2 pics I just took. The blade dimensions of my big aluminum blade are 4.2" tall, and 17.9" wide, but makin it to come custom dimensions is a piece of cake.

[SS Pede]

Well Kyosho just revamped/re-released the blizzards... I was hoping there would be a plow for the electric version. They don't seem to list one as an option part on this site though: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/products/30981B-EPBlizzard.asp#

Anyhow, I don't know when/if I'll be getting a Blizzard...so I'm just dreaming right now. I'll dig up this thread and email you if I ever have a blizzard and decide I can't make a plow myself. :)

[CJ-5]

SS Pede I am guessing you have a stampede from your username (yeah yeah I know Here's Your Sign...lol) anyways what do you have for a pede Nitro Electric? I am also the proud owner of another sad project a .21 Powered Nitro Pede, she's an awesome truck.

I didn't know Kyosho had finally un-junked their website, I looked at your link and noticed the Instruction Manual, I have been waiting for one for along time now..... I now have one, I'm clearing the forest now with the printer I thank you for that. Remind me of that if you ever need a blade we can work something out.

[SS Pede]

I have an electric Pede that I got a few years ago. It's powered by a Novak SS5800 brushless system (hence the "SS" in my username). At the moment it's my only hobby-grade surface vehicle (except for my sailboat). Lately I've been scheming about attaching a cheap servo to my RPM front bumper and using my radio's 3rd channel to raise/lower a plow. The blizzard is just so much like a Snow Cat that it's a perfect plow candidate! It would push the snow around better than a 2wd Pede, but at the moment I only have a Pede so that's my platform for now.

Since we're on the subject, would you mind sending the pics of your plow setup to jacobfinch@juno.com? If I bought one now I'd only have the Pede to put it on, so I don't know if it would work. But I'm intrigued. If I could get it to work on the Pede and still have it compatible with a Blizzard in the future, that would be pretty neat. I must warn you though, it's quite possible that I won't buy a plow from you and I'll just take your ideas!

[CJ-5]

Pics are on the way, Don't worry about it, I don't want to sound cocky or anything but I think its a 100% guarantee you can't copy my blizzard blade, it was actually sand cast from aluminum 3 years ago in school. Any blades that I would be making now would be significantly different from the original. The original blade was made for scale and true appearance over functionality for the blizzard. But the pics are coming.

I also had an E-Pede at one point, I did a 4x4 conversion to her though, using an E-Maxx main chassis plate, 2 550 motors, EVX, OFNA M/P tires, and some awesome suspension mods including 4ws, it was the mother of trucks. I tend to modify trucks, beat the wee out of them, then sell them to someone who might appreciate it more than I do.

[gigacrush]

hey ss pede i have had a plow mounted on my blizzard. there just wasnt enought weight to push the snow.the blizz i have is totally modded and pretty fast. i made my plow from scrap sheet metal and mounted it using some tamiya shock mounts from the lunch box.how are the rest of you guys doing. have you had snow.ive had the blizzard out quit a bit already.i am also trying a new set up to stop the side plates from bending. and so far so good . but well have to see if it lasts the whole year. well talk to you guys later im taking the blizzard out to play

[gigacrush]

hey ss pede i have had a plow mounted on my blizzard. there just wasnt enought weight to push the snow.the blizz i have is totally modded and pretty fast. i made my plow from scrap sheet metal and mounted it using some tamiya shock mounts from the lunch box.how are the rest of you guys doing. have you had snow.ive had the blizzard out quit a bit already.i am also trying a new set up to stop the side plates from bending. and so far so good . but well have to see if it lasts the whole year. well talk to you guys later im taking the blizzard out to play

[gigacrush]

hey ss pede i have had a plow mounted on my blizzard. there just wasnt enought weight to push the snow.the blizz i have is totally modded and pretty fast. i made my plow from scrap sheet metal and mounted it using some tamiya shock mounts from the lunch box.how are the rest of you guys doing. have you had snow.ive had the blizzard out quit a bit already.i am also trying a new set up to stop the side plates from bending. and so far so good . but well have to see if it lasts the whole year. well talk to you guys later im taking the blizzard out to play

[gigacrush]

hey ss pede i have had a plow mounted on my blizzard. there just wasnt enought weight to push the snow.the blizz i have is totally modded and pretty fast. i made my plow from scrap sheet metal and mounted it using some tamiya shock mounts from the lunch box.how are the rest of you guys doing. have you had snow.ive had the blizzard out quit a bit already.i am also trying a new set up to stop the side plates from bending. and so far so good . but well have to see if it lasts the whole year. well talk to you guys later im taking the blizzard out to play

[performula]

Top speed - roughly?

These cannot be jumped, correct?

[performula]

Can the Nitro Blizzard accept a Novarossi .12? Are there any other bodies that will fit over the Blizzard without looking goofy? What are typical wear items? Pretty durable?

[gigacrush]

Can the Nitro Blizzard accept a Novarossi .12? Are there any other bodies that will fit over the Blizzard without looking goofy? What are typical wear items? Pretty durable?
check out rc pics.net and do a blizzard search . there is a guy running a nova 12 with a heli pipe hooked up to it. youll also find pics of my blizzard there
first off sorry about the 4 posts .as for top speed not sure maybe 16mph but a big differance than the stock. as for the motor you can really make anything fit if you try hard enought.i my self was running a os 15 cvx. and after i ran the life out of that motor i upgraded to a ttr 12 evo 3. and the smaller motor made a lot more of a differance. i belive i have pics posted on the page before this.
But as for jumping it all depends on how the sus is set up and what motor you run.this year i finally got the motor broken in and have been jumping a couple little drifts. but its by no means a monster truck and at best you might get a foot tops on a jump.but if your sus is not correct youll be bending the front of the plates to death.and possible breaking other items. as for mounting the motor i used cheap HPI motor mounts from the rs4 3. i also had to drill some new holes for the mounts.
Also i am still running the stock gearing.does anyone now of a different company that sells cluch bells for a 2 speed in the same tooth size

[performula]

Thanks, those videos were awesome.

[performula]

I'd like to see a video of the Nitro version, do you know of any link?

[gigacrush]

I'd like to see a video of the Nitro version, do you know of any link?
there is a web site that is german that i belive is called modilesmo or somthing they have a vid of the nitro version. i just did a search under google for a kyosho blizzard. and look for the results that say translate this page. i would hook you up with a link but i dont know how.if you go blizzard get the nitro. i have over 8 gallons total on my frame. and who knows what it had when i got it. and i have yet to break any parts besides the spur gears. but youll have to also do some adjusting and strengthing to the plates on the side and the rear wheels need a little help that adjust the tracks

[slbks5]

i have yet to break any parts besides the spur gears. but youll have to also do some adjusting and strengthing to the plates on the side and the rear wheels need a little help that adjust the tracks

What aftermarket spur gears work with the blizzard ev? Also what is needed to help the rear wheels?

Thanks

[EC-EXCURSION]

if you go blizzard get the nitro. i have over 8 gallons total on my frame. and who knows what it had when i got it. and i have yet to break any parts besides the spur gears. but youll have to also do some adjusting and strengthing to the plates on the side and the rear wheels need a little help that adjust the tracks
I dunno.. I'm regretting getting the Nitro version. Cant get my engine running. :(

On another note, the EP Blizzard looks awesome. Hopefully Towerhobbies will stock some parts.

[performula]

Tower does not carry Kyosho any longer. Contact www.kyoshoamerica.com or www.ultimatehobbies.com .

[EC-EXCURSION]

I see, thanks for the heads up performula.

[EC-EXCURSION]

Right now I'm thinking about modding my nitro blizzard into an electric. I'm fed up with nitro... I hate it. It's complicated and breakin is anoying. Just want it to start at the push of a button. Also, around here the average winter temperature is 0 - 10 degrees F. I think the extreme cold might be troublesome for the engine.

*glances down at engine*

*notices a ring of fuel leaking out of the front motor mount*

Or the engine is compleate crap. The motor mount and engine block are a single piece, and yes, fuel is leaking out of it. It isnt just collecting there. sigh...

Alright, so yeah... I don't really like nitro any more. I was thinking about converting my blizzard into an electric version. I have basicly two options with that.

I can either A, buy replacement parts from the electric blizzard drivetrain. I have yet to find anywhere online that sells such parts, except what performula suggested. I would then need the part numbers for the parts... another thing I have yet to find online.

And option B, I can buy an E-maxx 2 speed Transmission and try to fit it in the blizzard. While this would require some (or a lot of..) custom work, the E-maxx Transmission should be much easier to find. Although, the only place I found to buy one was on ebay.

Right now I'm not leaning tward any one option over the other. I think theyre both equally good/bad.

What do you guys think?

[CJ-5]

For my engine problems for my testing work on the blizzard I tossed the stock Kyosho engine, I thought it was garbage when I first laid eyes on it. I dropped in one of my old Traxxas Pro 15's, het you gotta admit that EZ Start had its moments, and it wasn't too hard to wrangle in there with some universal ofna engine mounts. Throttle linkage was easy, and the beast was a decent little engine, it will take a lot of crap most won't.

Why not just go to something like a dirt simple O.S. engine? Something incredibly reliable, decent on fuel and makes some nice horsepower. I have found running the engines in the cold is not a problem, I just make sure the engine is nice and warm when I take it outside and make sure the carb is really really really rich.

As for my project, I have got a whole lot of nothin done in the last few days, we got another big dump of snow and we have been out plowin like crazy. And I am still struggling with my new design for the tracks, I know what I need but I am trying to figure out how I would tie in a Bike Sprocket off a T-Maxx differential with some gear reduction.

[gigacrush]

Yea we got lost of snow also CJ. lets hope it keeps comming. hey excursion. ive had many kyosho gs motors and they all leak new or not. just like you said it comes from the flywheel. even my new motors thast are gs26r leak. as for upgrading the engine its worth it . i my self had a os 15. but they dont like higher rpm,s and i snapped the connecting rod.
Im looking for a different cluch bell to change the gearing. it seems that my blizzard is over heating.i think alot has to do with the motor upgrade.any suggestions. ive already re sealed the motor. tried a new pipe set up. added a extra shim to the head ( came with the motor) . running higher nitro content.
also excursion check the kyosho web site they have bolth manuals for bolth blizz and that will help you get what you need for the swap.i belive its about 5 parts to swap over and youll need to flip the steering servo over and re do the steering.

you guys that need parts can order dirrect from kyosho just call them

[EC-EXCURSION]

But this is a little different than you discribe gigacrush, what you said I would have expected. However, the leaking in my case is not coming from the flywheel. It's coming from the motormount next to the flywheel. I know this because I cleaned my blizzard a day or two ago after putting it away. Then when I looked today I noticed a little "puddle" forming next to the motormount near the flywheel. There isnt any residue leading from the flywheel tward the motormount, as if the nitro was dripping there, nor did it drip from anywhere else. The only possible explination is that the nitro fuel is infact coming out of the motormount. If this is what you discribed, im sorry, I'm tired and a little off... (its been an 18 hour day for me)

I suppose what I just wrote doesnt even matter, we've already determined that the stock engine is crap. I had something else I wanted to ask, but I'm "zoneing out" as I type this and need to get some sleep. I will reply tomarow.

[outcastrc]

If you want to convert to electric, you couldn't ask for a simpler drivetrain to do it. Theres not many parts to convert to an EV using stock parts. And you could easily use any tranny, be it Emaxx, Stampede, or the like. Any 2wd car tranny could also be modded to fit. All are very popular options for guys custom building.

Another option that may work is ask around for a guy wanting to convert from electric to nitro. A direct swap of the different parts makes life easy. (I did this to convert a Madforce to TwinForce)

[gigacrush]

yea i have a couple extra blocks if your block is cracked. just let me know. and i was actully talking about the flywheel leaking. i would just do a new nitro motor but make sure its OS or somthing realiable. all you really need a is a aset of hpi cheap mounts.
But then again i my self am going to buy the electric version for in the house and around the homestead. mainly because were i live there is a noise ordinance. and nitro cars and trucks are a bit to loud.( i can prove it with the ticket i got).
but iether way let me know what you did. i will also be posting pics soon of the sus mods ive done.i got ride of the stupid springs and add on road shocks from a nitro rs4 and so far so good. its also supper smooth.
And from my post above the motor im running is a thunder tiger 12 evolution 3

[EC-EXCURSION]

Now that i'm well rested... Ive realized I was working on a 21 hour day, not 18. But thats not the point. And since were off topic, I would also like to say I feel bad for not knowing what topic to post this in. Two of my options deal more with the blizzard EV than the Nitro blizzard. Back on topic...

Guess I have 3 options..

Option 1: Replace nitro engine

What engine do you suggest? What is needed to do swap the engine out (motor mounts, ect.)

And insted of posting the other questions here, i'm off to the electric blizzard topic...

[performula]

A basic Novarossi .12. :)

[gigacrush]

Now that i'm well rested... Ive realized I was working on a 21 hour day, not 18. But thats not the point. And since were off topic, I would also like to say I feel bad for not knowing what topic to post this in. Two of my options deal more with the blizzard EV than the Nitro blizzard. Back on topic...

Guess I have 3 options..

Option 1: Replace nitro engine

What engine do you suggest? What is needed to do swap the engine out (motor mounts, ect.)

And insted of posting the other questions here, i'm off to the electric blizzard topic...


Well all i really needed was a set of cheap motor mounts. a shim set for the flywheel .the stock on works fine if you shim it a tad. and last but not least a drill to drill new holes other than that your good to go.
As for the motor i like OS or novarossi is good.but for realiability go OS i also suggest a 12 over a 15.the 12 will handle the stock gears better. and ivre tried to find a new cluchbell so i can replace the stock gears.but i have had no luck yet.well good luck

[gigacrush]

heres a pic of the shock set up im working on . so far so good

[GRUNDIG415]

where can i get the ev blizzard?i am having a hard time trying to find one...

[gigacrush]

i would call kyosho direct and ask them or check the bigger US shop that have a large invatory. but i also heard HPR or some thing along that line is kyoshos new distributer.oh yea there is 2 electrics on e bay right now.

[CJ-5]

Ok update time on my Nitro Blizzard. So far the only part being carried over from the original truck is...the trans for now. I have ditched every part of the "unit" I could. I got my steel chassis all welded up this week, solved the problem of how to solidly mount the new 3" drivesprocket to the chassis. One of the guys I race with also does custom decals and he wanted an e-maxx for a demo vehicle for bodies so I ended up giving him my almost completely rtr emaxx for free, but when I was robbing her diffs I got to looking and thinking. What about the steering hubs of a Maxx truck. So I kept one and decided to bolt one to the outside of the new side rail.

So basically the steering hub is mounted on it side to the chassis, with the new axle shaft running through, although it looks like I am going to have to connect the axle with the diff witht he joints no half shaft needed. THen the sprocket was the problem, bike sprockets have a huge hole for the bikes hub so I took it to my boss who knows a fair bit about heavy equipment. We are building more snow plows for our 200hp plow tractors and he was using the hole saw on some sheet metal, one of the slugs from the hole saw was almost the perfect size so i am cutting 3 more for the sprockets one on the inside and one on the outside of each one.

So Basically all I have to do now is drill a hole in the sprocket for the driveshaft to slide through, and I am going to buy some aluminum hex hubs for the maxx have em tig welded to the sprocket and boom solid sprocket mount for my blizzard. My girlfriend has my digicam so I can't take any pics but I should have it back soon, it's quite the setup, and it finally isolates the drive section (I will choose to follow proper bulldozer lingo and call em my Final Drives) from the undercarriage and push frame for the blade.

[adsmart101]

heres a pic of the shock set up im working on . so far so good

Can you get some close up shock pics so I look into modding my NB with shocks? Was the distance between the boogie wheel mount and the chassis frame a problem?

[gigacrush]

no prob. ill get em posted for you. send me you e mail adress. oceanviewniag@aol.com. also have you upgraded and braced your front side plates to stop the bending..also i had to drill new holes in the chassie. so you could use any shock you would like.

[LaBam]

I have a question. Could I mount an OS .12 CV-X converted to diesel in this thing or maybe a .26 4-stroke?

[gigacrush]

you could mount about anything you wanted just dont count on more speed . its geared totaly low end power only.and if you were going to go bigger. i used a tamiya terra crusher motor mounts and ground them down by the brake. i had a 15 cv r in it. but so far the best motor was a thunder tiger evo 3 12. it spun super fast. and had great torq

[gigacrush]

and close up off sus upgrades

[GRIFFON]

No posts in two months!! Is everybody waiting for the snow to fly ?
GRIFFON

[Mouton]

I just bought a used NB about a month ago. It was on the first day of a road trip.

It looked to be in a pretty good condition. It came with a GS-15R and a broken muffler.

When we got home it was taken apart and cleaned. Is actually surprised me that no parts needed replacement apart from the broken muffler. The engine did not seem to have any compression to speak of but once cleaned and rebuilt it started on the second pull. The HSN-needle was on the loose side but I put a bit of fuel tubing over it. The engine runs perfectly.

I only have but one thing yet to adjust. The linkages are set up according to the manual. It kicks in reverse alright but sometimes it makes the not so great sound of gear thrashing while running forwards. The QRC-unit is protected and there is no gravel or such that would make for the grinding noise.

Any ideas on what might make the noise? The drive chain perhaps?

Apart from adjusting it I will leave it for the winter. For now the other RC-vehicles will do just fine. (An FG Monster Truck, Tamiya Nitro MT among others)

[GRIFFON]

Hi Mouton,
Welcome aboard. I'm sure you will find this thread quite helpful. Quite a few guys here with plenty of experience with the blizzard. I'm in the process of building my first one. More into helis and pulling tractors. Blizzards are just for plain fun.

GRIFFON

[Mouton]

I fixed the gear box. There are steel pins strenghtening the gears that the transmission hooks onto. The plastic surrounding the metal pins was worn so the pin was set to deep in the gear. Remove the pin, add a few drops of super glue and all set! I did the same to the reverse gear.

It now runs forward and backwards without hesitation and there is no kicking out of gear anymore. Really a fun thing to drive.

Now I only have to build a snow plow and a groomer while waiting the the snow to fall...

GRIFFON, have you completed your's yet?

[GRIFFON]

Hi Mouton
Got the thing built and running, all except for the plastic. Its kind of taking a back seat to the helicopters. I've got to take advantage of the gorgeous weather. When the snow flys I'll probably get interested again.
GRIFFON

[Mouton]

Well, Sweden's covered in snow now so I guess this weekend will the first time I will have the opportunity to try it out in its true element!

[jinxt]

Hi All
Got a new NB about 3 months ago, finished building it last month and have been messing around in the garden. Don't think there's going to be much chance of snow just outside London (UK) but at least I don't have to mow the lawn to use it. Is there a simple mod to improve the rear suspention? have tried changing o-rings for springs but can't find a small but strong enough spring. I've also tried Mini-T shocks which may work if I can find small enough ball joints so I can get the correct angle, still that's half the fun!

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b64/Jinxt666/DSC00797.jpg

[outcastrc]

http://www.outcastrc.com/craig/blizzard/2006-04-11,003.jpg

I used the springs from the Steering brakes for mine. I had them free when I converted to OFNA linkages. More info at:

http://making-trax.org/index.php?showtopic=225

[jinxt]

Ok i've done something similar but with the spare damper springs from a mini-z.
Maybe it's as strong as it needs to be and I was just expecting more. I really need to get out and give it a good run.